RE: Tamiya leo 2 issues
I had some issues like this. I found that there are a few things that can cause this. Firstly, would be the 4 screws that hold the drive sprocket hub onto the transmission. If the splined shaft is not seated in the transmission properly, it will cause the driveshaft to protrude too much, and cause sprocket rubbing on the inside fenders. Secondly, the little hubs that fit inside the sprockets might not be seated properly. On one of my Leos, this was defective (new kit too) and didn't seat properly. I had to replace the small hub that (the aluminum one) that the sprocket screws go into.
Posted on: 9/17/2012 2:23 PM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11231461

RE: A True White Elefant.
Thanks for the compliment on the paint. As to kit hurdles, I found the bearing recesses in the lower hull (i.e. where each bogie assembly attaches to the hull) were too shallow for the supplied bushings. I had to deepen the recess with a dremmel tool to get the retaining e-clips on. The bushings for road wheels were also a challenge. I found that when you tighten up the screw retaining each road wheel to the bogie, it compresses the bushing....and presto, the wheel doesn't turn. One can loosen the screw to make the wheel turn freely, but then the wheel falls off when the screw backs out (because it was so loose). Aftermarket bearings are an easy work around. The bearing kit I bought came with 24 in the set. However, I found that one actually needs 4 additional bearings (i.e. 28 bearings) to equip the idler sprockets (2 bearings go in each road wheel/idler sprocket and arguably, the idler sprocket is the wheel that would benefit the most from bearings, as it has the most stress.) Idler system is perfect. Don't change a thing. I suggest one have a 3mm "ball end" allen driver on hand (not in the kit (a regular 3mm allen wrench is included, however)). You'll be needing it to install the front deck. The retaining screw is in an obstructed location. Traverse system on a JP should be adaptable. There's tons of room inside to make it work. Over all, this kit was a difficult build, but it is exceedingly unique, and I'm glad it's available to the market.
Posted on: 9/17/2012 8:51 AM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11231101

RE: A True White Elefant.
Thanks very much. It has tons of torque with the 480s and the 8 tooth pinions. It really jumps when you move the sticks. I'll see if I can get a video up of it running around the yard.
Posted on: 9/16/2012 7:04 PM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11230516

RE: A True White Elefant.
Thanks very much for the compliments. The elevation is good. I'd say about 20 to 25 degrees or so up, and 10 or 15 degrees or so down. Traverse is even better, the best traverse from a TD I've ever seen. Transmissions are mostly stock Hoobens. We'll see how they work. 480s and 8 tooth pinions were installed though.
Posted on: 9/16/2012 6:01 PM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11230454

RE: A True White Elefant.
What me...wait? Never! All done! Lots of...special fixes too. Runs even better than it looks. Full option Tamiya equipment inside with 480 motors. Still missing a pesky mg in the bow location, but one is inbound. If you can believe, I've got 3 American mgs, but no German. Sigh...I considered putting in an American, but the rivet counters at the next battle would be all over that.[X(]
Posted on: 9/16/2012 5:43 PM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11230432

RE: A True White Elefant.
[quote]Perhaps a Snow Elefant?[/quote] Planning a 3 color camo scheme. I just primed it white to make the base yellow pop. I need it to be as vivid as possible. No more winter camo tanks planned. The definition of white elephant is appropriate enough to the tank...and the tank hobby. Ironically, they have much in common. Paint going on today.
Posted on: 9/16/2012 7:42 AM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229947

A True White Elefant.
Just finished priming, and my wife told me I had a "white elephant". LOL As usual, she's right...
Posted on: 9/15/2012 8:56 PM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229693

RE: Stripped allen bolt
[quote]When I turn the sprockets by hand they more fine till I get to one point and it jams slightly and continues.[/quote] I had a very similar problem to that. It turned out to be one of the four screws behind the drive sprocket (that holds the metal plate into the transmission unit) had backed out and was wedging in between the tank body and the sprocket. Simple fix...once you get the sprocket off...that is.
Posted on: 9/12/2012 1:57 PM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11226463

RE: Tamiya PZIV overhaul + Brass Schurzen
Harvey, I suggest trying some 100% brass wire sold at most hobby stores. Usually under the "KS Metals" brand name. I know they make some small guage (I've used it before) wire in brass. It comes in a plastic pouch with several wires in it. I speculate that if one were to hammer it lightly on a small anvil so that it was modestly flat, and then bend to shape, I think it would solder up nicely to the brass plate of the shurzen. As to bending, a jig would be best as mentioned by Jim (1sgt) for a uniform bend. If uniformity is not a priority, you should be able to hand bend them fairly consistent. There is a short cut out there if you want to go the jig rout, it is a bending gauge like this and might be a real "talent multiplier" (i.e. when it comes to handles) and may just provide the consistency that you seek. Just an idea. Jeff
Posted on: 9/12/2012 10:41 AM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11226254

RE: Stripped allen bolt
I had some issues with the sprocket and allen bolt on a Leo2 once as well. I ended up replacing the drive sprockets and allen bolt on one side if I recall. My suggestion is to get the damaged parts off, then you'll know what you've got to do. Sounds as if you've got nothing to lose by attempting to drill out and remove the stripped bolt. We could likely give more specific advice if you could take a few pics of the the offending parts.
Posted on: 9/12/2012 10:26 AM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11226240

RE: Cool Tank Movie for Walker Bulldog Fans
I just checked online, it's still there.
Posted on: 9/8/2012 8:12 AM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "War Room"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11221730

RE: Tamiya PZIV overhaul + Brass Schurzen
Harvey, I think the shurzen distinguishes your Pz4 from the rest (at least mine...the only other Pz4 in the club, lol). Yours looks much different with the shurzen installed, and more like a "late war" Pz4 should look (in my opinion, at least). Looks like I'm driving "plain vanilla" now.... I'll be very interested to see how (or, more aptly, if) the shurzen impedes mobility. That's always stopped me from considering it on any tank. As far as the brass construction...bravo on the scratch building ingenuity! It is refreshing to see someone do a true scratch build technique on their tank. Custom brass design and build is a very difficult art to master, and yours looks very nice. If you still would like it soldered up, I am pretty good working with brass and solder and can help if needed (maybe during down time at a battleday). I'd be happy to assist. As to paint, the camo looks much better. I never really noticed it, but you were correct about the pink being present, and now it is gone. It is a very nice paint job. I can't wait to see it in person to see how it blends with the battlefield foilage. Hopefully, we'll have some nice fall colors on the battlefield at are next battleday. Jeff
Posted on: 9/7/2012 9:22 AM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220730

RE: My Collection & Your Collection
[quote]One question for you ALL, how does your spouse or parents, if living at home with them, feel about your collection? How do you deal with that ? [/quote] My wife tanks with me. She has her own tanks, and goes with me to every club battleday.
Posted on: 9/5/2012 8:15 AM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11218248

RE: Tamiya Tiger I DMD T-03 & MF-01 setup problem
Pzjr is right. Flashing orange lights on the DMD usually mean there is no incoming signal from the receiver.
Posted on: 9/5/2012 7:21 AM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11218211

RE: first rc
Of the two, IMHO the Tiger is better. Less complex, and more reliable. The most room in the hull of any Tamiya...room enough for 2 batteries. Try your local hobby shop for a Tamiya Tiger. Phil at RC Tank Wars doesn't deal in Tamiya.
Posted on: 8/31/2012 2:49 PM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11212894

Cool Tank Movie for Walker Bulldog Fans
Just watched this on Netflix (on my internet streaming account). "TANK BATTALION" A 1958 movie that has some nice Walker bulldog footage. No opinion on the political correctness or the drama. I fast forwarded to get back to the tank action shots. Just an FYI for those who might not know about it.
Posted on: 8/27/2012 9:38 AM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "War Room"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11207703

RE: Spektrum dx5e help!
<![if gte mso 9]> <![endif]><![if gte mso 9]> <![endif]><![if gte mso 10]><![endif]> I've got a few ideas. First, I think you've eliminated battery problems. Low voltage in a Tamiya DMD/MF system causesthe DMD to cut off intermittently. In such a case, everything would die, and then the tank would perform a restart. This process repeats over and over. You've obviously got right track power, so I'd suggest looking elsewhere. When I have a problem with a tank(and know I've got good power), I always try to isolate whether it is a tank problem or radio problem. To check for a radio problem, I use a 4.8v receiver battery (local hobby shops sell them for fairly cheap) and a spare servo (Local hobby shop...again). I remove the receiver from the tank (I disconnect everything from the rx) and then plug the battery into the rx's "batt" terminal. Next, I plug in the servo to each channel on the rx (one at a time, checking each for operation). If all channels respond to the check, I pronounce the radio and rx good, and reinstall it in the tank. I move on to the tank as the source of problems. To begin checking the tank, double check the motor wiring. This would be the wires from the DMD to the motors. Refer to your Panther instruction manual at page 15. Double check the right and left motor connections. If all is well, put the tank up on a safety block on the bench to prepare for a test run. Next, open the tank, and run test the tank. Try the right turn. Observe what color the DMD lights are at the moment the malfunction occurs. Refer to your Panther operation manual (the little book that came with the tank) and look at pages 17-19 to see if you can find the corresponding error code and the meaning. If this fails, then I would perform a reprogram of the DMD Check the Panther assembly manual at the top of page14 for the instructions to see how to do one. Note, that you can also adjust the direction of the tank's drive (a.k.a.the yaw rate) with a small pot on the DMD (marked "rudd") located on the DMD's upper left side, right between the "set" and "MGun"adjustment pots. Inconsistent speed (right vs. left) track can be trimmed out using the "Rudd" pot on the DMD, trimmed using your TX trim tab, adjusted manually (usually caused by a bind in the drive train), or in some instances, it can be motor timing. IMHO, it is usually a mechanical binding issue. I adjust them by disconnecting the motor from the TU, and spinning the track manually to feel for the resistance. I spin each side, feeling for a difference in resistance. Usually, it is something as simple as too little gear lash between the motor pinion and the TU. If it still doesn't turn correctly, I would change out the DMD with a spare (only if you have one), or by borrowing a DMD from another tank (again, only if you have one). If all has failed, you may have a defective DMD T-03 unit and contact the manufacturer by email for further instructions and assistance. Good luck!
Posted on: 8/26/2012 2:06 PM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11206701

RE: Plug for Mato Mart
[quote]As for the law in Ontario with regard to prodact warranty, If the terms of warranty if not clearly posted is Caveat emptor. Or for the non latin Buyer Beware.[/quote] Not so with new products. According to the SALE OF GOODS ACT (R.S.O. 1990) it would appear that new goods sold in Ontario come with an implied condition (a.k.a. warranty) that the good must be of merchantable quality at the time of sale ("merchantable quality" usually means that it works like you thought it would when you get it...) Of course, there can be exclusions and waivers. Check with your local laws to be sure. But, "caveat emptor" is not necessarily applicable here. That's probably why the vendor is so helpful with returns and customer assistance.
Posted on: 8/23/2012 12:24 PM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203636

RE: Plug for Mato Mart
Double post OOPS!
Posted on: 8/23/2012 12:20 PM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203631

RE: Replacement for old Futaba Skysport 4 t4vf ??
On 2.4ghz systems (I can only speak of the Spektrum based on my first hand experience), you have to bind the rx to the tx prior to use. Takes about 30 seconds. I speculate that something similar must be done to all 2.4 systems. But the bit of trouble is certainly worth not having to mess around with glitching or frequency issues.
Posted on: 8/17/2012 8:56 AM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11196846

RE: Replacement for old Futaba Skysport 4 t4vf ??
I'd go with something 2.4 ghz. which has just about replaced everything else. Myself, I really like Spektrum radios. I use a DX8, DX7, DX6I, DX6, and DX5E. They all work well. You can go with a Futaba 2.4 ghz too. Most of them have model memory, which is nice if you have several tanks (or plan to). You can run every tank from one radio. Just depends on whether you are a "JR" person or a "Futaba". Get what you like, just make sure it is 2.4ghz. .
Posted on: 8/16/2012 8:17 AM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195715

RE: How big could we make a Tank company? Just wondering.
That would be the one on the far right. The best looking of the bunch too.[8D]
Posted on: 8/6/2012 10:39 PM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11183810

RE: Tamiya king tiger running prob's
I agree with ausF. You need to verify your receiver first as it likely is the problem. You can function check it as ausF has described, or simply remove it completely, plug in a 4.8v battery pack to the "batt" terminal, and then try plugging a spare servo into each channel, one at a time. If it is a tank problem, it would be the DMD that controls the drive functions.
Posted on: 8/1/2012 7:56 AM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11177150

RE: Radio.. mode 1 or 2?
Here's the 4 modes explained. Mode 2 is by far the most popular and used by airplanes. Mode 1 is normally used for helicopters. Regardless, you can easily change the modes (between Mode 1 and 2) on a DX6i if needed. However; you can much more easily change the plugs around as user "ausf" suggests. As to the self centering left stick on a Spektrum DX6i, if you order a new DX6i from Horizon Hobby, they'll install a cam and spring on the throttle channel upon request. (i.e. there was no extra charge last I had it performed). They do not sell the parts though. Their warranty is top notch too.
Posted on: 6/28/2012 2:34 PM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11135497

RE: Anyone still making gear reductions?
The only ones I know of (and have used) are the 3:1 geardowns or the 8 tooth pinions discussed on RCU here Years ago, there were some nice geardowns for the Type 1s available under the name "Applied Effects" which were a simple bolt-on affair. I bought a used tank that has a set, and they work well. They aren't available any more to my knowledge.
Posted on: 6/4/2012 4:33 PM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11106419

RE: What product do you use for the final dull coat?
I'll limit my comments to what I've actually used. Firstly, I find that rattle cans suit my needs best for applying the dull finish, as I don't like getting out the airbrush after the paint dries. So...I like rattle cans for the dull coat. I've tried Rust-oleum "frosted glass", and found it didn't work so well . It left an unwanted white sheen on my tanks, no matter how light the coat...especially the darker colors like dark green or olive drab. I've tried Army Painter anti-shine matte varnish (rattle can), which has nearly zero gloss. It was beautiful, BUT the varnish formulation apparently has the nasty habit of dissolving water slide decals. I keep coming back to time and again to Testor's Dull Kote. It's a bit too much gloss for my liking, but it dulls with age. It comes in a small sized rattle can, but is handy and reliable and works with decals.
Posted on: 5/30/2012 10:03 AM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11100015

RE: Tamiya Gear Bags back in stock at Tamiya
Sorry guys, false alarm. I got the auto email notification from Tamiya on this. I have been waiting for a set of Leo 2 drive shafts for some time, so I was quite excited to see this. This is the Leo 2 bag that has the drive shafts in it and not the spare baggie of gears as I thought. My bad.
Posted on: 5/9/2012 9:24 AM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11074388

Tamiya Gear Bags back in stock at Tamiya
FYI, the gear bag is back in stock with Tamiya USA. This is the bag full of spare transmission gears that went out of stock about 2 years ago. Tamiya Item #9400126 - RC Gear Shaft Bag
Posted on: 5/8/2012 8:28 PM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11073719

RE: Leopard 2A6 Radio Problem
[quote]Nah, the Link this word and every other one like it in our forum to YOUR Website! lights can be cycled via the radio as well. [/quote] True, but the OP hasn't said that he was manipulating the left trim tab and stick to make the lights go on, or pushing any buttons on the DMD to make the lights come on. Either way, the lights shouldn't be coming on. I still would recommend to the OP, check your battery, check your connections. Then as a last resort, send in the DMD to Tamiya for them to check.
Posted on: 5/8/2012 11:00 AM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11073146

RE: Leopard 2A6 Radio Problem
[quote]If you got all the paperwork that comes with the tank kit[/quote] Can be had for free here from Tamiya. "Paperwork" is the Assembly manual, Parts list, and Operation manual (Operation manual is a hyperlink at the bottom of the page).
Posted on: 5/8/2012 10:54 AM by Author "Jeff489" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11073136