RE: RC Flying Site Issues Due To Li-Po Fires
No bs. If it's the site I know of, yup, it was shut down for the reason given.
Posted on: 8/8/2012 6:45 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186285

RE: Radio
Regardless of brand, RC radio's throttles stay put, they are not spring loaded.
Posted on: 8/30/2011 7:15 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10694261

RE: Futaba 9C Programming
See airplane faq #29 & 30 on this page. It has other tips for you as well. Programming an Ultra Stick is a common question. http://www.futaba-rc.com/faq/faq-9c.html
Posted on: 8/15/2011 7:56 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10672676

RE: Hitec Customer Support
I had a similar experience and others have told me about theirs. Hitec's service seems to be great, with a satisfied customer in mind.
Posted on: 5/9/2011 7:33 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10511135

RE: Charger says 5S when auto-detecting battery (battery is 6 cells though)
I'm not familiar with your charger but.... Need a little more info. Can you directly see that it has 6 cells (generally easy to see) or are you assuming from the capacity? 6V from a Nimh pack sounds more like 5 cells than six. A 6 cell pack at 6V is completely, totally dead. A charging 5 cell pack will go over 7V at some point but if it jumps right from 6V to 7V, just after starting, it's probably 6 cells. If it is actually 6 cells, manually charge for an hour or so, at a lower rate( 200-300 mA), then when the voltage is higher the charger will probably detect the proper number of cells. At 6V the charger is probably misreading the number of cells and it will take some manual charging at a low rate to bring the voltage up to the point where the charger will work properly. A 6 cell pack should start out at about 7V or just above, then rise from there, into the 8's. Cycle the pack two or three times afterwards to see if you're getting the proper capacity from the pack. If it's brand new, the first couple of charges should be at a low rate, around 300 mA.
Posted on: 4/29/2011 7:01 AM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10491209

RE: No string to pull servo wire through wing!
Tie a small washer or other small weight to some sewing thread or thin string. Hold the wing vertically, feed the weight from the servo pocket into the wing panel and slowly lower the weight, holding on to the other end of the thread. With a little fiddling it should make its way to the spot where the servo wire is supposed to exit the wing. Grab the weight with a pair of tweezers or forceps, pull it out of the wing and you have a new string to pull the servo wire with.
Posted on: 4/23/2011 2:14 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10480591

RE: ys f-120 help needed
YS parts & service... http://www.ysengines.net/
Posted on: 4/7/2011 10:24 AM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10449008

RE: how to fill
Multiple ways to do it. I have a "T" fitting, with several inches of line going to a fuel dot, in the line that carries fuel from the tank to the engine. Fuel goes into that one. I have another "T" fitting, with fuel line coming out, that's plugged, in the line between the one way valve and the tank. When I go to fill the tank fuel goes into the line running to the fuel carrying line. The "vent" side, must be unplugged for the air to escape from the tank as it is filled. When the tank is full, fuel will spill out of the "vent" line. The one way valve lets air from the engine, into the tank, but not the other way around. This pressurizes the tank. When going to refuel after a flight, remember to unplug the "vent" line first as it will release the pressure in the tank, before opening the fill line. If done the other way around, fuel will shoot out several feet, hitting everyone and everything. You can guess how I know this. The valve has a little arrow. The sharper point of the arrow points to the tank. See the manual... (It's a different engine, but the setup is the same.) http://www.ysengines.net/manuals-downloads/FZ110-YSP.pdf You can also run a three line tank, opening up the vent line before filling up from the third line.
Posted on: 3/5/2011 12:40 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10380758

RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
I am assembling a 50cc Aeroworks Ultimate with a DLE55. I'm trying to find the most effective way to muffle the engine. Suggestions have been your wraparound pitts with Snufflers or a canister. The cowl is 10" wide so it seems that fitting a canister would be a problem, though I'm told the canisters are generally quieter. Any suggestions on your part for your products?
Posted on: 1/17/2011 10:46 AM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "JTEC / RADIOWAVE Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10269808

RE: DL-50 engine
I have a new DLE55 that's going into an Aeroworks Ultimate. I have [u]very[/u] limited experience with gas, but several years with glow. The stock muffler I was going to toss as the few I've seen do very little muffling. A bisson wraparound pitts would probably work OK but I'm really looking for the quietest way to effectively muffle the engine, even if it costs some bucks. The Bisson, JTec and Slimline mufflers I've used for glow were a little on the loud side and I expect the same for gas. Does anyone have any suggestions for where to go and what to get?
Posted on: 1/14/2011 7:31 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10264328

RE: Balsarite vs Trim Cote
Balsarite is allowed to dry and doesn't get sticky until you're heating the covering with the iron or hot air. Trim solvent makes the covering instantly sticky. Trim solvent is usually used to apply small pieces of trim, hence the name. Balsarite can be used as protection against oil ( with multiple coats ) as well and is applied to the wood.
Posted on: 1/2/2011 1:05 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10234485

RE: Hitech Crystals on ebay!
Any FCC reg has the force of law. That doesn't mean that if you ignore it they're going to come after you and arrest you. If, however it is ignored by enough people that it becomes a problem for licensed users, then, as the government usually does, it solves a small problem with a large sledge hammer approach.
Posted on: 7/18/2010 4:38 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9872471

RE: New to hobby
Tower's website has some pics, video and the instruction manual. You might want to download the manual and familiarize yourself with it before getting the plane. Although it comes "Ready to Fly", in reality you will need to go over the plane to make sure all is done correctly. The hobby shop or a friend who flies glow can help. This will save you time and money in the end. As previously mentioned, look for an instructor. Hobbistar 60 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCSY9&P=ML Select... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGHD4**&P=7 Edit for link addition.
Posted on: 7/17/2010 1:45 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9870868

RE: Battery makers
RadicalRC, Dave Thacker has been doing this a long time and I believe will custom make a pack if one isn't listed. I've ordered many packs, all excellently made. http://www.radicalrc.com/category/Tx-Packs-NiMH-&-NiCd-20
Posted on: 7/11/2010 11:34 AM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9857653

RE: Help on ESC
The motor has three leads, the speed controller has three leads on one end, that attach, in any order. If the motor spins the wrong way, swap any two of the three leads. The other end of the speed controller has two leads for the power supply, probably colored red and black. Generally batteries (NiCd, NiMh or LiPo are used for power) A third lead will be there that has the ability to be plugged into a receiver. No receiver is necessary, plug it into this.... http://www.hobby-lobby.com/testequipment.htm?pSearchQueryId=614350 This brand is not the only one, I use it only for reference. This device, when power leads are hooked up, can be turned as a dial to throttle your motor. Although the device has a power input plug, none is necessary as the speed controller supplies power through the throttle lead. (Most do, the one shown does ) The type of speed controller you need is here... http://www.hobby-lobby.com/black_12_amp_brushless_controller_2821_prd1.htm?pSearchQueryId=614378 Again, this is not the only one, any brushless speed controller will work. Your setup, at least from the motor you've selected will use rather low voltage, 8-12V. RC'ers typically use LiPo's for such a setup, two or three cell. The speed controller and motor are sensitive to voltage (and current), so if you're going to use a power supply be aware and don't exceed the speed controller or motor limit which will be printed on it. It will only draw the current it needs and you should have no problem there. This motor, unloaded will be spinning very fast other than at VERY low throttle settings. Loaded, depending on load, it will draw more current.
Posted on: 5/1/2010 6:56 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9703005

RE: What a Great Deal i got on Ebay
If you haven't gotten them in hand or run them yet, I would wait to see how they run before coming to a conclusion. That will be the final determination as to what kind of deal you got.
Posted on: 4/6/2010 9:19 AM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9641068

RE: YS .63 Straight pipe (Flexible)
I believe the OS 70 and 91 have the same exhaust threads as the 63. OS makes flexible exhaust pipes, available from tower. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXE97&P=Z
Posted on: 4/3/2010 7:13 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9634966

RE: Are servo sizes standardized?
Unfortunately no. Although many servos are close, some very close, they're not all exactly the same. I don't know about the two specific servos you mentioned, but more than likely, to change servos and brands entails some mods for the mount. It's best to build for the servos you want, mount them then leave them for the life of the plane. If you later need to replace one, to exactly match the holes and sizing, the best way to guarantee the fit is to replace it with an identical servo. If necessary you can fill the servo screw holes with epoxy, then redrill for the new servo, if it fits in the servo cutout or rails. For Hitec and Futaba, if you go to www.servocity.com , they have diagrams showing dimensions and hole spacing, etc. At least that gives you info for those servos ahead of time. I have to assume somewhere, similar info is available for JR servos, then you can know for sure. Someone will probably post the JR info for you to look at. Edit for URL fix
Posted on: 3/23/2010 11:18 AM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9604958

RE: Why are A123 batteries not as popular as Lipo batteries??
With the coming apparent change in regulations for air shipping of batteries, I expect prices of LiPo's to increase. You'll probably see a move to more LiFe's as prices of other Lithium batteries go up. At the very least LiPo's will be more difficult to come by. See.. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9567160/tm.htm Edit for spelling.
Posted on: 3/16/2010 10:31 AM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9586520

RE: How Good Are the Magnum XL 52 4-Strokes?
Short answer - No. You would need something in the range of a 70 4-stroke to match the 46, and I think you'd be much happier with the 70 in a 6.5 lb plane.
Posted on: 1/13/2010 10:04 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9413896

RE: Reducing 72 Mhz Rx antenna size formular ?
No formula, just don't cross the antenna over itself, while wrapping. I've done that in a couple of smaller (20-25 size) planes and it's worked fine. Make sure to fully field test the radio setup with motor running. Electrics are more problem prone for reception.
Posted on: 1/10/2010 6:22 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9404686

RE: New USAF Drone/Lockheed Skunk Works
Northrop was in fact alive long enough to see plans and a model of the B2.
Posted on: 12/13/2009 9:05 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9328458

RE: DSLR combo for wife - Xmas gift
ChiefK had a good thought. If a fast telephoto lens is necessary, cameras one to three years old can be purchased for a fraction of their initial cost on the used market. Lots of people have the need to buy the latest and greatest toy, and dump their two year old camera to do it. However... and this is important, the camera body won't be expensive, but the lens will. Good fast lenses don't decline in price. A three year old fast telephoto lens will cost just about as much as a new one, if it's in good condition. In a way, you look at what you want to shoot, select a lens that will give you the shot(s) you want, then select a camera that the lens can use.
Posted on: 11/30/2009 6:49 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Digital Camera & Photo Editing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9293028

RE: DSLR combo for wife - Xmas gift
Lots of possibilities in that price range... Canon EOS Rebel T1i, Nikon D5000, Pentax K-x, and others (Olympus, Sony, Etc.) My preference is the Nikon, but that's just personal, you can't go wrong with the Canon, but remember, once you buy the body, you're buying into a line of lenses , and they will probably cost you much more than the body, over the life of the camera. Specs change monthly as new models come out. My D300 is, at one year old, already "ancient" but far more camera than I'll ever use. Combos usually include one lens, such as a 55mm, which won't help you much, or two lenses such as an 18-70 and a 70-200, and those may be of more use but a little more expensive. Kit lenses are generally ok, you need to decide how demanding the photography will be. See a retailer such as Beach Camera... www.beachcamera.com or others such as Amazon, etc. Be careful of "grey market" importers who import cameras intended for foreign markets and sell them for great prices, but with no USA warranty or missing some nice feature such as a battery. Look at the specs and choose the one that does what you want. Good usable DSLR's can be had with lens for $500 on up, so spend wisely. If you have $6000 Canon and Nikon both will gladly accept it. P.S. Just remembered the thought about wildlife photos...if it's action, moving birds, running animals, etc. you're going to need a long, fast lens and that means money money money. Nikon telephoto lenses can be $1000 to $2000 and other brands are similar. If it's stationary, such as a perched bird for something sitting still, cheaper long lenses will do and they're 1/4 to 1/2 of the price. $250 will buy you a half decent slower lens.
Posted on: 11/30/2009 2:36 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Digital Camera & Photo Editing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9292351

RE: How to field test 6 volt receiver packs?
Something in the neighborhood of a 15 to 20 ohm resistor with a standard voltmeter will work ok. I've even used a flashlight lightbulb in the past. You just want to create a current of 250 - 500 mA. The pack is normally at 6 to 7 volts. Remember, the bottom is 1.1 to 1.2 volts per cell, or about 6V minimum for a 5 cell pack. Below that and you're beginning to roll the dice. V=IR -> V/R = I P.S. The resistor will need to be rated for the wattage you're pulling. P=VI or 7 volts X 0.5 amp = 3.5 watt resistor. If you're on the borderline for the resistor wattage rating, it will be ok if you only use it for a few seconds at a time. As long as the resistor doesn't overheat from prolonged use, and this shouldn't happen for quick go/no go voltage checks.
Posted on: 11/23/2009 3:42 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9274972

RE: Neu motor question
Neumotors has a calculator that will allow you to see the amp draw, etc. on different motors and battery setups. You can find it here.... http://brantuas.com/ezcalc/neumotorscalc.asp The calculator shows that a 1515/2Y, geared at 4/1, on 10 cells and a Phoenix 85 controller draws just over 70 amps, has 2478 Watts in and 2445 Watts out, on an APC 16-10 for 94% efficiency. The prop is turning almost 9300 RPM. You need to make some guesses for some of the values, but the calculator is pretty good at letting you know what works and what doesn't.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 8:01 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266161

RE: YS 91 AC and Muffler Piping options- Please help...
Try Performance Specialties... http://www.pspec.com/results.asp?category=4 P.S. They have direct replacement and their own. Their own headers are not threaded the same as the YS, I think, you'd need to call or email them to make sure.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 5:18 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9255748

RE: 8s Charge Setup
The balance plug from one pack would be plugged into the balance port on the charger, the other packs balance plug would be plugged into the blinky, while charging both connected in series. Each pack would be balanced while charging. If you don't have multiple chargers, this is the most straightforward way I know of to do it, if you want to balance while charging.
Posted on: 11/3/2009 1:22 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9225258

RE: 8s Charge Setup
Yup, that's it. Although Tower is usually very competitive pricewise, I've gotten my 2 blinkys for $25 or less (One for LIPO's and one for A123's). If you have a local hobby shop that you frequent, they might get it for you for less than $30. Edit for addition..
Posted on: 11/1/2009 10:31 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9221479

RE: 8s Charge Setup
Purchase an inexpensive Blinky balancer or equivalent, plug one pack's balance lead into the charger, the other's into the Blinky then go ahead and charge them in series.
Posted on: 11/1/2009 4:56 PM by Author "Jim Schwagle" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9220651