RE: HELP!!!! Need manual.... Extra 300s
Eldad, Actually found the manual quite quickly. The original manual is a pretty lousy xerox to begin with but I'll scan it at work on Tuesday (Monday's a holiday around here) and email it to you. Its definitely the same kit as you have (Quadrotech). I don't remember if the kitted multiple wing spans or not but mine is 69.25" and made for a 90-1.08 2 cycle. Tony
Posted on: 8/31/2012 2:31 PM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11212872

RE: HELP!!!! Need manual.... Extra 300s
No, its not a Byron. At the moment I forget who made it but I just happend to have its twin sitting unfinished in my basement. I definitely have the manual. It just may take me a couple of days to lay my hands on it. Tony
Posted on: 8/31/2012 1:51 PM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11212845

RE: OS Max 91fx Shutting off above 3/4 throttle, HELP!
Either the high speed needle is too lean or the fuel flow is being restricted by the tank. Have you checked for kinks in the brass tubing and are you running at least medium size fuel tubing? I run my 91 with an OS 8 and 15% Cool Power and its been a flawless engine for many years. Another possibility is if you are running an after-market muffler. The pressure tap may not be feeding enough pressure to the tank for full-throttle runs, particularly if your tank is not up against the firewall.
Posted on: 7/20/2012 3:30 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11162195

RE: Wing Bolts Help
If your belly pan is not too deep, and you're not terribly weight concious, the caps off of ZAP CA make good guide tubes. Just drill a hole in the top of the cap to pass your bolt through and install upside down.
Posted on: 7/20/2012 3:21 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11162191

RE: WACO YMF
Joe, My 1/5 scale and 1/4 scale cabin WACOs are done that way. Drilled a hole in the brass control arm, slipped it on the wire, and slid a wheel collar (with the chrome plating wire-brushed off) on each side of the brass arm. The wheel collars give some extra surface area for soldering, both on the brass arm and on the music wire. The whole mess is then soldered together with Stay-Brite. I've never had an issue with it and my friend also does it this way with some of his planes having 10 or more years on them. Tony
Posted on: 6/29/2012 7:15 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11136381

RE: Dummy radial detailing...
Nested brass tubes make a reasonable spark plug. Use a short length (1/8" or so) for the base of the plug and a longer piece nested inside (3/8" or so). Your hobby shop or ACE hardware should have K&S brass tubing (K&S). Any black wire that will slip fit into the longer brass tube will work for the plug wire. Radio Shack will have it if you don't have any laying around. I use 4-40 nuts (again your local hobby shop should have them) at the bottom of the push rod tubes and drill them out to accept the push rod tube (not easy to hold them while drilling but doable).
Posted on: 6/16/2012 8:27 PM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11120770

RE: right hand turn on take off
Give the plane a push on your garage floor with the receiver and transmitter turned on. If it doesn't roll straight you need to work on your wheels. Either the nose wheel or tail wheel is cocked or one of your main wheels is likely binding.
Posted on: 6/16/2012 8:19 PM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11120761

RE: Reciprocating Balsa Slotter
I've had good success taking fine-toothed hacksaw blades. Break or cut them into multiple short lengths. Then stack enough together to get the slot width you're looking for, secure them (glue works fine) and add some type of handle (if you're so inclined). You can even put stops on the sides of the blade with wood or tape so that you can only saw down to the correct depth that you're looking for. Nice clean cut, consistent width, and its all done in one pass. No having to go back and clean out the slot.
Posted on: 3/31/2012 11:53 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11022551

RE: WACO YMF
I mounted an OS 1.60 twin in mine. Fits perfectly, is a very good match power-wise, and sounds great too. There's about 1/2" clearance between the cylinder heads and the side of the cowl. I only had to cut about a 1/2" notch out of the center rear trailing edge of the cowl to let my 2 brass tube exhaust extenders slip out below the cowl bowl. Because the 1.60 has a very short integral motor mount, I did have to build a ply box to push the engine forward an inch or so. I also built a semi (very semi) scale tail wheel from brass and a Dubro 1 1/2" tail wheel. If you plan to mount an after market tail wheel, be aware that the balsa towards the tail post is not very thick or hard. My tail wheel screws pulled loose after a dozen flights or so. I ended up cuttting out a 2 inch length of balsa out to the side stringers, epoxied a 1/8 ply plate to the stringers and then filled the hole with fairly hard balsa. Also, a little cockpit coaming really dresses up the cockpit openings.
Posted on: 3/31/2012 7:21 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11022265

RE: WACO YMF
Jaybird, Just a note. The GP manual has you "Y" together the top wing ailerons and "Y" together the bottom wing ailerons. If you do so, you lose the ability to use your radio's aileron differential function and will have to set it up mechanically. If you're going to use any Y harnesses, I would do them left side and right side rather than top and bottom. Also, might as well reinforce the center seam on your wheel pants before you install them. I think most folks have had the seam split after a couple of hard landings. Same problem with the landing gear fairings but I'm not sure there's a way to reinforce them until after they split. Minor problems on an otherwise very nice plane.
Posted on: 3/30/2012 8:39 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11021102

RE: Redundant Receivers?
Two receivers is definitely an added margin of safety and is worth it in the larger, more expensive planes. I have a 100cc Carden that has 2 receivers, switches and batteries splitting the left and right sides of the plane. I did have 1 receiver fail in flight and was able to bring the plane in safely with just the right hand side working. The plane is still flying today and it sure as heck wouldn't have been without the dual receivers.
Posted on: 3/13/2012 4:25 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10998145

RE: Need ideas for painting N-numbers, logos, etc
I've been using Stits fabric and polytone paints for my last couple of builds. For doing straight forward masks, like N numbers, I just lay down a couple of overlapping strips of the 4" wide blue masking tape on a long strip of wax paper. I print out the numbers off my computer, tape them down on top of the masking tape, cut them out, and transfer the remaining mask to the plane. With a fabric covering, unless you've completely filled the weave you're likely to have some minor bleeding in spots but if your striping your numbers, even with 1/16" tape, then all sins are hidden. Also, first spraying several light coats of the base color along the edges of the mask help to minimize the risk of bleeding.
Posted on: 2/15/2012 5:37 PM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10960877

RE: WACO YMF
Stickbuilder, Just a clarification. Although the engine is not offset, most WACOs have the vertical fin offset to compensate for the engine torque. I don't know for sure about the YMF but the early open cockpit WACOs do (for instance the WACO 10) and the Cabin models do also. Most were set to about 2-3 degrees. Fundamentally, I'm not sure there is a lot of difference between straight engine/offset fin or offset engine/straight fin. If the kit doesn't build in an offset fin, then the model will likely need/benefit from engine offset.
Posted on: 1/24/2012 8:37 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10924992

RE: WACO YMF
You can remedy the assembly time of the GP WACO by soldering the nuts to the brackets for the cabane and interplane struts. There's a thread on the GP WACO under the ARF/RTF forum that explains how to do it. I used regular 4-40 nuts although some people have had luck using the lock nuts without melting the plastic core. I even went as far as to solder the washers to the bolts which makes assembly even faster. I had tried assembly once in my basement and said this aint going to work at the field. Now its a snap. 5-minutes or less.
Posted on: 1/9/2012 2:15 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10899245

RE: Trainer cord buddy box
No such animal as a "2.4 cord". The cord just carries power to the buddy box and stick position commands from the buddy box to the master. It doesn't know/care about the transmitting/receiving technology. Your cord needs to be compatible with the Spektrum radio. I believe JR also uses the same cord.
Posted on: 9/14/2011 8:20 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10716140

RE: GP Waco?
Yeah, unfortunately GP didn't design the plane with wing tubes in mind. With my Double Vision, I can leave the left and right side wing pairs assembled, just slide them on the wing tubes, and 2 bolts later I'm ready to fly. Still, its a great little plane and the more the more I fly it, the more I like it.
Posted on: 7/1/2011 12:39 PM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10601650

RE: GP Waco?
Well, I seem to be losing all patience as I get older. Although the plane is now a snap to assemble at the field with the nuts soldered to the brackets, putting all those little 4-40 washers on the bolts everytime was starting to drive me crazy, not to mention that the washers seem to want to stick to the painted struts on dis-assembly. So I've now soldered all the washers to the bolts so there's absolutely no fumbling around. Can't think of much else to do except maybe design a folding attach point for the N-struts to make it easier to transport with the struts still attached to one wing. Will let you know what I come up with.
Posted on: 7/1/2011 4:41 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10601057

RE: GAS VS GLOW
The other considerations besides engine weight are how badly you'll have to butcher the cowl to fit the larger engine and will you have ground clearance for the larger prop. Not much sense putting a DLE-30 in if you don't have the extra 1 1/2" of clearance. You'll just end up struggling to find a good prop for the engine in a shorter diameter, higher thrust model than you would normally want on the engine.
Posted on: 6/25/2011 2:10 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10591336

RE: GP Waco?
OK, here's a picture of the soldered on 4-40 nuts that I used in place of the supplied lock nuts. I didn't bother roughing up the brackets because they were so nice and shiny I didn't want to ruin the look. All I did was to remove the bracket from the plane, wipe it down with alcohol to remove any grease and then put some flux around the hole where the nut would be attached. Then, I took an alloy (black) 4-40 socket head screw (solder won't adhere to them) and a normal 4-40 nut and screwed them onto the bracket so the 4-40 nut was where the lock nut would normally go. Heat it up with your soldering iron and run a bead of solder around the nut. After its cooled down, remove the socket head bolt and reinstall the bracket on your plane. Simple If your upper wing is already glued together (like mine was), you'll have to solder the nuts for the 4 upper cabane brackets with the brackets installed in the wing because there's no way to get them off wing. I did it and didn't have any problem. Just keep a damp rag handy and as soon as you take the soldering iron away, you can use the damp rag to wick the heat away from the bracket. Just don't hit the covering with the soldering iron. If you're worried about your soldering skills, the worst thing that will happen is that the nut will fall off when you take the plane apart and you can re-solder it. Its not going to come off in flight. I have probably 8 flights so far and haven't had any problem with mine.
Posted on: 6/23/2011 4:27 PM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10589073

RE: GP Waco?
Give me a day or two to get some pictures and post them with an explanation. It was really quite simple. Also, for those of you setting up the aileron servo connections to Y together the servos as top-wing/bottom-wing, rather than left-side/right-side, while you'll only have 1 wire exiting the top wing, you do lose the ability to electronically mix your aileron differential and will be forced to do it mechanically.
Posted on: 6/22/2011 5:30 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10586443

RE: GP Waco?
I'm surprised this plane isn't getting more attention. Its a really good looking plane (show stopper at the field), well-engineered, and flies well although I suppose the price may be keeping people away. I just maidened mine this past weekend and couldn't be happier. I used an OS 1.60 twin which fits the cowl perfectly and has just the right amount of power. I did have to build a motor box because of the short, integral motor mount that the 1.60 comes with but it was pretty straightforward. The only change I made was to discard the lock nuts that are supplied for all of the strut attach points and instead soldered 4-40 nuts to the brackets. Makes assembly and disassembly a snap and they actually hold better than the lock nuts. I also installed the Foremost Cockpit Coaming like ACF did and it really dresses up the cockpit openings. Well worth the buck or two.
Posted on: 6/21/2011 3:09 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10584691

RE: 30 cc biplane?
I think the new Great Planes WACO YMF includes instructions and templates to take a DLE-30. Good looking ARF but expensive at $480 or so.
Posted on: 6/16/2011 8:31 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10576984

RE: quick radio question
Count them up: 2 - Ailerons 2 - Elevator Halves 1 - Rudder 1 - Throttle 1 - Smoke 1 - Choke (optional) 1 - Optical Kill Switch (optional) So, 7 mandatory and 2 optional channels, depending on how you set up the plane. If you set up the choke on a channel, that can also be used to kill the engine. although not as good as an optical kill switch.
Posted on: 3/22/2011 2:39 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10415237

RE: Gyro?
Gyros are typically allowed, although only on the rudder/steering control. From Scale Masters rule book [b]14. A gyro may be used on rudder control only.[/b][i][/i] From the Top Gun rule book [i][b]A. Rate gyros are allowed to aid in rudder and steering control only. Rate gyros are NOT allowed to aid the control of ANY other surface or function.[/b][/i] Not sure about the NATS but I would be surprised if they were not allowed in Scale.
Posted on: 12/13/2010 5:58 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10193935

RE: Solartex and Poly-Tak
I'd check with Chip Mull at F&M Enterprises. With Stits covering, the Poly-Tak is put down wet, in very small sections (10" or so), the covering laid on the wet surface, and then the covering is adhered by trying to get the Poly-Tak to come up through the weave with a dry brush. The Poly-Tak is also very thick so I thin it down with MEK to make it easier to work with. If it gets on top of the covering, Poly-Tak can leave some bumpy residue. Wiping those areas down with a rag lightly dampened with MEK will help smooth it out.
Posted on: 9/30/2010 5:37 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10037378

RE: WINTER PROJECTS 2010/2011
1/4 scale WACO YKC-S
Posted on: 9/16/2010 7:02 PM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10007396

RE: Need Help With CG Determination
Thanks to all, especially LNEWQBAN, for some great information. Will run some calculations and give it another shot. Stay tuned. Tony
Posted on: 7/14/2010 5:10 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9864021

Need Help With CG Determination
I maidened an plane for a gentleman the other day (his own design) and it was a beast. Although the elevon throws were overly sensitive, in both roll and pitch, I think the primary problem was a rearward CG as opposed to too much throw. At cruise speed, which was about 1/4 throttle with an MVVS up front swinging a 12x6 at about 18,000 rpm, the plane was sensitive but relatively controllable. and I was able to get in several circuits and trim the plane without too much difficulty. However, when slowing the plane for landing the pitch control became significantly more sensitive to the point that pulling back a click on the elevator would put the nose at about 60 degrees and likewise pushing a click would put the nose down about 60 degrees. As a result, the only way I could attempt to manage the glide slope for landing was to throttle back to try to get the nose down which then would result in a nasty tip stall to the left. About 20 attempts later, I did finally get it down without damage but I think it was more luck than skill. Before this thing goes back up, I want to make sure the CG is really correct. I had checked it on the ground and it seemed ball park to me, at least for a normal plane, but cursory research indicates that a tail-less plane may require a significantly more forward CG than a conventional design. Currently, the plane balances at the front most tan stripe on the wing tip. Is there a CG calculator out there that handles this type of planform or is there a good rule of thumb that I can apply. Thanks, Tony
Posted on: 7/13/2010 5:58 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9861679

RE: [Awaiting Approval]
Time for me to join the Brotherhood as well. 1/5 scale ykc-s under my belt and a 1/4 scale in process. Thanks, Tony
Posted on: 7/5/2010 5:47 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9845324

RE: Engine Recommendation for 1/4-scale Cub?
I have a G-26 with an 18x6 prop on mine and it is completely reliable but it is over-powered for scale flight. Typically I'm well below half throttle. A 20cc gas engine is probably adequate for scale flight. The best match I've seen for the 1/4 scale cubs is an OS or Magnum 1.60 twin. They're glow powered but they look much more scale sitting in the cowl with the heads sticking out where they should be and they sound more realistic as well.
Posted on: 7/5/2010 5:25 AM by Author "RBACONS" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9845316