RE: Joysway Super Mono X
[quote]ORIGINAL: Melololo OK Mass, you can PM your gmail for me and I would send you some pics about the hull inculding joysway and some other. Another thing I want to know is the difference between NFD icon A5 and that in our website. Some details help me alot lol. The list you offered I would consider and soon will be shelvied haha... [/quote] PM sent Mel (hope you don't mind, it's also my brother's name) ;) Guanli's quality is poorer than NFD's (even though my NFD had some quality issues when I received it) and requires wing sponsoons, which the NFD doesn't. I guess it wouldn't hurt to carry both.
Posted on: 9/11/2012 8:36 PM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225711

RE: Joysway Super Mono X
[quote]ORIGINAL: Melololo Hey Mass, bro. Im very sorry the hull for Super Mono X & Offshore Warrior Hull i was not able to find it. I've check in with the suppliers. They only provide the FRP hull not the ABS ones. And I tried to find other suppliers in the web, something maybe you guys have some interest, er...upload pics it's complicated. Do you have other chat tools? Maybe it's more convenient for us. On the icon A5, our website banggood.com is already hit the shelf, you may find in the category Airplane Hope it make a little hep for you. More wishlists i am waiting haha. [/quote] I have a chat client for Gmail, MSN, Yahoo, Facebook, or other chat. You all carry the Guan Li Icon A5, which is poorer quality than the NFD Icon A5. Here are the NFD links for the 1300 and 1800mm A5s: http://nfdhobby.com/en/c_2.asp?id=1773 http://nfdhobby.com/en/c_2.asp?id=1822 Some other Joysway items I don't see are the X Blaze. There are alot of professional racers that want the Super Version of this boat: Regular Version: http://www.joysway-hobby.com/Product_show.asp?proid=475 Super Version: http://www.joysway-hobby.com/Product_show.asp?proid=478 and the Bullet: http://www.joysway-hobby.com/Product_show.asp?proid=506 The Offshore Warrior you have listed has pictures of the older MK1 model. This is the new MK2 model, is that what you're carrying or the older one?: http://www.joysway-hobby.com/Product_show.asp?proid=472 You can tell by looking at the back of the hull. The MK1's canopy extends to the end of the rear deck, while the MK2's canopy doesn't go all the way back. If you are carrying the MK2, you need to update your website picture. While I think the Joysway Magic Vee is a superior boat to the Double Horse 7009 because it has a 2.4 Ghz transmitter, it looks like the 7009 still sells pretty well on your website. Double Horse has a newer 7010 model which you may want to start carrying. Looks like they swapped the motor and battery positions: http://www.dhgate.com/double-horse-high-speed-racing-boat-dh-7010/p-ff80808137e9dbf301380a27c3573a7a.html Thanks.
Posted on: 9/10/2012 3:22 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223462

RE: Joysway Super Mono X
[quote]ORIGINAL: Melololo ok, i'll try, btw if you have more wishlist, do not hesi to tell me, im waiting for it, lol [/quote] This is why I pimp you guys out. Your motto should be "We'll stock any item you need"
Posted on: 9/7/2012 3:16 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220455

RE: Joysway Super Mono X
Sweet, OK, here's a wish list: Replacement hull for the Super Mono X Offshore Warrior Hull without radio (Aaron needs to stock this) Icon A5 by NFD and spares Let's see what you can do ;)
Posted on: 9/6/2012 7:29 PM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220215

RE: Joysway Super Mono X
Thanks Melololo, I forgot to update this forum: I got Aaron to start stocking spares: Stock the spare motor: http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Re...0487522012019E Stock 20A ESC: http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Jo...0487522012019E I recommend getting an aftermarket 60A ESC (nothing bigger as the weight will hurt you), although if you're going to go back with a Joysway ESC, get the 30A: http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Jo...0487522012019E Did you find another source?
Posted on: 9/6/2012 2:39 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11219231

RE: Joysway Super Mono X
Found the replacment motor, worthless if you don't speak Chineese: item.taobao.com/item.htm More spares: http://joysway.taobao.com/search.htm?spm=a1z10.3.17.2&search=y&viewType=list&orderType=_hotsell Good thing is Joysway is preparing to ramp up in the US.
Posted on: 8/26/2012 8:49 PM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11207127

RE: FLORIDA lakes or ponds to race boats???
I'm probably too far away from you but you, but anyone near my area is welcome to run your FE in my lake. I'm right by the gate\mailboxes which is open during the day and closes about 7:00. But I'll be happy to buzz ya in and would be happy to help you rescue your boat. My lake: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tu3pqnpnQew
Posted on: 8/22/2012 3:03 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201826

RE: Joysway Super Mono X
[quote]ORIGINAL: Wavekatcher I finally got my SMX to a lake and was able to get 3 more fantastic runs. This is a great little boat. Flipped her 2 times on her hatch, no problem, just a blip of throttle, she self rights, and I was off again. Still running all original stock. 1800mah batteries 3S. I only run for 4 minutes (WOT) to keep down the heat. Batteries come in around 3.82 per cell. The motor comes in hot, but not overly hot. Love this lil bugger. I oil the motor bearings at the end of the day. Now to build my new shaft Hey MassiveO, Did you get your Icon A5 yet? [/quote] Hey Wave, glad you're having a blast with your SMX without any issues. The motor they used can barely cope with the stock weight of this boat. The extra 100 grams my ESC and battery add really push it over the edge. I'm currently retrofitting a new motor mount so a standard motor can be installed, but it's going to take me awhile to remove the existing mountng structure. I've also started on a new straight shaft using the original diameters of the stock shaft. I plan on getting the Offshore Warrior Mk2 or Bullet. Joysway is ramping up for major distribution in the US and I'm anxiously waiting. I got my Icon A5, but unfortunately it's victim to poor Chineese quality. I've already had to do some fixes\repairs out of the box. I tried to fly her off the water, but my inexperience with fixed wing is too much, so I'll try some land takeoffs first to get the hang of it, get her trimmed and determine if I have to add dual rates to my TX. Here are some pics: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=22347107&postcount=144
Posted on: 8/18/2012 5:58 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11197651

RE: Choosen Offshore Warrior 2 Updates(Video Inside)
Thanks for the video over at OSE, guys have gotten this boat with upgrades to 70mph. Bill Oxidean has 2 world records with this boat.
Posted on: 8/17/2012 2:15 PM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11197129

RE: Choosen Offshore Warrior 2 Updates(Video Inside)
Hey Monnette, I'm jealous.........I'm still waiting for Aaron to get the new SKUs in, but I'll have to email him to verify that he can get them. I'm getting anxious and have found a dealer in Canada that has the Warrior sans TX\RX for 200 shipped, so it's an option. You're not the first I've heard that the Warrior is insane on 3S. I say play with it a bit more and you'll get used to the speed and sensitivity on 3S. I know my Super Mono X requires very light touch when I'm running at speed, but I'm used to it by now. My neighbors have a hard time controlling it at speed and quickly hand the controller back to me. 6-7 minute run times is a long time..........does your LVC cut-in at this time? Put your boat in a tub or bucket of water with the canopy off and submerge it just up to the canopy line and see where the water is coming in from. It's par for the course to have to seal all screw\bolt entries into the hull as well as cooling line entry\exit. A lexan cover also works very well with the hatch. Use a piece of sponge or synthetic chamois in the hull to capture loose water. See my Super Mono X thread on extending the servo arm tube into the chasis to 'raise the water line', which is also greased. The turn fins help prevent you from 'spinning out'. I guess putting them at a greater down-angle could increase stability earlier into a turn, but it also adds drag and they shouldn't be in the water when running straight at speed. I'll defer to more experienced boaters familiar with turn fins however. The collar is good insurance Get some videos for us
Posted on: 8/16/2012 3:31 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195490

RE: Joysway Super Mono X
[quote]ORIGINAL: M2them Your posts here have been very informative. Thanks. I burned up my stock ESC within the first week. I was running 1800mah 20c at the time. My grub screw was loose out of the box. I didn't know this until my drive shaft and prop came off while running. Somehow, my buddy found it! Lesson learned! Despite the cheap ESC , I am very impressed with the speed and handling of this boat. I will be checking back to see how your new ESC works out. [/quote] The new ESC is bullet-proof but too heavy. Go with a 60A ESC or anything that weighs about the same as stock, which is 40g. The 120A SeaKing ESC is twice the weight and weighs down the bow. Joysway actually does make a replacment motor so Aaron from Banggood is seeing if he can stock it. I'm very happy with the boat otherwise.
Posted on: 8/10/2012 6:15 PM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11188798

RE: Choosen Offshore Warrior 2 Updates(Video Inside)
Thanks Monnette. Aaron is going to stock the new version and hopefully the different offerings (RTR, ARTR, PNF)
Posted on: 8/8/2012 9:32 PM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186481

RE: getting started
Don't forget about a rescue boat or other means to get to your boat unless you get a self-righting hull.
Posted on: 8/8/2012 9:00 PM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186438

RE: Converting to boatism
Make sure you wear your thick skin going over at OSE. There's alot of knowledge there, but some of it comes with eliteism and scathing intolerance for newbies.
Posted on: 8/8/2012 5:46 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185338

RE: Converting to boatism
Has the smoke cleared from the FighterCat soap opera?
Posted on: 8/8/2012 5:07 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185308

RE: Converting to boatism
Well for me, spending 15 minutes to half an hour trying to rescue your boat for 4-5 minutes of fun isn't worth it. If this happens once in a blue moon that's one thing. Having to do that even once per outing isn't worth it. If you have a decent, reliable rescue boat then going with a faster, but more vulnerable to flipping hull isn't a big deal.
Posted on: 8/8/2012 4:46 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185289

RE: Choosen Offshore Warrior 2 Updates(Video Inside)
I think it looks better as well. I wouldn't be surprised if the Mk2 shares the same hull as the Super Mono X, albeit in fiberglass. I'm going to see if I can get Aaron from Banggood to carry the Mk2 as well as the hull-only version. There's no US dealers that carry this boat and although Banggood is based in China, all products have free shipping (he does have a US warehouse but only the popular products are held there). At least he's carrying some Joysway spares, something else that can't be found in the US (I know you're in the Philipines, but for the rest of us in the US, we have little options). One more favor: Do you have the SKU for the hull-only version? I'm sure it's different than the RTR version and maybe it's marked on your box. It will help me help Aaron in getting it stocked. Thanks.
Posted on: 8/8/2012 3:48 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185250

RE: Converting to boatism
What kind of water conditions will you be running in? You have some sort of rescue boat planned?
Posted on: 8/8/2012 3:22 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185254

RE: Choosen Offshore Warrior 2 Updates(Video Inside)
Looks like you've got the improved Warrior II........nice score: http://radioactivemodels.ie/store/product_info.php?products_id=1442 "New Features include a change to the hull shape to allow the boat to self-right even faster, to avoid water ingress. The rear fittings have been modified for extra strength, control and durability." http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/117423/ Now I really want one.
Posted on: 8/7/2012 8:05 PM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185023

RE: Choosen Offshore Warrior 2 Updates(Video Inside)
[quote]ORIGINAL: monnette Thanks you guys that gave your inputs. Have made my decision and ordered the Offshore warrior yesterday, I have bought a ARTR without the TX and battery for 630yuan RMB about 100US$ Isnt it a good deal. I also ordered a 11.1v 2200mah 3S 25C lipo same brand Joysway. and an IMAX lipo B6AC charger. I prefer to use the stock battery for the meantime and later get a second better one. Also ordered the Flysky GT3B radio for only 32US$ for my TX. Hope to get all these in the coming 2 days. I am very excited. Cant wait to run it this coming Sunday. Cheers, Monnette [/quote] Do they sell online internationally? I'd love to order that same deal. BTW I'm a fellow Flip (asuming you're Filipino), although I don't speak Tagalog. Oh yeah, did Martin confirm if it's self-rigthing?
Posted on: 8/7/2012 5:14 PM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11184135

RE: RC Surfer
[quote]ORIGINAL: kitekook MOK... I like the idea of a DIY prop shaft. We have always used SS shafts...so brass is stiff enough to do the job? Are you using this setup with powerful motors/ high revs??? Has durability been an issue? I mean...has one just flew apart under load? Very interesting idea, thanks for sharing. [/quote] The boat I'm running it on is 15" and is under 700 grams loaded. The stock motor is 3300KV on 3S, so you can imagine it revs pretty high. I'm using a 30mm prop. Durability hasn't been an issue but I can't say how well it would hold up on a larger boat running a larger prop. I don't think there's much risk in experimentation though as the parts are cheap. You'll have to see how well it stands up to salt water though. It should get a green patina that should help protect it. You do have to be careful not to bend the brass tube when handling it. I need to actually downscale as with my namesake I went from a stock .098" flex setup to a .138" Octura flex setup to a similar diameter straight shaft. My next solid shaft will be smaller in diameter closer to original.
Posted on: 8/7/2012 5:09 PM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11184830

RE: RC Surfer
[quote]ORIGINAL: YPC [b]Thanks M O K [/b]........I see how you have it working...ie the stuffing tube is effectively also the bush, both top and bottom. With the custom rc surfer the stuffing tube is epoxied in pretty 'good and solid' so the bush needs to be a separate 'replaceable' item. I use either 3.2 mm Stainless Steel or Spring Steel.....the Stainless is less prone to corrosion.......and the Spring Steel has better rigidity..........both have worked well. I do ensure that the rods are absolutely 'true' ( straight) before permanently setting everything in place. I reckon a 3.2mm rod has a similar degree of 'flex' as a 'flex shaft' [b]under torque[/b] would have. Some feel that 'because they are fitting a flex shaft, absolute 'alignment' is not all important- BUT- poor alignment can cause 'oscilation' along the flex shaft which will cause vibration and friction. Dominic (Bro'Surfer) [/quote] The brass tubing comes in sizes so that one will fit inside the other, so essentially you can have an outer brass tube that's epoxied in, and then a smaller tube inside that can act as a liner. When I cut my brass tubing, the tubing cutter creates just enough of a lip that acts as a stop for the inner brass tube. The lip is easily removeable simply by running a Philips head to widen the lip if you want. Your dog collar prevents the other end from coming out. I initially bought some stainless rod for my straight shaft, but the brass tubing turned out to be strong enough and was much lighter. I have made a prototype carbon mainshaft, but I'll have to redo it as I had to make couplers since I didn't have the right diameter carbon rod. My next shaft will be carbon rod of the appropriate size. Great thing about carbon rod it's less prone to vibrations.
Posted on: 8/7/2012 2:21 PM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11184653

RE: RC Surfer
[quote]ORIGINAL: YPC [b]Hi Massiveoverkill.[/b].......great info.....that set up is definitely a quality option. With the flex end fitted - requiring the wider brass sleeve - you have to have a clear stuffing tube - How do you 'prevent' your lead teflon bushes from moving up the tube ? [/quote] YPC, the shaft rides in a brass stuffing tube. The brass coupler that connects the flex tip
Posted on: 8/7/2012 11:08 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11184410

RE: RC Surfer
I'm also against flexshaft\teflon liner setups......too much maintenence and drag, I now make my own as well. You can put a small flex tip at the end of a straight setup for easier motor alignment: [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/MassiveOverkill/SuperMonoX/23d9e902.jpg[/IMG] No need to solder either (well I do solder the flex tip so it lasts longer from grub-abuse). Permatex red works fine and is easily removeable using candle-heat. I've rebuilt a few simply by heating up the Permatex bond with a candle flame. All the materials including brass are readily available from Ace Hardware. You do need to buy prop stubs (these can be made as well but are more of a PITA to do), though they're cheap at a couple bucks from OSE, including the flex cable.....one flex cable would give enough material to make 20 tips. You could also cannibalize your existing flex if you're sure you'll never re-use it.
Posted on: 8/7/2012 7:32 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11184154

RE: Couple of beginner questions
[quote]ORIGINAL: diy-pro It could be done if the teflon liner was pin holed with maybe a 1/32 or 1/64 drill bit but i still dont get why people use those things [/quote] And if the teflon liner spins within the stuffing tube, as it normally does.....not by a whole lot, but enough to where that hole is no longer aligned with the hole in your stuffing tube.
Posted on: 8/6/2012 3:32 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11182560

RE: Couple of beginner questions
[quote]ORIGINAL: NobodyFamous on a well setup flex drive system, greasing is not an issue. You should only have to loosen the motor coupler on the flex drive side, slip the whole thing out the back, put some grease on it and slide it back in. I do this in less then 5 minutes on my Genesis (upgraded flex drive with OSE parts) If you are really looking for something great, find a grease fitting and grease pump, just fill it after each use. done! (I have not seen one of these yet, but they must exist) [/quote] Grease fitting won't work with a teflon liner..............grease fittings only work with brass (or liner-less) stuffing tubes. Please show me an example of someone using a grease fitting with a teflon liner flexshaft set up.
Posted on: 8/6/2012 2:49 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11182540

RE: Choosen Offshore Warrior 2 Updates(Video Inside)
You've probably already read my threads and see my videos on the SMX. Blowing the ESC: Stay with 1800 mAh batteries on the stock ESC. You'll get about 4.5 minutes run time, but going with 2200 mAh like I did adds more weight, which puts more load on the motor\ESC, not just from the added weight, but also from the increased amperage. If you get a replacement ESC, 60A is the most I'd go because of weight. The bigger boats are nicer and beefier, simply because there's alot more room to install beefier components..........unforunately very few of them are self-righting........you'll see some self-righting ones that use flood chambers and I looked into these, but many of them require hatch tape, which frankly is just one more thing that takes time away from enjoying the boat and one more maintenance item to keep in stock. Boca Bearings are a great upgrade to any boat, not just the SMX...although they're more likely to be needed sooner on the SMX. If you decide to buy it, lube the bearings before the first run (although you really shouldn't have to as they're all supposed to be shipped with grease from the factory, but alas we're talking Chineese labor) and after every outing using a pen oiler. The 2.4 Ghz radio on the SMX looks cheap and doesn't have a whole lot of extra trim features, but it works just fine and has plenty of range. At the very worst, if you want something better, it will make a great recovery boat. The number one drawback to the SMX is it's propietary motor mount, which uses the bell-mount system found on park flyers, which prevents you from upgrading\replacing the motor. I've had to rewind my motor after it burned up...........it actually runs better on the rewound motor, but this isn't something anyone can or is willing to do. That being said, I would get the Offshore Warrior.............I've seen videos of this boat absolutely flying. Fighter-Cat Racing copied this boat (or just buy them and upgrade the hardware and call it their own) and it's a great small boat. It may be my next upgrade.
Posted on: 8/5/2012 9:13 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11181609

RE: Couple of beginner questions
The boat leaning to the port side is OK as it's should only be like that when it's resting. Once you apply power, the prop torque will offset it. You can definately fit a longer pack in there. Keep in mind that you can run NiMH batteries to where their capacity is nearly exhausted, unlike a LiPo. Those plastic sheaths are teflon tubes. Many who go away from them just use brass liners. You want to keep the shorter, larger diameter teflon piece that surrounds the prop stub, unless you plan on making a brass liner the same size. Using heavier grease, especially with a teflon tube is going to create alot of drag. You can get a tubing cutter from wherever you get the brass tube from. They're cheap, about 10-15 bucks: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1272539&cp=2568443.2568452.2631238.1260857
Posted on: 8/4/2012 11:08 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11180777

RE: Couple of beginner questions
8 minutes is really a long time. I only get 4.5-5 minutes from my higher-rated LiPo batteries. Have you felt the motor and speed controller after a full run? If they're not running hot then you may be OK getting a higher capacity battery or even an 8.4V, but you have to be careful as I'm not sure if your integrated RX\ESC will properly adjust voltage to the BEC circuit like a proper brushless ESC would. Also my boat was very sensitive to weight changes, so getting a larger battery usually means more weight, which can affect the characteristics of the boat. There's also clearance issues. I would just get another 1100 mah 7.2 cell Hobby People carry spares but they're currently out of stock: http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php/chargers-batteries/batteries/car-batteries/nimhnicd-carboat-batteries-2/battery-pack-magic-offshore-lite-7-2v.html Check your manual for maximum dimensions, or even measure it yourself to see how much room you have, which may allow you to go with a more conventional flat pack instead of the triangular pack. Better yet, post a picture of the battery area so I can confirm the layout is the same as mine, and if so, you can use 105x35x22 mm for maximum battery size. Unfortunately if you don't check the flexshaft and water gets on part of the flex that isn't lubed, it will start to rust. You can easily convert it to straight shaft as I did by placing brass tube over part of the flex that's encased in the stuffing tube. You'll want to seal\glue the brass tube to the flex so water can't get using something like Permatex red. My boat actually picked up quite a bit of speed after doing this mod and getting rid of the teflon liner (you keep the larger teflon piece that goes over the prop stub. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11112193 The brass tube can be found at Ace Hardware (same with Permatex red) and I think you can order it online. You'll need a tubing cutter, but I suppose a dremel will work as well. With this setup you don't have to remove the shaft completely like with the flex setup. You undo the grub screw holding onto the motor shaft and before sliding the shaft back, slather some lube on the shaft at the motor end, then slide the shaft back as far as the motor coupling will permit and then slab some more lube on he prop stub and then push it back in and tigthen the grub screw. If you properly seal the flexshaft (it must be cleaned thoroughly) to the brass tube, you won't have to worry about flex shrinkage and you can run the dog collar closer to the end of the stuffing tube out back, which will help with water intrusion. Dry run the new setup and see if you get whipping of the shaft in the stuffing tube at the motor end, if you do you can cut a small piece of your discarded teflon tube and place it at the motor end of the stuffing tube, just make sure you let it protrude outside the stuffing tube and secure it there so it doesn't slide back. With this setup, I can relube in under a minute and can go one or two days without relubing the shaft.
Posted on: 8/2/2012 4:22 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11178176

RE: Couple of beginner questions
8 minutes is really a long time. I only get 4.5-5 minutes from my higher-rated LiPo batteries. Have you felt the motor and speed controller after a full run? If they're not running hot then you may be OK getting a higher capacity battery or even an 8.4V, but you have to be careful as I'm not sure if your integrated RX\ESC will properly adjust voltage to the BEC circuit like a proper brushless ESC would. Also my boat was very sensitive to weight changes, so getting a larger battery usually means more weight, which can affect the characteristics of the boat. There's also clearance issues. I would just get another 1100 mah 7.2 cell Hobby People carry spares but they're currently out of stock: http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php/chargers-batteries/batteries/car-batteries/nimhnicd-carboat-batteries-2/battery-pack-magic-offshore-lite-7-2v.html Check your manual for maximum dimensions, or even measure it yourself to see how much room you have, which may allow you to go with a more conventional flat pack instead of the triangular pack. Better yet, post a picture of the battery area so I can confirm the layout is the same as mine, and if so, you can use 105x35x22 mm for maximum battery size. Unfortunately if you don't check the flexshaft and water gets on part of the flex that isn't lubed, it will start to rust. You can easily convert it to straight shaft as I did by placing brass tube over part of the flex that's encased in the stuffing tube. You'll want to seal\glue the brass tube to the flex so water can't get using something like Permatex red. My boat actually picked up quite a bit of speed after doing this mod and getting rid of the teflon liner (you keep the larger teflon piece that goes over the prop stub. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11112193 The brass tube can be found at Ace Hardware (same with Permatex red) and I think you can order it online. You'll need a tubing cutter, but I suppose a dremel will work as well. With this setup you don't have to remove the shaft completely like with the flex setup. You undo the grub screw holding onto the motor shaft and before sliding the shaft back, slather some lube on the shaft at the motor end, then slide the shaft back as far as the motor coupling will permit and then slab some more lube on he prop stub and then push it back in and tigthen the grub screw. If you properly seal the flexshaft (it must be cleaned thoroughly) to the brass tube, you won't have to worry about flex shrinkage and you can run the dog collar closer to the end of the stuffing tube out back, which will help with water intrusion. Dry run the new setup and see if you get whipping of the shaft in the stuffing tube at the motor end, if you do you can cut a small piece of your discarded teflon tube and place it at the motor end of the stuffing tube, just make sure you let it protrude outside the stuffing tube and secure it there so it doesn't slide back.
Posted on: 8/2/2012 3:34 AM by Author "MassiveOverkill" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11178170