RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
The A-10 gear is designed with mechanical down-lock, so even there is zero air pressure it will be locked in down positon no problem.
Posted on: 9/6/2012 12:00 AM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11219179

RE: Weatronic 2.4 RF diagnostic tool
[quote]ORIGINAL: proline8000 DV4 none bluetooth [/quote] Proline8000: Thanks! I really have no idea now. Maybe I have to bring a hair dryer with my trans and modules to JetPower.
Posted on: 8/9/2012 6:16 AM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186785

RE: Weatronic 2.4 RF diagnostic tool
[quote]ORIGINAL: proline8000 I have been using my 14MZ the past two weekend and the temp was 100 F and not a problem. I also have an early adaptor and it so far has beed rock solid. I do not leave my transmitter out in the sun when not in use, it is in the case and in the shade. [/quote] Hello proline8000: May I ask you is your Weatronic Module DV3 or DV4? My three sets of DV4 module adapter have same problem in the same time. I have a set of DV3 module before and it performs flawless not like these.
Posted on: 8/9/2012 5:18 AM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186719

RE: Weatronic 2.4 RF diagnostic tool
Hi all: Today, I make an experiment to test how long the DV4 Futaba 14MZ module adapter will fail to send signal to Tx anttena when I move my transmitter from an air-conditioned room to a sun-shined place. It's not a really sunny day today but outside temperature is 36 degree and humidity is 64%. The initial Tx temperature is 29 degree. After 800 seconds later, the module adapter starts to quite working and the red light emmits four times flash error code( no signal), at the same time the Tx temperature is 53 degree( of course the temperature of module adapter is far lower than this). This experiment teaches me: if I want to land my plane one piece in summer, I have to store my transmitter in an air-conditioned car before flight and must complete one flight under sunshine in 800 seconds[&o], then put the transmitter back to the car cooling for next flight again.[:@]
Posted on: 8/8/2012 10:15 PM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186513

RE: Weatronic 2.4 RF diagnostic tool
There is no problem to just heat the Tx antenna to over 50 degree, but the problem is from module adapter for Futaba 14MZ. The Tx temperature shown on Gigacontrol is only the temperature of Tx anttenna, not include the module adapter. When the transmitter is just taken out of box and placed under sunshine the lighter Tx anttena heated quicker than high mass transmitter, the module adapter can keep cool for a while till whole system getting warm and the problem happened. I also check the logged data, when this problem was happened, the Tx temperature was only 45degree. I don't know if this problem only happened on DV4 module adapter for Futaba 14MZ or just because my 3 module adapters are early prodution batch of DV4.
Posted on: 8/7/2012 8:11 PM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11184924

RE: Weatronic 2.4 RF diagnostic tool
Hi all: My DV4 Tx/module adapter for Futaba 14mz was bought on 2011 JetPower. Today, I went to flight site to maiden my Mig-29. It was a sunny day and temperature was about 34 degree. I used one tank of fuel to complete taxing run test and everything was fine. But 30 minutes later after I refueled tank and switched the transmitter on, the control surfaces were respond in first 10 seconds then went into failsafe mode and no response any more. Then I connected the Tx to GigaControl and "no signal" was shown on "modulation" area of "transmitter configuration". I tried to figure out what wrong with my Tx on the field all day long but could not success. But when I was back home and turned the air condition on, the Tx was working normal again. Now, I can figure out it seems be a temperature relative issue. So I put the Tx antenna only into dish-dryer first and warm it up to 50degree then connect it to transmitter and it transmits signal solid. Next step, I warm the Tx module adapter to the same temperature and plug it back to transmitter, the problem comes back again. I do this test on another two sets of my spare Tx modules adapter and get the same result. Further more, I reduce the test temperature and find this problem can be happened on any temperature just above 40 degree. I'm glade this problem was happened on the ground and can not believe the Tx module adapter can be failed possibly just because I place my transmitter under sunshine( it is very easy to excess 40degree under sunshine on a normal summer day in Taiwan). How can I do now? Or I just can run this Tx set on winter or cloudy day? Best regards Li Kai
Posted on: 8/7/2012 12:54 PM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11184550

RE: Skymaster ARF Plus 1:5 scale F-104G
The damping rate of main gear seems be a little soft that causes unstable ground handling on roll-axis. A smaller damping-oil hole or higher viscosity damping-oil in the main dampers are needed.
Posted on: 2/19/2012 5:18 PM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10966570

RE: Weatronic 2.4 RF diagnostic tool
Hi Mike: Thanks for your answer.
Posted on: 11/22/2011 3:59 AM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10823508

RE: Weatronic 2.4 RF diagnostic tool
[/quote] Li, I have noticed this as well with my JR 12x and using JR 8411's and JR 8711's with my Wea 12-22R Gyro 3. When using a JR receiver the servo movement is smooth and crisp, when using the Wea they are ''notchy'' ie. you can see the small steps as they move and the control surface has a ''softer'' feel ( for lack of a better description). I tried different servo pulses in Giga control but, was never able to resolve the issue. Mike [/quote] Hi Mike Did you fly the model already? Is this "step" issue can be felt in flight? Best regards
Posted on: 11/21/2011 8:53 PM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10823253

RE: Weatronic 2.4 RF diagnostic tool
[quote]ORIGINAL: STAN-CAUSSEL [quote]ORIGINAL: eraysa ... -Can someone confirm that they have been flying firmware 2.56 with no problem, .... Regards Eray Savci [/quote] Hi I made 6 flights with Firm 2.56 on a 12/22R II gyros into my A10. No problem at all. Regards Stan [/quote] Hi Stan: How are you? We met in JetPower two monthes ago. I install a DR-12-22 in my A-10. All servos used on the control surfaces are JR 8911 and my transmitter is Futaba 14MZ. When I apply a stick input, I can find the servo moves not so smoothly but a little step by step. When I connect the servo to a Futaba receiver, it moves smoothly. So I can confirm the servo is no problem. I wonder the problem is from my GIGA-Control setting but not sure. Anybody has same problem? Best regards
Posted on: 11/21/2011 5:35 PM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10823021

RE: Weatronic 2.4 RF diagnostic tool
Hello Oli: Thanks for your reply. I have an older US spec Weatronic DV3 Tx module which operates with 72.090Mhz no problem but only can get 12 channels. The newer DV4 can provide 12-16 channels and you have to select FASST 2.4Ghz mode to make it working. Best regards
Posted on: 11/6/2011 10:24 PM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10800373

RE: Weatronic 2.4 RF diagnostic tool
Hi all: I bought three sets of DV4 Tx module for myself and two of my friends in JetPower, all our transmitters are Futaba 14MZ. I just tested it this morning, but when I powered on the switch, an error message" Mismatched RF-module" was shown on the screen. The same problem was happened many years ago when I plugged a USA spec Futaba TM-14 2.4G module in my Japan spec 14MZ transmitter, that was a region code problem. I solved the problem by using a program from website to change the region code of my transmitter from Japan to USA. Now, the problem happens again, I have to change the region code from USA to European to make the Weatronic DV4 module working and dump my USA spec TM-14 module. For me, this is not a big problem because I manage to install Weatronic receivers in all of my models. But for my friends who still want to use Futaba Tx module on their old models, this will be a big trouble. The only solution I can find is buying an European spec Futaba TM-14 module to keep old stuff working, but it's sound like a stupid idea. Anyone can help me for this problem?
Posted on: 11/6/2011 7:05 PM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10800124

RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
The main gear up-lock modify kit will be sent to customers free charge( please contact Skymaster) and installed on new ordered airframe in factory.
Posted on: 6/20/2011 9:11 PM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10584506

RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
Here is the solution to lock the main gear on up- position and prevent the main gear pull out by high +G load. It is very simple, a small air cylinder and ply wood mounting bracket, that's all. There is a spring in the cylinder to pull the cylinder rod return for unlocking and an air tube connect to the cylinder supplies air pressure for up-locking. So this is a failsafe design, if air pressure is out, the main gear will unlocking and down automatically. The air line of this up-locking cylinder is connected to the air line of close-side of nose gear door cylinder, so no extra control valve and sequence setting are needed. This is meaning when nose gear door is closed, the main gear up-locking is actived in the same time.
Posted on: 6/20/2011 9:06 PM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10581836

RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
[quote]ORIGINAL: Alex48 Hi Anton The new pipes I've installed are the same angle as the kit pipes, I was careful not to change anything, I even measured the angle on both pipes side by side which was the same. I found the old pipes exited the nacelle perpendicular to the rear most part of the nacelle and so do the custom made Grumania pipes, They are however much longer as the kit pipes were not long enough to work with the Merlin 140's. When I see Ali's A10 next I'll have a close look at the pipe installation and compare it to the kit pipes. Cheers, Alex [/quote] Hi Alex: Is the diameter of your custom pipe larger than Skymaster standard one? Skymaster A-10 pipe is a little small for K-170 turbine and cause heat problem. So I made large pipes for the customer in Taiwan, they are 10mm larger than Skymaster pipes and installed in the same angle as original. I found once we trim up the elevator to keep the plane fly level on full throttle and then suddenly back the throttle to idle, the plane will climb slightly. I think it is caused by insufficient up thrust angle. The reason is that our larger diameter pipe can not deflect the exhaust flux upward as much as small pipe, even they are installed in the same angle. So installing the big pipe more upward angle or adjusting the turbine exhaust corn a little upward may solve this problem. We will try this in Taiwan next week. I think this is a small problem and easy to fix, in fact our customer in Taiwan could not feel this problem before I told him to suddenly back throttle to idle from full power. He still made several excellent flights this Wednesday. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rPTMKwSxMw
Posted on: 6/17/2011 3:48 AM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10578285

RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
Hello Alex48: The main struts compression in your picture is OK. In fact, compare to real thing, it is still a little higher. The other thing that I find in your pictures is that you'd better to rotate the brake 180 degree to place the brake line nipple on the downside to avoid the nipple be damaged by compressed strut and please inflat the main tires to 143mm of diameter.
Posted on: 5/9/2011 7:36 AM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10509871

RE: PowerBox or Not ?
[quote]ORIGINAL: DelGatoGrande [quote]ORIGINAL: David Gladwin At the moment they are 12 channels only , I guess more will come, in time. Regards, David. [/quote] 1 aileron 2 elevator 3 rudder 4 stearing (center when gear is up) 5 flaps 6 slats 7 throtle 8 ecu AUX 9 smoke 10 airbrake 11 powerbox failsafe 12 MPDX1 FUTABA DECODER 13 retracts 14 brakes 15 lights(remote swich) 16 afterburner(remote swich) 17 shute i use the PowerBox Royal to run the first 7 main vital sufraces and i use the futaba decoder that can pump out up to 28 ch http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLZH6 sorry but Futaba FASST for me with PowerBox. cheers .... [/quote] Hello DelGatoGrande: I just try to connect MPDX-1 to my new Weatronic DR-12-30, it is working. Now, my DR-12-30 becomes a 26 channels system. I think there are enough channels for me.[:D][:D]
Posted on: 3/15/2011 11:38 PM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10403027

RE: Skymaster A-10
[quote]ORIGINAL: cgrcjet Was curious. Are those struts casted or machined and bead blasted? Seems they would be much cheaper to cast with all the detail, over machining them. I am thinking about venturing in on doing some aluminum casting but am thinking it would not be quite as strong as to being machined. Maybe im wrong. Nice A-10, keep up the good work. chris [/quote] The struts are CNC machined from billet 7075 alloy block then sand blasted. They are very strong but can not be made cheaper than casted.
Posted on: 3/15/2011 1:29 AM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10400825

RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
[quote]ORIGINAL: Alex48 Hi Scott Looking good...... Have you tried to cycle the gear yet? Before I started to paint it I put a pump on each gear in turn to check the operation. The rams don't unlock unless you put pressure on the ram itself can't see how they are going to work once put back together? All three rams are the same so I'm presuming this s normal and all will become clear once the gear is installed (I hope) Are yours the same? Can you get them to work without putting any pressure on the ram. Thanks for your help. Cheers, Alex [/quote] Hello Alex: The retract cylinder is designed to operate with 2-way air-valve. Please connnect two nipples of cylinder to a 2-way valve( electrical or mechanical), it will work fine. The the cylinder in attached pictures is used in A-4 nose gear and same design as the cylinder used in A-10.
Posted on: 2/22/2011 8:53 AM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10355154

RE: Mig29 Retracts
Hello sir: The retract cylinder is designed to operate with 2-way air-valve. Please connnect two nipples of cylinder to a 2-way valve( electrical or mechanical), it will work fine. The the cylinder in attached pictures is used in A-4 nose gear and same as the cylinder used in Mig-29.
Posted on: 2/21/2011 1:59 AM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10352011

RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
[quote]ORIGINAL: Alex48 I'm a little annoyed that the gear isn't painted as it was supposed to be so now I have to spend hours doing it myself. On the plus side it gave me a good look at the gear while I disassembled it. I know I've said it before but its very good!! Got it all in bits degreased and ready to prime with some acid etch. A few things to note though........ some of the screws were very loose and one of the brakes had completely stuck. One tyre had no air in it and the other scared the shi*t out of me as it made a massive bang as I undid it. I now have a nice round indent on the ceiling where the hub hit it. I dread to think how much pressure was in it. The other tyre was about right......... [/quote] Don't worry about how much pressure of tyre, I never measure the pressure just measure the diameter of tyre. Pump air in the tyres and make main tyres reaching 143mm of OD and nose tyre reaching 100mm of OD. Be careful not to apply paint on sliding shaft of strut and push rod of cylinder, that will damage the oil seal.
Posted on: 2/8/2011 5:41 PM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10322025

RE: has anybody built a skymaster A4 Skyhawk
[quote]ORIGINAL: JockeJ Hi Vincent! The gear looks realy good and it operates as it should. The nosegear  extends to full length and goes back to being compressed when i retract the gear. So i can not shorten the noseleg after i have extended it whitout retracting it. The Motor has 16kg of thrust so its a little bit to much for this model but i dont have go full throttle  all the time:-). I dont know why there is no country markings on this paintjob but the fullsize dont have any markings either! Yeahbaby! Yes there is two wingspars. I will give you more pictures as the build goes on! Regards: Joachim Johansson                   Sundsvall Sweden [/quote] Hello Joachim: The pictures are my air pipe arrangement for SM A-4 nose gear, pretty simple. Using this set up, you can control the height of nose gear as you wish when nose gear down. The 2-way electronic valve in the picture is connected to a Rx channel as you want. When nose gear up the air pressure source of this electronic valve is bleed out, so the nose gear can be shorten and retracted without resistance. Best regards Li Kai
Posted on: 12/3/2010 7:29 AM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10173618

RE: Oil for SM nose strut
Hi Buck: I think your F-4 nose strut is is early model and there is no filling port on the strut body, it is spring supported and oil damped design. To fill oil in the nose strut, you have to unscrew a 2mm bolt on the torque links then pull out the sliding shaft and now you can fill oil into the strut. The volume of oil for nose strut is about 7.5ml, but you can slightly adjust it for your favorite nose height setting. Best regards Li Kai
Posted on: 4/19/2010 12:05 AM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9671483

RE: 2.4 GHz Weatronics, PPM or PCM?
[quote]ORIGINAL: David Gladwin Switch OFF your transmitter, switch back ON then immediately press the bind button, firmly. My guess is it will bind. Regards, David. [/quote] Thanks very much, it's working now.
Posted on: 9/30/2009 2:47 AM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9135052

RE: 2.4 GHz Weatronics, PPM or PCM?
[quote]ORIGINAL: gerhardp Hi Likai, Go to Frequency 72.090 and let me know. Gerhard [/quote] Hi Gerhard: I tunned the frequency to 72.090 Mhz, but still could not binding modual and receiver, the green lights on each other were just blinking and not go solid. Any English manual out there for this 2.4G 12-30 GyroIII GPS ?
Posted on: 9/29/2009 9:22 PM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9134416

RE: 2.4 GHz Weatronics, PPM or PCM?
I just got my US version 2.4Ghz 12-30 gyroIII GPS set today. My Tx is US version Futaba T14MZ, I want to know which frequency should be chosen in PPM mode? (35.250Mhz is for European verson)
Posted on: 9/28/2009 10:36 AM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9129729

RE: Skymaster Wheel Leaking
Hello Keith: If the leaking is from the junction of the tire and the rim, the problem must be caused by damaged tire rubber, tiny pin hole or small crack are exist in this area and cause leaking. Changing new tires will solve the problem. If you can see bubbles from nipple in water, the leaking is from the 42mmX3.5mm O-ring which acts as a check-valve. Taking it out and lubricating by thick silicon oil and assembling it again will solve the problem. The 50mmX1mm O-ring is just for sealing two half of rims, it is only functional when you are inflating the tire, so it will not cause tire leaking. Please send me your address for sending new tires to you. Best regards
Posted on: 8/12/2009 10:20 PM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9012027

RE: SKYMASTER VIPERJET ASSEMBLE THREAD
[quote]ORIGINAL: CraigG [quote]ORIGINAL: skymaster-usa Hello Graig. The items in the picture are for pressurizing your struts. Here is a link to the instructions. http://www.skymasterjet.com/oleolegs.htm [/quote] Wow, that's quite a process! My struts seem to be fine. Is this an initial setup deal or something that must be repeated from time to time? Thanks, Craig [/quote] Hello Gaig. These items are for maintenance purpose, the operation principle is same as the struts of full scale planes, the air and oil can keep in the struts for several months. Usually, you just need to adjust the air pressure of struts when you feel the ground clearance of the plane is too low. The air pressure for the struts of Viper are about 30-45psi for main and 15-25psi for nose when they are not loaded by weight of the plane. Best regards
Posted on: 3/20/2009 10:32 PM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8599185

RE: Skymaster F-86 1/5 first products
[quote]ORIGINAL: ianober Love the detail in the mold Anton, looks great. What is going to power the prototype? Any shots of the gear? [/quote] Pictures of the main gear and functional scale brakes.
Posted on: 2/28/2009 11:43 AM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8527972

RE: Skymaster F-86 1/5 first products
[quote]ORIGINAL: ianober Love the detail in the mold Anton, looks great. What is going to power the prototype? Any shots of the gear? [/quote] Here are some pictures of the nose gear.[:D]
Posted on: 2/28/2009 11:38 AM by Author "Likai" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8527960