Want a carry around flier
I am looking for a plane that I can tote around to fly when I travel but not so small I can't see the thing. Would love to get another typhoon but they don't make it any-more.I need something tough enough to survive being tossed in the trunk and other hanger rash that travel can cause. That it why I am thinking of a foamy. Really don't need a full out 3-D plane but want it to be able to do most aerobatic moves. Just something simple and tough and ready at a minute notce3. Don't want much do I?? Wish they made a foamy little stick! Any-way, I figured you all might have some favorites I could look at. Thanks
Posted on: 5/17/2013 6:19 PM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514748

RE: Rattle Can Painting Advice
Ralph, you said the regular red rustoleum IS fuel-proof? Maybe I should leave the clear off of mine. I am using all Red on mine.
Posted on: 8/29/2012 3:12 AM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209990

RE: Rattle Can Painting Advice
I looked at the lustercoat and if it will go over enamel I would use it but my LHS couldn't tell me whether it would or not. Just said to test it. Have you ever used it on top of Rustoleum? I didn't use engine enamel just the regular gloss enamel.
Posted on: 8/23/2012 2:15 AM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203031

RE: Rattle Can Painting Advice
PM me and let me know how it goes. I have to wait for my sticker man to finish up a few things and I will be doing my clear as well. I haven't decided what clear to go with but have been told that Rustoleum is definately not fuelproof. I have a piece that I sprayed for a test drying now and will try it out in a week or so.
Posted on: 8/22/2012 6:00 PM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11202687

RE: Rattle Can Painting Advice
Just painting my first wing with Rustoleum too. I have tried both and have had better results if I wet sand the base coat with some 1000 just enough to dull the gloss and take the top off the orange peel. I have been told this will help the clear stick as well. I was doing the clear to seal the stickers and trim in and keep them from peeling up. Have had pros and cons suggested on doing that as well. My problem with the Rustoleum is whether the clear is fuel proof. From the tests I have done it isn't but cure time may affect that. Time will tell. Are you using Rustoleum clear as well?
Posted on: 8/22/2012 3:14 AM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201835

RE: Rattle Can Painting Advice
What kind of paint are you using?
Posted on: 8/21/2012 6:51 PM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201534

RE: Painting with rustoleum
Double posted that, sorry! Didn't realize we went to page two! Must have stayed up to late touching those ailerons up!! I went to the Klass Kote web-site and it seems like they have a very good customer support. Maybe they can tell me about methods and such. Next time I think I will stay with all one brand. Lesson learned here may just be that the easy cheap way usually don't work out so good. And if in doubt, ask an Old Timer, they have been there already!!
Posted on: 8/20/2012 5:43 AM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199496

RE: Painting with rustoleum
Try this one. I must have copied it wrong or something from Amishwarlords earlier post. His link works and I copied and pasted it some how wrong. Fumble fingers!! http://www.nelsonpaint.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/2742633255.jpg
Posted on: 8/20/2012 5:36 AM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199490

RE: Painting with rustoleum
Looking at the KK. How much do you think it would take to do a 40 sized sport plane. I get the price at about 15 bucks for a half pint and the same for the hardner. So a pint would be 30 bucks. If that would do it with some to spare it would be well worth it.
Posted on: 8/19/2012 9:52 PM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199321

RE: Painting with rustoleum
Is the brushed type as light as spray.
Posted on: 8/19/2012 9:34 PM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199311

RE: Painting with rustoleum
So far my test with the gloss red tend to agree. So my options now are to re-sand and go back with another type of paint or to find a fuel-proof clear to go over the whole thing except for the stickers which I will do last being as the smallest are 1 1/2 inch and the biggest are 5 inch. I am looking at this http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm for a sealer. Ever heared of it? Says it will go over enamel and I have been told the two part type are the best bet. This stuff is SUPPOSED to be fuel-proof.
Posted on: 8/19/2012 7:42 PM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199219

RE: Painting with rustoleum
So the klasskote clear, put on in thin light coats, would be O.K. over a base of Rustoleum Enamel Red??
Posted on: 8/19/2012 5:05 PM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199032

RE: Painting with rustoleum
I did a test with some scrap I had. I painted a piece with red (Rustoleum) and did another with red and then clear(both rustoleum enamel) What I found was that the plain red got gummy when fuel wsa put to it and the one with clear wrinkled up on its own. I think the cure time is the problem. It didn't have but a day of it befor I put the clear to the one piece and the fuel to the other. I already have the base coat on the wing so what I think I will do is to find a known good clear to seal this thing up. After I let it cure for a few weeks. I will look for the Nelsons and the Klass Kote as well. I need to find something that is proven. You hear this and hear that but I guess the proof is in the puddin so to speak. Right now I need to find a clear that will go over this enamel.
Posted on: 8/19/2012 1:41 PM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198868

RE: Painting with rustoleum
This clear, http://www.nelsonpaint.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/2742633255.jpg, Will go over enamel O.K.
Posted on: 8/19/2012 4:52 AM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198485

RE: Painting with rustoleum
I was thinking of the clear to "seal" the stickers and trim. That's why I was going to clear over top of them. I have been told that the Rustoleum was fuel-proof.
Posted on: 8/19/2012 4:32 AM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198470

Painting with rustoleum
I am building a .40 sized sport plane and have it painted with Rustoleum. Finish came out good, after alot of wet sanding and all, and I am happy with it. I want to get the decals and trim on it and clear coat over it with rustoleum clear. I looked on the web and have seen some horror stories about clear and don't want to screw it up so I will ask you guys here about it. Any tips that I should know before I shoot it? By the way, both the the base and the clear are enamel. The base is gloss protective enamel and the clear I am thinking of is the Crystal clear enamel.
Posted on: 8/19/2012 4:15 AM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198463

Super Gnatty
I have a Super gnatty kit that I am attempting to fininsh building. I got it from my Dad who bought it many many years ago while stationed in England. What I need is to know the CG and maybe even some control throws. I have no plans but the build is fairly simple, Foam core wing, sheeted with ply and a glass fuse and solid balsa horizontal and vertical. It is made with an-hedral and a swept wing and is a high wing. The model is put out by a company out of Peterborough, England but I can't seem to find any info on the web. Any one out there that can help??
Posted on: 8/15/2012 3:09 AM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11194078

RE: Flexshaft Woes!
That would be the problem. I had thought the thrust washers should be a little loose, like as very little loose, and that is how I set it. Live and learn. Gotta learn somewhere. Appreciate the tip and or lesson. Any-one know where I can get a book "R/C Boating For Dummies"? Kidding. You got a link to Gizmos'?
Posted on: 6/3/2012 2:47 PM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11105004

RE: Flexshaft Woes!
End-Play?? Explain this please. It may well be what is wrong if I understand it.
Posted on: 6/3/2012 2:01 PM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11104963

RE: Flexshaft Woes!
It is a O.S. 81 VR-M. The cable is a 1/4 inch stepped to a 3/16 but it broke almost 3 inches from the metal step part. Just to clarify, it isn't an O/B it is an inboard.
Posted on: 6/3/2012 1:32 PM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11104940

Flexshaft Woes!
Went to the river yesterday to try out a new prop and got my tunnel fired,tuned dropped her in and hit the throttle-instant nothing!! I had noticed that the last time I ran it the prop had dropped back about a quarter inch and figured that it had slipped at the engine collet. I slid it out and greased it from the engine side not really taking notice of the prop end. Re-positioned it and swapped props. Ready for the next run. NOT. It snapped the flexshaft about 3/4 the way from the engine, dropped the prop to the bottom of the river. I dont have any hard bends in the tube and it was fairly new as far as the driveline goes. Teflon lined tube and thrust washers and the cable is a 1/4 stepped to 3/16 that was new too. I bought the "good" cable grease and usually re-grease about every third run. What can I do to keep this from happening again. Twenty bucks a prop and a thirty buck cable hurts when they go to the bottom of the river.
Posted on: 6/3/2012 4:25 AM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11104513

Fiesler Storch
I have a 81 inch Storch that I have had for around three years and have been fixing it up and flying it as I could. I need a cowl for it as the one I have has been repaired over and over to the point that I would like to start over new. When I got it the cowl was cut way too big and I attempted to repair it which lasted about a season. Another repair another season, so fourth. I think I have learned the right way to make repairs to a cowl now at least I have learned the wrong way. I will attempt to get some pics for ID. If any-one knows who makes this bird I would love to know.
Posted on: 5/31/2012 2:50 AM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11100894

RE: Intake ideas??
I took some more pics of the front end of my boat. I think alot of the water was from the front edge of the hatch cover. It wasn't sealed and I think the water was getting in when it turned the front fork would let it come over the top a little and it would go right in and along the top of the tank and just like a vacum cleaner the engine would suck it up. I put a strip of weatherstripping along the front and down both sides to help. Still would like to pull some air from somewhere other than striaght forward.
Posted on: 5/30/2012 4:03 PM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11100464

RE: Intake ideas??
I have been thinking along the lines of a splash guard or maybe an intake tube that will keep the water from "splashing" up into the intake. I will try and post some more pics if I can. For some reson the site won't let me most of te time but maybe it has fixed it-self.I don't know if water is getting in from the water vent tube. It tends to go up and over the boat. The pick-up is on the rudder. I like it there because I can see it better. This thing is pretty hard to keep in site unless I run it down with my Bass boat. I took a video of it running on it's first run and it was running pretty low then. I have since adjusted it so that it runs a little higher and it runs a bigger prop but you can take a look at the video at http://youtu.be/OtDhhUsMYns I will take some more pics of the front and the cowl and see if I can get them up here.
Posted on: 5/30/2012 2:32 PM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11100327

RE: Intake ideas??
If the site will let me. Cool, it appears to be co-operateing this morning.
Posted on: 5/30/2012 3:05 AM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11099563

Intake ideas??
I run a O.S. 81 on my tunnel. It is pretty fast and rides very low and can't take very rough water. I was wondering if any one has come up with a design for a intake tube that will help keep water from being sucked into the carb quite so easy. Seems my driving skill isn't up to par with this boat and I tend to drop the nose now and then. Water gets up there and that huge carb will suck it up in a hurry. I have done some trim work with her and have it to where it runs as high as possible without coming completely out of the water. Thanks to a lot of you guys she runs and handles great. I just think there could be a way to get air a little better than a huge hole pointing straight forward like it does. Any ideas?
Posted on: 5/30/2012 12:02 AM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11099496

RE: Stipped head screw fix??
Wish I had known that would work. Think I will try what I have and order that one. Won't have to do alot being as the bearings are all in the front housing. I wonder how much would have to be done to do away with the disc in the backplate and go to the drum?
Posted on: 5/22/2012 8:11 AM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11090357

RE: Stipped head screw fix??
I got a screw that was longer and managed to grab a few threads at the bottom. It did seem to torque down but I am not at all sure it will hold. Would you put some Loctite down the hole to help it? The hole is open at the bottom but there isn't alot of room to make the hole any bigger. It also is very close to the cyl and uses the bolts to line the cyl. I would have to mod the cyl to take a bigger screw. I would get another case but can't even get a parts diagram for this motor. Been told it is in the 7.5 family but I don't think the case is the same.
Posted on: 5/22/2012 3:03 AM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11090033

RE: Sig Tri-Star
Mine didn't do so well. Balance was off and crash was bad. Still have the plans if you want them.
Posted on: 5/21/2012 7:30 PM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11089693

RE: Engine Bearings???
[quote]ORIGINAL: RC-Bearings Ohhh, where to start... AMSOIL meets or exceeds all manufacturers warranty requirements. Stainless steel bearings aren't significantly softer than bearing steel, maybe 1-2 Rockwell points. 440c stainless steel needs to be exposed to oxygen (air) to remain stainless. You will have a VERY hard time finding chrome plated bearings! I use any brand of air tool oil as they all do the same thing: displace water from the metal and protect against corrosion. I have some bearings that I took out of an engine over 10 years ago and let them sit on the shelf while I was in the UK (HUMIDITY!). They would not rust. They came out of an engine that ran a castor/synthetic oil. For YS engines, you can use Redline synthetic oils as they are still diester based. I do not have any WD40 anywhere near my house. Almost ANYTHING is better. Penetrating lubricants also strip off the good oils left from the fuel. Their oil isn't nearly as good for film strength. [/quote] 3in1 won't harm my ceramics right?
Posted on: 5/20/2012 6:17 PM by Author "James c harrell" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11088188