RE: Can we believe in the specifications of the motor and the ESC?
Don't worry, your motor won't be spinning anywhere near 50,000 rpm in a direct drive boat... speed - their props usually won't bite at that rpm.) What [b]will[/b] happen is the motor will bog down to a lower rpm where the amp draw is huge. Then smell the smoke. Useful rpm for FE boats depends upon the use. For most sport boaters, on-the-water rpm will be between 20,000 and 25,000 rpm
Posted on: 11/3/2009 6:50 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9226021

RE: Can we believe in the specifications of the motor and the ESC?
[quote]The 540xl 8t is indeed rated for 2073kv and that would put the unloaded rpms at 38,350 on 5s, well within the rpm range. On 6s (46,020) it still falls into the acceptable rpm range of ''under 50,000''...[/quote] This demonstrates a lack of understanding of how BL motors work, particularly in boats. It is very easy to exceed 100 amps with a 8XL motor on 5S in a boat
Posted on: 11/2/2009 10:18 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9223952

RE: H&M No Step 3 hull
The NS3 is a great 4S boat for racing or sport. For a quick sport setup I'd run a Feigao 10XL and an m445 to m645 prop. You can to to a hotter motor, but run time will drop off and heat will build faster. You'd get into the 40s with the above setup once the boat is properly trimmed out. [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 10/24/2009 12:01 AM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9197540

RE: How many guys run 8s ?
Eight S sounds like an awful lot of power for a 90 cm hull. We normally run 4S in monos that size and get speeds in the 80s for sprint racing on 1600 m courses. What type of racing are you doing there? [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 10/22/2009 7:02 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9194320

RE: 1/8th Scale hydros at HOTMBC
A little more history here. The builder/driver of the [b]TomyAnn[/b] is Tom Taggart. His father, Joe Taggart, drove both these hulls full-scale in Unlimited competition in the 1950s. He won the APBA Gold Cup in 1953 driving the Slo Mo IV, and almost won again in 1955. Joe always said that the IV was the better Slo Mo race boat. It was just too cool to see both these hulls running together. More photos are here: http://hotmbc.net/gallery/ If you look around in the many other albums on the site you can see some of Tom's other scale round nosed hydros. Beautiful boats, and they all run competitively! [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 10/19/2009 9:41 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9186698

1/8th Scale hydros at HOTMBC
These are race boats, but they are also highly-detailed scale models of two 1950s Unlimited Hydros. One is the famous SloMo IV, the other is the TomyAnn. It was a beautiful day in Texas and it was great fun watching these two gorgeous boats race each other. [IMG]http://i33.tinypic.com/dy8v9v.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i38.tinypic.com/2vmvtli.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i33.tinypic.com/24xdfzl.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 10/17/2009 11:10 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9181683

1/8th Scale hydros at HOTMBC
Today was gorgeous in Texas! We had two 1/8th Scale Hydros racing each other, the 2006 NAMBA National Champion SloMo IV and the Taggart-designed TomyAnn. Both were 1950s Unlimited Hydros. It was great fun to watch them! [IMG]http://i33.tinypic.com/dy8v9v.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i38.tinypic.com/2vmvtli.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i33.tinypic.com/24xdfzl.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 10/17/2009 11:06 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9181672

RE: lipo 3cell problem one cell low?
No, you can leave LiPos charged for months and not have your problem [i]You have a bad cell in the pack[/i]. Like mentioned above, that is a risk particularly with the cheap packs. Contact the manufacturer and ask them to replace the pack. The same thing happened to a club member's cheap 14.8 volt pack, he finally threw it away. [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 10/15/2009 10:43 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9176861

RE: 5mm to 1/8 motor coupler
Sure, glad to help. They are close enough in size that they are interchangeable with the collet couplers. [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 10/12/2009 7:04 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9167677

RE: 5mm to 1/8 motor coupler
OSE [b]does [/b]sell what you need, here it is: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-ocfhe5mm13S or here: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=oct-ocfhe5mm13 [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 10/12/2009 7:33 AM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9165990

RE: What would this have to be running to get to these speeds?
30000-35000 rpm. Which is easy on the electronics and your wallet. And you get about 20-30mins of run time... running a motor at 35,000 rpm either, it will get too hot. 35,000 rpm is SAW racing territory and is not easy on the motor. A more appropriate motor rpm for a sport boat as you describe is 20-25,000 rpm
Posted on: 10/7/2009 6:51 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9154745

RE: 24
The Folger's FE cat was published in the Summer 1990 issue of RCBM. At the time it was a high performance FE, although speeds were only in the high 20s-low 30s on 12 round cells. Today a 24" hull is kinda small, but it could easily be powered with either an SV27/UL1 power system on 4S or a Feiago 8L motor on 2S. Either would be similar in performance and would give all the speed the cat can handle. Gary makes 1/16th scale [i]hydroplanes[/i], not catamarans. There is a big difference in handling and performance between the two hull types. For example, several club members ran the UL1 motor/ESC in small cats and saw ~40 mph. The exact same setup in a 24" scale hydro ran 51 mph. The hydro then ran with a 7L motor on 2S, hitting 48 mph. The small boats are hard to run successfully much over 40 mph on anything but smooth water, they tend to blow off easily. [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 10/4/2009 8:06 AM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9145227

RE: which motor?
No No No! A 700 or 820 motor (or two) will simply not work with a boat that large. They will overheat and burn up quickly without giving you the speed you need. The outdrives pictured are too low in quality and performance for such a large boat. They are never used on hydroplanes. Clearly the advice you were given was by someone who has never built or run a large model....no offense but you need to communicate with folks who actually run these large boats [b]successfully[/b], not some wannabes. If you want the hydro to plane then you will need a minimum of 8S/24 cells, and 10S/32 cells is better. A brushed motor large enough to move the boat will be about as expensive as one of the less costly BL motors, but nothing will be "cheap" about it if you want the boat to run reliably. I have seen lots of boaters build large boat, put in inadequate power, then be terribly disappointed in how the boat runs. They either sell the boat in disgust, or they pony up the $$$ to put in the right system. This means they paid [b]twice[/b] for the system. You need to rethink the drive system. Ideally you should have all the drive/power components in hand as you build the model so that you can be certain they will fit in the correct places and achieve the correct CG. Otherwise the boat will never run well even with adequate power. Sorry to be so blunt but I'd hate to see you fall into the same trap that so many have before you. [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 10/3/2009 9:19 AM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9143139

RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950
Okay, we are all trying to help you, to keep you from wasting your money. It is your right to ignore our help and plunge ahead, believing people you have never even communicated with. But remember this: 1) Don't believe everything you see on the Internet. YouTube videos only show you a few seconds of a boat's performance. Was the motor burning hot when it was brought in? Did it burn up on the next run? A club member did this, only posting the good runs to impress everyone. He soon sold all his cheap KB motors - the ones that weren't soo badly scorched that is. 2) Vendors like OSE take care of their customers. OSE [i]stopped carrying this motor[/i] due to so many problems with it. 3) If you don't have enough money to enter the hobby correctly, wait until you do. A great many prospective boaters (and airplane flyers and car guys) get caught like a fish by the low prices of chinese junk - [b][color=#66FF00]oh shiny!! [/color][/b]- and buy it. Then when it burns up they say that the FE hobby sucks and only fools buy a boat (or plane or car)..... [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 9/26/2009 12:20 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9125383

RE: KB45 VS. LEHNER 2250 VS. LEHNER 1950
There is a reason why people don't buy the KB motors. Taylor is right, compared to the Lehners the KB is pure junk. Club members who had them sold them right away - they would not even hold up to sport use. They are very inefficient - meaning they heat up fast. Their build quality is poor and balance stinks. Offshoreelectrics.com used to carry them but stopped due to problems. You certainly can "beat it" for the price. Buy a KB and you won't have a motor nor will you have your money - and you'll have to buy another, better motor anyway. Save your money and get a 'real' motor. The Feiago 580L motors are far better than the KBs - but they also cost more. They would be my recommendation for someone wanting more power than a Feiago 540 but not wanting to spring the bucks for a Lehner or Neu. Actually if you are building a twin cat you may be able to use the Feiago 540XLs rather than the larger 580s.
Posted on: 9/24/2009 6:42 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9121262

RE: Vintage Octura White Heat series ??
A few WH photos. [IMG]http://i35.tinypic.com/5ehe0z.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i33.tinypic.com/11gqbmt.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i37.tinypic.com/103ctb5.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i36.tinypic.com/f59lc2.jpg[/IMG] [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 9/18/2009 9:24 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9106639

RE: O/B Rigger Tech
The rear sponsons have to be large enough to keep the boat afloat when the engine dies. Because the CG is farther to the rear on an OB, the turn fin (which has to be mounted near the CG) is farther aft. With few exceptions (OPC), fast boats don't turn well with a steerable outboard - it causes hooking when turning. The faster OB rigger guys were locking the OB straight ahead and using a rudder on the right (like an IB rigger does) to steer. Some racing rules allwed this, some did not. [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 9/16/2009 7:34 AM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9099838

RE: Battery Performance and Water Damage
[quote]Did I possibly damage the motor with water? [/quote] Perhaps, the brushes could be worn from being wet, or the bearings/bushings could be rusted. [quote]Am I doing something wrong with the new battery? [/quote] Packs need to be balanced when new. Do this by charging the pack full, let it cool completely, then charge at 4/10 amp until the pack is warm. It is common for the cheaper packs in particular to have a few cells that do not reach full charge when the pack is through charging. Balancing the pack in this way brings all the cells up to full charge. [quote]Is it common that these boats should only be run in very calm conditions to prevent water intake? [/quote] I am not familiar with that particular model, but no electric boat should take on more than a few drops of water during a run. Find out where the water is entering and stop the leaks. Put the boat in a bathtub without the hatch and watch for water to enter the hull. Hold the boat and use part throttle for several minutes. Points to watch are the drive shaft and rudder. Placing paper towels in the bottom of the hull can help to catch what does get in.
Posted on: 9/13/2009 11:27 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9093610

RE: ABS hull stepped
[quote]...stepped hull needs additional power from motor. If you havent much power then stepped hull works worse to unstepped.[/quote] In reality just the opposite is true. The reason that European monos are usually stepped is because it allows the racers to run longer using less powerful motors. This fits in with the racing rules that were in effect prior to BL motors and LiPos. The reduction in wetted area and the additional lift provided by properly designed steps means less power is needed to run the boat. It does take a bit more power to get on step, but once there properly designed steps will reduce the power requirement to stay on plane. [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 9/13/2009 9:06 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9093170

RE: ABS hull stepped
The SAW cat was destroyed during a crash at 80 mph but I have a shot of the top. I'm attaching a pic of the typical step design used on commercial R/C catamarans. The "secret" is to have the steps at a slight aoa relative to the bottom of the sponsons. 2-4 degrees is good depending on the boat's speed, the faster it is the lower the aoa. I just used two steps on my SAW cat. Video of 75 mph passes in 2004 with 14 NiMH cells and Hacker motor. http://www.crumbgrabber.com/06lasawvideo/turnerqoffshore.wmv
Posted on: 9/13/2009 10:26 AM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9091550

RE: 22-26
The Aeromarine MeanMachine may work. They are occasionally sold surplus for under $100 with hardware, or the bare hull for ca. $150 at OSE. This is a good hull for 4S power, I run a BJ26 motor on 4S in mine and it scoots pretty well. [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 9/13/2009 2:00 AM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9091167

RE: SAW boat kits websites???
What kind of SAW boat are you interested in? Mono, hydro, cat? 2S, 4S, 6S, 8S, 10S? While many different "factory stock" hulls hold SAW records, it is becoming more and more difficult to use them successfully as speeds increase. SAW racing can be a lot of fun, but it can also be expensive. If you are not burning up equipment, then you are just not seriously trying for a record. [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 9/13/2009 1:53 AM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9091158

RE: ABS hull stepped
Steps can help a cat considerably - if they are done right. They reduce wetted area while providing a positive method to maintain the correct aoa. My 12-cell stepped cat still holds the NAMBA P Offshore SAW record. [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 9/13/2009 1:50 AM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9091150

collari .30 pull start
Anybody know where to get one? Thanks!!
Posted on: 8/26/2009 6:40 PM by Author "rpm-inc" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9047573

RE: constant amps
There is no such thing as a "74 amp motor". Most BL motors can draw much more than that - it depends on how much you load them. Put a huge prop on the boat, or run the boat real wet, and the amp draw can soar. BTW, the "74 amps" just refers to the maximum amp draw recommended by the seller. Likewise, most LiPo batteries can put out way more than 100 amps - again it depends on how much you load them. The 100 amps is the safe amp draw recommended by the seller. [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 3/31/2009 7:05 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8636065

RE: NEW AQACRAFT FE HYDROPLANE!!!!!!!
This race was put on by nitro racers, but they kindly asked us to participate. We only ran the "short course" for one heat, due to very rough water on the back straight. But half way into that heat the CD decided to have us run the full course, which worked great once everyone got the message. All the boats were running UL/LiPo power combos. Apparently years of sniffing nitro fumes has addled the brains of the nitro guys - they can no longer count backwards....[;)] [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 3/7/2009 11:41 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8554794

RE: NEW AQACRAFT FE HYDROPLANE!!!!!!!
Here are the videos from our race last weekend - it was windy! In the videos the wind ranged from 15 mph to 25+ mph, really too much to race in but we are hard core. Pay attention to the ending of the final video.... [:D] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyE_vJcgIc4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crtZ0gg4ZA4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YNqgHDbJ_k [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 3/4/2009 10:47 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8545149

RE: NEW AQACRAFT FE HYDROPLANE!!!!!!!
Yes, Windows Millenium, now there was a [b]real[/b] improvement over Windows 98! [8|] New technology is not always good, but it cannot be reliable until it is developed and de-bugged. Too bad Microsoft so often has let it's customers be the unpaid de-buggers.... [i]Windows Me was criticized by users for its instability and unreliability, due to frequent freezes and crashes. A PC World article dubbed Windows Me the "Mistake Edition" and placed it 4th in their "Worst Tech Products of All Time" feature. "Shortly after Me appeared in late 2000," the article states, "users reported problems installing it, getting it to run, getting it to work with other hardware or software, and getting it to stop running." Even Microsoft acknowledged its unpopularity.[/i] [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 1/29/2009 10:38 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8417870

RE: Megatech's Chris Chianelli ?
http://www.rccaraction.com/ME2/Default.asp Latest news.... [:o] [color=#FFFFFF].[/color]
Posted on: 1/24/2009 8:38 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8396999

RE: New here looking for some advise....
All three are good boats, the choice will boil down to personal preference. The SV27 is the standard for RTRs, the most popular and IMO the best brushless mono. It runs great right out of the box, and with a few minor mods will run even better and handle rougher water well for its size. The BJ26 catamaran will handle better in smaller ponds and handles rough water okay. If modded too far it will suffer handling issues, but switching to a fixed driveline and a rudder solves that problem. The UL-1 is the speed king, reaching the 40s right out of the box. With minor mods it's in the 50s - but like any FE boat, the faster you go the less run time you will have and the less stable the hull. Mine runs surprisingly well on chop, although it is not a rough water boat. All three have minor issues like leaks and questionable parts, but with little work they are all great models. Choose based on the hull type you like and the water you'll run on. None will handle really rough water, but up to a 1" chop all will run well. Welcome to the FE world! [color=#FFFFFF];[/color]
Posted on: 1/5/2009 8:23 PM by Author "Got RPM" in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8323217