RE: Best sounding R/C Plane ever..
Yeah, I had seen that video before and I have seen an OS 5 Cylinder run live at the club a long time ago. Dont get me wrong, those engines are VERY nice and look absolutely beautiful but they are no Moki.. It's smoother sounding than a 1 cylinder of course. In flight, to me it's still closer to a "regular" R/C 4 stroke than the real thing, they are missing the higher frequency
Posted on: 7/29/2011 3:33 PM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10645555

RE: Best sounding R/C Plane ever..
I agree. I think it's the combination of Multi-cylinder / 4 strokes / the prop / and Ignition.. The Saito and OS 3, 5, and 7 cylinder radials are nice but they are glows and they unfortunately don't sound that much different from a plain 1 cylinder 4 stroke glow.. The Moki would be a very close second for me. It does sound awesome and extremely realistic on Idle and in flight. It's just that the inline 3 does an unbeleiveable job of reproducing that very racy Merlin V12 sound.. I do have to say that the Kolm engine will probably cost somewhere close to 3,500.00 Euros or more.. ( $5,000 US dollars). Moki's are a lot more affordable. If I went crazy on a 30% scale bird I'd be very proud to fly a Moki powered P-47 Thunderbolt or Corsair but don't think I could justify the extra coin for a P-51 / Kolm engine like the one I showed.
Posted on: 7/29/2011 2:29 PM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10645436

Best sounding R/C Plane ever..
OK, so it's totally off topic and really belongs in a giant scale forum but.. If that does not send chills down your spine, you're probably in the wrong hobby. Play the 'Galloping Ghost P51 Air Racer, listen to the Idle and a few high speed passes, and let me know what Y'all think.. [link=http://www.kolmengines.com/IL200-beim-Warbirdtreffen-in-Oberhausen.117.0.html]Galloping Ghost P51 Air Racer[/link] BTW, it's a 30% scale P51 powered by a prototype 200 CC inline 3 4 stroke gasser. Phenomenal.. -François
Posted on: 7/29/2011 1:24 PM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10645334

RE: Cox 049 Tee Dee & Medallion Starter Springs now available
Nice, it's so easy to hit and bend the NV using a chicken stick on the Medallion Merci Bernie [8D]
Posted on: 7/28/2011 7:37 AM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10643024

RE: Dang, broke my Extra
[quote]A Norvel .074 or Enya .09 would save 3 - 4 ounces, but neither of those are going to hover a 30oz plane[/quote] Mine does climb straight-up (Very slowly) / hovers / and Torque Rolls with the Enya .09 I have to admit that I did take a few steps to keep it as light as possible but it's still about 28-30 ounces ready to fly Here's a video of it torque rolling (On skis :-) : [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOyymJZ1x7Y[/youtube] The Torque Rolls are a little marginal with the added weight of the K&S Sheet brass skis (Compared to the foam wheels) but it still did it. I have also crashed it a few times, the last time an aileron servo failed, and it went down hard from pretty high.. I was still able to fix it and fly again the same day. Here's the crash: [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OO27daheY_4&NR=1[/youtube] -François
Posted on: 7/27/2011 12:12 PM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10641663

RE: Where does one obtain Cox fuel in Canada?
It's true that it's fairly messy, but as crazy as it sounds my 28-30 % high oil content mix truly showed more power / more consistent runs, I tried less oil and with my lean mixtures and demanding flight patterns, I was getting fuel boiling issues (Black Widow integrated tanks) and harder re-starts when still hot. I have also worn-out some crankcases prematurely, all that might be a factor of the larger 6X3 props I like to use which put more radial load on the crankcase and possibly make the engines run hotter by virtue of a higher load factor. As another data point, (the other side of the messy oil exhaust story): I have heard from folks that run highly strung 2 strokes (Full size) racing motocross bikes (They swear by Klotz Benol) and the saying goes that a big part of the cooling and protection comes from the un-burned stuff that gets spit out of the exhaust.. That makes sense to me, if I can get the benefits and without varninshing or black coated glow plugs issues ( Over several hundred flights) I'm willing to live with wiping a heavier coat of oil off the plane.. I have an old un-opened gallon jug of "Blue Thunder" 40% Nitro car fuel left over from my 1/10 touring car racing days, I might give that a try one of those days.. I understand that not everybody makes the same demands from their engines, to each his own [;)]
Posted on: 6/14/2011 7:37 PM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10574501

RE: Where does one obtain Cox fuel in Canada?
Sorry I'm a little late to the party, I was traveling on business.. As mentionned on many of my prior posts, I use PowerMaster Heli 30% Nitro and I add an additional 10% Benol or Castor (Benol is better) . I am sure that any other brand Heli Mix would work well. Heli mixes are designed for high rpm's high temps. Here's the total mix (By Volume) when I'm done: - Nitro 27% - Benol / Castor 15% - Synthetic Oil 15% - Total Oil 30% - Other 02% - Methanol 41% I am including the Excel Calculator I wrote for this as well which contains my "Secret Formula" for the Enya. To Bernie's comment: I am running an "astonishing" 30% oil and according to the old folklore that would lead to varnishing issues on the cylinder / piston, especially in warm and humid climates . I am here to tell y'all that it does not get much hotter / more humid than Georgia summers and 450 + flights have shown that there are no issues whasoever with varnishing. This is likely due to modern fuels detergents. As for power, my Black Widows turn 15,500-16,000 (Cox 6 X 3) and the Medallion turns 18,500 - 19,000 on that same prop. About the pharmacy castor oil versus the Sig "De-gummed" stuff or Benol > My testing has shown that it's true that the pharmacy stuff will gum-up your engines [:o] Being the cynical / incredulous guy that I am, I thought that the "Gum" in the Walmart castor oil was an old wives tale but after running it for several dozen flights, the reed became "sticky" and the engine was not running consistently. After going to Benol, the issues disapeared. Front induction engines like an Enya or Tee Dees might not get affected I have not tested those on Walmart castor. I am truly happy with my formula. I run my engines at the absolute max performance with the leanest possible mixture at all times and the extra oil keeps'em cool and protected. After I went to that mix (And using 6 X 3 props), re-setting the ball joint is a once or twice in a lifetime occurance. PS: To run my Excel file: Rename it to: Fuel Mix Calc2.XLSX XLSX files are not supported for upload so I got around it by renaming it with a TXT extension. Same here, I like the "Mad Scientist" feel of mixing the fuels. -François
Posted on: 6/10/2011 7:03 AM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10566395

RE: Large PAW diesels?
I had mine on a smaller plane that needed some speed to fly and the 12 X 10 Zinger was the best prop for it. I was getting 8200 rpms which would translate to 77 mph theoretical speed. The 12 inch diameter was large enough to produce decent thrust while not overloading the engine and allow it to rev while the 10 inch pitch gave enough speed to gather some momentum (Enough for decent climbs and medium size loops). For a little more thrust and still a theoretical 59 or so MPH, I got 7900 rpms out of a 13 X 8 APC. The high pitches allowed to turn the torque into (some) speed. You might want to try that when you get more experienced with the plane. I tried about 6 props ranging from 15 X 6 to 12 X 10 and the plane went from practically un-flyable (15 X 6) to a becoming a decent performer (12 X 10).
Posted on: 6/9/2011 8:16 AM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10564834

RE: Cox 010 RC plane?
I see, so there was no beam going along the spar from 2nd or so rib to the other side connecting the wing roots together. Instead, it was a "Butt join" to the center section shown on the prior picture right?
Posted on: 5/31/2011 1:40 PM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10550283

RE: Cox 010 RC plane?
Too bad about "structural issue" it was flying beautifully. What did you use as covering? Do you have some pics of the breakage ? The fuselage looked pretty well triangulated from the earlier pictures. I did not picture an .020 as an over-powering monster [:D] I guess I'll keep that in mind when I finally build the plane for mine.
Posted on: 5/31/2011 12:16 PM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10550152

RE: Large PAW diesels?
My PAW .60 i just as described on the earlier posts. It does not have much power but I did get it to throttle and run as well is it could by picking an "In between" carb setting and running the compression a bit on the high side. Eric Clutton says to reduce the compression to the point where the exhaust is light and "straw" colored, mine had just a bit of chocolate color to it. It's far from knocking but not quite as "Loose" as what is preferred by Eric. I ran it a bunch that way and have not seen any signs of distress. That way, I could let it idle for a minute or 2 and still have clean acceleration. That's more than enough for my flying as I only "truly" Idle for a few seconds after rounding the final turn before landing and while going downhill after vertical maneuvers. I do have to clarify "Clean Acceleration": It's not an instant zoom-up like a glow, more like a steady and progressive acceleration, as if there was a heavy flywheel attached to the engine. Not quite the response for 3D flying but good enough for touch and goes and last minute landing aborts. It's a nice engine but If I bought another diesel .60, it would be an MVVS .61
Posted on: 5/27/2011 11:55 AM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10543533

RE: ID this plane and advise engine size
Same here, I have actually never been shot down from interference. All my radio related failures have been caused by receiver battery or servo issues, neither could have been addressed by 2.4 Ghz. Actually, 2.4 ghz receivers can be even more sensitive to battery health as a voltage drop caused by an over-active servo can cause the receiver to go into "Brown-out" / re-boot and leave you without control during the re-boot process.. On top of that, most of the newer aftermarket receivers have very sophisticated algorithms to recognize your receiver's "signature" and effectively reject everything else. As for flying at a busy field and dealing with "checked-out" channels, it's better now than it has ever been on 72 mhz! EVERYBODY else has moved to 2.4 ghz which leaves you all alone to hog the 72 mhz frequncy of your choice all day long [:D]
Posted on: 5/27/2011 8:15 AM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10543213

RE: Cox 049 RPM ???
WIth a Cox 049, low nitro will give you low power at any temperature. In fact, low temps (Up to a point) should give you more power as the air is denser and engine cooling is improved (You can get away with a little leaner mixture). For those little guys 25% is good and 30% nitro is even better as it makes for easy starts, more power, and a less sensitive needle. If I remember right, the Cox "Basic" sport fuel was 25% nitro and the "racing" fuel was 35% Nitro.
Posted on: 5/25/2011 4:38 AM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10539421

RE: Plumbing
It depends on the application: For the .25 and larger planes with basic engines, I have an inline filter between the fuel can and the tank. (None onboard) For my Heli and my YS powered plane, the added weight of an onboard filter is worth it as engine flame-outs and Helis don't mix well and the YS's fuel injection system / one way pressure valve are particularly sensitive to foreign matter. My 049's and my .09's require the added Benol or Castor oil mix so I use a 1/2 quart race car filler bottle as mixing / filling container. Same deal for Diesels as the stuff is particularly sensitive to heat and humidity This way, only small batches are exposed to outside conditions of heat a humidity and filters are unecessary. (Same online filters used to go from the gallon to the mixing bottle)
Posted on: 5/24/2011 12:22 PM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10538322

RE: Enya Gasoline Engine with Glow Plug
Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love Enya engines, I own 4 of them, have owned Enyas since the early 80's. But, please explain to me how a plain Jane 2 strokes with a basic weed eater type Walbro carb is so much "Higher end" than the aformentionned world beating fuel injected / supercharged YS offering? More specifically: where do you see enough content, performance, and value to justify almost 2X the price? Here's another data point: An OS 160 FX weighs 30% less and makes 10% more power at about 1/3 the price. Please spare me the "Enyas never wear out" tales. I have worn out an Enya to the point of zero compression / thrown crankshaft. Enyas do last for a while but wear-out just like all others. It's not necessarily about the dollar figure my friend, it's about the VALUE.
Posted on: 5/19/2011 12:33 PM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10529462

RE: Enya Gasoline Engine with Glow Plug
It's supposed to be out tomorrow, just got an email from Enya Direct about it today. I was really disapointed to see that the price is set at JPY 89,800 which loosely translates to about US $1100.00. I was thinking about it for one of my planes and It's cool, but definitely not Eleven Hundred bucks cool. Just think about a Fuel Injected / Supercharged / all signing and dancin' YS DZ170 at full retail for $690.00 Mr. Ken better revise his pricing strategy if he's expecting to sell this thing..
Posted on: 5/19/2011 10:00 AM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10529411

RE: Aint no show car its a MUSTANG
2000 GT Streetable Track toy. Modded for Road Racing to NASA TTC Specification. Mild Engine mods, full race suspension / brakes. 2008 NASA Southeast TTC Champion, HPDE / Track Days sleeper. Here's a link to some of my my track videos: [link=http://www.youtube.com/user/TorqueAholic?feature=mhee#p/u/2/qku_TptFwaY]My Videos[/link] -François
Posted on: 5/19/2011 9:27 AM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum "Cars & Trucks - Full Scale"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10529356

RE: Ys 45 2-stroke
How fresh is your check valve? That'd be the 1st place I look. Beyond that, take the pump apart and make sure everything is clean / gaskets tight and clean / pay particular attention to the plunger / little silicone nipple. When all's right those YS's are some of the most consistent running engines you'll see. The throttle response should be flawless and instantenous every time. Also, there could be a foreign matter in one of the small fuel / air passages in the carb / pump body. A piece of monofilament fishing line works well to clear those up. Instructions Attached -François
Posted on: 5/19/2011 8:18 AM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum "Tachometer Readings"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10529208

RE: What 1:1 car do you drive.
My Daily Driver is a Saab 900 SE Convertible. My track toy is a NASA TTC Prep'd 2000 Mustang GT. 2008 Nasa Southeast TTC Champion and HPDE sleeper..
Posted on: 5/19/2011 7:48 AM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum "Cars & Trucks - Full Scale"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10529215

RE: Air Lite by Aero Technologies
The specs say 44 ounces, it won't be a hovering machine but should fly decently. I'd fly it with a MAS 8 X 3 combat prop to give it as much vertical authority as possible. I would take every possible step to minimize weight. Aero Products makes a nice lightweight tongue muffler for the Enya .09 that increases HP while taking almost 1 ounce from the power package, its'a big help (If a little noisier), 15% Nitro would help too. You might want to consider a .15 or a .25 if you want unlimited vertical, more 3D like performance. Here's the link I found for the specs [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/product_guide/kitspecs.cfm?kit_id=4462]Air Lite[/link]
Posted on: 5/19/2011 5:47 AM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10529044

RE: cox .010 apreciation thread
If you're having cranks made, You might want to consider a round intake window instead of square as shown by Mr. Cox on an earlier post. The square intake window's corners have been known to induce cracks. Just a thought..
Posted on: 5/16/2011 1:15 PM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10523622

RE: cox .010 apreciation thread
If you really want to throttle a "Micro" Cox, Your idea of the .020 is the better one, get a Tee Dee 020 and install that sleeve/ cylinder / piston combo you have on it. The Tee Dee 020 runs more consistently and has far more power than the Pee Wee and responds very well to the throttle. Honestly, I have both and the Tee Dee 020 is only about 9-10 grammes heavier than the Tee Dee 010 for about twice the power.. Don't get me wrong, I love the 010 but with so little power, what's the point of throttling it any way? I think a very light 2 channel rig with Ailerons / Elevator is just the ticket for an entertaining little plane powered by that little rascal.
Posted on: 5/13/2011 9:35 PM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10518695

RE: cox .010 apreciation thread
HI Nitro, I hate to break it to you but functional .010 throttles are pretty much made out of Unobtainium these days.. I looked into it fairly extensively and there used to be a company called Micro-Flite that claimed they had the solution, but never really delivered and went out of business. One of guys one the forum here was one of their official testers and his results were pretty much inconclusive. Something like : If it idled well it was lacking top-end and when top-end was maxed it did not idle / transition well or something to that effect. There is a guy on Youtube who's got a pretty kooky looking system with twin exhaust pipes (Yes, on an 010) and he claims that would work for a car.. I contacted him asking to see if I could get such a system, you have to provide your engine and he'll mod it.. I asked him if it had been tested on anything and I did not get a reply. I think you can actually see most of his "Testing" on Youtube, I'll spoil the plot for you: Just bench running with a flywheel and giving it a few quick short bursts.. How and if that would actually fly is anybody's guess (The "system" is bulky and looks like it weighs about as much as the engine itself). Search for "The mouse that roared" on Youtube.. The only solution that have seemed to work decently was in fact, a throttle ring. Some of the online shops used to carry them but they are long gone.. I have had a search on ebay for such a sleeve for about 3 months and so far.. Zip. Good luck -François
Posted on: 5/12/2011 7:14 PM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10516744

RE: cox .010 apreciation thread
Honestly George, I don't know.. I just got interested in the .010 enough to buy one (or 2 [:)]) in the past 6 mos. The 1st one I bought came with the integrated tank and no external tank mount, go figure. Of course, I'm buying used stuff that's likely to be 40+ years old.. Based on my bench running, unless you're into FF the integrated tank is pretty much useless as the miniature fury runs a grand total of 1 memorable minute.. So I found a tankless mount for the one you see mounted on the "Rig" to be used when I mount it on a plane (which could very well be a Wee One). François
Posted on: 5/6/2011 10:32 AM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10505002

RE: cox .010 apreciation thread
"Classy Little Stunt Job" indeed. I love it. Just the ticket for the backyard. Thanks George. -Francois
Posted on: 5/5/2011 4:23 AM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10502480

RE: House of balsa P-51 new kits
I have one, it's still in the box as there are a couple other projects ahead of it in the queue.. You are correct, the canopy / turtle deck is a one piece clear plastic affair and the there is no cowling at all. You simply shape the top and sides of the soft balsa nose to fit your spinner and mount the engine inverted with the entire bottom part of the nose open. The opening should be pretty invisible whille looking at the plane from the top / sides . I think it's brilliant as it sidesteps all the access and cooling issues associated with a 'Proper" Cowling while still having reasonably close to scale looks from normal viewing angles. As for my setup: - I have a brand new Enya .11 CX Ultra Diesel I ordered from Japan and I will also use the Robart 600 series retracts instead of the recommended 123 series. I read that the 123's tend to bend easily and my field is very rough. I wonder how much heavier the air kit is? That seems so much cooler..
Posted on: 5/4/2011 10:29 AM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10501127

RE: Cox 049 RPM ???
Roger that CP, both my Black Widows (Std Ventury size / OEM screen) run around 20,000 RPM on a 5 X 3 Cox Prop using a similar 30% nitro , Galbreath Head, Nelson Medium Plug, and 1 shim
Posted on: 5/3/2011 3:41 PM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10499646

RE: Cox 049 RPM ???
I second rrragman, plus you may not have enough oil content which will make it run a bit hot and get a little tight. My 049's behaved similarly until I added about 11% castor / Benol to my fuel.
Posted on: 5/3/2011 12:58 PM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10499483

RE: cox .010 apreciation thread
Using the fuel tubing to seal the needle (As per the pic on the earlier post) I hardly have to touch the needle at all.. Certainly, once it's set for the day, it's done. Most times I did not even touch it from one day (Or weeks) to the next. It almost always start within 2 -3 flips. For example I just ran it this morning. It starts in a couple flips and runs perfectly at 7 turns, that's within about 1/8 turn from last time I ran it 2 months ago.. About the optimal needle setting: Since no one is running the Cox fuel as per the instructions anymore, your setting can be very different from the Cox recommended 5 turns. The mixture is ultimately controlled by the fuel's viscosity and therfore if you use a "thicker" fuel (Like my special mix of 30% nitro Heli fuel with 11% Benol Added) less fuel will flow for a given opening size than it would for a thinner fuel. Another factor is the % nitro used, that affects the stoichiometry of the mix and more / less air will be needed. That also partially explains why you need slightly richer settings in cold weather as the lower embient temps tend to make the oil thicken therfore restricting the fuel flow past the needle. For what it's worth, here's my starting procedure: - Fill with syringe and observe fuel line, fuel will flow in the carb when you get to the tank's overflow. - If enough fuel went in to clear the bubbles while fueling-up it's primed. just flip it. If not, either drip one drop of fuel in the exhaust port or block the intake with your finger and turn the prop 1 or 2 turns (Enough to clear the bubbles in the line) - If it's flooded (Just "farting" a couple pops or running real rich for like 1 second) blow into the exhaust port / flip again - If it's lean and just burn the prime, open 1/4 turn and try again - Once it's running open the needle until it runs rich then back-off 1/8 - 1/4 turn / let it run for a while and repeat until pretty steady but not quite even (Very slightly rich). That will get you in the ballpark, see how it flys and fine tune accordingly. It should be slightly rich on the ground as it will unwind in flight and need a little more fuel to compensate for the added flight RPM's So for me, the optimal setting for running happens to be the optimal setting for starting as well. Again, if I do touch the needle, it moves between 1/4 and 1/8 turn or less. That is by the way, how I tune all my engines
Posted on: 5/3/2011 8:24 AM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10498771

RE: 1/2a Pusher - Cox black Widow
It looks like the weight is in the ballpark. The Sig Hummer has similar wing area and weight and is purported to be a fine flyer. It's just that 2.5 ounces is a huge 16% of the total weight of the plane.. Keeping that weight off the aircraft will improve every performance aspect significantly, so much that I would even consider elongating the nose to minimize how much you have add if any at all.. As for launches it seems the plane is a natural for hand launches / belly landings with the engine mounted on top. Also, the absence of an undercarriage helps keeping the weight down as well.
Posted on: 5/2/2011 7:36 AM by Author "R/C Phile" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10496628