RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build Thread
Thanks for putting in the effort of posting this build. Now that I'm retired I plan to do a winter build each year. Last winter I built a Sig 1/5 scale Cub (always wanted a yellow fabric Cub) and it helped bring back some of my long forgotten building skills. For this year's winter build I was torn between the FunAero S.E.5a and the Balsa USA Thomas-Morse Scout. Your build thread has sold me on the Scout. Safe flying!
Posted on: 9/13/2012 6:55 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227839

RE: When to adjust valves
I have two Magnum .91 4-stroke engines (purchased first one here as "slightly used" and loved it so much that I just bought another one from Tower for a Sig Hog Bipe) so information like this is very helpful . . . and seeing how we already have a thread started dealing with Magnum engines I'll take the liberty of adding my question. The older Magnum (not "Blue Head") has a one piece muffler, while the new Magnum (a "Blue Head") came with a muffler that seems a bit thinner (lighter gauge metal, or so it seems) and the muffler exhaust end can be spun by hand inside the housing. Is this how they make them now, or did mine miss it's turn in the weld station? Thanks, it's amazing how much information is available in the forums.
Posted on: 8/12/2012 7:05 AM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11190261

RE: Max Fuel Tank Size?
Thanks for the input guys. I guess in this age of the ARF, sometimes it's hard (if not impossible) to control the fuel tank size/shape. I have a couple of Hanger 9 ARF planes. A Toledo Special, fuel tank on that one is only 11 oz. and I have a Saito 62 on it, so I'm safe there. The other one, a Pulse 60 XT comes with a "shaped" 17 oz. fuel tank that fits like a glove into a "egg shaped" space under the front hatch. There's nothing available from any of the fuel tank folks that will fit that space. Possibly, all I should do is open the tank up and shorten the fuel intake line. Or maby better yet, do nothing. There's a lot of these Pulse 60 XTs out there and I may be the only one in search of an issue to solve. It's the engineer in me. Just can't leave well enough alone.
Posted on: 8/8/2012 2:08 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185941

Max Fuel Tank Size?
Ordered a Magnum .91 4-stroke this afternoon and was reading the manual that's available on line. In the section on fuel tank selection they make the following statement: The size of the fuel tank used should be 12oz. - 14oz., depending on the model and the length of flights desired. Use of a 14oz. tank will provide between 10 - 15 minutes of run time at full throttle. Use of a fuel tank any larger than 14oz. can lead to excessive leaning of the engine during flight and is not recommended. Trying to think this through, the only thing I can come up with is that the engine may not be able to draw fuel correctly from a nearly empty fuel tank whose volume is larger than 14 oz. Am I on the right track? I tend to fly very conservative, usually land after about 9 to 10 minutes, and normally with at least 1/4 tank of fuel left. Would the 14 oz. limit still hold true in this case?
Posted on: 8/7/2012 8:56 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185080

RE: God, I Really Can't Tell!
Thanks guys, the information/suggestions have been very helpful. Based on the weight of the previous owners installed OS .91 4-stroke, the weight of my Thunder Tiger .91 4-stroke and the fact that I fly off a (sometimes mowed) grass field, I'm going to stay with the Thunder Tiger .91. Thanks to all.
Posted on: 8/1/2012 6:23 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11177808

RE: God, I Really Can't Tell!
My gear looks exactly like the one in the picture above. What I did this morning was to take out my tape rule, back the tail wheel up against a stop and measure directly from the stop to the center line of the landing gear wheel shaft. Exactly 36 inches. Turned the gear around and took the same measurement. Right at 36 1/4 inches. I'll leave it in the 36 1/4 position and give it a try. One other question (looking for opinions here I guess). The previous owner had an OS .91 4-stroke on this plane. I was planning on using a Thunder Tiger .91 4-stroke that I already have, but, I have an opportunity to purchase a used Magnum .80 4-stroke for this plane which I'm considering because my style of flying tends to be slow and easy (read "scale") flying. I'm sure being retired has something to do with it, but I prefer to just lazily cruise the sky. Don't have any experience with Magnum engines, all Thunder Tiger and Saitos so far. Any thoughts on the Magnum for this plane would be appreciated.
Posted on: 8/1/2012 12:13 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11177411

RE: God, I Really Can't Tell!
Thanks guys. I'll take some pictures tomorrow morning with the gear mounted both ways. I'll put a tape measure on the work bench for reference. I've been flying trail draggers for years so I'm familar with them. On a H9 Pulse 60 I got earlier this year I ended up turning the gear backwards to get it to stop flipping over on takeoff (come to find out in these forums that it was a common issue with that plane).
Posted on: 7/31/2012 7:56 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11176689

God, I Really Can't Tell!
Purchased a used Sig Hog Bipe and am proceeding to mount my servos, receiver, engine (Thunder Tiger .91 4-stroke) and have run into an issue. I took everything off that would come off in an effort to clean the plane up a bit. That included the landing gear (looks like the stock Sig gear) which had been painted blue, but was peeling, so it needed to come off. Found a web site (last post was many yeasr ago) that dealt with nothinbg but Sig Hog Bipes and one of the statements made was "if your having issues with the plane tipping over on take-off, make sure the landing gear is facing forward, not mounted backward." Of course, when I took the landing gear off to get the peeling paint off I DID NOT mark which way is forward. I have now had the landing gear off and on (both ways) a number of times, and for the life of me, I can not see a difference. Being a "third owner" I do not have access to a plan sheet against which to compare. Can the difference be so slight that it really is that hard to see?
Posted on: 7/31/2012 3:08 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11176341

RE: LETS SAVE SIG BEFORE THEY GET SWALLOWED BY THE BIG TWO!!!
I have returned to the hobby since retiring a couple of years back, Started back in the mid 1970's building Goldberg kits for my son so we had something to do together on weekends as he grew up. Didn't start flying myself until he went off to UConn. Went the ARF route for years as it was hard to find time to build (work, bills, work, bills, work, bills, etc., etc., we've all been there). This last winter I decided to build a Sig 1/5 scale Cub. Talk about memories rushing back. Took me most of the winter to build/cover it and I can tell you that there were many missed meals and all-nighters. Loved the Sig kit, had them on the phone a number of times to walk me through things I either didin't understand or over the years had forgotten how to do Great folks in every way! This winter I hope to build a Hog Bipe to replace an Aeromaster Special I put in by flying it too soon after getting back into the hobby. I truly hope Sig makes it. They are the standard by which I judge other kit builders. Safe flying to all.
Posted on: 7/22/2012 1:07 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11164659

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Boy, this is always the place to come for answers. Thanks guys. I reamed out an APC prop to 8 mm and it slid onto the 72 nice and snug.
Posted on: 5/11/2012 6:10 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11077480

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Quick question to those of you that have a lot more experience with Saito then myself. I have two Saito engines, both less then a year old. An FA-62 and an FA-72. In the manual, both engines are listed as having a 7 mm prop shaft. If I use my Fox metric prop reamer and ream out an APC prop to 7 mm, the prop will fit perfectly on the 62, but will not slide onto the 72, even if I try to force it on with the prop nut. To get a prop to slide onto the 72 I need to ream it out to 5/16". Any one else run into this? Is there a misprint in the Saito manual?
Posted on: 5/11/2012 5:24 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11077427

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
Cub Man, thanks for the response. I've attached a photo of the Cub. It now has the replacements 4" wheels rather than the 3 1/4" I started with. Also, the tail wheel is at least a full 1/2" lower than the original that came with the kit. I decided against trying to run one wing tube for both wings completly through the fuselage. Presented more problems than it solved. If I can just get the Cub to not nose over on landing (never happened on take off) the wing mounting will no longer be an issue. Of course, once I started posting pictures (forgive me, I know this is a "Cub" thread) I got carried away, sorry.
Posted on: 5/7/2012 2:28 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11071987

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
Help, having an issue with my Sig 1/5 scale Cub, the flying part. Well, actually not the flying, the landing part. I have a Saito 72 mounted and have gone to a 13/6 prop rather than the 14/6 I started out with. The 14/6 had way too much torque for the Cub. Even though I tend to build "heavy" and the all-up weight of the plane is about 8 1/2 pounds, the 14/6 was still too much. Here's the issue. On the first flight, even though the landing was pretty smooth, just before the Cub came to a complete stop, the tail lifted off the ground and flipped forward over the wing. With the way that Sig has the wings attached to the fuselage what ended up happening is that the screws holding the wings in place ended up ripping the sides of the fuselage away from the plane. I fixed it up, added some triangle reinforcements. Very next flight, same exact thing, same damage. Here's what I'm in the process of doing to try to repair the damage as well as fixing the "flip on landing" issue. I've gone to a smaller/lower tailwheel assembly than the one supplied by Sig. Seemed to me that the tail was too high off the ground. I'm installing 4" wheels, rather than the 3 1/4" wheels that I started off with. And lastly, I'm going to figure out a way to have the wing tube/dowel run completly through the fuselage, rather than the setup that Sig has in the build. I'm thinking that with the wing tube/dowel this way there would be much more support for the wing in the event that the plane does still have a tendency to flip over on landing. Also, I had a Carl Goldberg Anniversary that I built back in the 1980's and flew for many, many years, never with this issue. Suggestions, thoughts?
Posted on: 5/5/2012 10:32 AM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11069428

RE: *New Hanger 9 Pulse XT 60*
I'm flying my Pulse 60 with a Magnum 91, 4-cycle. Takes off beautifully at 2/3 throttle, then I throttle back to 1/2 throttle and just cruise (I guess I'm what they call an "intermediate" pilot) slowly around the perimeter of the field. You're going to love it. Great plane!
Posted on: 5/3/2012 7:58 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11067667

RE: *New Hanger 9 Pulse XT 60*
Swagg, if the large round washer that goes up against the prop fits your engine's shaft "as is" you can disregard the silver insert. If your engine shaft is smaller than the hole in the large round washer and it fits but can be moved from side to side, push the insert into the washer and then mount the pair up against the prop. As for cutting out the cowl, we've all ruined a few, but you get better at it with time. What I do is get some thin cardboard (like the back of a pad of paper), tape it to the plane fuselage and take an educated guess on where to start with the large opening for the engine body (this is just a starting point). Leave this in place and then mount the engine. Expand the cutout in the cardboard to better fit around the engine body, also expand the cutout to include the high speed needle, access to the fuel line, etc. At this point the cutouts in the cardboard will be pretty ragged, but like I said, it's just a starting point. Leave the cardboard in place, remove the engine and slide the cowl in place. Transfer the cutout to the cowl with a marker and cut the opening out with a Dremel cutoff wheel. Once that's done, you can start "rounding out" and expanding the cutout with a Dremel sanding drum and it'll really start looking professional pretty quickly Good luck.
Posted on: 5/3/2012 6:02 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11067482

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Looking for help with a Saito FA-62a. Ordered a right angle adapter from RC Specialties (this is not a hit on them, Jim of RC Specialties could not have been nicer and tried to resolve the issue, has even issued a refund). Although it was the correct adapter, it would not fit the Saito. The adapter would screw into the engine a couple of turns and then begin to bind. Tried it in the muffler, same thing. Sent the adapter back to RC Specialties and Jim confirmed the issue. Looking for a solution, I took the engine to my local Ace Hardware, to one of those boards where you can check thread sizes. Confirmed that both the engine and the short Saito supplied extension pipe were both M10x1.0. RC Specialties claims that the adapter sent me was also a M10x1.0 thread, yet it won't screw into either my engine or muffler. This engine is going into a Sig 1/5 Cub and I need to come up with a way to get the engine enclosed in the cowl. Anyone out there run into this issue? Either I have a very strange Saito FA-62a, or RC Specialties has an issue with their adapters (they have a loyal following here on RCU, and I have no reason to doubt their products). If I can't resolve the RC Specialties adapter issue, I still need to come up with an alternate solution.
Posted on: 3/10/2012 5:13 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10994675

Strut Painting Question
Possibly, this should have gone in the "Beginners" forum, but having been in this hobby since the mid 1970's, I felt really stupid posting my question there. I'm building my first kit since retiring, a Sig 1/5 scale Cub (built kits a long, long time ago, but career got in the way so I went ARF just to be able to fly). Anyway, when I did build kits, all I did was cover the finished project. With the Sig Cub, there are wood struts that need to be painted. I'm looking at making them the same yellow that I plan for the plane itself (Solartex Cub Yellow). What is the process (sealing, priming, etc.) of the painting process? Thanks.
Posted on: 2/14/2012 5:16 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10959198

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
Bob (N1EDM), that looks great. Just the information I needed. Thanks!
Posted on: 1/1/2012 7:08 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10886937

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
Happy New Year to all my fellow Cub lovers and some advice please. I am building my second Cub, a Sig 1/5 scale Anniversary Cub (first one was a Goldberg Anniversary Cub, built more years ago than I care to remember). The Sig will have my first ever 4-cycle, a Saito FA-62. On my 2-cycle engines I've used Tru-Turn (great folks) spinners. A spinner on the Cub just wouldn't seem right, but I've envisioned some sort of prop hub or prop nut on the Saito (needs to go on after the standard prop nut, correct?) and it just seems to look a bit out of place, no? How do you deal with the need for a prop nut, a jam nut (or substitute) and still make it look like a Cub?
Posted on: 1/1/2012 3:20 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10886525

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Boy do I feel like a "Johnny come lately." 849 pages here and I just finally get my FIRST (been flying r/c since the mid 1970's) Saito. Just picked up an FA-62 which I plan on installing in a Sig 1/5 Cub which will be a winter build (the things you find time for once retired). To date everything I've flown has been 2-stroke. Mostly old Italian Super Tigre and Evolution, one OS and a few Thunder Tigers, which I'm really fond of. I've got the Saito mounted to a home made test/break-in stand I've used for years and if the weather holds out tomorrow I hope to put a couple of tank fulls through the engine. Then they suggest that I adjust the lifter gap (that's what it's called, right?). Problem is that the little packet in box that had the little tools in it contained everything but the feeler gauge. Any suggestions? I've still got feeler gauges from back when we use to adjust our own spark plug and distributor gaps (if you're under 40 you wouldn't understand). Would those work just as well? Anyway, thanks to all for all the great Saito information. Now I need to get back to reading. Still have 654 more pages to go!
Posted on: 12/30/2011 10:46 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10884014

RE: *New Hanger 9 Pulse XT 60*
I'd like to know if others have run into this issue. I purchased a "lightly used" Magnum 91 4-stroke here at RCU (great engine/great transaction by the way) to put into my Pulse 60. Also spent $60+ at Tru-Turn (great folks) for a spinner (anyone know where this is heading?). Well, it turns out that the Magnum seems to have a pretty short shaft, and by the time you put the Tru-Turn spinner back plate on the shaft, an APC 14x6 prop, the original Magnum prop washer and nut, there's no shaft left for the jam nut adapter that holds the spinner cone in place. Tru-Turn seems to have a solution, which they are shipping me, but it involves modifying the APC prop in some way. Wondering if I should just do away with the spinner and fly without it.
Posted on: 12/14/2011 3:01 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10859617

RE: *New Hanger 9 Pulse XT 60*
What a GREAT hobby! I've read all 34 pages on the Pulse XT 60 and I must say I picked up at least one good suggestion per page. Just picked up my Pulse a couple of weeks ago but sadly, flying season is pretty much over here on the East Coast so I won't get to put her in the air for a few months. Some of the posts that caught my attention were the ones regarding the hatch cover flying off. While there were a number of simple solutions I was not completely convinced they addressed the problem. Seemed to me that the hatch flying off was not the problem but a result of the fuel tank sliding back. Stop the fuel tank from sliding back and the hatch issue goes away. The way the fuel tank positions makes the solution fairly simple. Slide a thin strip of ply (I actually used a Popsicle stick) between the two formers that are just a hair behind the back end of the fuel tank, a drop of CA at both ends, and presto, no tank movement. I actually used a couple of small screws at each end so that I could remove the tank if needed. Maybe an over-engineered solution, but it worked for me and I thought maybe others would like it as well. Again, thanks to all who posted here. I'm always learning, which for me, is part of the hobby. Henry
Posted on: 12/7/2011 6:33 AM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10847708

4-Stroke Mounting Question
After almost 35 years in the hobby (off and on due to working, now retired!) I will be installing my first 4-stroke. I just purchased a Hanger 9 Pluse 60 XT and planned on installing a great used Magnum 91 4-stroke I purchased here on RCU. But I have a concern. I ran the Magnum out at our club field on a home made test stand just to get familar with it. I guess I was not ready for the vibration difference between it and all the 2-cycle engines I've had over the years. The Magnum was smooth when at idle (and boy, that idle was great) and smooth at the top end (about 9000 RPM with a 14/6 Voss prop) but there was a couple of spots in the low midrange that I was really surprised by how much it vibrated. Is this how 4-cycles are, should I purchase a special 4-cycle mount (like the Du-Bro) or am I just worried about something that is normal. The guys at the field thought it ran great, just looking for reassurance I guess. Thanks
Posted on: 11/29/2011 10:13 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10835746

RE: Super Tigre (made in Italy) Parts
OK, I purchased the piston ring (as well as other parts, screw take a real beating being remover after 25 years) needed and the replacement was rather easy. But I do have an additional question. The parts lists that I have for my old Italian built engines shows a rubber gasket at the backplate of the engine. This gasket is also shown on the SuperTigre web site for both the G61 ring and G61 ABC versions as part number 22243637. When I ordered my parts from Tower I received this gasket as well. Problem is that when I took the S61 apart, it did not have this gasket, but instead, it had (although now well deteriorated) a thin paper gasket. Should I replace the paper gasket with the rubber gasket, are the paper gaskets still available, or is this item needed at all? Thanks, Henry
Posted on: 11/13/2011 6:25 AM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "SuperTigre Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10809592

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
Love to be part of this group. Nothing flies like a Cub! Built my fist one (CG Anniversary Cub) many, many years ago while still in Connecticut. Covered it with OD fabric with military spotter plane markings. Moved to North Carolina only to find out that the Cub was now the same color as their pine trees and lost the model while landing. Always wanted to build a second one and now that I'm officially retired I just ordered the Sig Anniversary 1/5 scale kit and am looking forward to an enjoyable winter build (about the only thing I still enjoy about winter!). Hopefully I'm not out of line asking a "build" question here. Over the years I've developed a bad allergy to the instant CA glues and was thinking of using nothing but epoxy and Titebond glues for the build. I know it'll take longer (I'm retired, remember) but just wondering if the rest of the folks here and any advice along the lines of glue choice. Will the Titebond hold as well as the CA glues?
Posted on: 10/30/2011 7:45 AM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10789153

Servo Selection Help Please
I'm looking at getting the Hanger 9 P-51 Mustang 40 Sport ARF reviewed here in RCU. For servos, the reviewer used the suggested JR DS-821 servos. Digital and high torque. Are these necessary? Here's why I ask. I've been building and flying since the mid 1970s and have always pretty much used the servos that came with the radios. I currently fly a few larger planes and have never seen the need to use the higher torque servos. I fly an old Areomaster Special that's about 20 years old (remember when we actually built these things?) with a Super Tigre 60 and all Airtronice 94102 servos. I also fly a Goldberg Tiger 60 with a Super Tigre 75 and also all Airtronics 94102 servos. My last really "larger" (and newest) plane is a Hanger 9 Toledo Special with an Evolution 46 and Hitec HS-322HD servos in the body and HS-425BB servos on the ailerons. I can add that all of my flight pack batteries are 700 to 800 mAh pack by Hangtime (NoBS Batteries) Hobbies (do higher torque servos require larger flight batteries?). So here's the question. Have I just been very lucky so far with these lower torque servos on my larger planes (I have yet to have a servo fail in all the years I've been building/flying) or are they fine to use so long as you're not either flying 3D and/or large gas powered planes? I guess that it would also help to add that being a "seasoned citizen" I tend to fly my planes at a slower pace, as I've got all day to do it and no particular place to be at any specific time. My initial thought for servos for the P-51 Mustang was to go with the HS-425BB if lower torque is sufficient, or the HS-485HB if the recommendation is for higher torque units. Any other suggestion from those of you with servo knowledge/experience would be welcome.
Posted on: 10/21/2011 3:16 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10776544

Anyone Flying the Thunder Tiger F-75S 4-Stroke?
I'm looking at the Hanger 9, P-51 Mustang Sport 40 ARF as my next plane. The review here on RCU had the EVO 60 mounted in it, but I really think this plane cries out for a four stroke. I'm looking at the Thunder Tiger F-75S for a couple of reasons. One is price. The Thunder Tiger is in my price range versus the O.S. or Saito versions. And second, looking at the manuals for all three manufacturers, it looks like the Thunder Tiger will fit better (as in smaller) in the P-51's cowl. I have a Thunder Tiger 2 stroke Pro 46 and am thrilled with it. Just wanted to see if the quality of their 2 strokes carried over to their 4 stroke engines.
Posted on: 10/16/2011 7:55 AM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10767759

LiPo Storage (How Long is Too Long?)
I have four 5000mAh, 3-cell LiPo batteries that I've used very sparingly just this season, before deciding that the plane really performed much better with 4-cell batteries, which I have just purchased. I may not find a use for the 3-cell LiPo batteries for a least a year. I just put a storage charge on them with a Cellpro Multi4, and put them away. Question I have is just how long can they be stored, and is there any maintenance that needs to be done? Thanks in advance for any responses.
Posted on: 9/25/2011 6:41 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10733930

RE: E Flite Eratix 3D 25e ARF Owners Club
Guys, thanks for the replies. Much appreciated! I guess that when I stated that I was looking for a "bit more speed" I should have included the disclaimer that my currently favorite plane to fly is a H9 Toledo Special and I fly it with an Evolution 46 glow. That should put into perspective what I mean when I say that I'm looking for a bit more speed out of the Eratix. In any event, the Eratix flew great with the 4S/4000mAh batteries from Hobby Partz. Just ordered two additional, identical batteries so I'll have four flights worth with me each trip to the field. Again, thanks for the advice and safe flying.
Posted on: 9/25/2011 1:50 PM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10733497

RE: E Flite Eratix 3D 25e ARF Owners Club
OK, so it's been almost a year since anyone has posted to this thread...let's see if anyone is still following. I purchased my Eratix about a month ago (have always flown glow power). What an incredible airplane! As others have posted, makes me look like I really know what I'm doing. A real pleasure to fly. There may actually be something to the whole "electric" thing. Here's my question. I started out with an E-flite Power 25, their 60A ESC, a 14x7 prop and a Turnigy 5000mAh, 3S battery. Flew great, decent power, but after about a dozen flights I was eager for a bit more speed. Went to my LHS and purchased an E-flite Power 32. Tried this combination with both the 14x7 prop as well as a 13x6.5 prop. Not much (if any) difference. For a moment I thought it may have actually gotten slower. Yesterday I ordered two 4000mAh, 4S batteries from Hobby Partz hoping that will make the difference I'm looking for, but just in case I'd also like some advice on programming the E-flite 60A ESC. The only thing that I think will make much difference is the timing. For those of you that are using the E-flite ESC with either the Power 25 or 32 motor, what timing have you programmed? Default is 15. Going up the options are only 20 and 25. Anyone?
Posted on: 9/23/2011 5:44 AM by Author "Homer712" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10730241