RE: What IC Engine to use ??
get the west 36 and a 11x4, its fairly quiet (most noise is from drumming on the covering) and the power is ballistic! i had an irvine 36 on mine, and my friend had a west 36, no comparison!
Posted on: 6/8/2007 8:07 AM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5960419

RE: New mini Raven 49"
wow! what can i say?! this plane is fantastic! by far the best small electric model i have ever flown! i have flown a lot too first off, the box art is really really nice, open it up and the plane is even nicer, really well packaged too. quality is on par, if not better, than all the other models of the ilk, but it has a few things that make it just that little bit better. for example, all the covering that needs to be cut away around the wings, servos, tail for gluing. The UC is really nice too, and is mounted in the fuz, rather on the bottom, making it more scale like. the slot is then covered with a really neat fairing, not something you see unless you buy giant scale. Light weight wheel pants also have the ply mount glued in place, and have 2 small dimples where the spat has to be mounted. Canopy magnets are HUGE, and as yet i cant get the canopy come off in flight, but i will keep trying. Covering is superb, and i still cant get my head around how well the raven outline goes from wing to fuz to canopy to cowl in perfect line. So on building front, perfect! However the flying is just amazing. really, i cannot stress enough how good this thing really is. its perfectly stable in all forms of flight, weather upright or inverted, no wing wobble or any snapping. actually, when flying fast tight manoeuvres, there is no hint of a high speed stall or wing drop. If anyone has seen the video of the 120 inch QQ yak, where he does those full power circuits low....well this plane does just that. not many planes i have the nerve to fly at 3/4-full power only a foot off the deck in tight close circuits, it feels so locked in. Precision aerobatics is the same too, very crisp points and pull-outs. im still experimenting with CG, but its still very promising with a rearwards CG. Knife edge is very powerful. I find it has a bit of slightly strange coupling when you get rudder hitting the elevators type throw, but with the power in the rudder, you really dont need that much throw. Landings are stable, but as with all light draggy planes, it does need power, or a steep glide slope. I have tried to break this plane in as many ways as i can, full power blenders, aneurysms and KE spins, nothing even phases it, just pulls out quickly easily and stably for whatever you next want to throw at it. I have done some ground crash testing (:D) and ive had no damage what so ever. Rolls and rolling harriers are very axil too All in all, one fantastic plane, deffinatly at the top of my list of electric planes for quality and performance, well done Zero Gravity! Here is a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7A-r6Oysguc
Posted on: 6/1/2007 1:54 PM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5930744

RE: SebArt Funtana S 140
electric isnt all that expensive in comparison to a YS setup. like, a YS 160, hyde ARI, hatori manifold and pipe, and a few cases of 30% is about the same cost as an AXI 5330 setup, or if your going back to germany, a Hacker A60-M setup. A charger isnt too bad either, a TP1010 which i recommend, is about $200 US. a set of decent flightpower 10s packs are just under 400 dollars, $249 for the A60-M and a ESC, about the same as the motor. no fuel ever to buy too! if you want any more info, shoot me a PM, im happy to help Ian
Posted on: 5/18/2007 11:22 AM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5870439

RE: SebArt Funtana S 140
try electric chosen69, a lot of money, but the funtana is a very lightly built plane, and comes ready to fit with electric. gas may vibrate it to pieces. also, electric power isn't affected by altitude (prop isn't as efficient, but there is no probs with air/fuel mix ratio), so you wont loose much power. The mount that comes with it is perfect for the Hacker C50, but a retro-fitted mount for a AXI 5330 would be easy to get hold of, and the overall setup much cheaper. some 10s 3700 lipos too, and you could have a 10lb rocket ship in your hands!
Posted on: 5/17/2007 12:52 PM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5866552

RE: Which one Arghhhhhh!!!!
whats your budget, and exactly how big is your flying space? foamys are OK, the flatouts are rubbish, if you want a decent foamy you can go wrong with a standard ikarus shcoky. However, if you have a slightly larger flying space, its worth stepping up to a 300W style airframe. my favorite is the multiplex acromaster, about 70 quid from inwood models, about 100 for motor, 35-40 for a decent lipo, and of course the radio. Flies really stable, smooth, yet can 3D awesome. will also fly in a very small space with the CG back and the throws cranked up, but leave that until later[;)] a normal rec or something is enough to fly it.
Posted on: 5/14/2007 9:58 AM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5852352

RE: What's Your Favorite Bird?
Yup, you got it, its a Capiche 140ex! a lot of hype about it a few years back, ive just got my hands on one 2nd hand. words cant describe how well it flies, there is NOTHING i have flown as good. Used to have a EF yak 54, the 74" one, and it doesn't even touch this. A friend with one says its better for 3D and precision than his QQ 102" yak. Shame it never made it big time, because it really is something else. Got a Hacker C50-14xl Acro Comp motor in the front, on 10s FP EVO20 5000mAh cells, mad power, can get 4 opposing snaps on an upline and it carries on.
Posted on: 5/10/2007 8:26 AM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5835725

RE: What's Your Favorite Bird?
NOTHING beats this plane, it is quite simply amazing! 78" span, 78" long, 10lbs, Hacker power[:D] [image]http://www.3drc.info/3drcdb/files/h_846.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 5/7/2007 4:45 PM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5823574

RE: Stay grounded! I'm flying my 3-D
what you need to do is all become such amazing pilots people want to land and watch you..... problem solved!
Posted on: 5/1/2007 4:56 PM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5797670

RE: Can Anyone help?
Sounds like a bad setup to me. Heat is only ever made by over amping. Im guessing the heli is collective pitch? if so, use this setup on the ESC: 9v cutoff Insensitive current draw Brake disabled Governor mode High Standard Advance Timing Soft Cutoff Soft Start (move to fast when you start to 3D it) Standard PWM switching Have you got the correct pinion? If this heli is like the Trex 450, get the RPM around about 2200-2400. You can measure this with a standard tach, but be careful. The way the governor works is it will keep a steady RPM to the rotor, whatever the load on the blades is (within reason). You can change the desired RPM by changing the % of the throttle curve. say you have a 5 point curve, and to get the RPM right at 0 deg of pitch, you need 75% throttle, so yur throttle curve will be 75, 75, 75, 75, 75. You ideally want this % to be nearest 100% as you can (healthier for ESC), so change the pinion to get it running the right speed. The head should have, say, +/- 10 deg of collective, no more for the moment. not sure about cyclic as its always different for different people. Is he heli CCPM? if so, make sure its 100% perfectly set up.
Posted on: 4/29/2007 1:41 PM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5787267

RE: Can Anyone help?
battery is more than fine for a 450 heli. that battery can handle loads, i used to run 1800s on my trex. I think its more a prob with the ESC, how have you set it up? and also, the radio setup? headspeed looks mega low, your aiming 2200rpm min, and probs no more than 2600 with plastic head. those SABs will go all the way up and post 3000. pitch between +11/-11 should be fine
Posted on: 4/28/2007 5:58 PM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5783748

RE: Extreme Flight RC Yak 54 - 74 inch!
[quote]ORIGINAL: FLYMIKE I just checked out my canapy and I couldnt see how it would blow apart like that even with openings in the firewall. Im wondering if yours was posible cracked from shipping or something. [/quote] If you have openings at the front of the plane, have you got air exits? if not that explains the canopy. Flying at speed,the pressure in the fuz is enormous (especially as its already heated by the engine, therefore expanded. Cut some covering away just behind the canopy at the bottom.
Posted on: 4/21/2007 4:50 AM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5747834

RE: Aileron flutter Fliton Inspire 60, what now?
also, i cant see it from here, but are the control surface gaps sealed? thats a big must!
Posted on: 4/14/2007 5:22 AM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5713380

RE: Aileron flutter Fliton Inspire 60, what now?
ball link at the servo end is IMO a very good idea, a clevis cannot bend in the up/down plain, so as you move the aileron, the hight of the control horn relative to the servo arm changes. This means that the pushrod will indeed, move in the vertical plain, with the "hinge" being on the servo arm. This means that the little pin on the clevis is under huge strain a lot of the time with larger control throws. Its not so noticeable in smaller movements, but when we are talking about 3D movments, its a lot of change of angle, that this inflexible, very thin, metal pin goes through. Of course this means that metal fatigue will come into play, and eventually it will snap. Same again with the control horn end, this again has to move sideways as a servo arms movement is not linear. This is why i like to use ball joints, as it eliminates unwanted stress from a part of the plane you really don't want stress on, as if it fails, it usually ends in disaster. However, i will make a few points: Do you need that much throw on the ailerons (i personally like soft ailerons even for 3D)? if not, make the servo arm shorter. Also, and this is IMO a must, get some CF tube with an internal diameter of 4-40, then simply cut this accurately to length (i use verniers) and slip it over the control rod. Threaded rod, although very convenient, is inherently flexible, i use stainless steel threaded rod when i need to use it as its stronger, yet still flexible even at these short lengths we use. As it is so flexible, and with the forces we talk about on the ailerons, the threaded rod will no doubt be flexing at full rate and at centre. The CF tube will make the rod virtually inflexible and this will help with the problem, as well as looking good. Also, maybe get different control horns, im not a particular fan of that type, i see it as just more flex from a thin bit of threaded rod. As the bevel on the ailerons isn't that big, you can get away with horns with a smaller reach. Take a look at these: http://www.robart.com/Horns.aspx the heavy duty ones come with a ball joint end, which is a great idea for minimizing slop and to get a smoother control. It also comes with the clevis, and acts as a ball joint but in the centre of the horn, so no twisting. the non ball race ones are just as good. You can see though they are very thick, have a large footprint so flex is absolutely minimal. Hope this helps Ian
Posted on: 4/14/2007 5:18 AM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5713377

RE: 16"-18" props?
yeah, run it on 5% with 18% synth oil. If you are using a pitts exaust, you MUST block one outlet to increase back pressure. this makes it ultra reliable, immediate pickup and an increase of over 1000rpm. In over 2 years not one deadstick. Mokis take ages to run in, but when run it, i have never owned such a reliable engine, unless its electric. For the 180, i suggest a 19-20" prop, 19x8 APC might be nice. This is only a guess though, as i have no experience in larger than 135 engines Ian
Posted on: 4/11/2007 8:31 AM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5698416

RE: 16"-18" props?
i liked the menz 18x6 on my moki 135, very nice prop
Posted on: 4/10/2007 4:52 PM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5695127

RE: Low wing model- can it do 3D well?
looks fine to me. Caps have low wings and they 3D about the best. Only thing is you may get pitching in knife edge, but nothing out of the ordinary. Let is know how you get on. Ian
Posted on: 4/6/2007 8:03 PM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5676141

RE: Aeroworks Yak 54 QB or QQ new yak 86 inch?
I dont think you can go wrong with anything QQ sells, so my vote, QQ
Posted on: 3/25/2007 7:23 AM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5613046

RE: Extreme Flight RC Yak 54 - 74 inch!
[quote]With the B46 on the 74" yak your take off weight (and prop size/power) is very close to Ian W's electric set-up. If you have any doubts to the capability of this plane at that weight log on to E.F.'s web site and watch his video again.[:D]—Yes Ian W. is better than I even imagine myself to be, but the plane must be capable for him to do what he does. [/quote] Hehe, thanks STG! I haven't weiged my plane, but a friend with the same setup is 12.5lbs. It doesnt feel at all heavy in flight, but you do notice the heavy feal on sharp, but not 3D pullouts (you know the type where you think your going to run out of air so you pull up hard?), and maybe adding the gyroscopic forces of the 22x12 prop. It would certiantly be better at a lighter weight, but unless you plan nearly hitting the ground a lot, you wont notice it too much Ian
Posted on: 2/19/2007 6:25 PM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5443248

RE: Extreme Flight RC Yak 54 - 74 inch!
my ethic for flying low is, if you can do it high and confident, why not try it a foot off the ground, whats the difference?! yes the ground is closer leaving less margin for error, but it hasnt got as far to fall[:)] Also, the not loving your plane, yes that helps. For the last two years ive been sponsered for models, to be honest, as they were given to me, i didnt treat them too well, and thrashed them, this gave me confidance to do stuff lower. Now im not sponsered, i have to be a bit more carefull, but i learnt a lot while not really caring about the planes, so i can fly lower with confidance, if that makes any sence? Try it with the sim, try it on a cheap plane, try it on your good planes, dont go in at the deep end strait away! Ian
Posted on: 2/6/2007 9:54 AM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5378675

RE: Extreme Flight RC Yak 54 - 74 inch!
yeah we do! this weekends been a blinder, no wind and fairly warm, clear skies on sat, bit foggy today I have hardly flown in the last 2 months, with winds hitting 90mph, then temps going around freezing point, with overcast skies.....not fun. But this weekend ive spent 9 hours flying outdoors and 2 indoors. great fun.
Posted on: 2/4/2007 4:07 PM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5370480

RE: Extreme Flight RC Yak 54 - 74 inch!
[quote]ORIGINAL: strulag [quote]ORIGINAL: Ian.W alu one is pretty good IMO. Its bendy, but it puts no force really on the UC plate. With a 12.5lbs electric model, with 2lbs of lipos sitting right over the UC, its a pretty good deal IMO. All it takes is a little de-bending at the end of a session and alls fine. Ian [/quote] Yeah but you can ben/debend after each flying session only so much
Posted on: 2/3/2007 1:38 PM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5365428

RE: Extreme Flight RC Yak 54 - 74 inch!
alu one is pretty good IMO. Its bendy, but it puts no force really on the UC plate. With a 12.5lbs electric model, with 2lbs of lipos sitting right over the UC, its a pretty good deal IMO. All it takes is a little de-bending at the end of a session and alls fine. Ian
Posted on: 2/3/2007 4:41 AM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5364127

RE: Do you use high and lo rates, or??
I use flight modes, with varying expo and rates for both smooth and 3D work. Fingers and thumbs, neckstrap too.
Posted on: 2/1/2007 1:21 PM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5356016

RE: Video: Donatas at it again!
No its not the nipple, its his own design, very simular, but how different can you make a shocky look! anyway, awesome flying, nice on Donatas
Posted on: 1/30/2007 7:58 AM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5344841

RE: Extreme Flight RC Yak 54 - 74 inch!
if anyones interest, this is my yaks last flight before i sell it, its very windy and i havent flown for a few weeks. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ar9gqyQmxH8 Ian
Posted on: 1/28/2007 5:14 PM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5336615

RE: add ons rfg3.5
nope[8D]
Posted on: 1/19/2007 3:17 PM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "RC Flight Simulator Software"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5290643

RE: Extreme Flight RC Yak 54 - 74 inch!
even though im neither Mike or Chris.... i dont think its worth it. I have none of those cross things left with mine, i keep knocking them when installing my Lipos (10 cells are quite big!), and i have no problem. Ian
Posted on: 1/5/2007 2:05 PM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5215134

RE: Extreme Flight 87" Yak 54 - Build & Fly
how about pics??? i need to see this big extra!
Posted on: 1/2/2007 10:50 AM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5196734

RE: 3D video...this guy is pretty good!
Bodywerks, it isnt a pattern plane he is flying! it looks like it, it has all the traits of a pattern design, however, many pattern planes, especially in europe and south america (CA planes, most of the ZN planes and some PL prod ones) come out in another "freestyle" version. The most obvious was CPLRs Caprise, as with most pattern planes, it is 2m x 2m, long moment arm, and small controll surfaces (although the caprise design is old, and does not look like moddern patten planes). However, with a bit of modification, the moment was slightly shortened and surfaces increased, what do you get? the ZN Majestic! one of the best freestyle planes ever created! Caprise on the left, majestic on the right. Same planes essentially, with just different surfaces. [image]http://www.znline.com/data/fixed-rom9907.jpg[/image][image]http://www.znline.com/data/maj99007comp.JPG[/image] Same with the CA models genisis (CHP model), the pattern model on the left, freestyle on the right [image]http://www.camodel.com.ar/modelos/genesis/galeria/GenesisDaveGreen.jpg[/image][image]http://www.camodel.com.ar/modelos/genesis3d/11.jpg[/image] This is pretty commen in europe as i said, the style of flying is named "artistic aerobatics", and includes a mix of hard 3D and smooth pattern flight, flown to music generally. unfotruneatly there isnt many videos about of these aircraft, but they can do rolling harriers superb! they struggle a bit on things like rolling harrier loops and vertical eights, due to their long moment arms, but normal RH flight is very smooth, as you can see here in this short clip http://www.camodel.com.ar/Videos/GENESIS%203D_1.wmv
Posted on: 12/30/2006 7:59 AM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5182015

RE: 3D video...this guy is pretty good!
[quote]ORIGINAL: matus777 [quote]ORIGINAL: R/C Addict Anybody know what plane that is? Looks nice! Damn this guy is good:D [/quote] I think it's CLP's composite 3D, pattern ship from Europe. Know a guy who had one with a YS160 but it vibrated too much and he sold it.....never got to see it fly but it looked good on the ground....control surfaces were large....did not watch the entire video but you can see the surfaces....bigger than "normal"? [/quote] Its a Smaragd Freestyle with a YS 170, as said in an earlier post. the smaragd was one of Wolfgang and roland mat's F3a planes a few years back, inevitibly there is also a 3D version. The YS 170 is pretty rare, only the top sponsered pilot get these, Christophe Paysent le Roux being one of them. of course more people are going to electric, so even fewer actually have them. they look really nice with a red valve cover. Obviously loads of power! [image]http://www.matt-rc.li/deutsch/modelle/images/smarmitwolf_g.jpg[/image] The pinwheel, also, looks awesome, but is actually quite simple, it requires, obviosly full rudder. Rudder on its own isnt enough (unless you are flying a really short coupled, overpowered light weight profile), so what you do is add a little bit of aileron the same direction as the rudder, and a varying amount of elevator, some planes need full elevator, some only need hardly any. you can do this with pretty much any freestyle plane Ian
Posted on: 12/30/2006 4:37 AM by Author "Ian.W" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5181820