RE: Cox cylinder/head tap
I think we are on the same page Bruce. The drill rod is a bit harder to get a clean cut that small though, so I'm still figuring that one out. I did cut a female thread in aluminum single pointing..., and it turned out pretty well. I'm considering doing this and then having a sleeve press into the case after threading so that when I cut threads it will he l be a through hole with a open space behind to make it a bit less tedious. Looks like James engine is out of the taps so I'm gonna have to figure it out this way....what kind of tool do you think you would use to make this cut? HSS or the small carbide I'm using? Its a shame a old Cox cylinder isn't harder or I would consider splitting it and using a plug to stretch the OD a bit. Todd
Posted on: 9/18/2012 12:42 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232640

RE: This is ridiculous...
Soldering those should be a breeze. How hot of iron/gun are you using? Most the time I have seen people have "sticking issues" is when they don't have enough heat and are melting the solder with the iron and dripping it onto a cold joint. Sometimes it is easier to avoid overheating stuff with a hotter tool that can put the heat in quickly and not give it time to startdissipating into the rest of the components. I use a 100 w gun for almost everything except PCB even if it means I only have to touch the tip to the work for 1 second or so. You might also try tinning the pieces seperately then joining. One of those skills once you master you will never want to use a wire nut, butt connector, or twisting again. Not trying to down on you, just saying if you can't get the joint you described to take, its a matter of skills or heat level over the materials most likely. Flux never hurt either[:D]
Posted on: 9/18/2012 11:29 AM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232575

RE: Cox cylinder/head tap
Most of the reason I chose the Cox is that this is mostly a "zero dollar" project and I have a bunch of new sure starts in a bucket as donors, most the metal..., and besides the tap, all of the tooling. It is less of a project to power a specific project and more to learn new skills and practice them. Like many right now the budget is tight so I have been hopping around a lot doing
Posted on: 9/6/2012 7:17 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220199

RE: Cox cylinder/head tap
From my recent experience I don't think the feed of the lathe is the issue, although the "half nut" rates stop at about 80 for most lathes, the normal feeds may start to fit the bill...of course the a the has to be left in gear and reversed between passes then. My lathe will longfeed at between .0197 per rev to .0008 per rev so there is a lot of room there for different thread counts. The real issue I think is finding a appropriate cutte with a small enough radius to make that sharp of a thread without spending a ton of money. That and the losses from flex of that small of material, even if it only 1" long its like having a foot of 1/2 inch stock hanging out of the chuck and its hard to setup to tailstock and thread a object that close to the chuck?One can hand grind a HSS bit to a point, but then you deal with a lower quality cutter as far as durability, etc... My tap actually chases threads decent..I haven't tried to tap a hold yet, but making it leads me to believe a internal thread could be successfully single-pointed for the cylinders. Making a fine needle valve would admittedly be that much harder than this.Of course I am a novice machine St with very modest tooling and knowledge. Li have contacted James engine to see if they still have tas, but it seems they are out. My latest thought is that i'm thinking of trying to just make a 4 cylinder long head that uses studs to clamp the head and whole cylinder to the crankase and will likely just turn the threads off the "jug" , seal with brass washers and make a head for all four cylinders as one piece, perhaps even using regular glow plugs. This would eliminate the need to do any fine threading. This is a winter project I am just trying to overcome the cylinder mounting hurdle ahead of time so I can design around it. It seems like a cool looker too. The next difficulty is figuring out how to make a crankshaft with seperate "chambers" for each cylinder so that they do not have to be all on a common journal and can be fired 90 degrees apart. A set of broaches to make nice square holes might be needed I'm sure HMEM might be a better outlet for this thread, but I like picking the brains of folks here too. Still a bit of flying weather this year so after I see if my tap works on a bare hole I will put this project back to the "design" stage while I burn what fuel I can with the weather I've got left. If anyone has any ideas on a crank/crancase that would still allow seperate chambers for intake/transfer I'd love to hear them. Has there ever been any other method of model engine fuel control besides threaded needles? Todd
Posted on: 9/6/2012 2:46 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11219938

RE: OS 10 FP issue
I have actually tried the collet method by putting a liner in a 5c collet in a collet block (to supply the taper to squeeze the collect) and then put the whole deal in a small arbor press to apply pressure. This was a ABC liner and actually it worked pretty well although it takes less force than you think, and I overdid it and had a too tight of fit. 5c collets can be had in most sizes for about 5 bucks, so if you already have access to a press..... the collet block is about 40$ , but a round hole might be sufficient to squeeze a collet. I'm planning on trying again when I get another worn engine. Todd
Posted on: 9/4/2012 7:19 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11217741

Cox cylinder/head tap
Has anyone here ever had or heard of a tap for the 17/32-40 thread in the crankase and cylinder for Cox .049? I'm tinkering with the possibility of some engine projects and figured this to be the most difficult part. Here is a picture of one I made but it is of leaded steel and I'm not so sure it will work properly. I have considered single point threading the cases as well, but that seems very tedious so I figured I would see if any of the halfers here had any ideas. Thanks in advance, Todd
Posted on: 9/3/2012 5:46 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216229

RE: Looking for Cox engines and parts
Its a shame some folks today make it so hard to do nice things for others.
Posted on: 9/3/2012 9:32 AM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11215715

RE: Molex battery connectors?
Actually you basically ARE right. A "Molex" plug is a clear-ish plastic plug with metal crimp on pins inside like the tamiya and pc plugs mentioned. It is not 1 specific plug. They come from 1 pin to about 20 pins and the name is more of a type than a specific plug or standard. Most the time in this hobby though if someone says "molex" they mean a tamiya plug, although the standard 2-pin molex is not actually the same exact plug. Molex is actually the name of the company that pioneered most of these type plugs many years ago. Todd
Posted on: 8/22/2012 4:54 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11202619

RE: MODEL AIRPLANES STORAGE WARS AUCTION FULTON NEW YORK
Aircraptor, I hope you are enjoying your Lol's [:D] I know you stated you were done here, Does that go for more than just this thread? [:D] Perhaps this info can benefit others like me who may have been curious? Anyway..I spent a bit of time and actually searched the web, read and made a few phone calls and it actually looks like my statement holds truth in the specific regions i researched and the storage company can only " By law, the self storage company can only recoup the amount of money they were owed for unpaid rent and applicable late fees and auction surcharges. Any money raised by an auction in excess of these charges must be returned to the previous owner of the unit via a check!" Of course, I can respect if you were busy with your "engine guy" , and didnt have time to consult with your "Law Guy". So figured you would just respond to my polite yet curious post by being a know it all as usual.[8|] Nice how you avoided the question of what you would do in this scenario of being unable to pay, my question assumed you didn't have someone to loan you the money etc within the phrase "whatever reason you couldn't get it paid" I hope someone will get the models and enjoy them. Todd
Posted on: 8/22/2012 12:06 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11202335

RE: MODEL AIRPLANES STORAGE WARS AUCTION FULTON NEW YORK
[quote]ORIGINAL: airraptor [8|] Really?????? [/quote] Just curious? Why does that seem that far out to you? I know if I ended up with a storage locker of RC planes that I was financially unable to get out I would rather them go to a Modeler than someone just looking to resell them. Plus, I imagine the debtor would want the storage place to get good money for them as its likely similar to a repossesed car in that they can still harass you for the unreclaimed balance, and possibly even have to give you whatever excess they recover via auction(although I'm sure they will always find a way to consume it through auction and late fees) I'm not saying this IS the law. But its not that far out. What would you do if it were your locker and for whatever reason you couldn't get it paid? I think they publish debtors names as well so it could be a acquaintance who knows what is in the locker and just wants a Modeler to get it. And yes I see it is the storage place posting, just surprised you think the idea is that crazy....although it wouldn't be my first
Posted on: 8/21/2012 7:34 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201583

RE: Pinch Test
I set up to get just a tiny rise in RPM when I pinch. You have to make sure you do a quick pinch and release and don't pinch and hold waiting to hear a rise....because if you keep pinched it will riseor flameout sooner or later. When you fly a plane and make a hard turn you should hear a ever so slight raise in rpm when pulling a lot of "g"s. Or at least that's how I feel. The point as i see it is to have just enough richness to overcome a high-g caused lean condition. Otherwise if you tune to no increase at all on the pinch one has to assume it goes lean when pulling a lot of g~force?
Posted on: 8/21/2012 4:36 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201363

RE: MODEL AIRPLANES STORAGE WARS AUCTION FULTON NEW YORK
Maybe it's his stuff?
Posted on: 8/20/2012 11:01 AM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199781

RE: Grammar
I have as poor or poorer spelling and grammar as most here, along with a bad habit of capitalizing odd words that do not require it. However, I appreciate when it appears like a poster actually TRIES to do a decent job. I think this is what bothers most folks that people accuse of being grammar police. When people post and you know they have got to have thought "Is this how you speel that word? I KNOW that has got to be wrong?....... Ahhh! The heck with it!!" If you put i before e or vice-versa thats one thing, But when your sentence looks like "i dooont now how to chrage a bettries of thos volts bu u culd look at the instrctsyuns leterz dude" It makes it look like you could care less about yourself or the importance of helping someone with your post. If you are really that lost spell-checker is pretty easy to at least see that you have got it wrong and is usually on by default. I think it not only speaks poorly on oneself, but is also disrespectful to the other posters or the OP. I mean can you really say you are trying to help someone answer a question, but not care enough to try and ensure they can clearly understand the answer you posted? Now, someone point out all my errors instead of recognizing I attempted to do a decent job![:D]
Posted on: 8/15/2012 12:14 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11194606

RE: Would appreciate advice for give-away plane
I think Bmatthews has a few good points. I've been in a lot of situations like this when the issue the person said was stopping them from enjoying the hobby wasn't really the issue. I think the best way you could repay him IMHO might be to pick him up and drag him along for a day at the field, Or if you have something that would fly at the soccer park maybe plan a trip out to fly your plane and give him a chance to fly it if he wants, or just watch...etc and see what his interest level is. Sometimes building someone a plane can be frustrating for both parties if the recipient isn't really all that interested in flying models anymore. How much did he fly when he was a club member? Was he a fly all day type modeler, or someone who just liked to hang out at the field and go to club meetings,etc? I know I have set my Dad up with a plane..., and he has local places withing a stone's throw he could fly but he has never flown them unless I had it in the air and almost MADE him take the controls. He was a modeler all of my youth and had RC planes when I was young , But I guess some folks just lose the drive (Although a hobby is DEFINITELY good for older folks health). My input would be to try to include your buddy in some flying/modeling activities first and then go from there based on his interest and at that point it will be easier to tell what model might suit him best? If you do decide to get him set up with a plane I know that my parkzone ultra micro T-28 is a insane amount of fun and a great, docile, scale looking flyer that comes in its own box that would fit in a scooter basket nicely and one can have a ton of fun flying in a area the size of a half a football field or smaller. Tell us how that Enya runs I've always wanted one! [:D] Todd
Posted on: 8/11/2012 2:29 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189612

RE: OS AX 46 needs more power
Ooooooh Airraptor...You really work on 270 million dollar jets??? WOW!!!! Do they let you check the tire pressure and everything?? Was the ABEC rating class one of the first things they taught you? I happened to be able to hold the tach while one of your "super-engines" was running, does that qualify me as a superhero too? Pretty unimpressive performance, and honestly if my name and rep were on the line I would have sent out something that was a bit cleaner and showed a bit more pride. My 25 years of running these models has just been on a amatuer level, The only thing you have proven to me is that either you or your "engine guy" owns a dremel. and that you can copy, paste, and regurgitate what you googled for. On the other hand a few others on this site have and DO on a regular basis show that they can "walk the walk" I look back just a year or so ago and it seems like everything was "I dunno, my engine guy did it" and all the sudden as of late you seem to have mastered everything all of the sudden?? The only thing I seem to agree with you on in this thread is that the OP needs to line out what the rules are and arent at his races before trying to make the engine perform exactly what will be fast enough without being too fast to be "legal".
Posted on: 7/30/2012 6:35 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11175255

RE: First sheet winger.... PROJECT ACE-HEAVEN
Thanks Tim. Well, I had a little "Meltdown" finishing this plane....Literally[:D] I forgot that last time I did a fuselage top like this I painted it with elmers wood glue before I layed on polyester resin. Forgetting to do that this time I had to watch the fuse plug turn to pink bubbles before my eyes[&o] BUT in standing with my "design on the fly" techniques" I pressed on! I'm finishing up details and am excited to try it. I was gonna steal the canopy from my skydrill kit, but I think I'll hit hub hobby and get the 6" SIG as I think the 5" looks a bit small. I need to line/smooth the bladder compartment also as it kind of got forgotten lol. I'm also deciding on whether to just deflect the exhaust or make a mini-pipe? I'm trying a new spray clear laquer that has tested well so far with raw fuel, but I'm gonna give the plane a week or so to harden well and maybe wax it or something before I soak it with fuel...But I like using this acrylic art paint...it actually sands great and there is a ton of nice colors for .69cents a bottle that spray through the airbrush and clean up easy. I used this paint/clear combo on a lot of glow helis but they have a lot less fuel exposure than 1/2a I'm anxious to break out a KIT and build something when this is done. I really haven't "matured" as a scratch builder yet. I need to develop the draw it out and cut out parts dicipline , and even write out the steps I should follow. I try too much to just "Go for it!" I IS fun though! I'm feeling like this guy should fly pretty well. My next thought I keep having is how the skydrill will deal with my other Fora 1CC[:D] Seems doable to me? maybe on a 5.7x3? There is only one man around here who would know and I have a feeling he'd tell me to get off my butt and build it!! Todd
Posted on: 7/30/2012 12:04 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11174711

RE: OS Max 10 FSR Carb Needed
Can you show a picture of where you broke? You sure dont want to glue something back together with the potential to break again and let debris enter the engine. If its just the retaining bolts broken post a picture and someone likely can help you with a alternate carb retention method if you aren't wanting to buy the LA or TT carb. Don't step over a dollar to pick up a dime and end up with a destroyed engine.[:)] Todd
Posted on: 7/29/2012 1:38 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11173539

RE: A GLH for 2012
That thing is looking great! Very nice covering. Definitely on of the more difficult aspects for me but looks like you have it down. The wing looks even thinner now. Its gonna fly like a dream![8D] It looks like its staring out the window at the ray of light shining downs saying "When do I get to fly?, Cmon?" [:D] Todd
Posted on: 7/29/2012 10:02 AM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11173337

RE: First sheet winger.... PROJECT ACE-HEAVEN
Ok, theres been a few cut periods of indesicion and start over since the last post, But I'm filling cracks and getting ready to make the glass top. I took down the height of the fuse a fair amount and got the engine mounted a lot lower a suggested.(I'll pull the tape off next pic)[:D]I gave it a bit more fin as well. I'm trying to decide whether the top will come off as one piece or if the front partition will be seperately removeable. feels pretty good in my hands and I'm expecting this one to come out at around 16.5-17 oz hopefully? I've placed around weight inside and the grip for launch feels doable. Hopefully the excess thrust will help out![8D] Any suggestions? Todd
Posted on: 7/26/2012 3:22 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11170416

RE: Too long WOT?
pulling "unloaded externally" for a few seconds usually. At some point the power produced goes
Posted on: 7/23/2012 1:59 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11166171

RE: Shaft driven props
Orv! Thanks a ton for sharing that! Awesome work, it seems you have accomplished both of the ideas floating around in my head at once! This is exactly what I wanted to see. So do you think the airflow from flight will help cool it any ?(I'm assuming it has only been benchrun?) Or a beer can "Shroud"? I'm definitely interested in following this project. You don't happen to have any video runs do you? AWESOME MODELING!!! Todd
Posted on: 7/21/2012 8:29 AM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11162959

RE: TT Pro .46 Muffler
So, often these mufflers have a nut on the back that is just a lock, but also the back half of the muffler is threaded. So the nut on the rear needs to be loosened first(use the screw head in the front to hold the screw...dont try to unscrew from the front. After the nut is loose on the rear, loosen the screw from the front while holding the rear muffler half and it should work. If its stuck from oil you are right on with a bit of heat or light oil(or both) to loosen the gunk. sometimes I tap the screwhead on the front to seperate the halves. Hope this makes sense?
Posted on: 7/18/2012 4:46 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum "Thunder Tiger Engine Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11160427

RE: Giant Scale crop dusters?
I havent seen any fogging in Minnesota. What I have seen is a few Bell 47's (turbine conversions) that fly low over marshes and small ponds early in the season. I read in the paper that they drop corn which has a bacteria growing in it that eats the same microorganisms that the mosquito larve eat...effectively startving the larve to death before "Born". As a kid we also used that fogger oil (currently about $12/half gallon at hardware stores) we had a device that dropped a drip on the muffler of the lawnmower every few seconds as you mowed and did quite a good job, although neither that or the "Fogger trucks" fixed the issue long term. Invertmast, maybe I should have used the tongue-in-cheek smiley when talking about playing in the fog. I would never reccomend someone TRY to maximize their exposure to a insecticide. Although my web searches do say most of these fog oils(especially the ones available to the common man, I'm sure what you spray is likely to be very different) are pyrethrin(flower oil) based or are considered largely safe for humans to be in close proximity to. The "Wrong Dosage" of almost ANYTHING can kill you. The labels on the oils at the hardware store were not very alarmist. I think I have "scraped by" as far as permanent physiological damage from the fog I was exposed to as a kid, But you may be on to something....I have noticed my rolls have never been very axial??[8D] Todd
Posted on: 7/18/2012 1:01 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11160173

RE: Giant Scale crop dusters?
Kinda funny Jester...I grew up in Houston,Tx and lived there the first 35 years of my life. When I found out I was moving to Minnesota I knew there would be a lot of miseries, But I said "Hey, at least I'll be getting away from all the bugs! No way they can make it through the winter there eh?!"[X(] Well, There are no "Pine Bark Beetles"(the giant flying cockroaches that go THWOP! when they land on the wall....the German ones are actually the tiny ones) Duuuummb me....The Mosquitos are 10 times worse here!!!....10,000 lakes equals 10,000 giant mosquito nests! I guess the cold doesn't affect the eggs. As far as I know I got away from fire ants and water moccasins though. The thought that mosquitos are worse in the south holds about as much water as the people here that say in the summer "Its not the heat that kills me!!, Its all the humidity. ...Its not humid like this in Houston!!"[:D] Todd[:D]
Posted on: 7/17/2012 6:51 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11159331

RE: Giant Scale crop dusters?
A idea popped into my head the other day that is much cooler IMHO: after getting eaten alive by skeeters at the field I was wondering if mosquito fogger oil could be successfully run through a rc smoke pump and distributed from the wings of a AC model? Flying a few passes the perimeter of the field at low level once a hour or so is plenty doable and would look cool and hopefully serve a purpose. I know that fog won't hurt you because we used to play in it used to play in it used to play in it used to play in it used to huh where am i when the fogger truck came through the neighborhood when we were kids!
Posted on: 7/17/2012 4:03 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11159126

RE: Shaft driven props
If I do it I would end up with just a straight aluminum shaft with a dogbone on the engine end....and there would be no angle really anyway. Just a step on the prop end and a small thrust bearing to take the thrust load. I think for the 4 or 6 inches I'm thinking of(from nose to about wingspar on a .049-25 plane) it would be workable as far as balance...as RC helis run dogboned aluminum shafts at 10K for 2-3 feet with only 1 mid-support, and dremel flex drives seem to work OK at 30k. I have the machines to manufacture most of this hardware so I really would'nt have to locate things or spend a ton of money. If I did a twin with tail rotor boxes I would just use the tail rotors for props, and have a servo to manipulate pitch. I definitely have a few projects in front of even making plans. I'm trying to finish my SWR tonight, So maybe by the time I'd be building one a few folks will have already done one, LOL Todd
Posted on: 7/14/2012 4:50 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11155402

RE: Shaft driven props
Yeah, the "flywheel effect" needed, even on a engine running WOT is one of my concerns. How far one could go with the drive pulley/starter cone maybe,fan could quickly approach being the weight penalty of the second engine with the drive system included. I think on the "Mid engine" setup you could get away without it if the prop shaft was rigid enough and there was no transfer or reduction gear. It would be great to see the article if you come across it. No hurry for sure as I'm just kinda pondering most of this. Thanks, Todd
Posted on: 7/14/2012 2:07 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11155211

RE: Shaft driven props
Most of this is thinking out loud like I said. The twin"otter" I had daydreamed about when I was young was a fire up/toss/ fly 1/2a type job so I figured the engine sticking out the top in the wind would keep it cool. I think I was going to build it right after my F4-U corsair Guillows/Cox model with throttle, flaps,retracts, tx-retractable canopy and firing bb-machine guns.[;)] I guess what re-sparked my imagination today was people talking about long nosed fighters like the F-4 in which case I was just assuming a engine 4" behind the prop would still get enough blast to cool it. Austin, The B-17 sounds neat....I'll have to look around and see if I can find that picture. ffkiwi, what would a simpler arraingement be if someone wanted to build say a .049 tractor long nose prop jet with a long slender nose? I'll reiterate ...I'm looking less for people to try to talk me out of what is likely a hair-brained plan(I realize it isnt normally done for a reason...I'm not currently planning a build on these ideas), and more just for conversation/curiousity on if anyone has seen or tried these setups and besides for what SEEMS like it would be a issue...What actually WERE the results and problems? I've just never seen mention of it, yet am sure mine isnt the first mind it has crossed.
Posted on: 7/14/2012 12:57 PM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11155140

RE: A GLH for 2012
Thanks Aspeed....Wow .008 is a small hole. maybe I'll just drill from the back with a .062 ish drill and then remove .001 or so at a time from the crankcase side till I just poke into the "V" of the drilled hole, then turn the rest out and thread. What are your thoughts on mounting the engine off this? Otherwise Its probably easier to use CP's method of filling the backplate with JB with a brass tube poked through and solder fill etc. I guess the Texas Timers mounts done the same way might get me close as well.
Posted on: 7/14/2012 10:45 AM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11155001

RE: Shaft driven props
I think a few of the pluses of these ideas if workable would be: For the twin....one engine, one fuel tank and throttle servo, and all the plumbing/linkages for throttle. No "one engine out" scenarios. mass of weight in center of plane. For the "Mid-Engine" the main advantage would be being able to model long nosed models as a option besides building a pusher. Especially on making something with a long skinny nose like a F-5 or something. So we can satisfy your sureness of why I would want to do this[:D], what are the simpler and more reliable alternatives in these cases? And just in case its what you are thinking....I am not interested in electric solutions. A lot of the models I would consider this for are already ARFs in foam with EDF,etc but its just not cool enough for me, LOL[:D] Like I said...most of these ideas have been lingering in my head for 25 years back when electrics werent a option really and the availability and cost of engines was a different situation for a daydreaming kid, So I'm just trying to see if anyone else has thought about it. Again I'm interested in the simpler and more reliable alternatives that perhaps I hadn't thought of? please expand Todd
Posted on: 7/14/2012 10:29 AM by Author "Max_Power" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11154983