RE: Mufflers for gas engines
You are under propping the engine. Try a 17X6, shd get around 8300- 8500 rpm.
Posted on: 9/17/2012 5:53 AM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11230924

RE: Great Planes Cherokee
I enjoyed mine, but I wouldn't recommend this as your "return" to flying, as it's a bit heavy with the 2 extra servos for flaps. You might get this one as your second plane, but for your first, go for a bit lighter wing loading. There is a lot to choose from that are good flyers. Welcome back.
Posted on: 9/7/2012 3:45 PM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11221106

RE: FIRST LANIER R/C AIRCRAFT
I flew several of the Lanier planes"back then". They cost around $50 - $60. They were OK flyers, but didn't last long due to the extensive use of ABS plastic which quickly became brittle and failed at critical joints such as wing hold downs, stabilizer attachment to fuse, etc. I learned to glue in doublers along such ares which helped extend the useful life but did not solve the problem. They were definately disposable planes, but I enjoyed them at the time. As for someone buying one today, perhaps for nostalgia or some personal quirk, but they can't touch the flying or build qualities of today's ARF selections. Good luck.
Posted on: 9/6/2012 2:00 PM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11219887

RE: ASP .91 > DLE-20 ??
OK, I give. How does your post have anything to do with this thread? Did I miss something?
Posted on: 9/4/2012 2:40 PM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11217426

RE: Airborne Models
In my dealings with them, they have been reliable. They have been around a long time.
Posted on: 9/1/2012 1:12 PM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11213667

RE: RANT: The
[quote]ORIGINAL: opjose Let's ALL thank the Troll!!! [size=5]THANK YOU TROLL![/size] It still will not change a thing. Look I can do it too!!! "Manufacturers CAN and SHOULD do a better job of supporting their products and customers." Nothing's changed though, and nothing will.... good luck with your campaign. [size=2]Albert Einstein Quotes. "Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results"[/size] [/quote] That's funny, but I think Azzir is getting exactly the result he wants: lots of attention.
Posted on: 8/30/2012 1:32 PM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211828

RE: RANT: The
deleted by author.
Posted on: 8/30/2012 1:28 PM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211823

RE: Want to build my first kit
SIG's 4* 40 is an excellent choice. Not only is it a good flying plane, but the kit parts fit, instructions and illustrations are second to none. A great first build. Good luck.
Posted on: 8/27/2012 4:37 PM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208228

RE: Pinch Test
You proposed setting the needle with the tank half full. You run boats. I fly airplanes, I don't set the needle with the tank half full. I fill the tank full. Do whatever "floats your boat". I do.
Posted on: 8/21/2012 5:48 PM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201449

RE: Pinch Test
[quote]ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r I set my needle with the tank half full, starting rich and pinch the fuel line and lean the needle until I get no rise in rpm. This way when the tank is full, the engine will run a little rich and as the tank runs down it will lean out. If you pinch and the engine cuts out its too lean, if it rises it's rich. No change is peak or very close to it. [/quote] Running boats, you can see the fuel tank and can readily fill it half full to set up as you indicated. And then you get to fill it some more. The pinch test is helpfull in setting up a plane engine where the tank may not be visible. The pinch test is a very very simple and effective way to check that the engine is not set too lean.
Posted on: 8/21/2012 6:43 AM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200752

RE: aging receiver failures....
Back when I was runing 72mHz, I used this RX more than any other and never had one wear out. Is there anything in your operating environment (such as unusual vibration, excessive voltage, crashes, etc) that could be causing failures? Hope you find an answer, as I think these are good equipment (untill they're not, right?).
Posted on: 8/21/2012 6:15 AM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200725

RE: 20CC: fuel flow, thrust?
[quote]ORIGINAL: gade600sdi The static thrust on the G20 is way less than the DLE20, but not sure what the absolute number. I own both of them and the DLE20 is much stronger and lower weight. Zenoah is probably better long term engine, though. As far as fuel, 8-10 ounce tank is adequate for either, any more is overkill for a 15 minute flight. [/quote] What numbers do you have? I fly the G20, and it's an impressive engine. My DLE 20 is still in the box, so I have not yet compared them.
Posted on: 8/20/2012 4:46 PM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200139

RE: Magnum XLS 61
If the engine will start at lower throttle, you are already in the ball park. You did not mention what the engine is doing that indicates you need to change the LS needle setting, but basically you just need to determine if leaner is better or richer is better from where you are now. Good luck.
Posted on: 8/17/2012 5:36 AM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11196658

RE: Hobbyking 2350mm L4 grasshopper
Sorry to hear of your shipping damage. Did you purchase from the USA warehouse?
Posted on: 8/15/2012 9:00 AM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11194355

RE: Seagull 82
I have the smaller version (71"), and it uses the same type design. There is very little nose moment, so the engine and the "heavy" stuff is not very far out in front of the balance point. Even so, I still need additional weight up front to balance. My 91 4 stroke is not a vibration problem, however. Good luck.
Posted on: 8/11/2012 12:34 PM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189501

RE: Fuji BT-32 B Magneto
The magnets need to pass the coil at speed. You can't begin the prop at compression as you would a glow engine. I set my prop to begin with the magnets about 90* before passing the coil. Good luck, it can be done.
Posted on: 8/9/2012 4:59 AM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186704

RE: Sig Koverall Application Process
All solid surfaces are not flat. Some are round, some are compound curves. Your advice to DJokr was that only open bay covering needs to be shrunk tight. Not so, at least from my experience. Your experience may differ.
Posted on: 8/8/2012 5:49 PM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186197

RE: Sig Koverall Application Process
Wrinkles can form on solid surfaces. They will shrink out with a heat gun.
Posted on: 8/6/2012 4:49 PM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11183392

RE: using Sta-bil?
What does Sta-bil do for glo fuel?
Posted on: 8/5/2012 2:40 PM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11181945

RE: Sig Koverall Application Process
[quote]ORIGINAL: LargeScale88 Hi everyone. I'm just finishing an airplane up and I've decided to cover it with Sig Koverall and nitrate dope. Having not used this covering for several years, I'm a litte rusty on the process, so I just wanted to clarify the standard process for putting this stuff on properly. Ok, heres what I can remember: 1. Apply 2 coats of unthinned nitrate dope to framework (except ribs, attatch cloth to ribs after shrinking the cloth) 2. Lay cloth down, apply two more unthinned coats to secure the cloth to the framework 3.Thin the nitrate dope about 25 thinner and 75 nitrate, using sig thinner 4. Apply 2-3 coats to seal the cloth and fill the weave 5. Apply Sig supercoat and color to finish off the model, or start painting right on top of nitrate dope to fuel proof it Can someone maybe correct me on number 1, I read and watched a video and they both stated not to attatch the cloth to the ribs until after its shrunk, and the reason being so the cloth can shrink the way it wants to, and if its tacked down, it could be "restricted" and put an unwanted warp or twist into the wing. Thanks much! Jason [/quote] 1. I use 50/50 thinned dope, both for prepping the structure and on top of the covering. The comment about connecting to the ribs after shrinking means to adhere the perimeter first, then shrink out any wrinkles, then go back and adhere (dope) the ribs. This allows the fabric to "move" when shrinking. 2., 3. 4. Again, I use 50/50 thinned, but I paint with latex, and I want the fabric to show. If I were making a "non fabric" look, I would fill the weave more. I use laquer thinner from Lowes or Home Depot with nitrate dope. Don't use it with butyrate or Stix-It, however. I also use SIG Stix-it on the structure perimeter and any areas I need axtra adhesion, such as wing tips, edges, etc. Stix-It is billed as a heat sensitive adhesive, which it is, but I think of it as "super dope". When I have the Stix-It on the framework, I can go back an touch up the adhesion with just thinner, if needed. Also, it is a good idea to "rub in" the dope as you apply it, just helps make a more positive bond. In general, I keep in mind that this product has no adhesive on the covering, I need to apply the adhesive to the framework. The principal in this technique is to apply dope over the covering so that it bleeds thru and combines with the dope already on the frame. When you apply the dope over the covering, at the perimeter edges, be sure to dope past the edge of the structure. This assures the fabric has a little fill to it so when you go to trim it, it cuts cleanly. Cutting the dry fabric gives lots of frizzy edges that you do not want. I have heard people say Koveral is a lot of work. There is a lot to do, but if you enjoy doing it, there is a lot to enjoy! So, enjoy!
Posted on: 8/5/2012 9:40 AM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11181635

RE: Skyraider Mach 1 and FS52AR engine?
I have owned two of the Mach I Skyraider. The first was for instruction and was powered with an OS 40LA. It was a terrific combination, and I found I put far more time on it flying as a sport plane than for instruction. The plane is an excellent design, a great flyer. I did not recommend it as a "first" plane because the assembly instructions are so minimal for a new flyer, and while built as a good flying plane, it is not as robust as some other trainers and might not survive some of the harsh realities of training. Trainers lead a hard life! My buddy, an experienced flyer liked it so much he bought it from me. After I sold it, I bought another. The instructions did comment on not overpowering the plane, it was designed for a .40 engine, and I found it to be good advice. Overpowering it isn't going to break anything, but the design doesn't need it, and the additional weight detracts from the flight characteristics. My buddy was fond of hovering it on the .40LA. Go figure! Both mine were set up as tail draggers. Enjoy.
Posted on: 7/30/2012 5:31 AM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11174282

RE: RANT: The
[quote]ORIGINAL: carrellh Dave, the original poster needs a wheel for a WWI airplane. I know there are people who can build this type of wheel, and come up with the right o-ring to work as a tire, but many of us cannot. [/quote] How sad. Can't build? Then buy. There are other sources for WW I wheels. The OP is trolling and getting a lot of bites. I could mention Williams Bros, but I won't, as I don't think the OP is looking for answers so much as "action".
Posted on: 7/26/2012 2:22 PM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11170346

RE: OS 1.20AX Unexplained Flameouts.......>>>
My experience with glow engines using a Pitts style muffler has been that there is insufficient muffler pressure to sustain WOT. The test for this is to see if you are able to run WOT and tune to overly rich. If you can, then you likely do not have this problem, as the tank is receiving enough muffler pressure. If it does not pass this test, the solution I have used is to plug one of the 2 exhaust stacks. Good luck.
Posted on: 7/24/2012 7:34 AM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11167176

RE: Disconect allerions on a trainer 40 ?
You need to not talk to that guy anymore.
Posted on: 7/19/2012 8:24 PM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11161972

RE: Help, want to find video...
Well, sure it taxiis well, but how good does it fly?
Posted on: 7/17/2012 6:03 AM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11158452

RE: Giant Scale crop dusters?
What makes you think it would be economical? How much does it cost to cover an acre by manned aircraft, how much by RC? Multply that by a 100. Does it get better?
Posted on: 7/17/2012 5:42 AM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11158429

RE: Reactor ARF
My first guess is that it is nose heavy, since you didn't comment on any other flight characteristics. Try moving the balance a "little more" aft.
Posted on: 7/13/2012 5:19 AM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11153583

RE: Four Star Forty dihedral
[quote]ORIGINAL: Top_Gunn Laser cutting on Sig kits is new, and a welcome development. I think Shimano's right about not noticing a change in dihedral. I built a Mid-Star 40 a couple of years ago with no dihedral, clipped wings, and an enlarged rudder, and it flies about the same as one another guy in my club built stock. If you want to make a plane like that more exciting, the way to do it is to move the CG back (slowly and carefully). [/quote] I built the 4*60 kit in 1999, and it was laser cut (my first experience with laser cut kits). Truly remarkable; I heard one description of the kit as " throw every thing in the box, add some CA, shake it, and you have a plane". Well.... almost, but not quite that simple. It's hard to fanthom why anyone would want to screw around with the 4* design (including the clip wing afficianados), but one of the joys of building is to do some thing "because I can..." Have fun!
Posted on: 7/11/2012 2:31 PM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11151730

RE: CMP sales of large zero arf
[quote]ORIGINAL: BubbasanJohn Hey flyers! Looking for a large ARF zero. Cmp looks like an ok choice. Only problem I see is that most sites selling this plane have horrible feedback for sales support. I am not a noob but with work obligations and family commitments I just don't have time to build. Any thoughts on getting my hands on a cmp large 2100mm zero delivered in good shape with the least amount of hassle? I really appreciate any feedback people have. Thanks in advance! Bubba John [/quote] OK, which are the ones you don't want to hear about?
Posted on: 7/5/2012 6:51 AM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11143726

RE: 1st U.S. RC Flight School
[quote]ORIGINAL: JohnGilmore [quote]ORIGINAL: RCVFR Nice to hear from someone with actual knowledge of the issue. [/quote] Not sure what that means ... [/quote] Referring to direct first hand knowledge of 1st U.S. Flight School rather than conjecture.
Posted on: 7/3/2012 11:04 AM by Author "RCVFR" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11141451