RE: Am I the only one who flies pattern with no mixes in their plane ??
[quote]ORIGINAL: flycatch Your right however your also wrong. Most old school pattern fliers used the fingers not thumb method to fly. With the advent of computer radios the stick bangers joined the elite club of the pattern fraternity. What this caused was the crash of pattern flying. Without computer assistance how many people would be into large scale 3D? I at one tme flew pattern and still have one. Now I'm into scale and use mixing for quite a few functions. [/quote] Being a flyer of both pattern and 3D (used loosely), I didn't know anything about trimming when I first started pattern flying (or flying for that matter). As my brother and I both started really young, we both learned with our thumbs as our fingers were busy holding the transmitter from falling to the ground. At first I didn't use dual-rates, and don't think I started until I started flying the 5uaps in 1987. I think it was 1989 or 90 when I got the 9vap and still didn't use mixing/expo because I didn't know what it was. After a year or 2 I experimented and asked around and started using p-mixes and expo (even end-point adjustments). Now I couldn't imagine not using expo/dual-rates in my pattern/IMAC/3D set-ups. Mixing in my competition planes is nice and especially in FAI probably needed to be where I am, but for 3D and sport planes, I don't really bother with it cause I'm not trying to do anything more than have fun. I often think back to the days when I didn't have mixes/set-up knowledge and even dual-rates. I think because I didn't start with all of those things, I am a more aware pilot. One thing I do wonder at times is if I could learn to fly 2 finger, at least on the right stick (ail/elv, mode 2) for pattern to see if I could be any smoother, but almost 35 years of flying thumbs is hard to break. Besides, how can you move your fingers fast enough to do all the changes during a snap roll [:D]
Posted on: 9/10/2012 12:15 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223981

RE: F3A Results - SPOILER
[quote]ORIGINAL: serious power Hi Jim, Ok. That though is another topic really. I must admit that when I saw post 17 I was annoyed some and I felt it was unfair to both E power and to Brenner's unit. I'm not sure as to the correct interpretation of the new rule re K factors. Either way,so long as the pilots choose the maneuvers, it is likely that a good few of them will be using E power. They would be wise to keep that in mind while choosing if they think that their 'fuel' will run out. Brian [/quote] Ready for 'hot topic #2'? We didn't pick our unknowns, which was nice for once not having dinner after 10pm the night before the finals. The K's were 74 per the rulebook, 3-K6's and 4-K5's so all was good. The unknowns were kind of boring as far as differences between them because almost every turnaround had to have a snap in it to get to the total K up to 74. So basically we did Stall Turns with 1 1/4 snaps down, 45 Humptys with Snaps, 1/2 Cubans with snaps.... in both Unknowns. Watching the EC's it seems that the total K of 74 wasn't used and the Unk's there had a nice variety of maneuvers. Have I not found the most recent rendition of the rulebook? And Arch, Great job that you and your 'Team' that ran the Nats did. Not sure how you pulled off that F3A flight order in the finals, but nice job [:D]
Posted on: 8/9/2012 2:14 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11187319

RE: F3A Results - SPOILER
[quote]ORIGINAL: mwick JAS said '' It was noticed that one of the top 4 finishers were also 1st up in a round during the finals. '' I know that Andrew led off in Unknown #1 and that Brett led off in Unknown #2 but don't remember who led off for the F rounds. [/quote] Mike, I should have stuck with the first version of my sentence: It was noticed that each of the top 4
Posted on: 8/9/2012 12:51 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11187225

RE: F3A Results - SPOILER
[quote]ORIGINAL: can773 [quote]ORIGINAL: danamania Without getting too personal about the pilots who flew their pants off, please what precisely happened at the Nats this year with the conditions that so sorely tested the aircraft? Anything we truly learned that informs improvements for the future? [/quote] It was windy. I learned three things.... a) I need to practice more b) Flying right after Andrew when he is kicking our asses really sucked, which turns me back to point a) c) Don't assume that a ''rolling horizontal eight with 4 rolls'' is really in the horizontal plane....they are just messing with you. Its actually in the VERTICAL plane! If in doubt ask [b]before[/b] you get to the Nats! Doing it in the VERTICAL plane makes it MUCH MORE DIFFICULT! [/quote] It was REALLY windy the last round. I'm gonna look into those cool little wind meters that the soaring guys use. It's always fun to know what the actual conditions we fly in are. a) Same as Chad. Because I was borrowing planes, I didn't practice in heavy winds and probably could have used a few flights in them. b) Was relieved I wasn't right after Andrew [:D] It was noticed that one of the top 4 finishers were also 1st up in a round during the finals. c) Glad I knew how to read aresti; that horizontal vertical rolling 8 is a pain to write out on the call-sheet. [;)] I learned from my TOC/IMAC beginnings. My 1st IMAC Nats I did a Humpty wrong cause I didn't know how to read aresti. I learned shortly after that how to. Alejandro, 54's And not that I care about the debate on which power system is better (everyone likes what they like, that's why we are all entitled to our OWN opinion), but one thing I've found setting up so many planes is that one persons "1/2 throttle" isn't always what another persons is.
Posted on: 8/8/2012 9:13 AM by Author "JAS" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185587

RE: F3A Results - SPOILER
When I charged my battery used in the last Unk, my Cell-Pro said there was 21% still left in the pack (charged to storage so don't know what mAh it took). The first Unk I had 23% and that was the average for my F's as well.
Posted on: 8/7/2012 4:35 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11184799

RE: MARQUET 82MM CARBON SPINNER WITH COOLING SLOTS... WHERE TO BUY???
Funny enough the 'fanned' backplate had no difference in temperature than the lightened backplate. There was a 20 degree drop in my Fury when I tried the stock Tru-Turn to the Turbo with either lightened backplate. [quote]ORIGINAL: gaRCfield [quote]ORIGINAL: cdodom [quote]ORIGINAL: gaRCfield Does anyone know if the 'cooling' spinner has much of an effect? Did a search but didn't see any data/thoughts. [/quote] I helped Jason Shulman do the Testing on the Tru Turn Tubro spinner and the holes made the system as a whole run a lot cooler. Ill have to text Jason to see what kind of numbers we recorded. -chris [/quote] Chris, note that the Turbo spinner has a fan built into the back plate. I think that would make a measurable difference. [/quote]
Posted on: 7/8/2012 2:49 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11147817

RE: F3a The Future
I see the only jump in plane functionality is needed when going from F3A P to F3A F/Unknowns. Many of the recent F3A designs are actually harder to fly for many AMA pilots, but it's the cool factor that counts. I've heard of trainers beating out 2M pattern planes in Sportsman and I've even flown my Super Cessna to a 3rd place in Advanced once against 2M planes. I've watched a 50 size Wind S win Masters against 2M planes and flown/shared my 50 sized Era in F3A. I think even classic birds are competitive in the AMA classes, easily through Advanced (Double stall turn, that's classic right lol) and even Masters to a certain extent. Nothing wrong with the Venus, Sequence, Osiris, Vanquish, Wind.... are all great AMA planes, but without proper practice even an Axiome+ won't make you a winner. IMO I think it will take some purpose built planes for the F3A F/Unk's to be flown easily, and that most likely won't translate into planes that are easily flown in AMA classes.
Posted on: 7/3/2012 12:37 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11141570

RE: CA Models ENVISION
Posting for Joe Walker ([link=http://vellum2@bellsouth.net]EMAIL[/link]): Envision for sale (can be delivered to Nats) Includes: Pletty 30-10 Evo Tru-Turn Turbo spinner (Silver) APC 21x13W CC 80 HV ESC JR digital servos in wing and rudder Futaba digital elevator servos 6V Regulator TP Rx battery Set of Passport wings that fit on plane (no servos, but horns are on ailerons) (I have 14MZ/10C program for both wings and he has 12X program for swept wings) $1900
Posted on: 7/3/2012 8:59 AM by Author "JAS" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11141187

RE: BIPLANE IDENTIFICATION
Some info of 2 Sensations I know about (should be close to accurate) #1 Pletty Advanced CC 80 I think Futaba 153BLS and maybe BLS151 on rudder 4700g w 10S 5000 Marquette and 21x14 Falcon Painted Fuse, Monokoted wings/stabs #2 Hacker Q-80 11S CC 80 I think JR 3711HV's all around ~4800 w 10S 4350 Carbon and Falcon 21x14 Painted fuse and Ultracote wings/tail
Posted on: 7/3/2012 8:58 AM by Author "JAS" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11141280

RE: BIPLANE IDENTIFICATION
The actual plane in that picture is Mark Leseberg's Sensation (Gernot's design). It is for sale after the Nats RTF less RX and batteries.
Posted on: 6/28/2012 2:03 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11135399

RE: Composite-ARF Integral, kinda build thread
3mm or 6-32 bolts (depending on how robust you want them). Du-Bro .40 tailwheel (or MK).
Posted on: 6/28/2012 1:43 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11135419

RE: Composite-ARF Integral, kinda build thread
Having had 7 of these built in my garage, there are ways to actually take an Integral from box on Friday afternoon and test fly it on Sunday evening. Mostly, it's installing servos, mounting landing gear/tail wheel, epoxying in horns, firewall and rudder/battery trays in Friday night and then the chin and canopy mounting, servo pushrods/pull-pull Saturday and final rigging on Sunday. Just try to group glue sessions together. We've done this with all motor set-ups too. YS-160, OS-200, Hacker C-50, Pletty 30-10 and Fury F3A. During the winter the test flight was at dusk, but spring/summer time we had enough time for 3 flights.
Posted on: 6/28/2012 1:12 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11135376

RE: Contra Rotating Propeller Drive for f3a 2m Pattern Planes
Can't wait to see these at the Nats. I still have a Hacker 14XL Comp here just in case... Seeing/reading about all these changes since first seeing/flying Brenner's Integral is so interesting to watch.
Posted on: 6/22/2012 2:25 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11128062

RE: Still confused about (Futaba) servos
Before brushless servos I ran: 9151: Ail 9151 (Impact), 9155 (Integrals): Rud 9650: Elv I've gone to: 551BLS: Ail 352BLS: Rud 9650: Elv (soon 153BLS) The 9551's will also work on Ail. I've run the 9252 but went back to the 9151 for a 'better' feel (for me). I don't think MG vs. Plastic is an issue.
Posted on: 6/22/2012 2:17 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11128054

RE: Ideas for an intro pattern class
Bill, your input is what we're looking for. Your last line is very true too: "[i]Look, making an RC plane fly in a straight line is plain hard. I think if people accept that basic challenge and are hungry for more you may have a pattern participant. Otherwise, I'm not so sure.[/i]". We need the pilots either just starting pattern or even just thinking about trying pattern to voice their opinions and ideas. For an F3A pilot (me) to make an assumption about how to bring in more pilots that are on the fence about trying pattern is more speculation than fact (only cause I wasn't thinking to ask these questions at pattern contests earlier this year, but have a few club pilots I'm going to run this by this weekend). See I would assume that the current crop of Sportsman pilots would remain there, unless a pilot is really struggling with Sportsman and just has to move down to get more of a feel of flying with precision. This Club class would also only be offered if the CD of a contest wants to offer it. It would be more of an Unofficial event. I know at our club there were times when I heard of 4 or 5 pilots that would be willing to give pattern a shot but were afraid that their sport planes didn't have enough power or they were scared of the box. Yet I watch them fly and they don't even come close to the end poles and have more than enough power to make decent size maneuvers. When you flew in your first contest, were you intimidated that you had to fly in front of judges, other pilots planes in your class or nothing at all? What's the mind-set of a new pattern pilot? I was 7 when I entered my first contest, came in dead last, and most times the judges couldn't see my landings cause they were a quarter mile away (benefits of flying in Jamesburg, NJ at their county athletic park with 8 full-size soccer fields). I don't remember if my TF Headmaster trainer had enough power (Fox .40) to do everything properly, but I guess I did most things somewhat right cause I didn't have all 0's when I got my score sheets. I don't know what would have happened if I had to fly turnaround though. While I'm not sure that a non-turnaround sequence is really going to bring more pilots to pattern (there are many other factors why pilots won't try competition), maybe this would help sway a few still on the fence. And if the Club class is too easy, nothing would be holding them back from jumping right into Sportsman.
Posted on: 6/12/2012 3:13 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11115981

Ideas for an intro pattern class
While reading through some of the Bakersfield contest thread, it seems that there a many ideas for a 'club' class. There have been other discussions in various threads as well, so how about just making a thread about this? The shortened Sportsman class seems that have gone over well at Chip's contest so why not use that as a starting point. How about: Make a Club class Having a basically non-turnaround pattern of 5-6 maneuvers, with maybe 1 turnaround sequence like the old days... straight flight/stall turn/straight flight back No entry fee Any plane 80" and under The pilots won't be called to judge This will also give our current Sportsman pilots a place to get their feet wet in judging Awards: a certificate is printed (in the SE it would add 3 more to the trophy pool, but if other contests have trophies, the $3 plus printing wouldn't add much cost) however you want (pilot picture with plane and place). While it might make a little more work for the CD, I don't think the hopes of increasing participation in pattern would deter CD's from wanting to add this and I'd also be willing to bet that other pilots would help the CD's manage the extra class/pilots. I'm sure there are other ideas people have, so lets hear them.
Posted on: 6/12/2012 10:16 AM by Author "JAS" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11115646

RE: Coupling question
[quote]ORIGINAL: RByrd Great Stuff!!! The part I hate about mixes it that they show up in bads places usually at a different point in the sequence. I'm finding that out with my DeJaVu. Flies P great! This plane hates the F sequence!!! The rear CG and the mixes have up the work load and I hated it. I've been in some great discussion with Bryan on the issue and some of my own thoughts. I'm hoping to test in the next few days. Bottum line to get the C/G were I needed it. I moved the wing back 1 1/4 inch. This is all on the plane that I won the NATS with last year. It was great for Masters, but doesn't like the demands of F3A. So yes I'm making changes to make the plane fly better. Moving the wing may sound crazy, but aren't we all crazy in our own way!! LOL I was at 33-35% MAC. Now I'm in the 20-25% MAC. Tony I do remember the bipe you flew in '89 Team Trails. That was my first Team Selection. I remember watching all the mixes in that plane while you were preparing for your flight. That was crazy, but it worked. [/quote] Rick, I've got Joe's Envision he bought from me and he wanted to try a set of passport wings on it. I just slipped them on at the current wingtube spot and had to open the front slot forward a bolt hole and make new rear sockets for the adjusters. With the T, and the cg about 1" in front of the tube (I think), it groves through F pretty good. I'm going to make a tray extension to move the pack forward more (hanging 1.5" off the front of the tray) to get the cg a bit more forward. Now if I can land with more than 10% left in my pack I wouldn't have to worry so much about my packs.
Posted on: 6/6/2012 4:51 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11109279

RE: Super Cessna by Shulman Aviation
Finally able to get the pictures to work...
Posted on: 5/31/2012 12:22 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11101455

RE: Super Cessna by Shulman Aviation
Finally got some graphics on my Super Cessna. The one's included are a bit small for my taste so I spiced it up a bit. Also was able to have a new video shot while I was out last week. Here it is: [link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pybU2SmK6gI]Super Cessna Video[/link]
Posted on: 5/22/2012 8:01 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11090805

RE: Kontonik JIVE 120 HV Startup trouble: Any help?
I think you might find that the Astro Watt meter is only good to 69/70A
Posted on: 5/17/2012 6:36 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11085056

RE: Super Cessna by Shulman Aviation
Now that your Super Cessna is done, kick back and enjoy looking at your new plane. Not too long cause the real fun comes when you fly it. Here's some pics of mine after a successful day of 'test' flying it. My 'test' flights are about as easy as flying a plane through a train I don't go easy on new planes because if the plane is going to break, I don't want to fall in love with it THEN watch it hit the ground (cause of some failure, not my stupid flying). Here she is, pre-graphics. I'm using a couple of old TP 3850 4S packs and can get about 7 minutes of hard flying out of them. 6 minutes might be better since these packs are at least 3 or 4 years old so I think I'm going to reset my timer. Here's my set-up: Futaba 7C Futaba 606FS Fasst Rx (NOT RECOMMENDED, 617 instead, it's just what wasn't in a plane) Fury 41/50-570 motor Fury 55A ESC Futaba 3003 on rudder, S-131S on elv/ail (they weren't in a plane either) APC-E 12x10 prop TP 3850 V2 batteries (3 or 4 years old) Throws are maxed with I think -60% expo (JR/Spektrum use +60% expo). Loved every minute. If I can get some video I'll post it, but not sure a camera-person can keep up [:D]
Posted on: 5/12/2012 4:08 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11078253

RE: CPA - Andersonville Contest
That's the one. I think someone posted a video of the flight on Youtube. Since then I put a slightly larger fin/rudder on it, but haven't flown it again.
Posted on: 5/12/2012 2:50 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11078273

RE: Dirty Birdy ARF
We are hoping to have them by mid-June, but will keep everyone posted. They will drop in with only one slight mod, in the wings, needing a couple of grooves in the rails. Bottom of page 15 shows the mains, and just realized I never posted the nose gear.
Posted on: 5/12/2012 2:48 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11078270

RE: Super Cessna by Shulman Aviation
Only a few things left now to do. Mount the prop (and spinner if you have one), 12x10 APC-E if using the Fury motor, before checking your CG. Check your Cessna with your battery so that the CG is at 2.25" back of the leading edge of the wing before placing your velcro on the floor. Add some velcro on the battery floor and a security strap. The one that we have flying now, the battery splits the front former. One last thing. Since the Fury ESC has an on-off switch, you can mount it to the side of the fuselage so you can arm/unarm the motor. Make a paper template of the switch and 2 mounting holes. Mark the fuselage just ABOVE the silver stripe (I mounted mine too low and it's right inline with the throttle pushrod guide) and cutout/drill the marks. Using thin CA, harden the balsa in the area. Use a couple of 3/8" or 1/2" long 2-56 screws and washers to mount the switch. No need to tighten it through the balsa, just tight enough to keep in place. **TIP** for your security strap for the motor battery ... if you hate fishing for it when you're done flying and remove you battery, put a piece of fuzzy velcro under the battery tray where your strap goes. This will keep the strap in place when not around the battery. Also, put a piece of hook side on the sides of the fuselage next to where your strap is to keep it out of the way when you're installing your battery.
Posted on: 5/12/2012 2:19 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11078225

RE: Super Cessna by Shulman Aviation
Add a small hole in the front of the cowling for some air intake. Using a dime as a template, trace around it about 1/2" below the current opening. Using a dremel, open it up and finish it off with some sandpaper (320 grit). We haven't put an air exit in our Cessna, but it you find your system running too hot, or just want to, you can open 2 slots just behind the rear wing former like marked in the picture. Make sure the covering is wrinkle free in the area you are about to open up. Mark the outside on the covering and remove the covering first with a knife. Using a small sanding drum with the dremel will make short work of the balsa floor. Seal the edges with some thin CA so the covering doesn't peal up.
Posted on: 5/12/2012 1:49 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11078218

RE: Super Cessna by Shulman Aviation
Now the fun part, the pull-pull set-up. First set-up your servo arm with the 3 screw down adjusters on it. Drill out the servo arms (I think #50 drill bit) so they are free to rotate in the arm, but not sloppy. There are 2 washers on them, one for each side of the servo arm. Place a small drop of blue thread lock on the threads and hand tighten the nuts. Make sure the adjusters are free to spin, but not loose on the arm. I find that if I turn them clockwise, they will tighten themselves, but can become too tight, so go back and forth and see what feels right. Do that for all 3. I used the outer holes on the arm for the pull-pull and the next to inner hole for the nose gear steering. Once these are dried (20 minutes or so), loosen the screws in the tops so that you can slide the threaded ends through them freely. Slide the nose gear pushrod in to the inner adjuster and then put the servo arm on the centered servo. It will be helpful to have your radio on during this (if you power up through the ESC, PLEASE leave your propeller OFF if you've already put one on). Now the fun begins. The hardest part is probably going to be getting the cables from the rear exits to the servo. Remove your elevator pushrod from the plane. You will need to have the cables running over the pushrod, so it makes sense to get it all hooked up then reinstall the pushrod under it. The cables will end up being crossed in the middle, so feed one side in from the rear cable exit and pull forward. Once you get it up front, put the last 5" of the cable in the threaded end on the rudder so it doesn't fall into the fuselage. Grab one of the brass crimps and slide it on the cable then feed the cable through one of the thread ends. At this point you should have about 3" of cable sticking out past the threaded keeper and now pass it back through the brass crimp. With about 1/2" between the threaded end and the brass crimp, bend the cable on the back end of the crimp at a 90 angle. This will help keep the brass from sliding back and also help with the loop part coming up. Pinch the cable around the threaded end to make the first loop tight like an oval. Then at that 90 in the cable, push it back forward against the cable (so it goes forward) and loop the cable back in through the front of the brass crimp and pull tightly through. The cable at this point should be tight enough not to loosen it when you let go. Using needle nose or regular pliers, squeeze down the brass crimp around the cable. Repeat this for the second cable coming forward. Remember to have the cables crossed. Now you will repeat this again for the rudder ends, but it should be easier as they are outside of the plane. Here's the additional steps you need to do for the rudder end. First put the front threaded ends in the adjusters and tighten them down snug, half way up the threads. Still with the radio on, do one side of the rudder cables. I usually pull the surface slightly short of center when crimping the rudder parts. When both are done, the tension will be pretty close to spot on. Once the first side is done, loosen that front side adjuster of the finished cable so it's not connected, then repeat for the other cable. When the 2nd cable is done, you can hook up the 1st cable (needle nose help to grab it off the bottom of the fuselage) and pull it tight and tighten it in the adjuster. Tighten all 3 of the adjust screws (don't go crazy tight as you could tighten the set screw right through the threaded keeper lol, and make sure the nose gear is straight) and the rudder is done. Reinstall the elevator pushrod and the Cessna is almost ready to fly.
Posted on: 5/12/2012 1:44 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11078217

RE: Super Cessna by Shulman Aviation
Rudder horns Gather up all the parts for the rudder at once so these next 2 steps go quicker. First place a horn on the rudder (plane on it's side) and get the horn base right up to the hingeline. The holes in the horn will not make it to the hingeline in this case, but won't affect the set-up. Mark the hole locations and then drill them through. Try and get them straight through so the screws will fit the 2nd horn without too much opening of the holes. No problem if they aren't perfect, it's just balsa and opens easily. I think I used a #49 drill bit here too. Once the holes are drilled, and you can get the horn on both sides, put some thin CA in the holes to get the balsa harder to help resist crushing once you screw the horns on. Before you mount the horns on, drill out the holes in the horn for the swivel links. I used the holes just inside of the outer holes. Then with the long 2mm screws, put the horns on the rudder and secure them with the 2mm nuts and a big drop of blue thread lock. You shouldn't ever need to take these off so lock them good, just don't over tighten them and crush the rudder. Thread the threaded couplers into the swivel links half way and then mount the swivel links on to the horns, using a drop of blue thread lock on the 2mm nuts to secure them in place.
Posted on: 5/12/2012 1:35 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11078210

RE: Super Cessna by Shulman Aviation
Hinging Starting with the elevator, slide the 4 hinges in the pre-slot cuts. They should slide in about half of the hinge length. If so, you can do what I did and skip the part about putting the pins in the hinges. Since they only go in about half way anyway, when you slide the elevator onto the stab the hinges won't be able to push in any further. You can use the pins as a good gap device to assure plenty of throw if the stock bevel isn't enough already. Check and make sure the elevator moves nicely with the hinges in it, recheck your gap and then use (fresh) thin CA to glue the hinges in place. If you have a tip to go on the CA bottle that thins down to a point (like the picture) you might want to use it as this will help get the CA more on the hinge and less on the plane. I glue the tops twice, one time nose high, one time tail high, then glue from the bottom with both nose and tail high. Once the elevator is glued in, take the elevator horn (the one with the 2 spikes) and mark the stab so the holes in the horn are over the hingeline (front of horn will be at the bevel of the elevator). Line it up a bit off center to the left so the swivel link will be closer to center of the fuselage. Remove the covering in this area and make sure to scuff the horn and 2 prongs well so the epoxy has a surface to bond too. This will be glued in a bit later. It will also be easier to drill open the upper most hole for the 2mm screw for the swivel link at this point. I think it was a #49 drill bit. Also remove a bit of the material at the top of the fuselage rear opening for the pushrod to have plenty of clearance. Once the horn is ready to mount you can hinge the rudder if you like. If you want to glue the horn first, then skip to the next step and come back to this afterward. The rudder will hinge just like the elevator. Slide the hinges in the rudder part. Here again they will probably only go halfway in on the hinge. If so, slide the rudder onto the fin, check your throws, using the pins for a bit more space if necessary, and use thin CA to secure like you did the elevator.
Posted on: 5/12/2012 1:31 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11078161

RE: Super Cessna by Shulman Aviation
Elevator pushrod. I also did this differently from the instructions, with a Z-bend and a swivel link. Needed is the carbon pre-assembled pushrod and swivel link assembly. I don't have a picture of the pushrod alone, but the next post will show it in the fuselage. Screw on the swivel link about 7 turns (or half way in the swivel link) and put the pushrod in the fuse from the back. Make sure the pushrod sits above the servos when it's in the fuselage. Put the screw in through the swivel link and the horn, make sure the elevator is level, and mark the rod over the servo arm. Remove it all and put the Z-bend in and remove the extra pushrod material after the Z (leave 1/4"). Put the servo arm on the Z and slide back into the fuselage, put the servo arm on the servo (radio on will help keep the servo from moving while putting the arm on) and secure the swivel link with the screw and washer/nut. Make sure to use a drop of blue thread lock on the 2mm bolt. Check to make sure that the swivel link at the rear isn't hitting the fuselage. If so, remove a bit more material from the fuselage until it clears.
Posted on: 5/12/2012 1:30 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11078205

RE: Super Cessna by Shulman Aviation
Once the ailerons are dried and you have CA'd the hinges in securely, it's time to hook-up the aileron servo. First screw on the horns to the torque rods. Get them even height with each other, as flush to the top as you can. Then grab the 2 clevis' and the 2 short pushrods and screw the clevis' on. I screw them on so the pushrod comes out a couple of threads in the back. This is where I did things differently from the instructions. I like Z-bends on the servo ends. They are solid, impossible to come off unless the servo arm breaks, and with a Z-bend tool, take about 3 seconds to do. Put the pushrods on the aileron horns, but don't clip them in (just gonna remove them again), and set them on the servo horn. With the ailerons centered (taped) mark the wire and then remove them. Stick them in the Z-bend tool, squeeze, clip the excess wire past the Z to about 1/4" long and done. Put the Z-bends into the servo arms (drilled out to fit the wire) and put the clevis' on the horns. Some final adjusting then snap the clevis' together and the ailerons are done. Last thing to do to the wing is put some thin CA in the wing hold down holes so it helps prevent to wood from crushing under the wing bolts. CAREFUL not to put too much at once and get it on the other side of the wing... Wing is all done!
Posted on: 5/12/2012 1:25 PM by Author "JAS" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11078201