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Variometer telemetry
I see that FrSky 2.4GHz radio modules offer telemetry, including a variometer. http://www.frsky-rc.com/ShowProducts.asp?id=92 Can this be used as an audio vario or does it only have an alarm and visual display? There is a display you have to add to your transmitter module but I do not wish to look at a display when trying to catch a thermal.
Posted on: 3/16/2012 9:40 PM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11003534
RE: XYZ 53-STS Twin
It would be very tight in a 9"cowl. It measures just under 9"accross the spark plug caps approximately 1 1/2" above the prop shaft. (widest point is not level with the prop shaft). Not sure where they sell them in USA. KMP sell a similar sized twin with rear induction. Got my XYZ from HobbyKing.
Posted on: 10/15/2011 6:48 PM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10767191
RE: XYZ 53-STS Twin
I have my engine running well now, it misses a bit at low RPM but quits if I lean it out any more. Good at higher RPM, possibly with the magnet too far forward the sensor signal may not be as positive as it should be. It still runs reliably and produces lots of power.
Posted on: 9/28/2011 2:43 PM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10738963
RE: XYZ 53-STS Twin
Glad to hear you got a good engine Dave. I was just wondering though, on yours where does the magnet on the prop driver pass in relation to the sensor, on mine half the magnet sticks out beyond the tip of the sensor as it passes, is yours the same? On other engines I have the magnet passes under the tip of the sensor.
Posted on: 9/18/2011 9:35 PM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10723446
RE: XYZ 53-STS Twin
Thanks for that, I had not checked the timing but will now.
Posted on: 9/12/2011 2:46 PM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10713314
RE: XYZ 53-STS Twin
I do wish the engine manufacturer had angled the spark plugs aft instead of up. it would fit better into scale horizontally opposed or radial engined scale models.
Posted on: 8/26/2011 1:57 PM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10688440
RE: XYZ 53-STS Twin
Spark plug boots add a lot to the overall width of these engines. Not many engine manufacturers give engine dimensions including spark plug boots. It is easy to be caught out when buying an engine to fit a certain model over the net.
Posted on: 8/24/2011 9:52 PM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10686049
RE: XYZ 53-STS Twin
No not that I know of. I meant that different manufacturers have different setups, RCGF 50 is rear carb and XYZ 53 carb is bottom mounted (updraft carb)
Posted on: 8/24/2011 9:48 PM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10686043
RE: XYZ 53-STS Twin
Thanks Kiwi Bandit. My muffler does have a leak a bit as well, but nowhere near as bad as the one on a Turnigy HP50 I have. I was tempted to change the CDI unit, I did wonder if the missfire was due to that.
Posted on: 8/20/2011 2:05 PM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10679041
RE: XYZ 53-STS Twin
No, I have no other issues with it. It is cheap for a twin and so far seems easy to start,reliable and powerful. The only issue for me was tuning (after buying better spark plugs), and possibly a plug oiling up. Actual engine quality appears okay apart from a very slight missalignment of the propeller retaining disk holes.
Posted on: 8/19/2011 2:28 PM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10677814
RE: XYZ 53-STS Twin
The XYZ 53 claims more power than the 50cc twins. The engines listed have differences like different carb locations and different spark plug locations, spark plugs sticking straight out from a twin add a lot to the overall width. Sorry, just got it, Aerovate and RCGF.
Posted on: 8/19/2011 1:58 PM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10677773
RE: XYZ 53-STS Twin
It is up to you, I had some problems with mine but it is going okay. Lower vibration than a single is a plus. Kondor Model Products also sell a 50cc twin (Aerovate) or RCGF make a 50cc twin, no doubt there are others but i know nothing about them. Also consider where you want the carb, to suit your installation.
Posted on: 8/19/2011 12:17 AM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10677095
RE: XYZ 53-STS Twin
I have not been doing much flying lately as it is the middle of winter here. I did get one flight in on sunday before being rained out. The engine started easily and is running reasonably well and produces a lot of power. it still miss-fires ocasionally. Weather temperature at the time was approximately 8 degrees C and very humid. It seems to me to be a little more difficult to get the tuning right than a single, it may have been a plug oiled up that caused trouble for me earlier. I am beginning to like this engine though, and in the air it sounds very similar to a full size light aircraft engine
Posted on: 8/15/2011 1:06 AM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10671256
RE: XYZ 53-STS Twin
Yes the engine mounts have very small holes for this size engine. I used high tensile 4mm cap screws and they seem to be holding okay. There is not much space to enlarge the holes. High quality 8-32 screws would probably fit if you do not use metric. I have mine mounted in a Great planes Giant big stick, and it is overpowered even when the engine is not running as smooth as it should. It nice handling plane and good trainer for someone moving up into larger models, a good test bed for a range of motor sizes.
Posted on: 7/31/2011 10:57 PM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10648778
RE: XYZ 53-STS Twin
PlaneKrazee, I am interested to know how your engine is going. I have fitted mine in a model now, and had some trouble with it first time out. It is now the middle of winter here and at 5 or 6 degrees celcius it was reluctant to start. It would fire with the choke on, then with the choke off it would fire but not continue to run. after many attempts I opened the low needle on the carb and it started okay but it has gone back to running on one cylinder with the second one firing occasionally (even after a long warm-up), one plug may have oiled up. It sounds like a WW1 rotary engine. Will try again tomorrow and hopefully re-tune it once it warms up.
Posted on: 7/29/2011 2:40 PM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10645453
RE: XYZ 53-STS Twin
Yes it is the same one.
Posted on: 3/22/2011 8:04 PM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10416928
RE: XYZ 53-STS Twin
I have no idea of its heritage sorry.
Posted on: 3/21/2011 11:41 PM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10415171
XYZ 53-STS Twin
XYZ 53 STS review. I have no connection with any supplier or manufacture but only offer my personal opinion on this engine I recently purchased. The engine came neatly packed in a box measuring 255mm x 195mm x 95mm (10�x 7.7�x 3.75�) within a larger packing box surrounded by padding. The two exhaust pipes and gaskets, ignition unit, and Walbro carburettor and intake assembly are packed in separately within the box. Also included in a heat sealed plastic film are 3 spark plugs, prop retainer and attaching bolts, spiral wrap to cover ignition leads and ignition sensor and power wire, and a plug spanner. There is also a manual. The carburettor gasket, intake assemble (reed valve type) and gasket are fitted on the attaching bolts and retained with an elastic band around the bolt threads. There is a fuel hose tube connecting the intake and carb. Looking into the engine crank case through the intake mount appears to have copper coated steel conrods and looks to have plain big and small end bearings (not sure on that). The crankshaft is supported by three ball bearings. The cylinder heads are very nicely forged one piece aluminium with very thin cooling fins. The spark plugs angle up and width across the spark plug caps is approximately 225mm (8.86�) and 45mm (1.8�) above the Crankshaft centreline 95mm (3.75�)aft of the propeller trailing edge. I would prefer an engine with the plugs angled aft to put the widest point level the crankshaft centreline and further aft of the prop to allow easier fit in scale radial or horizontally opposed engine cowls. (or even angled down would be better than they are) The pistons are single ringed aluminium. Compression feels high. The crankcase is two piece machined aluminium, split radially (front and rear sections) and joined with silicone type sealant (some excess needs to be remove prior to fitting the intake assy) and has a separate engine mount plate bolted to the rear section. The engine mount bolt holes are only 4.5mm diameter, which seems small for an engine this size and high power. Fitting the exhaust pipes, one screw is fitted through the exhaust outlet pipe and the other through a tube in the canister, the gasket is neatly cut. The Exhausts are different for left and right. I did find the attaching screws (5mm cap screws) started to bind in the threads before the exhaust was clamped securely (self locking or poor machining I am not sure which) but they can be tightened enough to clamp it. I fitted the Carb with the mixture screws angling forward (there is nothing in the manual about assembly) and the fuel connection angling aft. The fuel connection is straight barbed brass fitting about 4mm diameter, but this puts the fuel line close to the exhaust. An angled fitting would be better in my opinion (anything from 30 to 90 degrees would give more clearance). I made up my own control arm to the throttle lever (it has standard Walbro fittings). The prop driver hub is drilled and tapped with eight holes, some holes still had swarf in them and were not tapped all the way through. The prop retainer washer is drilled with four holes. I held the retainer washer against the prop driver and tried to fit the mount bolts (5mm cap screws) but found there was a slight misalignment, with a gap between the washer and driver the bolts fitted okay. The prop shaft is 10mm diameter and the forward end is threaded for a 5mm screw to install a spinner I guess. I fitted a 20X10 propeller (manual states 20X8, 22x8, 22X10 two blade). The fuel recommended is 93 octane or higher, oil mix of 25 to 1 up to 40 to 1 fuel to oil. The ignition battery needs to be 4.8 to 6 volts actual voltage, I had an old four cell NiMH battery that when freshly charged read 5.8 volt with no load. Spark plugs are CM-6. (10mm) three supplied Starting involved setting the spring loaded choke into the throttle detent, turning on the ignition then flicking the prop to draw the fuel to the intake. It fired as soon as fuel arrived then died, choke released and throttle reset. Prop was flicked again and engine started. Very easy starting. Initially the engine only ran on one cylinder with the other firing intermittently. The engine was stopped. After removing the plugs and setting the gaps to .5mm (.018�.020�) and swapping plugs I did get it running reasonably. I feel the spark plugs let this engine down badly, I purchased two new NGK CM-6 plugs and these worked great, and the visual difference in quality was obvious. Rather than give you three cheap plugs it would have been better to give you two good ones from the start. Carburettor adjustments must be done with the engine stopped as the adjustments angle forward toward the pro arc. The initial as supplied high needle setting was more than three turns out which seemed too much. After running a few tanks of fuel through and making some minor mixture adjustment I gave it a few short runs to full throttle. This engine appears to have tremendous power. With a 20X10 prop it appears to exceed the stated RPM range of 1900-9000 RPM, a 20X8 would be far too small and the larger props would be more suitable. The engine is not fully run in and my Tacho is not calibrated so I will not quote figures. Noise levels are quite high. Vibration is probably lower than an equivalent single cylinder (you still get torsional vibe from each ignition pulse) Overall, after the initial problems I am impressed with this motor for its easy hand starting, nice low idle and high power. There are some quality control issues, like incompletely cut threads and swarf (nothing seen inside the engine though), and those spark plugs. The manual is 15 pages, it includes some good advice, warnings and precautions and parts list with exploded view. Starting and run-in procedures are well covered. There is nothing about engine assembly or propeller installation.
Posted on: 3/20/2011 10:14 PM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10413028
RE: Newbie to Gas engine - CDI Unit installation
Thanks to everyone for the advice. Best to be safe. My first Gas Plane is a great planes Giant stick ARF. I have been flying glow and some electric models and slope soarers for years Also designing a 1/6 scale Hellcat for Gas engine. Have designed and built a 1/12 scale electric PV1 Ventura that goes well. Cheers, happy flying.
Posted on: 8/2/2010 12:52 AM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9904621
RE: Newbie to Gas engine - CDI Unit installation
Thank you
Posted on: 8/1/2010 5:41 AM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9902654
Newbie to Gas engine - CDI Unit installation
I would like some advice on mounting the CDI ignition unit for a gas engine. My concerns are that it needs to be up front near the fuel tank, and the ignition lines and fuel lines passing through the firewall close together. How do people normally secure the CDI igntion units, batteries etc. How much seperation from fuel system is required. I understand as much seperation from Radio gear as practical is required. I have read the newbie thread in this forum but could not see any advice on this particular issue.
Posted on: 8/1/2010 3:13 AM by Author "Kahu1958"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9902591
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