RE: chit chat thread
Always works for me mate ! full rates on launch up elavator wot.... and throw just staright and up she goes off nicely then switch to a lower rate, dont know whats happened to you dude but if you dont use some elavator she nose's in. Sex on tap oh yes ! and the tap is flooding at the mo as its the weekend !
Posted on: 10/15/2011 1:11 AM by Author "kris..." in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10766095

RE: chit chat thread
Alright me'old'mucker ! I give full up elavator and wot when lauching my bear its works great. where you went wrong is giving it full up... but not enough throttle hehe never mind. its a learning curve with the bear first time i lauched mine ,i snapped the prop of too ! hehe keep smilimg champ ! Regards !
Posted on: 10/14/2011 11:08 PM by Author "kris..." in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10766049

RE: Genesis front/rear bulkhead assembles.
Hello 'The Real Dogman', thanks for replying. That is exactly what i needed to know. Thanks for the explanation as well. I can finish rebuilding my gen and get bashing. CHEERS MATE. Kris. Genesis: Quite modded (full GPM aluminium, Carbon side plates, nova head, etc). Lightning 2 buggy: Fully modded
Posted on: 1/14/2007 4:24 PM by Author "Kris B" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5264581

RE: Genesis front/rear bulkhead assembles.
or the diagrams are correct. THANKS, Kris.
Posted on: 1/13/2007 7:52 AM by Author "Kris B" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5257674

Genesis front/rear bulkhead assembles.
Hello everyone. Please could someone give me some help. I have a CEN genesis which i am currently installing nemesis aluminium cased front/rear diffs. Please could someone tell me which holes (upper/lower) to put the plugs in, on the front and rear bulkheads (I have the nemesis bulkheads as well). The genesis manual does not specify. THANKS Kris.
Posted on: 1/11/2007 5:10 PM by Author "Kris B" in the forum "CEN Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5249345

RE: winch
Wow, the winch you have made looks cool. I have a welder and i could use my friends lathe to make the drum. i had a car winch somewhere in my garage, perhaps i could remove the drum and use it. Its pretty strong but there is a gearwheel attached to it. my friend will get me the starter motor (it's not ford). I could buy a battery(not new) and charge it. Thanx for advices. My mail -imamoroan@yahoo.co.uk
Posted on: 5/23/2006 11:33 AM by Author "kris_pwnz" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4308632

winch
hello. Could someone help we with some tips and suggestions of the winch building? Yea, i saw some plans and images and didnt understand what is the solenoid for? Like what it does and where can i get it. Can i make wooden drum?
Posted on: 5/21/2006 6:42 AM by Author "kris_pwnz" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4300513

RE: foam cutter problem
Im gonna use an acoustic guitar wire 0,10inch diametter. I dont know what metal is it made off but i have read that theese are realy good- smaller the wire diametter- better it cuts. Yeah, i think i might get a lamp dimmer sometime to change the temperature of the wire. One of my friends have made the same cutter- 150w transformer and 0,6 m long wire. He's doing good without the "Variac", but i'm gonna see how is it going without it and then buy it.[:D]
Posted on: 5/8/2006 11:22 AM by Author "kris_pwnz" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4253777

RE: hitech flash5?
Hi, some of you told me find the guy who is is selling me that radio. I did that and found the tx crystal! Yeah, the guy, that owned this radio before him, has cut of the plastic thing with the channel number on it. So hers wuts written on the crystal: TX/FM 35.150 SS-0203 Can some one help and tell me what channel i need to buy? Thanx
Posted on: 5/7/2006 7:40 AM by Author "kris_pwnz" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4249422

RE: foam cutter problem
Thanx, im gonna try it[:D]. It sounded stupid to me that the small wires should be connected to 220v. Well, that was a bit extreme doing this , hope my transformer is still ok. Thanx
Posted on: 5/7/2006 5:29 AM by Author "kris_pwnz" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4249283

foam cutter problem
Im planning to build one of those flying wings. I have parts for foam cutter like the transformer(230v in, 12v out, 150w) and im using guitar string(010 inches). the wire lenght is about 60cm(0,6meter) and the problem is: when i plug in the transformer, the light switches off and i have to change the fuse. And another thing. like there are 4 wires coming out of the transformer- 2 small and 2 realy big wires. thers an arrow on the label showing that 230v should be connected to the small wires and that seemed stupid to me, so i connceted those big wires to 230v and i got to change the fuse again.[&o] Could it be possible that those small wires should be connected to 230v? Thanx[:D] The one i got is similar to this one but it has 2 BIG wires and to small [image]http://www.senukai.lt/katscan/12/12551073.JPG[/image]
Posted on: 5/6/2006 8:41 AM by Author "kris_pwnz" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4246145

RE: Super Chutes/ Winch & High Start Chutes
Im a beginner with the whinch stuff, so can you tell me what is the chute for anyway? [:D] Thanx Kris
Posted on: 5/3/2006 11:36 AM by Author "kris_pwnz" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4235917

3 meter sailplane
I have a 3meter sailplane similar to this [img]http://images.google.lv/images?q=tbn:AMZymI1xQA28IM:lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/raidentech168/raidentechdiscus3.jpg[/img] I bought it for $40 lol becouse the guy got it for free and he couldn't get it in the air. The question is: what are the 3 meter sailplane classes, like i heard of f-3-j or something? i also wanted to know could i put 0,5Hp motor in it so i can get it in the air, becouse i dont have the towing system. Its quite expensive isn't it? Thanx for help ;)
Posted on: 4/23/2006 6:32 AM by Author "kris_pwnz" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4199280

RE: hitech flash5?
Hey huys thanx for the great info. I haven't bought that radio from the guy, but i'm planning to buy it, becouse he offers low price and yeah both crystals are missing. So all i have to do is find the channel number and buy new crystals. In Latvia the 75Mhz radios are illegal, becouse they are used by military. 35Mhz is fully legal here ;) Thanx
Posted on: 4/23/2006 6:23 AM by Author "kris_pwnz" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4199274

RE: New product announcement, HKM 7.2 meter ASW 28
OMG THATS HUGE. how did you get in in the air???
Posted on: 4/22/2006 6:43 AM by Author "kris_pwnz" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4195740

hitech flash5?
i am buying a hitec flash 5 radio system from a friend, but the crystals are lost or something. The radio is 35 mhz and i wanted to know what crystals to buy. there are single and dual conversion, can some one plz tell me the difference? yeah and can some one also suggest an internet shop in europe where can i buy those crystals plz? Thanx
Posted on: 4/22/2006 6:37 AM by Author "kris_pwnz" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4195731

RE: 1/8 Scale and 1/7 scale Nitro Cars
sounds like you have to do alot of mucking around with an RS4 to get it to go fast I am onto my third 1/8th car, a Mugen MRX2. This is not a new car but is a very versatile racer. I am running a Nova Speed and with 15% nitro and it is super fast. If you have raced any type of gas car then these should not be too scary the engin is relativly the same (just more horsepower) and they still have 4 wheels. The seem faster when you watch them than when you are driving. I picked my car with motor and spares up for $550 second hand (that is New Zealand dollars, work it out yourself) at our big events we run 40 minute finals with pit stops ever 5-6 minutes and when you finish one of hose races it is the best feeling i think you can have racing competitive RC cars. Still some of the 10th gas cars are getting pretty fast now especially with the new lola shells. am i boaring you yet
Posted on: 11/16/2004 2:53 AM by Author "RC KRIS" in the forum "RC On Road Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2348629

RE: Real Driftin
I was watching in car footage of japanese formation drifting and their style was to down shift then give a quick pull on the hand break into the drift and play the throtle through the corner. they were in a group of 5 cars nose to tail through a single long corner (very cool and very skilled) some of you shold stop bitching like a pack of girls!
Posted on: 11/16/2004 2:29 AM by Author "RC KRIS" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2348619

RE: how to drift nitros
has any one tried drifting 8th. what do you do for tyres?
Posted on: 11/16/2004 2:00 AM by Author "RC KRIS" in the forum "RC Drifting"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2348598

RE: BEST 3D PLANE FOR 2004
yeah Jon. . I asked Andreas to mold me one that was as light as possible, the bare airframe came in about 4 lbs lighter than normal ones do. The BME110 loses another 4 lbs compared to a 150 setup, and I traded the aluminum wing tube for a CF one, and removed some non-critical material. Funny thing. . while talking with Andreas at Joe Nall last month, he told me that he was basically VERY surprised that the plane was stillin one piece. He figured it would break apart within a month after I got it flying . .I've gone over every inch of the structure, and I really can't any signs of strain or problems. I gues either Andreas is better than he thinks he is, or I got VER lucky with this bird. If I had it do again, I think I'd try a TBM 42% 260. It's only slightly larger, yet is about the same weight with another 200" of wing area. . 2600" of area and 29 lbs. . .think about it. :)
Posted on: 6/12/2004 6:42 PM by Author "Kris^" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1896661

RE: BEST 3D PLANE FOR 2004
yes Tailtwister. . 40% Composite-ARF at 28 lbs .. its written right on the side of the plane. . "40%, 28.5 lbs, 110cc's, Nuff said" That includes the IMAC mandated pilot figure and IP. As you can see from the pics, you can hold it easily with one hand and arm extended. Last picture is Tony Dupaquier (Ynot on these forums) and the Frenzy at Joe Nall.
Posted on: 6/12/2004 5:55 AM by Author "Kris^" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1895586

RE: BEST 3D PLANE FOR 2004
I'm sorry. . I've looked at all the responses, but they just aren't quite as good as my 28 lbs 40% Composite-ARF Extra 330 powered by a BME110X on canisters. I have yet to see anything out there near it's size (lets say over 100") that can fly as slow, as precisely, as radically, or as crazy, as this plane will. Even those Yaks that everyone raves about can't get near it. I was doing harrier passes the other day, with the spoilerons cranked up at about 20 degrees. . not only did it putt along at 5 mph and 30 degrees nose up, the slots in the ailerons whistled the entire time, and it had zero wing rock and was as steady and controllable as if it was doing 40 mph. The upright slow-spin elevator was the same way, totally locked in. Then crank in some throttle and do 15' square loops with zero tip dropout, or even 15' tail-chasing loops in place that never lose altitude or become unstable or slow down. Not talking waterfalls here. . real. . flying . . . loops. The plane will do "S" turn climbs and never slow down, just pull, push, pull, push, on up and up and up. Then come down the same way. It happens almost as fast as you can say it. I'm sorry, you get the weight down that low, it's just unbeatable. One other mention. .for the 1/4 scale sized planes don't forget the 80" "Frenzy" that debuted at Joe Nall this year. With the BME50 on the nose, I really don't think ANY other 72-90' plane can touch it. Soon to be out in kit and ARF forms in full-fuselage and profile versions.
Posted on: 6/11/2004 10:15 PM by Author "Kris^" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1894913

RE: DA-100 or BME 110 EXTREME
Yes, Klotz. I'm here. :D When considering an engine there are SO many factors to think about. Weight is certainly one of them, and this is where the BME110 really hits the mark. People will say that the BME110 is too light, yet I've balanced two 40% Composite-Arf Extras using no lead, and all the servos behind or at the wing tube, and the same with the 33% plane. Achieving CG is usually a matter of where you place things, and how silly you get with structure behind the CG. I was at an IMAC meet this weekend, and a guy with a BME102 asked me to check out his low-end idle since it seemed a bit rough. When he started up it ran fine, though the plane shook a bit. This is a characteristic of the BME engines that has always been there, but it's not due to imbalance or "vibration" problems, it's due to the fact that the engine pulses very hard yet has little weight to dampen the power pulse, so the airframe has to absorb the twisting force instead. If you have a flexible airframe the power pulses are going to shake it with any engine, but the BME's hit a bit harder due to their lack of mass, so it is more apparent. At the same Meet I saw DA's, 3W's and ZDZ's all shaking the airframes of planes at idle, even the big Radio Wave Extras did it. Having seen the DA100's and 150's run, yes, they are very smooth, almost too smooth IMO. I guess I'm used to a bit more fire-breathing from an engine. A lot of this smoothness has to do with the DA's port timing and ignition advance and 5.9 lbs bare weight for the 100. My BME's snarl and smack you in the head with a sledgehammer compared to a DA's massaging your shoulders and breathing on your neck. I guess it comes down to personal preference. Once in the air, though, the way either engine runs is not noticeably different, with both having very good throttle transition and smoothness, and linear throttle curves. I don't even run a throttle curve on my BME's because they are so linear. The BME 110 uses 170 degrees of exhaust port timing, the DA100 uses about 152. The BME has 6-port schneurle with piston ports and a short duration/wide port design, the DA uses a 5-channel schneurle with piston ports and taller/narrower intake ports. These differences show the focus of the BME, being intended for canister style exhaust systems and having the potential for a lot more power with a properly tuned exhaust, when compared to the DA100. I've weighed my 110's with a LONG canister Pefa setup, using the LL Pefa canisters available from Aircraft International. Overall weight, including the ignition, was only 6 lbs 4 ounces, which is actually LESS than the DA100 with stock mufflers and ignition at about 6 lbs 8 ounces. But the weights are close enough to show the balancing capability of the BME w/canisters, which is what the engine was designed around. The last factor is, of course, overall power. My personal engines, running just slightly rich and unmodified, are hitting an easy 6700-6900 HOT with the Mejzlik 28-12 right after landing. Mejzlik 29-10 and Biela or Menz 28-10 Props turn right at 6350-6450, and the 29-10 Biela is in the 6100 range. I've seen other 110X's using the same exact props as mine, and they are in the 6600-6800+ range with the Mejzlik 28-10, but were not broken in and were using stock exhaust diverters. Forget any 27" or smaller prop on the 110. . it's just not enough prop. Comparatively speaking, the DA100 usually turns the 28-10 Mejzlik in the 6300-6500 range, and would drop a couple hundred rpm using the same 28-12 Mejzlik I use. I've not seen any rpm numbers for the DA100 using the Menz 28-10 or Mejzlik 29-10, though a lot of people use the Menz 27-10 and are happy with it on that engine. Some other little things to consider. . No BME has ever broken a crankshaft, though failed bearings have occured. It's the only 100cc+ engine I have seen that this is true about, though to be fair crankshaft failures are a rarity these days and if a crankshaft fails it's usually due to the owner abusing the engine. Customer service is DA's forte, and they have always had very good repair service and engine availibity. BME has a turn around time on repairs of less than 2 weeks usually, and they are building about 20-25 new 110's per week, which is very good with such a small operation. As for engine reliability, I have #3 and #24 BME110 off the assembly line. Not a problem, not a flameout (except for that lost gas tank clunk. . . ) and basically flip and fly for over a year now with these two engines. I have not been kind to them, and my 3rd 110, which was upgraded by BME from a 102, runs just as well and reliably. In the end it comes down to what you need the engine to do for you. I'm partial to the BME's (and it shows). If BME did not exist, however, I'd probably be buying the DA's over the 3W's, though both engine lines have comparable weights and prices. For raw upper end power, the BME and 3W are a close match, with the DA suffering and placing 3rd. For overall flyability the DA comes in first, then the BME, then 3W. For weight, the BME wins, and DA and 3W are tied in a far-distant 4th :D . For customer service and availibility, in reality, all 3 companies try very hard to keep their customers happy. I've heard both good, and bad, stories about each company. It's not worth relating the bad ones. In the end, I tell people. . PICK ONE. . fly it. . be happy with it. . don't worry so much about the other guys engines cause it's not worth getting in a tizzy about some rpm numbers (that are probably a bit stretched anyway). The engine is not going to make you a better flyer, or the plane a better performer, in most cases. I've always felt that if you have to equate your models rpm figures to your personal testosterone levels, you didn't need to be in this hobby in the first place. Just get a good engine from your vendor of choice, take care of it, and fly. . it's that simple.
Posted on: 6/10/2004 7:31 AM by Author "Kris^" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1889748

RE: 3w 106 AI problem...
Some do hook up, some don't Ralph Plain and simple though, the "regulator" actually does control pressure/flow, other wise we would not get mixture deviations when direct air blast hits the front of the diaphragms and causes more flow/pressure to force gas past the needles at a higher rate. there's pressure in there, albeit only a small amount, else you would not need the spring to seat the very small needle with such authority. Regardless, this is hardly a fuel-flow problem, as intimated by a few, because the engine is not starving for fuel, else it would just shut off and be really difficult to restart. One other consideration, I'd LOVE to see anyone get the cover plate bolted down tight without the diaphragm properly clipped to the lever arm for the needle. It seems like a REALLY iffy proposition to get that diaphragms stud in the vicinity of that arm without damaging something if it's not hooked in properly. I guarantee the fuel flow would be either very rich or extremely lean in any case. I did it once, by accident, and had the lever pressed firmly against the casing of the carb. . Talk about a bit of extra fuel flow. . . .straightening out the lever arm was fun too.
Posted on: 6/9/2004 8:52 PM by Author "Kris^" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1888630

RE: 3w 106 AI problem...
This really does not sound like a carburetor problem at all, since a mixture problem would maniest itself in a lean out/die symptom or a "supidly rich and blowing raw gas out the exhaust" symptom. You say you have spark to both plugs. I'm presuming that this is with the sparkplugs off the engine and you see spark whenever the magnet passes the pickup coil. I've had quite a few ignitions that would spark both plugs, but only one cylinder would fire when everything was put together. For the spark to jump a .020" gap in open air only requires about 250-500 volts and a teensy bit of current, but to do it under an engines compression and in the middle of a fuel-air mixture can require 10-20 times as much voltage and a substantial amount of current. Most twin cylinder engines that are firing on only one cylinder will exhibit the following symptoms: The throttle response is VERY poor, and the engine will slowly gain rpm, instead of aggressively accelerating. Usually the engine will start and idle okay, but be very sluggish coming off idle, and no amount of playing with the needles will improve anything. Top end rpm will be very low, usually about half of what it should have been with both cylinders firing. I've seen 150's that would not get over 3500 rpm, and 100's that were even weaker, especially if you played with the carburetor needles to try to get more rpm. The engine will sound kind of "flat" at any rpm. Best bet is to run the engine for about a minute, at idle, then shut it off and check to see if BOTH cylinders are hot. Another way is to actually stick a hand down by the exhaust outlets and see if one is hot and the other cool. Be careful not to get too close though (callouses really help here). If one seems to not get hot or fire, try swapping the sparkplug leads to see if the problem follows the "bad" ignition lead. If so you should send it in and have your dealer repair it. If not, you may have a shorted sparkplug, or one with a cracked insulator that will arc to ground instead of across the gapped terminals. One other possibility is that the timing is retarded. On a 3W, check to make sure that the hub magnet is centered on the pickup, or slightly advanced (clockwise from center, looking at the front of the engine). The magnet should be directly between the 3 and the W on the pickup, or slightly advanced from that position, when the pistons are at TDC (mid-way in the "dead spot" as you rock the crank past the point where the pistons are all the way up). If the pickup has moved and the magnet does not fall into this area, you can move the pickup clockwise to advance the timing. Retarded timing at idle will make the engine tend to idle smoothly (if it runs at all) but bog coming off idle and cause low-end throttle response to suffer and the top end power will be lower than expected, but still decent. A WEAK pickup, however, will also cause the ignition to not get enough advance once it gets off idle, causing the engine to be sluggish after about 2000 rpm is reached (both cylinders firing) and to dropout/misfire or have bad top-end power above about 4000 rpm There are a lot of things that can cause your engine to run poorly. Personally I'd be really checking to see if BOTH cylinders are firing once it starts. That is the most common problem that can cause the running symptoms you are describing. Of the other problems related by people responding to this thread. . A warped/cracked carb block usually manifests itself in very hard starting, poor idle quality, and decent mid-range and top end power, and you will see a lot of gas/oil residue on the sides of the engine above the carburetor. Reed problems have similar symptoms, but the top end power usually drops off as well and there is no residue on the ouside of the carb block area. You may also see a lot of "reversion" blowing gas back out the carburetor at idle with a weak/damaged reed petal. If the engine started and idled okay, there is little chance that the pressure regulator was the problem, otherwise you'd get a start/die symptom because you would be not getting much gas after the initial "choked charge" was used up by the engine. If the engine is idling with the needles set as you described, and the choke is completely off, the pump and pressure regulator parts of the carburetor are more than likely working properly. If they weren't, you'd be getting almost no gas past the regulators needle/seat (if the diaphragm was not engaged and the spring was forcing it shut) and the engine would just start and die or be EXTREMELY lean at idle and require 3-4 turns on the needle to even think about running. It is possible that the diaphragm came unhooked from the pressure regulator lever when you first removed the cover, leading you to the impression that it had not been hooked up in the first place. Seen it happen a few times while taking them apart myself. The best way to check to make sure it's hooked up is to simply take a flat-tipped rod (4-40 sized will do) and press on the diaphragms center piece (that metal thingy inside the hole) GENTLY while the cover is still in place. If there is a springy resistance and the diaphragms metal center piece pushes back out over and over again as you prod it with the rod, then the diaphragm is hooked up to the lever, and the levers seating spring is pushing the diaphragm back out each time you depress it. (be gentle while doing this. . . . . ) Best of luck with your engine.
Posted on: 6/9/2004 8:00 AM by Author "Kris^" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1886604

RE: Biela Propellors
One question Bob. .What the heck are you doing up at 3:20 in the morning??? Geesh :) As for hauling a lot of props around, it would not be necessary if more people gave reviews of of them and how they performed. A lot of "Prop choice" also comes down to a flyers personal preference and flying style. For my 150's I have about $750 worth of props laying around, including the Mej 32-10, Fuchs 33-12, AM 30-12 3-blade, and the the 3W 31.5-14x8 and 31-11 props. They all perform differently and can be used in a discrete "niche" type of flying scenario. I consider the Mej 32-10 a great all around "lets have fun" prop, the Fuchs is a good two-blade choice for pattern style flying, both the 3W props unload and rip really badly over 1/3 throttle, yet they are the best 3-D props in the group and will PUNCH a plane out of a hover, and the AM 3-blade is now my backup for the Biela. As for 100-110cc sized props, Mejzlik 28-10, Mej 28-12, Mejzlik 29-10, Menz 27-10, Menz 28-10, and the 28-10 and 29-10 Biela's. Again, they all do different things and perform quite differently depending on the airframe they are bolted to. I'm sticking with the Mejzlik 28-12 on my BME-110 powered 40% plane, simply because the plane is nothing more than a 28 lbs Fun-fly, and that's the way I fly it most of the time. By bolting on the 29-10 Biela, however, the planes nature changes a lot, and very smooth sequence flying is possible if the rates are turned down. Not even gonna talk about the silly prop for my 240. . . .
Posted on: 6/9/2004 7:13 AM by Author "Kris^" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1886547

Biela Propellors
I just wanted to say a few words about the new Biela propellors available from Aircraft International. I first saw the Biela's last year at Joe Nall, and bought a 27-10 for my 33% Composite-Arf Extra which had a BME102/canister setup for power at that time. I had been using an AM 28-10 2-blade or Menz 27-10, and turning in the 6300-6400 rpm range with either prop. The Biela 27-10 turned right in the same range, but in flight it was the best of the 3 props. It was smoother on transition and during aerobatics than even the Menz, and exhibited none of the "fidgety" characteristics of the light loaded AM28-10. I called it, then, the best of both worlds, with smooth transition from low-high thrust from the prop as it turned up, yet enough drag on the engine to help hold down borderline prop rip as well as very good downline braking. Fast forward a year and I'm running both the 28-10 and 29-10 Biela's on my BME110 w/canisters, and just bought a 30-12 THREE blade (HUGE prop) for my 3W TOC150 w/canisters. I've been a diehard believer in the Mejzlik CF props for about 5 years now, and thought no prop could outperform them for Pattern and Sequence type flying. I was wrong. With every Biela I now use the planes are smoother, have a lot less noise in the air, have superior downline braking, and about equal vertical performance, all while turning about 400-500 rpm slower than a similarly sized Mejzlik, and without all the prop moan and rip associated with a Menz-s of the same size. At the Mocksville (SE District) IMAC contest this weekend the prop performed very well, being substantially quieter in the air than almost every prop at the Meet, but still hauling my 39.5 lbs (Dry) Composite-Arf 40% Extra around VERY well, helping it to fly a lot smoother than it was with the AM 30-12 3-blade I used to use, and making the plane make ME look good. :) Current RPM figures on the 3W150 are in the 5300-5400 range and it dB's at about 92 dB or so under IMAC testing procedures. On the BME110 powered plane, the 2-blade 29-10 Biela turns right at 6100 rpm and dB's in the 90-91 dB range, and the 28-10 turns about 6450-6500 and dB's at about 93dB. Construction of the Biela is a "painted in the mold" Carbon fiber layup with hollow blades with the CF laminated over a hardwood hub. The blades are a BEAUTIFUL white with red striped tips, and the spinning prop is a thing of beauty as the plane is taxiing or flying slowly by. It looks VERY scale, and if the plane has a lot of red and white in the color scheme, it's a very nice match. Most people with 150's will want to use a 29-12 3-blade to let the engine unload a bit, but if your engine has some conjones, the 30-12 3-blade might be the ticket. 3-blade sizes for most 100-110 engines will be either the 25-12 or 26-12, and the 27-10 or 28-10 two blade is a good match for most 100 class engines. For instant get-up-and-go, the Mejzlik is superior, without a doubt. But the overall compromise necessary to fly IMAC and pattern-style precision aerobatics dictates more than just brutal acceleration and vertical performance. I consider the Biela propellors to be superior in this category. For more information please contact Gerhard at Aircraft International. I have little doubt that others will find these propellors to be exactly what I've said they are. . smooth, beautiful, quieter than most others, and a good match for precision style flying.
Posted on: 6/8/2004 7:44 PM by Author "Kris^" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1885315

RE: Broken cranks on gassers
One other thing a lot of people forget is that engines are machines. Any time you have parts moving around, and then stress them and hammer them a bit, there is a possibility of a component failing. Almost every major engine manufacturer has had incidents where a crankshaft failed. I've personally witnessed crankshaft failures from 3W, DA, and ZDZ, seen broken pistons, slipped rings, popped circlips on connecting rods, and a plethora of failed crankshaft bearings, not to mention a few broken crankcases. Under "Normal" (please define what that is in this hobby) usage these engines should last 1000+ hours, at least that is how long the cylinders and pistons/rings should last if the engine is properly lubricated. But, we seldom have "Normal" conditions due to the many things that change throughout the day, much less throughout a 15 minute flight. The biggest things to avoid, besides prop strikes and head-on collisions with large immovable objects, is overheating and detonation due to poor fuel quality. Overheating can seize an engine, soften the rings so that they lose tension and will not seal, or burn out bearings and other parts due to the metals properties being degraded. Detonation, however, is really the engines worst enemy, because it can exist without the flyer being aware of it. An engine on the verge of detonation will come in and out of actual detonation long before your ears will detect the telltale "rattle" coming from the plane. By the time you hear it, a lot of damage has already been done. Bearings are hammered, pistons get pitted and have the edges blasted away, rings can break, and crankshafts and crankcases can crack under the tremendous high-pressure spikes associated with detonation. With proper maintenance any engine you buy on todays market should run well and last a long time with little maintenance or needle changes in the carburetor. As long as you are aware of what is actualy going on, use the proper oil and ratio in the gas you burn, use GOOD gas of the proper (or slightly higher) octane, keep the engine cool and don't overload the motor with really stupidly over/undersized props, any engien youbuy should have very few problems throughout it's lifespan. All you have to do is be sane in what you expect from the engine, then take care of it in an intelligent fashion. And try to stay away from prop strikes and head-ons with large immovable objects.
Posted on: 6/7/2004 5:35 PM by Author "Kris^" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1881481

RE: DA 100 vs. ZDZ 100 NG
Dick, I always trust YOUR rpm numbers.. seems they closely match the "normal" numbers for a BME102 Evo. Can't argue about whether you own an engine or not if everyone is posting comparable numbers, and the average power and rpm figures for each engine are about equal. You're starting to sound a bit like a politician there, Dick. Fact is that the engines are closely comparable, even though you may not like admitting it. Shortman, I have 3 BME110's. . Want one? be happy to sell it to you for a small profit if you want one TODAY. Then again, you don't need a 110 to have the same engine as the ZDZ100NG. . merely find a good used BME102 Evo for a decent price (there's probably 1000 or so 102's floating around out there. . . ) and you have comparable power, weight and a lower price. You guys make this so complicated. . . . I wonder how much crying would go on if BME ever decided to build a 150 or a 220 4-banger.
Posted on: 6/2/2004 6:27 AM by Author "Kris^" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1866185

RE: DA 100 vs. ZDZ 100 NG
uh. . Excuse me Hugo. .for the "money". . comparable amount spent, the BME110 is far superior over the DA100 in terms of POWER (gain 3-500 rpm) WEIGHT (2 lbs lighter) SIZE (shorter, narrower, rear angled plugs for better cowl clearance), and WOW appeal. Sorry to burst your bubble. . . the DA is a good engine, but it's 2 years obsolete to the BME110X, and has not evolved at all since it was introduced. From the numbers posted, I'd say the ZDZ100NG is about equivalent to a BME 102 "Evo" in displacement, power output, and weight. Considering that the BME102 is a Echo chainsaw based engine, and the ZDZ is a built-for-purpose design, the lack of more performance from the ZDZ is a bit disappointing. Not that it's a bad engine, the power numbers are just a bit lacking when compared to a lowly BME 102 Evo.
Posted on: 6/1/2004 10:02 PM by Author "Kris^" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1865395