RE: OS Max 32 SX H problems
i don't really know what the problem is but i would try running the high speed needle in and out a little at a time and keep trying, the smoke indicates some combustion maybe just too rich or to lean
Posted on: 9/25/2009 9:32 PM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9124289

RE: Raptor - Tail too sensitive!
reduce your endpoints on the rudder channel
Posted on: 3/4/2008 2:09 PM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7173683

RE: Duncan Hutson SE5a
When you want to sell, drop me an email: mikeslaughter@cinci.rr.com I am collecting lots of kits that I want to build "someday" and that one would be a nice addition. Mike
Posted on: 10/19/2007 4:16 PM by Author "MikeS" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6512300

antique engines ID and value
Can anyone id and value these antique engines? Thet are part of an estate donated for a charity auction, and I did not put them up at the time of the auction because I thought they may bring in more for charity online. The OS K6 is a replica and is unmounted and never run. The rest look used and are in great shape with good compression. I edited to make the descriptions match the order the pics below came in, and added info received so far. 1. Forster 60 2. OS K6 replica new and never run 3. Engine labelled "Super Champion" about 60 sized? Atwood Champion 4. Two engines with a logo of a circle in a circle in a circle. O&R's a. First one is 60 sized. b. Second one is 23 sized. Thanks for the input so far.
Posted on: 10/19/2007 3:41 AM by Author "MikeS" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6506844

RE: Duncan Hutson SE5a
" a LOT of work YES! " I doth think thou hast defined scale aeromodeling.
Posted on: 10/18/2007 2:43 PM by Author "MikeS" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6507716

RE: Duncan Hutson SE5a
Proctor used to sell them, and they were as pricey as their museum scale kits. I looked at that SE5 very carefully and I have a number of about $600 in mind. Caution, my memory may be faulty and I am under-valuing this kit. It is museum scale and every comment I have ever seen on them was positive. Mike
Posted on: 10/18/2007 10:45 AM by Author "MikeS" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6506789

RE: Gyro sensitivity question
I have not had the problem with the bouncing at the end of a pirouette. However my understanding is that this is caused by the delay setting being wrong. You need to physically turn the delay adjuster on the gyro not in the transmitter. The delay function determines how hard the software tells the servo to stop the yaw motion. To much or to little will cause the bounce. The drift that you describe cannot be "trimmed out" in the radio. The trim on a 401 gyro always needs to be zero or center or no trim. When a 401 drifts all the things that Vince described can cause problems but my first thought is that you need to physically move the tail rotor push rod or move the tail servo. The gyro thinks that the tail blades are holding center, the blades however are not centered. They need to move ever so slightly in the direction needed to keep it from drifting. So lengthen or shorten the tail pushrod or slide the servo a little bit on the tail boom.
Posted on: 10/8/2007 10:05 PM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6466880

RE: Radius block/Slide block upgrade
No that is not what Barracuda is talking about. The radius block will spin around on the mainshaft and can be put anywhere. It has been about a year since I did mine so its a little fuzzy. The Hirobo manual tells you how to do this. If I remember right looking down from the top you line the flybar up with the tail boom then put the radius block in a specific orientation. Its not hard but if you get it wrong the heli will not go the direction you tell it to. Check your manual its pretty clear.
Posted on: 9/28/2007 12:42 PM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "Hirobo Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6424744

RE: Honest replies only!!!!!
Yes I taught myself. Would I do it over again. Definately not. I crashed a Hirobo Shuttle 7 times in about 3 months. Each crash averaged about $100.00. I became very discouraged and did not try to fly the Shuttle for almost 8 months, then I tried again. This time I actually got to burn through about 4 or 5 tanks of fuel before I wrecked it again. I had no idea what a throttle curve was, I had no idea what idle up meant, I let the smoke out of a $120.00 gyro, I had no idea how to set the blade tracking. If I would have had someone to at least tell me why the little pushy thing on the spinny thing needs to go to the right I could have saved several crashes and saved LOTS of aggravation. Yes its possible, no it wont be easy and no it wont be cheap. If you dont want to or cant find some help at least get a sim.
Posted on: 1/20/2007 9:00 PM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "Century - Predator, Hawk IV, Falcon, Raven"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5296921

RE: New shuttle plus
Couldnt resist showing off a little bit.
Posted on: 5/9/2006 9:31 PM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4260051

RE: New shuttle plus
I dont know if they sell this version in the part of the world that you live in but, MRC Altech has a complete setup, transmitter, heli, motor servos gyro already assembled and trimmed ready to fly out of the box. I have an older shuttle and have been very happy with it. The new one is much better. I think you would be very happy with it. It seems to be about as cheap as you can get price wise and still be a quality machine.
Posted on: 5/9/2006 9:25 PM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4260027

RE: my opinion/ experience on getting into helis
I went about the same route. Started with a Piccolo FP spent about $1000.00 on it to try and make it flyable. Even after that much money it was just barely hoverable. Definately would not recommend a Piccolo. Then I bought a used Shuttle 30 nitro. Quite a learning curve, after about $700.00 over the purchase price it flys ok. Next was a Trex. Now this one flew pretty good but I have over $1000.00 in it. My brother just bought the newest SE model. This flys really nice and is definatley a good machine. The SE is a good learner and I would recommend it to anyone starting out but it is not really cheap. I have just completed an Evo 50. One trim and break in flight so far due to weather. This is the most stable machine I have ever flown. Very confidence inspiring. But I have close to $2000.00 in it. The cheap electrics are appealing but if I had it to do over again I would not have done it the same way. Even during the expensive learning curve I would still be further ahead with the Evo.
Posted on: 3/27/2006 1:20 PM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4089260

RE: New Tuned pipe for Hyper
carlyle there is no 100% correct answer, they are both good, you will not be unhappy with either, I had to trim the canopy on my evo but that was no big deal. I dont know if the Hatori will clear or not. I just know that the CY needed some clearance. It would be nice if somebody had a mini dyno and would test both pipes on the same motor and then publish the torque and horsepower curves, that and maybe a graph showing at what rpms the engine is actually running at during high power maneuvers.
Posted on: 3/26/2006 10:42 AM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4084296

RE: engine starts in wrong direction sometimes
I have an old shuttle and it does the same thing. Mine has the belt start and sometimes when the motor is rolling it will start to fire sputter and then it kicks back. You dont know that it is running backwards because you release the tension on the belt. With a cone type or wand starter it is less prone to kick back becasue there is a more positive connection between the starter and the engine. I just hold the tension on the belt a little after I think the engine is running. It wont hurt anything to run backwards just kind of inconvenient.
Posted on: 3/26/2006 10:34 AM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4084274

RE: Hanger9 P-47 Thunderbolt 150 assembly notes.
Now I am getting frustrated. The JR retract servos this plane is designed around are not available ANYWHERE!!!! I've tried others and there is no room to drill new holes to mount the servos. How could they put this out with NO SERVOS in stock in the ENTIRE WESTERN Hemisphere. And no estimate of backorder. Anybody know if there is a brand of servos that use the same case as the JR?? Thanks. Hanger 9 ... you really screwed up this new airplane. You can not build it and get it ready to fly with the products at hand, it rerquires too many add-on electronics and the struts are of really low quality.
Posted on: 3/19/2006 6:16 PM by Author "MikeS" in the forum "User Product Reviews"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4054965

RE: couple of shots of our new helis
This is our newest heli pilot, Bryce. Born today 3/16/2006 at 2:45pm I am a Grandpa again. I'm really not that old am I!!???
Posted on: 3/16/2006 10:11 PM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4044248

RE: couple of shots of our new helis
Hey Jim do you think I could get away flying the evo at one of the indoor places?
Posted on: 3/16/2006 8:12 PM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4043683

RE: starters
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL370&P=ML I have used this battery to start countless planes for over 4 years. The biggest engine I have is a Moki 1.8, I use a bigger starter but the battery is strong enough.
Posted on: 3/16/2006 8:09 PM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4043672

RE: Hanger9 P-47 Thunderbolt 150 assembly notes.
I did not know about the 6v problem, and I have installed a 6v system already. I went and got the EDR-111 bus just for that purpose. Horizon never called me back so I called again and they gave me the big shrug. They do not know when they will have struts available nor do they now when they will have another arf to rob for its strut. Barking, is your bad one the left strut? Mine's the left and from what you say, the struts may not be fixable with Hanger Nine products.
Posted on: 3/16/2006 1:11 PM by Author "MikeS" in the forum "User Product Reviews"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4042065

RE: starters
I had a similar one to the heli max for a nitro truck. It would roll the motor ok but burned out after about twenty starts. If your engine does not start right away I dont think this is the starter for you. I have the Tower Hobbies one listed at this link. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL396&P=ML It starts my hyper 50 easily and does not over heat if it is being fussy
Posted on: 3/16/2006 12:12 AM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4040392

couple of shots of our new helis
My brothers and I are all into helis, we have several and these are the newest ones. Mine is an Evo 50, next is a Trex450X, then a new Trex450X SE. The SE is SUPREMELY worth the money. The 450X flys well but the SE is miles ahead, much more stable and predictable. This is the first flight on the Evo. Still working on the set up. My yard is not big enough to do anything but hover but it is thrilling just the same to fly something new.
Posted on: 3/15/2006 10:03 PM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4039767

RE: Hanger9 P-47 Thunderbolt 150 assembly notes.
The flap hinge points are on the lower edge of the flap and the lower edge of the wing. The hinges are installed in a vee, almost closed and the hinge is in the under wing airstream. This makes them lower down and out away from the wing. There's no way to get them reversed or upside down because of the covering and shape. You are right, my peeves are not anything that would keep me from buying the plane. Like I said, fit and finish is excellent - best I've seen in an arf. Buy it, but check your retracts before you leave the store. Mike
Posted on: 3/14/2006 6:45 PM by Author "MikeS" in the forum "User Product Reviews"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4034566

Hanger9 P-47 Thunderbolt 150 assembly notes.
I got my Giant Scale P-47 Last Thursday and am as far as I can go at the time being, so I thought I'd post a few quirks and problems. I have 5 peeves and only one real problem, but thought it would good to post my probs, maybe someone will have a solution I have not thought of. General - The fit and finish of the airplane is superb. It is designed very light, with lots of attention to detail and good thought into how to equip it with standard high-torque servos throughout. Problems - Only one and that is a material problem. The retract mechanism is oleo strut ready, meaning you don't use music wire into the strut and retract. The size control of the struts and the drilled holes in the mechanism are not very precise. One strut is so tight it will barely allow itself to be forced into the hole, the other so loose that the the retract can't be tightened enough to hold it in place. The result, a retract that is not usable. It seems to me that the struts are slightly different, and onme is too small. I called Horizon Hobbby, and they do not have the struts in stock, so I may have to wait until they are available before my airplane is redy to fly. A word on the retracts. The instructions say it is designed around a low-profile retract servo and recommends the JRPS791. I had Hitec 77's on hand, but they won't fit so I had to order the JR servo. Horizon only had one in stock between their Midwest and California facilities, so that is on backorder, too. Another delay. Here are my peeves. None of these are problems, just my preferences. 1. Pushrods are 4-40 metal rods in plastic tubes. The tubes are already glued in the fuselage. I prefer carbon fiber pushrods, but it would take extensive modifications to use anything other than the metal rods. 2. The plastic tubes only allow one location for the servos in the fuse. While there is lots of room, the servos are on rails with pre-drilled holes in locations where the plastic guide tubes come out. The problem? The elevators use one servo per side and both guide tube runs are on the outside of the fuse, on opposite sides. You need either an extra receiver slot, a JR Matchbox, or a a reversing y harness to get the servos to push'pull in the same directions. In fact, this occurs not only with the two elevator servos, but the retract servos and the flap servos as well. You need either a 9-channel radio, three reversing harnesses or three matchboxes to get them to work correctly. That's too mych. It would take so little design to put route the elevator rod to the other side of one servo, or put the flap hatches slightly offset so the servos could be mounted so they operate alike to relieve this problem. 3. All the pushrods use, on one end, a 90 degree bend and plastic snap keepers. I can't seem to get a good enough bend that they work without forcing them onto the rods. That's especially so when you have to make a tight bend while the metal rod is rigidle locked into place inside the fuse. I replaced these with silver-soldered clevises. 4. The top hatch is huge, taking up the entire canopy and going all the way to the firewall. The problem - when the cowl is in place, the hatch can not be removed. I think I can change that with a little filing on the aluminum posts that secure the hatch onto the fuse. 5. The flaps use robart hinge point like hinges. One one flap, the holes were drilled so that the flap was 1/4 inch lower than the top surface of the wing. I saw this, but went ahead gluing thinking I could jam it in a little further and achieve a match. Wrong. I shouold have redrilled the hinge holes. 6. Using the Saito 180 four stroke, the throttle arm is right up against the firewall and the pushrod is very tight. This causes binding, making the throttle operation very hard. I think a cable will do better than the pushrod provided. 7. All of the control horn installations have wood screws screwed into hardwood, except the elevator horns, which screw into balsa, using #2 by 1/2 inch wood screws. The instructions have you put thin CA in the screw holes. I would have preferred holes that go all the way through and are captured by a plate on the opposite side, but with thick wood, the standard three-hole control horn is hard to install. I did it their way to see if it works, and I will go to a type of horn that goes thru the control surface if I find any sign that the wood screws are coming loose. I don't see it failing in mid air, but I am a little uncomfortable with it. All things considered, this is a very good airplane that is well designed and supplied with lots of hardware that should work fine. Once I get the new struts, I will let you know how it flies, but at a calculated 31 ounces per square foot wing loading, it should fly really nice. Oh yeah, ever have screws and other things left over? There are two four inch long metal bolts with 1/2 inch 4-40 (i think) threads on one end and 1/2 inch wide knurled knobs on the other. They do not show up anywhere in the instructions. Anyone know wjat they are for?? Mike
Posted on: 3/14/2006 3:03 PM by Author "MikeS" in the forum "User Product Reviews"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4033706

RE: pcm or fm---whats the difference??
evan, it is true, they are different types of radio waves. The pcm while not infallible is much more discerning and will reject more bad signals than the non pcm. I am not trying to start a flame war here but as other people have stated there is a difference. I have had problems that went away with the a pcm set up. I have at least 18 pcm rx in my fleet. I have a few non pcm's in the foamys but other than that they all get pcm. Its a free world and this is just my opinion, no offense meant to anyone.
Posted on: 1/15/2006 10:25 AM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3776977

RE: pcm or fm---whats the difference??
There seems to be a lot of disinformation about PCM. It is not mandatory to have the failsafe. It can be turned off like any other feature in the radio programming. With the failsafe off you can see glitches the same a non PCM. The advantage to PCM is the signal is much less prone to interference. The signal sent from the TX is encoded differently than non PCM. The rx is more selective and rejects more bad signals than a normal signal. PCM stands for pulse code modulation, FM stands for frequency modulation, AM stands for amplitude modulation. The PCM signal is more like a square wave than a non PCM signal and the rx can recognize this signal better while rejecting the enterference.
Posted on: 1/13/2006 1:19 PM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3769922

RE: upgrade to carbon??
The advantage to CF parts is that they are lighter and more rigid than the stock pieces. The disadvantage is they cost more and will not "give" in a crash. The stock plastic parts do absorb some of the impact in a crash while the CF because it is more rigid does not. Almost all servo manufacturers offer replacement gears.
Posted on: 1/13/2006 1:01 PM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3769866

RE: Big Bertha 69 Build
Please post pictures of your build up.
Posted on: 10/21/2005 9:02 AM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3475882

RE: Triton nihm charging capacity question
Duane you were exactly right. Number three, it was in fact set to 1000. I guess it helps to use the instructions for something other than bird cage liner. I put it to 2700, did a discharge/charge and it took 2450. Now I know the battery is full. Thanks for the input guys.
Posted on: 8/26/2005 12:45 PM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3301228

Triton nihm charging capacity question
I just bought a triton. When charging a 2700 mah rx pack how many milli amps will go in after a discharge cycle. I have gotten exactly 1000 three times in a row. Shouldnt it be more, especially after doing a discharge first?
Posted on: 8/24/2005 5:03 PM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3295015

RE: Old Shuttle Z
The motor spins counterclockwise looking down from the top. I put the belt out the right side of the heli and put the starter up through the bottom of the belt. I have to plug the wires from the starter into the battery box backwards to get it to spin the correct direction. Sometimes the belt does get all tangled up. I dont really like the belt idea but it works. If you spin the motor the wrong direction it will run but the blades wont spin because of the one way clutch.
Posted on: 6/22/2005 10:21 PM by Author "Mikes machines" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3099614