RE: OS 60 fp
Was it running fine and then started this problem? You might put a little wire down the airbleed or try flushing it out thoroughly with fuel. Sometimes a TINY piece of whatnot can get down in there and cause funky problems. I'd start with Paul's solution though, put just a bit of fuel in there and see what happens to see if you've got an air leak when fuel is low.
Posted on: 5/19/2013 5:04 PM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11516452

RE: Onboard glow, dummy needs help again
Gray Beard, what makes the glow plug connector in the first picture a "permanent" installation. With a regular glow plug ignitor, it seems like it doesn't want to come off when I want it to and when I want it to stay on, it wants to fall off..... How would that plug stay on inside a cowl or somewhere you couldn't get to it? Surely, with my luck, that thing would pop right off. I like your system, though, very clean!
Posted on: 5/17/2013 4:03 PM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514622

RE: need instructor in Northeast Alabama
You made your first successful landing Saturday and you crashed Sunday while flying inverted? Go ahead brother! You da man! :)
Posted on: 5/15/2013 4:14 PM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11512581

RE: Trademark Request..... it's just s a joke people!
[quote]ORIGINAL: huck1199 A genius should know how to spell it. [/quote] Not necessarily. Ignorance and intelligence are not related. As I said, it was just a joke in the first place, but if your arrogance makes you feel better, knock yourself out.
Posted on: 9/10/2012 8:44 PM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224551

RE: Trademark Request..... it's just s a joke people!
[quote]ORIGINAL: beepee Now I know that I have significantly cut the cost of my projects by simply not finishing them. Man, I am the real genius. Bedford [/quote] You know, you may be right! And we can use this idea to buy twice as many planes since we're not going to finish them anyway thereby saving on the overall total cost in the budget. We can call it...... The Bedford Theory! Think Mama will buy it?
Posted on: 9/10/2012 5:51 AM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223543

RE: Need a Good Spray Gun
Really? Have you ever purchased anything online? I digress. I apologize for trying to add anything to the conversation.
Posted on: 9/9/2012 8:25 AM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11222721

Trademark Request..... it's just s a joke people!
I hereby trademark the phrase "A finish can cost as much as a beginning." Yes, I'm a genious. :D
Posted on: 9/8/2012 10:04 PM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11222424

RE: Nitro proof paint
[quote]ORIGINAL: check6ii Warbird Colors. The best there is. You wont regret it- [/quote] I do have to say...... I've used Rustoleum successfully but I fly mostly SPADs. They fly GREAT, but they're plastic and they're cheap. I might have a few days in an airframe where a balsa kit might have you a few MONTHS in an airframe. I also do some woodworking and know a couple days of finish can ruin a couple weeks of work. If it's "your baby" I wouldn't try to get by on the cheap on the covering or the finish.... you'll be disappointed. I'm one of those who likes to get by on "the cheap" not because I'm cheap, but because I like trying out "new stuff" which is one of the reason I like flying SPADs. But I wouldn't recommend trying to get by on "the cheap" when you've put a bunch of time into "your baby"..... I'm just sayin'. :) Use Warbird Colors, or some type of urethane, or some auto finish or whatever. ESPECIALLY if it's your first, or if you're the nervous type, or you don't like experimenting or whatever. "A finish can cost as much as a beginning." But it's worth it, because it's all part of the process if that's your thing. And yes, I just made that up, and yes, I probably should TM that. :D
Posted on: 9/8/2012 10:00 PM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11222422

RE: Nitro proof paint
[quote]ORIGINAL: jefflangton So will the flat protective enamels be nitro resistant too? Thanks for all the info guys, much appreciated! [/quote] I don't think so..... it's only the GLOSS, but I can't say for sure. Everything I've ever seen has said only the GLOSS and that's all I've ever used and they have worked ok for me.
Posted on: 9/8/2012 9:50 PM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11222418

RE: Nitro proof paint
[quote]ORIGINAL: Chad Veich I have found a few select colors of Rustoleum that seem to be resistant to nitro fuels up to about 15% but not all of them by any stretch. Particularly the metallic colors are definitely not! (Ask me how I know.) [/quote] Correct. The metallics have never been "nitro fuel proof". To my knowledge, these are the only ones that are nitro proof: http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=24 I have also used the Walmart brand paint and a couple others..... basically, if they're the gloss enamels, they work well if you give them a couple weeks to cure. Any of the "for plastic" paints or anything other than the stinky old gloss oil enamels won't work.
Posted on: 9/8/2012 4:11 PM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11222109

RE: Nitro proof paint
[quote]ORIGINAL: irocbsa I think it is a common misconception that Rustoleum is nitro proof. In it's modern form it definitely is not, at least not to 15% nitro fuel which is what a lot of us use. From what I understand, in it's heyday Rustoleum was quite fuel proof but then Big Brother madated the elimination of most of the VOCs that were in spray paint so now it is just as un-nitro-proof as the rest of the off the shelf brands. [/quote] Not unless they've changed it in the last couple years. I use gloss Rustoleum on my plastic SPADs and it holds up well with no top coat. I think maybe the problem is there are several *types* of Rustoleum now and folks aren't getting the right thing. But maybe it's changed recently and the paint I have is still the old forumla. :)
Posted on: 9/8/2012 4:04 PM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11222099

RE: Need a Good Spray Gun
A ratings system. You know like, "I bought this piece of junk and it fell apart on me" or "this gun is not adjustable" or whatever. I give it 3 stars or 5 stars. Most online vendors have a ratings system and while that is certainly not the only thing I look at, if something has 2 stars and nothing but complaints listed about it, I'm not going to buy it.
Posted on: 9/8/2012 8:07 AM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11221725

RE: Need a Good Spray Gun
Grizzly has a pretty good selection of spray guns, but doesn't appear they have a "rating" system which I kind of like to see before purchase. [:@] http://www.grizzly.com/search/search.aspx?q=spray%20guns&cachebuster=7500157190952450&page=1
Posted on: 9/7/2012 10:00 AM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220762

RE: Dope cover question
So if you go to Walmart and get something like the polyester or nylon dress liner, do you use the taughtening or non-taughtening dope? Randolph has both the nitrate and the butyrate dope in the taughtening and the non-taughtening. Randolph's page has dope to use on Ceconite which is 100% polyester and it says it's "non-taughtening" so does that mean if we use polyester from Walmart, we should use the non-taughtening and if so, how do we get it to shrink. I'm so confused! LOL
Posted on: 9/7/2012 9:41 AM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220746

RE: Sig Ryan STA
[quote]ORIGINAL: VincentJ . it's proving to be quite a challenge to get it to fit just right! [/quote] Looks like you're doing a great job though! Looks real nice.
Posted on: 9/6/2012 7:53 AM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11219441

RE: Sig Ryan STA
Really nice Raptureboy!
Posted on: 9/6/2012 7:52 AM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11219438

RE: SIG Mark II Engine ?
That engine will be fine on your trainer Bill and yes you got a good deal on it NIB. :)
Posted on: 8/26/2012 8:00 AM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11206401

RE: Whats up with kits?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Gray Beard One problem with laser cutters or kit cutters in the past has been when you buy plans and send them in to be cut if there were mistakes on the plans {Like that would ever happen??} would be cut too. Some of the cutters have plans that they have straightened out so they are correct but if you buy a set of plans by someone like MAN you will be buying a lot of mistakes if you send them to a cutter! [/quote] How do you check the plans to make sure they are straight and to the correct scale Gray Beard? There are several plans I want to take a crack at scratchbuilding, but I would have no idea as to whether the plans were accurate or not until I ran into my first problem of something not fitting correctly. I did a search, but didn't really find anything not knowing what to look for. I think a "how to" or tutorial on verifying plans would make a great sticky somewhere! :)
Posted on: 8/25/2012 9:28 AM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11205528

RE: Whats up with kits?
Please don't turn this into a political discussion. We have plenty of that everywhere else in our lives.
Posted on: 8/25/2012 9:25 AM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11205524

RE: SIG Mark II Engine ?
I think he's already gone with a TT GP42. :)
Posted on: 8/24/2012 8:36 AM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11204464

RE: o.s 10. Am i in the right place? kit help.
Nice choice Scotty! Too bad the shipping was almost as much as the plane itself! :(
Posted on: 8/24/2012 8:35 AM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11204463

RE: SIG Mark II Engine ?
I agree with EC121 on the "power beyond its specs" Bill. I've never owned one of the TT GP series, but I've always heard that the GP-42 is a real stump puller. That'll power your Kadet just fine and you will get many years of service out of it. I think this may be a better manual link Carrellh: http://mms.tiger.tw/upload/2007-1-30/20071308357.pdf Your link only goes to the .28 but it's probably all the same info. The guys at the field can help you Bill when you reach that point. Oh and as for your original post Bill..... I love the OS FP & LA lines. They're easy for someone like me (not an engine guru) to tune and they run forever with a lot of abuse. Disclaimer: Not recommending abuse. :) If you're buying one, go with the .46 because the .40's are discontinued like was mentioned. I've flown a 6 1/2 pound plastic SPAD trainer with a .40LA and aside from a pretty long takeoff run, it flew just fine once in the air. Don't know how much vertical you're going to get out of it, but it flies fine. :) I agree that you're going to get more power out of a ball bearing engine but I've bought a ton of OS FP & LA bushed engines off the internet really cheap and build my planes to somewhat fit the engines because a lot of people say "you're going to get a lot more power out of a ball bearing engine" and sell their perfectly good bushed engines cheap. ;) Have fun!
Posted on: 8/23/2012 11:48 PM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11204186

RE: Whats up with kits?
How about the companies doing short kits? Are those a good option? I know "back in the day" it was very expensive to have dies made to cut out kits, but with laser cutters now, can you just pull in a plan, convert it to a CAD drawing and a laser cutter cut it out? I don't mean violate copyright laws, but maybe sooner or later as laser cutters come down, more kits will become available at a cheaper price even if they're just short kits. I hope so because I ordered my first kit last week and I hope to be ordering them for a while. :)
Posted on: 8/23/2012 10:47 PM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11204162

RE: SPAD Debonair questions
RCG is RCGroups.com. Lots of good info on there too. The Perry show is in March: http://www.gamarc.com/georgia.html It is a HUGE swap meet with lots of vendors and lots of guys trying to sell or swap their stuff. It takes up three buildings at the fair grounds down there. That's a good combo for fighting flutter in the ailerons. That should pretty much take care of it. Good price on the coro too. I was paying $12 a sheet for 4mm up in Newnan, but I haven't bought any in over a year probably. I haven't been building much lately, but hope to get back at it soon.
Posted on: 8/23/2012 8:43 PM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "S.P.A.D. Aircraft - Coroplast design"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11204095

RE: SPAD Debonair questions
If it's easy for you to get 4mm coro and not the gutterpipe, you can just make fuses out of coro. You can probably find the instructions here, but there's a "how to" over on spadworld.net about building coro fuses. You want a quick and easy build, try an FNS. To me, those are loads of fun. No ailerons and no landing gear so they're a super quick build. Even with no ailerons they're extremely agile and will bite their own tail. :) Looking forward to your pics.
Posted on: 8/22/2012 10:32 PM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "S.P.A.D. Aircraft - Coroplast design"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11202960

RE: SPAD Debonair questions
Oh and BTW, on your next build, just build one until you see if you like it...... "bad crashes" are a "relative term" when flying SPADs.... they take being dumped a WHOLE lot better than balsa planes. [:D]
Posted on: 8/22/2012 9:50 AM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "S.P.A.D. Aircraft - Coroplast design"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11202181

RE: SPAD Debonair questions
You'll be ok with the wing crease Chuck. It's not the ideal airflow but it'll fly. My first wing was like that and it flies like a dream. Your ASP .61 will be fine also. Lot of engine for that plane, but as long as you balance on the correct CG, you'll be ok. The first engine I had on my Deb was a K&B .65...... talk about HEAVY! LOL It flew fine but the K&B kept dead-sticking on me which eventually lead to a crash totaling my fuse. The wing survived and is still in use today. I've also flown my Deb with an anemic OS40LA..... I had to tape a bunch of lead tire weights on the front to get it to balance. It sure wasn't going to do any aerobatics, but it flew after a LONG take-off run. :) Not sure about the radios..... I hear good things about the Turnigy, but you might have to do some tinkering as in updating firmware, etc. Don't know anything about the others. I use Spektrum radios, but I started out with the HobbyKing 2.4 cheapies and got good service out of them, so I certainly don't have anything against the cheaper radios. Hey, I see you're in GA! You're about 2 hours from me. Have you been on Spadworld.net? Here, there & RCG, you can get great advice on all three sites. SW is the best for SPAD info if you don't mind a little orneriness. :) Have you ever been to the R/C trade show down in Perry? Wow, talk about R/C heaven! Oh yeah, with the ASP .61, make sure you stick some bamboo or dowels in the flutes of your control surfaces to stiffen them up and keep it throttled back. If you go wide open make sure you keep a close ear out for "flutter".... That's when the control surfaces (or any surface for that matter) vibrate back and forth due to high air flow over them causing a low, somewhat of a moaning or buzzing sound. That can rip a plane apart in a hurry and is what to be careful of when flying a larger motor. Good luck with it and keep us up to date! We're big fans of photos & videos too. [:D] Pat
Posted on: 8/22/2012 9:48 AM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum "S.P.A.D. Aircraft - Coroplast design"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11202176

RE: o.s 10. Am i in the right place? kit help.
Yeah, if you want to build a plane in a couple nights and have a lot of fun I would agree with Aspeed..... I prefer the FNS though..... goofy plane. [:D] They'll both bite their own tails. Build one out of foam..... you won't have to worry about your fuel eating the foam, it probably won't last that long. [:D] But when you're through you'll look like that dude back there <<<<<<
Posted on: 8/21/2012 11:01 PM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201740

RE: o.s 10. Am i in the right place? kit help.
Also, great places to look are http://outerzone.co.uk/ and http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_plans/index.php. There's got to be a ton of hobby places in Australia though. There are many RCU & RCG users from Australia so you would think there would be plenty of hobby shops available. Of course, they may just get their stuff from the U.S. or China and add in the shipping so it's either/or I guess. :)
Posted on: 8/21/2012 6:48 AM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200757

RE: o.s 10. Am i in the right place? kit help.
I see a lot of folks recommend the Laser Stick & Spacewalker from House of Balsa...... don't know if you can find a source in Australia for them though, you might have to order them: http://www.houseofbalsa.com/store/store-kits.html?sid=0001pGakFEDsAVcWw09k3R9 Welcome back! :)
Posted on: 8/20/2012 8:04 PM by Author "PatrickCurry" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200408