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RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
[quote]ORIGINAL: Wine Country Flyer I'm wondering if you could send me a paper cutout of a rib? ...Thanks-John [/quote] John...can do...PM me address. Don...windshield went out today via USPO priority mail. Had to bend to fit but did not crease. Lets see how the voyage goes and sorry for delay. Pete...do share photos and or videos. If I was to go the retracting route, definitely
Posted on: 9/14/2011 12:36 PM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10714799
RE: Seaplane pictures
Many great and beautiful models in here. Heres mine with a Magnum 46 and 11x7 prop. 1st Before maiden 2nd After one major repair 3rd The "official" pre-final inspection by grandson.
Posted on: 9/3/2011 2:35 PM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10699896
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
Nice colors...they blend nicely. What are they?
Posted on: 9/2/2011 1:52 PM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10698677
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
Received PM Skydanz. Will go out on Tuesday. Replied to PM but unsure if sent as Im getting an error page after pressing OK to send.
Posted on: 9/2/2011 12:57 PM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10698619
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
[quote]Pete, Any chance I could buy one of those windshields or even borrow the mold?[/quote] Send me name and address via PM. Glad to help out a fellow "Mariner". [quote]Anyone know of a successful UC mod so it can be flown from a runway? I've been toying with something similar to how the Seamaster has it setup. [/quote] Ive seen a photo of a non-retractable but removable. Need
Posted on: 9/2/2011 12:32 PM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10698589
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
Thanks...will consider float modification on the balsa cored ones. Had three flights with minor issues. Lost fuel tank cover on my 2 landing (a double bounce). The wind eventually blew back in my direction by third flight. As it was completely covered, it did not get wet. Forgot rubber band but had packing tape on hand. Details, details. After third flight, engine starts acting. Only runs for about 20 seconds then dies as if fuel starved. Decided to head home as sun was doing its magic thing even in the shade. So far its not the plug, hoses...so it must be the "repaired" fuel tank but no fuel seemed to be leaking. I have another one similar in size but not layout. Will use it until a similar replament comes along. Carb is loose. Need to remove cowling and might as well replace O-ring. Its not 5pm yet. Still have >three hours of sunlight and much cooler.[:D] Have a couple of videos...will post soon. Last Photo... Ready for the lake on the background.
Posted on: 5/22/2011 1:55 PM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10534614
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
FINAL DETAILS Wing covering completed. Fuel tank cover sanded flushed and covered both sides this time. First day out, rubber band will keep in place. IF no fuel issues due to repaired tank, then silicone inside seams will be used to keep cover in place. Wing saddle, windshield, engine pod mast received Silicone. Cling wrap was used to protect wing and mast. Even wing screw as well as fuselage got some too. Fully cured in 8 hours and excess trimmed. A couple of microwave dried sponges are wedged by each side of engine pod mast and fuselage, ready just in case. RX Receiver fail safe programmed (engine below normal idle, 3 degree up elevator and 3 degree left rudder) Corrosion X treated. (all electrical connectors as well as metal hardware) Sealed inside a zip lock and a sponge wire tied around wire leads before Rx. If water gets in bag, sponge should absorb anything going to Rx. Not seen is a small silica pellets bag (absorb moisture) RX BATTERY 4.8 NiMH 1650mA wraped in foam keeping off bottom of hull and tucked under forward hatch. Packing tape will be used over hatch until magnets completely set. All radio programming doble checked. Rdo batt charged...check. New fuel lines...check. New gallon of fuel...check. New battery for glow starter...check New plug...check Weather forecast....SSE 3-4mph 80'sF...check.[8D] Volunteer to video flights....CHECK! Heading out as of this editing. 10:45am Sunday. Thanks for reading and comments...Video to follow.
Posted on: 5/22/2011 1:24 PM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10533623
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
GF WING FLOATS (originals) Drilled four new holes around axle hole to allow epoxy to seep in and further secure inside block that keeps axle centered. A bamboo stick helps keep epoxy out of main hole. I do want "some" to go in here but not much. Just enought to form a seal between hole and block inside hole. Hairlines are heavily scored or grooved with triangle shape diamong file. All loose gelcoat chips are removed. This gives epoxy good penetration. Not shown but tape was used to line both sides of seam bottom on one float. Plenty of epoxy was used as this was a seam that split from step all the way back. Excess was wiped off with rag and another piece of tape was placed over seam. This kept epoxy from dripping out of seam and also makes for a very thin layer. After about one hour all tape is removed. Float were tested under 2ft of water and no bubbles came out. Axle was covered in silicon prior to insertion for a final sealing. No water is getting in either. They were wet sanded with 600 grit and the "white" will get painted after a gallon.[8D]
Posted on: 5/22/2011 7:52 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10533615
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
^Thanks. Also have contemplated going with fuse side retracts as well as in wing. However, Model Aviation Feb 06 (page 78) has a photo of a Mariner with removable landing gear and I'm leaning towards this idea. I can scan and send you copy if interested. Dont know if I can post here. ************* BALSA CORED WING FLOATS I started working on at least one foam cored balsa float before repairing originals ones as I'm itching to fly her this weekend. First traced top and side profile onto cardboard by using a lamp to cast their shadow for tracing. Fix errors with blue tape for a second tracing. Side profile used as template for 3/16th balsa sides. Cut out four for sanding all at the same time. Top profile "cut out" further trimmed by width of balsa sides (3/16th) and then used as a template for balsa cores. (little sanding if new x-acto blade used) A series of kerf cuts down to 1/16 off face to bend wood. Tape on front keeps together in case it breaks while bending. Rubber band assist with bend-clamping Now that I have a scale replica, I can fix originals. ***Pending: >yellow glue is smeared inside the sides and kerf cuts >Cling wrap foam cores to keep glue off it as it will get messy. >Wipe off excess glue. Wood keeps shape after glue dries. >Sand inside. >Remove cling wrap from core >Use very thin layer of epoxy to glue sides to cores also top and bottom of float. >Final sanding to shape >Finish with GF, film or paint.
Posted on: 5/22/2011 7:51 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10533573
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
RIBS - Gluing SPAR - Repair Done cutting. Now for some dry fitting prior to gluing with good old reliable yellow glue. Thin hanger wire and epoxy will do the job for the spar. Carved a groove for wire to sit flush.
Posted on: 5/22/2011 7:49 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10522448
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
RIBS - Cutting Now onto regular stock paper. This takes several attempts to get it just right. Then it was just a matter of making a few out of balsa and finally one of 3mm ply for future reference or use. (hope not) Once again I was able to use "Mr Mike" RIP plane for spare wood. Folding paper rib in half lenght wise not only expedites cutting but since its a symmetrical profile, both sides either come out perfect or with the same error. So in essence correcting one side automatically corrects the other half.
Posted on: 5/22/2011 7:48 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10522361
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
RIBS - Tracing Started by gluing the cracked ribs. Traced the ribs with newspaper type paper first (thinner thus easier) Tried a test on a scrap piece of balsa to verify.
Posted on: 5/22/2011 7:48 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10522247
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
IRON REPAIR Murphy showed up halfway into skinning the fuselage. You can run to the LHS and purchase another one or... Needle nose pliers (one with bent tip) used to bend wire as I dont own one of those wire benders jigs...yet. Lighter for heating up wire prior to bending and also for the heat shrink tubes. Needed to cut electric cord in order to remove from inside handle, thats why you would notice different color connectors. (blue to red) After I was done, ended with a straight handle...not good. I shortened front wire in order to give handle an angle. Finally, cut off about an inch from original handle and wedged onto dowel. This allows me to remove it to get into tighter places even better than before.
Posted on: 5/22/2011 7:47 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10520575
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
SHEETING BOTTOM Dowels used for equal distribution of sandbag load. Rubber bands help keep dowels in place. Done with bottom! The moment of truth is when mounting wing to fuselage and checking saddle fit. [X(] Think I still need to use silicone rubber for sealing? (of course I will [:D] ) Need to go to LHS later on today to pick up some black monokote for the leading edge of wing and stripes. Blue painters tape on forward hatch just holding in place until replaced with magnets.
Posted on: 5/21/2011 9:54 PM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10524991
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
^Thanks...never have built from purchased plans. Seen them...does that count? [:)] I will take credit for some creativity but thanks to this site as well as others and especially the folks that have also shared for many years. Also thanks to Al Gore for inventing the internet [;)] [:D] ****************** SHEETING TOP The piece of bent wire with a loop on one end was used to push cracked/broken sheet into place from inside. CA was used here. A "T" pin was used to pull web against spars. Manufacturer used CA here. Had to scrape off brittle pieces then used a couple drops of epoxy as yellow glue would not work. Done with top sheeting!
Posted on: 5/18/2011 6:14 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10524844
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
GF BOTTOM Seen on first photo and not mentioned is the cap on #1 bulkhead to close it off. This adds support and surface area for "hot gluing" the nose cone in place. Used T-pins to get a feeling of positioning and making some creases sort of speaking. Removed, sprayed bottom very lightly with contact cement and repositioned with no issues since it had the preshape of bottom now. Used painters tape to mask off perimeter from excess epoxy drippings...just in case I get too sloppy. I prefer to measure the epoxy rather than eyeballing it. Used playing cards to spread/scrape off excess. My mistake was to use 30 minute epoxy, not giving me enought time to scrape off ALL of it....so that means some extra sanding. One photo shows only one half already sanded. Used 80 grit for the lump then 120 for smoothing down. Once done, waterproofed with some "fast drying" MINWAX polyurethane. I was able to finish some areas that I had missed previously when new as I have better access all the way back inside given lack of skin. I removed whatever white covering was left on the left. Last photo ready for covering. [:D]
Posted on: 5/17/2011 9:56 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10458726
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
WIND DAMAGE I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. [8D] Luckily only one of the spars broke off and it had to be the bottom one...go figure. An easy fix as it was a clean snap. Second row last photo, you will notice where a previous repair had been done. There was this lake I used to go to that has metal pipes sticking out that are used for fish feeding. It was not the best lake but the closest. At the time I was not aware of a float flying club. While on a landing and still with some momentum after touch down, the left wing met this pole and broke leading edge. The white on the wood is spackle to fill voids and cracks. Balsarite would be better, but...[8|] This plane has also "landed" on top of a 80ft + pine tree after a take off where the wind shifted on me and she was now climbing down wind. She almost cleared it by a couple of feet. Climbing spikes, ladders and ropes came in handy the next morning..thanks goes to SAM on that one as he knew the owner of the spikes. It saved me effort and time and the plane of course. The right leading edge suffered on that one and not much either. We video that rescue for the "halibut". If I was to remake the whole wing on any plane this size or larger, I would definitely use a dowel for leading edge instead of balsa. The black CUB on the background on some photos has such and its strong. Food for thought.
Posted on: 5/17/2011 8:21 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10521040
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
TEMPORARY FUEL TANK REPAIR After covering the fuse, I was itching to crank the engine as it was over 7 months on hiatus. She started right up and purred like a kitten. Unfortunately while lifting nose for fine tuning needle, fuel started coming out of pod and going into fuse. [X(] Fortunately I had water proof inside pod but not the cover,which got fuel soaked, weak and mushy. Removed fuel tank cover and noticed tank had a crack at the top of flange where plug with brass tubes go in. A little dremel action to make a groove around flange and some music wire to keep it from spreading when tightening plug to seal. This is a temp solution until I get a similar replacement as this plane is not for acro nor inverted flight. Cranked her up again and no leaks. I was surprised it actually worked. Last time I visited the local club, sticking out of the crash can was a doomed plane with a label with the name MR MIKE. Thanks Mike! You're plane memory lives on with my Mariner. The "new" cover was already half done with white monokote...sweet.
Posted on: 5/17/2011 8:20 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10521002
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
GF WINDSHIELD PLUG First layer too wrinkled [:o] Good thing its the inside part. Total of 3 layers of 2oz. Sanded and ready for a little black paint. I will make another one for me. [:D]
Posted on: 5/17/2011 8:19 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10520907
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
SKINNING SIDES Im not too crazy on the finish on the nose but its not noticeable up in the air or in the water. (nor in the photos) [:)] I had saved the covering with the side windows for copying. I think it came out pretty decent.
Posted on: 5/17/2011 8:18 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10520184
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
^Thanks for comments... ***** SKINNING BOTTOM Started covering the "lifters" first as this would most likely receive most of the wear and tear. This area will be doble covered. The nose is a pain but doable.[8|] Bottom is done! Last photo all the tools used.
Posted on: 5/17/2011 8:18 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10520131
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
GLUING SPLASH RAILS I copied original kerf or cut locations in order to bend around hull. Taped the backside of it to keep all the pieces together then taped to hull. By third photo you can see where the top is pulled away from hull by using bottom tape as hinge. (back tape still attached) This turned out not having enought space to get epoxy in there without making a mess. Instead used top tape as hinge to gain access from bottom. Once in place removed back tape prior to epoxy...of course. Photos with nose cone to get an idea where more sanding is needed for a nice tight fit. Last two photos, chines sanded to match nose cone. Nose cone also received some epoxy to fix all the gelcoat chips and cracks. This takes several layers. I usually use the epoxy that is left from gluing other areas. By then its more peanut butter consistency rather than syrop. This way it more moldable and will not run. I use my 6 inch stainless steel ruler (post 17 first photo) for mixing and application. Works great and wipes clean with some Denatured Alcohol on a rag.
Posted on: 5/17/2011 8:16 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10458680
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
FORWARD HATCH I was going to completely seal this area by entending the deck all the way eliminating the hatch but knowing that plane needed weight up front (RX batt) decided to go back to original concept. Hatch was made joining three pieces side by side as it was the only 1/2" thick piece I had left and I still needed to add to that to make up for height. Last three photos, all ready for skirt/splash rails.
Posted on: 5/17/2011 8:16 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10458312
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
BOTTOM First few photos a look at the final results without clamps or rubber bands and sanded. Finally I can start the bottom! [8D] First the dry fit. [8|] The grain runs athwartship, so it took four sections/cuts per side. After trimming, removed and turned over to expose inside seams with tape still attached to fill with epoxy. Painters tape works just fine. Used 1 inch and trim down to 1/2" or 1/4" according to needs using a balsa trimmer. Third row...second photo I had to cut back some more of the original bottom almost to the bulkhead of mast. This way it has some support where they join. You can see the before photo in first row second photo. Last two photos...bottom is dry and ready to work on the top deck.
Posted on: 5/17/2011 8:15 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10458216
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
KEEL First photo... 1/32 ply that will be used inside hull: Top left two pieces to fix a pin or tail that the router managed to chip off a couple of the laminations (second photo); Bottom left two pieces for the keel; Right two pieces for dovetails backup which also help with alignment. Stainless Stell 6" ruler comes in very handy for tight spaces, mixing and application of epoxy and glues. In the beginning I had sanded the keel a little too short and rather than making a new one, I made up the difference with ply and epoxy and Im happy with results.
Posted on: 5/17/2011 8:15 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10458064
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
SKIRT -WATER SPLASH RAIL Making the skirts or water rails for the hull. Due to small piece of scrap wood, I started with a shallow cut (no blade protruding) with the tablesaw to start the angle. Snap off the piece, then the sanding drum to complete. Who needs a protractor? [;)]
Posted on: 5/17/2011 8:14 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10457987
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
LEADING EDGE Cut off small damaged section at an acute angle for a scarf joint. This adds gluing area and is usually 8 times thickness of piece but overkill for this project. A butt joint is another option with some backing for bracing such as a half rib forward of spars. I already started sheeting the wing as of this post. Just a little more to go. [8D]
Posted on: 5/17/2011 7:07 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10522505
Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
She flew well and her landing and take off were majestic. The water shedding off as she climbs looks like a smoke trail. She was well into her third gallon with her new engine humming along until one of those windy days just happened to creep up on you (Florida flash thunderstorms). While going downwind too fast and too low, I had a split of a second to make a fatal decision...into the pine trees or into the water. Funny how elevators respond TOO well to down pitch. The only great thing of crashing into water is that practically all pieces float. Half of the hatch cover went down due to weight of magnets. [&o] Gave engine a good spray of Corrosion X and later cranked it to make sure it was still humming and it did with same plug. Sprayed some more while under repair. Photos tell the rest of the story...so far. First row the carnage. [X(] I had to glue several parts to make them whole in order to have something to measure or trace. Second row... Because I drilled holes at the bottom of mast as well as keel, the epoxy seeped in adding to strenght. Mast is still sturdy and secured and does not give any hints of delamination. Second photo shows a factory spline on keel under servos, which I will repeat during repair of nose keel. Third row... I already had cut out top deck and keel from 3mm ply and started working on sides when I decided to take photos for sharing.
Posted on: 4/15/2011 7:40 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10417372
RE: Lanier Mariner 40 MKII >> REPAIR <<
Second set of photos... Dry fitting as I go along. Lots of taking off and putting back on and sanding to just to double check myself as I only have so much ply on hand donated by a good friend Tom. Last row... Placing half of what is left of deck and hatch cover to make sure all is well. Still need to remake these too.
Posted on: 4/15/2011 7:37 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10418390
RE: GP ElectriFly Fokker D.VII WWI EP
Great paint job there foodstick. I realize this thread is almost three years old. I never did post photos of the finished repair. The plane had gone back to original owner and remained on static display on his coffee table. During a spool up last year, an unnoticeable bent shaft broke of engine mount and firewall and it came back my way to repair just these two items as I have the template for the engine mount. Anyways...I took some photos to share. Last photo next to its arch nemesis. My SE 5a from LANIER. Burned the motor so its on static. Other repairs... http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10417372/tm.htm http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2706185/anchors_7537742/mpage_10/key_/anchor/tm.htm#7537742
Posted on: 4/13/2011 6:39 AM by Author "Pistol Pete"
in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10417294
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