RE: Best striping tape?
Whoops! ... I was speaking about 3M's masking tape. After re-reading I see you were talking about striping tape. However, my previous comments are applicable to the striping tapes you find in auto paint stores, too. I use both with great success... Dick
Posted on: 4/3/2012 6:02 AM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11026380

RE: Best striping tape?
Yes... 3M tape is the best. Its 3M's Scotch Plastic Tape (blue color). You can get it in various width sizes starting at 1/16". Great for going around curves...once applied holds it's shape (unlike some of the 'red' stuff found in LHS), easy to remove/reposition, leaves a sharp painted line, etc. Dick
Posted on: 4/3/2012 5:50 AM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11026370

RE: Covering SR9
Solartex -best overall covering... Have used all the other types before I switched years ago. Very user friendly. That's what my TF SR9 is covered with.
Posted on: 2/18/2012 3:16 PM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10964964

RE: New JR Radio
Ive been using an 8103 for a long time and have never had a problem; it's a good computer radio and still enjoy using it . Futaba, Hitec, and Airtronic analog servos aren't a problem (I've used them all). Just make sure your lead wires are correctly terminated in JR type/universal connectors which fit your Rx. Using a digital servos may present problems, however, depending on the brand digital servo you use. I use mostly analog servos but do have, and use, some JR digital servos in a couple of my small pattern planes - and they work well. You'll find digitals generally draw more current than analog. JR servo arms fit mainly JR servos and vice versa, so you don't have much intechageabilty among the different brands of servos. Setting up and running dual ailerons (independent of each other) is not a problem. The only real drawback I encountered over the years with my 8103 was the programming. While I'm not the brightest bulb when it comes to proramimng, I found the 8103 wasn't very user friendly, and operations/specific programming instructions lacking, and the manual poorly written (for me, anyway). But now, after many years of use, getting help when needed, etc. I've learned and become comfortable with these short comings and use many of the 8103's features. (I should add, though, I also am on 2.4 Ghz with my Aurora 9[;)]) Dick
Posted on: 1/21/2012 4:43 PM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10920421

RE: Scale venturi
[quote]ORIGINAL: Chip_Mull Just a hint FYI. There is a scale pilot in Florida ( I'm sorry but I forgot his name) who has a full scale Super Cub. He measured the venturi on his Cub and machined an exact, perfect scale version for his Top Gun model. He was downgraded for his venturi. The judge told him ''it's not always what's true scale but what looks correct''. [/quote] And that was a judge? You gotta be kidding...
Posted on: 1/20/2012 11:59 AM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10918844

RE: TF Stinson SR-9
There are some SR9 threads on RCU and RCSB you ought to look into. Should give you a good 'heads up' what you can expect during your build. The plane is an enjoyable build and fun plane to fly. And, 'yes'...a one piece gear is a priority. One piece gears were not commercially available when I built mine... So, rather than making/getting one made, I renforced the kit's mount system (a poor and weak design), and joined the kit's two gear legs together, using with a wide strip 3/16" thk piece alumuinum. I know of other builders at that time who made their own one piece gear. My SR9 continues to fly (over 6 yrs now) and has withstood many landings... Dick
Posted on: 12/2/2011 2:05 PM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10840224

RE: Applying Dope to GTM Fabric Question
Although I've not built anything from GTM, I'm sure the recommendation to use non-tautening dope is due to the strength of the a/c's framework/construction. Using regular nitrate or butyrate dope (i.e. non-tautening) would very likely warp the framework... and I sure would not want to take a chance of that happening. Good luck! Dick
Posted on: 10/10/2011 9:15 AM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10757991

RE: Rust and crud
Thanks for the info. Well, we're going to give a try, testing the technique on a scrap piece first. Should be interesting...[;)]
Posted on: 9/15/2011 5:43 PM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10718600

RE: Rust and crud
Nice looking exhausts! Gives me encouragement to start mine which I've been putting off as my 'last' task..but which I'll starting shortly [;)] Did you use the dry brush technique in getting your coloring? I've never tried it before but I plan try it this time using some Humbrol paints. Just hope mine turn out as good as yours... Dick
Posted on: 9/12/2011 10:51 AM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10712956

RE: Servo arm thread lock
Not familar with your blue rubber cement, but when I used to use servos with metal shafts, I use Elmers Rubber Cement. Dabbed a little on the screw threads; screws can be removed with minimal effort, and re-inserted with a little more cement as necessary. Now though, I don't have need to use any cement on the current servos... but still find applications for the cement, using it to ensure the integrity of other small parts which might be subject to vibration, etc.
Posted on: 7/27/2011 5:00 PM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10642110

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Yes Jim... Your 12mm shaft dimension is confirmation of my friend 's measurement, so will let him know. Thanks all... Dick
Posted on: 6/28/2011 4:52 PM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10597107

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
A friend just bought a 450R and is wondering what size drill he needs to drill his prop hole. Says he couldn't find any reference to it in the engine manual, so he called Horizon (he doesn't have a computer). They were [u]not[/u] helpful, as the 'tech' (!?) said 'I don't have a clue' (!!!). My friend then measured(?) the engine shaft and says he thinks the prop needs a 12mm drill size hole. I've looked on various Saito web sites but haven't found anything about the correct prop hole size. Is a 12mm drill the correct drill size?...and if not, what size drill is needed? Thanks..
Posted on: 6/28/2011 10:21 AM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10596429

RE: Painting exhaust colors?
Yes, Don C. is a great modeler...does beautiful work. I'm familiar with NZ The Vintage Aviator site...shows good detail, but it's a little too 'clean' for me and I think WWI subjects show better when they are brush finished (which mine is). Not familiar with the Tamiya paint, but if it gives you a fairly fine sand paper finish, then it might be a suitable primer to use before coloring, etc. What I successfully tried and tested, were micro balloons mixed with household white latex paint primer. After finding the 'right' consistency, brushed it on a sample piece of exhaust material, let it dry, and then painted it just to see how it looked. Worked well. With regard to the full size a/c's metal surfaces, I've used litho plate everywhere metal is used on the full size a/c. Then, of course, had to do lots rivet counting, embossing , etc.[;)] Like yours, it's added to the overall looks.
Posted on: 6/10/2011 6:05 PM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10567411

RE: Painting exhaust colors?
Very nice detail/work! Like you, I'll be trying my hand at weathering my s.e.5 exhausts soon - which will be a is a new adventure. From research I've done (so far) the technique I'm looking to try is called 'dry brushing'. Its a technique artists and true miniature scale model builders use. You might google 'dry brushing' and it will give you a feel for the technique. Coloring (mix, etc) in another thing. One thing I think you might consider doing before painting is adding some 'texture' to your exhaust system (stacks, manifold cocers, etc) before any final painting. I can expand a little more on my limited experience if you want to send a PM. What scale is your s.e.5? Dick
Posted on: 6/10/2011 6:21 AM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10566312

RE: Controller mode for Gliders
Can't specifically answer your question, but most fly mode II here in the U.S. Myself, I fly mode II for fixed wing and gliders (which is opposite of way you fly)... and I was a former full scale military pilot. As far as finding mode III a disadvantage when moving 'onto more complex glider' in the future, I wouldn't think so... assuming your RC equipment was programmable enough to meet your comfort level.
Posted on: 5/31/2011 8:41 AM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10549851

RE: JR radio question
Yes... Radio South would be the place to go. A number of years ago, and being a former full scale pilot, I found my JR8103 didn't give me the 'feel' I thought I needed(?) so I had Tony install higher tension springs in my Tx. Found they greatly improved my 'feel' for everything [;)].... and I go back in years before the LA-1 and SL-1
Posted on: 5/24/2011 11:51 AM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10538276

RE: Aurora 9 Manual Index
Thanks Wayne for the [u]great index[/u]. That was my initial reaction too - that, while the manual was good one doesn't easily/readily locate things without considerable search time. When I encountered this I started writing my search words and page number down on paper for later reference. But, with yours it's going to be a time saver and very grateful that you took the time to put together everything in your index and have offered it to everyone here. Thanks again! Dick
Posted on: 4/18/2011 6:27 AM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10469442

RE: Gun Smoke 2011 Photos
Great photography!!! Thanks for sharing your camera with us... Dick
Posted on: 3/7/2011 6:23 AM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10384102

RE: looking for a new plane for my Q-35
I'm using my old (1970) Q35 in my TF SR-9. Plenty of power. However, I did have it 'upgraded' before using it as I wanted to ensure best perfomance. Fits well and was a good choice. Have been flying it now since '06. Dick
Posted on: 2/18/2011 9:03 AM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10345476

RE: CDScaleDesigns SE5a (Quick Build)
Does this mean you'll be doing a build thread?[;)] Dick
Posted on: 11/15/2010 9:35 AM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10136265

RE: Siemens-Schuckert D.III 1/3 Scale
Dave, you work with Art Pesch don't you? Say 'hi ' to him and let him know my SE5 is about finished. Got side tracked this summer so guess it will be next year before getting it up... and I'll be in touch. Jim, please excuse my butting in on your build. Sorry... Dick
Posted on: 11/8/2010 2:55 PM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10122888

RE: Siemens-Schuckert D.III 1/3 Scale
Nice! ...I like it. Looking forward your build. Keeps me going ;) Have fun! Dick
Posted on: 11/8/2010 8:38 AM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10122289

RE: Showing Off - Sopwith Camel
Yes! Tell us about it! Beautiful work . Dick
Posted on: 10/29/2010 4:32 AM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10101718

RE: 1/25 Scale DH2
That wasn't 200 ft - it was 200 in. (inches)! [;)] Dick
Posted on: 10/20/2010 1:17 PM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10081242

RE: covering WWI aircraft
Solartex! Unless you are going into large and heavy planes [u]Solartex[/u] is your [u]best choice[/u]. I've used Solartex, Coverite, Koverall, etc and have found them all good. Of these, I like Solartex best as it's strong, lightest and easiest to handle - followed by Coverite, then Koverall (both heavier). Solartex and Coverite are adhesive backed - heat activated (iron), whereas Koverall requires an adhesive(e.g. nitrate dope, Stixit, etc) be applied to surface(s) where you want it stuck. All go around curved surfaces well (providing you pull/stretch the fabric, and apply adequate heat during process, etc). Dick
Posted on: 10/14/2010 3:08 PM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10068580

RE: Quadra 52 in 1/4 scale Fokker D-VIII ?
Hi warbird - Using a Q52 is would [u]not[/u] be a consideration for me. [u]Too big[/u] an engine for that plane! I'm sure BUSA didn't design their kit - structually - or intend it to fly with such a big engine, even though it would be throttled way down. While I haven't built one, I have built/flown a BUSA 1/3 Pup in which I used a Q52; it was a great flyer...very scale like using a 20-1/10 prop. Also, I have a Q38 in my 23 lb Stinson ... and it easily pulls it around using an 18-6/10 prop. I would think you would be much happier[:D] using engines more in your 23 -25 range, like those you have. If I were building a DVIII today, I would be using my G23, or perhaps something up to a 30 - but, certainly nothing over this. Just some thoughts... Dick
Posted on: 10/2/2010 12:12 PM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10042519

RE: 2010 US Scale Masters Photos
Great pixs!!! Thanks for sharing. Dick
Posted on: 9/24/2010 8:51 AM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10023927

RE: AMR 33% Waco YMF-5 Build
What type of 'Mr Mulligan with spec' are you looking for? Dick
Posted on: 8/3/2010 8:35 PM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9909144

RE: Glueing Aluminium to wood??
Epoxy works very well, but must clean the aluminum much like ByLoudDesign mentioned. A good grade contact cement will also work. I use both, depending on the part and location (latest uses have been on my Stinson and SE5). Advantage of the epoxy is that you can re-position the piece, whereas with contact cement you have very little lattitude to move the part(s) once the two pieces 'contact' each other. Dick
Posted on: 7/25/2010 3:05 PM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9887556

RE: Stinson SR-9 3 Views Needed
I can understand reimbursing someone for good photographs but you would think a simple 3-view could be found somewhere on the internet. Oh well... ;(
Posted on: 7/14/2010 12:09 PM by Author "MaineBear" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9864526