RE: search engine
Doesn't work for me either.
Posted on: 11/4/2009 10:28 AM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9227457

RE: How to convert an ATX power supply to rc use
[quote]ORIGINAL: wantboost why do u need to add a resistor? [/quote] [url=http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.batts/ps/TheFIX_java_table.htm]This page[/url] will answer that question. :) Credit to "the other Andrew." [:D]
Posted on: 11/1/2009 11:20 AM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9219945

RE: Help with battery plugs
[quote]ORIGINAL: Barlingbomber Thanks. I think it makes sense. Like you said I'm a bit nervous about setting my house or myself on fire but I will study up as you suggest and see what I can do. One thing that confuses me is that the different LiPo brands/balance charging plugs seem to have different numbers of wires coming out of the battery even though they have the same number of cells. I guess the article will tell me how to handle that but it doesn't immediately seem like they are going to be compatible. But anyway if I can make it work that's the way I'll go, Thanks again, Phil [/quote] I agree, it's confusing. A general rule of thumb is that the balance tap needs one more wire than the number of cells. A 3S needs 4 wires, for instance. If there is more than "cell count + 1", some aren't used. All the packs I've wired have the extra wires next to the pack positive, which has always been red on the ones I've done. When all else fails, you can always put a volt meter on the various leads to identify which is which.
Posted on: 10/30/2009 7:27 AM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9214530

RE: Help with battery plugs
[quote]ORIGINAL: Barlingbomber Hi, Like the first poster I am just moving into Electric and LiPos. My first impression is that most battery makers should be lined up against the wall and shot!! Would it be too difficult for any 2 suppliers in our hobby to use the same kind of plugs. I bought a bunch of adapters with my LiPo Charger (FMA Direct Cellpro). The charger is great and easy to use but none of the adapters available will charge this new Tera Hobby Lipo I bought for my 3d Electric. The LiPo looks great and is 1300 mAh for a size you would normally get 950 or so but without a plug, its useless. The question is does anyone know where I can get something to adapt this plug to one of the more recognised plugs (Thunder Power, Align, Flightpower, etc) or failing that where i can get an Align plug (which is a 3 wire for 2 cells LiPo plug like the Tera Hobby one). Any help or advice would be most welcome as this LiPo is useless until I find a way to charge it and I don't want to buy a Tera Hobby charger just for one LiPo!! thanks guys in advance And remember, the fact that average guy is really dub means that half of them are even dumber!! [/quote] I can help with this one. :) I use CellPro chargers exclusively so I feel your pain. NOBODY (except FMA) uses the CellPro balance tap, so you either have to buy a buttload of adapters or do what I started doing. Buy a box full of these: [img]https://www.tanicpacks.com/images//cp-10S-node.gif[/img] [url=https://www.tanicpacks.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_165&products_id=871&osCsid=3d43591d29b7b4e0bc7c4a23d420ea74]Tanic Packs[/url] sells them for only $1.50 each and shipping, if I remember correctly, is only $2.00 This is much MUCH cheaper than getting them directly from FMA. Anyway, once you get them, use [url=http://www.fmadirect.com/support_docs/item_1213.pdf]this document[/url] from the FMA site to learn how to replace the factory installed balance tap with the one above. It's not too hard, it's not too expensive to do and it's way better than keeping track of adapters. Some folks aren't to comfortable cutting up the wires on their new lipos, but if you study up a bit, take your time and work carefully, the risk is minimal.
Posted on: 10/29/2009 10:46 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9213927

RE: How to convert an ATX power supply to rc use
Don't know nuttin' 'bout no Pamona jacks. :) This is all kinda new to me, so I consider myself fortunate to have you guys around. :) I finished up my conversion and powered up my 10S for a test run. I hooked up a pair of 3S 3700 packs and cranked the charge rate up to 3C. The voltage on the PSU never fell below 12.2 and the peak draw was around 20 amps. The fan in the PSU was on all the time but it's one of those ultra-quiet units so the only way I could tell it was on was by looking at it or putting my hand in front of it. I'm very pleased with how well it works. Thanks again to everyone who contributed to this thread. It's a great resource.
Posted on: 10/25/2009 8:49 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9201663

RE: How to convert an ATX power supply to rc use
[quote]ORIGINAL: Andrew Erik If you metered the voltage between the 5v rail and the 12v, it would read ~7v. The reason you can get 17v with -5v and +12 is because DC voltages are measured both by voltage differential and by which pole is considered to be ''more positive''. For negative voltages, DC ground could be thought of as being ''more positive'' and the voltage differential between -5v and ground is 5 volts. The diffenential between ground and +12v is 12 volts, consequently the diffential between -5v and +12v will be ~17. If you drew out a number line and marked places for -5, 0, +5 and +12, then counted the units between each, the units between +5 and +12 is 7. The +12 is thought of as being ''more positive'' than +5 since it is further from the ground plane of 0 and when metered, you would use your negative probe on +5 and the positive probe on +12. It's a bit more complicated, but voltage is only the differential between two points, taking into account polarity. My inclination would be to initially use all 4 resistors is series for a total of 4 ohms. Adding load (reducing the resistance) when not needed only adds heat and consumes power from the PSU. Many of the newer PSUs will latch without a load, but will have a more stable output voltage on the 12v rail with a load. Your choice of resistance should be the highest ohm rating possible for good performance. If it powers your charger satisfactorily with 4 ohms, there is no gain in going any lower. Keep us posted on how your conversion works out. andrew [/quote] Andrew, thanks for the speedy reply. I follow your explanation of the differential between -5 and +12 yielding 17 volts. The isuue is there is no -5v wire (the white one) so I was just wondering if there was another way to accomplish the same thing. No matter, I'll just stick with the two 12 volt outputs, one tied to each 12 volt rail. Also, I'll follow your advice and wire the resistors in series for greater resistance. Thanks again, Erik
Posted on: 10/24/2009 5:02 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9198914

RE: How to convert an ATX power supply to rc use
I just bought mine two days ago. The part number is 274-718 and it looks like this: [img]http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2265157w345.jpg[/img] It still shows on their website. I wonder why your local store doesn't have it? You can probably find something similar at www.mouser.com . They have virtually anything electrical that you can imagine.
Posted on: 10/24/2009 11:29 AM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9198337

RE: How to convert an ATX power supply to rc use
Hello everyone, this is a great thread! This post is directed to Andrew (the other Andrew, that is! :) ), but anyone who cares to comment is more than welcome to do so. Andrew, first thanks for all the time you've invested documenting the ATX conversion process on the Murray State site and for helping so many people here as well. After spending a few hours over the course of several days going through this thread and all the data on the Murray State site, I think I'm just about ready to tackle my first conversion. Yesterday I went out and bought a brand new Antec EA-500D because I don't have an old PSU laying around and because I want a hefty, long-lasting unit. Anyway, tonight I opened the beast, clipped the plugs off and sorted all the wires by color. After reviewing everything, I have a couple of quesitons and was hoping you might be able to offer some guidance. First: As you probably know, this unit has two 12-volt rails. According to the specs, each one has a max output of 22 amps. I want to install two pair of binding posts so I can easily connect two chargers. Since there are two rails, it seems logical to run one rail to each of the posittive posts. Is there any problem with that or any reason why I wouldn't want to do it? Second: Back on 9/17/08, RichT asked: [b]"I am wondering if it will be possible / beneficial to rig up the -5v line as the negative and the +12v as the positive to get a net 17v output from the psu. Should I just stick with the healthy 17A 12v line or attempt this theoretical 17v line?"[/b] and you replied [b]"You will get 17 volts, but if you check the current rating of the -5v rail, it will likely be around 200 to 400 ma. - however, I suspect that it will not carry much of a load since the rail will overload very quickly. Stick with your 17A 12v line."[/b] And that makes perfect sense to me. However, the specs on my PSU state that there are two 5 volt rails (5V and 5Vsb). The "5V" rail has a rated max load of 24 amps. Given that, is there a problem with using RichT's idea on my PSU? I have a charger (CellPro 10S) that would be very happy with a 17 volt input. I should note that there is no white wire present in my PSU, so this might not be possible, but I figured it couldn't hurt to ask you anyway. :) [i]EDIT: I double checked and found that the 10S has a max input voltage of 16 volts, so my second question is now moot. [/i]:) Other than those two issues, I think I am ready to proceed. The PSU has it's own switch, so I'll connect the green wire to ground and use the existing switch to turn it on and off. There is a brown sense wire and an orange 3.3-volt wire terminated in postion 13 of the motherboard plug, so I will connect those two. Finally, I have four 1 ohm/10 watt wirewound resistors that I plan to wire in a 2S2P configuration across the 5 volt output. If I've done the math right, the net load will be one ohm disspating about 26.5 watts, with each resistor getting about 6.6 watts. I'll heatsink them all to the case so they should stay cool enough not to self destruct. If you have any thoughts or suggestions, I'd love to hear them. Thanks, Erik
Posted on: 10/24/2009 1:21 AM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9197494

RE: O.S 1.20AX Owners. Post your tach readings
[quote]ORIGINAL: MetallicaJunkie OS 120AX #2 ...Bisson Pitts muffluer 15% Hobby Town Fuel(Wildcat) 17x6 apc .peak 9060, 8700 steady and ready to fly i guess its about avg [/quote] What are you running it on? I actually went back to the stock muffler because I couldn't get used to the power delivery for 3D work. Power is less, but easier to manage.
Posted on: 10/14/2009 12:03 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Tachometer Readings"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9172579

RE: Show us your profile color scheme?
Some shots of my Slide 58. [IMG]http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g208/erikivy/slide%2058/S58-1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g208/erikivy/slide%2058/S58-7.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g208/erikivy/slide%2058/S58-3.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g208/erikivy/slide%2058/S58-8.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g208/erikivy/slide%2058/S58-5.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 9/24/2009 12:11 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Profile and Fun Flying Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9120421

RE: hinge help
And here is a short video with some good techniques for installing CA hinges. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCNjg5HkPFw
Posted on: 9/24/2009 11:39 AM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9120338

RE: Need specifics on the MoAss 60 removable wing option
I'm not thumbskull, but here is the link. http://www dot theprofilebrotherhood dot com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9898&highlight=mojo+plug+wing+build+thread You'll have to remove the spaces and replace "dot" with . RCU will not allow links to that site.
Posted on: 9/13/2009 10:37 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Profile and Fun Flying Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9093477

RE: O.S 1.20AX Owners. Post your tach readings
[quote]ORIGINAL: JustErik I finally got the opportunity to get some data on my 120 AX.  It's had about a gallon of 5% through it so far.  I'm still running the stock muffler with the baffle in place. It's been very reliable except for yesterday.  I had a couple of deadsticks and traced the problem to a cracked fuel line.  Anyway here are yesterdays results. Prop:  Xoar 16x6
Posted on: 9/11/2009 10:32 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Tachometer Readings"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9088295

RE: 55AX or Magnum 70 4 stroke for OMP Edge 540??
If those are your choices, I'd go with the AX. The Mag 70 is a tank and weight is important on a 3D bird. If you can get hold of a Saito 72/82, that's a different story. Its weight is not significantly different from the AX and its got a better rep than the Magnum. Just my thoughts....
Posted on: 9/7/2009 12:45 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9076152

RE: Is my 9CAP going to be a dinosaur?
It's already in dino-land. Package it up and send to me for proper disposal. :) Seriously though, my 9C is the best radio I've ever owned. As long as it's legal and in good working order, I'm in no rush to replace it. Heck, don't you love to see a '57 Chevy cruise by on a sunny Saturday afternoon? :) Nothing wrong with running a classic.
Posted on: 9/1/2009 3:20 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9062142

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: Old Fart [quote]ORIGINAL: JustErik I was lucky enough to get them both off without losing them. :) However, I think I'll use the bag idea when I reassemble them. Right now I'm using some Dawn Power Dissolver and q-tips to clean the valve seats in the head and the valves themselves. After a couple of applications, everything is cleaning up nicely. Thanks for all the help
Posted on: 7/13/2009 10:18 AM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8928729

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: w8ye I don't think it matters on the pin It does on the rod though [/quote] When will you know? [:D][;)] Just kidding! I couldn't see how it would matter either, but didn't want to make any stupid assumptions. Thanks for all your help.
Posted on: 7/12/2009 10:08 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8927704

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: w8ye did you undo the rod from the piston? [/quote] Yes, but before doing so I made note of the proper orientation of the piston in the sleeve. And I noted which side of the rod faces forward. The pin is what has me stumped.
Posted on: 7/12/2009 9:48 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8927647

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
One more question. One side of the wrist pin has a larger hole than the other. Does it matter which direction the pin faces when reassembling? I did't realize the ends were different until I pulled the teflon pads. By then, it was too late. :)
Posted on: 7/12/2009 9:27 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8927585

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I was lucky enough to get them both off without losing them. :) However, I think I'll use the bag idea when I reassemble them. Right now I'm using some Dawn Power Dissolver and q-tips to clean the valve seats in the head and the valves themselves. After a couple of applications, everything is cleaning up nicely. Thanks for all the help, guys.
Posted on: 7/12/2009 8:03 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8927371

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
So just leave the head alone? What about the valves themselves. Can I cook them in antifreeze overnight or perhaps hit them lightly with a scotchbrite pad? Or should I just leave them alone also? This is the first time I've had a 4-stroke this far apart and since it's this torn down, I figure I should do whatever needs to be done to ensure peak performance. Any hints or tips appreciated. :)
Posted on: 7/12/2009 1:55 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8926636

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
w8ye, thanks! That worked perfectly. Do I need to do anything to clean or resurface the valve's seating surfaces? And since I'm keeping the head as a back-up what about the mating surfaces in it?
Posted on: 7/12/2009 12:36 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8926517

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I know the answer must be in this thread somewhere, but 601 pages means the search is pretty useless, so here I am. :) I'm replacing the cylinder on mu 'hunnert and am preparing to pull the valves. I see the c-clip on top of each valve but am not sure how to remove it. Is there an easy way to pry it open just enough to slip it off? Is there anything else I need to be aware of before proceeding? Thanks!
Posted on: 7/12/2009 12:09 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8926475

RE: Schwans Profile Planes
[quote]ORIGINAL: jcubby Try this site http://www.swanyshouse.com/index.aspx [/quote] Yep, that's the place. :) You might also want to browse around www dot theprofilebrotherhood dot com. Lot of good information there to be had.
Posted on: 7/9/2009 12:58 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Profile and Fun Flying Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8919137

RE: total number of people involved in r/c hobby
I'm pretty sure it's 11. Yep, it's 11. You're welcome.
Posted on: 7/1/2009 4:16 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8898488

RE: First 3D Plane
Here's a video showing a bit of the MoJo's durability. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7AvY2j3rao All of the crashes in the beginning of the video did no damage whatsoever. I use Master Airscrew S-2 nylon props. They aren't the most efficient, but they sure can take a beating. I crash the MoJo routinely, and although I've had to make countless minor repairs, nothing has (as of yet) come close to grounding it. It really is one tough bird. PS - The HQ version on a full screen helps really see how hard the darn thing is hiting the dirt. :)
Posted on: 6/26/2009 10:22 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8884437

RE: O.S 1.20AX Owners. Post your tach readings
[quote]ORIGINAL: Mustang Fever Erik: I think that would be perfect for a 3D bird. A bit less load then a 16x8, so the engine will turn a little faster and run a bit easier, although fuel consumption might go up a bit. Thrust HP, which everyone hates but I find to be very accurate, indicates 18 pounds of thrust and around 50 mph at 8500 rpm. I've been running mine in a 1/7 Top Flite P-51 (kit) that weighs around 12 pounds. It turns a 15x10 APC at 8500 on the ground on 10% Wildcat. That prop seems perfect for the stang, which needs a lot of speed, and your 17x6 represents less load, so I'm sure it would be a good prop for you. [/quote] Wow, 18 pounds of thrust on my 7.5 pound Fusion sounds like loads of fun. :) I'll take it! Thanks for the details. Erik
Posted on: 6/23/2009 4:58 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Tachometer Readings"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8874758

RE: O.S 1.20AX Owners. Post your tach readings
I'm sure it's ready too, just haven't gotten around to changing it yet. :) I have a 17x6 that I planned to use. Think that will be alright?
Posted on: 6/23/2009 1:28 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Tachometer Readings"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8874254

RE: O.S 1.20AX Owners. Post your tach readings
I finally got the opportunity to get some data on my 120 AX. It's had about a gallon of 5% through it so far. I'm still running the stock muffler with the baffle in place. It's been very reliable except for yesterday. I had a couple of deadsticks and traced the problem to a cracked fuel line. Anyway here are yesterdays results. Prop: Xoar 16x6 (still using break-in prop) Fuel: Coopers 5% Plug: OS #8 (I think; it's the one supplied with the engine) Temp: About 80 degrees F Humidity: Sticky ( probably 75% to 80%) RPM: 9,742 peaked (love that new TNC tach!) 9,400 or so ready to fly
Posted on: 6/23/2009 1:23 PM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Tachometer Readings"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8874237

RE: Unusual Saito 125 problem
Is it possible the o-ring at the top of the intake tube is leaking? I had a 'hunnert that started doing what you described and found that the o-ring was rather frayed and tattered. Replacing it solved the problem.
Posted on: 6/12/2009 11:23 AM by Author "JustErik" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8846686