RE: ? CA glue ??
A sanding block with medium grade paper.
Posted on: 10/28/2009 12:46 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9209281

RE: Kill switch or not?
Thanks for the link, that one is about $25 cheaper than the first one I looked at.
Posted on: 9/30/2009 4:28 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9136456

RE: Kill switch or not?
Thanks for the replies. I'll probably go with the Killer rc switch. A little pricey but probably worth it. I do have a fail safe from an 1/8 scale buggy I could put on there too.
Posted on: 9/30/2009 9:03 AM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9135432

Kill switch or not?
Do most folks install a kill switch or do you just kill the engine with the throttle going completely closed? I was thinking of rigging up a kill switch on a third channel.
Posted on: 9/29/2009 10:18 AM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9132772

RE: EASY VEE BUILD *NEED MORE HELP* (almost done bare with me)
The one near the primer bulb (top) is a breather/overflow, the one on the bottom is the fuel inlet, hook it to the pickup in your tank. I'm building an Easy Vee too. To the point where I need to paint the interior, add some floatation then install the deck.
Posted on: 9/27/2009 4:56 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9127820

RE: exhaust port timing?
I agree, 167 is pretty mild. I usually shoot for 175-180 on my nitro engines when running a tuned pipe.
Posted on: 9/23/2009 12:47 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9118029

RE: exhaust port timing?
2-stroke tuners handbook, I think the authors last name is Jennings. I don't recall off hand the exact formula, but basically it uses exhaust duration, target rpm, exhaust gas temp and some constant to come up with a distance from face of piston to middle of the convergent cone. I usually start a little longer than what the formula gives and trim the header 1/8" at a time to zero in on it. That brings up another question, what is a typical max rpm for a stock engine? I'll be running a 470 prop. Thanks.
Posted on: 9/23/2009 10:08 AM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9117687

RE: exhaust port timing?
Thanks for the info. I needed it for some calculations to set tuned pipe length.
Posted on: 9/23/2009 9:03 AM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9117569

exhaust port timing?
Anyone know the exhaust duration on a bone stock zenoah 26pum? Thanks
Posted on: 9/22/2009 11:18 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9116861

RE: EASY VEE BUILD *NEED MORE HELP* (almost done bare with me)
In the upper right pic above, turn your servo arm 180 degrees and run the cable straight out of the box if you can. You will have to reverse the servo direction on your transmitter if you can. Less binding and drag in the linkage that way. If your transmitter doesn't have servo reversing then leave it, or you could also turn the whole servo 180 degrees in its mount instead of reversing it on the transmitter. Can't see you battery, but if your using duracell's or similar double a's, you can't charge them and the extra plug on your switch is then useless. Its for charging nicads or nimh packs.
Posted on: 9/22/2009 11:10 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9116843

RE: EASY VEE BUILD *NEED MORE HELP* (almost done bare with me)
Thanks for the link. I already have a header but Zipp is out of stock on pipes. Just looking for alternatives. If you don't use the nuts with the nylon insert use regular nuts but use some blue locktite on them, the will vibrate loose.
Posted on: 9/22/2009 7:13 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9116178

RE: EASY VEE BUILD *NEED MORE HELP* (almost done bare with me)
I looked at the website where I bought my engine and the pics there show it mounted like you have it, bulb up. The only other walbro carb with a bulb that I have seen was on an airplane and it was pointing down. Maybe it doesn't matter, can someone varify this? Could you post the pipe link please?
Posted on: 9/22/2009 5:30 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9115938

RE: EASY VEE BUILD *NEED MORE HELP* (almost done bare with me)
Been following this thread for a while, I just started one of these and will be using the same engine. In post 84 above the pics show the primer bulb on the carb pointing up. Shouldn't it be on the bottom? That should also place the control arm on the carb toward the back of the boat, making linkage hook up easier. Also in that same pic the fuel inlet is on top and facing the back of the boat. Stacked, where did you get your exhaust pipe?
Posted on: 9/22/2009 1:46 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9115433

RE: PT 109 diorama need to finish w/rc components
Thats really cool looking. Are you planning to add some people? That would really finish it. Reminds me of the movie about JFK and also McCale's Navy.
Posted on: 8/15/2009 9:00 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9019120

RE: WD40 Good or evil? opinions wanted
Post 8 mentions the paraffin. I'm sure the exact recipe is a strict trade secret, to avoid cheap imitations. We needed to find out the exact chemical composition of G10 fiberglass at work and never could get any manufactures to give us the info. As far as after run oil. I use a 50/50 mix of ATF and lighter fluid. ATF by itself is too thick so the lighter fluid thins it then eventually evaporates. ATF has a rust inhibitor in it.
Posted on: 8/13/2009 9:14 AM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9012894

RE: WD40 Good or evil? opinions wanted
I heard it was developed to solve a problem. Rockets that use liquid fuel form frozen condensation (ice) on their outer skins, this adds considerable weight to the rocket. Spraying it with WD-40 before hand prevents the ice from sticking and it falls off on initial launch, probably from vibration. I heard it was even used on the Saturn moon rockets. If you have ever seen a rocket launch up close on TV or in person you can see the ice falling off as the rocket leaves the launch pad. They don't spray the whole rocket just the area round the fuel tanks. Like was mentioned it does have paraffin (wax) in it which is what give it it's no stick quality. Once the propellant evaporates your left with a waxy residue, that's why I wouldn't use it as after run oil. I do some steel fabrication and use it on drill bits and saw blades, cuts quicker and they stay sharp longer.
Posted on: 8/12/2009 9:51 AM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9010174

RE: Stackeddeck's Problems- continued...
Not sure where Stacked is located in Alabama, but the oldest club in IMPBA is here: http://www.geneh.rchomepage.com/ in Huntsville.
Posted on: 8/10/2009 9:28 AM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9004413

RE: Stackeddeck's Problems- continued...
Are there any guys running boats in your area? Seek out some help. Find out whats popular in your area and do something similar. Search NAMBA or IMPBA, they have lists of clubs in your state. The learning curve can be steep. Having some one help you will be the difference between giving up in frustration and a life long hobby. Also talk to your local hobby shops about whats going on in your area.
Posted on: 8/9/2009 10:41 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9003533

RE: Dumas boat kits please look
Why not just get this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWFH3**&P=7 I thought I saw Tower was giving $50 off if spending more than $300.
Posted on: 8/7/2009 5:49 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8998248

RE: Dumas boat kits please look
That .46 size engine is for the aqua craft airboats and is not a water cooled marine engine, so it would not work in a U-1 hydro. Unless you can find a cool clamp for it, Octura use to sell them. Airboats and regular boats are two very different things. You need to decide which type of boat you want. I personally wouldn't have an airboat, they just don't do it for me. The only reason to have one is if your pond/lake has a lot of crap floating on it or very high under water weeds or lilly pads. These will foul up an underwater prop and water pick up which will kill your engine and then you go swimming. Can be very anoying. One other thing to add to your price list is props. Good metal Octura props are $20-25 each. Like I said you don't need to buy everything at once, spread it out over 2 or 3 months. You may be able to find stuff cheaper than what Dumas sells for, spend a little time searching.
Posted on: 8/7/2009 5:38 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8998225

RE: Dumas boat kits please look
It's Ok, there is certainly better stuff out there, and more expensive stuff. If your not going to race in competition it will be adequate. If money is an issue you could buy the kit and start building it. You won't need the engine and hardware until your about 80% done with it. Then buy the radio last.
Posted on: 8/7/2009 4:45 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8998095

RE: Dumas boat kits please look
Of all those boats the U-1 Atlas was may favorite. I was a big fan of full size unlimiteds back in the day. A gas engine won't fit in any of those boats. I haven't priced any marine nitro engines lately, but Thunder Tiger just came out with a .46 marine engine, that's what I would buy now if I was in the market. You could probably put something together for around $350, do not skimp on a rudder servo though. Use something like a hitec 625 or 645. A .40 size engine is 7.5 cc, way samaller than a 26cc zenoah.
Posted on: 8/7/2009 4:06 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8997985

RE: Dumas boat kits please look
I have had the U-1 atlas, very fast with a .40 and tuned pipe, certainly over 40 mph. The Dv20 could handle the .32. A friend of mine put a .40 in one. The weight isn't an issue, its the speed. The faster you push that little boat the more unstable it will get. I hit a wake from a full size boat with mine and it did a barrel roll, land upright and kept going. Where do you intend to run your boat? The faster the boat the more room you need.
Posted on: 8/7/2009 3:40 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8997927

RE: Dumas boat kits please look
I have built all 4 of those, though it has been 10 to 15 years ago. If you enjoy building with wood Dumas kits are hard to beat as opposed to a more expensive fiberglass hull. The DV 20 is 24" long not 20". I have built 2 of those, the first had a .15 engine and the 2nd has a K&B 21 with a tuned pipe and it flat out hauled. The engine you posted with a regular muffler would be a good choice for it. The 24" hotshot was their first outbourd tunnel kit and does not handle as well as the Hot shot IV. The Quickie 40 will be the fastest of the four. A couple of thoughts, Outboard engines like OS are very expensive IMO. K&B outboards went out of production sometime ago but I think another company started producing them again on a limited basis, still they are hard to get and pricey now. Depending on where you intend to run your boat, a deep vee will handle rougher water better than the other 3. The tunnels and hydro require smoother sheltered ponds. If this is your first boat I would go with the DV20. It is a very easy build. Build it with a surfacing prop and flex drive. I think the directions call for a rigid shaft and under hull prop. A surface setup with a bigger prop will give more speed. Mine did 40 to 45 MPH (guessing). Use epoxy to assemble wood boats, not wood glue like elmer's, and be sure to coat the interior with thinned epoxy and don't forget to add some flotation inside the hull like styrofoam. If I were to build one now I would fiberglass the exterior of the hull then paint it. This adds some strength and durability. If you just paint it, over time small cracks will develop and the wood will absorb water, getting heavier and eventually fall apart. Hope this helps.
Posted on: 8/7/2009 3:27 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8997896

RE: Tuned piped OS 75AX
You could see a 1500 rpm or so increase with a tuned pipe. The key word here is "tuned". The length needs to be tuned to you particular set up including the prop and nitro content of your fuel and head clearance. A change in any one of these would require a change in tuned pipe length. Most tuned pipes come a little long for trimming purposes, at the input end. Your engine will use more fuel turning a higher rpm too. Most sport engines come with mild port timing and way too much head clearance for longevity reasons. You can increase exhaust duration when using a tuned pipe and see significant gains in rpm.
Posted on: 7/28/2009 10:00 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8972186

RE: .15 size pylon planes
Thanks for the prop info. My plans from RCM arrived a few days ago, time to plot some foils and start burning foam.
Posted on: 7/25/2009 8:35 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "General Racing Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8963551

RE: .15 size pylon planes
What size props were typically used on these planes? The rules no longer appear on the AMA site, does anyone have a copy they could post?
Posted on: 7/15/2009 11:04 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "General Racing Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8937034

RE: .15 size pylon planes
I found some plans and ordered them, shoestring, el bandito and deja vu. Finding a strong running .15 will be another issue. AMA also has one called "quarter midget".
Posted on: 7/14/2009 4:50 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "General Racing Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8933019

RE: .15 size pylon planes
Daven, Any idea what your friend would want for a fuselage?
Posted on: 7/13/2009 5:44 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "General Racing Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8929954

RE: .15 size pylon planes
Epr3, let me know what you have, post pics if you can. Thanks
Posted on: 7/12/2009 10:42 PM by Author "PAINLESS" in the forum "General Racing Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8927784