RE: How to slow down plane while landing?
[quote]ORIGINAL: stevegauth30@comcast.net Holy cow, five pages of this. And the op hasn't even chimed in since the first page. Maybe he figured it out. [/quote] Ahhhh, the CASPER EFFECT. There were ball players years ago (probably today too) that were great at throwing a pebble in the ponds of the lockerrooms and disappear (Casper the friendly ghost act), watching the effects of their ripples from the periphery....
Posted on: 5/22/2013 9:27 AM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11519301

RE: The new model from CPLR!
[quote]ORIGINAL: flyncajun Yup we are lol ,,But imagine if they change the rules ,even just a little [:)] Bryan [/quote] With gasoline engines, you could always put it in an IMAC, throw the pipe and soft iso mount away and put on the chain saw muffler (YUK, did I say THAT?)
Posted on: 5/21/2013 1:30 PM by Author "MTK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11518492

RE: O.S. GF40 4st gas
[quote]ORIGINAL: MKnutson The brown truck stopped by and had the engine! First off I can say it looks typical OS perfect casting, and it's a little lighter than my NGH38. Overall a very nice looking engine. It has unbelievable compression just out of the box. A decent baffled muffler comes with it, which is good for our field. Only a couple of gripes that I can see are (1), it comes with an RCexl made in china plug, cm-6 type. And (2), the prop shaft is a little small for this size engine, I have to make an adapter bushing to fit any of the props that this engine will use. These size props all come with a 10mm hole and the shaft threads are 5/16 or appox. 8mm. Other than those two small issues, she's a sweet engine! Mark. [/quote] Sounds like the engine uses the standard 8mm shaft size, same as on their 33cc 2 stroke. APC has that hub size standard on their props. APC has recently released several props intended for the YS170 and 175 glow alky engines. These should work well on the OS40cc, (I think)
Posted on: 5/21/2013 1:20 PM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11518484

RE: Sealing wood
[quote]ORIGINAL: JeffH I know all about "thin, tough and cheap". It is a bit like having a Cheap, Fast, Durable: Drag car. You can have any two, but not all three. I was thinking abuot going the control line stunt method of soping carbon veil, but the onoy place that I can find unsized veil wants as much to ship it as it costs for 3 yards. So it looks like it will silk span, and probably a touch of real silk across the turtle deck since that is open structure and silkspan will puncture if you look at it funny. Then I will break out some K&B paint and smile in the fumes...[&:] [/quote] Jeff, if you have the silk, that will obviously work. If you need to buy it, let me suggest rather than silk, go with Polyspan lite. It similar to silkspan but it is made of polyester fibers which shrink with heat. You apply it the same as silkspan. It is very tough material and has no grain and is very lightweight. Fills quicker than silk. Carbon veil is fragile and takes time to form around curves. It will form okay, but the fibers must loosen first. Once it is applied it isn't particularly tough and will ding easily. Takes more dope to fill too. However, the stiffness it produces in unmatched. That's the reason why CL Stunt guys use it on their very lightweight structures. Veil first, silkspan or esaki tissue on top I finished one plane with it and it didn't come out any better, lighter, than with silkspan (but it was definitely stiffer). Now, I use it under skins rather than over skins to get the stiffness, and still use silkspan and esaki on top ACP has veil at what I think is reasonable pricing.
Posted on: 5/21/2013 9:28 AM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11518270

RE: Correcting incidence
[quote]ORIGINAL: BillS Matt, Your astute assessment of the task and my ability is amazing. Almost no one understands the degree of difficulty for a non builder. It took ten days to get a semblance of correctness but I am happy with the results. In the beginning the task was considered impossible. The next similar project will take half the time Now I am attempting to decide if I can fit a new cowl. But one should not overstay their welcome. THANKS EVERYONE except for one agitator. It is not a given that others have knowledge to share. I have decided to skip over and ignore anything from Mr. Hates Everyone. It is entirely possible that he is 15, has no airplane experience, has no airplanes,, and is simply a blow hard and trouble maker. The following URL gives a general idea of what my company does. The work presented by my customers is very neat. http://www.engsw.com/drawroom/ Bill [/quote] Bill, that's great. I hope it is flying reasonably well for you. Of course that's how we all learned; first time the task is always daunting. It's been nearly 50 years since my start in modeling and I'm still learning. Okay sometimes I relearn stuff I've forgotten. And now, with my 9 year old grandson at my side, I get to teach a very willing pupil. Nothing makes me prouder than when I see his creations take flight and marvel at and bask in his excitement.....Just last night he finally flew his R/C Night Vapor under his complete control and by himself for nearly 1/2 hour. Didn't crash it once. The fact that he too felt the sheer fun of it, well, I'm still smiling, remembering my first independent time RC'ing..... I read some of the posts from Zor and he says some technical things that are correct. How the thread managed to get so convoluted, I'm not sure but I am glad you got enough good info to make informed decisions. On cowl fitting, don't fret it. You might try to cut and fit a cardboard/posterboard pattern first on the fuse top, before committing to the plastic. RC56 glue works well to secure. Use a strip of masking tape to hold it down while the glue dries
Posted on: 5/21/2013 9:10 AM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11518246

RE: DERIVATIVE, New 2X2
[quote]ORIGINAL: Shimano This should be cool! Congrats, Matt! Cant wait to see the finished beuty! [/quote] Thank you! The wings came ot pretty light at 392 and 387 grams w/o servo and wing tube. Keeping in mind their size (525 sq inches each) and full paint, it's pretty fair weight.... Fuse with canopy and chin cowl, 1086 grams Stab total including tube, 211 grams. This is reasonably sized at 240 sq inches so slightly heavier weight per sq inch as wing panels. Needed to be strong for the 55 up front of course Landing gear, complete with axles but w/o wheel, 4.4 ounces. So around 2300 grams ready for equipment. That was the goal weight from the start for the completed model.
Posted on: 5/20/2013 1:40 PM by Author "MTK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11508401

RE: Sealing wood
[quote]ORIGINAL: JeffH Maybe I will try these methods on some scrap. I have several cans of K&B Primer left. I just worry that the grain will eventually show through, even though whatever method was used orginally worked great. Of course being a slabe sided fuse, I may just glass it and be done with it. [/quote] Jeff, The epoxy paints shrink very little, but do shrink over a year's time. Grain might show through. But that's also true for glassing with clear epoxy paint too...the glass may show through after several months, unless the finish was made rather thick. Thick finishes are heavy of course and sorta defeat the purpose of an Pattern model. About the only material one can use keeping things extremely thin and light is silkspan or esaki tissue. I've found paper finishes tend to be amorphous and without grain for years and 1000's of flights. Not for the faint of heart or for those that just bang things around in the shop tho. It's likely impossible to get "Thin and Tuff and Cheap" to collide in the same sentence and still produce a great painted finish
Posted on: 5/20/2013 12:03 PM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11517344

RE: Correcting incidence
[quote]ORIGINAL: vicman More weight in the tail and one more thing to forget to check in pre-flight. I like getting the construction right in the shop and go fly.[;)] [/quote] My construction isn't just right....it is pretty darned close to perfect. My precision is within a few thousandths of an inch. But so what?? When one flies the types of models I do, (top level aerobatics competition), one tries to extract the absolute maximum performance out of a model......it minimizes the workload on me, the pilot, in the middle of comp flight. The final decalage and any other angles for that matter are finalized over time as the model is trimmed for perfect flying. I abhor using electronic fixes for anything we do in the flying. It is the last resort, not the first That's where having built in adjustable wings, stabs, engine mount, and dihedral come in very handy. I know this is advanced stuff and the average sport flier would never even attempt them or has even thought about them. But that's how the game is played where I play..... But that's waaaayyyy over the top for what Bill was asking in his original post, No? For Bill, getting things back to some semblence of correctness is most important
Posted on: 5/20/2013 11:46 AM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11517334

RE: Correcting incidence
One piece stabs and wings that are screwed in, can be adjusted. Making them infinetesimally adjustable with a screw mechanism, now that's the cat's meow. Straight forward to actually do tho. If you ever decided to build plug in stabs and wings, making them adjustable is elementary. The adjustment mechanisms are simple to build from phenolic tubing
Posted on: 5/20/2013 8:25 AM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11517098

RE: Hatori header and exhaust to suit Atlanta 60
ES Composites pipes take my vote....Quieter and far lighter than any aluminum pipe. Peter, I have a couple of those bent goose neck headers in my bin. Mine are new, but out of the package. If you can't find one, we can work something out.
Posted on: 5/20/2013 7:57 AM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11517058

RE: The new model from CPLR!
[quote]ORIGINAL: Rune I heard some rumors about a YS 200 also....but I'm not a YS man anymore..the plane is maybe also designed with the higher altitude at the WC in mind ? [/quote] I love it....A triplane (just a matter of time in my opinion), with anhedral in the bottom wing. Baron Von Richthoffen would smile! Concentrating this much wing area on the fuse CL has a bunch of benefits Anhedral on the bottom wing would produce adverse roll couple; or correct proverse couple the other two wings generate. A YS200 (32 cc) would be great if true. I don't think the extra weight would be a problem. But I'd love to see a 250 supercharged gas version. Got to be stronger than the OS 40cc 4 stroke....
Posted on: 5/20/2013 7:50 AM by Author "MTK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11517048

RE: Two Stroke Oils
[quote]ORIGINAL: TimBle Your engine will be cooking! [/quote] Ha, ha!! OR kooked?
Posted on: 5/18/2013 8:22 PM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515633

RE: Correcting incidence
[quote]ORIGINAL: Zor *SNIP* A Height Gauge can be a simple ruler readable to an accuracy of 1/64 inch as I referred to in neaby postings. Zor [/quote] I really don't want or need to get drawn into the zorcyberspace. But just to make something clear, a ruler will read with precision only at one position. Angle it even slightly and your readings become as variable as the angle. A Height Gauge has a built in base that positions the scale and vernier at the same angle, always. It is always perpendicular to the reference surface. I use that specific feature for setting downthrust (typically zero). BillS my apologies in advance. Somehow your very good question has become convoluted into something totally different. Hopefully you gleaned enough good info to make an informed decision
Posted on: 5/18/2013 8:16 PM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515616

RE: OS GT33 33cc gasser
[quote]ORIGINAL: airborne2.4 That's really quiet MTK. Nice maneuvers in the air too. [/quote] Thank you!! Gas engines do not have to sound like chain saws to be effective
Posted on: 5/18/2013 8:00 PM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515603

RE: OS GT33 33cc gasser
I have one of them too on U Tube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAd8dRxtNbQ&feature=youtu.be In addition to the pipe and noise suppressing APC 20x10.5 prop, the engine is rubber iso mounted. The combination of prop, pipe and soft mount produces an very low noise footprint. BTW, I tried a 3 bladed prop, a Mejzlik 18x10 carbon, and it was not any quieter. It needs a higher pitch than 10".....I wish APC or Mezjlik made an 18x12 3 blader for this engine I am just about a week away from the maiden on my new Pattern design, Delta, which has a DLE55 in it. It is also piped and rubber iso mounted and turns a Mezjlik 20x12 3 blader. The extra pitch really tones things down a lot. This combination was wrung out in an Extra a couple years ago and it truly is electric like quiet. We'll be making a video of this combo at some point
Posted on: 5/18/2013 2:15 PM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515349

RE: Viton Rules!
[quote]ORIGINAL: Edwin Matt, PM sent. What kind of temperature can it take? The small evo gassers use tank pressure. As most of us know gas mufflers get really hot and tygon and viton both melt when connected directly to a muffler. The standard work around for connecting smoke systems was to splice in about a 3 or 4" piece of rubber line. Edwin [/quote] Hi Ed, Polyurethane tubing will not stand up to high heat....it will melt since it is a thermoplastic material I am surprised that Viton has not held up in the heat of a muffler nipple. Viton is a thermoset rubber material similar to stuff like neoprene, silicone, EPDM, nitrile, etc etc. Itcan take a lot of heat, upwards of 500 degrees, quite a bit higher than the typical rubber materials I mentioned (except for the silicone rubber). It doesn't melt like thermoplastics do....
Posted on: 5/17/2013 12:55 PM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514472

RE: OS GT33 33cc gasser
The 35G covers the 30cc class of engines just fine. Ed didn't want to carry several models of essentially identical pipes Regarding the pipe design, there is no difference in the front end (the tuning end) of the 30G, 40G and now the 35G. The back section of the pipe was 1" shorter for the 30G (compared to 40G) and now 1/2" shorter for the 35G. Tuning is identical for the three...... 27" from exhaust flange to reflector baffle, is a good all around length
Posted on: 5/17/2013 12:45 PM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514463

RE: Soft Mounts
It isn't an overstatement to say that prior to around 2005, rubber iso mounts enabled pattern model size and particularly the light weight of same, as we know it today.....The Hyde mount was instrumental and the best of its type
Posted on: 5/17/2013 11:28 AM by Author "MTK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514398

RE: Soft Mounts
I got some direct education a few years ago in regard to rubber iso mounts.... In a hurry to get my new 38cc gas 2 stroke engine bench run, I didn't use an iso mount. The test stand was simply screwed onto my backyard deck railing and engine was started. One should understand how much "dead" wood is in a back yard deck....a couple tons or more which should absorb lots and lots of vibes. Well....... I happened to be in bare feet during the first couple runs. The buzz to my feet was uncomfortable so I completed the iso mount I was building and did some more test runs. Again in bare feet but this time, the buzz was gone. This really drove the point of soft iso mounts home. Point is it doesn't matter how much wood the fuse is made from. Vibes from the size engines we run today, will kill the equipment over short time. One should not confuse the high frequency but invisible, destructive vibration at full revs of the hard mounted engine with the low frequency, non-destructive but very visible shake at idle that rubber iso mounts often display. The rubber iso mounts really isolate the airframe well from the engine at revs higher than idle
Posted on: 5/17/2013 9:43 AM by Author "MTK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514209

RE: Viton Rules!
Ed, I don't have ads...just word of mouth. I am a modeler just like you who was aggravated enough with the gas line offerings when I got back into gasoline several years ago, to do something about it. I am a material scientist and I know a few things regarding plastics and rubbers, so I searched and found a fine alternate to current offerings. Also sell fittings for setting up your own water bottle tanks. I've also sourced 8oz, 16oz and 32oz clear wide mouth bottles for tanks. I sell complete tanks ready to install also. Contact me directly at my email address in my signature
Posted on: 5/17/2013 8:49 AM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514242

RE: OS GT33 33cc gasser
[quote]ORIGINAL: airborne2.4 Has anyone thought of using a planebender pipe? [/quote] Don't know what these are, or material of construction. I use ES Composites 40G carbon pipes and Hatori 2301 back to center header. I use a short extension from an aluminum broom handle to get the correct length. For couplers between pipe and header pieces I use stuff I make myself from ceramic fabric. 100's and 100's of flights and still working well with no blow thru the coupling material. I sell the couplers if anyone is interested..... The ES Composites carbon pipes are supremely lightweight (the 40G weighs less than 3 ounces) and are super quiet. Highly recommend them...pricy at $200 a piece but they are works of art and truly last. I use one soft rubber iso mount to mount mine at the pipe's approximate CG, making certain the pipe will not touch any part of the airframe. Simple, extremely effective, lasts and lasts.....
Posted on: 5/17/2013 8:42 AM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514231

RE: Viton Rules!
[quote]ORIGINAL: karolh That's good news. I quite recently purchased some polyurathane thermoplastic clear tubing from MTK here on RCU for a fraction of the cost of Viton which seems to be just as good or possibly better based on his findings. [/quote] Thanks Karol, Viton is priced at $4+ a foot and sizing isn't as good for our specific application, BUT, it is bullet proof in gasoline
Posted on: 5/17/2013 7:47 AM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514167

RE: Correcting incidence
[quote]ORIGINAL: BillS I hope to end up with incidence designed for the Kougar, Zero, Zero, Zero. How I have been adjusting the incidence. I use a short level and a Robert Incidence Meter and a bunch of shims under the wheels. First I disconnect the aileron linkage and clamp both to centered. I set the airplane wheels on the shims and level the horizontal stabilizer with the shims until both sides of the stabilizer are level and the same. I then tape the shims together as a set for each wheel. Then I check the incidence on each wing and make notes. I remove the wing from the airplane and shim the saddle with a short 1/2 " shim at the appropriate location. I put the wing back on and check the incidence on both sides again. The process is repeated until the incidence is very close. When close I slide soft balsa with glue in the gaps between saddle to wing. The soft balsa is sanded and the saddle gap is checked periodically. I also have a set of micrometers and vernier calipers. Usually I feel funny measuring wood with a micrometer. Also it is easy to calculate angles from measurements which I usually do with props. vicman is correct I fly mostly upright but believe that 4 degrees of prop down looked stupid. It also triggered obsessive compulsive tendencies. Bill [/quote] Hi BillS, 4 degrees downthrust is likely okay for certain models such as high wing, high lift undercambered foil. Keeps that type of model from zooming. In the case of the Kougar tho, it is a symetrically foiled sport model intended for a wider flight envelope. It would be better if set-up with zero on stab and engine and just a triffle +incidence on wing. Everything will improve. Locating the CG at 25%-30% of the MAC would be another adjustment I'd make..... One thing I'd suggest regarding using shims under the soft wheels, you might consider not doing it that way. Reason is that any additional weight (adding the I Meter) will squish the soft foam and throw your measurements off. It would be better if you shimmed the fuse directly. The I meter will produce adequate results as long as you are certain the needle doesn't stick and model doesn't move when you install the meter. If you have a large enough, known flat surface to work with, and IF (big IF) you are not satisfied with the results from an I meter, let me suggest using a non contact meter such as a Height Gauge. It requires that you locate the airfoil centers precisely and marking with a fine point pencil or marker. A Height Gauge requires a flat reference surface to work precisely. Properly used, it can produce and reproduce any fractional angular adjustment one needs. I developed this technique eons ago to set up my precision birds. Regarding angles, here's a simple way to remember how much slope results in 1 degree.....just remember the digits 1 and 4. A 1/4" difference in 14" of span is equal to 1 degree. In other words, for a 14" prop, the right tip as measured from the fin post should be 1/4" shorter than the left, for 1 degree of right thrust. Few things we do come out exactly at 14" of course, but as a rule of thumb it should help you gauge accordingly But again, in your application, the I meter is probably adequate
Posted on: 5/17/2013 7:12 AM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514129

RE: HELP identify my plane PLEASE!
The S stands for SHTUFF. What does the R and C stand for for? Radio Control?? Remote Control?? Which one-a-deezz?!
Posted on: 5/16/2013 1:40 PM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513470

RE: Two Stroke Oils
[quote]ORIGINAL: TimBle whatEvererrrr.... [/quote] About the 20th thread on oils in the past 2 years, but who's counting? W8YE, please more popcorn eaters, please!! I said P-l-e-a-s-e!! Did you find Charlie the Tuna eating popcorn?
Posted on: 5/16/2013 12:58 PM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513438

RE: Correcting incidence
[quote]ORIGINAL: Hossfly **SNIP** To make a LOOOONNGGG story short, try to rebuild your machine to have your thrust-line, wing center line (LE to TE) aligned with the stab line. Many of the older Pattern RC Models were designed with stab and wing in alignment. Then the engine was set at 1.5 to 2° down thrust. This meant that the engine pulled down, causing the wing to be generating some lift positive, the elevator trimmed a tad up to hold the wing in a positive Angle of Attack(AOA) to be providing lift, [b]then[/b] when the machine is turned up-side down, the engine is pulling up while the elevator is wanting the wing to go down. The pilot's punches in a tad of down-trim, (Now UP ) to assist the wing to be in a lifting AOA. One can fly a model which is way out of reality aerodynamic rules. The 3-d folks do it all day every day. [:)] OTOH I am a sport flier mostly as I did Pylon, competition Fun Fly, and tried pattern but not my style. Scale (somewhat-scale that is [;)]) is my forte. Enjoy your pleasure but a small understanding about flying machines makes things easier. [/quote] Pattern models have come around to significantly different set-up than those flown in older days. Vintage pattern maneuver requirements pale by today's standards. Today's Pattern models fly inverted as much as upright and in the higher classes fly sideways (knife edge) about as much as the other two sides, therefore we trim as close to neutral in all axes as practical But sport models are not Pattern models.....Except many sport models that have symmetrical airfoils can benefit by being set-up to today's pattern settings and fly a fuller envelope, fly it better and fly it easier with less workload for the pilot. Today's settings are 0 downthrust, 1/2 to 1 degree + wing incidence, 0 stab, with the CG set at 25% to 30% of the mean aerodynamic chord. The Kougar in question, unless adjusted by moving the stab, wing and engine, will always be compromised in inverted flight. But it can be trimmed to fly upright all day long. If the OP is okay with that, great. If not, there is some work involved to change the surfaces and power to more appropriate settings that work for all attitudes. BTW- landings will also be easier, more predictable
Posted on: 5/16/2013 12:45 PM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513428

RE: Servo question
A123 Voltage nominal rating is 6.6 volts for a 2S battery. Full charge puts the voltage upwards of 7.4 volts. Compare to a LiPo or Li Ion whose nominal voltage is 7.4 and full charge voltage is 8.4 for the same 2S battery A 5S NiCd or NiMH has a nominal voltage rating of 6.0 volts and a full charge voltage of 6.8 - 6.9 volts. It doesn't sound like alot of difference but that's significantly lower than that of an A123 2S battery Some servos simply can't handle the extra 1/2 volt, especially with freshly charged batteries. JR's servos almost universally can handle it, but that's just JR. FWIW 2 U One thing that competition pilots always consider is servo output consistency, first flight of a contest to fifth, at the end of the day. That's the reason many of us use LiPo's regulated down to 6 volts usually. It doesn't matter if the LiPo is at full charge of 8.4 or nominal charge of 7.4. The servos see 6 volts throughout the day and perform identically (speed and torque) from start to finish. Airplane response is identical start to finish for the day.
Posted on: 5/16/2013 8:08 AM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513152

RE: Contra Rotating Propeller Drive for f3a 2m Pattern Planes
[quote]ORIGINAL: MTK What is less clear is where to place the TVC for the vertical stab. The standard single prop drives worked well with a TVC in yaw of around 0.8. The contra seems to require a TVC in yaw of well over 1. The easiest way to get that is with additional vertical area on the main fin, keeping all else the same. Fin shape also plays a role I believe: less chord and greater span
Posted on: 5/15/2013 1:51 PM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11512490

RE: Phoenix 4
My Phoenix 4 only drives an old PCM10 JR TX. It just won't drive any of my newer JR TX's, (10X and 12X). What I mean is the software either doesn't recognize the newer TX's or it just refuses to calibrate with the newer TX's attached. Now the old PCM10 stopped working too. I'm sending everything back to HH. I suspect a software problem with the P4
Posted on: 5/15/2013 8:33 AM by Author "MTK" in the forum "RC Flight Simulator Software"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11512228

RE: Servo question
[quote]ORIGINAL: motor12 I am going to be using 12 servos in total (9 futaba S3305 and 2- S9001 and one tail wheel retract servo) my question is can i run this many servos on the same battery LIPO(2600 mah 2S) with a step down voltage reg. along with my receiver. Please feel free to make suggestions. Thanks [/quote] You can do that but you will probably only get 2 or 3 15 min flights before needingto recharge. No matter what, you'd have to keep track of your voltage after every flight and recharge when you read around 7.4-7.5 volts on your pack. Never drive a 2S Lipo to less than about 7.2-7.3 volts. You will have a time getting a charge back in it (chargers will not drive a battery too depleted), and the battery may be damaged...... You may want to go with a 4000 ma 2S LiPo, regulated to 5.7 volts. You should be able to drive the dozen servos and ignition for about 5 flights 15 minutes each. I suggest you take a good look at and buy the Tech Aero IBEC for your ignition battery eliminator circuit. It has all the RFI filtering built in. Again, make sure to check voltage every couple flights until you are certain how the battery drops and how the drop repeats over many flights. Actually this is a good practice to get into across the board but especially for the more complex airborne set-ups. I use a small digital volt meter to keep track In regard to the Futaba Tech telling you to use nicads, some Futaba servos get jittery when driven at higher than 6 volts, and it may be that the servos quoted are some that do. I don't fly Futaba so I can help in telling which servos will or won't. The Futaba tech was in the best position to make the call. However, althougth standard 4.8 V nicads at 4000-5000 ma capacity will work okay, they will be very heavy (basically 4 size D cells in series, about a pound) and use up lots of space. Even 4.8 V NiMH battery of similar capacity will be heavy. LiPO will be much lighter. You have some choices. As far as V-Regs, Tech Aero has some of the best around....Look up their stuff on-line
Posted on: 5/15/2013 8:12 AM by Author "MTK" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11512214