RE: 50CC REVOLVER!!
+1 on that. I have a Reactor, which is a great flying plane, and I'm guessing this one could be, too. If someone gets one, please post a flight report.
Posted on: 9/18/2012 6:45 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232922

RE: Telemaster 150
Is the 150 the same as the 12' kit? If so, I think I have a PDF of the instructions. PM me an e mail address if you'd like.
Posted on: 9/12/2012 10:43 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11226893

RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help
Since I last posted, the lengths of jury strut I ordered arrived. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster200.jpg[/img] I'm sure they will be heavier than the built up wooden ones, but they will give me peace of mind. The gap in the middle for attachment point is 1/8". I think I'll use the 1/16 x 1/2 brass strips that came with the kit, and double them with 3/4 x 1/16 aluminum strip stock. Here's the main gear, cleaned with sandpaper and alcohol, and wrapped in steel safety wire. Ready for flux and silver solder. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster201.jpg[/img] Engine fits onto the holes I drilled in the firewall. Sanded a piece of ply to a taper to give me 3 degrees. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster202.jpg[/img] You can see the firewall does have a couple degrees of down designed into it. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster203.jpg[/img] Landing gear now soldered together, and I put the wheels on so I could set the fuse in the driveway to square up the wing to mark locations for holes in the wing mount plates. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster204.jpg[/img] Set the wing on and got it square, and centers marked for the wing mount plate holes. Couldn't help but mock the thing up... [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster206.jpg[/img] Then I pulled the engine and landing gear off to set the fuse on it's side. Currently working on gluing the cheek pieces on, plus the diagonal braces over the rear float mount plate...
Posted on: 9/12/2012 8:32 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11226832

RE: Sig Rascal 110
Looks like it flies about like mine (same power), except I wouldn't have had the guts to maiden in that wind. Takes a while to do a roll, doesn't it.
Posted on: 9/11/2012 5:39 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225565

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
If you did that, wouldn't you also need something to filter rf noise on the power side to protect the rx?
Posted on: 9/8/2012 11:48 AM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11221898

RE: Battery choice
Several places sell this 4 bank charger, rebranded. It is only 50 watts, so it wouldn't charge packs for giant scale. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10327__HobbyKing_Quattro_4x6S_Lithium_Polymer_Multi_Charger.html For smaller planes it is really handy to charge more than one at a time. It is also very handy for fuel planes. You could charge two Li-Fe rx packs while charging a nmh ignition battery and a nicad glow driver, for example HK's nanotech batteries are pretty light for their capacity, and reasonably priced. You might try the same capacity (mah) at a higher discharge rating (higher c rating). I would get battery connectors from a LHS or Tower or Horizon, though. A lipo voltage alarm is also nice for electrics. Basically it plugs into the balance plug, and beeps loudly when any cell drops below a voltage you set. Better than using a timer, because sometimes you fly gently, and sometimes you hammer it a lot. With a beeper, you can land the plane consistently with about 20% battery left, which seems to help them past longer.
Posted on: 9/8/2012 11:43 AM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11221889

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Regarding the IBEC, I really like that bugger, and I just ordered a couple more. It is really nice not to have to deal with charging a nicad ignition battery. I'm running dual Li Fe's on a Specktrum power safe reciever, which seems like a nice simple combination. As far as fail safe goes, I've got the throttle set to kill the engine in the event of signal loss. The IBEC I have set on a knob so I have a way to kill the ignition for priming the engine, or if the throttle servo or linkage were ever to fail. I prefer to assign the ignition to a knob, or trainer button, so it would be tough to accidentally kill the engine. Naturally, if the Rx ever lost power (unlikely with redundant isolated batteries and a fail-on switch) the ignition power would also be cut.
Posted on: 9/7/2012 1:18 AM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220420

RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help
Well, I had jury duty today, but the case settled so I got a bit done. I clamped up the tail, and got it aligned straight with the fuse to mark the longerons for where the tail mounts go. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster190.jpg[/img] Plans call for 2 hardwood pieces below the upper longeron, fill between the longerons with balsa, then screw the tail mount pieces down to that. I wasn't too keen on the two wood screws being the only thing holding the tail mount to the fuse, so I cut pieces of 1/2" ply to fit between the longerons. The pieces of 1/4 in hardwood they supplied to fit under the longerons weren't quite long enough to be flush with the sides, so I made ones out of 1/4 ply. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster191.jpg[/img] Here are those pieces getting epoxy. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster193.jpg[/img] This way the tail mounts will be retained by epoxy to ply... plus the screws. While I was messing with epoxy, I added the pieces that go under the wing mount plates and extend under the longerons. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster192.jpg?t=1346906057[/img] Once the epoxy set on the structure to retain the tail mount, I drilled pilot holes and installed the tail mounts... I put the tail back in place to confirm alignment before the epoxy set up, and marked it for screw holes. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster194.jpg[/img] Those chisel point drill bits sure make perfect holes. The fill pieces cut for the sides of the fuse earlier get notched to fit around the ply pieces under the longerons. Once some sheeting goes in ahead and behind the tail mount, the side pieces get glued in. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster195.jpg[/img] I then decided to get the firewall drilled. I made a template from a scrap of ply, and drilled holes for the mount bolts, throttle linkage, fuel line, ignition trigger wire, and spark plug wire. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster196.jpg[/img] I thought I'd get the landing gear out of the way. Tail wheel is pretty simple. The suspension action of this type isn't the greatest, but I like the way they steer. I also decided to use a brass bushing. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster197.jpg[/img] I put in the clips to retain the main gear, and it's rearward support. Not pictured is a 1/8 wire that spans between them. It, and a J hook later get rubber banded together to provide suspension. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster198.jpg[/img] I also picked up engine mounting hardware, and some copper high temp sealer. Got the pitts muffler mounted, along with throttle arm extension. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster199.jpg[/img] Next up will be finishing the main gear and mounting the wheels, putting the wing on and getting it aligned to drill, blind nut, and tap the wing mount plates, and servo mounts for the throttle and for the tail. Now that I can mount the tail to the fuse, I'll be able to see if mounting the rudder servo in the tail as I had planned can be done without the servo arm hitting the side of the fuse.
Posted on: 9/5/2012 10:13 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11219124

RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help
Thanks for the replies. I seem to have developed a flying style where I always use the rudder, so hopefully I'll do ok on it. My other 50cc size plane is a Reactor that is 0/0 and it flies great, but it seems to me torque on take off seems to effect high wing planes more? The other large high wing I have is a 110" Rascal with Syssa 30. It's an ARF, and it looks to have about 6 degrees right thrust built into it. Anyway, I think I'll give 3 degrees a try. In any event, I suspect if you roll onto the throttle smoothly, if it does tend to pull left it won't be so abrupt you can't compensate. The building table is 4' x 8'. I got a pair of flat hollow core doors that had been hinged in the middle from a building material recycling store. They are joined below by being screwed to some extruded aluminum angle. The legs are collapsing saw horses from Harbor Freight (they are really nice, and don't wobble on uneven surfaces. The top surface is a 1/2" sheet of pink foam insulation from Home Depot, put on with 3M spray glue. The foam comes with a plastic membrane on one side, which needs to go on the bottom to keep the spray glue from eating the foam. It could be a bit more solid, but holds pins OK. Mainly I use it because it is cheap, and easy to rip off and replace.
Posted on: 9/5/2012 9:28 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11219096

RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help
The next steps will be to epoxy some ply below the wing mount plates. The wing mount plates are glued between the longerons, and the pieces to go in are wider and fit under the longerons. I will probably add a similar arrangement to the rear float mount plate, and to the strut mount plate. For the struts, I've ordered a couple pieces of airfoiled aluminum jury struts from this aircraft part dealer http://carlsonaircraft.com/struts.html I thought I'd get the firewall marked and drilled for the engine before the cheeks are installed. I think I'm gonna go with 3 degrees right thrust, unless someone convinces me otherwise. Firewall to thrust plate of the engine is 6 3/4". It looks like about 3/8" offset at the firewall will keep the crank shaft on center, and a little over 1/8" of shim will give me that. Would anyone care to check my geometry?
Posted on: 9/4/2012 8:50 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11217825

RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help
The only problem I've ever heard of someone having with the fuse on one of these was someone who posted about the mount plate for the struts coming off. I would think either very high negative loads from a hard landing, or a poor glue joint would have to be involved. Anyhoo... Here's a shot of the same area of the plans that came with mine. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster182.jpg[/img] Back to building. Here's one of the longeron caps going in, between the strut mount plate and the rear float mount plate. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster183.jpg[/img] Putting the 1" wide strips on to the rear of that concerned me, as they would have to flex quite a bit to match the shape of the fuse. Took quite a few clamps and a couple pins, working from front to back, but otherwise it wasn't as difficult as I first thought. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster184.jpg[/img] Clampity clamp clamp clamp.... I also installed a 1/4 x 1/2 piece flat behind the cross piece below the trailing edge of the wing, to support the top cap pieces. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster185.jpg[/img] Once that all gets set up, it is time to unpin the fuse from the board. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster186.jpg[/img] Here, another piece of 1/4 x 1/2 goes on top of the previously mentioned piece, for the top caps to butt against. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster187.jpg[/img] As was done on the bottom of the fuse, the center piece goes on the top. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster188.jpg[/img] Lots of clamps again, and the top longeron caps go on. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster189.jpg[/img]
Posted on: 9/4/2012 8:37 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11217814

RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help
Here's a few more pics. Working back on the fuse installing the cross pieces. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster174.jpg[/img] Once that set up, cross pieces farther back go in. The sides of the fuse were previously beveled for where they join together at the end. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster175.jpg[/img] Then 1/4" sheeting goes on between the strut mount plate and the landing gear plate, and from the landing gear mount plate forward to the firewall. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster176.jpg[/img] I cut a larger ply plate for the landing gear mount, than the hardwood piece the plans call for. Floats apparently tend to make the vert stab less effective, so I want to have room to mount a skeg if it turns out to be needed. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster177.jpg[/img] Then I built a hard point to serve as a rear float mount, in a similar style to the main gear hard point. The edge sticking out is to support the center and longeron caps. On the main gear, they have you glue a piece of balsa to the back of the mount plate, and I thought this would be easier and more secure. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster178.jpg[/img] The rear float mount point getting glued behind F-6. I will later add diagonal supports between the bottom and center longerons, as was done for the strut mount plate. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster179.jpg[/img] Here's the center 1/2" wide cap going on. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster180-1.jpg[/img] Work then got in the way. 1" wide caps will next go on over the longerons.
Posted on: 9/3/2012 5:23 AM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11215419

RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help
Looking at your photo again, it looks like on yours the plans called for the cross bracing to be laid flat and morticed into the longeron? On mine, it calls for the cross braces to be vertical, glued to the risers and the longerons. A 1"x1/8" cap gets put across the top of the longerons and would help tie the cross braces in.
Posted on: 9/2/2012 10:35 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11215254

RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help
That's totally different than the plans and directions that came with my kit. I also didn't care for only a glue joint on the edge of the risers securing the joint to the longerons, which is why I added triangle stock to each of them. Anyway, thanks much for the reply and photo.
Posted on: 9/2/2012 9:33 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11215215

RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help
Thanks! I was wondering if anyone was reading this, and I appreciate your posting. I got a little more done. Epoxy and lots of clamps to install the firewall. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster170.jpg[/img] [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster169.jpg[/img] Once that was set, wood glue is used to install the cross pieces from F6 forward. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster171.jpg[/img] Using squares to make sure things stay straight and true. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster172.jpg[/img] Once that gets set up, more epoxy and it is time to put in the main gear mount, the mount plate for the struts, and the mounts for the wing. Though the plans don't call for it, I also used epoxy to put some triangle stock behind the firewall. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster173.jpg[/img] Next up will be the rest of the cross pieces. I think I will do about 3 degrees of right thrust for the engine, by sanding some hardwood into a wedge shape. The other mod I need to do is a hard point for a rear float mount. I also plan to anchor the strut mount plate a bit more solidly to the longerons than what the plan shows. I'm thinking like a 1" wide strip of 1/4 ply on both sides, to bring the mount plate up to the level of the top of the longeron, then a 1 1/4 wide strip to go over the top of the longeron- kind of like they have you do for the wing mount plates. I'm just concerned about what a high negative load would do, with the strut mount plate only glued to the bottom 1/4 inch of the longeron...
Posted on: 8/29/2012 9:49 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211156

RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help
Here is finishing up the other side of the fuse. Working upside down over the plan is a pain in the rear, setting the risers on the plan, and putting the longerons on top. I really wish they would have included two side views of the fuse in the plans. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster166.jpg[/img] After that set up, I installed the fill pieces behind where the firewall goes, and did some rough sanding. Then I cut the cross braces. It comes with 4 pre-cut ply cross braces for around the cabin. F-6 and forward the cross braces are 1/4 x 1/2 balsa the same length. Finally, it was time to pin the fuse sides to the plan and epoxy in the ply cross braces. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster167.jpg[/img] [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster168.jpg[/img] Next to go on, once this sets, will be the firewall. Then the cross braces from F6 forward. Two things I've been thinking about. The plans don't specify any right thrust, and the firewall has only down thrust built in. I was thinking about going 3 degrees right thrust? Need to figure that out, as it will determine where I drill the mount holes in order to keep the prop hub on the center line. I also need to install a rear mount for float gear. I presume slightly behind the trailing edge? I was going to use 1/4" ply in two layers, as is done for the main gear mount...
Posted on: 8/23/2012 6:46 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203997

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I run nothing but eth free gas. Fortunately here super can be sold non-contaminated. If I had to, I'd see about aviation fuel, at least for my 2 strokes.
Posted on: 8/18/2012 8:23 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198294

RE: DLE-20 Ignition Module Bad ???
I've had a string of that kind of luck. This hobby can try your patience at times. Hopefully with a new module you will have a sweet plane that will give you many hours of fun.
Posted on: 8/18/2012 8:18 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198289

RE: DLE-20 Ignition Module Bad ???
Might also check the rubber insulator in the boot. It is easy to damage, and if cracked it will arc to the outer metal housing instead of arc through the plug's gap.
Posted on: 8/18/2012 5:35 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198193

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Sorry. I did change out the plug. Btw, is anyone else getting a dead link in the e-mail that there is a new reply to this thread?
Posted on: 8/17/2012 9:20 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11197483

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Well, I cranked it over for a while and the compression seemed to come back. Couldn't get it to pop and didn't seem to draw fuel. I pulled the plug, and it looked good- nice color. I spun it with an electric starter with the plug out and choke on and it pulled fuel. Eventually got it to sputter repeatedly. It would starve out and not pop until choked again. Opened up the low needle and got it running. Doesn't seem to respond normally to mixture changes as it should. I'm familiar with gas two strokes, but pretty new to gas airplanes. If I had to guess, I'd suspect high speed check valve, but I think I'll have an experienced gas rc guy try tuning it. Puzzled that it now has good strong compression... Holistic engine healing crystals?
Posted on: 8/17/2012 8:52 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11197464

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I didn't think the plug would cause loss of compression, but I was thinking of pulling it anyway to see what it looks like. I have several plugs, so there'd be nothing to loose to try it. It is like 104 out right now, and I can't imagine what it is in my trailer, but I think I'll go play with it.
Posted on: 8/17/2012 7:01 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11197390

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Well, I thought I had my engine running well, but I think I'm going to have to send it back in again. Fired up the Rascal yesterday, actually got it to start by hand. I had put a new plug in it, and it looked like it had been running rich. Flew it, it burbled a bit on transition which it hasnt done befor and later quit. Got landed and restarted fine. Set the needles and it was indeed rich. Got the low set to where it would accelerate smoothly and checked the high. Seeing about 7,800 an 1/8 turn rich from peak. Went to idle back down and it quit. No compression on trying to restart.
Posted on: 8/16/2012 6:05 AM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195592

RE: repairing foam fuse??
If it is that big of an area maybe you could cut a piece of foam to fit. Epoxy is generally safe for foam, and great where you need some working time. Gorilla glue expands, which can be handy for oddly shaped crunched foam. Hot glue really bonds well to foam, and is great for fast, strong repairs. I also sometimes use foam safe CA for quick repairs in the field, but for something like a firewall or other large part I would use hot glue- or if I needed working time to get things lined up, epoxy.
Posted on: 8/13/2012 6:36 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11192348

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
[quote]ORIGINAL: JohnB96041 [quote]ORIGINAL: Joystick TX John - I would not grind off the tab, it holds one end of the choke in place when it is closed. [/quote] Is there a better way to hold the choke on since it is spring loaded. I have a nyrod going streight down through the cowl, but have to hold it down while trying to rock the prop for the prime. I would reather have a choke that is lockted in the closed position until the engine pops, then turn off the choke to continue flipping for the start. Any suggestions to make this step easier? [/quote] I used a flex rod on mine, too. I ran it through a short piece of fuel hose, which is secured at the bottom of the firewall with one of those nylon clips. A couple wraps of safety wire are around the bit of fuel tube that protrudes, which I tightened until I had enough drag to hold the choke on.
Posted on: 8/12/2012 5:33 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11190849

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
The problem I was having was a crack in the rubber boot, that the spark was arching through.
Posted on: 8/11/2012 6:18 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189805

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Vibration can make an engine run bad. I'd also look at the rubber boot in the spark plug wire. That sure made mine run weird.
Posted on: 8/11/2012 5:07 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189739

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I was going to say I'd consider just running it and seeing if it comes loose, but if you are like me I'd have a compulaion to pull it off and bend the tabs.
Posted on: 8/7/2012 9:04 AM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11184286

RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help
For the other side, the directions says to place the risers on the plan and use squares to locate the longerons on top of them, basically building it upside down on the plan to make the opposite side. Though the bottom longeron held it's curve somewhat from being laminated on the plan, I couldn't see how a person could hold it to the curve shown on the plan if it is 1/2 inch off of the board while you are trying to glue things together. I figured it would be easier to glue up the longerons to the fill pieces first, so there will be something to hold things into alignment, then I'll lift it off the table and put in the risers. It was tough to fit the 1/2" sheeting behind the firewall, without being able to trace the opening onto the wood, but I figured it was worth it to have that to hold the bottom longeron in the correct curve. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster164.jpg[/img] I think I'll pin some scraps over the longerons when I pull it off the plan, to help make sure they stay in their exact position. The longerons are all cut, waiting for glue to cure before this side gets lifted off the plan. In the mean time, I have glued some of the ply parts together in preparation of joining the sides. The piece on the left is the main gear mount. The bottom pieces are the width of the fuse, and the upper piece fits between the longerons, with a 1/4 in gap in the bottom pieces to accommodate the wire gear. The piece in the center is the attach point for the struts, and the rear brace wire for the main gear. Again, the upper piece fits between the longerons. On the right of that is the firewall. The center longeron passes through to the front of the cheeks, and 1/2" sheeting goes ahead of that, with 1/4 sheeting inside of that. Really interlocks the firewall to the fuse. On top are 1/4" pieces of ply that get laminated together to form 1/2" thick blocks into which the center section of the wing bolts. The other four 1/4" ply pieces are the cross braces of the cabin area. The rest of the cross braces are 1/4 x 1/2 balsa. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster165.jpg[/img] The 1/2" ply pieces that the center section gets bolted to go between the longerons, and a 1/8" ply piece gets glued to those, that is the full width of the fuse (under the longeron). I am thinking of doing something similar to the ply piece that the struts attach to- making a ply piece the width of the fuse that goes over the bottom longeron. It seems to me with a high negative load (rough landing or whatever) it would be nice to have a little more strength to keep that piece from being ripped off the bottom of the fuse.... That's where I'm at for the night.
Posted on: 8/2/2012 10:27 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11179278

RE: 12' Telemaster- gonna need help
Mike, I think I might extend that rudder a bit. It would be easy to do, and the way the stock rudder is (1/8" strips) it would allow me to taper it better. Strange thing about this kit is they give you one side view of the fuse. They have you make the bottom longeron for the left side first, not gluing it to the end piece, but with the laminate layers staggered and the inner layer cut to the proper angle to fit the end piece. Then you remove that, and build the other side (gluing the bottom longeron to the end block). [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster161.jpg[/img] Note that the vertical risers are on the inside of the longerons, and there are fill pieces between the longerons on the forward risers only. Nothing meets anything at a square angle, so an angle gauge and the Micro Mark table saw get a workout. Here is one side, completed. The risers are only glued to the longerons by their edges, and the cross braces get glued in there. I decided to add triangle stock where each riser meets a longeron, figuring it would add quite a bit of strength for very little weight. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster162.jpg[/img] Here's a view of the outside of that fuse side. [img]http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af248/JeffinTD/telemaster163.jpg[/img]
Posted on: 8/2/2012 10:07 PM by Author "JeffinTD" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11179266