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Schumacher Manic brushless conversion
Hi guys, I'd like some advice please on a conversion that I'm planning; I intend to convert my Manic from its twin .36 to a brushless system. I've just done a brushless conversion on a nitro Kyosho Blizzard with a 540 3030KV brushless motor, 60 amp ESC and 5000mAH 2S Lipo. I'm assuming that a conversion for an 1/8 scale truck is going to require something a bit bigger than a 1/12 light crawler, so I'm after advice on what motor (size and turn) I should get, preferably as a motor/ESC combo. I'm also having difficulty trying to find compatible pinions to go with the existing spur; as standard it's a 63 tooth 24dp spur on a 5mm layshaft. I was open to the idea of getting a different spur if needed to 48dp to give me more ratio options, but having taken it off the layshaft it appears that the layshaft pin AND brake hub sit inside it, and I'm not sure if the pin recess on a standard aftermarket spur would be deep enough to accommodate both. I could ditch the braking system if needs to be rely on motor braking, but I'd rather keep it because of the front/rear adjustability and obviously to extend the run times because the brake servos run off the receiver battery and not the LiPo, so if anyone knows of manufacturers that make 24dp spurs for motors, that would be a great help. My last question is about running 3S LiPo's or higher through an ESC; I've been told that you can't usually use the standard cooling fan with anything higher than 2S. Is this true and if so, what do you do for cooling; are there higher voltage fans that you can fit? Sorry for all the questions but I'm still a relative brushless newbie; my last conversion was made a hell of a lot easier because the Blizzard came in nitro and brushed form; I just got the parts for the brushed motor version like the chassis and transmission, and then specced my own motor & ESC. Thanks for any help you can give me.
Posted on: 9/8/2012 2:20 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11222010
RE: Schumacher's Newest Rc - Manic
Thanks guys. I completely forgot about measuring the shaft diameter; massive brain-fart. I'll contact Schumacher only if I start to struggle; I dont like the rear motor placement on the concept e-Manic though. I think it would be much better for the C of G and weight distribution if the motor was lower in the chassis and further forward; thinking specifically of the space vacated by the engine. It should be easy enough then to lay a battery in the space vacated by the fuel tank and then just think about ESC placement.
Posted on: 9/7/2012 11:06 AM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "Schumacher Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220832
RE: Schumacher's Newest Rc - Manic
Hi guys; after a bit of advice. I'm planning on doing a LiPo Brushless conversion on my Manic, I have just done a similar conversion on my Kyosho Blizzard, but obviously a 4wd monster is going to require a different motor and battery combo to a 1/12 crawler. I just need to know what size motor (540/550 etc) would be suitable, what kV etc would be suitable for a monster. I've had a look at the Velineon and Flux systems to try and get an idea but I'm still not sure. Also, does anyone know if the Manic (or Havoc) will accept other spur gears; I can't find any matches for 24dp pinion gears apart from the ones for the nitro version and they don't seem like they would mount onto a brushless motor unless there is any kind of adaptor? If anyone can give me some pointers that would be brilliant.
Posted on: 9/2/2012 2:11 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "Schumacher Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11214757
RE: LB Getting Ready for SNOW - Kyosho EP Blizzard DF-300 Thread!
I've got everything set in the chassis where I want it now, the last thing I need to buy for it is a suitable motor pinion. How do I work out how many teeth I should be running? I have a 3030kV motor (roughly 13 turn), 5000maH 2S LiPo. Please can someone help?
Posted on: 8/15/2012 4:34 AM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11194124
RE: LB Getting Ready for SNOW - Kyosho EP Blizzard DF-300 Thread!
Ok, so I've got all the parts now to do the conversion but I have a couple of questions; due to lack of space on the top plate, can I mount the ESC on the underside of it? Does this mean it will not be ventilated properly? Also, do these things have to be run with the cooling fan fitted? The reason I ask these things is because the ESC sits so high that the only place I can mount it is in the cab area (not much space due to the battery, motor and steering linkages) or the chassis underside. If I mount it behind the steering servo it won't fit under the body unless I remove the cooling fan. Don't know what to do here so any help would be appreciated.
Posted on: 8/5/2012 4:05 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11182051
RE: LB Getting Ready for SNOW - Kyosho EP Blizzard DF-300 Thread!
Thank you very much for that Barney! I've ordered the part now, what with it being Sunday I guess I'll have to wait until tomorrow to see if they are ok with shipping to the UK. If they are not, I'd be grateful to take you up on your offer. [8D] Thanks again for your help.
Posted on: 7/15/2012 9:35 AM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11155999
RE: LB Getting Ready for SNOW - Kyosho EP Blizzard DF-300 Thread!
I used M3 x 25mm bolts to add the new brake pads on my mod. They are only slightly longer than the stock ones but they are all that you need to accommodate wider pads. I didn't use the MP777 pads because I couldn't get hold of them over here in the UK, but I found out that the Hobao Hyper 9 pads are an almost perfect fit. I got a set of the yellow performance pads, all I had to do was sand the inner edges by a millimetre or so with a Dremel so that they sit freely around the disk hub. I don't suppose you know where I could get hold of the BL31 chassis plate, preferably somewhere that would ship to the UK and accepts Paypal? There is only one place in the UK that I could find that stocked it, but I have been let down by them after ordering it over 8 weeks ago; they promised me as recently as Monday that it was "in the mail" and the delay was due to "computer problems". All of a sudden they e-mailed me this morning to refund me because they don't know when they will receive stock. I'm really pissed off about it because I have got the motor, ESC, and all the other chassis parts here just waiting for something to mount them to.
Posted on: 7/14/2012 2:03 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11155203
RE: New Exceed SP -03018
I doubt you'll get a response; this thread was dead for 4 years before you resurrected it, and the people in this thread haven't logged on for 2-4 years either...
Posted on: 7/14/2012 12:33 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "Exceed RC Support - Nitro Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11155117
RE: 57cc Twin cylinder with Beetle exo cage
Your build looks absolutely brilliant mate. Speaking of home-made cages, I've not seen Stiggwelder churning out any for a while now on here, does anyone know if he is still active?
Posted on: 7/6/2012 5:08 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11145834
RE: smartech 1:5 scale gas truck - problem starting
The wheels moving in opposite directions if you spin them whilst the truck is off the floor is perfectly normal; this is caused by the gearing in the differential. It will be more noticable though if your brakes are on. If you have everything switched off, engine not running, turn your radio gear on and push and keep the throttle stick held forward; it will let the brakes off and you should be able to free-wheel it across the floor. If it doesn't, you may have drag-braking which means that your throttle and brake linkages are not set up properly. If you check this though you will need to make sure that you return it to the normal/idle position before starting the engine again; unless you switch your radio gear on first you will be starting with an open throttle and you will either injure yourself, others around you, or it will take off and go hell-bent for the horizon until it hits something or runs out of fuel...
Posted on: 6/9/2012 5:19 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11112664
RE: LB Getting Ready for SNOW - Kyosho EP Blizzard DF-300 Thread!
Right, I think I've finally got my head around this!!! I'm looking at this kind of ESC/motor combo: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INIX-60A-13T-Brushless-burstenlosen-ESC-Motor-Moteur-COMBO-sensorless-RC-CAR-/170847290389?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item27c74ac415 And from what you told me earlier, to run it I would need a LiPo something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turnigy-3000mAh-3S-20C-30C-bursts-Lipo-Pack-UK-SALE-/180861397327?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item2a1c2de94f Or should I be looking at higher mAh like a 3300 or 5000 or so? Sorry for all the questions.
Posted on: 5/24/2012 3:40 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093550
RE: LB Getting Ready for SNOW - Kyosho EP Blizzard DF-300 Thread!
Actually, don't worry about it, I think I've got my head around how batteries should be chosen for an ESC; if the Ah rating of the battery is lower than the ESC, you damage the battery right? What I don't understand is how you choose a motor to pair to an ESC, and how you know that that ESC/motor combination is the right one for your application?
Posted on: 5/24/2012 2:07 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093439
RE: LB Getting Ready for SNOW - Kyosho EP Blizzard DF-300 Thread!
Thanks. My basic understanding of motors it the higher the turn, the better the torque, but the lower the top speed and power consumption. Is this right? I don't understand this bit of what you said though; "more than enough output for the 60A esc (25x 5000 = 125000mAh =125Ah, so plenty over 60Ah)". Does this mean that at 125Ah you are putting more through the ESC than it is designed for, or is the 60Ah the minimum?
Posted on: 5/24/2012 1:55 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093419
RE: LB Getting Ready for SNOW - Kyosho EP Blizzard DF-300 Thread!
Thanks for the info mate; looking on e-Bay though, there are 25A, 35A and 60A versions, please can you tell me which one you are running? Also, can you tell me what turn motor you are running and what ampage and cell LiPo you are using? Like I said, I really don't know a lot about brushless and I have no idea what is compatible with what... What about this? - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hobbywing-EZrun-Brushless-1-10-Car-Motor-Combo-B2-9T-4300KV-35A-ESC-EZcomboB2-/251029638342?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3a72884cc6
Posted on: 5/24/2012 10:49 AM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093186
RE: Insane 1/5 scales with Big Blocks in them!!
If you're getting an FG on-road and you're on unlimited budget from your lady, why don't you try out the big BZM...? [;)] (Sorry; this was aimed at Nitro, not Narwhal!)
Posted on: 5/23/2012 2:28 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11092104
RE: LB Getting Ready for SNOW - Kyosho EP Blizzard DF-300 Thread!
Ok, so after a full service and rebuild, plus changing the bushes to a mixture of rubber-seal (wheels) and ceramic bearings (gearbox, diff casing and clutchbell), a 30k weight silicone into the diff, and a brand new Kyosho engine, I'm still completely underwhelmed by the performance of my Blizzard. I've now managed to track down and order the chassis, drive shaft, motor mounts, plastic parts and brake arms to do the conversion from nitro to elastic-trickery. I would like some pointers though from the guys that have done brushless and LiPo upgrades/mods towards a good combination of motor/battery/ESC. I'm not hugely experienced with LiPo and brushless in general (I've killed 2 different 2200mAH 4S LiPo's on my hovercraft, each on their first run because of a crap, cheap ESC that came in the kit) so for the ESC I definitely need something with low voltage cut-off or alarm. Obviously, waterproof and reverse are a must, I don't know if any other functions/features are desirable so again I would be grateful for pointers. Some ideas for a battery (cell number, C rating etc.) would be great too. I've tried looking online but with all the different choices available, I honestly don't know where to start. Also, what pads have people been using in their brake upgrades? I'm not impressed with the 30k diff weight as it still doesn't track perfectly straight and the steering lacks modulation, but if I clean it out to go 50 or 100k weight then I'm going to need some pads which are going to give me some proper bite. I'm sure I remember some people saying that they used Kyosho MP777 pads, but I don't think they are available in the UK any more from looking online. Are there any alternatives I can use instead? Sorry for all the questions, but I want to do a proper job with this upgrade and not go into it half-ars*d. I'll try and stick up some photos of the conversion too stage-by-stage if anyone out there is thinking about doing it. Thanks!!!
Posted on: 5/23/2012 2:14 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11092088
RE: Manifold studs?
Brilliant mate; thanks for the advice, I'll get some M5 long bolts or thread. No; I'd heard that you could get studs that were like grub screws, that could be installed (and removed if needed) with an Allen Key. Didn't think of doing it the way you suggested, but that makes perfect sense. Thanks again.
Posted on: 2/5/2012 3:42 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10945524
Manifold studs?
I've heard that you can swap the standard Allen bolts on Zenoah's/CY exhaust manifolds for a stud and nut system instead. Is this true, and where would I find a kit? Google has brought me a dozen useless matches...
Posted on: 2/5/2012 12:10 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10945285
RE: New HPI 1/8 Gassers
It was the last thing on my mind, believe me! Throttle was glitching, all four wheels spinning under power, bodyshell still attached so I couldn't get to the killswitch. The exhaust was all I could get to! Not something I plan on doing again in a hurry...
Posted on: 2/5/2012 11:44 AM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10945226
RE: New HPI 1/8 Gassers
Can't see that method working as well as it would in a nitro. I think that pinching the fuel feed pipe will take too long and will make it run too lean for too long (risking damage), and I've tried closing off the pipe on my 1/5 scale when I couldn't get to the killswitch - not anything I'd recommend; took too long and really badly burnt me. It's much better and quicker to interrupt the ignition current IMO.
Posted on: 2/5/2012 6:20 AM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10944732
RE: New HPI 1/8 Gassers
How are you supposed to stop the engine? I'm yet to see anything that looks remotely like a killswitch in any of the pictures...
Posted on: 2/5/2012 6:03 AM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10944697
RE: 5t tube chassis 4wd
Question - that frame looks very enclosed; how do you get the engine in and out?
Posted on: 12/18/2011 3:02 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10865437
RE: Tires for my Menace
Allegedly, any 2.2 tire should fit. I've heard that Jato tires fit the Menace rims, but honestly, I've never tried it with my own Menace...
Posted on: 12/3/2011 4:41 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "Schumacher Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10841863
RE: schumacher manic
They are great; I've got one here in the UK but I've heard that since Schumacher closed their American branch HQ in Florida, parts are more difficult to get hold of. I don't know how true that is though. If, however, you've got an LHS that orders or holds spares then I wouldn't worry. The servo horn for the steering will need upgrading to an alloy one probably; mine came from the factory stripped, and the first (plastic) replacement lasted less than one run. I don't know why; there is nothing at all wrong with the servo saver and at the time it was being run-in (on-road). Using an alloy one is fine though. You'll probably want to upgrade the radio gear to a 2.4 system at some point too; they only come RTR and the factory 27mHz gear isn't anything to write home about. They are awesome fun though; tough, brilliant handling, powerful. There are some good vid's on Youtube if you want to see what they are like properly tuned and thrashed...
Posted on: 8/15/2011 2:44 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10672241
Rip-off much?!
Just been looking on e-Bay for a couple of spares and came across this, I could NOT believe what the asking price is. This guy must be having the most almighty brain-fart ever if he's asking THAT for a 1/10 nitro: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Remote-Control-Nitro-RC-Monster-Truck-RC-Truck-Petrol-/200585687358?_trksid=p4340.m8&_trkparms=algo%3DMW%26its%3DC%26itu%3DUCC%26otn%3D6%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D2086672394847193177&_qi=RTM925184 Has anyone else even HEARD of these?
Posted on: 8/15/2011 2:28 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10672219
RE: Ugliest recent model car
Not really new but one of Europe's worst ever offerings. So fugly that it makes my teeth itch: http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=fiat+multipla&hl=en&biw=1366&bih=533&gbv=2&tbm=isch&tbnid=_EW6USUOtFXWTM:&imgrefurl=http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sport/football/article-1154102/Pizza-mafia-Sophia-Loren-love-hate-Italy.html&docid=aEC03D_S_EoeBM&w=468&h=286&ei=aF84TuOhEcSDhQfGwqn_AQ&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=156&page=1&tbnh=89&tbnw=145&start=0&ndsp=21&ved=1t:429,r:12,s:0&tx=80&ty=62 And this hateful piece of faecal matter: http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/carreviews/newreviews/207337/ssangyong_rodius.html
Posted on: 8/2/2011 1:36 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "Off Topic Forum - Cars, Trucks, Buggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10651721
RE: 1:5 Skyline Needs an Upgrade!!
[quote]ORIGINAL: Sherv [quote]ORIGINAL: MadManAndrew [quote]ORIGINAL: Paul1981 You'd actually be better off posting this in the [i]''Toy-Grade'' section[/i] than the electric section; those guys specialise in adapting the toy-grade stuff that you can't get spares for readily. [/quote] Either I'm blind, or we don't have one[&:]. [/quote] http
Posted on: 8/1/2011 2:36 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10649870
RE: 1:5 Skyline Needs an Upgrade!!
You'd actually be better off posting this in the "Toy-Grade" section than the electric section; those guys specialise in adapting the toy-grade stuff that you can't get spares for readily. They should be able to advise you what to upgrade with, and how to do it whilst still keeping it usable. It's not just as simple as just a motor-swap; there is no point going from C-size Duracells and brushed motors to Lipo batteries and brushless motors if you can't get the power down; the suspension on toy-grade cars is usually the most basic (crap) design and if they DO have anything more advanced than flex plates, any shocks will usually be undamped. Add to this a more powerful motor and you will simply make it wheelspin like mad and handle like garbage. The tyres are also usually designed to be hard-wearing not grippy, you'll probably shred them with a brushless motor. You'll also have to take balance into account which will change with a different motor and batteries. Sounds like a good project though; keep on with it and let us know how you get on.
Posted on: 7/31/2011 4:11 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10648258
RE: In desperate need of a LiPo idiot's guide
Thank you very much guver. I'm still a bit unsure of a couple of things; 1. If you say that the battery should be not allowed to drop lower than 3.5v per cell, is there anyway to know this without connecting it to a charger or something? Waiting for a drop in performance has led to two consecutive wrecked batteries. Should I be getting some kind of warning from the ESC? (I suppose I should say at this point that the ESC is the supplied kit one, and it looks cheaper and nastier than anything I've ever seen on an RTR vehicle, or aftermarket. Is it worth upgrading do you think?) 2. Do you check balance just by connecting it to the charger? Should it be done after every run? 3. There doesn't seem to be any guidance from the manufacturer on the battery charging rate; there was no supporting paperwork with it and the only things annotated on the battery are that it is a 4 cell 14.8v, 20C series. It's a Zippy Lightmax 2200 that came ready-soldered with a Deans connector, and that really is all I can tell you about it. Is there a rule of thumb about charging rates? I'm sorry for all the questions; I've spent the last 11 years with nitro and petrol/gas, the last time I had electrics it was still mostly NiMH/NiCad and it seems that LiPo is a hugely different animal to get to grips with. [:D]
Posted on: 7/4/2011 2:55 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10605851
In desperate need of a LiPo idiot's guide
I'm hoping that some kind soul on here will take pity on me and my complete failure to get a grasp of LiPo battery use and care. I have a kit-built brushless hovercraft (recommended 3S/4S compatability) and I have now seemingly wrecked my second 4S pack, each of them after just a single use. I need to know what I am doing wrong before I waste another £50+ destroying a third one through ignorance. Admittedly, I initially cheaped-out and bought the cheapest LiPo charger I could find; it had no additional features apart from basic charging, 2S/3S recognition with manual select for 4S. After the first (less than five minute) run of the hovercraft, the battery started to fade, I tried to charge it but I got a low-voltage warning and the charger refused to start the charging cycle. I was advised by my LHS that the battery was screwed, and also that I should get a better charger and also a balancer, or a combined one. I bought an Imax B6, then bought a new 4S, fitted it to the hovercraft, got one (short) use out of it, and now I'm in the same situation; low voltage warning and no charge cycle allowed. What am I doing wrong here? I would be really grateful for the answers to the following: 1. Should I be charging or checking a LiPo battery on delivery, before its first use? 2. How should I know when I need to charge a LiPo, preferably before the voltage drops so low that the battery is permanently damaged? 3. Is it necessary to balance-charge if there are fast-charge and standard-charge features? 4. What ampage should I be charging at for a 4S? 5. How should I be storing the battery between uses, charged, partially-charged? 6. Is there anything else I need to know that I haven't questioned? Grateful for any help, thanks...
Posted on: 7/4/2011 2:08 PM by Author "Paul1981"
in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10605807
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