RE: *New Bravata 30cc Gasser*
Conducted the maiden flight on my Bravata yesterday. Temperatures here in southwest Michigan was just at 80 degrees. Wind out of the west/northwest at 4-8 mph. Prior to flying, adjusted aileron trim on my DX-18 with about 10-blips of right roll trim. Even with that, there was a significant rolling of the aircraft to the left. Straight and level flight took a little more than 1/4" trim on each side. It really looks odd (and you can see it in flight) having that much right aileron trim. I'm not a real aerobatic pilot, but knowing the ailerons have limited trim (even at their maximum deflection based on the hinging and the way the aileron leading edges are beveled), roll rate is abysmal. If you want to do a lazy or "barrel-ish" roll, you'll need plenty of altitude and kick some rudder in there to help. And if you want to roll to the right, there is very little aileron left for this. With wind coming cross-wind toward the left wingtip, a nice sideslip was no problem and very smooth wheel landing resulted. You can plant the mains down right at touchdown with a little down-elevator and there's plenty of authority to hold the tail up until she almost comes to a stop. I also replaced the foam tires with DuBro low-bounce tires for a little more of a smoother ride. As it was breezy, I only used the first notch of flaps for some slow fly-bys and didn't use any for landing. I'll experiment a little more with flaps in less breezy conditions. Between the second and third flight, I was making a quick turn-around and found the DLE-30 just didn't want to start, and only ran briefly when choked. I've seen this before. With an OAT of 80 degrees, the engine was hot and needed to sit parked nose-into the wind to cool down for about 15 minutes, then she started right up again. I'll be opening up the area around the exhaust tubes on the bottom of the cowl, even more than I did before. I could open the "grill-work" air inlets below the spinner, but I like the grill-type look and hope my enlarged air-exit area will help. I also have the half-circle area opened up below the "grill" air inlet. I think I'll get some 0.015" aluminum and do what Dick Pettit did regarding an aileron trim tab for the right aileron. Too bad we have to do this. It's a nice airplane and fun to fly. Aeroworks could have had a real winner here. The modifications we have to make to get this airplane to fly straight and level is something I've never had to do (to this degree) to any airplane I've ever owned...particularly at this price. A click or two of aileron trim is OK, but not to the degree this one requires. You can even see it in the photos I've attached.
Posted on: 5/17/2013 10:09 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Aero-Works Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514334

RE: Fleet Brotherhood
Wow!! Didn't know this would take off (no pun intended) like it did!! I'm really impressed with the quality and diversity of the Fleet Brotherhood. Some great looking Fleets out there! OK, here's the next big idea. Consider a "Meeting of the Fleets" sometime in the summer of 2013. I'd offer to host here in the Kalamazoo Michigan area at our flying field at the Gilmore Car Museum www.gilmorecarmuseum.org/. Lots of antique cars and a great museum, along with a huge flying site with no restriction on the size of aircraft...just the place for aircraft of the "Golden Age of Aviation!" Camping on-site (primitive, I think) when they hold car events in the summer and we can see if we would be permitted to do the same. Maybe open it up to other biplanes of the Golden Age as well, to attract more flyers. Let me know what you think.
Posted on: 9/18/2012 4:41 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232132

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
Tried, but the video cards on the Sony were all full. Guess I didn't do such a good pre-flight on the video equipment. I'll do better and get some video in the next couple of weeks. Maybe we should start a "Fleet-Brotherhood" to keep everyone on the same page??
Posted on: 9/17/2012 7:59 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11231063

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
Sounds like some great tips on the Fleet. Had a chance to get four more 10-minute flights on my Fleet this past Saturday. I was trying to fly formation with another flyer flying a GP Stearman, with a Saito 150 GK in the nose. Evan at full throttle on the Fleet (which flies at the same airspeed at full or half throttle...with all that drag), the Stearman kept pulling away from me. Just goes to show you the difference in the scale sizes of aircraft. Anyway, the silver-soldered brass exhaust tubes worked great...none came loose.
Posted on: 9/17/2012 6:31 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11230957

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
Some beautiful Fleets out there lads. I agree, just flying around, touch-and-goes, nice scale maneuvers. This model is not really stressed for anything more than that. Silver-soldered my original muffler's broken exhaust tube, then ordered another one. On this one, I silver-soldered 1/2" copper tubes (my original muffler has silicone tubes gear-clamped and sticking out the bottom of the cowl. Hope this one, with the copper tubes, holds up. Looks a lot better also. Here's a photo looking up on the bottom of the cowl.
Posted on: 9/11/2012 3:56 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224755

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
[quote]ORIGINAL: Mein Duff Congrats John on a successful maiden...sound like shes a solid flyer....nice pics also... Just wondering if you were able to do any rolls?.... mine rolls like a pig in a barrel even with maximum deflection... [/quote] Thanks Duff. I switched to high rates on the ailerons (all I could get out of her) on the second flight and just trying to see how much roll control she had, I too found out that she was not going to roll over. I performed some 90-degree banking maneuvers, close to a wing-over, but I don't think I'm going to try to roll it. I think it flies a lot like the original...a biplane version of a J-3!
Posted on: 9/4/2012 1:16 PM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11217283

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
I've ordered a new Fuji Muffler, and I'll also silver-solder or braze the broken exhaust pipe, in the even this happens again. I still need to finish the pilot's seat (flew without a pilot yesterday). The Fuji is heavy enough, so didn't need to put the servos in the tail. the elevator servos (2) and rudder pull-pull servo are just aft of the rear cockpit. The two LiFe batteries are mounted directly on the hatch below the rear cockpit. She's a keeper!
Posted on: 9/4/2012 12:17 PM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11217207

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
First Flight Report: First flight was Monday, September 03, 2012. Temperature in the Kalamazoo, Michigan area was about 90 degrees. Light and variable winds out of the south. Some right-rudder needed on takeoff, but not an extreme amount. She took off straight and just after climbout, added about three clicks of right-aileron trim. No trim needed on the elevator or rudder. First flight lasted with two touch-and-go landings. Landings were made on the mains with a touch of down-elevator just after touchdown to plant the mains. The first flight lasted about 10 minutes, with turns and pattern approaches. The second flight included more touch-and-go landings, but before I could get a stall-series begun, I noticed a different sound coming from the engine. Landed and found that one of the two exhaust tubes coming out of the bottom of the stock Fuji 43 muffler had broken off and was dangling inside the cowl. Overall, considering the poor wood quality and lack of really good information on setup and incidences of the wings, horizontal stab and engine mount, I'm very surprised at how well the airplane flew.
Posted on: 9/4/2012 12:11 PM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11217201

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
OK, the final post-build statistics: - Final weight = 21 lbs exactly (without fuel) - Fuji 43 spinning a 20X8 prop. - 2-3200 Mah LiFe batteries - CG at the rear cabane mount bolts - Finish=Solartex green/cream, with Rustoleum paint finish - Time to build = 3-years, off and on.
Posted on: 9/4/2012 12:00 PM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11217191

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
Put her together and had the Fuji 43 running in the yard. The engine ran well and should develop enough power for flight. Hope to maiden her tonight, so may have more to report tomorrow.
Posted on: 9/3/2012 9:17 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11215694

RE: Aero-Works Cessna 195 ARF
Have recently flown the Cessna 195 a little more, getting more used to it, particularly in the landing phase of flight. The aircraft seems to like wheel-landings the best. Trying to three-point her down will result in some pretty good bouncing back in the air, as the landing gear is not very stiff. I found dropping the first notch of flaps on downwind, which will cause a pitch-down attitude, but if you control the speed of the flap deployment, you have time to adjust to the change in pitch, allow the aircraft to slow down and then you'll find you'll be in a good decent for landing with no change in trim. I added the second notch of flaps on about mid-base leg, which again, will cause some downward pitching of the nose, but it really just sets you up with the proper decent profile for landing. Shortly after turning final, I reduced the power to idle. Once the speed begins to bleed off, you actually have to add some down-elevator as the flaps will begin to bring the nose up instead of pitching down. Bring her in for a main-wheel landing and as soon as the mains touch, add a little down elevator to keep the mains planted and prevent any bouncing back into the air. Once you get the technique just right, you'll find she's very enjoyable to fly. Touch-and-go's after a full-flap landing are not that difficult to control. You'll have to be sure the nose does not pitch up too sharply when you add power, so feeding a little down-elevator in helps, while you reach for the flap switch to reduce flaps to half, then to full up. I'm quite impressed how well she flies. So far, I have two Aeroworks aircraft and they are just about the best looking and flying aircraft I have.
Posted on: 8/30/2012 4:08 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211299

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
Added a choke rod from the carburetor on the Fuji 43 so that you don't have to put your fingers in the cowl. Just a little added extra safety! If the photos don't upload (some trouble here), I'll try again later.
Posted on: 8/28/2012 12:40 PM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11209292

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
Thanks Duff. I'll keep you posted on the maiden.
Posted on: 8/22/2012 9:55 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11202192

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
The front and rear windscreens are completed. I let each one dry (paint and glue) about 3 days before attaching it with screws. They're on very tight and should be very secure. Almost running out of excuses why I should not get her out in the next couple of weeks for the maiden flight!
Posted on: 8/22/2012 4:04 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201856

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
A couple other items. I used a sharpie to mark out where I wanted to cut the windscreen frame material (which will be replaced by the clear plastic panels). Just like the article, I used a drill-bit (1/8" for me), in each of the corners, then prepared to cut out the windows. When cutting the material out to reveal only the windscreen frame, use either a small/thin cutoff wheel, or like I did, I used a small toothed cutting disc (like a miniature circular-saw blade) on my Dremel. You'll be cutting and leaving behind some very delicate fiberglass frame material, particularly at the top of the windscreen, so be very gentle when cutting. A small, thin cutting disc will work best. After it is cut out, use some flat sanding sticks (like emory boards) to clean up the windshields. I left most of the gentle curved shapes of the 1/8" drill-bit in the corners of the windows, as this will prevent any cracking due to vibration (like stop-drilling). From start to finish, it took about a half-day to complete each windscreen. It is quite labor intensive, but gives you a fantastic product when you're done. Most of your time will be spent in sanding and preparing the windscreen for paint. I'll get a photo of both attached, later this week.
Posted on: 8/20/2012 4:15 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199442

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
When finishing, you'll find that the JB-Weld doesn't sand all that easily, but be persistent. I used some 150 grit on that, then filled any small imperfections with drywall-filler, then some final sanding with 200 and 300 grit. Don't forget to use some CA or JB-Weld, then some filler on the bends between each windscreen panel, which you scored with a #11 Exacto blade, to be able to angle each windscreen panel (two sides and the front). Again, fill and sand to a smooth finish. I primed with Rustoleum white primer, then corrected any imperfections, re-primed/sanded/filled until you've got a nice smooth surface and nice curves between the base and the windscreen. Three coats of color, then three coates of clear. Then, just as the MAN article showed, trace out the windows with a Sharpie onto some (I used .015 Evergreen clear plastic sheet) with a sharpie, then cut the window 1/8" larger all the way around, cleaned the Sharpie lines off with some denatured alcohol, then used some RC-56 canopy adhesive (as it dries clear). Let the clear plastic dry completely before attaching the windscreen to the fuselage. If like in the photo below, you can still see the glue is white, it's not cured. It will be clear when dried, so any small oozing out you have on the windshield will be almost invisible. If you have a large oozed glue-mass, carefully trim out with a #11 blade.
Posted on: 8/20/2012 4:01 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199439

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
After curing, remove the base sheet and windscreen and trim the base of the windscreen, but be sure to give yourself enough room to be able to screw down the base to the fuselage. When you remove it from the fuselage, you will note that the windscreen will "spring" out a little and it will not exactly conform to the rounded fuselage if you just place it on there. Don't worry, when you finally screw it down to attach it, it will conform nicely. I used some #4 sheet-metal screws to hold it down. No glue needed. It holds it down very securely.
Posted on: 8/20/2012 3:48 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199436

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
OK, more on the windscreen builds. The actual frame of the windscreen was made of .030" fiberglass G-10 sheet. To be able to get the "base" of the windshield to wrap around the fuselage, I went down to a .020" G-10 fiberglass sheet, which is wrapped and taped over the area where the windscreen will be attached. I tacked the windscreen down to the .020 sheet with a little CA and JB-Weld. I then made the fillets out of JB-Weld (front windscreen shown for that ).
Posted on: 8/20/2012 3:39 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199434

RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Sounds like a good idea. I'll give that a try.
Posted on: 8/16/2012 6:28 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195605

RE: Aquacraft Rio 51z
Anyone still monitoring this forum...Bueller...anyone?? I have had a couple of the Rio 51Z's for a couple years now. One of them starts and runs absolutely fine all the way through the run. The other starts and runs fine, but after about 5-7 minutes, the engine develops what sounds like an engine miss through most of the throttle range. The engine seems to be cooling just fine and no other problems. Not sure why two boats that are identical are running differently. No amount of carb tuning seems to help this out. Same plugs and gas/oil mix. Have ordered a super-cooling head and Iridium plugs from Bonzai to see if that helps. Was thinking it might be the ignition coil or coil pickup, but not sure that's the problem if the engine runs well for the first few minutes. Any ideas??
Posted on: 8/16/2012 4:16 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195518

RE: Hangar 9 1/4 Scale Piper Cub ARF???
I've had three so far, two currently in flying condition. DLE-20 in one, no nose-weight. Flies perfectly with a Xoar 17X6 prop. Will even fly OK with an 18X6 prop. Two 3200 Mah LiFe batteries located where the front seat would be, balances perfetly. Second one is a float-plane version, stripped and covered/painted with Solartex and a DLE-30 in the nose. Haven't had it to the lake yet, but it's ready to go. No balancing weight needed in any of them.
Posted on: 8/16/2012 3:52 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195505

RE: Green models 120 Tiger Moth
[quote]ORIGINAL: Tim Wolff The instructions mention pre-drilled holes in the wing joiners and using a screw to retain the wings to the joiners. No holes in either of the joiners and I don't see any ''hardpoints'' in the wings to place a retaining screw.?? What holds the wing halves on the center sections? Edit: D'OH! Found the pilot holes on the bottom of the lower wing. :) The main joiners for both wings are a very tight fit. Spend a couple hours fitting the joiner in the lower wings last night. Both joiners are going to need a very precise fit if I expect to be able to slide each pair of wings off for transport. [/quote] Tim, Those hard-points are hard to find...spend quite a while myself and the instructions really said nothign about these. I set mine up to remove all four wing panels, individually. It is more of a pain to have to re-attach all of the struts and flying wires, but that's how I did it. I also did something a little different with the wing tubes. Instead of just adding a setscrew through the wing through the hardwood hard-points on the wing panels, I drilled through the hardwood and up through the aluminum wing-tube. I then tapped it for an 8/32 bolt and then inserted the tube and bolt with a little Lock-Tite. I then, slid the wing/tube into position on the fuselage and drilled/tapped the other wing panel for the 8/32 bolt. Repeated this for the upper wing panels. I leave the wing-tube inserted and bolted into one of the lower and one of the upper wing panels and do not remove it. In this way, I never have to worry about lining up the right side of the tube with the correct wing panel/screw hole. I just have to screw in one 8/32 bolt for the top wings, one for the bottom, and the wings are attached. Everything stays lined up and there's no problem. A little Lock-tite every once in a while on the removable bolt helps keep her tight...not to mention using a lock-washer and standard washer under that. So far, nothing's ever vibrated loose. After the wings are attached on with the aluminum wing-tubes and arrow-shafts, it's on to the wing wires. I use the provided threaded barrels, some extra piano-wire loops and heavy-duty ball-bearing swivels to help get everything on and snugged up.
Posted on: 8/15/2012 3:50 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11194096

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
Not sure how attached, probably glued. I may try silicone or if I use screws, I'll have to add some reinforcing behind for the screws to sink into.
Posted on: 8/14/2012 12:13 PM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11193292

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
[quote]ORIGINAL: Mein Duff John, I work at a sign shop and made all my stick on lettering for my Fleet.. If you are interested I can get the rest of your lettering and decals made at material and postage cost.. Your tail end looks great !! [/quote] Thanks Duff. I'll email or PM you on an idea or two. Thank you very much for your offer. Getting closer to getting this bird in the air this summer!!
Posted on: 8/14/2012 3:35 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11192725

RE: Ace Big Bingo questions
Had the Big Bingo up for the first time in a couple of months. Engine ran and the airplane flew great. Had my son fly the my Great Planes Giant Super Sportster, to get an idea of how both aircraft flew together. Both are similar in size (with the Big Bingo being a little larger in span and a good pound or two heavier, but forgot to bring my digital scale to weigh them). Both were flying with a DLE-30 with Xoar 18X6 props (Yes, I have a black one for the Bingo, just need to drill it ou). Same fuel, same radio systems. With the barn-door ailerons and lighter weight, it was clear that the GP GSS was more maneuverable and had a better climb rate and could land a little slower. The Big Bingo seemed to have a slight edge on speed, with a little less drag, but you can tell the aileron effectiveness at low-speed is not as good as the GP GSS. Practiced some rough formation flying and will fly these together in the future to get a better picture of large-scale 30cc airplanes; kit vs. ARF, then versus now.
Posted on: 8/13/2012 4:28 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11191352

RE: Concept Fleet Biplane
Working on the windscreens now. Found an old article on the internet, regarding building from G-10 fiberglass sheet material. Have the two cut out, just waiting for some thinner G-10 I have on order. The windscreens are made of .030" material and the bases will be out of .015 or .020" material, which wraps around the cockpits a little easier than the .030" material. Here's the link, which takes you to a three-part article from MAN: http://www.modelairplanenews.com/blog/2011/07/05/how-to-make-scale-windshield-frames/
Posted on: 8/13/2012 4:05 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11191332

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
Requesting entry into the Cub Brotherhood. Currently, one H-9 Cub in yellow military colors, DLE-20. Second is a H-9 Cub stripped and recovered in blue and orange Solartex, painted in Rustoleum rattle-can paint and sporting H-9 floats and a DLE-30. First Cub was a Goldberg Anniversary with Saito 56 back in 1987 and an earlier H-9 Cub. Not pictured is an Aeroworks red/white S-2 Cub with a DLE-55, but you can see the tail in the photo of the seaplane.
Posted on: 8/7/2012 4:05 PM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11184782

RE: Green models 120 Tiger Moth
I installed the one-way valve when I added the smoke system, but agree the only way to meter the amount of oil going in will be to restrict the smoke fluid line, either by clamping pressure or an old needle-valve assembly. I'll let you know when I get a chance to try it.
Posted on: 8/6/2012 4:21 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11182599

RE: Green models 120 Tiger Moth
Yes, trying to adjust the "throw" on a variable channel doesn't work well, as the pump requires a minimum voltage and there seems to be very little "volume" adjustment through the radio. I do have all of my joints zip-tied, so that should help to prevent any pressure-born failures. I don't have a great deal of experience with smoke systems, so this is a learn-as-you-go experience for me. Thanks again.
Posted on: 8/2/2012 4:03 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11178187

RE: Green models 120 Tiger Moth
Great idea Mitch. Was having a hard time adjusting the output of the smoke pump, which becomes more critical with the voltage reduced via reduced output from the transmitter settings. As long as too much pressure isn't built up by the pump and there's no danger of blowing one of the lines, I like this idea! Thanks.
Posted on: 8/1/2012 4:05 AM by Author "Planejaw" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11176945