RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: rowdyjoe Hobbsy,      I received the engine in the condition you described (no oil mess present) and there is no indication that it is anything other than pristine.  It has outstanding compression and pulls very strong and I'm sure the cooling issue is due to the tight cowl fit and my inexperience.  I do not fault the engine.  It's working as it should and I'm very proud to be the owner.       My more knowledgealbe flying friends all agree that it's an airflow issue and I came to the conclusion today that my 14x6 prop may be too big to be running on this engine in ambient temps over 100 deg. F.  I am replacing that prop with a 13x8 and am looking forward to better cooling as the engine will build more RPM and not have to work as hard.     I also bought a gallon of 30% nitro 23% lube heli fuel today (man, that stuff is pricey) and I believe it helped.  It ran great on the first flight but, thereafter the engine would die about mid-way through the flight (6 or 7 min.).  Although the engine was very warm when I landed (no damage to the plane upon 3 deadsticks) I don't think it was hot enough to make it quit.  So, I will remove the fuel tank and make sure the clunk isn't sticking/hanging-up.      I need to find a way to funnel more air directly at the cylinder and will be looking for ideas.  I'll take some pictures of the situation when I get the cowl off so everyone will be able to see what I'm seeing. Oh, one more note:  After the engine died while in flight and upon refueling and restarting the engine, it took a few seconds for the fuel to pump back up to the carb as if ii had run out of gas.  Normally, it will take just a bump from the starter to start running.  That's why I think I may have a sticking clunk or ?????.   Sincerely, RJ [/quote] Make sure that the area for the air to escape from the cowl is much larger than the intake. Otherwise, the air will stagnate in the cowl and heat up. I flew in Phoenix, AZ for year with temps well above 100 and didn't have any overheating problems except for dumb mistakes!
Posted on: 7/20/2012 10:33 AM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11162575

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
that can ship items very inexpensive. I can also ship bearings to you for about $5. I don't know why
Posted on: 7/20/2012 10:28 AM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11162568

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: Hobbsy Stainless would not last nearly as long as the HardChrome bearings plus... Chrome is a plating process that is not used on bearings. It is used to hard face wear areas such as cam lobes, etc. Stainless steel used in bearings is hardened to the same range as the chrome steel used in bearings. I sell many times more stainless sets than chrome steel because of the rust issue
Posted on: 7/20/2012 10:25 AM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11162562

RE: Help! front seal?
They are full contact seals. He didn't say if he removed the inside seal which is the wrong thing to do with older engines. A lot of engine manufacturers kept the front of the crankcase too short for adequate sealing so they went with a sealed bearing. [quote]ORIGINAL: Hobbsy Those rubber shields are not the seals, the real seal is the fit between the crankshaft and the crankcase. [/quote]
Posted on: 6/20/2012 10:52 PM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11126143

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
40oz is nothing for these engines. That is only 4 10oz tanks. As suggested, use an OS F plug, or a Thunderbolt long. [quote]ORIGINAL: R/C Lee Having a little trouble here. I have a new Saito .72 that I'm having trouble breaking in. I've run around 40 ounces of fuel through it, mounted on a stand, but it still won't hold an idle. I've tried adjusting the idle screw, high speed needle, everything per the manual, but to no avail. I had no trouble breaking in an earlier Saito 1.20, but this .72 has me stumped. Do I need to run more fuel through it until it holds an idle; if so, how much? I've broken in OS 4-strokes and haven't had this trouble. Is the problem with this engine, or the .72 design, or that it just needs more break-in time? I will be putting four .72's on a new Wingspan B17 and want to make sure they are reliable. At this point, I'm thinking of going with OS engines, but I'd rather not. Any advice? Thanks, Lee [/quote]
Posted on: 6/20/2012 10:46 PM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11126136

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: Hobbsy Stainless would not last nearly as long as the HardChrome bearings plus... bearings are hardened to the same Rockwell range as all bearings and will last just as long, if not longer due to no rusting. Also, there are no hard chrome bearings available for our hobby. Hard... bearings are made from a moderate chrome content steel. Stainless steel has a LOT more chrome
Posted on: 6/20/2012 10:36 PM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11126131

RE: YS .45 bearings
They take the same bearing set as the YS 50-56 heli engines, OS 46FX.AX.FSR and the Hyper series of heli engines. R6ZZ front and 6902 rear. i will add a set later today for that one
Posted on: 5/23/2012 8:57 AM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11091728

RE: Engine Bearings???
No. The silicon nitride ceramic balls are pretty much impervious to anything we would ever handle.
Posted on: 5/20/2012 6:53 PM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11088229

RE: OS 91FS
They told you what to do but not how. You need to mount the tank so that the centerline of the tank is even with the throttle barrel of the carb. With a lot of four strokes, that is difficult to do since a lot of planes are designed for two strokes where the carb is above the crank line. Like he said, mount the engine in its side will take care of a lot of the problem. When all else fails, you can use a Perry pump to provide constant fuel pressure. I had to do this on my EZ P-51 racer.
Posted on: 5/20/2012 6:50 PM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11088225

RE: engine bearing puller
I do not recommend using a torch as you have no idea what temps you are putting the case through. Strange as it sounds, both cast aluminum and hardened steels start to lose dimensional stability at around 385F. I use a small toaster oven I got at Target. I monitor the temps with an oven thermometer. No more than 350F for me.
Posted on: 5/20/2012 6:39 PM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11088211

RE: Stipped head screw fix??
This is not a long term fix but can be used in an emergency. Keep some of the solid telephone wire in your tool box. If you strip a screw, clean out the bits as best you can, then cut off a piece of the bare phone wire a little longer than enough to reach the bottom of the hole. Put it on the hole and hold it to the side while you start the screw back in. The copper will deform a little and press the opposite side of the screw into what is left of the threads. I did this for a backplate repair and forgot about it for several years!
Posted on: 5/20/2012 6:22 PM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11088195

RE: Engine Bearings???
Ohhh, where to start... AMSOIL meets or exceeds all manufacturers warranty requirements. Stainless steel bearings aren't significantly softer than bearing steel, maybe 1-2 Rockwell points. 440c... time finding chrome plated bearings! I use any brand of air tool oil as they all do the same thing: displace water from the metal and protect against corrosion. I have some bearings that I took out
Posted on: 5/20/2012 6:12 PM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11088180

RE: Stepping down the voltage of a 24v power supply
I know it may be too late for you now, but I have their 24v supply for my foam cutter. I am going to get one of these for my battery chargers: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-15A-Switching-Power-Supply-AC-DC-Converter-NEW-/110627667000?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c1ec3c38
Posted on: 12/19/2011 2:47 PM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10867003

RE: Where Have All The Kits Gone ?
A kit is coming soon! It was hilarious to watch and fly with the YS 91 and 50% nitro! Vertical launches went OOS in about 6-8 seconds! I have just finished the prototype of the new design and I am going to try electric power on it. The best combo for the earlier version was the Webra 50 and ST 51. The new Evolutions may be just the thing! Next up is a composite wing (not CF but different types of foam in a built-up technique). Oh, the airfoil is a slightly modified NACA 63a012.
Posted on: 12/19/2011 2:37 PM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10866985

RE: Where Have All The Kits Gone ?
[quote]ORIGINAL: VCScott The Ball Stick looks interesting. More info please? Scott [/quote] Its actually a BALLISTICK, the I is hard to see in that photo. That was a special covering scheme done for a customer about 5 years ago. Span: 54" Engine: .40-.55 two stroke, ,52-.72 four stroke. Weight: 4-7lbs depending on ehgine Radio: 4 channel with 5 servos recommended It was originally designed for the mighty YS 91AC. The original version was built like a tank to handle the power. As a consequence, it was fairly heavy. I have completely redesigned the wood portion to reduce weight and make it a lot easier to build. It still has a sheeted foam core wing because that is the fastest to build, strongest wing available. With a little pre-planning, this plane can easily be built in a weekend. The basic fuselage can be assembled in about 15-20 minutes.
Posted on: 12/16/2011 5:36 AM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10862083

RE: Where Have All The Kits Gone ?
Keep an eye out on my site! The Ballistick is back! Here is a ole one. [image]http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h92/desertskymodels/ballistick2.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 12/14/2011 8:17 PM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10860153

RE: Contact info
Still no reply! Another trouble ticket sent with no reply. I can assume from this that RCU only cares about money and not customer service.
Posted on: 12/14/2011 7:54 PM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Suggestions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10860122

RE: Contact info
No reply after all this time. I am cancelling my keywords. This is ridiculous!
Posted on: 9/29/2011 8:47 PM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Suggestions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10741428

RE: magnum .45 Pro won't unwind
You need to remember that when these planes were designed, engines had a bit less power than modern engines. A strong 46 of 15 years ago would be close in power to a modern 40 (if anyone made a 40 now). I think that any newer 46 would be fine on any of the 40-46 versions of the Kaos/chaos. I think if you use the 10X6 you will be fine on that plane. Also, those engines hated low nitro fuel! Strange coming from a time and place where 0% was normal. I used to have the Magnum Pro 45 which was supposed to be the same as the Royal 45. They LOOKED the same but the fit and finish, especially in the carbs, was a lot better in the Magnums. You could cure a bad runing Royal by fitting a Magnum carb.
Posted on: 8/30/2011 3:11 PM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10693883

RE: RC-Bearings Company
I have been in and out of town/state a lot for the last few weeks. i am sorry if anyone was ignored! Sometimes I do not have good internet access when I travel. Be assured that all orders will be processed quickly as we have hired people to do the shipping for us.
Posted on: 8/30/2011 2:59 PM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10693862

RE: Bearings for OS on ebay
freakingfast: I just had to check this out....and you are right! I could not find any other dealers that sell SS bearings with plastic retainers! I have mine made special for me.
Posted on: 6/27/2011 5:24 PM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10595316

RE: another problem
That is a 607-2RS sealed bearing. The bearing itself probably isn't bad but the seals have gone bad. Most car and truck engines have a very short nose area on the engine case which is poor at sealing, that's why they use sealed front bearings. Trplacing that bearing will likely cure most problems. Using any kind of silicone sealer will just cause more problems because the silicone
Posted on: 6/20/2011 11:38 AM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10583759

RE: help! help! Enya 40 cx
I would still inspect the glow element under magnification. If the element is GONE after a short run, then run the engine up to speed in the air for about 30 seconds and then look at the plug. If it is mangled, you are too high on compression or nitro. If it is not shiny (frosted) you are too lean. Also, look at the top of the piston and head. If the piston is frosty looking around the squish area, you are using too much compression or too high nitro.
Posted on: 6/20/2011 11:32 AM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10583745

RE: Bearings for OS on ebay
Not ALL eBay sellers are crooks! I have a bunch of my popular sizes on eBay now....
Posted on: 6/20/2011 11:26 AM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10583732

RE: Bearings won't come out!
If you used the prop nut to "seat the bearings" and there is still some drag, then I expect the bearing to not last as long as it should. The bearings shoud spin completely free after installation. Any drag is a sign that the bearings are not completely seated and have some axial load on them. You should never allpy any forces to the inner race to seat a bearing's outer race
Posted on: 6/20/2011 11:21 AM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10583726

RE: Bearings won't come out!
If you used the prop nut to "seat the bearings" and there is still some drag, then I expect the bearing to not last as long as it should. The bearings shoud spin completely free after installation. Any drag is a sign that the bearings are not completely seated and have some axial load on them. You should never allpy any forces to the inner race to seat a bearing's outer race
Posted on: 6/20/2011 11:20 AM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10583722

RE: Contact info
So you get an idea of how bad this is, here is a partial listing for one of my keywords.
Posted on: 6/15/2011 7:49 AM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Suggestions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10575222

RE: Contact info
I have still not heard anything back. My daily limit is set at $10 but I was charged over $400 last month. Web crawlers and robots are inflating my click count and I do not believe I should be charged for these since they are not actual customers. [b]I urge anyone who has a keyword account to check their account to see if they are also being charged for clicks not attributed to actual customers![/b]
Posted on: 6/15/2011 7:39 AM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Suggestions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10575203

RE: GMS Engine Tuning Problem
The biggest hurdle you will have getting this thing to run right will be the Pitts muffler. Most of them have too little internal volume and compensate by having too large of an exhaust opening. If yours has two outlets, try plugging one of them. If course, performance will suffer but you might find that the engine will be more reliable.
Posted on: 6/9/2011 6:17 AM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10564631

RE: Is Tower / GMS ever going to produce again?
BTW, I can get GMS engines all day long as I have contacts in China. There just isn't enough of a market for me to justify that.
Posted on: 6/2/2011 1:47 PM by Author "RC-Bearings" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10553604