RE: Slow transition on DLE20
Know one asked the OP what kind of prop he's running. If it's an APC they weigh more then say a xoar. The lighter prop will spool up faster. No need to run rich, set the needles for good transition and the rich side of peak.
Posted on: 9/13/2012 9:44 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227971

RE: Clunk line for Gas engine
LOL Cuda I don't think Viton was invented yet when the OP asked the question. AHH got my chuckle for the evening. [:D] Viton is the way to go.[;)]
Posted on: 9/13/2012 9:39 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227967

RE: Dual Switch
ED Switches. [;)] http://www.electrodynam.com/rc/usw/index.shtml
Posted on: 9/13/2012 8:42 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227924

RE: Dual Batteries
Listen to Cuda, no fancy gizmo's required. [;)]
Posted on: 9/11/2012 9:31 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225752

RE: Omega 15% non 4 cycle blend
I've been running 10% Omega in all my glows, 2 and 4 stroke for years and have never had an issue, never replaced a bearing and have never used ARO. Just spin them really well at the days end with tank empty and glow attached.
Posted on: 9/7/2012 9:17 AM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220725

RE: Spektrum not working after bind
Get used to it David, when you have a problem with Spektrum it's always your fault and never the radio or link. Sorry guys but with Spektrum going from dsm to dsm2 to dsmx to dsmj then JR jumping ship and coming out with their own dmss I would say there must of been issues. Ya great service they replace everything but then tell you everything was fine in the first place, then why replace everything. Futaba is still using fasst and Hitec is still using FHSS, does anybody wonder why Spektrum are the only ones that have changed their protocol 4 times and that JR has gone to their own hopping system like Hitec and Futaba and jumped off the dsm? ship altogether. As to the comments about it being the same as all the others, please do some research.
Posted on: 9/7/2012 9:00 AM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220705

RE: CA Kicker ?
Most foam safe Ca's require kicker. I put mine in a small eyeglass spray bottle. On foam too much ca and kicker will melt the foam. Too little is better then too much on foam.
Posted on: 8/27/2012 2:01 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208052

RE: Servo Gears: Steel vs Titanium???
Steel gears will develop slop faster then ti. Ti is stronger so wears less.
Posted on: 8/26/2012 10:50 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11207216

RE: i am considering using a123 or life batteries for my rx and tx. I would like to get an idea what the
For Rx power I have been using these on planes with low power draw, latest is a 1/5 mustang. I have 12 in use and so far they have been good. Cheap enough so dual packs can be used for piece of mind with a $8 battery. They have been coming with a futaba/Jr connector for power discharge. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14077__ZIPPY_Flightmax_2500mAh_6_6V_5C_LiFePo4_Receiver_Pack.html For my 3D high C drain stuff I use A123's from Hangtimes. You can order them with the 20g 3 wire universal for charging thru the switch. To charge thru the switch on the HK packs I cut the balance plug off and shrink wrap the red and black wires and then take the white wire and add a futaba end to it and install it into the futaba connector power supply. Then you can balance charge thru the switch.
Posted on: 8/26/2012 8:56 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11207133

RE: LIFE batteries
[i]Do life batteries require a low voltage cuttoff like a LIPO.[/i] Yes they do. If you take the HK life battery's down too low they will puff. I do find because they don't have the C rating of A123 lifepo4 cells you have to take them down to 2 volts per cell to get the rating out of them when discharging with out hurting them. My A123 cells stay at 2.5 volts or above. HK life packs work great as Rx power but for motor applications I would stay with lipo. I have 12 of the hk lifepo4 packs in use, 2 going on the 3rd year and all still work and charge fine for Rx power.
Posted on: 8/26/2012 8:40 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11207121

RE: LiPo Batteries
How many ma/h have you put back in? Never want to put back in more then 80% of rated capacity. If you do then your using them for to long.
Posted on: 8/4/2012 3:31 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11180971

RE: NimH Battery Questions
Welcome to the world of Nimh battery's, at least my world and also looks to be your world.[:)] My last two nimh I bought were 2000 ma/h hydromax batterys. Upon arriving home they cycled out at around 1800 ma/h and after one year were down to 1200 ma/h. By year three they were less then 800 ma/h. I've never had a nimh last more then 2 years. I will say they were AA size and I also used a C cell 4200 ma/h pack that actually cycled when new at 4200ma/h and now 3 years later cycles at 3900 ma/h. For that reason I have now gone A123 and in the last bit HK LifePO4. I have found the worst thing you can do to a nimh is overcharge it. Leaving it on a wall charger for longer then necessary really takes the life out of them. I have had the best longevity out of them by only using a peak detection charger and charging at a high enough charge rate so the charger recognizes full charge and stops charging. For 4000 ma/h pack I would charge at 800 ma/h on my peak charger. If they are warm to the touch take them off the charger, as soon as they start to get warm they need to come off charge and I feel that's when they start to get hurt. Not sure what you are using your battery's in but I can imagine a 4000 ma/h 6 cell pack must be good coin. You could look at Lipo batterys in a 2 cell format which would be 8.4 fully charged or even life 3 cell at 9.9 volts. Your 6 cell nimh should peak out at around 1.5 volts per cell or 9 volts fully charged. The life might be a little too much but because we don't know your application we can only speculate on what battery would be best for you. Suffice to say you have more choices then just the nimh pack so before you buy more do some research and find it if another chemistry would work as good or better but be a little less expensive. Let us know your specifics of your application?
Posted on: 8/4/2012 9:46 AM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11180717

RE: DLE 55 Crank Broke in Flight
Do what I did and go buy another 55. There great motors and with the plane set up for that engine the install is a piece of cake. A couple hours instead of months and your back in the air. I put my spare 55 in a TF P51 and it flies great!!!!
Posted on: 7/30/2012 8:44 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11175422

RE: please dont hate me, i know this question have been asked before,but i need specific answer.
Synthetic ATF.
Posted on: 7/30/2012 8:34 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11175412

RE: TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly (1ST MISHAP!!!)
Weight is the enemy. 25 lbs sounds about right for a glassed bird. Mine is 19 lbs 15 oz. Flies better then all the others because it is light. Does enormous loops just like the real ones and almost stops in flight to land. No elevator at all with flaps down for me. The DLE 55 with a xoar 21x10 pulls it unlimited straight up. I'll live with the covering with how well it flies. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oAvSLOlIkG8&list=UUSeX7ol_mWbPk4_hkTQ-OqQ&index=2&feature=plcp
Posted on: 7/30/2012 7:19 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11175316

RE: NEW DLE30!
Holy molly that took me a long time to read but was well worth it. I can't tell you how many times I have been at party's and the topic of Turkey oil comes up. Now I'll sound like a pro. [;)]
Posted on: 7/17/2012 6:03 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11159288

RE: Would you rebuild it or lay it to rest
Hey Mike. What ever you do don't listen to the idiot telling you to sell all your planes and buy a trainer. Mr. joined 5 months ago and has 15 posts and has never made a mistake. I read what you wrote and understood all of it with out needing to subject you to the witness stand. I found the worst thing you can do is over charge a nimh pack. They really don't like it. I actual use them in my radio only ( not ready for lipo in my TX) because I run the envelops and it works fine in my TX. But I only use my peak charger to charge it and don't put them on extended wall chargers. Somebody wrote that your DX8 in nimh charging mode puts out 200 ma/h and does not shut off. Unless your radio was completely dead the night before then it probably got overcharged and it will put enough stress on a cell to fry it. The good news is you have most likely found out what happened to the radio battery and to the plane. The plane did exactly what it should have done with a loss of signal, drop the rev's and drop the gear. When you first turn on the plane not having the gear down for failsafe will trigger it to try to go up and then back down. Not good for retracts. So the issue with the Stang was not your ability to fly. Mark it as a lesson learned and get yourself a new Stang. Here's mine with the DLE55 and J-tech wrap around. 19 lbs 15 oz so she pulls like crazy and goes ballistic about 8 times per flight. [:D] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oAvSLOlIkG8&list=UUSeX7ol_mWbPk4_hkTQ-OqQ&index=2&feature=plcp
Posted on: 7/17/2012 1:48 AM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11158300

RE: Master K vs APC
For the performance enthusiast APC is the way to go for glow engines. If your just taking your plane to the field to put it together and wax it, sit in your rocker and enjoy the view, then be my guest and get the cheap prop. [:D] Oh and I for one like performance, that's why I fly Futaba!!!!!!! [:D][:D] Just having some fun!!!!! [;)]
Posted on: 7/17/2012 1:15 AM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11158290

RE: Can YOU tune a 4 stroke by ear?
If your comfortable tuning by ear then by all means. If your not sure then get a tach that works. No need to spend big money. I use the Hobbico tach and they all work well at my field. On the other hand we have a few glo-bees and they all jump around. One thing not mentioned is tune your saito with only 1/4 tank of fuel. I like to tune with the amount of fuel in my tank that I am landing with. That way you can get that extra 100 rpm's that some of us want. I richen my 2c by 200 rpm's and my saitos by 100 rpm's. By tuning with 1/4 tank you know that it will only get richer by adding fuel instead of guessing on how much you THINK it will lean when flying and compensating for it. I don't like guessing. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPT32&P=ML
Posted on: 7/17/2012 12:54 AM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11158285

RE: Master K vs APC
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XuHuCIbvjfg&feature=results_main&playnext=1&list=PL8D81B087CA0C5BD5 Not my test but same results as I have found. Keep the MA for stirring your paint.
Posted on: 7/15/2012 5:15 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11156505

RE: New DLE 35
Looks like there is a sleeve in the casting for a manual choke rod out the front. If that is the case then DLE sure was listening. [:D]
Posted on: 7/10/2012 11:50 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11150979

RE: DLE 55 won't run
[quote]ORIGINAL: 2wingedpilot   The one thing I did notice was,  the screen type gasket looked like it was upside down.  The way it was,  most of the passages were covered by the gasket.  The single ear on the screen type gasket was on the other corner from the ear on the other gasket.  When like this most of the passages where covered up by the gasket.  My question is :  Should the ears on the gaskets be lined up or on seperate corners.  [/quote] Don't worry about the ears, look at the inside where the two holes are on the carb. The gasket has 2 little tabs that should go over the two holes on the inside. They allow fuel through but do not let it back. Simple test, block the vent line and push on the tank, if fuel flows up the carb line and then back down to the tank when you stop pushing then that gasket is on the wrong way. You can also blow into the vent line but use a second line hooked to it so you don't swallow anything. Once the fuel is in the line to the engine it should not siphon back to the tank, if it does try a different position on the gasket. Again, the gasket has 2 tabs that line up with 2 small holes in the carb. The tabs should be the only things covering the 2 holes, if anything other then the 2 small tabs are ove rthe 2 holes then reposition the gasket so the gasket tabs are over the holes.
Posted on: 7/8/2012 10:43 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11148294

RE: muffler screws coming loose
The problem with Red loctite (most loctite) is it will not reach maximum strength on non-Ferris metals. Meaning to get the full 500 ft/lbs the red stuff is good for requires the metal be able to rust. Aluminum is not a metal that rusts so for the loctite to reach full strength then you need to use a Loctite primer. They do now have primer-less loctite but I have not tried it. With that said I clean all threads with acetone and use a good dose of 262 red loctite on the bolts. If muffler needs to come off the bolts break fairly easily with out the need for heat.
Posted on: 7/8/2012 10:06 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11148277

RE: What amps on Avg?
[/quote] The amount of comments on how great 30amps, 60amps etc on lipos/a123 would be irrelevant for fuel engines if this is all true. [b]It would mean people automatically assume bigger is better.[/b] I can't find any max amp draw tests with fuel engines on aircrafts. Everything I could find was for electrical engines. [/quote] Bingo. My opinion is the vendors selling powershare this and that are just looking to make a buck by hyping their product for these POWER hungry servo's we now apparently all use. My results are similar to barracuda's. How often when your flying are you stalling 5 servo's at once. Like I said in my previous post I fly my Yak for one hour and put back in 1800 ma/h. If my 5955's were so power hungry how come I only see on average 1.8 amps during my flight, and that's flying balls to the wall. If I was seeing 20 or 30 amps all the time during my flight I'd be putting a lot more back into my batteries, but I'm not. I have a low volt monitor and have never seen it come on showing less then 4.8 volts to my Rx, even when I sometimes forget to turn on my second switch and battery. Yup I've done all the crazy maneuvers with only 1 2300ma/h A123 turned on, and didn't notice a difference. My warbird with similar servo's uses 1/3 the amps my Yak does which is why I powered it with $9 battery's. Love my A123's from Hangtimes but $100 for a pair or $16 for a pair that does the same thing is a question i have trouble answering, especially with the HK battery's working so well. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14077 It comes with the Futaba/Jr power lead as well. I use the same pack for my DLE ignition with an inline diode. It has been a great combo.
Posted on: 7/8/2012 11:12 AM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11147595

RE: Hobbico Life Source Batteries
Check out the Lifepo4 prismatic packs at HK. I have 11 in use with the oldest going on 3 years and no issues. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__218__85__LiPo_LiFe_NiMH_Battery-LiFePo4.html http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17955__HobbyKing_1500mAH_LiFe_3S_9_9v_Transmitter_pack_.html $8.45 for a 2500 ma/h pack and it comes with a Futaba/Jr end on it. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14077__ZIPPY_Flightmax_2500mAh_6_6V_5C_LiFePo4_Receiver_Pack.html They don't push the current like true A123 cells but for Rx power they work great and for a great price.
Posted on: 7/8/2012 10:49 AM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11147571

RE: Why are we using NiMh...really?
[quote]ORIGINAL: TheWoodCrafter [quote]ORIGINAL: Red Scholefield [quote]ORIGINAL: TheWoodCrafter Why does anyone use NiXX type batteries today/ LiPo have so much more power/weight that they makes NiXX obsolete. [/quote] And if you forget an leave your transmitter on they are toast. They must be charged on a balancing charger to get maximum life. If Eneloops don't fill your Tx need you need another hobby. [/quote] The O.P. was talking about RX batteries, not TX batteries. Anything other than LiPo in the air is a complete waiste because of weight. Besides, a LiPo in your TX only needs charging about 4 time a year versus NiCads at about 2 per month if not weekly. [b]And if you are not old and forgetfull, you will turn your TX off everytime.[/b] [/quote] Easy for anyone to leave a TX on. For Rx power nothing beats life. Leave it fully charged for months and go fly. Charge in your plane with no worries about burning down your garage or house. No regulator needed. 1000+ charges. Flat discharge curve so your surfaces feel the same at the very end of your flight as the very beginning. No need to worry about storage charge or storing planes/batteries in a hot place and damaging your lipo. Leave a switch on by accident and just charge the battery, Lipo would be toast. I buy HK lifep04 1100 ma/h packs for $3.55 and 2500 ma/h packs for $8.45. 11 packs in use with the oldest going on 3 years and no issues yet. I balance charge thru my switch with a FMA Multi 4 and I like simple.
Posted on: 7/8/2012 10:39 AM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11147565

RE: Life battery packs
I have 250 charges on a pair of A123's in a EF yak. They still discharge around 2200 ma/h just like when they were new 4 years ago. I used to fly my Yak a lot more 4 years ago and at the rate I fly it now you could state the A123 batterys will last forever. LOL I made the switch to A123 because I was tired of buying Nimh every 2 years. When I was throwing around my 50cc EF Yak for all it was worth I put back in on average 1.8 amps per hour of flight. So my average draw was 1800 ma/h thru all 6 of my servo's. 5 5955 and 1 5645 on the high speed (7ms) setting. I also can see my PLV and have never seen below 4.8 volts. So one A123 2300 putting out 1C would be borderline. I've been running the HK life packs in my warbirds with a 5C discharge and have had no problems.
Posted on: 7/7/2012 12:15 AM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146150

RE: What amps on Avg?
I have a 50cc yak with 2, A123 2300ma/h battery's that does extreme 3D. On average I put back in about 1.8 amps for an hour of flight time, 900 ma/h per pack. So on average my 6 servo's are drawing 1800 ma/h during my flight, total. I have a TF giant P51 and I power it with 2 of these. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14077 I flew 4, 12 minute flights and put back in about 260 ma/h each pack. So an hour would be about 650 ma/h total, or .65 amps. So the 3D bird with the big services and big high torque servo's use 3 times the power of my warbird. I'm working on a 1/4 scale (25%) Mustang 112" with a ZDZ 90 and will use the same batterys as my 1/5 mustang. Not sure what 100cc 35% you are planning on.
Posted on: 7/6/2012 11:46 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146141

RE: Don Smith P51 mustang
Just bought one almost finished. Would love some pictures!!!! Thanks
Posted on: 5/26/2012 10:36 PM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11095855

RE: DLE 30 rear carb problems
I have a DLE 30 in a Stearman as well and it required a 1/8 turn richer on the low needle when the cowl went on. Not a problem with no idling before takeoff but noticed after idling at edge of runway one time waiting for someone to land it heated up a bit and began hesitating. The 1/8 turn did the trick.
Posted on: 4/23/2012 1:45 AM by Author "Mikecam" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11053138