RE: Wing Rock In Harrier ??????? HELP
Too much elevator throw MIGHT be an issue as well as being slightly nose heavy. Bottom line is, set the CG as wind junkie explained and then play with elevator throw while you are flying and see if you can tame it. A very very light built plane helps too. The lighter the wing loading the less the tips stall in harrier. In the end, most guys get proficient enough that they are unconsciously countering wingrock and it "looks"like its not rocking, but really its just pilot experience stopping it with tiny proactive corrections.
Posted on: 3/26/2010 10:02 AM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9613463

RE: Anyone have any experience with Inspire set up?
pm me and I will send you the email of a good friend of mine that is flying a 60 size Inspire setup with a monster electric drive.
Posted on: 3/26/2010 9:56 AM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9613451

RE: Im back!
Well I spent the afternoon flyin my fancy foam Vrolet. I have to say this is by far the lightest flying and neutral flying foamy I have ever owned. It may be the most neutral plane I have ever flown, ever. Bar none.
Posted on: 3/22/2010 9:33 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9603766

Im back!
Hey everyone. I have been gone for about 18 months due to several things. Burn out, marriage problems, massive home remodeling and my 19 year old daughter blessing us with twin grand babies that live with me took me away from the hobby. But I am back now. For 3D, I am starting out with a 58" electric Extreme Flight Extra rigged out with their best setup and a Fancy Foam Vrolet indoor foamie. I also picked a small electric P40 and a sub mirco parkzone P-51 Bind-N-Fly just to give me some stuff to play with. Anyway, its been a while but for those of you who know me its good to be back!!
Posted on: 3/21/2010 10:54 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9601203

RE: Belly-In Hovering
I also look at the tail when I am hovering belly in. That is, I push the rudder stick in the direction that I want the tail to go when I am looking at the belly. When I am looking at the canopy I push the rudder stick in the direction that I want the nose to go. Not to beat a dead horse but I will affirm what has been said about stick time.... Hovering is not easy,,, it takes a LOT of practice to get good at it and the tough part is that it is easier as you get the plane closer to you but most people are afraid (for good reason) of getting a spinning prop too close...[8D] Lots of fuel and sim time and it will become second nature.
Posted on: 12/7/2008 11:38 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8223730

RE: A few minor problems with a new Revo
Well after a week I thought i would come back and give a little more update on how its going with the Revo. First I have learned a lot more in a week. If you remember I had adjusted the slipper clutch and was unsure of whether or not I had it adjusted correctly. Well today I took the car back in to Victory RC in Houston and let Russell have a look at the car and basically do a service check because the spur gear had stripped. I know, I know you say that I over tightened the slipper clutch, but he checked it and said it was actually adjusted perfectly. He suspected that maybe something got into the gear train and stripped the spur, but he did not suspect that it was too tight. He helped me replace the gear and reset it exactly like it was before. In the check we also found that the clutch shoes had already come apart. He realized this when pulled the engine to change the spur gear and the smaller gear hub would not spin freely,,, so we pulled it to find the clutch shoes in pieces. We replaced them with an aluminum upgrade set of shoes that really significantly improved low end response. All in all it was a very educational visit.. The only problem I seem to have left at this point is getting the engine adjusted so that it does not cut out when you let off the throttle from a high speed pass. It also occasionally (about 30% of the time) hesitates or bogs when you get into the throttle from a stop like its loading up. Not every time, maybe 3 out of 10 times. I cant tell if its lean or rich on the low end, adjusting the needle 1/8-3/16 turn either way seems to have little to no effect. The air filter is clean and the engine runs great as long as you are in the throttle and 70% of the time at low throttle, any ideas?
Posted on: 10/6/2008 9:23 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Traxxas Monster Truck forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8025046

RE: A few minor problems with a new Revo
Today I put about 3 more tanks through it and I did have to epoxy in both ball connectors on the ends of one pushrod where it pulled out and one end on the other sides push rod. I also installed the long travel rocker and that worked out fine, I like the stiffer springs. Funny thing about the slipper clutch which I did not know existed until today. This afternoon the engine started just screaming up on RPM's as soon as I touched the throttle but would not accelerate very well at all,,,, much worse than before, so I read up in the book and discovered the "slipper clutch". I made about 1/4 turn (1/8 to get it back to original, another 1/8 to see if it would be a little more responsive out of the hole) adjustment to the slipper clutch adjustment nut and the drivetrain is engaging correctly again and the transmission is shifting nicely. Furthermore the thing has a whole lot more low end response and will really REALLY tear up the dirt. It wont quite wheelie on a hard surface but in the grass it will now wheelie pretty easily if you hit it right. Do my setup adjustments sound ok? I want to get it setup optimally, but I dont want to tear anything up. Boy there sure are a lot of things to "adjust" on this truck. Is it possible to ever get to the point that you just crank it up and go without continually having to deal with all the little nit picky maintenance items? I have not had this much fun in a while, [8D]
Posted on: 9/30/2008 6:33 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Traxxas Monster Truck forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8006429

A few minor problems with a new Revo
Hey guys, I have been an active member with RCU and work in the airplanes forums but I just got my first RC Truck, a Traxxas Revo. I have had it for just a few days and I have had a couple of issues that I want to ask about. First issue is that the wheel nut on one of the wheels came off within a few minutes of the first run even though I checked them all for tight before I fired the truck up the first time. Fortunately I was able to find it and re install it. Do you guys use loctite or anything on these? I thought about using blue loctite. Second is that both the left and right rear push rods have already pulled out on the wheel end. It seems like the ball connectors might be just slightly loose for the size of the pushrod. I seemed to have solved the problem by epoxying the pushrod to the ball connector on the wheel end just to get it going again. I know that I cannot adjust it with the threads glued into the ball connector, but it is working perfectly for now and it got me back up and running until replacements come in. Is this something that is warrantyable or will I just have to suck it up and buy the parts? Finally, and this is just curiosity not a big deal... Will the Revo as it comes out of the box wheelie with the 3.3 engine and stock transmission? I am pretty good at tuning engine and the engine seems to be really running great but it wont wheelie at all on any sort of flat surface. Any tips or suggestions?
Posted on: 9/30/2008 1:55 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Traxxas Monster Truck forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8005530

RE: Unfortunate RCU incident...PLEASE READ!!
Guys I am just a regular member turned moderator, and no one either for RCU or the pattern community. I just wanted to let you guys know that I cleaned up a few posts just to get rid of some comments that were too much, nothing more than shots over the bow or just heresay by folks that are not directly related to the issue. Several of the affected parties including Mike, Chip and Troy have already said their peace and most of the information that [b]needed[/b] to be said has been said. Everyone else, don't pile on Troy here, and I would suggest that only those that were directly effected either way comment period. It takes a real man to openly admit his mistakes in front of pretty much every pattern peer that he has which is what Troy immediately did, and that commands at least some respect. Just let the facts come out,, and the senior mods I am certain are also going to be closely monitoring this threads progress. Keep it constructive. Mike
Posted on: 8/22/2008 5:07 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7874674

RE: Ray Rhodes Memorial Pattern Contest Nedeland Contest 21/22 june
last ones for now
Posted on: 6/23/2008 4:30 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7652157

RE: Ray Rhodes Memorial Pattern Contest Nedeland Contest 21/22 june
more
Posted on: 6/23/2008 4:27 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7652151

RE: Ray Rhodes Memorial Pattern Contest Nedeland Contest 21/22 june
A few pics from the contest
Posted on: 6/23/2008 4:21 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7652132

RE: RCU Build/Review: AW 50CC Pitts Python
Smaller pitts or the stock DA muffler, no Spinner, 2 lithium Ion packs (1 ignition, 1 main power) would get you well under 19 I believe. This plane flies well at 19+ though so I would not get too hung up on the weight. Would I like it to weigh 18? sure! But it does not and it still flies great. The fuselage is comparable in weight to the weight of the other QB planes but the second wing and added servos just push the weight up.
Posted on: 4/28/2008 6:48 AM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7429364

RE: RCU Build/Review: AW 50CC Pitts Python
The A123 packs weighs 6.8 ounces. Remove 1 of the 2 A123 packs and fly with 1 A123 pack and 1 2400mah Lion pack on th ignition and the plane weighs just a couple of tenths under 19 pounds to 19 pounds as the scale bouces.
Posted on: 4/27/2008 10:25 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7428373

RE: RCU Build/Review: AW 50CC Pitts Python
I have some video but nothing that I care to share, Just the first 4 or 5 flights, none of which I was satisfied with the way the plane flew. Not because of the plane, the setup just needs a little adjustment to satify my style.. I have been getting the plane trimmed out and trying to get the throws set where I want them. Once I do I will should have about 5 minutes of video to share. Hopefully I will get that done this weekend and complete the formal review for publishing.
Posted on: 4/27/2008 8:36 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7427828

RE: RCU Build/Review: AW 50CC Pitts Python
Here is the Duralite stuff. As you can see I started out with 2 A123 packs but since the packs are about 6 ounces each and the plane came out over 19 pounds with 2 packs, I removed one to get it back down to just under 19 pounds. On the ignition I am using a Duralite digiswitch. Its a neat little switch with a built in regulator, just plug it in and go. The A123 packs perform beautifully. They are really cool stuff from a basic users point of view. In the circuitry is built in a cutoff that will not allow the pack to overcharge so you can charge these packs on a standard 2 cell 7.4V Duralite Lithium charger or you can charge them on a Triton or whatever without having to worry about overcharging. I only have a fewflights on them so far but in combination with the Powerbox 40/16 Evolution they have worked well. Before you start with the overkill for a 50CC plane, yeah maybe. But the Powerbox has a nice included failsafe switch that protects you from switch failure and it takes the place of the regulators that would otherwise be required. From a weight point of view its pretty much a wash. The powerbox weighs about 4 ounces and 2 Fromeco Regs weigh about the same thing, maybe a little less. I have been using the Powerbox 40/16 for about 2-3 years now and I have yet to have a single problem in my planes with them. Here are a few pics of the setup
Posted on: 4/20/2008 11:18 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7398873

RE: RCU Build/Review: AW 50CC Pitts Python
I forgot, I took a few pics myself... Check em out....[8D]
Posted on: 4/20/2008 10:41 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7398728

RE: RCU Build/Review: AW 50CC Pitts Python
OK, I finally got the Duralite A123 packs in for this plane a couple of days ago and since have about 10 flights on the plane. Weight ready to fly...... 19 pounds. Yeah its a little heavier than advertised but it still flies very nicely. The plane really flies very well and its a ball to fly, the DA 50 is more than plenty of power for it even with the Vess 22B break in prop. The engine came to me from DA just sloppy rich so I had to lean out the high and low ends about 3/16" each to get the burbling to stop. Once I did it started turning about 6900 RPMs on the ground with the 22B and still runs very cool so I know it still rich. The jug temp on landing is only about 175 degree so I am satisfied with the performance thus far on lawnboy ashless oil. OK the not so good, really minor stuff but none the less I calls em like I sees em. The plane has a good bit of roll coupling so if you want nice straight knife edge you need to mix in aileron the opposite of rudder to stop it from rolling back upright. Its more noticeable on left rudder KE than right. The Rudder to elevator coupling is not too bad but its there. I need to mix in just a little up elevator on left and right knife edge. 3D. The plane spins incredibly. It does fantastic inverted and upright spins and the snaps are lightning fast and yet easy to keep online and stop where you want them. It hovers pretty easily and once I got a feel for the plane today I was hovering and even torque rolling a little with the tail just a couple of feet off the ground. The things I found that it did not like are walls, parachutes and that sort of stuff. It does them, but it will not pop into a wall sharply, it just sort of mushes into it and I cant get the nose straight up. It might be due to the weight, but I am not quite hitting the bevels on up elevator so possibly a little more throw will do it. Once in a harrier it harriers fine but it is a little wobbly initially. That may be because its still a little nose heavy and I may just need to dial up all the throw on the elevators. I have about 10 flights on it so far, I already corrected the roll coupling, all I need to do it mix out the pitch coupling and dial in more throw and we will see what that does. I must say that it is so doggone pretty its just ridiculous. This is one of the prettiest planes I have ever seen in flight. I am not just saying that, its the truth. Its a very sexy little 50CC plane. I spent a few flights just barnstorming with it this afternoon at full throttle and it was really impressive. I will have some pics tomorrow, I forgot my flash drive so I had to get it to my photographer today so I can get all the pics and start editing.
Posted on: 4/20/2008 10:12 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7398587

RE: Aero Works Python actual weight????
Mine is exactly 19 pounds with a DA50 and a Jtec large muffler, with a Lithium Ion ignition and an A123 main power pack. go back to the standard pitts muffler and the weight drops to somewhere around 18 10ounces. I maidened mine today and I would say that at 19 pounds it flew fine. It would harrier and hover and all that, but the motor needs some breaking in. The DA50 is brand spanking new so its not turning up about about 6700 with a Vess 22B. I dont care how much it weighs as long as it flies well. I would say to hit 18 pounds you would need to go with 2 Lithium Ion packs total on the lightest regs you can find. Simple HD switches, Lightened backplate on the spinner. This is the honest truth. This may be the best looking airplane I have ever owned. It is absolutely beautiful in the air.
Posted on: 4/19/2008 9:13 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7394398

RE: Need a regulator ????
There are plenty of places to pickup regulators www.fromeco.org www.duralitebatteries.com are my two favorite places. It does not need to be exactly 6V output, anything over 5 volts should be plenty.
Posted on: 4/19/2008 8:57 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7394343

RE: DA 100 specs
DA recommended a Vess 26B for break in when I got my last new DA fall of last year.
Posted on: 4/5/2008 12:42 AM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7335406

RE: DA 100 specs
Roughly with a 26x10 prop it will idle at about 1700 RPMS give or take, and it should max out at 6500-6700 RPMs. That is just based on my personal experience with the engine here at sea level. It will idle lower than that, but I see no need to tempt fate in the air. Wood props are fine. If its well broken in it will turn a 27x10 or 28x10. If its new try a 26x10.
Posted on: 4/4/2008 7:59 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7334152

RE: 3d flying video and set ups???
At the top of the regular 3D forum there is a thread titled "how to do 3D" that we made a while back that has a bunch of video clips of maneuvers that I did in a flight simulator. The setup depends on the plane. For the most part you want as much elevator throw as you can get and just about always you will want as much rudder as you can get. I would say that you want at least 45-60 degrees of elevator throw. The ailerons depend on the plane, engine and prop since prop wash is so important in 3D. Most scale aerobatic planes require about 40-45 degrees for most 3D maneuvers but 60 degrees is not uncommon. I have my highest rate for aileron set at about 60 degrees. That is enough aileron deflection to stop or even reverse a torque roll in a hover. However for rolling harriers and such I have the ailerons set at around 40 degrees, any faster and the roll rate can get really quick unless you are totally 100% relying on prop wash to make the ailerons effective at an extremely high angle of attack.
Posted on: 4/4/2008 7:58 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7334177

RE: GIANT SCALE BEGINNERS--TIPS OF THE WEEK
[quote]ORIGINAL: BCMIM I am finishing a GP Extra 300, it recommends using std servos. Two on each ail. one each on elev. and two on the rudd. Several club members have told me that std servos will not stand up and I should get medal gear hi torque servos. If I go with the medal gear servos do I still need two on each ail? I will be running a 70 cc twin cyl. Avio gas eng. The wild type flying this model is capable of is not my kind of flying, I just like the model and big airplanes so I will not be pushing it. [/quote] Well, you can get away with 1 servo on each aileron if you move the mounting point to the middle of the aileron. Do not try to do it by just leaving the outer servo off. That won't work very well, you just dont have enough support to have 1 servo off center and the aileron will flex. You will need to center the use a higher torque servo to do it. If its the 1.60 size you could get by with one servo like a Hitec 5945 if you move the mount to the middle. Setting up two aileron servos is not hard but you have to know what you are doing to get a bind free operation. It will boil down to adjusting the control horn height so that they comensate for the thinning cross section of the aileron out towards the tip. This means that the inner arm will be the same distance from the hinge point of the aileron, but will appear closer to the aileron because the aileron is a lot thicker at the inner control horn.
Posted on: 4/2/2008 6:01 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7323219

RE: RCU Build/Review: AW 50CC Pitts Python
OK I talked to Rocco at Aeroworks and he said that the tail wires are most definitely required. Without an airfoiled stab and vertical fin, they are required for structural support.
Posted on: 4/2/2008 3:22 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7322408

RE: cut off switch for gas engines
[quote]ORIGINAL: DMyer [quote]ORIGINAL: MikeEast Now, you can use a fiber optic switch to do the same thing, but it ties up a channel on your receiver and it has the exact same effect as a throttle cut. Its just adding yet another step that can be done just as well without it. I suppose the only thing the optical version protects you from that throttle cut cannot is throttle servo failure
Posted on: 4/2/2008 11:52 AM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7321587

RE: RCU Build/Review: AW 50CC Pitts Python
Actually, I think leaving the wires off might be a little risky. I will contact Rocco and ask him if they are form or function and get back with you. To me airfoiled stabs would most likely weigh just as much as the flat stabs with tailwires, so I cant see the point in leaving them off. It should be an even swap in weight and free insurance. I dont know on the pole barn comment if you are referring to the one piece wings, but if so I agree to some extent. I dont like having to store or haul 70" wings but in reality they dont take up any more space than the wings for my 35% stuff and its just that much less to assemble at the field.
Posted on: 4/2/2008 11:44 AM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7321499

RE: DX7 v JRx9303
I think there are a lot of people that still are under the impression that the issues that were reported early with the DX7 systems was DX7 system related. They still dont understand that the problem was not with the equipment, the problem was low voltage cutoff due to low batteries. I have talked with Horizon, and several of the power distribution system guys and they all seem to agree that you have to be sure that you do not hit that cutoff voltage. There are 2 PD systems companies that have clearly suggested that I not use 4.8V on JR, Spektrum or Futaba in demanding planes. It takes about 8 seconds for the system to reboot from an LV shutdown and that is too late. But this is true with ALL systems regradless of what freq band. They all have low voltage cutoffs. I think it just got blown out of proportion because it was a new system so the blame automatically fell in the wrong place. Again, Solution 1. If you are going to run 4.8V or any voltage but ESPECIALLY 4.8V with low capacity batteries be sure you understand the loads that you are inflicitng on the battery so that you can have a clear understanding of when its time to stop and recharge. Solution 2. If you are flying power hungry servos, just move up to a high capactiy and high output 5 cell NiMH or 2 cell Lithium or A123's or something that is not as prone to hit <4V under load as long as it still has a decent charge.
Posted on: 4/1/2008 12:30 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7316402

RE: DX7 v JRx9303
[quote]ORIGINAL: opjose [quote]ORIGINAL: MikeEast the problem was not with the recievers, the problem is using the wrong batteries for the application. This is true with any radio system. I would say that if you are performing aerobatics on a plane with several high output servos (100+ ounce rated output) then you might need to use a 6V setup and high capacity batteries especially
Posted on: 4/1/2008 12:07 PM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7316293

RE: DX7 v JRx9303
[quote]ORIGINAL: opjose [quote]ORIGINAL: Kavik Kang Does the JR not have the "battery issues" of the DX7 or are they in exactly the same boat on that issue. [/quote] I have a bunch of JR TX's 7 channel units on up. What "battery issues" are you referring to, as I've never had any... Though I always install higher capacity batteries on all of my TX's... The default batteries are good for over 2 1/2 hours. I often see 9 to 11 hours of flight time on my TX's with a full charge on the larger packs I use. [/quote] All you electrical engineer know-it- all techhies bear with me on this post , this is just a common mans explaination basis practical experience and a little study. Yep, the problem was not with the recievers, the problem is using the wrong batteries for the application. This is true with any radio system. I would say that if you are performing aerobatics on a plane with several high output servos (100+ ounce rated output) then you might need to use a 6V setup and high capacity batteries especially if you are not very aware of what to look for and when you are at "no go" voltage. The problem is that if the voltage gets too low you hit the reboot voltage of the receiver. This can happen on 72mhz or 2.4ghz. On most planes that relative beginners are using for aerobatics if you use a 2000mah 5 cell NiMH battery pack you should be fine as long as you keep it charged. The risk is letting the battery voltage drop too far on a 4.8V (or any battery) and hitting the shutoff voltage.
Posted on: 4/1/2008 10:17 AM by Author "MikeEast" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7315831