RE: Are the new Thunder Tiger 40s actually 46s?
So far from what I see in this thread nobody has offered any evidence that there's been a mix-up at the manufacturer or distributor and .46 parts have been installed into .40 engines. This is possible but highly improbable since the crankcase, piston, cylinder, and crankshaft are all different between the .40 and .46 engines. The difference between the .40 and .46 engines that are related to displacement are the bores and strokes of the engines. The .40 has a 20.9mm bore and a 19.0mm stroke where the .46 has a 21.8mm bore and a 20.0mm stroke. We're talking around 1mm difference for each. Measuring stroke through the glow plug hole is highly inaccurate - there is no solid 'footing' for calipers to rest on with the fins on the top of the head and no way to tell if your calipers are perpindicular to the top of the piston. I tried this myself on an engine and got wildly different measurements after doing the same measurement three times. In addition to get a stroke measurement, you have to get a measurements at bottom dead center (BDC) and top dead center (TDC) and then subtract to get the stroke. With the head on, you cant really see where BDC and TDC is further adding to the inaccuracy of a stroke measurement. The only way to do this properly is to remove the cylinder head, which incidentally allows you to check the bore of the engine as well. I removed the head from a brand new Thunder Tiger Pro .40 and this is what I found: piston at BDC to top of cylinder sleeve: 23.08mm piston at TDC to top of cylinder sleeve: 4.22mm This gives a measured stroke of 18.86mm. Thunder Tiger says the stroke is 19.0mm. Measurement error and manufacturing tolerance would account for the difference between spec and my measurement easily. I measured the bore and got 20.89mm which is almost identical to the 20.9mm bore spec. This is all measured with $40-ish digital calipers. I wouldn't expect the accuracy to be great with these calipers (measurement error due to equipment) but this all jives pretty closely to the specs at http://www.ttamerica.com/engines/ttrg1140.htm Just for fun, I calculated displacement using my measurements. The formula for the volume of a cylinder is Pi * Radius squared * height. Converting my measurements to centimeters (to have a final answer in cc / cubic centimeters) and plugging in my measurements I get (3.14192654 * (2.089cm/2)^2 * 1.886cm=6.464195706), which after reasonable rounding is 6.46 cm^3 or 6.46cc, slightly lower than the 6.52cc spec and way lower than the .46 displacement of 7.47cc. I'm awful darn sure I have a .40 cubic inch displacement in hand. As far as I can tell, looking at the gap between the head and the crankcase only gives you an indication of the compression ratio of the engine. I can stack 20 head shims under the head and the bore / stroke of the engine will not change - the bore is still the same and the distance the piston travels up (or down) in one rotation of the crankshaft (which of course is the stroke) does not change either. These things are built into the engine and independent of cylinder head height. Perhaps Thunder Tiger is machining more material away under the cylinder head or is making them from a little shorter billet aluminum which would account for the differences that some people have noticed earlier in this thread. If someone has a new engine that really does have the wrong parts inside, then I'm sure that Hobby Services (the warranty center for Thunder Tiger) or the distributor will take care of you. Just truly be sure that you're sure that it really is a .46 in a .40 box. Looking at the box, head clearance, etc does not definitively determine that something is wrong. You have to look inside and check with a reasonably accurate set of calipers.
Posted on: 7/11/2012 2:28 PM by Author "Noff" in the forum "Club 40"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11151726

RE: Where is the Traxxas factory?
The factory is in Taichung. I don't know where exactly but I would guess that it's in the Industrial Park on the southwest side. I would not expect to see a Traxxas logo anywhere - I don't think Traxxas owns the factory.
Posted on: 1/26/2012 9:42 AM by Author "Noff" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10928847

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
The new top shaft is case hardened / black oxide coated. For those with Evaders with a considerable amount of run-time, don't overlook plastic fatigue in your transmission housings if you are shearing gears in your transmission. A stretched / fatigued gearbox can cause the gears to be slightly out of alignment causing the gears to strip.
Posted on: 11/14/2011 10:56 AM by Author "Noff" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10811700

RE: Vendetta spur gear pitch?
The Vendetta pinion / spur gear pitch is .6 module, which is otherwise known as 48 pitch metric. The Robinson Racing pinions, part numbers 1112 - 1124 will work fine. American standard 48 pitch, which is common, is close but there's clearly a mesh problem with them if used on the Vendettas.
Posted on: 9/12/2011 2:14 PM by Author "Noff" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10713273

RE: How are R/C car tires made?
RC tires are not injection molded. Simply put, the process is like this: The mold is sprayed with mold release. The rubber is weighed and placed into the press mold. The shape and size of the rubber doesn't matter as long as the piece or pieces will fit inside the mold - only the weight/volume just has to be correct. The molding machine slowly presses the mold halves together while heating the rubber (to liquify it) and it flows into the mold cavity. Then the heat is turned off and the rubber is cooled so it solidifies again. Cycle time is anywhere from 3-6 minutes depending on the size/volume of the tire. Typically a mold has several cavities in it so you can make several tires per cycle. Typical is 2-4 tires per cycle. Rubber molding is a stinky, dirty process and I suspect it's not terribly good for your health but I've never seen the machine operators wear breathing protection or protective outerwear ...in China at least, where most RC tires are made.
Posted on: 5/27/2011 9:30 AM by Author "Noff" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10543327

RE: DuraTrax DTXC 7402 trouble
Check your PMs, TA REXX.
Posted on: 2/10/2011 12:44 PM by Author "Noff" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10326463

RE: OFFICIAL Detta ST THREAD **********
The bearings supporting the outdrives on the diff are 8x12mm. I would just re-use the bearings that came with your kit as long as they are still in good shape.
Posted on: 4/30/2010 11:17 AM by Author "Noff" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9700144

RE: Deans Micro Plugs
Dean's Ultra Plugs are overkill for mini / micro. That being said, I do use the Ultra Plugs in minis because I don't have to make another stinkin' adapter for my charger to accommodate yet another plug. Plus, it's easiest to just stock one set of plugs on the workbench / field bag.
Posted on: 3/24/2010 5:17 PM by Author "Noff" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9608710

RE: XTM Rage and Mini Quake- nearly identical
It's a 6x10mm bearing. http://downloads.hobbico.com/evpl/dtx/dtxd11-exploded.pdf
Posted on: 3/24/2010 5:07 PM by Author "Noff" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9608694

RE: OFFICIAL Detta ST THREAD **********
Zinje, you have a PM.
Posted on: 10/26/2009 12:47 PM by Author "Noff" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9203229

RE: OFFICIAL Detta ST THREAD **********
Snipin', You've got a PM.
Posted on: 10/5/2009 12:25 PM by Author "Noff" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9148260

RE: Duratrax 380 motor speeds?
Rough RPM on a 6-cell battery 3307 mini-quake: 20,000 RPM 3310 vendetta bx 24,000 RPM 3309 VR-3 ultra 32,000 RPM Again, these are not very exact measurements. Hope this helps.
Posted on: 7/8/2009 6:21 PM by Author "Noff" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8916964

RE: Duratrax 380 motor speeds?
In order of lowest (unloaded) RPM to highest (unloaded) RPM: 3315 cliff-climber 5000 3317 cliff-climber 8500 3318 cliff-climber 11000 3307 mini-quake 3310 vendetta bx 3309 VR-3 ultra You can't quote speeds on a motor unless you take actual speed readings with the same chassis, motor, gearing, etc. on all the motors. Too much testing for very little benefit. From the above list, it's well known which one is faster.
Posted on: 7/7/2009 2:24 PM by Author "Noff" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8913740

RE: Vendetta rally body on vendetta buggy?
I just tried to dry fit a Rally body on one of the Vendetta buggies I have sitting around. I see a few problems with fit: * Wheel wells on the Rally body are too small for the buggy tires. You would have to butcher the rally body wheel wells to clear the tires. * The larger suspension travel of the buggy means that you will easily rub the tires on the body, interfering with proper suspension travel - Perhaps this could be mitigated by limiting travel with the buggy shocks, but it will need a LOT of limiters. Wheelbase and width matched up pretty closely. I assumed that you could rig up a body mounts that worked - usually a fairly easy task. Best solution is to buy a new Vendetta Rally when they start shipping at the end of the month. Then you have two vehicles for two different driving surfaces :-D
Posted on: 5/12/2009 11:12 AM by Author "Noff" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8762433

RE: Foam tires for Vendettas?
For the off-road Vendetta buggy and Vendetta ST, it's as simple as you describe: put on 1/10 touring foams. They come stock with 12mm hex For the Vendetta TC, Duratrax makes foam tires, 30, 35, 40, and 45 shore are listed. Part numbers DTXC7675, DTXC7676, DTXC7677, and DTXC7678.
Posted on: 2/2/2009 4:33 PM by Author "Noff" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8430775

RE: Shocks keep blowing out!!! arghh...
No doubt that these shocks are a bit difficult to build / re-build. One drop of oil is the difference between an underfilled shock and a way overfilled shock. Here's my technique to building the Vendetta shocks. 1) Fill the shock about 3/4 full and remove the air bubbles 2) Fill the shock the rest of the way. I typically overfill a little and let the oil spill out as I finish building 3) Move the shock shaft nearly all the way to the top and place the diaphragm on the top of the body. Pull the shock all the way down - This will add some "suction" to the diaphragm and it will hold in place much better when you are screwing on the shock cap. 4) Screw on the cap. Check for an overfilled condition by pushing the shock shaft all the way in and letting go. If the shock shaft rebounds about halfway to 3/4 of the way out, I say "good enough" If it rebounds all the way, the shock is overfilled. If you hear bubbles in the shock with minimal rebound, it's underfilled. 5) You can loosen the shock cap up to about a full turn out to help equalize the shocks from left to right. Use the cap as a tuning aid. Pro tip: Drill a small hole (1mm or so) in the side of the cap. This will help bleed off the pressure. IMO This makes it a LOT easier to build the Vendetta shocks. Now in your case, since you blew out the shock seal retaining cap, I strongly suggest that you replace the retaining caps at least. Once they are subject to that stretching, they are never the same. Personally, I would replace the entire shock body, seal retainer cap, and seals if that happened to me.
Posted on: 5/1/2008 11:09 AM by Author "Noff" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7443614

RE: got a vendetta buggy, glitching?
Try un-bundling the wires that are secured with the small tie-straps and re-routing them so they are not coiled so much.
Posted on: 12/3/2007 4:34 PM by Author "Noff" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6708985

RE: OFFICIAL VENDETTA THREAD!!!!!!!!!
The wheel screws that come with the CV shafts are 2.6mm x 10mm or 12mm flathead machine screws. Order DTXQ0231, which contains 5pcs of 2.6mm x 6, 8, 10, and 12mm screws. For $3.79 suggested retail, its a little cheaper than getting two screws with the far more expensive CV shafts [:D]
Posted on: 6/26/2007 11:56 AM by Author "Noff" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6036631

RE: OFFICIAL VENDETTA THREAD!!!!!!!!!
Yes, the Vendetta (buggy) rear shock shaft is the same shock shaft that is used in all 4 Vendetta ST shocks.
Posted on: 6/20/2007 5:34 PM by Author "Noff" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6013076

RE: Converting Vendetta to Vendetta ST
Here's what you need to convert the Vendetta buggy to the Vendetta ST. The only other thing you may need is a new pinion. The ST has a 13 tooth vs. the 16 tooth in the buggy. Qty Stock # Description 1 DTXC7461 DRIVE SHAFT VENDETTA ST (4) 1 DTXC8210 KNUCKLE ARM FR VENDETTA ST (2) 1 DTXC6264 PIVOT BALL STUD VEND ST (6) 1 DTXC9247 SHOCK TOWER FR AL VENDETTA ST 1 DTXC9248 SHOCK TOWER RE AL VENDETTA ST 2 DTXC9012 SHOCK SET COMPLETE VEND ST (2) 1 DTXC9344 UPPER ARM RE VENDETTA ST (2) 1 DTXC9543 UPPER ARM FR VENDETTA ST (2) 1 DTXC6432 BODY MOUNT SET VENDETTA ST 1 DTXC9585 SUSP ARM FRONT VENDETTA ST (2) 1 DTXC9586 SUSP ARM REAR VENDETTA ST (2) 1 DTXC9652 TIE ROD SET VENDETTA ST 2 DTXC9688 SQ BLOCK TIRE VENDETTA ST (2) 2 DTXC9849 DISH WHEEL WHT VENDETTA ST (2) 1 DTXC6576 BODY UNPAINTED & DECAL VEND ST It's going to be a little on the expensive side to get everything. It may be a better plan to just buy an ST kit.
Posted on: 4/19/2007 10:55 AM by Author "Noff" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5739400

RE: Vendetta slipping...
Did you check to see if the set screw on your pinion was loose? That's the first thing I thought of.
Posted on: 4/2/2007 10:43 AM by Author "Noff" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5653247

RE: Vendetta Damper Problems
Here's a copy of a post of mine from another forum when we were discussing filling the shocks on the Vendetta. [i]My technique: Fill the shocks most of the way with oil. Bleed out all of the air bubbles (move shaft up and down until the air bubbles come to the top). Move the piston to about halfway up the shock body and fill the rest of the way with oil. I typically overfill the oil just a little so when I put the diaphragm on the shock, the oil will get pushed out of the shock along with those few air bubbles that are usually at the top of the shock. Place the diaphragm on the shock body and then pull the shock shaft all the way down, moving the piston to the bottom of the shock. This will give some suction on the diaphragm and you'll see if its placed correctly before you put on the shock cap. Screw the shock cap onto the shock. I use the shock cap as a tuning aid. If the shock is just a little overfilled, you can loosen up to about a 1/4 of a turn without the oil leaking out from under the cap. This allows just a little more volume in the shock. [/i] One thing to keep in mind: These shocks are so tiny that one extra drop of oil can overfill them way too much. Much more precision is required to get the correct amount of oil in the shock than say, a 1/10 scale shock. Take your time and really make sure you dont have too much oil in the shock.
Posted on: 9/8/2006 11:53 AM by Author "Noff" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4724813