RE: Questions Regarding Older Zenoah Engine
How about that? Ralph did that conversion years ago and he is STILL offering to replace the ignition if it doesn't work today years later and at least 2 owners later. Way to go Ralph!!
Posted on: 10/13/2011 3:08 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10763774

RE: ASP Engines
[quote]ORIGINAL: fordman1 Three boxes of junk. One says ''keep for parts'' on it. Hobby People wrote that. I paid 60 bucks a piece for two of them, nothing for the third. Got EXACTLY what I paid for. For another 60 bucks I could have bought an OS30 and it would have given me no problems and run the first time. Wouldn't have had all the hassle of trying to make it work and then sending it back. I got the saito 30 for $150 on special and it was an excellent buy compared to the Magnums. All the other Magnums I own were returns and the management let me keep them. It was cheaper and easier just to give the customer another engine and not pay me to make them work. I would use them to repair engines out of warranty at no charge. Good for customer relations. Now as for the original poster, take this post as to what I think about ASP engines and Chinese engines in general. Asp and Magnum are made by the same Chiese company. Now the older magnums made by Thunder Tiger were much better than the Chinese Magnums. [/quote] LOL!!
Posted on: 10/13/2011 10:46 AM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10763363

RE: Instructions for tearing down a gas engine
2-stroke gas engines aren't that complicated. If you can tear down a glow engine, you can also do a gasser. If you CAN'T tear down a glow engine - then send your gas engine to a professional. Biggest concern IMHO is putting the piston and ring assembly back into the cylinder WHEN IT'S CLOCKED TO THE CORRECT POSITION. The cylinder has transfer ports and holes all over inside. The pistons rings are pinned so they ride in one of the spots where there is a continuous cylinder wall from the top of the stroke to the bottom - no transfer ports or exhaust holes. The piston ring should ride up and down in the cylinder on part of the smooth wall. Typically you will have transfer ports at the following clock positions: 12 - 9 - 6 o'clock Typical exhaust port is at the 3 o'clock position You have solid cylinder wall at 10 - 2 - 4 - 8 o'clock positions The piston will be pinned so the ring rides at one of the 10 - 2 - 4 - 8 o'clock positions - this keeps it compressed and doesn't allow it to open up into a port. When you reassemble, make sure you feed the piston/ring up into the cylinder IN THE CORRECT POSITION If you don't, that ring will find one of those transfer ports and then it will open up. The ring is under tension when you squeeze it down and slip it up into the cylinder. It's trying to expand. If it finds a transfer port or an exhaust port - it WILL expand. Now you're friggin' STUCK!! If it opens up into the exhaust port you can maybe manage to push and massage it back into the ring grooves in the piston and then shove it all the way up into the cylinder. But if it opens up into one of those transfer ports - you're HOSED. It's stuck and you have no way to squeeze it back into the ring grooves in the piston. Motors junk. Make darn sure you got that piston clocked into the correct position before you stick it back up into the cylinder. Hey!! Call me an idiot - learned that little bit of information hard way. [:)] See diagrams. Notice how the piston pin is always going to be located so the ring gap rides on a SOLID cylinder wall from BDC through TDC on the stroke. Line it up before you shove it up in there. If that ring opens up into a transfer port you're hosed. Next area of concern..... air leaks. Seal it up when you put it back together. Buy or make NEW gaskets. Use a sealant. Air leaks cause lean runs. Lean runs cause dead sticks. Dead sticks cause dead planes. Next area is the bolt and torque: I use a tiny drop of blue or red loctite on the cylinder and case bolts. Keep in mind the case and cylinder are probably aluminum. The bolts are steel. Which one do you think will strip out first? The case or the bolt? Snug them up to just a snerch past finger tight. Now give each one about 1/4 or 1/3 turn. Now QUIT. Thats good enough. You don't have to monkey knuckle the bolts. That just leads to more problems. Let it sit for 3 or 4 days and give the loctite and gasket sealant time to cure before you fly it.
Posted on: 10/11/2011 2:54 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10760315

RE: Do any of you guys use vibration dampening mounts 50cc?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Uncas I used the Dubro anti-vibration Motor mounts on a Brillelli 46 to a GP Yak 54. The vibration did not seem any better or worse when I later mounted the engine with hard mounts. Now, this is not a scientific fact, just an observation and there is a big difference. The rubber isolation boots are hard and are compressed pretty tight, and I do not know what frequency is being filtered or I guess possibly amplified. I did not take vibration readings. I am sure a vibration spectrum analysis would have shown some differences but I could not really tell myself by touch. It would be an interesting thing to test, but you would need some good vibration equipment and someone who can read the data. [b]I did actually run the engine without the wings mounted and I thought the plane was going to explode.[/b] [/quote] Darn lucky it didn't explode. Glad you dodged a bullet that day. You still got that Brillelli?
Posted on: 10/7/2011 8:12 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10754087

RE: Do any of you guys use vibration dampening mounts 50cc?
I do ........... they're called wings. [;)] I was taught to NEVER start a gas powered plane without the wings attached. They act as a vibration dampener. The guy who told this to me was a respected member with a lot of experience flying 100cc planes. So, I took him at his word and didn't question him. A couple years later I watched a guy running a 50cc plane without the wings attached. I tried to stop him and told him I'd help him put the wings on if he'd just shut the motor off and let me help him. He told me, to go....... pack sand... ya know 4-letter words and a 1-finger salute. The guy was angry. About 2mins into his 'engine break-in' the horizontal stabs blew off the airframe when he cracked the throttle wide open. I busted out laughing. I couldn't help myself. Seeing the look on his face after watching his stabs rip off as pieces of balsa and monokote strained through the fence behind his airplane..... priceless. That right there convinced me. I never run a big plane without the wings attached. Edited to correct spelling mistake....
Posted on: 10/7/2011 8:08 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10752471

RE: Zenoah GT-80 2 blade prop selection
I don't think you can buy an Ultra prop anymore. Maybe, but I ain't been able to find one for a couple years. Honestly, I would run a GT-80 on a 23-10 prop for break in. Thats a 2-blade that you can get from Mezlik or Xoar. That will get you up into the power band. Now if you insist on a 3-blade, I'd be running a 22-10. You can get those from Xoar.
Posted on: 10/6/2011 10:58 AM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10751505

RE: Got a 30cc engine?
YES!!!
Posted on: 10/5/2011 8:56 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10750767

RE: Got a 30cc engine?
[quote]ORIGINAL: captinjohn Is the ''SC the newest 330 out?  I do not do 3D and would like to buy the older version...if there is one?  It should be less $$ too I hope!    Capt,n [/quote] I don't know. To me, it's an Extra300. Single seat. Mid lowish wing. I 'try' to 3D. I'm not very good. But this little plane is the most capable airframe under 80cc that I've personally ever flown. It has minimal coupling in knife edge flight. It's super light weight. Big control surfaces. It's a little small for me. My hands are big and fat, so screwing the wing bolts on is always fun. I already splattered the CF landing gear... not a big fan of CF gear. I did not buy mine NIB. I bought it RTF less RX for $500. Plane had less than 10 flights on it when I bought it. It has a DLE30 engine with Hitec 5955 servos (can you say 'overkill' ?) and a Fromeco Sahara regulator. I'm using a Turnigy 2100 2-cell lipo for flight and a Turnigy 1300 2-cell for ignition. Have not weighed it. My opinion ... if it'll 3D at 6000 feet altitude.... you guys at sea level will be fine. I'm moving across country and will soon be flying at 800' altitude. Gonna be fun to finally fly an airplane in some thick air after all these yrs at high altitude.
Posted on: 10/2/2011 9:16 AM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10744867

RE: Got a 30cc engine?
I'm flying the 3DHS 72" 330SC (blue/red/whute version) with a DLE30. Xoar 20-6 prop. It's small compared to what I'm used to flying, but it's very capable when it comes to 3D flight.
Posted on: 10/1/2011 9:19 AM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10743576

RE: Emergency Engine Kill... Choke Servo or Opto-Ignition Kill from Transmitter
[quote]ORIGINAL: on_your_six RCPilot, Of all the responses in this thread, I consider yours the most politically incorrect. ''tickle'' give me a break.[/quote] Then report it and let another mod look at it, instead of standing around whining about it. [quote] I (and I am sure... to my original post on the subject of babysiting grown men. [quote]ORIGINAL: Rcpilot Somebody opened a ticket
Posted on: 9/25/2011 7:42 AM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10733100

RE: Emergency Engine Kill... Choke Servo or Opto-Ignition Kill from Transmitter
[quote]ORIGINAL: willig10 Wow, someone has a burr under their saddle. Just when it was getting good too. LOL. I feel like a elementary student who got chastised for talking too loud during class. Just for the record it werent me who opened a ticket and that said I don't even know how to open a ticket. Glenn Williams [/quote] Are your comments directed at me or to the person who opened the ticket?
Posted on: 9/24/2011 6:55 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10732563

RE: Mounting Zen 62 on warbird?
[quote]ORIGINAL: blue77 I am going to be mounting a Zen 62 on a Wild Hare Hellcat.....I have no experience with this brand of gasser, it does have the spring starter. Anyone recall a thread that shows pics/info on mounting this engine? Thanks, B7 [/quote] Take the spring starter off and convert it to electronic ignition. There will be about an inch of crankshaft sticking out the back of the engine after removal of starter. Drill a 3/4" hole in your firewall and mount it flat or use a cup mount if you have the room. B&B Specialties sells a nice aluminum cup mount. I don't know if Ralph is still doing conversions for people. His username is Antique. If he'll do the EI conversion for you - it's money well spent.
Posted on: 9/24/2011 4:27 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10732400

RE: How thick should a firewall be for a DLE20?
I would consider the type of wood used. If it's cheap china card board - then I would cut it out and replace with HARD aircraft ply. I would never build a firewall out of lite ply, but thats just me. If it's hard plywood, I'd say 1/4" minimum and tri-stock the corners and pin the sides with bamboo kabob skewers soaked with CA. But thats a minimum. I'd rather have a 3/8" hard ply firewall behind a 20cc engine. I'd pin that and back it up with tri-stock as well.
Posted on: 9/24/2011 4:18 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10732382

RE: Emergency Engine Kill... Choke Servo or Opto-Ignition Kill from Transmitter
Somebody opened a ticket for this thread. I've read all 4 pages and every post. I don't agree with how some people handle - perceive - the information, but I also don't see any reason to edit or whack posts. Some guys tell it like it is and other guys don't like that because they'd rather the information was delivered with a tickle under their crotch. Me thinks a few of you are too PC and should just grow up and be men about it. I'm just not all that interested in being a baby sitter to a bunch of grown men. If you don't like it - then don't read it. Filter it. Use the information you like and disregard the rest. Are we not grown men here? My comments are not directed at the person who opened the ticket rather, they are directed at all of ya.
Posted on: 9/24/2011 3:54 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10732338

RE: Magnum/ASP 108
FYI: You can get the ASP 108 at Hobby King for about $90 + shipping.
Posted on: 9/5/2011 10:03 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10703520

RE: CMP 120 size Cub - Assembly
It's typical china ARF construction. China lite ply and laser cut parts. I have an older version, so the paint on my cowl and wind screen don't match the china cote covering. The airframe seams reasonably well built. The landing gear is kinda cool, but you'll want to replace the stock rubber bands with something much more substantial. Right now I have (6) #64 rubber bands on each leg and it seams to be holding up okay. But I have not attached the wing and fully assembled the plane yet. Once the thing is completely assembled I'll have to see how it holds up. Might be okay with just 6 rubber bands - might need 8 on each side. The cowl doesn't have a lot of inlet opening to cool your engine. I'm using a DLE20 gasoline engine. I want it cool. It's brand new. I decided to build a baffle inside the cowl to direct as much air over the cooling fins as possible. I'm going to install the plastic dummy cylinders and cut a hole in the forward facing side of each cylinder set. That would effectively TRIPLE the square inches of inlet opening. I'm also going to build a small lip on the bottom of my cowl - near the outlet opening. That will help suck the air through the cowl. I'm planning to buy the DuBro 1/3 scale Cub wheels from Tower. At 5.6" diameter, they would be almost the perfect size bush tires for this Cub. The stock tail wheel sucks. It REALLY sucks. I replaced it with a great planes scale tailwheel. I cut a piece of 1/4" hard aircraft plywood to fit the bottom of the fuse - last 4 or 5 inches of the tail on the bottom of the fuse. I drilled the holes and mounted blind nuts for the GP scale tail wheel. Mounted the bracket and then cut some covering off the bottom of the plane. Glued it on with a paste of 15min epoxy and micro balloons. I got it for $100, but it was missing some hardware. I can live with it for $100. Would rather have had the World Models 1/4 scale Cub. Thats what this was SUPPOSED to be when a friend went and picked it up. But it wasn't a World Models Cub and it ain't 1/4 scale. I almost didn't buy it. But it was still a decent deal for $100 and I just happen to have a shiny new DLE20 sitting here......
Posted on: 6/19/2011 6:05 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10582562

RE: CMP 120 size Cub - Assembly
Glued the tail on. Used a little tape to hold it square. It kept wanting to twist out about 1/4" Measured from the outside of the wing where the tip of the aileron lands. There's a sharp corner there. 40 and 1/8" from that tip to the trailing edge corner of the stab. I got one side hinged and finished the linkage. I'll work on the other elevator half and the rudder tomorrow.
Posted on: 6/13/2011 11:46 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10572457

RE: CMP 120 size Cub - Assembly
6hrs later......... [8|]
Posted on: 6/13/2011 7:00 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10572413

RE: Hobby King really sucks...
[quote]ORIGINAL: LDM You do know you can get it from Tower right [:D], they all speak english at Tower if that is your main concern lol . If you grow up with parents that do not speak good english , you learn a few things .1)dont judge people based on how they speak , my parents were the hardest working Americans I have ever met . 2)You learn to listen ,and someday when you find a home in sales , listening is very rare for a saleman , so you end up makeing a high level 6 figure income , because you learned to really listen to people and what they say vs how they say it . I wish everyone the best in this hobby and the best in your purchases , this from a guy with a mob-philli accent !!!! [:D] [/quote] You knew exactly what I was talking about, so can it with the garbage about language. Let's not play semantics - we're both big boys. As far as buying it from Tower..... I'd rather spend my money with ValleyView. I'll support the small mom & pop outfit with personal service - over the big corporate animal that gobbles up every mom & pop outfit that ever comes along.
Posted on: 6/13/2011 3:43 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10572077

RE: Hobby King really sucks...
I bought my DLE engine from ValleyViewRC and I'm very happy with it. They have a good customer service record and when/if you call - an American who speaks ENGLISH answers the phone and actually TALKS to you. Yes, the engine was about $10 or $20 more expensive than buying it from overseas. It was worth the peace of mind.
Posted on: 6/13/2011 2:18 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10571894

RE: CMP 120 size Cub - Assembly
Installed aileron servos in wings. JR911 mid-size servo. It's a coreless - ball bearing - nylon gear - servo with about 45oz torque at 4.8v. I'm using a 6v battery, so I'm guessing they'll be around 50-53oz torque. This ARF has been lying in some guys garage for 3 or 4 years. It's missing the elevator pushrods and a few other bags of hardware. Ended up peeling the covering off the bottom of the plane and cutting all the pushrod tubes out. I hate wire pushrods anyway, but only having 1 in the bag when I need 4 ............ I'm not messing with it. Cut 'em out and put some other pushrods in there. I've got one in place at time of pics. I got one more pushrod here and will have to run off to the LHS and buy 2 more tomorrow. I wish it didn't look like a snake running through the fuse, but thats where the holes laid out and there's not much room to drill new holes unless I patch the old ones first. [8|] Thats what semi-flexible pushrods are for, right? [;)] I'm going to use cheap Hitec 311 servos on each elevator half. They're new and will do the job.
Posted on: 6/13/2011 1:44 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10571837

RE: Sig Koverall and Minwax Polycrylic
Looks awesome Joe. Very nice job.
Posted on: 6/12/2011 8:19 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10570577

CMP 120 size Cub - Assembly
Picked up a sorta NIB ARF through a friend. It's one of the older versions. The cowl paint and windscreen don't match the chinakote on the plane. [8|] But the price was decent and I just happen to have a new DLE20 sitting here on the shelf........ It's been tossed around a little. Thje parts are in good shape, but missing a few minor pieces of hardware. I don't normally use much of the metric hardware that comes with an ARF, so it's not a big deal. Working on the aileron servos now. Pics coming tonight.
Posted on: 6/12/2011 7:05 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10570457

RE: Quick question about gas setup
Use a water bottle for your tank. It's easy and it works. It's lighter and you can see through the canopy right into your fuel tank because they are clear. If the clunk line fell off or got wrapped up inside there some how - you could see it, if you were doing your pre-flight checks. Most guys use a Fiji water bottle. I think they come in 1 liter and 500ml - so roughly 32oz and 16oz. I found this one in the cooking oil isle at the local grocery store. It had peanut oil inside. It's about 24oz. Works for a 75cc engine. Grab a nice aluminum stopper assembly. Grab a gas stopper and some tygon or neoprene or other gas fuel tubing and plumb it up. There's no seal on the screw top lid. You can seal the threads with a product called Seal-All. It's a gas and oil resistant sealant in a tube. Hardware store or auto parts store should have it. This is a 3-line setup. Yellow tygon is the fill line. Thats plumbed to a fuel dot in the side of the plane. Black neoprene line is the main clunk and is plumbed to the carb. Third brass line is the vent. Run your vent out and up behind the tank once. Zip tie a fist sized loop behind the tank. Run the vent line out the bottom of the plane.
Posted on: 6/12/2011 3:56 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10570110

RE: Sig Koverall and Minwax Polycrylic
[quote]ORIGINAL: WacoNut If you get bubbles in the PolyC then you need to make sure your are sanding away the top of the bubbles before getting to your final coats. You can actually use these bubbles to gauge how much you are sanding. I found that by thinning by 15% and using the foam brush I did not get near as many bubbles to deal with. [/quote] I shook the minwax can at Lowes - got bubbles in the liquid. I realize a better sanding job would have got rid of the bubbless. But I don't have a whole lot of sand paper at this time. I'm using cut off scraps from past projects - leftover sheets. Elbows and wrists are sore from sanding with worn out paper. If I wanted to spend $10-$12 on a package of quality sand paper and a couple foam brushes, the bubbles would not be there. I'm just trying to keep it cheap and learn a new technique for right now. The finer details will come when I'm working on a serious project with a bigger budget. Thank you for the compliment.
Posted on: 6/12/2011 10:29 AM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10569693

RE: Sig Koverall and Minwax Polycrylic
Stab is ready for paint. Top of the elevator is still drying.
Posted on: 6/12/2011 2:27 AM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10569203

RE: Sig Koverall and Minwax Polycrylic
Got off in a little bit different direction but don't worry, it's along the same lines as the Koverall. [;)] I'm using minwax polycrylic and 0.6 oz cloth on the horizontal stab and elevator. Painted one layer of poly onto the 3/16" slab balsa. Let it tack up for a few hours. Sanded real quick with 400 and then 600. Sanded easy. Knocked the fuzzy spots off and hit it with the tack cloth. Placed the fiberglass cloth on and brushed it down with a coat of polycrylic. I'm letting it tack up for 30-40min and then hit the edges with the covering iron set to 1/3 power. Planning to sand and fill this. One coat of full strength poly out of the can. Sand it. Then thinned poly for one layer and sand it. Prime and paint. Bottom of the stab before cutting off excess. After cutting off and sealing edges with iron.
Posted on: 6/11/2011 11:33 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10569136

RE: Sig Koverall and Minwax Polycrylic
[quote]ORIGINAL: huck1199 Looks very nice.  Why did you thin with alcohol instead of water?  [/quote] Thanks. Dunno. Figured it would evaporate out. Next time thin with water? [sm=confused.gif] It ain't pretty from up close. It's got little bubbles all over in the finish. I made the mistake of shaking the minwax polycrylic. It was full of micro-bubbles and they didn't brush out of those first 2 layers. [b]STIR[/b] your polycrylic. [u]DO NOT[/u] shake it. It'll work. I'm learning a new technique and it's fun. I wish I had learned to use fabric a long time ago. Love the way the seams disappear. A buddy came over and took a look. He said it all feels smooth and looks great.
Posted on: 6/11/2011 8:19 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10568927

RE: Sig Koverall and Minwax Polycrylic
Initially I put 2 coats of polycrylic on the fabric and then sanded with 400. I didn't go crazy with the sanding. I just worked on a couple runs and a few spots where a piece of dust or lent landed in the paint. Then I thinned the polycrylic with denatured alcohol. I had about 1/2 a pint can left at that point, so I only added about 1 tablespoon of the alcohol to thin. It was quite a bit thinner. Brush strokes disappeared. I kept on using the same brush throughout this entire phase of the project. I just washed it in warm water each night with a little liquid hand soap. During the day when I was working with the brush I stored it in a jar of water. 2 more coats of thinned and sanded with 600 grit between coats. It's FAR from perfect. Shot thin layer of white primer. Krylon paint. Sanded the primer and shot another very thin layer. Sanded with 600 grit. Then shot white Krylon satin gloss. I had it lying around and it was a new can that matched the same brand of primer I sprayed on earlier, so I used it. I shot the first coat and let it dry about 4hrs. Sanded a few spots with 1000 grit and shot it again. The clear strips on the bottom of the wing will get a few coats of krylon clear. I'm going to put an LED light kit inside the fuselage. The angle of the side windows will allow the light to shine up inside the wing...... I hope. Pretty much done with the wing. Couple coats of clear and a little more sanding. I am going to move forward with the fuse and tail surfaces. Will use same techniques. Let me know if you want to see pics of that.
Posted on: 6/11/2011 7:38 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10568882

RE: Sig Koverall and Minwax Polycrylic
Thank you. Not a lot of work today. Got stalled. Sanding the 2nd coat now.
Posted on: 6/10/2011 8:35 PM by Author "Rcpilot" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10567594