RE: The Official Traxxas Slash short-course race truck
[quote]ORIGINAL: hound54 Yes I washed it and rinsed it let it dry.....it was around 30 degrees when I painted it tough [/quote] It could be possible the paint had a bad reaction from being applied on the cold body at 30 degrees. So, how's it going lately, any progress?
Posted on: 3/15/2012 8:26 AM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11001012

RE: The Official Traxxas Slash short-course race truck
How 'bout prepping the body? Did you get to thoroughly wash the body with soap before painting it? Then of course, rinse well so no soap residue is left on it. And then, I believe you should spray rattle cans at 70F degrees ambient temperature or more. Last thing I can think of is to spray light even coats. Better to have 4 thin coats then 2 thick ones. If you want to remove that paint, use DOT3 brake fluid and let it sit, then wipe off. Continue until all paint is removed. I've heard you can use DOT4 also, but, also had conflicting stories that it melted the body in some cases. I hope some of this gives some clue as to why it flaked off so badly.
Posted on: 3/10/2012 1:04 PM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10994403

RE: The Official Traxxas 4wd Slash Thread...
A bad day at the track is better than a good day at the office. Sounds like you still had a productive practice.....Ironed out a lot.
Posted on: 2/7/2012 12:00 AM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10947598

RE: problems with site loading
I'll add to this for admin purposes. For a while now I've also noticed the very slow loading of the RCU forums. But, just recently I also see that the rest of the site other than the forums have been down with 500 server errors. I hope RCU can fix the problems soon. Thanks!
Posted on: 2/6/2012 9:07 AM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "Forum questions or problems"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10946402

RE: The Official Traxxas Slash short-course race truck
The one difference between the Pro and the standard is that the top plate is cut out on the Pro to lighten it. It's the same design otherwise from what I understand. You'l enjoy that chassis. Proline and JConcepts makes bodies that will resist that parachuting effect. If I'm not mistaken I'm running 30wt all around. But, that is not always the best set up. It was just convenient at the time.
Posted on: 1/23/2012 10:01 PM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10924428

RE: The Official Traxxas Slash short-course race truck
From a post I made on the previous page.... [quote]ORIGINAL: OddsNEnds I have the ThunderTech Racing Outlaw Pro Chassis.... Love it! Onroad and offroad (dirt, clay, prepped surface), no more rollovers.... Bashing in a grassy park is still a little touchy making turns and bicycling sometimes or rolling. But, it's way better than stock. This thing jumps real nice and tracks straight
Posted on: 1/23/2012 8:56 PM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10924341

RE: The Official Traxxas 4wd Slash Thread...
[quote]ORIGINAL: dchomie87 But 75 bucks for some axles the must be superb... [/quote] $60 at Tower Hobbies, ToadzRC has them for $58.... 4S lipo and a mamba monster 2200kv powerplant. Haven't had a single issue with them.
Posted on: 1/20/2012 11:21 PM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10919520

RE: The Official Traxxas Slash short-course race truck
About receiver box, I agree with terminator. I have the ThunderTech Racing Outlaw Pro Chassis.... Love it! Onroad and offroad (dirt, clay, prepped surface), no more rollovers.... Bashing in a grassy park is still a little touchy making turns and bicycling sometimes or rolling. But, it's way better than stock. This thing jumps real nice and tracks straight. The Outlaw Pro is a fiberglass chassis.
Posted on: 1/20/2012 11:10 PM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10919511

RE: The Official Traxxas 4wd Slash Thread...
Glad your enjoying it homie.... Not sure 'bout red blinking lights, I haven't owned a VXL system yet. Sorry. Wow, snapped the front axles...Impressive. Usually the rears go first, lol. The are a couple out there. I have the MIP XDuty CVDs and haven't had one issue yet.
Posted on: 1/12/2012 10:51 AM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10905196

RE: The Official Traxxas 4wd Slash Thread...
So, how are you liking your Slash 4x4?
Posted on: 1/3/2012 5:01 AM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10889114

RE: The Official Traxxas 4wd Slash Thread...
[quote]ORIGINAL: dchomie87 See but that's exactly what I don't want. I don't want to spend 400 on this truck and then spend another 350 on a new motor esc and a 4s lipo. I think it's a little ridiculous tying up 800 bucks into a 1/10 scale truck. [/quote] I totally understand. You did ask for "stupid quick", lol! You can run the VXL system on 3S lipo and play with your gear ratio to your liking, monitor your temps until you find a happy medium. Still change out the motor mount to the KingHeadz one would be a good idea. I like that comment about ridiculous and money, but, isn't this hobby all about ridiculous and it's upgrades. You will eventually pay for it... :D All my models have been overly modified and that is part of the fun.
Posted on: 12/30/2011 9:58 AM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10882967

RE: The Official Traxxas 4wd Slash Thread...
Wow, been 6 months since someone actually posted to this thread, very cool for reviving it dchomie87. First thing would be to read the 33 pages here on what others have experienced and what they have done to correct the issues. Then... If you want stupid fast it will come with drawbacks. To me the main 2 would be slipper clutch and tires cause to solve the other problems will wear these two items out fast. Stupid fast with no heat issues. Buy a Mamba Monster 2200kv system for power w/ the optional cooling fan. Gear it high, meaning small spur large pinion for speed. Run it on 3s lipo or better yet, 4s. 4s=stupid fast Upgrades to run such a powerful powerplant. MIP XDuty CVD's front and back, KingHeadz motor mount with the larger diff bearing and some aluminum hex drives. Slipper clutch will burn up immediately, so, either lock it down or switch to a revo spec slipper clutch. I just lock mine down. This causes a lot of tire spin onroad and will chew tires up pretty quick. If only going offroad, this is not such a big issue. Only on pavement it will be like rubbing sandpaper, lol. Another issue would be that stock body that will act like a kite/parachute at high speed and want to flip your Slash over without even hitting a jump, jumping would just compound this worse. Get one of the new bodies by Proline or JConcepts that have a lot of vent cutouts in the rear of the body. I think this is a good start, the Slash 4x4 is fun and durable. Enjoy!
Posted on: 12/30/2011 1:20 AM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10882488

RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
If you look at the photo it is the stock plastic tie rods, no adjustment. But, a good set of adjustable Lundsford tie rods would be nice..... :)
Posted on: 7/24/2011 3:29 AM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10635934

RE: OFFICAL PEDE THREAD
Yeah, I believe that's about it with a stock battery and a Titan brushed motor..... Time for a brushless system and lipos? Sounds like you bought the Pede used? The tie rods are supposed to be the same length. The previous owner probably broke the rear plastic tie rod and didn't have anything to replace it but a front (shorter) one. Or one from another car (Rustler or something with shorter width). Who knows. Good luck and have fun with your son.....
Posted on: 7/24/2011 1:45 AM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10635892

RE: The Official Traxxas 4wd Slash Thread...
No problem, ask away! lol.... Great question! Regarding the motor mount bearing. Yes, they do start to heat up and eventually fail. An upgrade for that would be great as well. This is the one that I upgraded to..... http://www.kingheads.com/product_info.php?cPath=109&products_id=931&osCsid=f976556731f3003c1710f8f0725fd3d3 Along with being aluminum, it is made for a larger bearing that will strengthen it and prolong it's use without failures. Regarding your slipper clutch, you will have to tighten it substantially. I usually turn it clockwise til it's locked and then back off less than a 1/4th of a turn. Not much slip anymore.
Posted on: 5/8/2011 12:12 AM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10507675

RE: The Official Traxxas 4wd Slash Thread...
It is a drop in installation. No mods what so ever..... Slash 4x4 was built to utilize this system if the owner wanted to install it. It won't overheat period, lol. But torque and gear ratio will be a factor if you want speed. I think the biggest pinion you can fit is a 26 tooth, but, the largest that I have installed was a 25 with a 50t spur. 50 tooth spur gear is a must. You will have much more leeway with the MM2650kv system. Uhm, I was just looking on CC web site and they do have this. http://www.castlecreations.com/products/mamba_max_pro_sct.html It's a little bigger motor (550) and about the same kv, but, a little lighter on the pocket. You may want to upgrade your axles in the future if you upgrade powerplants.
Posted on: 5/7/2011 3:10 PM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10506926

RE: The Official Traxxas 4wd Slash Thread...
IMHO, something for 1/8th scale would be best. I run a Mamba Monster 2200kv in mine and have tried everything in the 540 sized motors to run 3s without cooking it. Gear the Monster high (50/25) and you should see very impressive performance with no issues overheating and tons of torque to spare. Or, try 4s like I do and drop the pinion down to a 22 tooth and it will just be ridiculous (not recommended if you like your truck, lol). But, even with a 4s I am still only seeing temps around 150 - 160 degrees for both the motor and speed controller with an outerwears cover over it. My opinion is that the 2200kv is just a beast and a little hard to deal with power wise on 4s, but, no heat issues...lol and on 3s it is awesome (fast yet controllable). If only running 3s lipo power maybe the 2650kv would be a better choice for a better blend of torque and speed with the right gearing.
Posted on: 5/7/2011 9:12 AM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10506532

RE: C.P.E. terminator
Haha! What a story! Awesome! Love the fact that stock only lasted so long and you were off to begin modding. CPE is a great company, I got a few parts on my clod myself. But, since I already had an XtremeRC CF2 chassis on it I have never looked to change my chassis. CPE or TTR would have been my next choice thou. Man, those ezrun motors will make your clod fly! Invest in some adjustable motor mounts to change the pinion to a larger one if you go brushless. The clod will top out real fast and pull insane wheel stands without a pinion change. Those wheel stands will be detrimental to your body and who knows what else. Good luck man, have fun and keep us informed.
Posted on: 12/23/2010 9:16 PM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "Tamiya Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10215099

RE: The Official Traxxas Slash short-course race truck
If you don't want to make your own, here is an [link=http://www.toadztoyz.com/TRAXXAS/RUSTLER-STAMPEDE-SLASH/Front-Rear-Sway-Bar-Kit-p8598941.html]effective sway bar kit.[/link] But, really, for the Slash to be effective you need to lower your CG (center of gravity), the Slash was designed way to high. I installed a [link=http://www.thundertechracing.com/outlaw2.htm]Thundertech Racing Outlaw Pro[/link] chassis and have seen dramatic result that no sway bar can give. Combine the two (Outlaw and sway bars) and you have a real hot rod. Another thing that helped me was installing some aluminum parts in the right places. Front bulkhead and front (well, mine is all around) steering knuckles and blocks from [link=http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=35]STRC[/link] puts some weight at the nose to keep it down. I do find the SC bodies, while cool looking, are like kites! They catch air underneath themselves and at a given speed will cause lift. I am now using the R14 concept body and a Manx dune buggy body that doesn't catch so much air under it. Now, my Slash rarely flips around turns and no more catching air at high speeds with 50 foot skids! :) [image]http://images.rcuniverse.com/gallery/photos/177921/lg-206943.jpg[/image] [image]http://images.rcuniverse.com/gallery/photos/177921/lg-206944.jpg[/image] [image]http://images.rcuniverse.com/gallery/photos/177921/lg-213365.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 11/24/2010 6:38 PM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10157461

RE: Team Associated RC18MT
You probably did get your motor dirty where the brushes are. Get some electric motor clean and spray the internals of the motor and see if it comes back to life. Also, check the wiring between your esc and motor, something might have come off. Resolder back on if so. Last and most likely would be to check your spur and pinion gear that no rocks or grains of sand is jamming the gears. The spur gear is notorious for catching little pebbles and jamming.
Posted on: 8/17/2010 3:51 PM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9940336

RE: Virus
+1 for me too.... I'll add to this as reference.
Posted on: 8/17/2010 3:35 PM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "Suggestions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9940309

RE: Added a lipo and lost distance......
I'm surprised..... 40 looks and not one comment.... Oh well, problem solved. Just no real answer on why it was. Upgraded today to 2.4 GHz, much better!
Posted on: 12/6/2009 2:31 AM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9307290

RE: Added a lipo and lost distance......
Okay, now that it is daylight and I have gotten to test more. The 6 cell nimh battery also has interference, but, not as severe. Definitely, shows signs of glitching at the same distances, again, not as bad as the lipo pack thou.
Posted on: 12/5/2009 2:49 PM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9306015

Added a lipo and lost distance......
Hi, I just added a Traxxas Slash to my stable, it has a MM5700 BL set up installed and an AM 75 MHz radio system (Futaba 2PL). It runs fine with a regular 6 cell nimh pack, no real problems with interference at fairly long distances. But, when I installed a 3S 5000 mah 25c lipo pack the car won't go more than around 100 to 150 feet away before it loses signal and is uncontrollable or just stops functioning. If I raise my transmitter way up (above my head) I sometimes can gain control enough to turn the truck around and bring it back into range. Anywhere before that distance the truck runs fine and hauls some serious butt. I've tried another receiver and crystal to be sure it wasn't that. Exact same problem. What might be causing this? I run this same radio equipment set up in 3 other trucks (1/10th scale Clodbuster w/ Novak SR SC and two 12T single motors, 1/8th scale nitro monster truck and 1/18 scale RC18MT w/ CC 6900 brushless system & 3S lipo pack) with no ill effects. Is this what I get for not upgrading my radio equipment all these years and try to run such high powered goodies? Anything I can do to try to solve this without a large investment into Spektrum or what have you? Maybe go FM? I am on a budget and these are not racers, just bashers. I don't know, any suggestions and/or reasons would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Al
Posted on: 12/5/2009 8:23 AM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9305295

RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
[quote]ORIGINAL: JayRec Hey guys, just bought a used Warhead for my son (a little project for me too) and I am wondering if anyone knows of an adapter to allow the use of my 17mm RTX wheels on the 14mm Warhead. I have 5 sets of mounted wheels for my RTX and dont want to invest any money in more tires and rims. Help would be appreciated. [/quote] You could get a set of rtx axels and switch off the ends or use the whole axel and knuckles if you can find them. Even duratrax lists the replacement part for RTX as the warhead axels so you will get what fits the 14 mm hubs. This is the wrong part, obviously....lol! PM sent your way....
Posted on: 6/29/2009 11:54 PM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8893261

RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSF70&P=ML]Associated Green Slime Grease[/link] Wonder where SKHills went.... I am curious too on what happened. Completely burnt up???? Only can wonder. I am also having a bit of a hard time with Duratrax Customer Service (CS) as well. I put an order in for spare parts that broke over a month ago (approx. 6 weeks). I emailed them late the week before last and the rep said that a part was due in any day and my order would go out priority mail. Well, it has been another week and a half and I have not received anything from the mailman yet. Mean while I have already moved on and purchased parts and upgrades to keep my RTX running. Just waiting for the promised parts from CS for back up parts.
Posted on: 6/28/2009 7:06 AM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8887578

RE: Warhead evo and Rtx?
The warhead has 14mm wheel hubs and the rtx27 have 17mm hubs. The warhead also had reverse which the rtx27 does not. But, that makes the rtx27 trans more efficient and some even say it is stronger. Metal spur gear on the RTX and I bet there are a couple of other things I am missing. Otherwise, the warhead and RTX parts are interchangeable.
Posted on: 6/25/2009 9:08 AM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8879570

RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
WOW! That's some extreme temperatures!!! Have you sealed your ST motor? Carb mounting area, pinch screws and the rear backing plate. Also, seal the tank pressure inlet and fuel outlet. And if you have not changed your fuel lines recently, they can wear out and have pinholes that are not visible to the naked eye. After all of the above, my ST never ran hotter than 300 degrees and the Axial as well. Atleast I never let it get higher. I always freaked and shut them down to cool. If you try a new tank, the Hellfire tank will fit in the back as well. But, with the stock plastic bumper I am worried that it will be more vulnerable back there. I may move mine if I pick up an aluminum rear bumper and figure out how I can mount a body over it.
Posted on: 6/12/2009 8:43 PM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8841331

RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
Thanks Skhills.... I did what you said and fabbed up an HPI Hellfire tank (150cc) to the side of the truck and low and be hold..... I ran the truck hard and had a hard time reaching 260 degrees! Finally on the very bottom (1/4 or lower) of the tank the temp ran 275.... But, as soon as I stopped the truck and idled for a few seconds, really just a few seconds, the temps came down to 260 to 255 again. I am impressed! The truck ran better, stronger and so much more consistent than with the stock tank. It even did wheel stands a few times (5). That has never happened except on a rare occasion. This run today, albet only one tank before the sun went down, has been the best the truck has ever ran. [quote]ORIGINAL: Skhills i apreciate your input...but...PLEASE REPLACE that tank; or replace your engine in the very short run. I tried every thing under the sun to seal that tank (epoxy, goop, etc. even remelting the plastic. if thats a word. it all worked for about 2 tanks... problem is nitro methane eats right through anything u can put on it. Im only trying to help, not argue..do what works for you, but dont say i didnt tell you. [/quote] As far as the tires/wheels go .. i think mine are just shot... they are very wobly and make me uncomfortable at high speeds.... What do you think of the savage wheels and tires? I really like the LST xxl wheels and tires. any thoughts ...
Posted on: 6/12/2009 8:41 PM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8840410

RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
Wow, unreal that you are running rich enough to not be able to shift to second. Yet, still having temp issues when you do lean it out. How lean is your low end needle? Can you richen it and lean out the high end needle and still get a good idle? If you have to much slop in your slide barrel of your carb, that could be leaking too. That was what was wrong with mine. It was so loose that it would actually come out of the idle set screw track and since it was that loose it leaked bad. The only fix would be to get a new carb. Waiting on mine from Duratrax. Also, is there any noticeable binding anywhere in your drivetrain? Outdrives, spur gear to clutch bell mesh, blown ring and pinion gears....etc, etc... The outdrives on the diff can excessively wear causing some binding issues that would not affect the running of the vehicle, but, could put enough bind to affect the workload of the motor. Oh yeah, I never added shims to both motors. The ST came with 2 shims. I reused them when installing the Nova head as well.
Posted on: 6/10/2009 2:09 PM by Author "OddsNEnds" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8841420