RE: How good is the Trinity Reference Li-Pro 4500 mAh 2S LiPo pack?
I did not have a good experience with my Li-pro. at first it was awsome better than any pack I had ever used, I blew my matched built smc3800's away by alot. but after about 15 cycles it has no punch and cut off in any of my high power setups. just my experience. I guess I had to much draw for t to handle.
Posted on: 9/7/2008 7:01 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7930232

RE: Trinity Li-Pro 4500 lipo
I have one and it sucks. I bought it and put it in my B4 with a castle 7700. For a while it was awesome. blistering speed and 20 min run times. the car was so torquey I couldn;t give it full throttle without it flipping over. now after about 15 cycles it has no punch I can get on it at all or my esc gives out, due to the cut off voltage. I tryed balancing but it didn't help. I had intended on buying many more batteries but now I think I will try some thing else. I think a little more money will get me a lot more quality. I don't now it has just been my experience. I will be keeping it to power my lower power stuff that doesn't draw as much. I ran it through two boats yesterday one one charge because I would get tired of running the boat before the battery would give out. just my $.02
Posted on: 9/7/2008 6:55 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7930219

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
Wheely king servo templates: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64145
Posted on: 2/1/2008 4:28 AM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7005821

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
What ever you do don't try a 3 cell lipo on it because all your other batteries are dead and you still want to run. If you do you will probably experience magic smoke loss like I did.[X(]
Posted on: 1/20/2008 6:33 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6940454

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
To lock the diff all you need is some epoxy, so if you have some it is free (kinda). extending the wheel base requires materials and hardware and unless you already have it or you know somewhere to get it free, you will have to buy it. Check out Rccrawler under Wheely King to get more info.
Posted on: 11/15/2007 8:59 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6630734

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
I hate to beat a dead horse but after running this weekend I ruined another esc. My mamba 25 has suddenly rendered useless after running through the water. I know that I am not ovewrloading it in any way. I have also seen the vid of one running underwater. I give up I am sure now that they are not all entirely waterproof. So beware everyone. p3313r, I have a wheely king with four wheel steering set up on it. I used most of the stock hardware and mounted the servo with double stick tape to the battery tray. It has worked okay so far but you should know that because of all of the slop in the linkages the rear end wanders significantly at speed. I would recomend using aluminum hardware and bearings wherever applicable.
Posted on: 11/14/2007 10:16 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6626656

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
There is a problem with making it a limited slip differential. Tha easiest way to do it in rc is to use grease or putty or clay. In the case of teh wheely king the differential is not made to hold fluid, it has no seals at least the carrier alone does not, so it won't hold fluid. You can put silly putty or clay in there but putty is think and will work its way out of the gears and into the crevices of the carrier and clay over time will harden and also makes its way out of the gears. you could pack the gears in putty let them push it out of the way and then repack but I have never actually done this so I am not sure how well it would work. lastly you could try filling the whole axle with grease, like on real trucks, and hope that the bearings and the two case halve keep a good seal. chances are they won't though. Lastly and thoughit is definetly the most difficult option you could try to make it work like the real limited slip unit work by finding a thin (like paper thin) friction material (gasket material, hard rubber) and cutting little disks of it to put behind th side gears. the way this would work is because when the pinion gears and side gears mesh and move they push away from each other. The harder they push the more "locked" the diff would become, dut like I said before this would be very labor intensive with finding the right material and cutting up little disks and stacking them to get the desired amount of slip. I hope this wasn't to confusing, I know I am long winded, sorry.
Posted on: 11/6/2007 12:15 AM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6586835

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
What radio are you working with? It sounds like you need to turn on elevon mixing if it has the feature. Otherwise you will need a mixer which does it separate from the Tx. How to turn on elevon mixing can be found in the radio manual. Hope this helps![:D]
Posted on: 10/27/2007 9:42 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6547464

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
CEN123, Would the extended chassis add stability in normal driving? Who cares normal driving is boring if I wanted to do that I would just drive around in my regular car[:)] just kidding though (I actually have a stock Wheely King for normal driving in the basement when it is cold or raining) Anyway to answer you question, for me rock crawling is a challenge most the time when I show it to people I ask them to point out an obstacle they dont think it could climb (within reason). Then after my truck traverses the obstacle easily it becomes a game of "can it go over that? or that? what about this?" eventually they are to amazed to doubt it's coolness. The second part is that it gives me a feeling of accomplishment, when I first started with my bone stock wheely king I would do little mods one by one to get over a little more difficult obstacle. For me it became an addiction and now I am the proud owner of a near complete tube chassis WK based crawler capable of outperforming my AX-10. Third is the appeal of watching my creation climb and getting up that one impossible slope. best of all there doesn't need to be someone there to beat like in racing so I mess with my crawler stuff alot more than my other cars(TC4, RC10B4, RC18t, Scalpel, Micro Rs4, Micro-t). Finally it is probably genetic or something but it is just cool to some and not so much to others. No offense to Nascar fans out there but what is the appeal to watching cars go in circles for hours?(don't get me wrong I really appreciate the focus it places on driver skill rather than team budget) It just doesn't do it for me. Here is a tip, go on youtube and search RC rock crawler or wheely king or AX-10 or Clod Buster If like me you end up watching like 6 hours of it no more explanation will be required. oh yeah and the extended chassis would help stability in normal driving but keep in mind that depending on how you do it other things may have to be changed. If you are looking to extend the WK and keep it a basher Check out TCS crawlers komodo chassis it uses most of the stock equipment. www.tcscrawlers.com/product.php?productid=16433&cat=103&page=1
Posted on: 10/27/2007 8:59 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6547333

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
Dogman, that kinda helps but where do you put the springs? under the piston above? I was planning on puting the shocks body side down, with the shaft up. where do I put them for that? Otherwise isn't that called internal spring shock setup and not droop? or are they the same thing. Sorry but I are am stoopid[sm=spinnyeyes.gif] when it comes to this. Really just because I havent' done it![:D]
Posted on: 10/27/2007 8:24 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6547158

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
Hey guys I never got an answer on whether or not anyone was running a droop setup. Dogman, I saw you were considering doing this on your tuber. How does one go about setting it up for this.
Posted on: 10/25/2007 9:26 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6539288

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
Gee Dogman I sure wish I could wittle like you, anyway are you selling these like you did the upper links and where do I sign up?[:D]
Posted on: 10/25/2007 1:29 AM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6535818

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
Thats is the only solution I could think of but I dont want to do it with aluminum hexes like on the AX-10 . With the plastic ones over time the pins have begun to really dig in to the hexes glued in to the wheels on my wheely king and I am afraid they may soon wear out. I really wish that some one made bigger hexes and wheels with bigger hubs for the 2.2 wheels kind of like pro-lines 23mm heses for monster trucks. oh well I guess I will just make this work for now.
Posted on: 10/24/2007 2:28 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6532882

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
Has anyone had problems with the axle hexes stripping out or slipping? I cracked the hub of one of my axial wheels[:@]and am not to happy. I had to glue the hexes into the wheel to keep them from slipping. My AX-10 has not started to slip yet but the wheels have a little slop already. I always make sure to tighten down the wheel nut really good too. Argh!![:@][:@][:@]
Posted on: 10/24/2007 2:15 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6532838

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
Gryphon, I was a little confused with your response. It seems like you read half then reponded then read the rest and responded again?[sm=confused.gif] In response to the first part, I know how to disable the becs I just felt it uncessary. Like I said in my post I dont know how the bec regulates voltage. Depending on that I may be fine to run two becs. If it is it gives you a failsafe on the bec, or in other words a backup. In response to the second part, Call th manufaturer? where is the fun it that? I would rather diagram out the circuit myself. I am also no electrician but I know enough to do some simple tests and draw a circuit diagram. Plus with tthe technical nature of my questions and my demands for precise answers from the manufaturers, my previous calls have all ended up confusing both me and the customer support people. I have not had a chance to diagram it(I left my DVOMat school) and find out if it is ok or not but as soon as I do I will let you know.
Posted on: 10/19/2007 9:40 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6513336

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
[:D]Gryphon I was reading through and saw that you had asked about Jumper666's esc setup concerning the wires connecting to the reciever. I had independant batteries and esc on my dual ducted fan stryker project and I just hook each connector in separately without disabling either BEC. I dont know how jumper did it but I though that you might be interested. I have had no issues though i can see where you concern would be. I purchased the esc's as a pair and they have always been used together, they are both eflite 20 amp escs. I dont know how specific the tolerances are in eflite's standards but like I said I have had no problems. I have yet to get a good amount of time on them so we will see. The only problem I could think of if the voltages we different and I would think they would backfeed voltage into the controller. The thing is I am not antirely sure how the BEC regulators in the escs work. I would assume that they are self adjusting because they put out about 5v no matter what battery you put on them whether it be 5-12v. This is what I am not sure of, how the BEC works. If it was self adjusting how does it self adjust? Does it vary resistance or some other method? Does it base this adjustment off of input(battery) voltage or ouput(BEC) voltage? Are there any diodes in there to ensur proper polarization. Now I am just babbleing. It is time to bust out the trusty Fluke and do some tests. I will get back to you if I find anything out![:D]
Posted on: 10/18/2007 8:36 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6509189

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
Yeah well I am not really impressed with it so far it has kind of peeled back from the silicone wires[&o]. But it seems to be tough. The other problem is heat. I have always had problems with these overheating on me when I use large servos. I had this in a micro rs4 prior. I powered it up once so far and it got really hot really fast. I guess with the coating it keeps out all the air and therfore all the cooling. As far as the dip goes I saw another guy use it on a forum and he said it worked well so iIdecided to give it a shot. I will keep you posted. I also was not aware that a liquid silicone exsited that would be apropriate, I only can think of silicone caulk which is way to thick to be workable unless you could thin it, but with what? What kind of silicone are you talking about and where can I get some? I am willing to try anything and I have many more aplications, plus like I said I am not to thrilled with the dip's performance so far.
Posted on: 10/18/2007 8:02 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6509049

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
Well I just saw the video with the mamba underwater. However I assure you that that one of mine was fried by water when in use in my boat. There was no other reason for it to fry I did not over-amp it or anything and it was not the motor or RX. I replaced only the ESC and every thing works again. I agree that there is a positive case out there for it being waterproof. But I assure you all I fried mine in this manner. Whatever I still feel more comfortable with a extra layer of protection.
Posted on: 10/17/2007 3:23 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6502969

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
Whoa Whoa Whoa! Since when is it water proof. I would think that that would be advertised or stated somewhere I just checked Castles web site Horizon and Tower, none make any mention of it being waterproof. Further more I was recently running one of my boats and flipped it, the boat filled with water and when it returned to shore the esc was no longer working. [sm=confused.gif]
Posted on: 10/17/2007 2:37 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6502807

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
I almost forgot I waterproofed my servo and esc. I used Dielectric grease for the servo and plasti-dip for my esc.
Posted on: 10/16/2007 11:21 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6500574

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
Reaper, Yes many people have had problems with the transmision "clicking" when the two spring loaded gears inside slip past eack other as the tranny is loaded heavily. I would guess that this was designed in to facilitate reverse to forward wheelies, and due to the fact that a traditional slipper would slip to much this featuture was designed in. You can look at the parts breakdown in the instructions to see what I am talking about. I like you have had no trouble and from what I have read it only occurs under a high load, most people who have had trouble are using them as hopped up higher speed bashers or as larger wheelbase(15-17+ inches) are the majority of the people though some others had the same problem. Back to my project status I finally got around to finishing the links and axle plates tonight and got in all mounted up. I also got the brushless motor I mentioned mounted and wired. Unfortunately I miss-calculated and now have a 13 inch wheel base[sm=omg_smile.gif],oops. also I lost one of my stub axles[:@], the damndest thing is I just saw it like 2 hours ago. Maybe I will find it tommorow when I shorten those links. Well one step closer I guess. To Do: Mount shocks Complete tube chassis(cab) Setup steering servo mount and linkage Lock rear steer Mount up electronics Make body panels Most of the had stuff is out of the way, here are some new pics.
Posted on: 10/16/2007 11:06 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6500535

RE: SHOW UR BOATS PEOPLE
Check out the action shots of my miss bud. I converted It to electric and I out run most nitros.
Posted on: 10/11/2007 11:13 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6430015

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
Robert, In my experience esc's are more likely to burn up in almost all cases. They will emit a unique smell that is hard to explain but it will almost always smell when burnt up, especially from over amping. Also you may see no visible damage(burn marks). As far as motors are concerned I have only had brushed motors go out cold turkey. When this happens usually the brushes are to blame. In sealed endbell typical "can" motors the brushes can be seen through the cooling holes. If the little tabs are brakoen off the motor is toast. Brushless motors are extremely resilient due to the way they are built. I have never had one go out on me at all ever. Finally I just re read your post and saw you mentioned that the esc still operates the servos but no motor tune. This doesn't really help narrow it down much. I really have no experience with cheap equipment so that may be a factor. Here is a good check swap the motor for another if you have one laying around, if you dont have another B-less motor take the whole plane to your LHS and see if the will let you hook one of theirs up. Hope this helps!
Posted on: 10/9/2007 9:07 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6471067

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
Thanks for the links Nick, Is anyone running a droop setup on a wk. How do you set them up?
Posted on: 10/4/2007 10:51 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6451250

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
I thought about doing the custom plat but making it fit right seemed like it would be alot of work and I have limited access to a bandsaw for precise cuts(I have been using a freinds). Whose knucles are those? what brand. As for the cvds do they make a set specifically for the wk, I cannot find them.
Posted on: 10/4/2007 8:13 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6450480

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
Nick, I have I question for you. I see that you are using aluminum spindles inplace of the stock. I would assume that those get more steering throw from the looks of them. I have recently modified my own caster blocks to allow more steering but ran into a problem with the driveshafts binding in the stub axles. Did you encounter the same issue? or are you using different stub axles. Cvds? Did you possibly just grind them out?
Posted on: 10/3/2007 11:18 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6447295

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
This is my current setup. Very clean behind the axle link mounts. I plan on using the linkage setup you all saw in the other post. Battery will be on the axle as well. plus I just began on a simple tuber design. Oh and I am sure to get greif without pre-emptive explination so here it is: I am using the stock wheely king tranny to keep the chassis narrow. I like the way it looks like this plus there should be enough weight down low to counter act it. I am also planning on going to a smaller brushless outrunner motor which will futher help eliminate some of the high weight.
Posted on: 10/3/2007 10:59 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6447202

RE: OFFICIAL WHEELY KING CRAWLER THREAD
This setup is for some one else. I gave him the best setup I could without changing anything else. He can only afford the steering right now. Belive me there is plent wrong with the truck including the two driveshaft halves being glued together +many more. I am just setting him up on steering so that he wont have to do any major upgrades for a while. This was also a test to see how it would perform as far as throw. If we are going to get serious that is also a poor servo location, to high, but in this configuration it fits between the shocks. I know it is not optimum but it is way better than the stock linkage that had been broken and glued several times.
Posted on: 10/3/2007 10:42 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "RC Rock Crawlers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6447120

RE: Proboat Miss Budweiser 1/12 – Awesome!
Getting rid of those rear triplets will help the boat plan from low speed and during launch. I think they may have gotten rid of them because the real full size formula racing boat does not have them.
Posted on: 10/2/2007 11:59 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6442934

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
The connectors I was using were mismatched. The males were to small to make a tight fit so I bent out the prongs with a philips screwdriver. This may have be the cause of the problem seeing as I probably cracked the gold plating spreading them. Males were Multiplex came with motor I don't remember what the females were but not multiplex. Also as a second example I never had trouble with matched unaltered sets even though a mild gray white powdery build up woul gather after long periods. Anyway all this is a little fuzzy Its been about a year since I last messed with the stuff. Bottom line, to eliminate these problems, direct solder. I takes no more time and no more skill and it isn't so hard to unsolder later. I have gone to direct soldering for all medium to heavy duty applications.
Posted on: 10/2/2007 11:48 PM by Author "RCminded" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6442903