RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
See post 936 higher up the page (13 above your post) for contact details of the designer.
Posted on: 4/22/2012 11:30 PM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11053092

RE: The Usual Cooling Issue
I am not sure that the air scoops will keep the air flow in the cylinder, the Weston UK site has some pictures of the recomended air scoop and this shows how th4e air is forced to flow through the fins as the side plates capture the whole engine. [link=http://www.westonuk.co.uk/westonuk2_036.htm]WestonUK RCV page[/link] On yours do the side plates but right up to the engine fins, if they do not then the air can escape around the outside of the fins. Additionally, if the end of the surve does not fit well against the fins then the air can escape backwards. Finally, with the V formation some of the air could short circuit out of the top of the fins, I would consider a blanking plate between the two air scoops to prevent this. I have a pair of RCV60SPs in my Mosquito (I know it is not radial cowl but it is another example), I go in through the scale air scoop on the cowl chin, have a curved air scoop with side plates that fit closely to the fins so all the air flows upwards through the fins, it then turns around in the top of the cowl and goes down around the crankcase, some of it spills out around the scale exhaust slots and some carries on down around the WestonUK in cowl silencer and through a slots by the model exhausts. This works well and as the Mossie is 18-19lbs in flying condition the engines have to work hard. The photos show 1. The air scoops in the cowl along with the mounts for the exhaust stacks 2. The cowls in place showing the tight fit between the fins and the air scoops so all incoming air has to flow through the fins 3. The air inlet into the scoop in the cowl chin 4. The air outlets at the back of the exhaust stacks which are by the side of the crankcase, as these holes are at the bottom of the exhaust stack the air has to flow through the fins and past the crankcase before exiting 5. The slots in the bottom of the cowl to ensure some air flows over the in cowl exhuast. 6. Shows the engine in the cowl without the scoop showing the in cowl exhausts. Peter.
Posted on: 4/10/2012 1:50 PM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "RCV Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11036461

RE: DeHavilland Mosquito
failed to register new post
Posted on: 3/29/2012 4:21 AM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11019590

RE: DeHavilland Mosquito
Thought I would drop in a few pictures of by recently completed Brian Taylor 81" Mossie that has now completed 4 flights. I have a build log on RC Scale Builder ([link=http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14905&PN=1&TPN=18]Peterf's 81" Brian Taylor Mosquito... with large wing overs. There is also some video on Youtube ([link=http://youtu.be/vphQ8nWeyfI]Peterf's
Posted on: 3/29/2012 4:19 AM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11018262

RE: Brian Taylor 81
Well, many months after replying to this question I have finally made the maiden flight with my BT Mosquito with 2 x RCV60SP engines. Details can be found on RCScaleBuilder [link=http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14905&PN=1&TPN=16]Peterfs 81" Mosquito build log[/link] In summary, the model weighs 17 lbs 12 oz dry and fueled up 18 lbs 14oz. The engines are RCV60SP and they are from about 2001 - they have been sat around for a long time before being used. They have the Weston UK in cowl silencers. I made the maiden flight with the 16x12 APC 2 blade propellors running up to about 5,300rpm on the ground and there was a lot of thrust, top speed was good but a bit down on expectations. Next flight will be with 15x14 APC 2 blade props to see if I can alter the balance between thrust and speed. The take off run had plenty of acceleration so I have some margin for lower thrust. I was always a little concerned but people have quoted 9lb planes being flown well on an RCV60SP so I kept these in my model even when I had some doubts and it has paid off, they are completely hidden in the cowls.
Posted on: 2/26/2012 9:10 AM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "RCV Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10976612

RE: Brian Taylor 81
=2]Peterf's 81" Brian Taylor Mosquito Build Log[/link] Peter.
Posted on: 10/29/2010 3:53 PM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "RCV Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10102770

RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
[quote]ORIGINAL: eldher13 [b]TWINSYNC GLOW DRIVER FIRE[/b] I was just chaging the battery attached to my twinsync glow driver and the glow driver caught fire! The polarity was set correctly and also the current and voltage settings. I have had this setup working for a year and charged it at least 20 times. It just went POOF! Any ideas what could have gone wrong? or better yet, how to keep it from happening again? [/quote] Was the battery still connected to the glow driver when charged. I am sure I recall seeing advice that the battery should be disconnected because the charger could give rise to a higher voltage than the glow driver rating under certain circumstances. I found an earlier reply covering this where someone had asked Bill this question, here is his reply [i]I e-mail Bill and ask about charging the battery while it was still connected to the glow driver and this was his reply [b][color=#FF0000]You can charge with it connected BUT ONLY a DC Voltage Trickle charge. You can not charge it with a Fast, rapid, or pulse charger while connected.[/color][/b] [/i] See [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4700596/anchors_8022924/mpage_25/key_/anchor/tm.htm#8022924]Charging reply[/link] Hopefully this may be useful.
Posted on: 5/5/2010 1:48 PM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9712548

RE: rcv120 sp
Have you tried the recommended fuel which is 10% nitro and 15% oil, old guidance was oil should have small castor content but now full synthetics seem to have been approved. I was talking to owber of local model shop few days ago and he said the only problems he sees with customers and RVC engines is when the wrong fuel is used. He said they are fairly critical and the recommended fuel should be stuck to. Another thought, the cylinder has not been rotated on the crankcase has it to alter relative direction of ports and starter as the timing could be slightly off - bet then would not run when it did light.
Posted on: 4/24/2010 2:32 AM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "RCV Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9684609

RE: 120 SP 4 blade prop size.
The RCV recomended 4 blade prop for SP-120 is 15.5 x 12.
Posted on: 10/16/2009 1:35 AM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "RCV Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9177230

New Graupner 3 blade props
Graupner have got some new 3 blade props that I have only recently found. See [link=https://shop.graupner.de/webuerp/servlet/AA?wgr=4212]Graupner props[/link] with some handy sizes such as 16" x 10" (40cm x 25cm), 16" x 12" (40cm x 30cm) and 18" x 12" (45cm x 30cm). They also have some even larger carbon props at higher prices. I was wondering if anybody has tried any of these as they would seem to be ideal for the SP range of engines, or if RCV would test them to check rpm ranges etc as it would be good if the range of recommended props could be increased. APC seem to be reducing the range of their mutli bladed props at the moment.
Posted on: 5/12/2009 2:25 PM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "RCV Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8762904

RE: RCV 60 SP sat unrun for many years - what to do before running
Stripped the run in engine down - had only turned it over by hand. Fine inside, no rust and bearings did not appear corroded. However, the engine was quite dry so cleaned and lubed it. Afterwards it turned over smoothly, I guess the roughness was dried gum in the bearings. The unrun engine was pristine inside still with original oil in there from manufacture. I was hoping for some reply from RCV re the age of the engine and what it might be useful to do in terms of replacing any seals etc.
Posted on: 5/10/2009 2:23 PM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "RCV Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8757027

RCV 60 SP sat unrun for many years - what to do before running
I have bought an unstarted Brian Taylor Mosquito kit that someone had sitting around for 10 years (the retract cylinders are dated June 98) and finally decided they would not build. Nearly everything was provided including 2 RCV 60SP engines, which I think will be great in this twin engined plane and thinking about some 3 blade props. As the kit has sat around for many years I am trying to find out what I need to do to the engines before putting them into service. The serial numbers are 03-379 and 03-381 so obviously bought as a pair (they are in UK now possibly sold originally in US), I am assuming the 03 is for 2003 manufacture perhaps. One engine has been run in and it turns freely but is a little rough feeling as it turns and makes a slight grating noise. The other is unrun and turns really smoothly. Both have good compression. Could you please advise what I should do / replace on these engines before thinking of running them and if there are any mods I should consider as I know there have been some design mods to the engines. Peter F.
Posted on: 5/8/2009 6:20 AM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "RCV Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8750726

RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
Thanks for that, will put one magnet in to start with.
Posted on: 3/10/2009 3:18 AM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8562135

RE: Eletronic engine syncronizer **SUPPORT **
I have searched for an answer to the following question and have not got a definitive answer. I am installing Twin Sync on a pair of RCV engines, so the props will turn at about 5,500rpm WOT and less than 1,500rpm tickover. Therefore, the min synchronisation speed on the Twin Sync is close to the tickover speed but this may not be an issue as the sync function will not cut into until the throttle is opened up a little anyway. I know I could install 2 magnets in each spinner 180° apart so it will read twice the rpm. Has anybody got experience of using Twin Sync with RCVs and did they use a single magnet per engine and have no problems or double up magnets. Cheers, Peter.
Posted on: 3/9/2009 7:15 PM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8560620

RE: TopFlite DC-3/C-47 questions
Bob, I got some of the very thin plywood sheet, is it 1/64" (0.4mm) and covered the rudder and elevator with that and then coated the ply with a thin layer of epoxy to seal the surface before painting. My view was that with the ply even at 0.4mm thick there would be enough strength. OK, I get a smooth surface rather than a scale rippled surface effect from fabric covering but it looks OK and survives the hanger rash. Peter.
Posted on: 11/28/2004 4:57 PM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2383339

RE: TopFlite DC-3/C-47 questions
Hi, I also put mine in the underside of the wing in front of the main spar but between the fuz and the left hand wing so I can reach under and switch on/off real easy. As with everything in this plane, the wings get kind of crowded. Peter.
Posted on: 11/3/2004 5:17 PM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2314586

RE: TopFlite DC-3/C-47 questions
Jim, Re flame outs, I installed an Intelligent Glow Switch (IGS - they do a twin version) from South Herts Models - this monitors the plug temperature and heats it from a 1.2V nicad as and when required to minimise flameouts. I have had one when the club "expert" tried to help me out once and I did not arm the IGS properly - got the plane down OK, what the book says is right, but it was still brown trousers time! Peter.
Posted on: 10/28/2004 7:17 AM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2295385

RE: TopFlite DC-3/C-47 questions
Jim, I run Graupner 10 x 7 3 blades on enya 40 2 strokes in my DC-3 (see earlier inputs on this thread) and these are OK but are the largest I would recommend as rpm is only 9200-9500 (but the DC-3 is not a pylon racer), I may change to 9 x 7 to get a few more revs. Someone else in the club also had a DC-3 and now the 4 stroke 52 engines are in a new twin running Graupner 9 x 7 3 blades and again this seem to be a good match. Peter.
Posted on: 10/28/2004 4:37 AM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2295229

RE: TopFlite DC-3/C-47 questions
the plane around the turn, could this also be trying to raise the upper wing? Cheers, PeterF.
Posted on: 9/3/2004 8:06 AM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2143070

RE: Top Flight DC 3
the engines down to 9,500rpm and this flies really well. Enjoy the rest of the build. PeterF.
Posted on: 9/3/2004 7:52 AM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2143046

RE: DC3 with os 40's
Run my topflite DC3 with a pair of plain bearing Enya SS40 engines and these are great. I have 3 blade 10 x 7 graupner props running about 9,500rpm and this is just fine. My plane is a little heavy at approx 10.5 lbs but still fine. Planning on trying a higher rpm prop to see if there is any difference. Ball bearing 40s would be easily powerful enough.
Posted on: 6/5/2004 9:02 PM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1876133

RE: TopFlite DC-3/C-47 questions
I do not have the facilities to make my own oleos and thought that I might do without them as the Robart set does not neither does the Top Flite simple set. Only time will tell if I was right, but there is little room in these retracts to fit them. Now in a 1/7th scale plane there would be plenty of room (and plenty of need for them). Peter.
Posted on: 5/3/2004 4:17 PM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1782608

RE: TopFlite DC-3/C-47 questions
John, When I first flew my DC-3 I found that the elevator was very sensetive which gave quite an initial climb out on first tyake off and that was without flaps!. Needless to say I have reduced rates on elevator (and added some exponential) and now a small gentle pull back has it climbing at a nice gentle rate and at the same time building up that essential speed. Best of luck. Peter.
Posted on: 5/3/2004 6:09 AM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1781183

RE: TopFlite DC-3/C-47 questions
George, Please find attached some sketches of how my retracts have been built and how they work. I have to admit they were not detailed design, but evolved during construction, they are a little agricultural but so is our flying field, as stated above complete with cows, sheep and horses. I have also added a sketch drawing where I have scenned the plan and the retracts up and down plus the servo to show how they work. The servo is perhaps the weakest link here, but no strouble so far as the mid hinge goes over centre and locks against the hardwood rail to take the loads. I have also added anohter shot which shows they look quite good. regards, Peter.
Posted on: 5/3/2004 6:05 AM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1781178

RE: TopFlite DC-3/C-47 questions
It's been a while since anything was added to this, and I have been waiting to add this for near 6 months. I bought the kit in my first year of flying, I was hooked when I saw it and thought it would keep me busy building and by time I finished I would be good enough to fly it. I built the kit, with flaps and home made retracts - our field is a little bumpy at times as the other users are sheep, cattle and horses and did not trust the look of the Robart set for strength. Also glassed the whole plane and sprayed. Final weight is a little heavy at 10.5 lbs but only marginally over the max weight. Hauling it around are two Enya SS40 (plain bearing engines) which are more than adequate. Also, with respect to keeping both fires lit I installed a device called the !QUOT!Intelligent Glow Switch!QUOT! which is available in the UK. This device monitors the plug temperature and gives a burst of power if it cools off. The plane is based on one running in New Zealand - I just saw these really cool images of this plane (ZK-AWP) on one of the full size DC-3 web sites. First flight was not good (September 2003) crashing just after take off and crunching the nose in but not doing any structural damage. Various things got in the way of the repair, and I have only just finished this and got it into the air. 3 flights this week and what a plane, sounds great, looks great and flies really well in a scale manner. My first flights were with 11 x 7 props as I did not want to risk my expensive 3 blades and these were the only 2blade matched pair I had to hand. Engines peaked at 9,300rpm, I know a little low but it was enough to get the plane up in a good take off run (no horsing it into the air) but it kept the 2 stroke sound to a real good beat with both engines in sync. Peter.
Posted on: 4/28/2004 4:59 PM by Author "PeterF" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1768021