RE: *Rascal 110 Fly-In Evansville IN*
Yes Zippi, I've got it dialed in pretty good. Increased my throws to max with some new control horns. She rolls very good now, engine runs great and installed a FPV camera inside the cockpit. I'm ready to go.
Posted on: 8/13/2012 7:49 PM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "Events, Shows and Fun Fly's - Airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11192424

RE: *Rascal 110 Fly-In Evansville IN*
I'll be putting a 26cc gas engine. I had one setting around needing a plane and the Rascal looks real nice. Just got my FedEx shipping notice, should be here Wednesday. Chris
Posted on: 5/14/2012 3:11 PM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "Events, Shows and Fun Fly's - Airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11080657

RE: *Rascal 110 Fly-In Evansville IN*
Ordered my Rascal 110 ARF today. Hopefully have it ready before the fun fly in July.
Posted on: 5/13/2012 5:33 PM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "Events, Shows and Fun Fly's - Airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11079598

RE: Nitroplanes Giant 1/3 Scale Cub
Well, it's here! And Undamaged. Pretty much everything the same as in your kit except there was no manual. I have built many planes and I'm sure I can figure this one out without any instructions. I am needing some help on the CG. Tom, what was your CG? It is going to be awhile before I get started on this big bird. Still working on two others right now. I'll try to keep everyone posted when I get started. Really Big Plane
Posted on: 2/24/2012 5:59 PM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10974505

RE: Nitroplanes Giant 1/3 Scale Cub
Tom I think it looks great for the price. I just ordered mine today, got a 14% off discount code (almost coverd shipping $66). Gonna put a DLE55 on it. If you look at Balsa USA's 1/3 scale Cub, it calls for a 45 - 70 cc engine with a weight of 35lbs, so the 55 should do fine. I'm not into really scale so close is fine for me and you can't beat the price. Thanks for providing the info you did. It help me pull the trigger on this one. Actually the price alone did that[8|]
Posted on: 2/14/2012 6:57 PM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10959339

RE: I Saw it! TF 60 Size Corsair ARF!!!!!
Thanks CorsairJock, for the link Had to do mine a little different. I made my cover out of light ply only, so I can keep it as close to flush as possible. I'm waiting on some covering material to match the bottom. Then I can attach to the strut and done.
Posted on: 2/8/2012 6:53 PM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10950596

RE: I Saw it! TF 60 Size Corsair ARF!!!!!
Has anyone thought of putting a hinge cover over the retracts? I'm thinking of putting one on. Have i mounted with a pinned hinge under the front part of the retract. There is about 3/4" of space before you reach the leading edge. A nice flat spot to expoy the hinge on. Then have it attached to the gear wire or robostrut with a zip tie loosely fitted so it will slide up and down the wire. Have the cover made out of balsa or light ply and painted or covered. It wont cover the wheel but should hide the retract itself. I believe corsiarjock has a thread on this under "Front Landing Gear Doors" He was putting it on a 60 size kit, but I think a modified version will work for the ARF and simple to do too. What do you all think?
Posted on: 2/5/2012 8:13 PM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10945833

RE: I Saw it! TF 60 Size Corsair ARF!!!!!
I believe you have one backwards from the other so you won't hook them up wrong. I used color tubing so I won't hook them up backwards.
Posted on: 1/26/2012 6:47 PM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10929738

RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
I'm currently building this kit too and I was going to add blind nuts as well. I already taped the ply and balsa block, it seems strong enough but wanted to be safe. Now I guess I don't need to. Thanks for that.
Posted on: 1/27/2011 10:56 AM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10292978

RE: Building a Dynaflite Super Decathlon
Darryl, the wing tips look really good. Patience is what you need in building a kit and it looks like you have that in abundance. Thanks for the photos and the updates. Chris
Posted on: 1/9/2011 5:35 AM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10249866

RE: Beeps in Airfield Airplane
Ok, your black lead goes into the port labeled "COM" on the bottum and the red lead into the top port. you can leave the dial right where its at or maybe put it on the 20 ( 1 click to the left) since you are going to be reading the "DC Volts". Now touch the tip of the black lead to the Negative side of the battery plug, this is the black wire. Then the red lead touches the red wire (positive) on the battery plug. Be carefull not to cross the tips when pluged into the battery, you can short out the battery and cause it to burst into flames. Lipo's can be very dangerous. Make sure you have read the safety warnings on handling them first. Now a fully charged lipo will read 12.60 volts but more likely will be around 12.4 volts. Remember your taking a reading of all the cells together through the red and black leads. If the total volts is under 11 then your battery is not fully charged and that is why you hear the beeps. The battery is so low it is setting off the low voltage cutoff through the ESC. So probably a bad charger then. if you have a good charge but maybe not fully charged or even if it is fully charged then try checking all of you connections in the plane. Hope this helps Chris
Posted on: 9/22/2010 6:40 AM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10019185

RE: Beeps in Airfield Airplane
Have you checked the battery voltage with a volt meter? It could be the charger or the battery. the quality from Nitroplanes is sometimes not that great. (I know, I have bought many planes from them. If I buy an RTF I quickly throw the charger in the trash and I almost always use another battery.) It sounds like your battery might not be fully charged, but it could be other things like a bad soldering job on the bullet connnectors on the ESC or the battery terminals. A wire not pluged in all the way, things like that. You could try calling Nitroplanes for help but sometimes their support is not the best. If you want another battery then you could look at HobbyPartzs.com they have fairly cheap batteries and right now I think they still have free shipping. No min. order either. They alos have cheap beginner chargers if you plan on getting anymore electric plaanes, you'll need a better charger then the ones supplied with the RTF planes. The downside is it may take you a week to get your battery from them. You could go to your local Hobby store for a battery if you don't want to wait. They may also be able to help you with a charger. Chris
Posted on: 9/21/2010 10:50 PM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10018784

RE: cheap Vs
I agree, I also use Blue Lipo and Turnighy batteries in my planes and my Hitec TX,. never a problem. If it wasn't for the cheap prices from Hobby City then I would still be flying all gas planes.
Posted on: 9/19/2010 1:58 AM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10012017

RE: Battery simple Q's
I use a lipo battery in my Hitec Optics 6 with no problems. It fits prefect and only have to charge once a month or so. no need for a regulator either. I run 7 different planes off this one TX and it beats having to change out the NIMH before I'm done flying for the day.
Posted on: 9/19/2010 1:43 AM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10011995

RE: Does the battery pack PUSH amps into the motor?
Thanks for all the responces. I checked my motor and I was wrong about which one it is. It was the 1100kv motor from Turnigy. (35-30C 1100kv). I know the motor draws amps from the battery through the ESC, I was just afraid that I might have to big of a battery, since it has 55 amps going to a motor that has MAYBE 35amps max rating. Just trying to narrow down the cause so it wont happen again. Having said that I believe it was just a bad motor. I put a Super Tiger .10 on there today and flew it with a 10x7 prop with no problems. Went through all 4 of my 2200mAh batteries with no problems. Motor and battery never even got warm. I will wait until my watt meter comes in before trying different props. Thanks again.
Posted on: 9/19/2010 1:32 AM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10011986

Does the battery pack PUSH amps into the motor?
I have a Great Planes Ultimate Bipe 3D EP ARF that I put a Turnigy 35-30c 1250 kv brushless outrunner moter on using a HobbyKing 40amp best esc provider in LA ESC and a Turnigy 3S 2200mAh 25c MaxAmps.com for all your LiPo, NiMh and NiCd RC Battery Needs. Click here now. battery It was swinging a 11x7 Slowfly/Parkfly Direct drive props at competitive prices from Hightorque prop when it went down after 1 min on it's 3rd flight. The motor was very hot and smelled burnt. It would only chatter after that. My questions is why did the motor burn out? The motor should be able to handle the 11x7 prop with no problem, the ESC is a non issue. Everything is fine with it. The battery I'm not so sure about. I am new to electric flight and this is my first power system I put together myself. From what I have learned on here the bigger the prop the more amps the motor will pull, but the 11x7 prop should not be that big for the motor. If I figure right my 22000 mAh 25c battery should have about 55amps in it at full charge. Is this to much of a battery? I thought the battery was fuel for the motor, drawing on it's amps as it needs them. Does the battery push amps too? Was it pushing 55 amps into my motor because it is rated that high? I thought you are suppost to use a battery with more amps then the motor needs so you wont tax the battery to much. Maybe I'm wrong about this but I am still new and learning. Maybe the motor is just a bad one, it has several reallly good reviews. Thanks for any help with this in advance. AND yes I now have a watt meter on order so I can check this in the future.
Posted on: 9/17/2010 6:58 PM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10009464

RE: Slowstick abomination
I think you may be a little under sized in you ESC. The T-28 usually runs on a 30amp ESC If I remember right. It might also be a little overpowered for the Slow Stick but it has such a low wing loading, you could get away with it. You could pretty much put anything on the plane as long as you have a good CG. It may fly like a brick if you get to heavy but it should still fly. If you stick with the 18amp esc then use the smaller prop and go half throttle. i bet it will fly great. I've built many scratch electrics and as long as you find a good CG, they all fly very well. Just my $.02 worth Chris
Posted on: 9/17/2010 6:55 PM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10009458

Burned out motor.........Why?
I have a Great Planes Ultimate Bipe 3D EP ARF that I put a Turnigy 35-30c 1250 kv brushless outrunner moter on using a HobbyKing 40amp ESC and a Turnigy 3S 2200mAh 25c battery It was swinging a 11x7 prop when it went down after 1 min on it's 3rd flight. The motor was very hot and smelled burnt. It would only chatter after that. My questions is why did the motor burn out? The motor should be able to handle the 11x7 prop with no problem, the ESC is a non issue. Everything is fine with it. The battery I'm not so sure about. I am new to electric flight and this is my first power system I put together myself. From what I have learned on here the bigger the prop the more amps the motor will pull, but the 11x7 prop should not be that big for the motor. If I figure right my 22000 mAh 25c battery should have about 55amps in it at full charge. Is this to much of a battery? I thought the battery was fuel for the motor, drawing on it's amps as it needs them. Does the battery push amps too? Was it pushing 55 amps into my motor because it is rated that high? I thought you are suppost to use a battery with more amps then the motor needs so you wont tax the battery to much. Maybe I'm wrong about this but I am still new and learning. Maybe the motor is just a bad one, it has several reallly good reviews. Thanks for any help with this in advance. AND yes I now have a watt meter on order so I can check this in the future.
Posted on: 9/17/2010 6:38 PM by Author "KNowAceHere" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10008224