Test for Glow Engine Experts
I had a glow engine problem that stumped a lot of us at the field for a few days. I've been at this hobby since 1967 flying glow, gas and electric so I thought I'd seen and fixed all the glow problems possible. I'm presenting this as it appeared to us as an intellectual exercise for your enjoyment - if you are not into puzzles, move on, because this problem is solved and we are not in need of help. Setup A friend gave me an OS Max FP 25 for use in a SPAD combat Draco (coroplast construction flying wing, 40 inch span, see spadtothebone.org for plans). The engine appeared to be well used, and the owner said it ran well right up to the crash it was involved in. The carb was mounted 180 degrees from the normal stock configuration, and the threaded part of the spraybar that the needle threads to was bent about 5 degrees. I installed the carb as it was originally designed ... needle on the left looking from the back of the engine. The carb mounting screws were in good shape, as was the carb to crankcase o ring. The bent spraybar was straightened using two brass tubes, muscle and eye - the needle appeared to thread in just fine and the needle itself appeared undamaged. The engine was installed on typical SPAD mounts (cutting board material), with the four oz Dubro rectangular tank just behind the engine, it's centerline about 1/4" below the center of the carb. The tank is a two line system, with fueling being done by pulling the carb line off the engine. The tank is held on with zip ties, no foam. It has a normal muffler pressure tap and line ot the tank. I made a new muffler gasket from a piece of 3x5 card stock. Master airscrew 9x5 prop, Byrons 15% nitro sport fuel, 16% oil. Initial test flights had the usual bugs and were typically short as I got the feel of the plane. The engine ran well, turning around 12K. The needle acted normally. This is an airbleed carb which worked reliably. More info about the problem to follow in the next post, but here's a pic of the setup:
Posted on: 6/30/2012 12:36 AM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11135981

RE: Test for Glow Engine Experts
OK, so the following comments were raised, and I'm paraphrasing some of them, after the correct answer came through on: 1. The problem isn't fixed, and its heat, and you need to fix it. 2. The oil content is too low 3. The prop might be too big and if the engine isn't ABC then the oil is wrong. The OS engine needs 20% oil. It might be worn out and it is going to repeat the problem when it gets hot again. 4. The big spinner overloads the engine. 5. I am an idiot for running a Master Airscrew prop I'm going to be in big trouble after I respond to these comments. 1. The problem IS fixed, and I do not need help. I tried to convey that in the problem statement, but obviously failed. When the spinner was removed, the engine ran to empty with no changes to anything other than replacing the pressure line. It flew fine this way four more times, full to empty tank. Please also remember how repeatable the problem was it did it on the ground and in the air. It isn't getting too hot, and seizing. It does get starved for fuel in the last fifteen seconds or so of the run, and obviously starts getting hot, but it is fuel starvation that is killing it. It isn't running lean the whole run. When you start the engine cold at half tank, it will start only if you richen it up a lot, and it will still stop. Take the spinner off and all that stops. I forgot to mention that the successful test happened on a day where we hit 97 degrees F. 2. Excerpt from Byron's site: These fuels feature a wide range of nitromethane and oil percentages and are available in your choice of synthetic/castor blends or straight synthetic lubrication. Generally, a 16% total oil content is more than adequate for optimum performance and minimal parts wear. For those who feel more comfortable with higher oil percentages, we manufacture our Aero Traditional Blends with 20% total oil content and our Aero Premium 18 Blends with a total oil content of 18%. Our entire club runs this stuff, 25 active fliers, in every engine you can think of. We use the Aero Gen 2 version, which has a blend of synthetic and castor oils. I'm not going to debate castor with you guys .. I believe in the higher breakdown temperature feature, and I know I'm old school in that belief. To each his own - I've run this for over fifteen years with no issues, and I tear down a lot of engines to see how they are doing. 3. Excerpt from the OS site on the 25FP: 25FP 12331 ABC 0.248 0.708 0.63 0.6 @ 15,000 2,500 - 16,000 1.42 0.55 2.62 1.77 2.93 1.83 1.14 1.56 2.36 UNF 1/4-28 6.52 E-2030 2A 9x5 9x5, 9x6, 10x5 The 9x5 I'm running is on the low end of what it can turn. It is an ABC. Excerpt from the OS manual for the FP series is included as an attachment, and it does call for 20% castor. I think that is excessive ... my opinion. Also, the only manual I could find had the iron piston ... not the ABC like I have. 4. The big spinner overloads the engine. No, this is a misconception. This is the one comment that made me have to respond. Once the spinner is up to speed, it takes virtually no energy to keep it spinning. The air friction it experiences is negligible, and therefore there is very little work done by the spinner. Overcoming the inertia to get it spun up ... ok, that might be a bit more than a smaller spinner, but guys, this is in the noise! The spinner actually acts as a ducting device to direct cool air to the right places on engines when set up right and reduces air drag on the airframe, making the engine load less. It is why spinners are there on full scales ... it isn't because they look nice. As another poster said, it also covers the root area of the prop where a lot of drag is produced. F=ma rules here ... it takes force to accelerate the spinner to speed, but once there, it actually stores energy like a flywheel in its rotation. Unless there is a decelerating force on the spinner, which there isn't, it does not load the engine except during throttle changes. I pretty much ran full throttle the whole time. The problem with THIS spinner was how it lined up with the mouth of the carb intake. 5. Master Airscrew. Everyone knows that the MA props have had issues at one time or another. One magazine that is out of print beat that prop up in every issue, saying that the pitch was wrong and changed under load. We all have heard these things. Combat guys in the US are required by the rules in some classes to use MA props in the 8x3 size on .15's to limit the speed. They do not break as easily as an APC prop when you skid in (I broke the two APC's I had in the first landings and this MA prop is still on there after many flights). I had the prop in a junk drawer, and the Draco is the fastest plane on the field with it, now that the engine is reliable. Thanks for all the inputs, I recommend we let this thread die.
Posted on: 6/30/2012 12:30 AM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11137371

RE: Test for Glow Engine Experts
summerwind - Why would you say I would not answer? Look, this was delivered as entertainment, and I will be the first to acknowledge that the troubleshooting methodology could have been better. i was the guy that changed out tank hardware three times for no good reason, too. I tried the glow plug first because the one that was in there was an unknown. I had no idea what the guy had left in it, and for all I knew it was bad and had caused the crash that HE had. I have had multiple experiences where a plug that started going bad would lead to an engine quitting at full throttle. It was an easy thing to try and I really should have changed it before running the engine the first time. I suspect that you raise this question because plugs are rarely the cause of glow engine problems, particularly with today's plug quality. I would agree. Lam - You asked spinner size, and someone else said I must be cheap because this is a SPAD. Sort of right, I have a few 50cc ships, and about ten flyable ships. This one was built in an effort to get combat going in the club (successful so far) and I used what was in my junk box. This spinner also faired nicely into the landing skid I put on. It was about 2 and a quarter inches ... too big!!
Posted on: 6/29/2012 7:29 AM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11136407

RE: Test for Glow Engine Experts
Patrick is the winner. Took the spinner off, and problem gone. As you can see from the pics, the spinner blends right into the carb throat. Really hard to understand exactly what went on here, but we think that the air getting accelerated over the spinner and thus over the top of the carb created a venturi that sucked air out of the carb, making it very sensitive to fuel level. Honestly, I don't have a full explanation, but I can tell you for sure that this fixed it. While the spinner was on, the air bleed screw position did not seem to matter, and yes, it is checked clear.
Posted on: 6/28/2012 10:36 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11136048

RE: Test for Glow Engine Experts
At home, I am absolutely sure now that this is a tank problem. That is the only thing that the pressure line could affect. Replaced all the stuff in the tank again, used brass tubing, carefully faced the tank opening to be sure it would seal, and used a Sullivan stopper assembly this time because their rubber is a bit more compliant. This HAS to fix it. Combat day arrives. Go to the field, it quits after four minutes again. Fly with no pressure, it drains the tank just fine. I'm done. I'm just going to fly it this way even though I know that this makes no sense, and things you do not understand in RC eventually come around and bite you. But ... a guy makes a suggestion that took me two minutes to do, and which everyone, including the guy, said could not be it. I did it to humor him, and it worked. The engine ran much better, the needle adjustments seemed more "normal" and it drained the tank in flight. Problem solved. What was it that he suggested? You have all the information that we had at the time in these posts and pics.
Posted on: 6/28/2012 9:46 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11136003

RE: Test for Glow Engine Experts
Frustrated now. These problems happen to other people, not me. At home I changed the stopper, all the lines again, put a fuel line o ring on the needle seat to make a better seal, and changed the carb - crankcase O ring out. I ran the engine several times on the ground, same old thing ... the Four Minute Failure. Next week, combat day, I go out there knowing that this engine is nfg. First flight, four minutes, deadstick. Then one of the guys suggests running no pressure. What the heck, we do it, and have to open the needle a bit to compensate for no pressure ... but the darn thing ran to end of tank! Four flights, no problems at all! Put the pressure back on, four minute failure again. More pics:
Posted on: 6/28/2012 9:38 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11135996

RE: Test for Glow Engine Experts
So, continuing on ... When our first casual combat sessions started, I found that the airplane would only run for about 4 minutes, lean out and die. This led to several fun deadsticks. Initially, we thought glow plug, so I changed from the old plug that was in there, an idle bar of all things, to an OS F. No change. Tried an A3. No change. Observed that the fuel level, at the time it quit, was right at the top of the stopper of the tank. Initially I was using plastic tubing through the stopper, not brass. In the deadsticks, the tank had shifted forward a couple of times, flexing that plastic, so I figured it had a hole in it. Went back home, changed out the plastic lines and all the fuel tubing, inside and outside the tank. I also noticed that the stopper screw didn't seem to have a lot of bite to compress the stopper, so I fixed that with a bigger diameter screw. Next week, combat day, and the darn thing did exactly the same thing. Four minutes, test your deadstick skills with a flying brick. Sort of takes the joy out of it. Four of us troubleshooting now, and the only thing we learned was that the problem is repeatable on the ground. Fill the tank, it runs. Drain to top of stopper, it quits. We ran a 1/16" drill bit down the muffler pressure nipple, no obstruction and it blows through fine. Muffler appears normal, and has baffle installed. Another set of pics:
Posted on: 6/28/2012 9:30 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11135988

STTB site down
Anyone know why the spadtothebone site is down?
Posted on: 4/18/2012 1:33 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "S.P.A.D. Aircraft - Coroplast design"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11047501

RE: Proctor Antic Monoplane 81
Clipwing - I'm still hunting those plans. I'm sure I have a set, but I cannot find them. As soon as I find them, I'll advise you. Good news!! Plans found, two large sheets. Taking to Kinko's tomorrow. Please PM me an address, I'll get you a price for the plans and shipping by email. I'll fold them if that is OK, to save on mailing charges. Please confirm you still have interest. Regards, Rikk
Posted on: 3/27/2012 8:29 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11017927

RE: Proctor Antic Monoplane 81
Yes, I had to remove the four screws that hold the four legged brass tubing flying wire attachment point to get the hatch to come out. It is very roomy inside. I'll advise about the plans, but it might be this coming weekend before I can do it.
Posted on: 3/18/2012 9:51 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11006434

RE: Proctor Antic Monoplane 81
Ain't RC just great! OK, so I have one in exactly the same shape, although I need to rip the covering off, and refinish some of the wood. After beating on the website for months, I finally got a set of plans. I'll start looking for them. I have not started work on mine in favor of other priorities, but I have an OS 91 four stroke I was going to use. There is a lot of data on the plans about flying wires you need to see. I ripped out the old servos and put them in the museum ... mine is not rigged per plan in terms of the surfaces. I was going change to pull pull on both rudder and elevator for looks, and go to two serovs for the ailerons. The firewall is a mess on mine. Once I find the plans, I'll see about copying ... I assume you would foot the bill for copy charges and mailing? Let me know. Oh, and I've been flying since I was 12, and I'm 56 now ... we're the same vintage. I assume you remember the Antic on floats on the cover of RCM with the model in the bikini? Regards, Rikk
Posted on: 3/18/2012 5:05 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11006026

RE: best way to train new pilots
Xmas day and we are all commenting about RC training, spelling and rudder. I submit this humble response as one of the instructors with the "RC Virus" that is in our blood, and I'd like to try to respond to the OP's question about the best power source for a trainer. As many have said, if the plane is a fairly good size, the power source does not matter that much. I think that the most important aspect of successfully getting a guy through the learning period is the "Flying Time to Field Time Ratio (FT/FT)". The optimum situation is to push the guy to fly, land, fly, land ... with the land part as short as possible. During the land part you are teaching and going over goals. If the guy only gets three flights in a morning ... and is either charging batteries or fussing with a bawky engine the rest of the time ... then he is going to get discouraged. You want the guy going home every time with a grin on his face about the progress made. If he feels like he getting nowhere ... he'll quit. So ... if the guy goes electric, then he needs to come to the field with enough batts to allow continuous flying for a morning - four batteries or so, and chargers. If glow, then he needs a newer engine - preferably (start new argument HERE) not an old K&B 40. IMO, you get a higher FT/FT ratio with an OS 46 glow than electric ... fuel, fly, fuel, fly..... Off topic ... I agree with the poster who said straight wings are the way to go. Takes a bit longer, but better skills.
Posted on: 12/25/2011 11:30 AM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10875700

RE: mmm nice
I have to respond to this post from page one of the thread: [quote]Please, please, please forgive the intrusion into a possible political discussion but this statement was also in the Fox News article: "With early knowledge that the aircraft had likely remained intact, the senior U.S. official also told Fox News that President Obama was presented with three separate options for retrieving or destroying the drone. The president ultimately decided not to proceed with any of the Link this word and every other one like it in our forum to YOUR Website! plans because it could have been seen as an act of war, the official told Fox News." I present this as food for thought, not as a request for a political discussion. I don't know of any situation where the US lost an intelligence carrying platform and did not summarilly bomb the crap out of it. Yes they sometimes don't get it all but to leave something like this intact? No way. [/quote] USS Pueblo U2 shootdown over Russia EP3 captured, disassembled, studied, reassembled by China (come on!! this was in 2001!! do we forget so easily ... let's see, was Obama in office in 2001? Hmmm , noooooo). " Eventually the crew was released, and the plane in pieces, stuffed into a Russian transport aircraft returned to the U.S., where it was subsequently reassembled and refitted for duty." HAINAN ISLAND, ChinaThe downed EP-3 Aries, minus its nose and parts of some propeller blades, at Lingshui Airfield June 18. U.S. Pacific Command began operations June 13 to return the damaged U.S. Navy EP-3 surveillance plane to the United States. Several more at http://home.iwichita.com/rh1/hold/av/avhist/mily/spyplane.htm " I don't know of any situation where the US lost an intelligence carrying platform and did not summarilly bomb the crap out of it"? History does not support the statement. The real information is out there people ... don't let the pundits teach you false history for their ratings. Go look for yourself.
Posted on: 12/10/2011 1:51 AM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10852481

RE: Help!!!!
This same deal happened to me, except the goods were two airplanes, 25% CAP and a Cub. I am in Wisconsin and the other guy was in New York. The deal was that I send the Cub, the guy uses my crate to send the CAP to me. Cub goes out by Greyhound, received ... communications stop. I got myself into the same state you are in now. Very angry, and feeling powerless. The guy would respond every now and again with excuses about his mom in the hospital, him in the hospital, etc. I gave him ... months. I called a lot at different times and emailed. So, I finally realized that he had to belong to a local RC Club ... the AMA has the names of club presidents. I contacted the likely clubs and came up a winner with one. I arranged to talk to the club president, who was surprised, because "John is a great guy". The pres talked to him, and suddenly the guy is angry at me for ruining his name, and he ships the CAP. In the last exchange with the guy, I realized that this was not a scam ... the guy is just incredibly lazy and a procrastinator. He just neede some adult supervision to get going. I know the truck guys do not have a national org to fall back on, but the point of this is that while legal means exist ... it can be expensive, and lead to a lot of effort for no gain. Another method is to find a way to apply local peer pressure. It is easy to ignore a guy thousands of miles away, but not so easy with someone you know. Is there anyone in the are the guy lives in that you know? Is there a fellow modeler you could find in the area that would talk to him? Think of this problem as trying to get a lazy kid to clean his room. Make it painful not to send the goods. If it does not work out, make sure you let the RCU guys know so nobody else gets burned. Good luck!!
Posted on: 12/3/2011 8:56 AM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10841269

RE: Tired Old Man and Jody
They both helped me, with direct responses to requests for help. Yes, I felt like I needed to do my homework, and when I missed something obvious, I was ready to take a beating. But my experience was that as long as you were in the game to solve the problem by researching yourself, they helped and were reasonable. I'll take solace in the huge legacy of posts that they leave behind. Most of our answers are there. If you guys see this, thanks again.
Posted on: 12/1/2011 9:21 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10839181

RE: I remember when.......
Best memory - The summer of 1967, as a 12 year old in Jax Florida, building the RCM Trainer from the magazine plans. I rigged up a foam wing cutter and my mom and I called the numbers off to each other. The elevator was, of course, reversed, was fixed at the field and boy, was that a thrill seeing it fly. Then passing the TX back and forth with my instructor ... the owner of Art's Hobby Shop (Mr. Chambers to me). Finally soloing ... wow. Life lesson memory - Getting my ass chewed by Mr. Chambers in his shop because I was an arrogant ass at the field, and would not listen after I crashed my trainer. I learned to listen to everyone fully, before deciding on the merits of the words. Also - K&B Superpoxy colors ... piles of cans in my shop Sanding my first fiberglass attempt ... again and again and ... Flying a Taurus with a K&B .60 Flying 72.195 and 72.080 Building a Sterling kit (carving an airplane from a block of balsa)
Posted on: 11/13/2011 2:39 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10810270

RE: Plans Christen Eagle OK Model/Pilot
A bit more data. The tail number is "N2FC" as opposed to the "N2EC" on the Indy kit. The wing braces between the wings attach with brass angle to hard points in the built up wing. The Indy kit has plastic pieces to do this. I do not think that this is the Indy, but rather the Pilot.
Posted on: 11/8/2011 8:24 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10803594

RE: Plans Christen Eagle OK Model/Pilot
I am the guy that has the Eagle kit. Photos attached, she is in sad shape but can be resurrected. The guy I bought it from sold it as an Indy kit, and there are even Indy instructions for a CEII, but they do not match what I have. I've included some pictures ... can you confirm this is the OK/Pilot kit? She has a top wingspan of 65.5". If you have the instruction sheets for this arf and could email or post them, I'd be in your debt ... not that I could pay you back. I'd be willing to pay postage and copy fees for hardcopy if that is easier. I really don't need the instructions except that the firewall puzzles me. There is no engine box to mount to, and these odd angle pieces are screwed to the firewall with tiny 4-40's. No way a big engine would stay attached to it as is. If I can't get instructions, I'll wing it and come up with my own design. Regards, Rikk
Posted on: 11/8/2011 7:53 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10803542

RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Thanks Larry. Appreciate the response.
Posted on: 11/6/2011 10:06 AM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10799381

RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
Gents - Thanks to your sage advice and expertise, I ran my G62's in my P-38 up today sucessfully. What a great engine! With both of them spinning 22x10's, the back of my legs hurt pretty badly holding her back. I used some 1/8"G10 and heavy cardstock gaskets that I had to mount the carb, that allows the carb to clear the cowl. I let them run for around 8 minutes, with no issues, and restarts were OK. Hopefully, no vapor lock in real life. The lower cowls were not installed so the real test of whether this thin an insulator will work once the engine truly heat soaks has to be run, but at least I know where to look if there is a problem. I checked the thermal conductivity coefficient for G10, and it is around 0.25 W/m/°K, where paper is 0.05. Aluminum is around 250. So, that G10 is a pretty darn good thermal insulator... I might be OK. I have some Twinsync problems to sort out now, but they are all my fault ... RFI from poor sensor location. I know what to do. Thanks again to all you guys!
Posted on: 11/5/2011 8:30 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10798711

RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
I really should not continue to respond to this attack, but here's the deal. I flew with reeds. I had a Kraft Gold Medal, and a Sport Series, which I still have. I train newcomers on a Hitec rig with mechanical trims. [quote]This is the problem with todays computer radios... Computer radios are to mechanics, as texting and email is to social skills. "Old School" is sometimes best. [/quote] I know when to use the features in a computer radio, and when not to. I use them, most often, when the instructions recommend using them. I am new to this device. I never said anything negative about it ... I was certain I was doing something wrong, and I came to the forum for help, and when it looked like another guy had the same issue, I asked ... HIM ... what he did. As it turns out, I probably did implement it incorrectly (nothing at all to do with ENDPOINTS at 100% ... isn't it obvious that just like every other surface, increasing the endpoints will give you more resolution, in this case, RPM resolution, which is a GOOD thing?), and I missed the Zenoah answer buried in the thread. Guilty of failing to read all 38 pages of the thread, but I did read the instructions.
Posted on: 11/5/2011 7:46 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10798672

RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Gents - Following an email I sent to Mr. Wike shortly after my post, which included all the info above, my phone rang. Not more than one hour later. Incredible. This is most likely RFI - I found somewhere around page 15 of this thread a detailed discussion of Zenoah implementation. I need to pull the sensor off the front where the engine ignition magnet is, and put it in the rear of the engine with a new magnet, fabricate a magnet disc attached to the exposed crankshaft end, a sensor bracket, and reroute the lead. I'll need to try shielding the ignition lead too. This is a long thread, so gas guys if you are having range and/or oscillation issues, find that discussion around page 15. Bill confirmed all that and more. Man, the guy knows his stuff, and stands behind it. Thanks, I do not need any more "help" from anyone right now until I make these changes.
Posted on: 11/5/2011 7:37 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10798665

RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Wow. Yes, as a matter of fact, I do read instructions. From the manual, page 11: If you want to do some advanced programming and get the most accurate synced RPM possible, then you should set your throttle end points at their maximum travel limits (120-150% depending on the brand of radio you have). Then mechanically adjust the linkage so that one limit kills the engine and the other has the carb at wide open. Then adjust your transmitter so that one limit is reach when you give the engine kill command. The other limit is achieved at full throttle. Continue to adjust your transmitter stick result in the idle that you want (without turning on the engine kill mix/override orwith the throttle trim up). Then after everything works like you want it to WITHOUT the synchronizer, install it and reprogram it to use your the new idle, sync point and full throttle positions. You know, it doesn't do anyone any good to flame like you did in the above. Totally uncalled for.
Posted on: 11/5/2011 7:25 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10798649

RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
I have exactly the same behavior that pairadice records, except on a P-38 with two G62's. The engines run fine when run direct to the RX, but with the Twinsync in line, they oscillate and surge constantly. I do not seem to be able to change the mode of operation from normal to acting like a Y when I am in Mode 3. S3004 servos, 6014HS Receiver. Magnets are the same ones used to time the CH ignition. My LEDs, 5 & 6 (Green) flash properly when the magnets go by. I also verified Mode 3 by LEDs as pairadice did. I also reset to default settings and the only thing I did before retrying was reverse one engine servo, and I stayed in Mode 1 with the same surging behavior. I set the gain at the slowest setting as a trial ... no change. Endpoints are 120 and 140%. Everything is fine at idle. My Twinsync was purchased new about 18 months ago. I assumed, until seeing pairadice's post, that I had RFI getting into the sensor lines from the engines, which would explain the erratic operation, and would also require a lot of work to move wires around by guessing. Pairadice has no RFI from ignitions. pairadice ... did you solve the problem?
Posted on: 11/5/2011 3:37 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10798345

RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
Thank you, sir. Makes sense.
Posted on: 10/27/2011 2:36 AM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10784676

RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
My curiosity has overwhelmed caution, so I have to ask this question of Antique ... As an authority not only on G62's, but the history of the engine, can you tell me why the pulse port holes on the carb and engine cylinder do not align? Fixing it is easy with the insulator, but one has to wonder why such a critical port is configured for failure by being offset. Is it because the two devices the engine and the carb were designed separately for other mating components, and they have been adapted as we see it in the G62? Or is it simply that there was no room in either component to locate the port exactly where it needed to be, so the problem was addressed in the insulator? It's not critical for me to know this, but I'm an engineer by trade and I find that interfaces are where designs usually get into trouble. They require two people or groups to communicate, which it is occasionally rumored that we engineers are not so good at. This appears to me to be a classic interface failure (the mating holes are in the wrong places), but often there are extenuating circumstances that force complication into an interface (like the need for an insulator with a wormhole to connect the two holes). This is by no means urgent, and if you don't have time to reply, no problem.
Posted on: 10/27/2011 1:14 AM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10784650

RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
Well, that explains the bandsaw marks on the plastic. I was wondering why a person would go to the trouble of making a large block and then shave it down ... I assumed the original owner made it. So, if I want to make these things, I assume fiberglas reinforced plastic, like G10 composite is OK. I have some Delrin as well. I'll look into the other commercial suggestions you guys put up. I got this plane for song, so I got what I paid for, and I've had to replace a lot of stuff. It has definately been a learning platform, which is good too. You gotta love RC ... if you think you got it all figured out, it will do what is necessary to humble you again. Give me a week, and I'll try to post some P-38 music for you guys.
Posted on: 10/26/2011 12:53 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10783765

RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
The pics Super08's last post ARE NOT MY ENGINE!! Not even ... close ....
Posted on: 10/25/2011 8:38 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10782815

RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
Solved. We all knew that this would not end well for me. I'm writing a full description of the problem for those that might encounter this later. Those of you that voted for the pulse port were right. I pulled both carbs in order to swap them. It is the first time I have had the carb from the good engine off. To my surprise, I found three pieces between the carb and the engine. A gasket, a thin (1/16") plastic piece, and another gasket. On the bad engine, there is only one gasket. Now, I've read about the need for the insulator for vapor lock. But as far as I knew, all it did was insulate. Wrong. On my G62's, the pulse port hole on the engine does not line up with the port on the HDA-48D carb ... exactly. They are offset from each other about 3/16". When you look at them quickly, it looks like they would line up ... but noooo. I'll refrain from asking the RC Gods why it is like this, and accept that it is. On my good engine, the plastic piece has the hole only lined up with the engine side, so all it does is provide a small amount of insulation. However, the GASKETon the carb side has a slot cut into it, to allow the pulse to travel through one gasket hole, through the plastic piece, and then get diverted to the carb hole through the carb gasket. When I looked at both carbs closely, there were knife scratches in the carb surface where the gasket had been slotted to allow this porting to occur. Pic 1,2,3 my engine. This is MY engine. Not a jump start. The other pics in earlier posts are NOT my engine. Sorry for the confusion .. it comes from trying to answer several people at once, but everyone thinks you are addressing them. My mistake (among others). Pic 4 the Bad engine, the contra rotating one, as it looks when you pull the carb. Note the only thing between them is the gasket ... no block or insulator. See how the pulse ports SEEM to be aligned? Pic 5 the good engine carb separation parts. There is another gasket left on the engine, so there are a total of three parts. Note the slot cut in the gasket in the pic, lower right. Note the gouges in the carb from cutting the slot. The plastic 1/16" separator is on the left ... it's hole aligns with the port on the engine. The gasket slot covers both engine and carb holes. Pic 6 gasket in place as I found it. This is how the pulse gets to the carb. Pic 7 as the plastic separator would go on. I have not tested it yet ... I'm out of time and I need to rethink the carb mounting now. I took it at face value that the carb mounting was OK on these engines, which was stupid, given the history of the plane. I need to research parts that might be used, and determine what to do with BOTH carb mounts now that I see how it works. If I missed the clues that you guys were giving me about these holes being offset in earlier posts, sorry for that. I learned a lot about G62's in the last two days, which is a good thing. Thanks to all for hanging in with me, sorry for the picture confusion midway through, and I hope this helps other guys that might see these symptoms. A particular thanks to Mr. Cunningham, who has provided great advice and offered to fix it for free. Of course, I am darn glad I did not take him up on it now ... oh, the razzing I would have taken! It is already going to be sooooo bad! Good night all, Rikk
Posted on: 10/25/2011 8:22 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10782797

RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
No black block. Bolts directly to engine. I'm pulling the pictures please disregard them. I'll post pics of my engine. Lesson learned.
Posted on: 10/25/2011 1:00 PM by Author "Lightning Fan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10782156