RE: FOFF build.
Ah, it's a Hot racing kit I believe.
Posted on: 1/12/2012 8:51 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10905001

RE: NEW!!! Official Traxxas XO-1 1/7 onroad....
I like that this thread is full of people who blatantly don't understand electric power. But carry on arguing over nothing. It's funny. Car looks wicked, as Miamiz first post stated right back at the start of the thread, this is a properly engineered vehicle with a decent electric setup using a large, low KV motor and HV. This is how all cars should be setup, it makes me cry everytime someone uses 7.4v and a 9000kv castle motor to go quick. This is efficient and cool running. Don't see the fuss really, it's not like Traxxas have stopped making other cars to make this one, or stopped other companies from making cars to make this one. They want to push the boundaries a bit, let them. If they want to throw a large amount of money down the drain then let them, it is after all their money. Don't want one, don't buy one, do feel free to say why, however make sure they are coherent reasons and not just make believe fantasy land conjecture. I'm all for free speech, but I sometimes think it is slightly too easy for people to mind dump their often ill informed opinions all over the internet.
Posted on: 1/7/2012 8:38 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric On-Road vehicles, race cars and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10896244

RE: FOFF build.
Bodyshell is just to show how big it is, roughly the same size as a 1/10th shortcourse. It will, of course, be run naked. It may sprout some alloy or carbon body panels but they will be purely functional to keep dirt and sand out of the more vital workings of the truck. Right, this isn't going to look like much of an update, but I've pulled a 5 hour stint tonight getting some stuff sorted out on the Foff. The shafts are in and linked up, along with the motor. This required a total strip to pull the hardened pinion drives out and grind them down to 5mm to fit the driveshafts. This was done with a vice and a flat file. :blink: So it put me back a bit. Next I dry fitted everything, only to find that my pinion angle on the rear was too great, and was binding up the shafts. To add insult to injury, when I fitted the motor it meant that one of my rear link mounts was interfered with, so I had to make new rear links, again, and re-position them on the truck. Had to get a bit funky with them too, so they are now bent and mounted to the outside on the rear. Seems to work ok, not too much wierd suspension movement. This is probably the most complicated and tricky suspension I have worked on, never messed with 4 link before and it's probably consumed 20 hours just fiddling with it to get it working right. Lastly, I pulled the shocks off and rebuilt them in droop setting, IE swapping the inner springs around so they all have around 6mm of compression and 25mm of rebound. This means the truck sits slammed on the ground, has about 5mm of uptravel so is better for hill climbing and still has around 50 degrees of articulation when it is required. I believe this is the best of all worlds and is really the only way to go with this truck. [IMG]http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/1422/dscf0848r.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/105/dscf0842tw.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/5747/dscf0845n.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/3890/dscf0847s.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/267/dscf0850i.jpg[/IMG] Wheelbase sits at 13.2" now, and all up weight with electronics and battery mocked in is only 4.6 lbs so performance should be pretty dynamite on 3s. Tomorrow will be electronics fitting time and I may strip it and rebuild it to make sure everything is just so. I think it looks bad ***, so it will not change anymore now.
Posted on: 1/5/2012 6:55 PM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10893957

RE: FOFF build.
Roight, so like I said I had a few reservations about the setup of the tranny in the R1 chassis. I ended up cutting the cage to fit it and didn't like the weakness it introduced into the chassis. So I binned that idea and went on the hunt for a new chassis, finding out that Gmade had just released a new 2.2 version of my favouritest chassis ever, the Stealth. I decided to stop messing about and ordered a gmade tranny to fit in it properly as well. The stealth tranny is about 10mm wider, so there's more room to breathe in there. Got the shocks mounted, and as she sits she needs shafts and the leccy bits mounting (received some 2000mah 3s 40c lipos that fit nice). Ran into an issue with the shafts because of a stupid oversight I made, Gmade output is 5mm and wheely king axle pinion drive is 6mm. So to use the nice carbosteel shafts I got I will have to file a mm of material off the axle drives. :banghead: Anyway, enough babbling. Here is how she looks now. [IMG]http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/1985/dscf0823e.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/8854/dscf0812.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/7014/dscf0822s.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/4527/dscf0815t.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/1340/dscf0816q.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/8121/dscf0821bg.jpg[/IMG] As you can see, it sits under a Blitz bodyshell nicely, and has quite a bit of flex still. I will limit the movement of the shocks before use to kill the ride height a bit. Looks a bit 'tippy' to me.
Posted on: 1/5/2012 1:59 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10892469

RE: Associated 8.2E or the rc8E??
Thunderbirdjunkie, your opinion makes little sense. You say that 1/8th buggy racing is the pinnacle of RC racing, yet shun a method of propulsion that makes them faster and more efficient. And you shun it solely because as a by-product it makes it 'easier'. You then go on to say that tuning a nitro vehicle is easy anyway, totally negating your own argument. I take it someone has never attempted to set up a fully adjustable race brushless system to put 3+ hp to the ground useably in varying track conditions. Compared to tuning a nitro motor, that is incredibly difficult. The instant power and torque available from a direct drive big block brushless setup is a double edged sword, and unless great care is taken in setup, tire choice and suspension all that power is more likely to just spin the tires and send the car into the fencing. Come into the 21st century, away form your lightly modified pump, run a successful 1/8th e-buggy then come back and talk smack about them.
Posted on: 12/26/2011 3:55 PM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10877139

RE: FOFF build.
I'm full of turkey and cheap imported lager, but pushed on with the build today. Sat looking at the tranny for about an hour before deciding to throw caution to the wind and go about it and the cage with a knife. Cut down the tranny mounting nubs down one side, fitted the new motor plate, filled it with alloy (for now) gears, bunged the spur back on it and sized it into the available gap. [IMG]http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/8224/dscf0793f.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/3108/dscf0796q.jpg[/IMG] Bit of cutting to the battery and radio plates, drilled new tranny mount holes in the chassis floor and 'released' a bit of space around the spur and bobs your uncle, she was in. In order to line the spur up in a convenient gap in the cage I had to move the entire chassis plate backwards. This required me to re cut all my links as they join to it and were no longer the correct length... Joy! Upside is they are now finalised and I am happy with the geometry. Only thing I have really left to do on the tranny is just fit a top brace to support the motor. Presently it is supported by only three screws in the bottom and there is more movement than i would like. [IMG]http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/3386/dscf0798t.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/9155/dscf0799s.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/7443/dscf0800n.jpg[/IMG] Also mock fitted my electronics, battery will go right side and be a small 3s pack of about 22-2500 mah. [IMG]http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8541/dscf0806k.jpg[/IMG] Now just waiting on my shafts and shocks. :nice:
Posted on: 12/25/2011 10:26 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10875646

RE: new trucks need help
Shame, the Gambler is an awesome racing chassis. Looks like Venom's inability to get anything to the market in a decent time scale has shot them in the foot again. Blitz is a great truck. I'd consider a Gambler for racing but I'm pretty much veteran. If you are relatively new to the game then a not particularly well supported truck is bad news for bashing. My blits is tough as all heck and is one of the nicest put together and designed trucks I have owned (out of 35 ish). Evader with a metal tranny is good, never heard any complaints about them other than the drivetrain being a bit delicate with big power. Though, if you are looking at the Evader, why not look at the E-firestorm? It's just a short Blitz.
Posted on: 12/24/2011 11:25 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10874662

RE: FOFF build.
Hehe, cheers for the comments guys. Christmas came a day early today. Top links are now properly mounted, panther sand paddles mounted up on the rims, rear end locked out properly. Got my clocked motor plate and metal gears so I can start building up the tranny. Only short the Zero shocks and the Junfac shafts and then I can load the radio/power into it. Love this Gmade chassis, it's so light that the oil in the springless shocks supports it! [IMG]http://img862.imageshack.us/img862/6121/dscf0786.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/774/dscf0787pu.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/9707/dscf0788c.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/8484/dscf0789i.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/7498/dscf0790q.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/9750/dscf0791i.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/5009/dscf0792u.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 12/24/2011 10:51 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10874620

RE: FOFF build.
Have a bit more progress to show you folks. Spaced out the front shock setup properly in it's new position and made up some top links, 50mm rods with gmade rod ends fits niceee. Fitted a Gmade option shock brace to the rear. Really happy with the stance and travel with present arrangement. [IMG]http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/6586/dscf0767w.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/8061/dscf0771u.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/9554/dscf0766t.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/2197/dscf0772d.jpg[/IMG] Flexin'... [IMG]http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/3370/dscf0762ii.jpg[/IMG] With body panels... [IMG]http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/5145/dscf0783t.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/6822/dscf0778nx.jpg[/IMG] Royal fail's traditional christmas farce is playing merry hell with my build schedule. Not sure how they are never ready for Christmas, it tends to happen every year. Need top mounts and my clocked motor plate so I can get the suspension together properly and rebuild the tranny. decided i'm going to convert the spur to mod-1 then cut down the excess plate to fit it in the Gmade chassis lying down. Had I known it was going to take this long i'd have made the parts myself :banghead:
Posted on: 12/20/2011 4:20 PM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10868823

RE: FOFF build.
Just mocking up possible shock positions. [IMG]http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/6814/dscf0753n.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/9021/dscf0757u.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/4403/dscf0758r.jpg[/IMG] This rig is going to have about an inch of articulation, so not too fussed about axle steer
Posted on: 12/16/2011 1:37 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10861937

RE: FOFF build.
Got the Gmade chassis, trick little bit of kit. [IMG]http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/7016/dscf0745.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/6595/dscf0746u.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/8514/dscf0748x.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/4573/dscf0749n.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/6350/dscf0750eo.jpg[/IMG] A few observations: 1) May have to stand the Wheely King tranny up to fit it between the rails. sits on it's side fine and a couple of the pre drilled holes actually line up with it, but the massive spur gear is going to be an issue. I'll wait and see how tight I can package the tranny before I consign it to the bin and go with an AX10/Gmade tranny though. 2) Wheelbase is smack bang on 13.5" with the extended 'King lower links, so these shall be reused for this. New top links shall be made. Well chuffed with how that worked out. :chug: 3) The long wheelbase means that (after some measuring and musing) the 90mm Zero Gmade shocks are a perfect fit to maintain the low slung stance. A set has been ordered. 4) I'm glad I ordered a new set of Junfac shafts for this thing, they are 10mm longer each. My present shafts are too short. 5) Gmade chassis is immensely cool, and I am now thinking of gettin an R1 as it looks like it'd be a quality item to go crawling with anyway. :nice: 6) I may chop the front shock mount tubes off and fit the shocks to the chassis lower down depending on where they come out with the size and look I want to maintain.
Posted on: 12/16/2011 12:07 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10861913

RE: FOFF build.
Being stuck in the UK is fine so long as you don't want any decent quality parts. Stripped the center gearbox in anticipation of some stronger gears and removed the top link mount and links from the axles. Also did away with the STRC lockout I had on the rear axle to make way for a more elegant solution which will take into account the new 4 link upper mount. Royal Fail dropped a 'we missed you, like we always do' card through my letterbox today whilst I was at work so hopefully some shiny bits have turned up. ^_^ [IMG]http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/1315/dscf0742c.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/9692/dscf0743d.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/7500/dscf0744a.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 12/16/2011 12:06 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10861911

FOFF build.
This however will be my first build with a nod to scale touches. [IMG]http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/3770/dscf0726t.jpg[/IMG] I had a wheely king that I enjoyed as stock for a while but soon got bored. I wanted to change it up a bit, so I got a crawler kit. Naturally the lengthened wheelbase had me trying on old Savage shells and various Madforce covers. I kind of came to the conclusion that I wanted to build a FOFF (Formula Off Road) vehicle out of it. [IMG]http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/7065/670x377imagel.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img815.imageshack.us/img815/1973/dscf0734v.jpg[/IMG] Teardown begins in ernest. We will only be needing the axles and center tranny for this build... [IMG]http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/7558/dscf0741h.jpg[/IMG] Performance is still very much the aim here. Servo has been lumped on to the axle and there is little heed given to 'anatomically' correct suspension. However, I plan on using a Gmade R1 tube chassis for now, then building my own custom tuber frame in the new year. I have always wanted to make one from scratch. Motor will be clocked round to sit on top of the tranny, which will be layed down, bolted to the bottom of the Gmade chassis. Axles will be converted to 4-link using some new top link mounts to make mounting the links to the chassis easier. [IMG]http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/967/dscf0739c.jpg[/IMG] The stance I will be shooting for, links just over level. [IMG]http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/5360/gtblack1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/9092/paht470f.jpg[/IMG] Wheels and tires I have ordered. [IMG]http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/1815/r1chassisset1.jpg[/IMG] Gmade chassis, in case anyone has never seen one. This build won't come out looking anything like the example above, so don't hold your breath. However I hope it will capture the spirit of the FOFF concept, and when I get round to brazing up a chassis in the new year I hope it will get pretty close to the 1:1.
Posted on: 12/16/2011 12:05 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10861907

RE: Official ECX Torment Thread
First thing I thought when I saw it was a Slash and a Strike having a baby. To learn Losi have something to do with it was not surprising. I guess they had to do something with all those left over strikes eh?[:)] Still, looks like a good truck. Plenty of good reviews anyway.
Posted on: 12/15/2011 11:59 PM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10861903

RE: High torque 10x10 or any 3+ Axle vehicles
Two long chassis rails, laddered, with 6 suspension mount points. If you want serious off road ability and massive torque I would suggest going live axle. No point going at it half assed, so I would suggest picking up some Gmade portal axles, they do complete kits of two axles. http://www.junfac.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=336 They run $108 for a pair so you would need to drop $324 to get the 6. The axles are pretty innovative, not to menion scale looking with the alloy diff cover, and you have insane gearing options thanks to the portal drive as well as high ground clearance. Plus you can run servos directly on the axles so no long complicated linkages. The chassis should be relatively easy, fab in mounts for a couple of transmissions of your choice (I would go with E-maxx BL edition trannies, plentiful on e-bay and very strong) and run 4 high torque brushed motors (I said high torque, not Summit 775 tat). Would be pretty cool, and a bit different.
Posted on: 12/11/2011 12:58 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10853841

RE: HPI decision to make
What is your budget? The Savage XS would be the best bet. Latest and greatest and apparently tough as all hell. The Bullet is a nice little machine indeed, if a tad redundent with the release of the beasty little Savage.
Posted on: 12/11/2011 12:36 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10853837

RE: Merry Christmas from Caster Racing USA
Lol! Cheers Caster, I know it's the thought that counts.
Posted on: 12/11/2011 12:32 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10853833

RE: Associated RC10T4.1 - How strong is the transmission?
And then there is me, who got through a large amount of diff internals/ring gears on a 3s velineon setup in a slash. The Traxxas tranny is pretty tough, but inconsistently so in my experience. A well built Traxxas tranny can still be a bit of a grenade, whereas a well built stealth tranny will pretty much fail at exactly the same point every time. They are far more easy to set up around.
Posted on: 11/15/2011 3:47 PM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10813802

RE: Does VXL care?
Mostly it's down to bullpoke ratings. A VXL rated at 200 amps continuous may, under ideal conditions, and for a very short time, handle 200 amps. It depends on the quality of batteries you use, the ambient temperature, the cleanliness of the controller, humidity etc. I believe the VXL is rated based on it's fets, so the total theoretical current it can handle is 200 amps. Those fets are probably rated at around 25 degress centigrade and things get less efficient as they get hotter. Natural running temp for an ESC is probably 50 degrees centigrade, so figure that amp rating cut in half under normal use straight away. Incidentally this is why Hobbywing's 35a and 60a controllers seem underrated, they are honestly rated by the factory based on actual testing rather than just adding up loads of ideal world make believe numbers. Hence the reason whilst people burn up VXLs in Maxxs and revos, HW 60a controllers manage quite well and are also 4s capable. Also if you actually build a brushless system capable of pulling much over 60a in normal use, i'll show you a badly built brushless system. A correctly set up 1/5th scale brushless system should surge 60 amps, maybe an average of 35 amps continuous perhaps.
Posted on: 8/21/2011 9:06 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10680009

RE: Sleepy's T4 Evo
Aye 4 years in the future and technology has moved on. Dump the 2s setup and go 6s with a custom made lightweight 6 cell pack. Use a low KV motor for efficiency and gear it to the moon.
Posted on: 8/21/2011 8:32 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10679978

RE: Losi TLR 22 Buggy (Pics)
These are extremely nice looking buggies. Despite the couple of quality control issues you ran into, the kit is vey high end by the looks of it. I too agree with buying the best quality kit for bashing, if it's made for racing then it's likely to stand up to 'youthful' exuberance. The body and paint on yours looks very nice indeed.
Posted on: 8/21/2011 5:14 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10679787

RE: Kyosho
Probably worth a bit more than that to a collector. Snap their hand off. Kyosho is pretty much a guarantee of excellent quality, of course it's also a guarantee of parts being a bastard to find.
Posted on: 8/21/2011 5:02 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10679782

RE: Brushless XLB...
I have a Mammoth Pro and have often thought about converting it to brushless. If you want a few ideas, I believe Fine Designs RC did a Mammoth conversion kit, most of which would probably fit on the XLB. There are videos on youtube with them converted with a Castle Creations setup if you want an idea of performance.
Posted on: 5/29/2011 11:44 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10546691

RE: 24V flux is BAD TO THE BONE
Sorry, but it's probably the most pointless truck I have ever seen. Considering a standard Flux almost never breaks (indeed, the only thing that really breaks on a stock Flux is the drivetrain, which is being put under more pressure in this pig iron truck) all these mods for 'durability' don't count for squat. It's just bling for the sake of bling. You also overpaid considerably for the truck as aftermarket extras DON'T increase the second hand value of something. Hence the reason you can go on E-bay and buy a heavily modified drag race Ford Mustang for less than you can buy an original, unmolested one. My Flux has a near 18 inch wheelbase, wears LST shocks and weighs just over 15lbs RTR, it's a seriously imposing, impressive truck. That's how you modify. And If I sell it, I won't be asking more than $500 for it, because it ain't worth more than a new one.
Posted on: 4/21/2011 12:35 AM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10475929

RE: MMP/2400 Combo, what are safe temps?
As a rule: Motor absolute limit: 200f after then, the rotor will demag and temps will increase exponentially. Motor safe range: 0-170f kept below this a motor will have a long and happy life. ESC absolute limit: 190f but most have fans/thermal shutdown before then. Lipo absolute limit: 140f much more than that and they'll go into thermal runaway and you'll have a fire on your hands.
Posted on: 3/23/2011 3:11 PM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10418377

RE: Arrma RC
Nope. The SC-R isn't an RTR DB is it? The Ultima DB is based on the RTR Ultima SC, so unless you throw $ at it to bring it up to SC-R spec you will run into issues with bending driveshafts, melting diffs and leaking shocks. I worded it incorrectly, but the Ultima is almost certainly a better design than the XXX but what makes it quick also makes it fragile, which is what the SC-R addresses.
Posted on: 3/23/2011 2:26 PM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10418291

RE: Arrma RC
[quote]ORIGINAL: thehuntingterminator well, i've looked at the Kyosho too. but its 1/9th scale and parts for a Losi would be 10x easier to find than for a Kyosho. so the Losi seems to be a better choice.  [/quote] They are all 1/9th scale as they are based on a shortcourse length chassis. The Losi and Kyosho are the same length as a 1/8th buggy. The Kyosho is almost certainly higher quality but is likely to be less durable due to it's racer focused design.
Posted on: 3/22/2011 11:38 PM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10417153

RE: 1/5 scale
You could build a decent motor yourself, or if you don't know what you are doing, dump a ton of money at the door of a reputable engine builder to put you together an engine that will pull a house down. It's best not to go nuts though, especially if you are just starting out. I'd buy a 5b SS kit and learn as you build. Asking how fast everything is is a sure sign of a noob. Also, don't get confused with speed. 1/8ths will be considerably faster than 1/5ths around almost any track, 1/5ths are too heavy and cumbersome to be effective. Even a stock Revo MT will tear a Baja 5b a new arse on a track.
Posted on: 3/22/2011 3:39 PM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10416370

RE: Arrma RC
Hmmm. There is also the Kyosho Ultima DB. There are a few more of these around now.
Posted on: 3/22/2011 3:30 PM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10416361

RE: Bump this thread everytime you spend $100+ on RC Cars/Trucks
Bump. Set of phaltlines for the DB17 = £64 Set of suspension arms for DB17 =£14 Lipo Charger and 2 lipos for Micro SCT £40 Call it $150 If only the thread was around when I was building the DB, i could have bumped it with £1500 [:D]
Posted on: 3/22/2011 3:23 PM by Author "Lilredmachine" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10416351