RE: Couple of newbie questions
Something not mentioned on either of those two wonderful sites is the order in which one combines the ingredients. I was instructed to add the castor oil firstly then the ether, shake to taste and then add the kero - it seems to combine easier and more thoroughly this way. The reason being that castor being a plant derived oil will not dissolve well in the mineral based kerosene and needs the agent of ether between the two. (And the ether washes the castor nicely off the side walls of my large glass measuring tube!) Cheers.
Posted on: 9/18/2012 12:54 AM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232030

RE: Club Mills!
A hardened steel washer or shim maybe easier to take the play out as duplicating the exact angle the crankshaft has is going to be difficult, and unecessary in the end.
Posted on: 9/16/2012 4:17 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11230343

RE: MVVS F2C Diesel
I note well that the ad states nowhere is this a running workable engine though as the obvious description of - "Rear exhaust , Drum valve Nelson type head Looks as new-very clean. Strong compression New Rossi Team Racing propeller as a bonus Sell as is " tells me little that I don't already know. Along with Derfly I smell a rat with that different backplate.
Posted on: 9/13/2012 8:02 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227895

RE: MVVS F2C Diesel
Are my eyes deceiving me Ray is it that backplate not screwed home for some reason? I am sure that I can see the retaining bolts shaft between the rear cover and the crank case. Sign of a really poor fit and mix and match components?
Posted on: 9/13/2012 5:51 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227781

RE: OS10 FP
[quote]ORIGINAL: earlwb A drill bit may work Ok too, I just didn't like the slight tapered bit of a hole leftover after the head is drilled off. [/quote] I have drilled out rusted head screws with a slightly under sized drill bit and find that the last wafer thin vestige tends to twist off just before head contact. And its rare to find that the shaft of the screw bound into the case so just use some mulit grips to grip, twist and extract or dremel a slot across the shaft and screw out with a flat bladed driver normally. Cheers.
Posted on: 9/13/2012 5:09 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227735

RE: OS 10 FP issue
[quote]ORIGINAL: qazimoto Acetal also machines beautifully. Ray [/quote] Indeed it does Ray, I have some team race wheels made in the same from a friend of yours Brent, (and they look like miniature vinyal records!)
Posted on: 9/11/2012 8:15 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225484

RE: OS 10 FP issue
[quote]ORIGINAL: ffkiwi I dunno Ray-what's going to keep it in location without a stem-just a jam fit in the gudgeon pin hole?.......mind you if the stem IS redundant then most of my previous concerns disappear-you just shape it on the rod and slice it off.... ChrisM 'ffkiwi' [/quote] Hah! Its Chris mate, not Ray - you do me too much credit. I simply can't see a 0.8mm stem of plastic positively locating anything. Positive location surely must be achieved by the outer diameter or I am a monkeys uncle. And where is this jammed in pad going to migrate to? Its bounded by the liners wall on the outside, the wrist pin on the inside and a tight fit inside the little end elsewhere. And if its mated by doming then it can't possibly tilt or spin.
Posted on: 9/10/2012 10:47 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224638

RE: OS 10 FP issue
Hey Chris, I understand where you are coming from mate but I see the tiny stub as entirely redundant if you get a tight fitting disk from a piece of rod (yeah tubing, I agree - its sounds kinda weird!) The domed outer surface honestly can't be that hard, dome it before paring the rod off. That way it is still gripped in the chuck. And why bother? Because it has been intimated that you can't buy them so why not give it a go!
Posted on: 9/10/2012 10:29 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224629

RE: OS 10 FP issue
Just a simple search here shows that it can be done - http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10343218/anchors_10343953/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#10343953
Posted on: 9/10/2012 10:08 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224613

RE: OS 10 FP issue
[quote]ORIGINAL: ffkiwi and how do you grip it-once you've cut it to size-and need to check it in situ and adjust accordingly? ffkiwi [/quote] Ok I am probably going to show my ignorance here but hey, I am used to it - 1. Cut off enough rod (say 2") and place into drill chuck. 2. Place drill either in a stand or vice, I doubt that it matters which as teflon machines like a dream, 3. On a low speed place a flat jewelers file against the rod until it it approximates the big end journals ID, 4. Check fit and repeat step 3 until you achieve a firm push fit. 5. Pare of the length needed with a razor knife, 6. Rinse and repeat for the other side. I have done exactly this with wood, copper and brass previously so a tiny rod of teflon should be easy as! Steps 5 and 6 is how I cut copper tube when making tanks, the cut is dead square and very clean but simply takes a few minutes at a low speed with a firm push. P.S. Are we sure that the stub on the inside is strictly necessary?
Posted on: 9/10/2012 9:39 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224599

RE: OS 10 FP issue
Not that I have tried but where is the hard task in placing some 6mm PTFE (teflon) rod in a drill chuck and spinning it down with a small file? Surely all that these rub buttons have to be is a simple firm push fit into the small ends, reassemble and thats it? A quick check on the US EBay site tells me that if you are spending over $10 for a small length of rod then something is amiss.
Posted on: 9/10/2012 8:41 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224550

RE: OS 10 FP issue
[quote]ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r I'm not sure if he works with engines as small as a .10 (ci?) [/quote] Well his feed back tells me that he does work on 0.12ci engines so I guess that size of engine holds no fear for him.
Posted on: 9/3/2012 11:08 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216542

RE: OS 10 FP issue
Martin, try this guy - http://www.rayaracing.com/ But I don't know if a worn piston can be corrected by this guys technique.
Posted on: 9/3/2012 7:13 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216340

RE: What prop size for .15 Sport UC plnes?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Jim Thomerson I ended up running a 9 x 8 on one of Ian Russel's Cheetah engines. I plan to try an 8 x 8. [/quote] 8 inches of pitch! Wow, thats a lot. Is it intended for a free flight application?
Posted on: 9/3/2012 4:00 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216118

RE: Fake Oliver Tiger diesels
After having read all of this I am on Ray's side of the story. If the vendor is sketchy about something then say nothing as its a far more accurate description, but to embellish a sale item beyond confirmed knowledge is misrepresenation and criminal and the onis is squarely on their shoulders here. And its more than fair to assume that a deliberate description to be valid and nothing beyond greed forced the vendor to type the way they did. They added the unconfirmed statements, no one else, so they alone are responsible as ignorance is no saviour in law. Rant over.
Posted on: 9/3/2012 3:58 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216115

RE: What prop size for .15 Sport UC plnes?
[quote]ORIGINAL: AMB Steve I do not fly c/l at this point 9x4 or 8x5 may depend on the plane what gives more thrust the 8x5 or 9x4 ??? martin What RPMs do you turn on the above they certainly will swing an 8x6 martin [/quote] Thrust is determined by diameter, airspeed by pitch, so a 9x4 will give more thrust than an 8x5. And I agree with Steve about the 8x6 as a great start point for all 2.5cc diesels.
Posted on: 9/2/2012 5:26 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11214957

RE: Diesel prop size
I don't have the time to read this entire link but it 'may' be of some help- http://modelenginenews.org/ad/frog349.html
Posted on: 9/2/2012 4:56 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11214914

RE: 2.5cc diesel day
[quote]ORIGINAL: qazimoto [quote]ORIGINAL: fiery Is Mr Russell still selling engines? If so a link to a current stock and price list would be much appreciated. [/quote] I think he's still selling engines. Can't find a current link to a pricelist anywhere but why not email him direct at: rustler@aero.fslife.co.uk Ray [/quote] Try here Ray, page 13 but it does date to 2010 - https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:R2Qkb0Qvp3gJ:www.cmac.net.nz/resources/mags/ST/10/ST38.pdf+stick+and+tissue+rustler+price+list&hl=en&gl=au&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESjf4p4-a2-y-wWAoI0X0lo3uEIMr4iP3ImVqEGLDr6JIzCvNxPVH3ENEyVi3j-PWFgTl_6fIEK33-U2FbwF994oh0Zdhct7PcIxr2jk0PHagFFkhPe2xFJLcrrCQ_12b9sO0hCI&sig=AHIEtbSz_yiyR7PQ-FWy2F8MtVMxol5Uxw
Posted on: 8/30/2012 7:46 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11212174

RE: PAW BACK PLATE REMOVER
[quote]ORIGINAL: qazimoto ..... push the chuck clockwise and the cylinder the other way. [/quote] If its on that tight as to need a lathe for grip I would never use the barrel as a lever, use the engine mounting lugs as its far safer but maybe I am splitting straws here.
Posted on: 8/19/2012 5:00 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199026

RE: PAW BACK PLATE REMOVER
[quote]ORIGINAL: ffkiwi I use large diameter steel washers for the same thing-they go by the name of 'fender washers' or 'repair washers' and I have several different sizes to match the PAW backplates. They're normally used for patching/covering holes in sheet metal, and have a fairly small centre hole and large disc area, and are about 1/16" thick. Judging by the size and shape of the PAW backplate slots, I assume PAW does them with a small slitting saw rather than a milling cutter. ChrisM 'ffkiwi' [/quote] I fully agree with all the above and just wish to extend on this by recanting on a visit to Dave Owens workshop where all of this was put into practice. Grip the washer halfway up in a sturdy vice, place some gloves on and lightly heat the back plate (an LPG torch was used in this example) and then place the warmed backplate down onto the washer. Lean down hard against the washer with the engine, lock you wrists and elbows and twist using the engine's mounting lugs (not the barrel) using your hips. This way is the best to reduce accidental slippage and burring the backplate, and at worst hurting yourself because some of these backplates are a biatch to get off due to gumming. Cheers.
Posted on: 8/13/2012 8:13 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11192450

RE: PAW .033 spray bar Orientation
[quote]ORIGINAL: ffkiwi (i)single hole-generally traditionally pointed straight down (but there is some recent debate about whether this is the 'best' position for a single hole jet) ChrisM 'ffkiwi' [/quote] Heya Chris, its been lab tested by Bill Lee that a single hole should be just below the horizon or about 5º below level for maximum fuel draw. But here is the problem with that, is it can not really be verified in the air and it seems to be a critical position as a few degrees off that sweet spot will render the efficiency to be jus the same as any other workable position. In my humble opinion though, the 'just below the horizon' is something to aim for as you have nothing to lose to you are off a tad and everything to gain if you happen to get it right. What I have against the straight down position is possible flow reversion - just stand on a bridge, look down and view from above the water flowing around a piling. On the downstream side the flow wants to revert back to the direction it came from (or at least tries to) and in the process causes swirling. Now what I don't know is if this matters in a pulsed system like that found in an IC engine as flow is built up and then stripped away many times a second. With true venturis (no spraybar) the most consisent place for a jet is indeed 'just below the horizon' on its side wall so I would run with that. Thanks.
Posted on: 8/13/2012 8:01 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11192434

RE: CS .30 Twin
I have vague recollections of seeing a PAW 'V' twin but perhaps it was fan made and not done by the factory.
Posted on: 7/24/2012 7:44 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11168064

RE: Modella 12( MMVS)D
[quote]ORIGINAL: ffkiwi Hmmn-I suppose we should expect this-there is ample precedent with many Brit engines with plain disc crankwebs and heavy pistons where vibration doesn't seem to be the issue you'd expect. [/quote] I have always put this down to the added flywheel weight of a full circle crank web evens out the rapid onset ignition and compression loads of a model diesel at the expense of primary balance.
Posted on: 7/19/2012 8:04 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11161944

RE: Diamonds in the rough
Hi Chris, the problem with carbon dating by using an accesory like a muffler is that it could have been a post addition. My old PAW 19 came with no muffler, later added a ring type then a canister type but I know it was originally made in about 1972 - so who really knows when Fiery's engines where made?
Posted on: 7/5/2012 5:08 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11144550

RE: Aurora K 600 R/C
[quote]ORIGINAL: steve111 I've found my PAW 35 to be a good first or second flick starter, but that's mounted sidewinder. Upright on the bench, it seems to take quite a while for the fuel to get up into the cylinder, then it just suddenly goes. Either way, it wants to have the comp wound up a good half a turn to get it to fire (can't prime the side of the piston due to the muffler). [/quote] That is pretty much how my PAW goes too Steve (in my limited experience with it) but there is nothing wrong with installing a nipple on the top perimeter of the collector ring as a priming point and let the fuel dribble down onto the closed exhaust port.
Posted on: 7/2/2012 7:52 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11140704

RE: PAW crankshaft failure
Thanks Derek, the explanation was good. Part of a standard PAW tune up is stripping the engine, which in your case is a given, and lightening the piston by drilling away the inside lower piston skirt. And with the 29 model has a lot of extra metal in its construction as it was the first 4 head bolt engine by them and was designed to be enlarged - witness the 35 actually being lighter here!! (I have heard that the contra piston is quite thick compared to the rest of the range.) The other part of a tune up that may seem like its useless is the correct reassembly of parts and torquing the head bolts evenly needs to be done in order to prevent barrel tilt although its far more of an issue with the three bolt designs. (That and the afore mentioned ball race preloads which don't really count here.) So if PAW are going to fit a new crank the to me its horribly obvious to get them to tune it along the way. Cheers.
Posted on: 6/21/2012 7:48 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11127243

RE: PAW crankshaft failure
[quote]ORIGINAL: RDJeff Yep, this shaft is tapered for the drive collar. I used a socket in the vise and it popped loose pretty easily. I contacted PAW, and was advised that the crank is no longer available, but if I send the engine to them, they can mix in some second hand or lightly used parts to get it back in the air. [/quote] If this engine is going back to the Old Dart then perhaps a tune up may be in order also? Check the PAW web site for details.
Posted on: 6/20/2012 7:07 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11125960

RE: MVVS 40 Diesel
And another one! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-model-engine-diesel-6-5-MVVS-made-in-Czechoslovakia-/270999187012?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f18cf6e44 Standard issue MVVS?
Posted on: 6/19/2012 7:47 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11124611

RE: PAW crankshaft failure
[quote]ORIGINAL: RDJeff Ah! I got a bit confused reading the word collect. I believe this one has the taper for the drive collar, though I haven't pulled that part off yet. I was looking at it last night, and that seems to be the case. [/quote] Oops, spell check please!!
Posted on: 6/13/2012 7:15 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11117449

RE: PAW crankshaft failure
[quote]ORIGINAL: RDJeff This is a .29BR, doesn't appear to have any taper on the crank. I'm not sure what you mean by a split collect. It's not a full circle crank, but I can't tell you what type of balancing it has. I pulled it all apart, and yes, the broken crank is all the damage I can find. The engine only had about 8 four minute flights on it, total, so you could say it has very low time on it. I'm reluctant to pay postage to the UK and back, so if I can jsut buy a crank, I'll be much happier. Thanks! [/quote] Some of the older PAW's crank shafts have a taper machined forward of the front bearing that locks a matching tapered drive collar down on to it, whilst newer ones have a seperate split collet that does all this instead. A split collet in this case is a short length of tube or collar that has a parallel internal diameter (so that it can be slid along the length of the shaft to a suitable position), a tapered external diameter and it is split along its length to accomodate the clamping forces gained against the crank shaft from tightening the prop nut down - in short it wedges itself onto the crank very tightly. Since the 29 is a single ball raced engine you should have no problem with preloading between two ball races then - that was my issue with doing all this yourself.
Posted on: 6/12/2012 5:02 PM by Author "Recycled Flyer" in the forum "Everything Diesel"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11116127