RE: nitro snowmobiles??
dont buy the art attack, you honestly wont be happy with it, it simply does not work. we dont have a good option yet, give it time.
Posted on: 1/8/2012 10:25 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10899119

RE: Snowmobile build up start to finish
Dark, There has been interest here on and off, we just dont have a good model to use and thats what kills the interest, we are the forgotton part of the hobby. for your battery, there are alot of different size lipos made, go look up hobby king for one with the right dementions you may need, he has some good cheap prices, you have to find the 4s thats gonna fit. modifying may be needed, idont have your sled to tell you futher to be honest. im trying to get a kit togeather to offer to the public, a good kit on the market would bring all kinds of interest, this is a part of the hobby waiting to explode if you want my opinion, way to many people with snow and interest in this hobby for us to be dead, our current offerings on the market are nothing short of pathetic. with time, we well have better options.
Posted on: 12/4/2011 1:40 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10842928

Rigger RC speed boats, is there a 1:1 version?
I have been considering a new raceboat project in 1:1 scale, something about 8 to 10 feet long, a mini missle if you well lol I have never seen a rigger in more or less 1:1 scale, does one exist or is it only in our world of RC? I come from a boating family so it's not like I'm out touching with boating in general. So are there any in full scale?
Posted on: 7/15/2011 10:04 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10623382

RE: New Bright MXZ sled (with photo)
other than checking ebay, for these kind of toys there realy is no parts source, these are not hobby level. i would try screws maby? and epoxy must sit for more than 24 hours before its fully cured and strong, and sometimes it still needs more time. possibly build your own skis and mounting bracket? a few people have done stuff like that for there RC cars and planes, it would at least let you fix it, be strong possibly and even.
Posted on: 11/25/2010 12:32 AM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10158192

RE: need help with kyosho blizzard!
i converted my nitro to electric about 4 years ago, there are a few specific parts you need, A chassie plate, electric motor mounting plate, plastic mount that bolts under the motor and holds the shaft the spur attaches to ,spur, i think bearings and i think even the shaft from the tranny to diff is different, i realy do not rember you well probbably need to find some diagrams online or even call kyosho, i do rember my parts coming from the UK but at the time i did this was a few months before the new blizzard releases. call kyosho first and see what they can do for you, someone should be able to tell you what parts you need, ebay does have random blizzard parts when i have looked as well good luck
Posted on: 11/22/2010 12:57 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10151989

RE: What type of alum is used in chassie of savage, maxx etc
Thanks, Who is better than mcmaster? i know there are alot of hobby metal retailers online paying for shipping to me is robbery, i use to live near a fantastic metal supply store, but you realy only find those in huge citys, very disapointed i have to even pay for shipping now
Posted on: 11/12/2010 11:44 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10132252

RE: New Bright Ski doo mxz
Then he can try ebay to find it, there should have been plenty around.
Posted on: 11/12/2010 9:11 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10131981

RE: custom truck questions
Yes you can, but there are other things to consider, and specifics to know about. Allthough im very very deep into this hobby, im not the most detailed person on radios and such, but i do know the basics and well run them down for you That link is to a 2.4 ghz Robot RX system, Allthough well priced to be honest, applies it self to a 2.4 ghz transmitter system that is still typically more expensive, Yet a great system For airplane radios and cars, we have 72 and 75 MHZ systems with crystals, these are common, quite old tech and are likely what you have in any of your RC cars 2.4 ghz is a new type of system that has more signal clairity, some other advantages and a disadvantage that realy wont effect you with a car. That specific disadvanage is the 2.4 Receiver system requires more minimum voltage to run than previous tech, what has happened and still happenes is as you use your car/airplane, with a receiver pack, the voltage in the receiver pack well drop with time and use and drain, like say gusty conditions with an airplane demanding more power out of the servos dropping the voltage down fairly low, in 2.4 ghz systems people flying airplanes especially noticed a short period of time that the RX would completely lose signal from the TX while the RX voltage dropped to a certin point, then would regain it a moment later, sometimes not before a crash saddly, With a car this is not nearly as common or much of a problem when it does show up so it realy shouldnt concern you with difference unless you plan on flying planes with these later, with 2.4 ghz you well also get more range, another big plus. They are also crystall-less and can be used without conflict, with crystal based systems like you allready own you can run into signal problems with someone being on the same channel, using a airplane radio especially show cases this problem with crystals, we dont want to turn on our radio and crash someones plane, Chances are your not within a mile and a half of a flying field or any place people fly at all, But You have to know and check. So now back to the standard crystal systems, typically 75mhz if i rember correctly, Cheaper, common, well do every thing you need, you just have to be carefull of clashing signals with someone flying. technically when using a 6-9 channel airplane system, your supposed to use one built on a 72 mph Car frequency, This is realy not pratical for anyone to be honest as these conversions or special radios, RX's are expensive and semi rare, i doubt very few people go through the trouble. My main airplane radio is a Futuba 9Cap (the same one i use for that snowcat and all my other multi channel projects) at the time it was 345 bucks new and probbably 6 years ago, with servos and RX, honestly i think you should hit that well under 200 now used or even less, maby ebay or even a local hobby shop. so realy not bad for all those parts and all of that function you would realy like this radio. 9 channels, all kinds of dials and switches to use, programming features i still havent figured out, it would be very handy for your project, as would any decent computer radio to be honest. Before you go for the buy, you should probbably check out a local hobby shop of some kind, see if you can get your hands on a airplane radio and try to get some prespective for how your going to control a RC car and its raise/lowering system. Also that RX you linked to is specific to robots, the speific function is has different from other RX's is a specific *cut off* ability, for the system your running you realy dont need such specifics, a very standard airplane receiver would work just fine, i use them in all of my projects. it has alot to do with your route, im personaly one to budget the hell out of all my builds so im allways taking the cheap route first, a typical computer airplane system 6-9 channels (9 well give you more options) should be exactly what you need reguardless, crystalled radios or 2.4 is more of a price based decision, i would like to think realy not a whole lot more money, but more none the less. there is also one more route of sorts i just rembered, allthough not all that different, i know from watching battlebots at times over the years, alot of the people controling the robots well actually have sort of a tray in front of them, holding 2 radios giving them certin functions, controling 2 different receivers on the bot. there is nothing special to it other than having 2 radio systems bolted into one car with different/more controls mounted togeather, this would mean 2 receivers, 2 RX batterys on the car, but the same amount of servos, in my opinion controling a car with a stick is odd, the trigger and wheel work great and this would give you the option to put the bags on sticks and the driving controls on the standard trigger setup you probbably allready have and use. just more options
Posted on: 11/11/2010 2:33 AM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10128221

RE: Giant Puppet
Battlebots, Robot stuff well help you alot, alot of us here are used to using RC scale gear, but those who build battlebots and such commonly work in the range that your looking for. there are a couple of forums im trying to think of ill hint you towards, there should be at least a few people here that can help you but we dont get alot of attention here on the forum. i see what i can dig up.
Posted on: 11/10/2010 12:41 AM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10125982

RE: custom truck questions
And some other quick thoughts. If you simply wanted to move the truck up and down without any independant movement, you could split 1 channel into 4, and with something as simple as a 3 channel Rc Car radio system (the standard) have a higher and lower set height and click between them with your 3rd channel switch. but for precise, proportional and independant movement, airplane stick radio is your option i think. [link=http://www.gardentrucking.com/products.tpl?action=search&cart=12892902505372413&eqCATEGORYdatarq=Hydraulics&eqMAJORCATEGORYdatarq=products&Titlesumm=t&Titlesort=1&max=10]Link to Hydraulics, RC scale[/link] quite pricy to rig up an RC car with these options, but this is the holy grail of cool, next to airbags anyways, infact click on alot of the links and look at this site, very very cool stuff, and in the case of the penumatic systems, each piston needs its own channel/servo. [link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Jd_HMq2_Yk&feature=related]Here is a link to someone who did what your trying to do[/link] watch this video end to end, he shows how he mounted his servos, this should give you a great idea, like i said your just replacing your upper shock mounting position with a servo arm basicly, and connecting a shaft. hope this helps
Posted on: 11/9/2010 3:22 AM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10123987

RE: custom truck questions
If your using brake line brazing is the way to go as i understand, honestly i have yet to figure it out good enough to do chassies with, but in the crawling world like RCcrawlers.com and our own crawling forum, brazing is like walking, everyone does it without thinking about it, except for people like you and me lol soldering is ok, but im not sure if solder well stick to brake lines the way you want, with brazing i think you can do some trick stuff, i have seen great examples. soldering you may want to look up how to do it, im very good at soldering wires but ive never done structure with it. the servos i would point you to would be very standard servos with a big of strenght, like a hightec 625 or 645MG, the kinda servo you would use in a tmaxx or revo or savage as a steering servo, standard case size. infact there are alot of 30-40$ servos that would fit this range, and cheap used ones sold on ebay, you realy have alot of options here because 4 of them would have a easy time lifting the truck i think your going to build (trying to figure out the weight to) the fact your having trouble finding a big enough body might make you downsize the truck a bit to fit into what you can find, often times with projects (and trust me im a BIG Rc project guy) i have to figure out what i want to do, figure out what i can buy (like the body) and basicly build around that because it becomes a limiting factor. as far as controlling the servos, here your options get expensive, with a airplane radio you can control 4 servos with 2 sticks plus dials. A project of mine i used a airplane radio to control 3 servos, 2 stick ran forward/reverse and turning, the other stick plus 1 dial controled the blade function. it worked very well like this and realistic. a plus to my radio is being a computerised airplane radio i could combine functions, like in thoery with enough programming time you could control the entire truck with one stick, and lower and raise entirly with a dial, then the other stick would be used for gas and turning. But you pretty much have to abandon the standard RC car radio system, with it being only 2-3 channels there is just no way of controling 4 independant sides without a airplane or other speciality radio like a scale RC boat radio even, but im pretty sure airplane would be better. [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2944524/tm.htm]Another project of mine[/link] This here is another project of mine that is similer to what your doing with servos, if you notice from the pics i have 3 servos in the front controling this blade, i basicly just came up with this in a entire night, i had to mount a servo in a certin spot to get a certin movement and built mounts to get it there. i wish i could come up with pictures for you, but picture a RC car shock mount, if you could mount a servo where the arm would sit near the top of the shock mount with a shaft going to the lower shock mount, then moving the servo would simply lift or lower that arm. [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ89&P=ML]hitec 645 MG servo[/link] this might be a great servo for your project, standard size, common and cheap, or you may want to upgrade to a slightly more powerfull one, the nice thing is you have options in that exact same size of servo. you could get allmost twice the power out of one the same size, but for 3 times the cost, its just options. that servo is rated 133 OZ at 1 inch arm, That is more than 8 pounds, a single one of these servos should lift a common 1/8 scale RC car like a revo or tmaxx, that is how much power is in these, 4 of them should have no trouble doing what your looking for. As far as the penumatic side of things, Very very cool and i think doable, maby even allready done by a few havent looked into it, if i do rember correctly there are some german RC trucking sites that sell very very high quality big rig style stuff, but very very expensive, ill have to look up these links, but im pretty sure they do exist. A RC airplane penumatics have a air cylinder you pump up with a bycle pump, servos control valves that open up to penumatic pistons in landing gear, to open and close them, you still need a servo per wheel to control it, but now you also need valves, airlines, and to buy expensively or make your own airbags. options options options and its all about cost, airplane radio and those servos might set you back about $400 or so, the other options well defintly cost more because you well still need the airplane radio and smaller servos, plus all the penumatic gear. could easily cost 300 more unless you happen to have a lathe/mill and can make alot of the parts. ill try to come up with more interesting links for you for this, but take the time to research for a bit, you well save your self alot of money.
Posted on: 11/8/2010 11:12 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10123748

RE: custom truck questions
If your just looking for the up and down motion, You could use servos quite easily, with a airplane controller and airplane RX think of mounting a servo to the upper shock mounting hole and using a shaft instead. realy the same way your steering moves, just moving your A arm up and down. Bags are not to far out of the question, we have penumatic retract systems for airplanes, if you could figure out how to make the bags the other air parts allready exist but the servos well give you alot of control, and is the route i would go with trying what your doing. have considered it my self And yes your in the right forum for the most part, afterall how common is airbags or hydraulics in the RC industry ? you stand out in a way here because we all do unqiue offball things
Posted on: 11/8/2010 2:33 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10122850

RE: new bright skidoo gearbox
Here in the unusuall RC forum, a page or 2 back from here, page 2 or 3 is some threads on the new bright, check those to see what they are using realy its what ever you can fit, to plastic...
Posted on: 11/4/2010 3:14 AM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10114428

What type of alum is used in chassie of savage, maxx etc
was looking to do a project with this alum, but when i look up sheets to order on mcmastercarr i get confused, is this stuff realy a lower grade than 6061? i say this mostly because of prices i see what is the common alum grade used for factory chassie construction?
Posted on: 10/31/2010 11:18 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10107607

RE: What's your favorite, funnest RC ever, thats not a car/truck/plane/boat/heli?
As someone who owns nearly everything RC related in some form, i must say my sub (a ww2 german style dynamic diving sub, plans from a euro mag years ago) and my 1/5 scale thunder tiger sport bike, super micro speed boats i build from scraps for the most part, hull in lenght 10" and a RC snowmobile project im doing rank highest on my list RC snowcat ETC The sub is interesting, Dynamic diving meaning is powers it self underwater, and does not have a RC air ballast system, speed and downward force drive it under, its fun and challenging, one of my more interesting RC's my 1/5 thunder tiger bike is another fun one, different than a 1/10 scale RC onroad its close to, you have to predict its turns so much more, driving it fast around a 1/5 scale RC onroad track is a real challenge, with a regular RC car you can just slam on the brakes and turn, with the bike you have to setup for the corner, not brake to hard, power out nice and smooth. totaly different and one of my favs the micro speed boats are 10" in hull lenght, totaly custom for the most part, what makes them unique for me is i build them from for the most part scraps from other projects, my first one started out as a micro brush motor from a crashed RC plane (12MM diamater motor, tiny) with 4" of steel rod left overs for a drive shaft, cast metal static prop that actually worked fantastic, balsa scraps from plane kit boxes. 2S lipo, less than 20$, 8amp ESC from plane that crashed, leftover brushed motor, rest of boat and had it going near 20mph on a small lake, i couldnt belive what i turned some scraps into, stuff people i know would throw away. im now on super micro #4, i have evolved to a 12X30MM brushless on 3S lipo, powering a kyosho formula boat prop, boats totaling in weight around 6oz ready to run, most of the smaller parts are machined on my mill, rudders, rudder mount, running gear, building small perfection one step at a time. 15" long hull is considered micro so this is downright tiny, nice thing about this is its so small its downright cheap, i built it from left overs from other projects for the most part and its by far my cheapest RC investment, i call each one small speed =) RC snowmobile, self cast plastic parts, CAD designed and water jet cut alum chassie, CAD designed rubber drive belt, designed from the ground up to be what its supposed to be and just like a real sled SHOULD be, overpowered and to much fun, hopefully finished in a year or so =) the RC snowcat is my 6 year old project on this forum called nitro blizzard into park bully (a few pages back or so in the unusuall forum) custom built 2 way blade, 3 servos total doing moving function with a nitro blizzard turned electric with a crawler setup for slow strong movement, very very unique considering how few people have mounted blades on a blizzard let alone multi direction blades, fun yet different crawler style. let alone even more projects i dont have time or money for, gosh i love grid paper
Posted on: 10/14/2010 3:25 AM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10067588

Surface drive design/tuning help
Hello all, been a little while since i poked my face around the speedboat forums, Im asking for a tad bit of help with a micro boat im designing, This is boat number 3 for me, surface drive attempt #2 with the first one being a total failure for many reasons, my subsurface drive on boat #2 worked great and the little sucker downright flew AND performed. These boats im building are all 10" long hulls, made from a few peices of balsa, and for the most part every single part of it is small and started out as some form of scrap i had sitting around. this last boat ive built is a 10" long cat, 3 and 5/8th wide, running weight 4.95 oz (without rudder, servo, hatch) with a 12-30-4100K ammo in runner from electricfly, 8amp silver series speedo, 3S 730 MAH lipo, props from the kyosho mini z speedboats. currently on a 2/1 gear reduction drive train because i had no other resistance free options. all hardware custom made on my mill and lathe. My question with surface drives (pics i post later) is once setup, and you get cavitation before the boat is able to get up onto step, what is the next step in surface drive setup ajusting and such? how much does weight balance have to do with its ability to plane? prop size, depth of prop etc have to do with overall setup? my current prop is also a 3 blade, would a 2 blade be less prone to cavitation in a situation? i have about 70% of my prop showing below the hull, prop is entirely under water at rest in the water and at light speed. the prop is also about 1 inch behind the stern. so, where to next? thanks for any help
Posted on: 10/1/2010 1:03 AM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10039677

RE: Nikko Ripper
some pictures might help if you can, most of us here are not familer with nikko products. but with pictures we may be able to figure something out did you try searching for a manual on google? you can find about any manual online, it may exist try even checking nikko's website also
Posted on: 10/1/2010 12:08 AM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10039606

RE: Electric Rotowing
No problem, love the project idea, we have to open our minds up in all directions when it comes to finding solutions. Make sure you look up the evx specs on the traxxas website, make sure your desired motors and battery are a fit to it, there are other options to some in the world of RC boating. any other help just yelp lol
Posted on: 8/27/2010 5:46 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9964036

RE: Electric Rotowing
original emaxxes came with a controller like that, i belive it was called the EVX or something? there are a few out, ment mostly to work with 2 motored monster trucks, this was before they started throwing in a single huge brushless, realising of course it would work... probbably some on ebay for a decent price, EVX is the correct name.
Posted on: 8/27/2010 12:43 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9963486

RE: 1/3 scale Hydroplane
How long is the arm off of your rudder? in other words how many inches from the center pivot of the rudder to where the servo connects to it? i have a hunch its kind of on the small side and might be giving the steering servo (whatever your using) and harder time than it needs, in a case like this you realy want to max out the servos throw side to side with the desireable rudder throw side to side, it well create a much more effective setup. in other words you dont have to be using half of the servos availible travel to move the rudder fully, full servo travel to full rudder. a few of the people above me have good ideas for servos to use, or along the lines of beefy robot servos. servocity.com has great large scale options. dont forget a failsafe in that beast eather, CAN be dangerous! Very very very cool, thanks for posting it.
Posted on: 8/25/2010 3:48 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9959227

RE: jet drive surfboard
To be clear about it, your motor OR your ESC is heating up first? if its your motor (and it sounds like it is) that generally is a sign of overload on the motor, in your case prop to agressive/large or you could add a gearbox, if the ESC was heating up first, that would be a sign of the prop/gearing combo not being agressive enough, Myself being a surfer, i allready know surfboards are realy considered high drag to the world of RC because of the scaling effect, they paddle fine with us on it, but we are just paddling. you could reduce the volts, lipo setup, that may breath some life into this but for the most part i think you need to gear down or realy downsize your prop. or even change to a lower KV motor. you are heating up quite quick, probbably not a minor change is needed. quote the maker for this info, but i think brushless motors should run around 170F ? been a while and its better to get the quote from the maker, generally that rule of thumb applies to running say in a car or boat for the entire battery duration, if its above a certin temp you need to gear/prop down, if its below that temp you CAN prop/gear up. ESC has its own prime temp for the end of a battery, usually around 140F, not sure exactly and it varies mfg to mfg so defintly get the correct quotes. boat websites/mags have alot of gear reduction systems if i rember, look into the RC tugboat world if you cant find them elsewhere because speedboats typically dont use any gear reduction, tugboats allmost allways and your surfboard even if its a shortboard resembles the tug alot more than the highspeed V by the way reading your post again, your motor heating up that quickly is a bad sign, you are being extremly hard on it, defintly gearbox or prop down right away, motors can fry to. 6 sec is extremly short for a motor to heat up. Very cool project, need pictures! short board or long board?
Posted on: 8/25/2010 3:44 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9959221

RE: 1/2 scale j-3 cub (18' ws)
or in the giant scale forums BEAUTIFUL plane!
Posted on: 7/19/2010 9:45 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9875446

RE: robbe forklift
that thing looks trick, i wish there were more like it, my tamiya forklift is a joke, but fun.
Posted on: 7/14/2010 6:39 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9865389

RE: Go to jail for flying RC airplanes in Stigler, Oklohoma
asking about drugs actually has alot to do with it, the cop may or may not have made up that rule, but what self respecting officer wants kids in town asking OTHER kids about drugs? i know plenty of true honest idiots with bad intentions that dont do drugs, i know plenty of good people who do, asking anyone something like that is just a bad idea. its generally a good idea to cops to drive away bad people any way they can legally, once you started arguing you threw what legal aspects were on your side out of the window, your size or airplane or the existance of a law that may or may not exist realy does not matter, all you had to do during your obvious argument was ask what city code prohibits it in a polite and calm manner no matter how loud he gets, your going to get your self throw in jail not for flying RC airplanes but for being an idiot. And how old are you? to no offence you sound very young, reguardless of age you have to be wise about things, find a peacefull and non-argumentive resolve, find another officer and ask him about such law, what code, does it realy exist etc, then go from there in a proper manner.
Posted on: 7/3/2010 9:13 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9843048

RE: Twin Ducted Fan RC Car
nice pics, looks like a very cool project, get some brakes on that and get some vid!
Posted on: 6/30/2010 1:58 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9836566

RE: Youre addicted to RC, when..
5 thousand plus on Mill/lathe/tooling to build parts that if were in stock, would basicly be extremly specific 5$ parts Bandsaws, drill press, tons of alum/delrin stock, brazing, plans for a homemade vacume form setup for future projects. 60+ sheets of 1/10 18"X24" grid paper full of various detailed designs from all angles, full drafting setup along with autocad2010 on the PC and a few very detailed 2d drawings mechanical engineering books based around design concepts, 2 rooms fully deticated, plus most of the real working portion of my gerage I have a bit of allmost everything, except a turbine jet, dynamic diving sub and a RC sky diver Hardcore RC user for more than half my life, Any new addictions to my collection are usually 100% custom designed and built, with projects ranging from mini speedboats at 10" in lenght, to 1/4-1/3 scale motorcycle engine powered Baja trophy trucks ETC. Addicted enough for you? oh wait, it was supposed to be humorous lol =)
Posted on: 6/26/2010 12:36 AM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "RC Humor"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9827426

RE: rc snowmobile
the kind of charger she needs is specific, im pretty sure that battery for that RC sled she has mounts onto the charger it self, its not a simple tamiya plug or this would be easyer. thats why i told her to go to hobbytown, if it was a simple tamiya plug they could set her in the right direction with alt equipment. i hope she is doing well with that.
Posted on: 6/7/2010 3:07 AM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9786506

RE: Would you pay more for US made ARF''s?
I am willing to pay a fair price, for an ARF made in america by CITIZENS, Not illegals. Quite a few american RC companys employ more illegals than citizens, Allways good to know when i was working for a flagship RC company that All of my production co workers (i was assembling brushless motors) could not speak english, 20+ people that could barely say hello in the morning in english, allways made me feel good knowing thats 20 kids out of highschool down the street that dont have a job to go to because positions in the company i was working for were occupied by non citizens. A kid cant come out of high school and get his life going ANYWHERE without a job. Made in china? not interested, Made in USA by illegals? Ready to boycott! Fair priced for what it is, quality, made by american citizens working a fair wage, Sure. I would love to invest in a few of my projects, but cant do that with a job, allways fun to walk around town noticing all the illegals working and me of course, not. Along with about half the kids outta highschool, half the people losing there homes to the bank etc.
Posted on: 6/1/2010 4:54 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9773991

RE: rc snowmobile
Im not sure when exactly they started making them, i dont think it can be older than 6 years or so. but honestly thats just a guess [link=http://www.hobbytown.com/StoreLocator/States.aspx?StateID=MI]hobby town store locations in your state[/link] if eather of these stores are close you might want to check them out, they might have the charger or even battery for this, they might know what kinda charger you could use implace of, better than i can without looking at it, or may even know who made them etc. make sure you tell anyone there trying to sell you anything you are a complete beginner, some of this hobby stuff can be a little advanced and some people in hobby shops can overlook that and sell you more than you need, like any retail store people can be careless. you dont need a 40$+ charger for that battery a simple dirt cheap wall unit should work. if you run out of options let us know.
Posted on: 5/27/2010 5:13 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9763482

RE: rc snowmobile
Yes you well need a charger, How old do you think the snowmobile is? hopefully its fairly recent, check wallmart, radio shack etc but i cant figure out who sells/sold them at the moment, those are not usually sold out of a hobby shop. Allthough if you have a hobbytown USA or hobbypeople hobby shop, they can carry stuff like this they are usually quite big. smaller private hobby shops wont carry stuff like this usually. someone else may know who sold them, but it can take a few days or longer to get a answer. and im not sure of exactly what charger you need at the moment, if radio shack or someone else has the battery they should also have a charger [link=http://200.78.236.216/catalog-shop-6-volt-600-mah-nickel-cadmium-ni-cd-rechargeable-battery=GP-TC105]Here is a cheaper battery i found[/link] 3.23 is pretty cheap actually, incase no one local has it, but you still need a charger. But from the looks of the battery pack it has a fairly specific charger, kinda like a radio shack toy wall charger or older VHS camcorder charger, its something like that usually with batterys like that, not just any general battery charger well work. hopefully we can get you going.
Posted on: 5/25/2010 10:12 PM by Author "Lorduss" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9759434