RE: Help Identify this plane older biwing
If it originally flew without the interplane struts, then I would see no need to add them now. "The standoffs from the fuselage" are the cabane struts. According to a story I once heard about the Fokker Dr1, the original plane was produced without interplane struts, but the pilots were so afraid to fly the plane that the manufacturer added the struts on later versions. I may have this story confused with the D7, but I do know that many of the Fokker planes did not have flying wires and depended upon a cantilever wing for structural support.
Posted on: 5/15/2013 9:07 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11512258

RE: Work Bench Finish
I covered my workbench with formica that I got pretty cheap at one of the local lumber yard surplus stores. The only color they had was yellow, but the price was great. It seems to be impervious to just about everything. Even spilled paint cleans up with a little thinner.
Posted on: 9/4/2012 10:10 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11217033

RE: Dope cover question
Speaking from my own personal experience: I have used Sig products in the past - their Koverall is a quality product, but their dopes have been a little difficult to come by from the LHS. Brodak has good quality dopes and reasonable availability. I have used Stits http://www.stits.com/ products on my last two builds. I really like the Stits polyfiber fabric because it is available in very large dimensions and as a result, there seems to be less waste if you are careful when you cut out the covering pieces. Stits also carries every single thing that you need with which to cover whether you are building "scale" or just trying to "get it covered and in the air". Since they specialize in covering, they will have everything that you need to cover as well as the customer support.
Posted on: 9/4/2012 10:05 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11217026

RE: Acroduster Too Design/Build
'Bout time. Saw the P-26 & the PCA-2 - both outstanding! Thanks for posting your work (art).
Posted on: 8/21/2012 10:46 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200999

RE: Pitcairn PCA-2 Autogiro by Whirlybird Aviation
Wow! Outstanding build and video.
Posted on: 7/15/2012 11:49 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11156148

RE: engine modification
The "rule of thumb" for edge distance is one and one-half times the diameter of the hole. In other words, the center of a 1/4" hole should be at least 3/8" from the edge of the material.
Posted on: 7/12/2012 1:27 PM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11152539

RE: OS .91 prop drive hub spins
Jim The Woodruff key is made of steel - The drive hub is made of aluminum. Check the metal fragments with a magnet to determine where they might have come from. As long as the crankshaft is still straight and the drive hub keyway has not been enlarged, then all you will need is the key. I have lost these several times in the past - its easy to do.
Posted on: 7/8/2012 11:54 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11147644

RE: wing servo wire tubes?
I just fish a couple of #10 washers tied to sewing thread through the wing and then tie the thread to the servo connector wire. I only have to do it once or twice over the lifetime of a plane and it really does save a little weight.
Posted on: 7/4/2012 2:11 PM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11143009

RE: Blushing Dope
Living in Houston, I have become very accustomed to dope blushing. The comments made earlier are very good suggestions. I've never tried the castor oil, so thank for that one. I've always used retarder from the manufacturer. If I do get a surface that has the blushing issue, I just wait for a cooler, dryer day and spray a coat of thinner over the finished surface. The blush goes away as if it never happened.
Posted on: 6/30/2012 12:09 PM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11137789

RE: Pitcairn PCA-2 Autogiro by Whirlybird Aviation
What a unique build as well as a distinct challenge to fly. As always, I admire your building skills. I will certainly subcribe to this post. By the way, I looked all over every photograph to see if I could find a picture of the completed Acroduster II and couldn't find it.
Posted on: 6/21/2012 8:11 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11126508

RE: GP Hole Locator to mount servos
This is one of my favorite tools for locating holes for mounting just about anything. When I am drilling holes for a set of servos, I will usually draw the servo layout using AutoCAD and then print the drawing. I can then use masking tape to locate the servo drawings on the support rails. It gives a perfect layout every time. The only complaint that I have is that it is sometimes difficult to get the exact measurements of the mounting holes from some of the servo manufacturers.
Posted on: 5/26/2012 8:38 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11095300

RE: Stipped head screw fix??
The best way to fix a stripped hole is either by drilling and tapping to the next larger thread size or to use a heli-coil insert. Either method will be as strong as the original design assuming that there is enough metal remaining around the larger hole. However; unless you already have the tools that will be required to repair this one hole, you may spend more money to buy tools than it would cost to just buy a new crankcase. I have several K&B engines and have communicated with MECOA on several occasions about repair procedures and parts. They are great folks to work with and have always steered me in the right direction.
Posted on: 5/21/2012 9:01 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11088812

RE: Best Houston RC Flying clubs ?
If you are into electrics, New Creations in Willis - http://www.newcreations-rc.com/ - is the place to shop. Kirk is extremely knowledgeable about electrics and his shop is pretty well stocked. There is also a club out that way called Barnstormers - not paved, but a nice field.
Posted on: 5/5/2012 11:06 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11069451

RE: Front Gear
To paraphrase a signature: "In theory, there is no difference between tighten and loosen; In practice, there is - tighten looks cooler to most."
Posted on: 5/2/2012 8:53 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11065453

RE: Escapade or stinger 2
Suggest that you do a search for both airplanes here on RCU. You will probably get a lot of comments about both planes. Review what other owners have said about each airplane and then you can make an informed decision. My son had an Escapade, it few well; however, elevator flutter was a big problem and the canopy had to be modified to get it to stay on - all those issues are addressed in other posts on this site.
Posted on: 4/18/2012 11:55 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11047379

RE: koverall Question
I have a PT-40 that is covered with Koverall and painted with Brodak dopes. If there is a weight penalty, it is very slight. Being a trainer, it has had its share of training accidents but it has held together where I am certain that the plastic coverings would have failed. I have a GP Extra 300S that is covered with Stits poly-fiber and painted with the recommended Stits paints (poly-brush, poly-spray, and poly-lite colors). I really do have to say that it is a very nice, well coordinated system. Again, if there is a weight penalty, it is almost negligible. The finish has come out great. Both are nitro powered. Neither have had any of the finish rub off on the cleaning rag.
Posted on: 4/6/2012 1:57 PM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11031028

RE: USPS, Service with a smile. The Sequel
My father was a rural mail carrier. After 34 years of service (including his WWII service with the Flying Tigers), he was able to retire as part of the Post Office reorganization act in 1970. He got the job from his father who carried the same route on horseback. When I was around six or seven years old, I used to go to the post office with him in the afternoon after the mail truck came in to help him sort the mail for the next day's delivery. One day I asked him what the word "Fragile" meant. He said that it meant "throw it underhanded", but then followed up with the correct explaination about how the package should be carefully handled. I always suspected that the Post Office would go downhill after he retired. Maybe it has.
Posted on: 4/5/2012 3:03 PM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11029798

RE: Best striping tape?
I just stopped at the auto-paint supply last week and asked for some 3M fine-line tape. It was ~$8 per roll. They had an equivalent tape from Norton for ~$6 per roll. I haven't used it yet on actual paint masking, but it looks identical to the 3M.
Posted on: 4/3/2012 8:57 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11026636

RE: Twin engines uneven compression Magnum
Just a thought - You might try to use a lower pitched propellor and try to measure the max rpm with only the right cylinder firing and then compare that result to the same test with only the left cylinder firing. Seems to me like if the results are close, then there is little to worry about and you should go flying. Maybe a little nutty, but it's the way my brain is working this morning. Good luck.
Posted on: 3/26/2012 9:28 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11015636

RE: Twin engines uneven compression Magnum
On full sized engines, a 'differential pressure test' is done to determine the leak rate in the cylinder. Engine manufacturers have a leak rate spec in their manuals to let you know if there is excessive leakage in the cylinder. If the leak rate exceeds the mfgs spec, you can put your ear up to the intake, the exhaust, or the crankcase to hear whether the leak is in the intake valve, the exhaust valve, or the piston rings. Although I doubt that this sort of test is at all practical for small engines like we use, I do wonder if you could perhaps rig up a pressure fitting for the plug hole so that you could pressurize the chamber and at least get an idea about where the leak is. If you hear nothing conclusive, then perhaps one combustion chamber volume is much smaller than the other. Stay with it and let us know what you finally discover. Good luck. Oh, by the way - be sure to secure the propellor (crankshaft) when you pressurize the cylinder. That much pressure can sure spin a prop and cause considerable damage.
Posted on: 3/25/2012 12:25 PM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11014402

RE: Parallel & Series?
Again, nice work. The switch that you describe is normally referred to as a double pole double throw center off (DPDTCO). Make sure that the switch is rated for the amperage that you expect it to flow. Would love to see the wiring diagram.
Posted on: 3/20/2012 8:28 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11008242

RE: Parallel & Series?
You can have a parallel connection or a series connection, but not both at the same time. Look at your proposed wiring diagram and follow the red wire from the upper battery+, then to the 12v + terminal, then to the lower 12v+ terminal, then to the lower battery+, then to the upper battery-. Even though it is a bit of a complicated path, it is still a direct short from the upper battery+ to the upper battery-. The same scenario exists if you follow the black wire from the lower battery- and back to the lower battery+. I'm afraid that the big spark and snapping sound will occur if you try the proposed diagram. By the way, your battery caddy and the wiring connections that you have made look very nice. Excellent workmanship.
Posted on: 3/19/2012 11:40 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11007108

RE: Hinging a canopy question
How about landing gear door hinges. Robart offers some good ones. http://www.robart.com/products/gear-door-hinges I am sure there are others.
Posted on: 3/12/2012 2:09 PM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10997357

RE: OK, where can I get one of these
Sorry to hijack thread, but are those spring leaves installed backward? I thought that the short one went on top.
Posted on: 3/6/2012 8:46 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10988693

RE: Where to buy cheap braided rigging cables
Balsa USA carries what you are looking for. http://shop.balsausa.com/category_s/141.htm The stuff shown on this page is very high quality and reliable if your cables are to be used for structural or controls. There are cheaper ways to make cabling, but not as easy and worry-free as this. As I said in an earlier post, you can probably find a wire rope supplier that can provide these products locally and maybe a little cheaper.
Posted on: 2/27/2012 8:38 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10978215

RE: Where to buy cheap braided rigging cables
Just look in the yellow pages for "wire rope" in your area. There will probably be a lot of suppliers. It is commonly called aircraft cable. What you want is a 7X7 (flexible) or a 7X19 (extra flexible) wire rope. You can get it in galvanized steel (cheapest) or stainless (most expensive). You can also pick up thimbles and sleeves as well as the tool (Nicopress) for installing sleves on your wires. 3/64 is probably the closest to the size you want but it is terribly hard to find. 1/32 will work as well but also hard to find. 1/16 is pretty available as well as fairly cheap. Good luck.
Posted on: 2/26/2012 12:02 PM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10976815

RE: Dremel Moto-Tool parts/repair source needed
You guys are scaring me. I have a Dremel model 270 that I bought in the late 60's. I have used it for just about everything possible and it is still going strong. I hope mine never breaks.
Posted on: 2/18/2012 9:24 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10964520

RE: Cambridge scientist debunks flying myth
Tim I guess that your simplistic view of lift is derived from your simplistic view of Newton's second law. F=MA is a special case of Newton's second law. Newton's second law says that the Force is equal to the product of the mass times the time rate of change of the momentum. Or at least that's what my physic book says. Perhaps it does dispute others that you have read. I do agree that it is only necessary to develop an intuitive understanding of Newton's laws to fly our planes (feel the physics), but to proscribe that a thorough and detailed analysis of lift is "nonsense" is just absurd.
Posted on: 2/16/2012 8:54 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10961602

RE: Balancing heavys
In response to KW_Counter: Yes, exeter's method will work on tricycle gear as well as tail-dragger. Just be sure that you measure with the airplane leveled.
Posted on: 2/11/2012 7:40 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10954077

RE: Bent Crankshaft
Sounds like you should have asked what "NIB" stands for. In this case perhaps it was "Now In Box". Good luck on either getting your money back or straightening the crank.
Posted on: 2/10/2012 8:42 AM by Author "Lone Star Charles" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10952734