RE: prop ballancing 24 10
For wood props, instead of sanding on the heavy blade to lighten it, what is wrong with just spaying some urethane on the lighter blade? Seems to work fine for balancing and you do not mess up the prop's finish. Of course, if one buys props that are not close to start with, then this does not work until you get the prop close.
Posted on: 9/18/2012 11:25 AM by Author "Len Todd" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232568

RE: Slow transition on DLE20
You are right about a rich engine running like crap. However, I personally feel it is initially better to run it slightly too rich than too lean. One has to start tuning someplace, and I prefer creeping up on the sweet spot from the fat side, no matter what 2-stroker I am tuning. Once I got used to my gas plane a bit, then, I took some time leaning things out a very small amount at a time. I am finding that as I get close to the sweeter spots, very tiny adjustments are making noticeable differences. Also as the engine wears in, I am finding that additional carb adjustments are necessary (e.g. throttle position, etc.). And if the OP is trying to rapidly accelerate the plane and it is momentarily hesitating before accelerating, then IMHO, he may have the low speed screw too lean. After over 45 years of fiddlin' with 2-strokes, that is what I first would suspect. Carbs with accelerator pumps are faster responding. But, most 2-strokes respond fairly well when they are adjusted correctly for the conditions of the day and site. That is one of the reasons why they are still around.
Posted on: 9/12/2012 8:14 AM by Author "Len Todd" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11226098

RE: Gas Engine interference
Non-conductive = isolated/insulated/whatever. Sorry, if my N-Plant electronics technical jargon confused you. [quote]ORIGINAL: dirtybird [quote]ORIGINAL: Len Todd Did you use a non-conductive throttle linkage? A conductive throttle linkage has been known to ''feed'' ignition noise into the throttle servo and back to the receiver. Also, if you are using ganged Aileron servos
Posted on: 9/12/2012 7:33 AM by Author "Len Todd" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11226067

RE: Evolution G26 tunning issue
Maybe things are different on a G-26. But, ... the low end mixture is used to adjust the idle? The idle is typically adjusted using the throttle position. I got to be reading this post wrong. ?? Anyway, ... I would fatten up the low end mixture a bit and get the quicker transition to high RPM. Then, I would re-validate that the high end setting was still correct. Then, I would use the throttle position to adjust the idle RPM. If you have the throttle set up correctly, you should be using the throttle trim on the transmitter to be setting your idle RPM. This gives you the capability to change the idle while flying, even to the point of killing the engine, if need be.
Posted on: 9/11/2012 9:28 PM by Author "Len Todd" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225748

RE: Slow transition on DLE20
My DLE 111 also seems a bit slow on the throttle response. I am still breaking it in and it is running quite rich. However, I am now sitting here wondering if I should just replace the ignition before I start systematically leaning it down.
Posted on: 9/11/2012 9:13 PM by Author "Len Todd" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225742

RE: Gas Engine interference
Did you use a non-conductive throttle linkage? A conductive throttle linkage has been known to "feed" ignition noise into the throttle servo and back to the receiver. Also, if you are using ganged Aileron servos (i.e. two on each wing): On my 33% Extra 300L, I separated the ganged aileron servos using smartfly's Equalizer II. They acted erratically w/o the Equalizer in between the AR9210 receiver and the servos. I could not just use Ys on ganged digital servos.
Posted on: 9/11/2012 12:09 PM by Author "Len Todd" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225247

Need Plane Electrical System Planning Help
I hope this is in the right forum; I bought a 33% Extra 300L ARF and a DLE 111 engine. I am using a Spectrum DX8 and planning to use Hitec HV digital servos. Before I place the order for the electrical components, I think I need some help. I searched this forum for wiring diagrams, etc. and read for hours. I now have a few ideas on what needs to be done. But the whole electrical system(s) still seems a bit murky. I have the AR8000 receiver that came with the DX8. I am not planning to use the AR8000’s telemetry, at this time. I am also looking at the AR 9110 PowerSafe receiver. My concern with the AR8000 is the current handling capability of the receiver. Will it consistently drive all the Hitec servos? Or should I just bite the $200 bullet and get the AR9110 PowerSafe Receiver? I would like to use the AR8000.How would it need to be powered (e.g. just plug two Receiver Power Packs into the servo bus)?? For the Flight Control System, I am tentatively planning to use: Two (redundant) 2000 mah 2S LiPo Receiver Power Packs, one DPST power supply cut-off switch, the AR8000 or AR9110 receiver and five HS-5585MH High Voltage Digital Servos for ailerons, elevators and throttle and one HS 5765MH High Voltage Digital servo for the rudder. For the DLE 111, I am planning to use another 2000 mah 2S LiPo Receiver Power Pack and a SPST power supply cutoff switch. For the two above applications, is a Voltage Regulator necessary? I was told that the Servos and DLE’s Electronic ignition will handle the 2Ss’ 8.2 – 7.4 VDC w/o a voltage regulator. However, HH’s description on the “High-Output LiPo Regulator with Switch by Losi” says it is required for the use of the Receiver Power Packs. Cutting the voltage down to 6 VDC is not really where I want to be. I was thinking 7 volts would take advantage of the servos’ full torque. Are these Losi VRs required? The only real plus of this would be the shutoff switches integrated into the VRs. But, if I use these VRs, I would need three (i.e. one for each of the Receiver’s supplies and one for the engine’s ignition.) Seems like a bit of overkill here. ? What are your thoughts about using a BEC off the receiver’s power packs for the engine’s ignition? It saves the weight and cost of a third battery. But it does tie the two systems together essentially making a single failure mechanism. I am not sure I understand the “softswitch” function of the AR 9110. Does that switch turn off the receiver and servos, etc. thus eliminating the need for the hardwired shutoff switches between the batteries and receiver? If not, just what does it do? Does anyone have a recommended schematic/wiring diagram for this type of 33% scale plane setup? It seems it would really help to sell us the right stuff and have the customers happy too.
Posted on: 7/16/2012 6:14 PM by Author "Len Todd" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11157957