Just need the cowl mounting procedure for the 35% Edge
Hi, I never got a copy of the instructions but then the airplane kind of builds itself. So, the only thing left to do before the beginning of the endless process of finishing is to mount the cowl. Can somebody please jot down the Carden suggested method for this last formal step. Once that's finished its break out the sandpaper and filler, shape down all the edges, fill, sand, cover and paint. Thank You, Mark I understand how a woman can have five closets of nothing to wear. I have 14 airplanes and nothing to fly. The obsession continues. Actually, once this divorce is done I'm seriously going to whittle down my airplane collection and concentrate on the serious stuff like 50cc and 100cc gassers and of course pattern and artistic stuff. One good funflyer is also mandatory. I'm also going to design (with some aide by a couple of graphists) a 50cc F3A-Artistic with a modern wing along the lines of the ZN Majestic but more 3D capable. The fuse shall be all wood, loosely based on the Carden design which comes from traditional building methods with modern materials to make straight building easier. The front end will be designed specifically with cannister in mind, airflow and cooling. Wings will be either built-up or foam depending on whether or not I can enlist a perhaps interested party. Same on empanage. Wood wings will be plug in open structure with D form and i beam. Empanage can be flat or airfoiled. Hmm, that is for later. The canopy may be fiberglass or plastic, again, dependant on the same as the wings. The rough specs are from 220cm by 210 wingspan to 230x220, depending on motor box, cowl and rudder design and final weight goal which is 7 kilos. I plan on doing plugs and molds for canopy and cowl. The goal is to achieve a scratch builders plan for a modern style pattern hybrid for a 50cc that does not result in in a square box with wings (like that Double Vision fuselage that weighs a ton) but a beautifully rounded fuselage that is built over the plans using traditional methods while employing a modern structure that saves weight and increases ridgidity and strength. Builders skill level will be high but not impossible for the average builder who has patience and understands full wood structures. The basic plan is hoped to be completed for building next winter. This is the only mention I'll make about this until I start cutting wood, I spend more time in the shop these days than behind the PC and it always seems to be for somebody else.
Posted on: 9/10/2009 4:48 PM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Carden Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9084804

RE: Need Last three pages of Carden 35% Edge instructions
Hello again. I think the tail is pretty light. I cannot think of anywhere that I may have added extra weight but just in case I am going to cover and hinge the elevators and rudder after the rest is completed and balanced in case I need to cut some holes back there. The ailerons can also be holed out too as they represent a weighty surface well behind the CG. Anyway, I am all finished up on the main building now, canopy decorated and in place ready for putty and glassing of the front deck, fin, decks, right up to the cowl. Could somebody please outline the Carden method of installing the 35% Edge cowl or maybe just type the one short paragraph into a post here. I'll be getting my cans next month and would love to be ready for final finishing as I have a mile of covering waiting and a nice place to paint.
Posted on: 9/10/2009 8:47 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Carden Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9083818

RE: Need Last three pages of Carden 35% Edge instructions
I still awaiting a response so if anyone out there with the few sheets can take the few minutes to send them my way I sure would be thankful. Thanks again, Mark
Posted on: 7/16/2009 6:03 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Carden Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8937625

RE: Need Last three pages of Carden 35% Edge instructions
Just did that. Thanks. Mostly I just like to follow Dennis's construction program and it keeps me in order.
Posted on: 7/11/2009 3:27 PM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Carden Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8924418

Need Last three pages of Carden 35% Edge instructions
Hello everyone, Going through a hostile divorce with a crazy wife who threw away all my papers. Included were the instructions for my Carden Edge. Although I am sure I could bang it out, I would appreciate it if so;ebody could scan and e-mail the last three pages of the instruction sheets. I am at the stage to fit the turtle deck and then start closing things up. My e-mail is MarkNovack@yahoo.com Thanks in advance, Mark Novack US Army Retired
Posted on: 7/2/2009 1:43 PM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Carden Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8901058

APC 13-4W to big for 55AX?
A friend is using the 55AX on his Great PLanes Reactor with a APC 13-4W with troubles of overheating. Is this prop really just too much load for that motor? An APC 13-6 with normal profile works well for the motor but not so well for 3D. Would the APC 12.25-3.75 be a better choice for a 3D propellor? Thank You, Mark
Posted on: 11/18/2008 12:51 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8158233

Was the Futaba S9204 a 4.8 volt only servo?
Hi, Just as asked in the title. Also, if you can, what are the complete specs? I don't have any of the original packages anymore and Futaba discontinued the discontinued servo chart. Futaba should put the discontinued chart back in place. Thanks, Mark
Posted on: 8/1/2008 7:03 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7795715

9zap wcII battery issue, too fast discharge.
Hello, I have two batteries for my 9zap. Both about 7 years old. Now, both have starting discharging unreasonably fast. The voltage readout on the Tx goes down like a second hand after reaching 9.5 volts. On a fully charged battery I made two short flights and while getting ready for a third the warning beep sounded. I changed the battery, started making some expo adjustments and within 5 minutes the low bat warning sounded. Could this be something in the Tx itself? Are there any known Tx faults that can cause this fast drawdown of power? It seems to charge normally enough. The Tx switches on and off properly. I have a second 9zap with a broken antennae on the last two segments. Can I use that one to test the bats? What is the best method for testing? While I write this I have one battery on charge in my normal Robbe charger and the other on the Futaba wall socket charger to see if its possible the Robbe chager went bad. Lastly, these bats are 7 years old. I'm not incapable of soldering well. Are these battery cassettes user reloadable should the problem prove to be only old batteries? If so, may I increase capacity? Thanks, Mark
Posted on: 7/22/2008 3:59 PM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7760037

RE: Turbines Worth It?
I find your first question very interesting. But do you really think it is because of turbines that people buy themselves into unhappiness? How many times have you read a thread about being burned out on this hobby? Probably quite a few times. I think it has far more to do with some basic disatisfaction in life and the hopes that the next airplane will fill that hole in the heart. If the last five airplanes failed to bring satisfaction, well, then buy another. Eventually, this pattern of buying and stuffing boxes into one's closet without gaining the desired satisfaction will cause burnout (see depression) because the basic problem has nothing to do with airplanes. Yes, one can buy the envy of others, but not respect, friends, talent, or happiness. Burnout, obsessive spending, its actually a little bit like drug addiction. When the high is over (after the box is opened), the life is the same. Of course, this does not mean that everyone with dozens of kits has a problem. Just like not everyone that consumes alcohol is a drunk, not everyone who spends wildy on airplanes is an obsessive buyer. Some folks just have that collector's nature within them. However, for some, it is definately just a symptom of something deeper and a little bit more serious. Anyhow, those are my rambling thoughts. Mark
Posted on: 7/22/2007 5:00 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6140964

RE: Hostetler Pitts S1-11
Hi, In response...but little new progress as my daughter has started crawling and standing AND falling. I'm needed more upstairs these days :-) I decided not to add any further lightening to this stage as the box is quite light as is and further lightening would be insignificant to me. The tail I have is the solid tail and it is also quite light. I had thought about a stick and sheeting tail, but again, the tail from PCK is very light and very straight. I'm going to CA on the little strips for scale effect as the stringer for that weighs 2 grams and it will simplify covering of those surfaces as a plus. At this time, the side formers are on and I'm studying the longeron layout to decide the best way to proceed. The airplane stays on the board and I'll continue as I can. I have a little confusion on the longerons. Is there one or not at the top of the fuse sides to the outer edge of the shaping formers from front to back? The plans show the slot cut into certain top formers but not all. I think I'll figure it out by pushing onwards but if you have an idea, I'm all eyes and ears. I found a local club member for the cabanes. He's a metalsmith by trade and has said piece of cake, no problem. If I can find a piece of alu stock for the gear, he can pound those out also. Mark
Posted on: 7/21/2007 2:46 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6137540

RE: Hostetler Pitts S1-11
This is what she looks like pulled out of the jig. Not heavy at all. At this time, the fuse is back in the jig getting the side formers attached and figured out. It should take a while as the nice weather is back for a spell and I'm charging up all 9 airplanes. Even though I have my favorites, I feel badly for an airplane if it gets too lonely sitting on the shelf so they all get flown.
Posted on: 7/14/2007 2:49 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6109232

Help with lightening holes
Hi, I'm pausing to wait for some opinions on lightening up the front of this Pitts S-1-11B. You can see by the plans that this basic stucture will be covered by formers, longerons, and then sheeted from F4 forward. The gear plate and cabanes are aircraft ply, the forward of F3 doubler is 1/4" balsa. The firewall is 3/8" aircraft ply. When bolted on, the bottom wing provides lots of stiffening with the wide bolt spacing x4. The four large openings rear of the canopy took out 152 grams. I could route some more holes or continue per plan and build onwards. Would like some proper thoughts. Thanks, Mark
Posted on: 7/9/2007 1:11 PM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6088557

RE: Hostetler Pitts S1-11
And the basic fuselage is glued up. This step includes gluing in the cross braces, cabane supports and tri-stock, landing gear plate and support braces, tail wheel block, stab support, and I also glued in the wing mount blocks as I had the good epoxy all mixed up. The jig is a simple set of stiff cardboard stock file dividers glued to balsa feet. All looks straight enough. Tomorrow the glue will be dry and I'll clean up the cross brace ends and plan the next step. Mark
Posted on: 7/6/2007 3:12 PM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6078166

RE: Hostetler Pitts S1-11
Good pics. I'm ready with the basic crutch assembly parts. I have to pick up the fuselage jig at the club. I still have no gear or cabanes. Do you think that I could use a bent aluminum cabane with good results? I have a gear for temp support so I can continue as far as mounting the motor. Basic crutch parts. Notice the notched ends on the side bracing. Make those perfect and the fuselage should build itself. Going on during the first gluing are also the cabane supports and gear plate. This basic box will be glued using R-G 24 hour 40:100 mix epoxy with thixotrop and microballoon for any joint gaps. After that dries, the tail block goes in and the basic box gets cleaned up along the gluing joints before the formers go into place. This is all in all a very easy airplane to build. Mark
Posted on: 7/4/2007 1:11 PM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6070086

RE: Hostetler Pitts S1-11
Well, throughout all the distractions of 8 weeks perfect flying weather, I got a little bit done. I really thought I'd get it much faster but I had three other almost done really good airplanes that I snuck by the Pitts. Anyway, here are a few photos of wings and some fuse sides ready to start building. I'm cutting holes per plan plus a few more here and there. I'm hoping for 22 pounds. If I can spend some time in the basement, the fuse looks really easy to build. Can't say how long I'll take, but I'll snap a photo every step of the way on the fuselage.
Posted on: 7/2/2007 12:15 PM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6061620

RE: ys 110 fuel tank
I have used Tetra tanks, Hayes tanks, Dubro tanks, Sullivan tanks, Chinese ARF tanks, Czhekoslovakian ARF tanks on YS motors, all without failure. Unless the tank is simply defective, there should not be a problem at all. Mark
Posted on: 5/9/2007 5:22 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5830926

RE: Building Curve
Try crashing something. NO! Nothing gets me back to the building table better than crashing something. While I don't actually advise crashing, it happens and always re-motivates me to building. It is a hobby...don't force youself if you are not in the mood. Just keep your parts organized so that you remember where you left off. Some motivators other than crashing for me are: Thinking about how everyone at the field fawns over a new airplane; Thinking how clean and organized my shop will be when all the pieces are together and in the airplane; Photo time on RCU; Wow, another flyable; Ah, relief, it is finally done; Coffee time (I assemble the finished airplane, place it on the coffee table or in the living room and watch it like a TV for an hour or two); First flight day (its always family day when I fly a new airplane. I pack up my wife and daughter and a picnic and we spend the afternoon at the field together); and last but not least...Yes, I did it! Still, the biggest motivator is need. I have 15 airplanes at the moment, 6 ready to fly at the charging of batteries, 1 awaiting a header, 1 awaiting a new motor, 1 awaiting a new wing, 1 ready to cover and paint, 1 awaiting final installations, 1 building in progress (for two years mind you), and three unstarted kits. Having little need or even space for another flyable airplane at the moment, my motivation runs more to flying and maintaining the flyables. On the unfinished airplanes, I tend to get several airplanes close to being finished, and then I finish up two or three within a few weeks. That is fun because I get to bring a new airplane to the field each weekend for a few weeks and reinforce the idea amongst my friends that I'm obsessed and nuts about airplanes. Mark
Posted on: 5/8/2007 3:01 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5826154

RE: Why would you "build" a kit rather than assemble and ARF
In answer to your title question, to get it right. The last ARF I purchased was the Chip Hyde Double Vision and that was probably the last ARF I will buy. So many lousy errors to correct and when all corrected it was still fat, overweight compromise. The only ARFs that I have had that did not needed modifying, correcting, strengthening, re-gluing or re-covering were from Kyosho and my ZNLine Madnesses. Tis a funny thing but on my builds the firewall never loosens up, covering never flies off in flight, the motor fits the way I want it to fit, and control geometry is right on the money with the hardpoints in the correct location. Perhaps I might still purchase a Kyosho airplane for something simple, but the ARFs that I do have and like I will simply copy and build them myself after they are pranged.
Posted on: 5/5/2007 10:38 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5813606

RE: Inline IC engines
I was thinking Dornier Arrow.
Posted on: 5/5/2007 8:49 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5813309

RE: What does flutter sound like?
After enough description covering the sound of flutter I'd like to add one thing. Taking for granted a reasonable linkage, sealing the hinge gaps with a piece of clear Oracover/Monokote/whatever brand you like is the single best anti-flutter device that takes about one minute per control surface to install. A couple of experiences of mine. I had an Arrow, ~1980 patternship, fast flyer that had too soft torque rods and unsealed but very closed gap airlerons. First flight saw one aileron flutter and get ripped off, hanging by the torque rod. I managed to save the airplane, fixed the aileron (not the torque rods), sealed the gaps the way I should have in the first place, and never had flutter again. A couple of weeks ago, I was flying a Synergy 90 3D and it had been twitching along the longitudinal axis (that's the roll axis) as if I had a defunct servo. I flew a few minutes, fast, slow, up and down, and after landing discovered that an aileron hard point had come loose inside of the wing. If any airplane will develope flutter, its an airplane with oversized control surfaces. I had properly sealed all hinge gaps prior to ever flying the airplane (its been a standard part of my building since the Arrow incident) and can say that it was that tiny strip of Oracover that kept the aileron from fluttering the airplane apart. I experienced no flutter even at high speed with a floppy aileron. Lastly, sealing hinge gaps really helps aileron and elevator response and makes for a much more trimmable airplane. I even sealed the gaps on an Astrotrainer so that my guests have a more honest airplane to try (I like to share my hobby with friends). A roll of clear covering is enough to seal the gaps of a couple dozen airplanes. Mark
Posted on: 5/5/2007 6:45 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5813098

RE: Thank you Stacey and Mike, 50RV is running great
Hi again, Made four flights tonight. No problems. Easy to start, idles fine, has a bit of a burble after a down line but I have not yet touched the needles. I plan on flying gently for a couple or three gallons and then I'll tweak it to best performance. I'm happy! Thanks again. Mark
Posted on: 5/4/2007 2:53 PM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "ZDZ & RCS Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5811095

Thank you Stacey and Mike, 50RV is running great
I know this is support but I must say thanks for the great service. I called last week and happily ordered the new 201 carb for the 50RV that has been sitting in a ready Wagstaff for two years. Previously, with the 7 carb, the motor would run for three to five seconds on the choked in fuel, however, the fuel in the line retreated back to he tank. Adjusting the screws did nothing. Deciding on the new carb was a winner. It arrived here in Europe 5 days after Stacey sent it out at the USPS office. Yesterday evening I pulled the motor, swapped the arms to the new carb and bolted everything back together. I took Wagstaff out back and called for my wife to hold the airplane. Choke on, two year old fuel still in the tank, ignition on, throttle open, and in about 6 flips I had the short choke run. Choke open, throttle to idle, it started on the 5th flip. Perfect. Fuel was feeding into the carb, acceleration was smooth, idle was great, and the stab left red marks in my wife's calves at wide open. I ran it a few minutes, throttling up and down, entertaining the neighbors and I am completly satisfied with the results. I'm looking forward to the first real flight this evening (I got one three minute flight two years ago when the motor, one time only, ran, albiet poorly, until it died in the air) . Until then, I'll vaccuum the spiders out of the fuselage and clean off the pound of dust that has gathered on the airplane and do a bolt check on everything. Thanks You, Mark P.S. Found a garden spider baby nest in one wheel pant. I removed it carefully and now the little fellows are going to take care of my garden.
Posted on: 5/4/2007 3:54 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "ZDZ & RCS Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5809290

RE: Buy From TOWER HOBBIES and HORIZON HOBBIES whenever possible please !!!!!!!!!!!
Hello, I am 100% satisfied with the service I received from Tower Hobbies. During my ten years in Europe in the Army with an APO address, Tower was among the best companies I had the pleasure of dealing with. They were always polite, efficeint, and they quickly fixed the one mistake that they made, sending the correct item priority and telling me not to return the wrong item until I received the correct one with their return voucher and mailing credit. They had my file, similar to a way the hobby shop guy knows his good customers, albeit not face to face, and treated me always in the fashion that a good customer wants to be treated. For my fidelity, I enjoyed, sometimes, quite steep savings. The ladies with the nice voices always asked if I wanted to hear the daily specials, similar to how a hobbyshop might have the small stand next to the register with the easy to forget but necessary items, and it helped to keep me in stock on glues and glow plugs and other tidbits that would cost three times more at the local shop here in Europe. If you don't understand their format, they try and make phone ordering as pleasant and personnel an experience as possible. Later on, when internet became fast enough, I found their website and ordering system to the the most comprehensive, user friendly system in existence and often used it without a single problem. Without Tower, I never would have enjoyed this hobby the way I do. Mark
Posted on: 5/3/2007 1:05 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5804528

RE: Hostetler Pitts S1-11
OK, top wing is cap stripped and ailerons cut away. I did a rough sanding on it and have a few spots to fill. I placed it on the scale and have 815 grams. Still to be done is beveling the ailerons and hinging and cutting some big holes into the wingtip slabs and rounding of the edges which should result in losing another 50 grams or so. All in all I believe that the top wing should get in at around 2.2 pounds, covered with servos and linkages. I think the bottom wing is a little more but I plan on lightening those wingtips also. If I can keep the wings under 5 pounds total then the finished weight look promising. They are lighter than the POS Double Vision wings, but that is not really hard to imagine. I'll have a few days of detailing out the final sanding and filling and then I'm going to wrap them carefully in bubblewrap and place them in the wing rack ready for final fitting after the fuselage is ready. Regards, Mark
Posted on: 5/2/2007 1:16 PM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5801463

RE: Hostetler Pitts S1-11
Hi, Cool! I'm glad to see a semi-recent post on this thread. My S-1-11B is back on the bench after however long its been. Had a baby (actually my wife had the baby, I just did the fertilzing), built eight other airplanes, crashed one cute little ARF, replaced and leveled my second floor and staircage, sanded all the upstairs walls and repainted the house plus a dozen other things, and now I'm back to the Pitts until I don't know (next honeydo project I guess, restoring the stairs). At this time I'm just finishing up the wings. Some changes I selected are as follows. Lightening holes in all ribs. I extended the ailerons inboard one extra bay for extra control at low speed and used thicker facings than called for on the plans for extra bevel and hinge grip. That offsets my lightening holes. I'm using one servo per aileron, no interstrut pushrod as per scale. I'm using exposed servos mounted on birch rails tied into light ply ribs 1" inboard of the strut rib. That gives me pushrod attachment just outboard from the center of the airleron. I'm going to use 3mm hard ply tabs and short blind-nuts from MP-Jet for strut attachment instead of the brass and bolts and nuts listed on the plans for ease of field assembly. I have four bipes and I like field assembly to be as easy as possible. I should have the wings sanded and hinged (not covered, that will be much later as I'm now torn between flames that I saw on an S2 and the original green/orange/powder blue, dark blue, etc...OMIGOD where did they dream that up) later this week and then I'll put them on the scale to see how they came out as far as weight is concerned. I have a big aluminum sanding board and I'm going to reduce the entire thickness of the sheeting a bit to drop some weight (its overbuilt anyway). That should kill an afternoon nicely. Once that is finished, I'll lay out the fuselage plan and see what weight can be removed. I have a 3W75 sitting around doing nothing and if I feel that the wings are light enough and that the fuselage can come in reasonable, I may plan on that motor instead of the DA100. 24 pounds would be just unlimited on that motor but 24 pounds is asking a lot on this frame. I don't yet know when I have to make the engine decision during the fuselage build, its dependant on the cannister installation. There is lots of room so stuffing in one is easy but two needs more planning. Covering, someday, will be Oracover with auto-laquer on the fiberglass parts. There will be no cockpit or pilot, just an instrument panel if it seems necessary. I have not made a decision on the tail controls as to whether or not they should be enlarged. My Super Stinker does great with normal size tail surfaces and quite moderate throws so I'm thinking per plan on that. However, I'll cross that bridge when I get there as I hate being short on control effectiveness after the airplane is all finished and pretty. I just took a peek at the plans and perhaps an angled counterbalance on elevators might work and not look at all bad. A few holes lined with carbon ribbon would lighten up the tail nicely and keep it nice and stiff. I have all the fiberglass pieces but I'll be bending my own cabanes (brother-in-law has a very nice metal bender) and I'm not sure what I'm going to do for a landing gear. Maybe Abel (a nice girly calender sounds good to me), maybe beg one of the metalsmiths at the club where we have real bluecollar expertise in a wide variety of skills. Anyway, that's where I am now. I'll probably be far behind again as I'm flying almost everyday now. This week the wind is just blowing like crazy (trees are really bending hard) though, so I'll get those wings done for sure. All I have left is cutting out one last aileron, facing it out, cap strips and sanding until everything is straight, even, level, and lighter, plus hinging, beveling and a dry run fitting on horns and servos. I'll check back later in the week or next year :-) Regards, Mark
Posted on: 5/1/2007 3:08 PM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5797275

RE: Your countrys equvilant to the US AMA
In Belgium, the governing body is the Aero-club Royal de Belgique, A.S.B.L. Can't tell you what that encompasses but it is tied into and endorsed by the FAI which covers all aero-sporting areas from models to full size. In simplicity, to fly at a Belgian club as a member, you must be a card carrying member. Cost is about 65.00 US dollars per year at the current exchange rate which covers the discipline of aeromodelling. It covers insurance for liabilities and authorizes entry to FAI events worldwide including official record attempts. The governing sets the laws for flying sites and all related issues. I get a quarterly publication that I flip through and toss into the paper recycle bag. In seven years of flying in Belgium I have never heard anyone speak of any issues regarding the Association other than "its time to pay your dues" and "here is your card". I guess its not very exciting. Here is the card we receive.
Posted on: 5/1/2007 2:09 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5795293

RE: words you don't like to here after crashing
"I told you so" "how much did that cost you" "way to go slick" "better luck next time" "you should have pushed instead" "that's what you get for showing off"
Posted on: 4/26/2007 4:47 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "RC Humor"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5772173

RE: Famous Wife Quotes and Comments
Over the cell phone..."You can fly longer if you want, I'm e-baying"! I was home is ten minutes! Last Sunday..."Stay late if you want, I'm working on my scupture". I flew until 2000hrs. Thank the Lord she has another hobby aside from e-bay! I don't really complain about e-bay. She dresses like fashion plate for the cost of a glowplug and dresses our daughter like a princess for less. Eco friendly and budget wise and never complains about my weekly trips to the hobbyshop for those little odds and ends that cost way to much.
Posted on: 4/24/2007 2:46 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "RC Humor"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5761427

RE: Two magnets to save ounces?
Just before I read your last sentence I had deduced that you require more stick with the reduced nitro content, although I have found that YS do not need the same amount of richening for higher nitro content as other motors. Still, the power difference I experience between 20/20 and 30% heli is incredible. Of course, a couple of magnets around the finsky upstart valve behind that highspeed motivator may do the trick and allow a transatlantic flight of a DZ170 on Li-Po's! :-) Mark
Posted on: 4/23/2007 3:41 PM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "Team RCU - Don Szczur"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5758268

RE: Bad flat spot at ~1/4 throttle on 1.10
Great. I'm very happy that it worked for you also. What did the A-Team guy used to say? "I just love it when a plan comes together". With my Yamadas running sweetly, I once again feel like a real modeller.
Posted on: 4/20/2007 4:47 AM by Author "MarkNovack" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5743428