RE: After binding everything works except engine
Hello and thanks for the replies, I bought this plane used and it didn't come with any manuals (which I didn"t state prior). Before I purchased it I saw the engine and control surfaces work and the battery was a 4S. After hours of trying everything and tips from here I called Horizon Hobby. I spoke with a tech named Andy and told him the situation, he asked what type of battery and I told him the 4S. He asked if he could listen to the start up audible tones and I went to the basement with the phone and he listened. By listening he said that the ESC was set for 6S batteries and took me thru the process of changing it to 4S and that was it. I knew for a fact that the previous owner was running 4S and I saw the battery. I asked how this happened and he stated it's very rare that something like this could happen. Lesson here learned for me here, when buying a used plane get the manuals (he didn"t have them) or download them. I hope this lesson for me could help someone in the future. And also a thanks to Andy of Horizon Hobby who isoloated the problem and corrected it in five minutes. Pat
Posted on: 5/18/2013 2:58 AM by Author "PDF" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514981

After binding everything works except engine
Hello all, I have a eflite 300 extra 32e. I just binded it to my Spectrum DX7s and all the control surfaces work correct except the motor. The motor will turn on just past idle then anything over that there is no motor response (no rpm's) Is there anything in the radio that I'm not programming? this is my first electic. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Pat
Posted on: 5/16/2013 6:54 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513761

RE: Installing dubro hinges in ARF
Thanks again Al
Posted on: 9/18/2012 3:16 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232769

RE: Installing dubro hinges in ARF
Hi Ahicks, I just looked on the Gorilla Glue website and they have (Gorilla Glue) and also (Wood Glue) I'm assuming you are talking about the straight Gorilla glue. How much do you apply in the slot? do you moisten the slot first? and do you put any glue on the hinge, or just the slot and put it in. Also when it does expand does it push the hinge out? and during the expansion period you keep picking it out or do you wait till it dries? I'm thinking of going this route since epoxy is a PIA to work with. By the way is Gorilla glue brittle once dry or is it more flexible? Thanks for your help, Pat
Posted on: 9/16/2012 5:20 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11230407

Installing dubro hinges in ARF
Hello all, I just obtained my first ARF and getting back into the hobby after 10 years. I need some advice on installing the dubro hinges. After reading a number of threads I have yet to read (I probably couldn't find) a way of recessing the pin part of the hinge. Since the edges that I have to cut into only have a slice thru the monocote because they were set up to use CA hinges, is there a way to get under the monocote to cut the relief so the center of the hinge lays in there without cutting the monocote? Second, I'm reading the people who use epoxy push the epoxy in with a shaved down popsicle stick or tooth pick, or t-pin then apply epoxy to the flat of the hinge then push in. I see how you first put a oil or vaseline on the hinge pin so to not bind up the pin later, but I don't see how the epoxy on the flat wouldn't stay on the flat when pushed in do the the snug fit, I think it would stay on top of the surface being the monocote would act like a squeege. I was also thinking of going with the Pacer or Zap hinge glue since it's cleans easier, the Gorilla glue seems it would be a little trickier since it foams up. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Pat
Posted on: 9/16/2012 1:28 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11230189

RE: ARF for my O.S. 46 FX (Phoenix 300 extra)
Thank you for all your inputs. Pat
Posted on: 8/29/2012 6:10 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11210913

ARF for my O.S. 46 FX (Phoenix 300 extra)
Hello all, I have'nt flown for years now and would like to get back into it. I was in the mist of moving so the process was slow. About a year or so ago I bought myself a ARF GP revolver 70" with a Saito 1.00 to go in it and now am getting serious to get this hobby back. I've been using my simulator in the mean time to keep myself in key with the radio, not the real thing though. Before I fly the Revolver I want to start out with a ,40 size plane and use the engine and components that were in my old trainer to gradually get back into real flying, also I'd hate to have a mishap with the more expensive Revolver. This brings me to the question of my plane choice. I'm looking at the Phoenix 300 extra .40 size with a 55" wingspan I'm seeing that people like the model and the average engine installed in it is a O.S. 55AX. I'm seeing that the specs on the .55 is 1.68 hp @ 16000 rpm and weighs 14.29 ozs w/o muffler. The O.S. 46 FX is 1.62 hp @ 16000 rpm and weighs 13.20 ozs w/o muffler. I'd like to get the most performance out of the 300 extra so I'd like to ask especially if there are people who have this model. Do you think I would see much of a difference using my old engine versus what I see putting in theres with the .55 AX. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Pat
Posted on: 8/12/2012 3:47 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11190736

RE: Advise on next model to buy
RCShadow, thank you for you concern. I'm about 10 miles inland and had 40 mph sustained winds and 50 mph gusts, water in the garage and neighbor with downed trees. It was scary but I concider myself fortunate. My thoughts and prayers go to those hit the hardest especially along the coast. Thanks again, Pat
Posted on: 8/28/2011 7:52 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10691212

RE: Advise on next model to buy
Hi Rick, Thanks for the reply. I see your from Malden, as I stated I'm first building to get back into flying but i was a member at the 109th club in Saugus/Revere club. How about yourself.
Posted on: 8/28/2011 6:36 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10691125

Advise on next model to buy
Hello all, I haven't been flying for a few years now and want to get back flying. I was flying a trainer for 1 1/2 seasons about 4 gallons of fuel, it was a Goldberg Eagle 2. I have been using the simulator on my non flying time. I would like to get a taildragger next preferably a aerobatic/sports plane. I want to use the equipment out of my old trainer (OS .46) and servos. I like the 300 extras and 540 type planes with the full cowl for looks. It seems that all the planes that I come across in that style weigh in over 6lbs. I mention this because my Eagle 2 weighed 5 lbs. My concern is that after searching out reviews on .46 size planes the majority of people say that they need or should of have put in a larger engine, that throws a wrench in for easy selections. I don't want to get the plane which is meant for a .46 engine then fly it and be dissapointed on the performance. What are your experiences on building a model with the recommended engine size? are you happy? Could you recommend some planes that I mentioned with a full cowl (I like a good looking plane) that would fly on the .46 engine? This winter I purchased a Revolver .60 with a Saito 1.00 to fly but decided I should build the .46 size to get my feet wet again before jumping into it with the Revolver. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you, Pat
Posted on: 8/28/2011 5:11 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10691022

RE: Fuel questions
Thank you for all your replies. I lost my faith in that hobby shops advice. I'll be looking forward to my first gasser Thanks again, Pat
Posted on: 6/18/2010 9:07 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9812472

Fuel questions
Hello all, Getting back into the sport after about 7 years out. I'm building a four stroke now, but wanting to go for gas engines next. I was talking to a salesperson at the local hobby shop and was asking questions about gas engines. He said there are problems with the gas having to much ethenol and that it dries up the gaskets or diaframs in the carb, is this a true statement? If so are there anyother fuel solutions. I'm looking forward to gas for myself so I want to be prepared. Thank you, Pat
Posted on: 6/18/2010 7:14 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9812268

Getting back in the sport, Need some help
Hello all, I getting into the sport again after going by a flying field. Got the bug again. It's been awhile and first I noticed the new 2.4 MZ radios. I'm planning to use my older Futaba T6XAs for awhile and then I'll switch. I haven't flown for about7 years. The radio turned on the reciever still had power in it, I'll have to charge them. My questions. 1- Will I have any issues and what would I look for in the batteries? ( radio, receiver, glow charger) 2- How long do you charge the glow charger ( I lost the manual) 3- When charging the radio and receiver, how long and will I damage them if left on the charger to long? Thanks for you help, Pat I'll be back on the forums like I was years ago. What a great wealth on info.
Posted on: 6/18/2010 7:07 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9812257

RE: My Modified Venture 60 COLORS
Thanks Damifino for you reply, I'll be looking forward to seeing you photos. Thank you and keep up the great work. Regards, Pat
Posted on: 12/5/2004 11:11 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2405324

RE: My Modified Venture 60 COLORS
Hello there Damifino, That's a beautiful looking plane, and I must say you seem to be a awesome craftsman. I really like the pushed back canopy and enclosed nose. I had a few questions on the nose. You said you used 1/4x1/2 balsa sticks, how did you attach the stick together? did you glue the 1/4" side of the pieces together or the 1/2" so you had enough wood for shaping? And also I noticed in you pictures the plywood plate behind the spinner has the look of several circle on it almost like dowels . Is that and illusion or is that something that's functional. Thanks in advance for you help, and can't wait to see you covering job. Regards, Pat
Posted on: 12/2/2004 11:32 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2397128

Repairing of aileron torque rod on CG Eagle 2
Hello all, I need some advice on repairing the aileron torque rod on my CG Eagle 2 trainer. First of all I want to make sure that I am using the correct term for the torque rod, ( it's the rod that was installed in a groove and covered again with the trailing edge near the center part of the wing where the two halves are epoxied together and the rod controls the aileron. That being said, I had a nasty mishap a while ago and broke the trailing edge of the left wing near the root. I tore off the monocote and saw the damage as I stated above. I applied a piece of 1/8" plywood to the inside of the wings TE between the webs to give it strength. Now that wasn't good enough for me, I really had to give it the overkill method, LOL. After epoxying the 1/8"ply to the inside I also drill 1/8" holes to install dowels in it so I would never have to worry about it. After drilling the holes I put some epoxy in the hole and installed the dowels. The epoxy got into the groove where the rod is and now it doesn't move. Well I cut a slot where it's epoxied and was going to cut the whole rod out and after cutting most of the way through the rod it came free/loose. Now I need some advise on a possible way to strengthen the rod since I cut about 3/4 of the way thru. Try to picture this. I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and ground into it in a parrallell cut, not 90 degrees to it, because I originally planed on just taking out the rod. So the rod is ground down about 3/4 of way into it with the curve of a dremel cut off blade. Unbelievably the rod still has a good amount of strenght. Can anyone give my some direction on trying to repair the rod. It's almost like I need some kind of liquid or mold-able putty that I could form and let dry to give it's full strength back. Another thing I was thinking of was if I cut through the rod and after cutting out the beveled ends, is there a collar long enough that would take up the span and be able to slide onto it. And do you think laying some solder will help. Any advice would be appreciated . Thanks in advance, Regards, Pat
Posted on: 12/1/2004 11:07 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2394111

Carl Goldberg Ultimate Bipe Question
Hello all, I called the Carl Goldberg Company to ask what was the difference in there models, specifically the Ultimate Bipe when the company changed over a few years ago. They stated that the only difference is that the older models kits were die cut and the newer ones are laser cut. In your opinion which kit is better the old or the new. I have interest in that kit next so I would like some opions. Also the people that have them how do you like them and what kind of power plant do you recommend for great aerobatics maneuvers. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Regards, Pat
Posted on: 11/23/2004 9:45 AM by Author "PDF" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2368890

RE: SUITABLE WORK SURFACE?
A lot of people will go with a hollow core door. And then you can build your own frame or put it on a old work bench, it's up to you. And some put ceiling tile on top of that so the pins will hold. I personally have a solid wood door ( I got it off a construction site that they where doing demo to for free ) and got (4) threaded flanges that I screwed to the underside and install (4) threaded pipes too for legs. I then have a 1/2 inch thick piece of sheet rock that I place on top of the entire door. If I ever have to replace the sheet rock it's only $5 for a sheet 4'X8'. That's gives you a starting point, and I'm sure you'll get plenty of ingenious ideas to follow you'll learn to be very resourceful. The best of luck building and enjoy the hobby. If you have other questions just shout them out there's always someone willing to help. I find this site very informative and a lot of knowledgeable people willing to lend a hand. Regards, Pat
Posted on: 11/22/2004 10:23 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2367925

RE: Yellow Aircraft .30 300 Extra CG question
Hi John, Thanks for the reply and nice plane. As I stated in the last post I am moving my equipment over from my trainer to the extra. I also tried to contact Yellow aircraft and they haven't returned my call yet (It seems that's all I get is there answering machine) So if you do have the manual or any paper work that'll be great I'd really appreciate it. Thanks, Pat
Posted on: 11/22/2004 4:27 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2366882

Installing Dubro pinned hinge question.
Hello all, I'm building my .60 GP 300 extra and was going to install robart hinges but then realized that I needed blocking for the lenght of the pins. Oh well, I'll use the dubros that I have anyway. The dubros are 1/2" long from the pin, the trailing edge of my wing, elevator, and rudder are 1/2" thick. The problem I'm having is that at a number of locations there happens to be either a cross brace or solid wood which I had to apply glue during the build up. When slotting out the hole for the hinge I am stopped by the CA glue that had wicked into the trailing edge and cut my slotting depth down to about 7/16th, so I'm not able to fully recess the hinge. I have already cut all the slots so I really don't want to relocate them. My initial thoughts were to cut the 1/16th off the hinge and possibly drill one or two more hole in the hinge for gripping power for the epoxy ( due to when I cut the 1/16th off it will probalbly just cut into the existing holes on the end of the hinge ). I could do that and also pin it. Is there a way of cutting through the hardened wood to get that extra 1/16th. I personnaly don't want to use pins, for cosmetic reasons, and never had a dought about the strenght of the epoxy holding onto the hinge. On my old trainer I had the dubro hinge and expoxied it in and I couldn't pull it out. I would appreciate any confirmation of my suggestions, and would appreciated other tips. Thank you all for your input and expertise. Regards, Pat
Posted on: 11/21/2004 9:56 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2364889

Yellow Aircraft .30 300 Extra CG question
Hello all, I just bought a used Yellow Aircraft .30 300 extra. And would like to know if anyone can tell the location of the CG . I bought it with out engine and servos. Also I plan on putting a OS 46 FX in it for a power plant. I think this should power it very well. Whats your opionion on that setup? This is my second plane, my other is a Goldberg eagle II in which i'm taking the engine out of . This Extra has the full cowl, so I assume I'll need a Pitts style muffler. Is there any brand or type someone can lead me too for the muffler. Any input and advice on setting it up and flying it would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Regards, Pat
Posted on: 11/21/2004 9:10 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2364728

Robart hinge installation
Hello all, I have been using the Dubro flat hinges and wanted to give the 1/8 inch robart hinge a try. I bought the hinges and centering tool. I went to install them today and after putting my marks on the control feathers I saw that there isn't enough wood to really grab into. Let me explain. The average depth of wood that I would drill into was only 1/2" and since the hinges are approx 1" long I would loose most of the grip since the barbs are at the bottom 1/2" and after enlarging the hole to accomadate for the taper next to the pin I can't see much holding power. I am under the assumption that you must have to put extra blocking behind the hinge locations. If so I didn't realize this till to late. Am I correct in assuming this? At least I'll know for the next time. Thanks in advance for your help. Regards, Pat
Posted on: 11/19/2004 6:46 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2359206

Pacific Aeroworks Edge 540T
Hello all, After reading the posts on the Pacific Works 540 i'm now very interested. I am looking for a new home for my OS .46 FX. What I understand from the posts that this size engine is not suitable for hovering and torque rolls ( am I correct in assuming this ? ). I would like to learn 3D flying, but for the time being I want to learn more aerobactic manueveurs especially KE and KE loops, and slow rolls. These manuveurs is what I would love to learn. This being said would this be the plane to install the OS .46 FX and be able to achieve these goals. And what other capabilities would this setup be capable of doing. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your input. Regards, Pat
Posted on: 11/19/2004 6:26 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2359162

RE: Aeroworks .40 Size Edge Vs. Pacific Aeromodel's .40 size Edge
Hello all, After reading the posts on the Pacific Works 540 i'm now very interested. I am looking for a new home for my OS .46 FX. What I understand from the posts that this size engine is not suitable for hovering and torque rolls ( am I correct in assuming this ? ). I would like to learn 3D flying, but for the time being I want to learn more aerobactic manueveurs especially KE and KE loops, and slow rolls. These manuveurs is what I would love to learn. This being said would this be the plane to install the OS .46 FX and be able to achieve these goals. And what other capabilities would this setup be capable of doing. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your input. Regards, Pat
Posted on: 11/19/2004 3:00 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2358657

GP 300 Extra .60 engine and mod info
Hello all, Thanks to all who have responded to my previous questions. While I'm building I'm sure to have more questions. I started this build last year and couldn't finish it, but am determined to finish it now. I started the build as per plan and while reading through the posts have seen some mods. I have read through the posts by (Adrian M) and found it a great thread. Thank you Adrian M for the info. After reading the thread I have some additional questions. One of the lasts post was from AdrianM, and stated that the Saito 1.00 was just OK power for the 300 extra, and was going to take it out for another model and put in a OS FX .91 in replacement. I wondering now is this a better powerplant. Any opinions please. And regards to the rudder mods, I see that some are responding that there Knife edges require full throttle to maintain it. If I were to build it stock without the rudder mod what kind of knife edge would I expect. This is my first aerobatic plane coming from a trainer, and when I first purchased it I was on the assumption that I would build it stock and I should have a fully aerobatic plane. My primary concern was doing knife edges, and knife edge loops. I have already built the rudder and elevator. I'm thinking of just adding to the rudder a piece of balsa 1/2" from the top back and taper it to 1" at the bottom. Do you think this will do,or should I not bother,and should I add anything to the elevator. All in all I was planning to build it stock, and was thinking a trying a four stroke Saito 1.00 but originally a OS FX .91, and being able to do knife edges and knife edge loops. What do I need to do this? or is this not obtainable. Any input would be appreciated. Sorry for the long post, I got carried away. Thanks in advance for all your help. Regards, Pat
Posted on: 11/18/2004 1:52 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2355641

RE: GP 300 extra .60 Reinforcing sheeting
Thanks for the reply, I see that it serves no purpose for strenght. But I just would hate to hear it crunch when handling the wing. I may opening that section back up and glue another piece of balsa under the joints for a little rigidness. Thanks again, Pat
Posted on: 11/18/2004 12:08 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2355349

GP 300 extra .60 Reinforcing sheeting
Hello all, I am just about complete with the wing. The section of the wing just behind the 1/4" dowels (pins) that would hook the front of the wing onto the fuse. The sheeting on both side where they join at the center of the two wing halves is so weak, that every time I touch it I think my finger will go right into it. Has anyone experienced that also and if so, did any one reinforce that area and what methods did you use. Thanks in advance. Regards, Pat
Posted on: 11/17/2004 7:15 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2353511

Sanding ailerons on GP 300 extra 60
Hello all, I am currently Hello all, I am currently building the GP 300 extra .60 I am at the point where I'm constructing the ailerons. Per instructions I have pinned the 1/16 th balsa sheet on the board and glued the leading edge to the balsa sheet and glued the aileron ribs to the sheet. The instructions state to sand the leading edge which is 3/8 square balsa flush with the aileron ribs and end of the balsa sheet. Are there any tips I could get to do this, it seems that the aileron is approx 2!QUOT! wide by approx 18!QUOT! long and it would be very difficult to get this to be an even product when done. I hope I explained myself enough. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Pat
Posted on: 11/16/2004 10:34 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2351227

Pacticing Autorotation on Sim
Hello all, I don't have a heli yet, but fly RC planes, and plan to get a Raptor 50 this winter. I've been practicing flying on the G2 Sim and had a question. I've been practicing emergency landings I believe it's called autorotation, and I do pretty well at high altitudes when coming in. The problem I seem to have is at lower altitudes any where from approx 5 to 30 feet, its seems I don't have enough rotor speed to use ground effects. Will this happen on a real RC heli or is it only on the Sim or am I doing something wrong. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Pat
Posted on: 11/24/2003 12:19 PM by Author "PDF" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1302023

RE: Bordem? How long for you?
Hi there Sincraft, I also am a beginner and this was my first season at flying R/C planes. I also built the CG Eagle II trainer. I flew on the G2 sim for the entire winter prior to my flying last spring, so fortunately I picked up flying faster. I still remember the first time my instructor gave me the controls ( what a adreline rush ), I also remember that I had to hand him over the controls once because I was trembling and felt weak due to so much concentration. I went thru 6 gallons of fuel in that trainer in 4 months ( I couldn't get enough flying in ) I would dedicate once a week just to practice lands, I'd have that plane landing like a scale plane, I would not except anything less. I'd practice figure eights, tail spins, stalls, inside and outside loops, knife edges ( at a severe sink rate ) and my favorite, flying inverted figure eights. After all these months of flying with no mishaps, I felt I had this flying hobby mastered. I took my plane up again and I was doing my regular flying routines when I was saying to myself this is to easy now, there's no challenge, and was starting to feel a little bored. Then there I was flying that trainer inverted like I thought I was flying my Cap 232 on the Sim when low and behold I was coming in inverted too low and had a brain cramp and just couldn't pull out of it and I heard that crunch of balsa. That sound and feeling I had at that moment was sickening. That accident took the wind right out of my sails! I haven't flown since, I couldn't believe how disappointed I was in myself. I know at least for myself that bordom and challenge come hand in hand. If I don't have a challenge I get bored and lose my interest in anything. With this hobby you have the oppurtunity to challenge yourself to the limits, you can fly your trainer in circles and land, or you can fly turbine powered jets at over 200 MPH. I happened to go to the TOC in Vegas last month (Oct) and was able to see world class pilots like Chip Hyde and Jason Shulman, to see a event like that will give anyone motivation. You will also realize as a beginner pilot that the stunts these guys pull off make it look so easy and you will need years of practice even to come close. Your only flying a trainer now, wait till you work your way up to more expensive planes and realize those accidents will cost you substancial money to fix and your now your concentration level just got real high. Look at these guys with beautiful aerobactic planes flying a few feet off the deck inverted, and doing blenders and coming out of it low to the deck. I know that I would like to come close to those skilled pilots and that's what keeps my interest in the hobby (besides I love building kits and seeing it fly) there's a long challenging road in front of you in this hobby,and it's up to you to see how far you can go. Best if luck, Pat
Posted on: 11/23/2003 11:20 AM by Author "PDF" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1299357