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RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
[quote]ORIGINAL: JayRec Hey guys, just bought a used Warhead for my son (a little project for me too) and I am wondering if anyone knows of an adapter to allow the use of my 17mm RTX wheels on the 14mm Warhead. I have 5 sets of mounted wheels for my RTX and dont want to invest any money in more tires and rims. Help would be appreciated. [/quote] You could get a set of rtx axels and switch off the ends or use the whole axel and knuckles if you can find them. Even duratrax lists the replacement part for RTX as the warhead axels so you will get what fits the 14 mm hubs. This is the wrong part, obviously....lol! PM sent your way....
Posted on: 6/29/2009 11:54 PM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8893261
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSF70&P=ML]Associated Green Slime Grease[/link] Wonder where SKHills went.... I am curious too on what happened. Completely burnt up???? Only can wonder. I am also having a bit of a hard time with Duratrax Customer Service (CS) as well. I put an order in for spare parts that broke over a month ago (approx. 6 weeks). I emailed them late the week before last and the rep said that a part was due in any day and my order would go out priority mail. Well, it has been another week and a half and I have not received anything from the mailman yet. Mean while I have already moved on and purchased parts and upgrades to keep my RTX running. Just waiting for the promised parts from CS for back up parts.
Posted on: 6/28/2009 7:06 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8887578
RE: Warhead evo and Rtx?
The warhead has 14mm wheel hubs and the rtx27 have 17mm hubs. The warhead also had reverse which the rtx27 does not. But, that makes the rtx27 trans more efficient and some even say it is stronger. Metal spur gear on the RTX and I bet there are a couple of other things I am missing. Otherwise, the warhead and RTX parts are interchangeable.
Posted on: 6/25/2009 9:08 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8879570
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
WOW! That's some extreme temperatures!!! Have you sealed your ST motor? Carb mounting area, pinch screws and the rear backing plate. Also, seal the tank pressure inlet and fuel outlet. And if you have not changed your fuel lines recently, they can wear out and have pinholes that are not visible to the naked eye. After all of the above, my ST never ran hotter than 300 degrees and the Axial as well. Atleast I never let it get higher. I always freaked and shut them down to cool. If you try a new tank, the Hellfire tank will fit in the back as well. But, with the stock plastic bumper I am worried that it will be more vulnerable back there. I may move mine if I pick up an aluminum rear bumper and figure out how I can mount a body over it.
Posted on: 6/12/2009 8:43 PM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8841331
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
Thanks Skhills.... I did what you said and fabbed up an HPI Hellfire tank (150cc) to the side of the truck and low and be hold..... I ran the truck hard and had a hard time reaching 260 degrees! Finally on the very bottom (1/4 or lower) of the tank the temp ran 275.... But, as soon as I stopped the truck and idled for a few seconds, really just a few seconds, the temps came down to 260 to 255 again. I am impressed! The truck ran better, stronger and so much more consistent than with the stock tank. It even did wheel stands a few times (5). That has never happened except on a rare occasion. This run today, albet only one tank before the sun went down, has been the best the truck has ever ran. [quote]ORIGINAL: Skhills i apreciate your input...but...PLEASE REPLACE that tank; or replace your engine in the very short run. I tried every thing under the sun to seal that tank (epoxy, goop, etc. even remelting the plastic. if thats a word. it all worked for about 2 tanks... problem is nitro methane eats right through anything u can put on it. Im only trying to help, not argue..do what works for you, but dont say i didnt tell you. [/quote] As far as the tires/wheels go .. i think mine are just shot... they are very wobly and make me uncomfortable at high speeds.... What do you think of the savage wheels and tires? I really like the LST xxl wheels and tires. any thoughts ...
Posted on: 6/12/2009 8:41 PM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8840410
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
Wow, unreal that you are running rich enough to not be able to shift to second. Yet, still having temp issues when you do lean it out. How lean is your low end needle? Can you richen it and lean out the high end needle and still get a good idle? If you have to much slop in your slide barrel of your carb, that could be leaking too. That was what was wrong with mine. It was so loose that it would actually come out of the idle set screw track and since it was that loose it leaked bad. The only fix would be to get a new carb. Waiting on mine from Duratrax. Also, is there any noticeable binding anywhere in your drivetrain? Outdrives, spur gear to clutch bell mesh, blown ring and pinion gears....etc, etc... The outdrives on the diff can excessively wear causing some binding issues that would not affect the running of the vehicle, but, could put enough bind to affect the workload of the motor. Oh yeah, I never added shims to both motors. The ST came with 2 shims. I reused them when installing the Nova head as well.
Posted on: 6/10/2009 2:09 PM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8841420
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
Just to add to the clutch and bell combo. I installed an Ofna 16T vented clutch bell with Mugen aluminum clutch and Mugen 1 mm springs. I want to go to a 17T bell, but, will have to mod the motor mount area to get proper gear mesh. So far with this set up I have had no issues and a lot better take off off the line. [quote]ORIGINAL: BRUSSER Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Gents: Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Need a good avdice on witch clutch bell can i use with the Super Tigre engine, trying upgrade step by step, already change cooling head for a Nova; now i want to change the clutch bell and shoes any sugestions will be deeply apreciated.[:(] [/quote]
Posted on: 6/10/2009 2:40 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8840430
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
That's nuts, Steve... Glad your having success with the ST motor. Wish it was easier, but, seems like you did a lot of good with those mods. Unfortunately, I had a bad carb.... And chased heat issues until I finally bought a new motor. Then changing tank so far has been the biggest success battling the heat issues. Once Duratrax sends me a new one I will install the carb and use the ST motor as a back up.... BTW, what aluminum parts are you getting, curious here.... [quote]ORIGINAL: Steve I've finally got the stock Super Tigre running the way I want it to. A few of the things that I did was to only run the truck for 3 to 4 minutes at a time for the first half gallon, and never in the lower half of the tank. I added two shims under the head, sealed the engine, went to only running 20% nitro, installed a Nova cooling head, installed a fan type flywheel, and also installed an HPI air filter. I've been running the truck now for about 10 minutes at a time and the temps are staying in around 275* F for the high. on shut down, the temp reads about 250*F. My glow plugs are no longer failing also. I think the break in period for this engine is almost a gallon. I run the truck a little on the rich side on the first run, and it runs just right once its warmed up. I made the mistake of trying to tune the engine on the first run, and chased the needle settings. I've learned a lot about these engines in the process of owning my first RC truck, but I think I've finally got the stock motor running the way it is supposed to run. It runs consistantly once warmed up and I'm having fun with it now. Thanks for every ones help. Duratrax has also been great about the replacement parts. Â [/quote]
Posted on: 6/10/2009 2:36 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8840424
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
Hey thanks for the heads up JayRec! Will keep an eye out for those fractures. [quote]ORIGINAL: JayRec Thanks OddsNends, the VW body is different but was fun to do for my first try at a body. As for parts cracking well lets see, the front skid plate both corners that screw into the chassis, the front and rear diff covers, and a couple areas seem to have hairline cracks near screw points. I think
Posted on: 6/10/2009 2:02 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8840386
RE: Tamiya Clod Buster Steering Question
Kool, glad your enjoying it! Sorry I wasn't around to help with your steering issue.... Post some pictures when you can.....
Posted on: 6/10/2009 1:59 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "Tamiya Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8840383
RE: Super Clodbuster what motors??????
Lotsa torque in those motors, should be fun, lots of speed off the line. Clods in general are not big top end trucks due to the gear ratio, but, you can change pinion gears to a taller one (high tooth count) by buying some adjustable motor mounts. Check ebay. Watch the stock chassis, the more you bash it, the more air you get, the more likely you will crack the chassis in different places. We used to race our clods and everyone had to have aftermarket chassis's. Here's a youtube vid of us a couple years ago. Mine will be the black clod w/ green flames on the hood. All trucks there, aftermarket everything... ;) [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjICFjY0ZXo[/youtube]
Posted on: 5/31/2009 11:21 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8813517
RE: Super Clodbuster what motors??????
Those are small..... for 18th scale only..... Look into getting a couple of SpeedGems, they're good machine wound motors and affordable. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=speedgem&search=Go
Posted on: 5/30/2009 7:01 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8810860
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
[quote]ORIGINAL: CDN_Crippler I have been looking at the Axial .28 as I have read here of people running it. Â However, locally i can get a good deal on a HPI F4.6. Â Does anybody know if this motor will fit and if it is any good? [/quote] Whatever you choose, you will need a clutch nut (I used a Mugen CN) and clutch shim kit (ofna) as these are true SG (pilot shaft) motors, but, the stock ST says it is, it is not. Don't forget to seal the motor! Have fun!
Posted on: 5/29/2009 4:17 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8808142
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
[quote]ORIGINAL: JayRec I hear ya about the motor. I gave up and installed an Axial .28 Many of us are running Axial .28 or higher, OS, LRP. Take your pick! On another note has anyone else experienced a lot of cracks and breaks with their trucks? I gave mine a good going over and found many parts that have cracked or just broken. I havent hardly drove mine yet and I sure havent bashed it hard enough to have so many cracks. If I sent them all in I wouldnt have a truck left. I also noticed my front right diff is leaking a small amount of oil. My brother's is leaking in the same spot on his RTX as well. Normal?? [/quote] Can you tell us what parts are cracking so we can look out for that as well.... Thanks! So far, I have had bad servos and a bad carb from the ST27. Broke two rear body mounts and the rear ring and pinion ground on each other. But, no cracks yet. BTW, your RTX looks SICK! [sm=thumbup.gif]
Posted on: 5/29/2009 4:10 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8808136
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
Skhills, I hear ya regarding the fuel tank. I'm not sure if I want it where you have it, though. I was thinking of trying something on the lines like the savage has theirs. Was thinking of ordering a RC8 tank, but, it is only 110 cc. Cool Chevy body! Makes me want one, LOL! Have you seen the Axial black chrome wheels? They're real nice. Second picture is of the satin chrome wheels. The LST xxl wheel and tires are sick! Real nice, huh..... Are they 17 mm? I have no idea....
Posted on: 5/21/2009 1:26 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8786526
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Skhills My RTR was a Ready To Replace.... thats why u see the new tank and engine. Anyone with tuning issues should check the tank for air leaks on the stock truck. [/quote] I agree, until I sealed my tank, I could see visible air bubbles even after seal the motor. As soon I sealed the tank the bubbles went away and temp changes was more stable as a tank was used. Tighten the two screws underneath the tank cover a little and pull off the two fittings from the pressure in and fuel out and put some gasket sealer on it (the one to seal the motor will work, I use ultra black permatex). Cool mods, Skhills! I think the stock wheels and tires are very light compared to anything out there. I have two sets of Axial wheels, one with Duratrax Street Trax and the other with Proline Maxx Mashers and I believe they are heavier. I like them, they work well, but, I'd be interested in finding something lighter too.
Posted on: 5/20/2009 1:20 PM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8784714
RE: OFFICIAL RC18MT/B/T THREAD
Wow, what was I thinking..... Or not thinking.....LMAO... I answered a post here from page 98..... Oh well, hope it helped anyways, LOL!
Posted on: 5/14/2009 3:43 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8767621
RE: OFFICIAL RC18MT/B/T THREAD
[quote]ORIGINAL: bigwill5686 Hey guys, just bought an rc18mt and i love it!!!!! coming down in size from 1/10th and 1/8th is awsome...Before i even left they hobby shop i bought all the factory aluminum parts, factory ti turnbuckles and a mamba 5400 and 3s lipo. I also bought a bunch of parts to take all my stock stuff and build an 18b for my wife. Now i have a hard time keeping the front end down on 3s, does anyone have any idea about a wheelie bar for this small beast? If there are none made does anyone have a home built that they can post pics of so i can build 1 too. Also does anyone know about a steering mod to make the servo always return to center? Mine seems to always be left or right of center... [/quote] If I'm not mistaken, I could be thou. Your steering issue is caused by the plastic servo saver retainer ring. You need to replace with a steel ring. It will make your steering tighter and come back to center. The extra weight of a 1/10th scale servo would be tremendous and imho not worth the unbalanced chassis problems you will encounter in handling. There are mounting blocks on the market that would make dropping in a mini servo a snap. I'm using a HiTec HS65MG servo and couldn't be happier. Also, I'll second the DP Drag link. What a wonderful idea. I tried 2 different aluminum steering link set ups and they still have slop, DP Drag Link's will still have some as well, but, work better than anything else made of aluminum. All steering links I believe will have slop on this car, just try to find a way to keep it to the very minimum. Wheelie bars? I have these.... http://www.hot-racing.com/?partnumber=AET133308&c=170 They're not that good! Bend easily and won't last long at all. But, you can make some struts out of 3/8 inch flat brass bars that would mount on the wheelie bar and to the flat top of the bulkhead (use the two screws there). Because of the struts the wheelie bar has held up to tons of abuse without disfiguring. In the second picture included you can see how the struts triangulate the mounting of the wheelie bar and thus absorb any hard hits from any wrong direction that would cause the bar to bend and thus become useless.
Posted on: 5/14/2009 3:26 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8767608
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
[quote]ORIGINAL: JayRec Well it was a great day. I got the Axial installed, all the parts seem to still be working properly after 5 tanks of fuel. I did notice that the first 2 1/2 tanks were VERY rich. My garage floor is very slippery in one spot :) I left the HSN at the factory flush setting for the first 2.5 tanks then started leaning it out. They say to go no more than 2 1/2 turns from the flush setting. I am at about 1 1/2. Temps are good, no more than 212*F and it was flying!!It does need to be fine tuned still. It is boggy on the holeshot especially when it is cold. All in all it was not that bad of a job to do the transplant. Just to catch you all up here is what I did... I bought an HPI 4.6 carb to replace the Axial carb that stuck into the spur gear. I had to get the Ofna clutch kit to build the clutch bell assembly I bought a new fly wheel, clutch bell and shoes and springs I used the stock pipe for now, its a tight squeeze but once the header is on it is nice and firm, I used the after run oil like it was suggested in here and it slipped on The original seal seemed to slop around and it leaked. This is my first nitro vehicle and my first engine transplant. I made some mistakes and I worked around them. It was a good learning experience and now I want to do more of them LOL! To anyone who is or has gotten frustrated just stick with it. Sometimes the best solution is to spend the money and buy a part to solve a problem (like the HPI carb) and sometimes just reading the post in here for ideas is the way to go. I really appreciate the help that everyone in here gave me. Its that kind of interaction that makes a hobby fun. [/quote] Two things.... That's cool to know that there is an option to replace the stock carb. thanks. BTW, did you transplant a .32 or .28? Secondly, what flywheel did you buy? Good job!
Posted on: 5/2/2009 4:23 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8733678
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
[quote]ORIGINAL: xCrucialx [quote]ORIGINAL: OddsNEnds Same as illeegal1, I used the purple HPI .21 seal. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLJ1&P=ML It'll be tight at first, but, use some afterrun oil to help it. After a few runs the seal will become easier to work with to install the header. [/quote] This was on the stock super pooper with stock pipe? Thanks. Looks
Posted on: 4/30/2009 2:34 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8728065
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
Same as illeegal1, I used the purple HPI .21 seal. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLJ1&P=ML It'll be tight at first, but, use some afterrun oil to help it. After a few runs the seal will become easier to work with to install the header.
Posted on: 4/29/2009 12:18 PM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8725842
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
[quote]ORIGINAL: JayRec Has anyone who swapped the stock motor for the Axial tried using the stock pipe with it? I tried to hook it up but the darn thing doesnt fit! It is slightly smaller than the back end of the Axial. I am wondering if it is just the silicone gasket that is too thick. Any ideas? [/quote] The seal is too large... With the stock motor and the stock seal the exhaust leaked bad.... I switched to the HPI seals and they worked great. I am now in the middle of transplanting an Axial 28 in and had the same problem as you with the manifold not fitting the HPI seal. I ended up purchasing an O.S. seal for the 21RZ motor.... part #22826140.... Fits the stock manifold perfectly and tight as well. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=22826140&search=Go
Posted on: 4/28/2009 11:40 PM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8724598
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
Also, would changing the motor help at all? Or does all mills show the same symptoms due to the tank shape?
Posted on: 4/7/2009 2:26 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8656819
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
Alffa164, thanks for the reply. I can definitely see what you are talking about. Never thought of the shape of the tank! Wow, you guys tried a lot things to correct this issue. Will tune for early performance and do as you suggested and refuel earlier as well. Thanks again, Al
Posted on: 4/6/2009 4:20 PM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8655019
RE: Anyone Own a RT-X 27?
Hi guys! Great read so far, I've been a lurker for about a week and have read through every page in this thread. I just picked up an RT-X27, couldn't pass up the deal from Tower.... I've started to do some of the pretrip preps that have been suggested.... fuel filter, seal the motor, fill diffs and locktite what I can. I really like the truck so far. But, I do have an issue that I'd like to run past you guys. When I tune it, it runs well for most of a tank, but, towards the final 1/3rd to 1/4th of a tank the stock motor starts running lean and the temps start to go up, approximately around 310 degrees. If I tune to keep those temps down, then the motor stays cold and does not want to reach full potential until it starts leaning out again towards the end and temps finally reach around 270 degrees. BTW, I am running O'Donnell 20%. So far I've tried to add more fuel tubing to the pressure line to stabilize the pressure, but, that is about it. Never had this problem with my RC10GT with an OS 18cvrx and would really appreciate suggestions to this leaning problem for my RT-X27. Very difficult to keep tuned through a tank of fuel. Thanks, Al
Posted on: 4/5/2009 6:10 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8650031
RE: Clod Axles?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Mekong So theres no way to just order replacement axles from tower, you gotta pay 100$+ just for some axles... Also if a break one theres no way to fix with out buying another 100$ set? Sounds kinda lame, are there any other options? [/quote] Huh? There's replacement parts for the clod axles, just need to look. Check all the different clod aftermarket companies, some have replacement parts as well as their hop ups. ThunderTech Racing has a Clod junkyard section. Answer to your first question, yeah, usually clod axles will run pretty high for a set or each infact.
Posted on: 6/13/2006 11:47 PM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4388056
RE: just picked up a used clod
Check your servo and servo horn. Make sure both the horn and the servo is straight up in the neutral position. Also, check where your streering linkages are mounted to the steering arm in front and back of each axel. there are different holes to to mount the ball on. Closer in and you get less steering and farther out you get more steering. I usually have mine on my stock clod all the way out on the front and in the middle hole in the back. Lastly, make sure the servo savers (two pieces that go through the axel housings with a nut on the top) are tight enough that they do not give under normal use. In the stock plastic form I would not suggest jumping it to hard. Tamiya uses fairly brittle plastic and can be prone to shattering or cracking. That's all I can think of right now, hope it helps, good luck and have fun.
Posted on: 5/29/2006 6:54 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4327298
RE: So i just bought a new clod....
Delrin is very durable. They resist cracking and is more forgiving than aluminum. The delrin will flex a little while the aluminum will not, aluminum will cause more stress on various parts around it. RockCrawling, those TTR adapters will do great!
Posted on: 5/29/2006 6:35 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4327278
RE: Newbie to the crawling sport
I can agree with what yzn said. Thou, if you are planning to buy mods, the clod will cost a small fortune. The TLT1 is cheaper and seems to be a very capable crawler when set up right. I've seen some TLT1s do some pretty awesome crawls! BTW, I don't ever think any question is bothersome. You have ask someone to gain knowledge, if not, learning by trial and error is not an efficient way to learn. :D
Posted on: 1/4/2006 12:55 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3728982
RE: MY new O.S.sociated RC18GT
LOL Frost! Can't keep a good thing down..... Your info in that thread is great even if people don't mount the 18CVR. The SSRC clutch is great in any apprication. Minimus, I was burning up clutchbells so fast with a composite clutch and the heat it made. So far I have only changed the clutchbell once since installing the SSRC clutch.
Posted on: 1/4/2006 12:49 AM by Author "OddsNEnds"
in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3728969
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