RE: How to fix crack in hull
If it is just the joint seam, I would add some resin and chopped matting to the inside of the cracked area. First clean the inside of your hull with acetone. It is a hard area to get to, so spend a lot of time, with a long, small brush, and do a very good job. If it is in an area that you cannot see and reach, cut a slit , the full length of the crack, with a die grinder. Then add a fold of fine weave fiberglass clothe, that is soaked in resin. I use a knife with the clothe folded over the end if it. Push it in only 1/4". Good luck.
Posted on: 5/25/2009 8:12 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8797916

Stolen, 1/8th scale Smirnoff
This is a very long shot in the dark. I built an all fiberglass 1/8th scale, 48" Smirnoff hydroplane with a .60 Enya engine, that was stolen from my storage area, in San Jose, Ca, in 1983. It is the boat in my avatar. The boat was RTR, blue with red trim. It also had live exhuast. I know it has been forever, but I keep seeing things coming out of atics and basements. No boater would destroy this boat. I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask. Thanks. Rock
Posted on: 5/22/2009 1:28 AM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8789246

RE: Mean Machine rebuilt
Thanks Dan. I will give it a shot. It will be a couple of weeks before I get my prop from Mecoa. Rock.
Posted on: 5/18/2009 1:47 AM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8778025

RE: Mean Machine rebuilt
Thanks Dan. I am also thinking that it has a very crisp throttle at 2.5 turns on the needle. Would 3 be a little better starting point during break in time? Rock
Posted on: 5/17/2009 10:58 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8777669

RE: Mean Machine rebuilt
First trip to the water, with this new boat, yesterday. It appears to have too much prop (250). There is no cavitaion so the prop bites right at the get- go. Stalls the engine in ten feet. I have a 230 prop on its way. I might have to experiment to get some cavitation at the start. Rock
Posted on: 5/17/2009 5:07 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8776759

RE: Nitro Fuel
There are many points of view on the issue of concrete floors and fuel jugs. Quality of the jug seems to be the key here. There are many types of plastics. The best will handle some of the strongest acids in the world. Metal cans can be eaten through by CokaCola. It is important to know what kind of metal you are using for what liquid. Most of us just buy the cheapest container that is the correct size and color. We believe the third world country that labeled it as a Heavy Duty Fuel can. The scientific world believes it is a myth that a good container will draw moisture from a concrete floor. They say that concrete is usually cooler than the air above it and this causes condesation. Many places in the US have humidity levels of 50% to 80%. This moisture, in the air in your container, will condense out and settle to the bottom of your fuel. A full container will keep longer than a contianer half full of air. Here is a cut and paste from this web site. It starts of talking about battey cases. "All lead-acid batteries will naturally self-discharge which can result in loss of capacity from sulfation. The rate of self-discharge is most influenced by the temperature of the battery's electrolyte and the chemistry of the plates. This self-discharge is often mistaken for concrete floor causing the battery to drain. Some experts believe that storing car or deep cycle batteries on a colder concrete floor might actually slow down the self-discharge (leakage) rate because the floor acts as a heat sink and cools the battery. (Please see Section 13 for more information on storing batteries and Section 1 for more information on sulfation. In the early 1900s, when battery cases were made of porous materials such as tar-lined wood boxes, storing batteries on concrete floor would accelerate their natural self-discharge due to external leakage. Modern battery cases are made of polypropylene or hard rubber. These cases are sealed better, so external leakage-causing discharge is no longer a problem, provided the top of the battery is clean and free from wet or dried electrolyte and the same temperature as the floor. I imagine the myth about storing fuel on concrete floors have perpetuated in the same way, i.e. given time, any crud dissolved in the fuel would settle out over time and gather at the bottom of the jug. Folks seeing this particulate matter would assume that the concrete was to blame. But then again, this is purely conjecture..." Hope this helps,
Posted on: 5/12/2009 4:12 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8763169

RE: Mean Machine rebuilt
Thanks guys. The 1970's KB motor started right up. Set the needle at 2.5 turns. Did not even prime the carb. I think it's fuel pump does the job. It's the first fuel pump I have ever run. I guess I am all set for inverted flight.[:)] I was surprised at the fast throttle response and how the torque made the boat jump on the stand. Only ran a couple of ounces of 20% with a water bottle hanging over the boat. I am ready for a pond but I don't have a retrieval boat yet. I need to find a friend in San Jose, Ca. area. Rock
Posted on: 5/11/2009 10:31 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8761254

RE: Thunder Tiger Outlaw 7.5
[quote]ORIGINAL: bigcam406 Are you having any problems still with the adapter for the flexshaft coming loose? [/quote] I read that the clearance between the strut and the prop dog should be equal to the diameter of your shaft. Do you have enough clearance on your boat?
Posted on: 5/9/2009 1:20 AM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8753486

RE: How can an ABS glued hull be split?
Hi Matt. I think the guys are being a little rough on you, but sincere. I have seen the foam blow sheet rock off walls. [:@] You are doing the correct thing. Test it so you know what to expect. If it is possible, drill 1/2" holes in the upper deck at both ends of your hull and in the middle. More holes don't hurt. This will allow the foam to run and expand all the way to both ends, leaving very little air pockets, or soft spots. If it looks like there is any heat building up, put a cold wet towel on the outside of the hull to protect the ABS. You can buy special ABS cement, to plug your holes, after you cut the excess foam away. The hardware store sells ABS cement in the plumbing dept. Use a scrap piece of ABS, in the hole and make sure all the paint is sanded away first. Have fun and good luck. ps Remember, this could be a place to trap water and never dry out, making your hull very heavy.[:o]
Posted on: 5/8/2009 7:11 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8752593

RE: Need opinions
Looks great Scott. Good job. The only way to find a new way to do something, is to try it. Failures are not failures, they are necessary steps to get closer to success. Rock
Posted on: 5/8/2009 4:08 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8752123

RE: Cab settings....
It may not have anything to do with your mixture. Perhaps the throttle just needs to close more.
Posted on: 5/7/2009 12:44 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8748571

RE: Mean Machine rebuilt
Rebuild is fininished, just add fuel and probably many hours of adjustments.[:D] I am using three things on this rebuild that I have never used before. A flex shaft, auto bailers and flush mounted water pickups. My C/G is 1/3 of length from the transom. My total dry weight is 7.5 lbs. I am starting with a Prather 250 prop. Balanced and polished. I am running dual 6oz. tanks. the first tank is pressurized by the pipe to fill the second tank. The second tank is connected to the KB fuel pump, via a fuel filter. I am using a Futaba 3003 servo for the throttle with a Futaba Fail Safe and a 3010 servo for the rudder. My pipe length is starting at 11" from glo plug to end of fat cone. That is following the center line of the pipe. One water pickup feeds the cylinder head and one feeds the header cooler. Both water outlets are behind the muffler at the transom. Any question on other specs, just ask. All of you out there have shared so much with me to help bridge the 30 years I have been out of this sport. Thank you very much. This rebuild has been fun. Let's see if she runs. It could be a few weeks before I get her wet. Wish me luck. Rock
Posted on: 5/6/2009 1:09 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8744506

RE: Orange you glad Prather Tunnel ?
[quote]ORIGINAL: losifiend That picture is [size=7]HUGE[/size] and makes it hard to see. Can you re size it? [/quote] Just click on the picture. It will resize itself.
Posted on: 5/6/2009 1:44 AM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8744708

RE: Mean Machine rebuilt
Thanks. I know nothing at all about these engines, so I am really shooting from the hip. Any info on needle settings and pipe length is greatly appreciated. Please pass on what ever you know or might hear. Rock
Posted on: 5/6/2009 1:05 AM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8744658

RE: After run oil?
[quote]ORIGINAL: darkseacret Marvin Mystery Oil works also, just a couple drops in the crab. and hand cycle engine a few times [/quote] I think he means Marvel Mystery Oil.[8|]
Posted on: 5/1/2009 11:00 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8733218

RE: tape removal ,goo
"Goo Gone" works on most tape goo. Try the local hardware store. There are some weather strippings that are very thin, about 1/16 un-compressed.
Posted on: 5/1/2009 10:53 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8733209

RE: 38 Dumas scarab build help needed
I use to make my own radio boxes out of Lexan, but I found prefabbed plastic boxes with a sealed lid an Tapplastic.com. The one I bought was 4"x4"x2" for under $4. Can't make them for that. Good luck.
Posted on: 4/30/2009 10:28 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8730501

RE: Mean Machine rebuilt
Hello 3ns. Yes, I am the bald headed old man driving. That photo was taken at a Poker Run on Lake Shasta a couple of years ago. We were runing about 95 and the wind was blowing my wifes bathing suit open.lol.
Posted on: 4/30/2009 11:43 AM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8728863

RE: Mean Machine rebuilt
The most common way is to make a "Plug". A Plug being something that is shaped the way you want your new piece, in this case a Canopy. You can use any material you want. Modeling clay is very easy to use. When you like what you have shaped, PVA and fiberglass the top side. Use enough material that it will hold it's shape while you work with it, like a wood frame around the outside of it. Then take the clay (Plug) out of of your new mold, sand it smooth and coat it with a PVA (a mold releasing agent) that keeps the fiberglass from sticking to the mould. Then lay two or three layers of the finest weave fiberglass you can buy, alternating resin and clothe. Brush out as much excess resin as possible to keep your new canopy light. If you read the begining of this thread, you will see that I shortcut the entire operation, if I am building a "one off" piece. If I were smart, I would use the Plug method and make many pieces, and try to sell them as a Mean Machine mod, but my luck, I am the only one in the world who wants it. :-)
Posted on: 4/29/2009 11:38 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8727765

RE: Mean Machine rebuilt
Here is the finished paint job. All I have to do is re-assemble the boat and set it up. Below are the before and after photos and the real boat that I want to give an impression of. The entire purpose of this re-build was to bring the Mean Machine hull to resemble the HTM hull. This was not to duplicate, just an impression of. This was fun.
Posted on: 4/29/2009 6:14 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8726718

RE: Mean Machine rebuilt
In the beginning I talked about finishing this boat in Gel Coat. We spray Gel Coat on real boats and cover it with a PVA to allow it to cure. Then you must color sand and polish it. I have changed my mind on this model. I am in a hurry to get in the water so I am using spray enamel and a clear coat to protect it from the nitro. My past experiences say I will need to repair it from time to time. The photos show that I have finished the entire hull in white. The graphics will go on in several layers. I first draw out the pattern and use it to apply the masking tape. With a larger budget, I would go the the paint store and buy all the same brand, in the colors I want, and know everything is compatable. I bought spray paint at different stores, trying to get close to the colors I wanted. I have had some bad luck with compatability. I have more time than money, so I am just dealing with the issue. I recommend using all the same brand to eliminate the head aches. I am trying to come close to the colors of my real boat, and that is not easy.
Posted on: 4/28/2009 3:13 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8723056

RE: Good day
You are making me anxious to get mine in the water. Maybe two more weeks.
Posted on: 4/26/2009 12:21 AM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8715644

RE: Mean Machine rebuilt
I haven't mentioned that the Mean Machine hull is very light weight. You can take a hold of both ends and twist it in opposite directions which will cause cracks in the corners of the hatch opening. I installed a bulkhead under the bow that will stop that twist. I am sure this hull was built very light to help the .18 engine do it's job. With the new 7.5 engine, I would like a little more strength.
Posted on: 4/24/2009 11:08 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8713052

RE: New HD Vid long but check out the successful back flip at the end.
That is a great video. I want to be able to run my new RC along side my real boat. A little over-kill for the retreaval boat. [:)] Looks like your set up is pretty good.
Posted on: 4/23/2009 10:33 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8710313

RE: Mean Machine rebuilt
Years ago we made our own servo/reciever box out of lexan. I went down to my local plastics retailer, Tap Plastics, to buy what I needed. They had 4"x4"x2" boxes with a fitted lid for $3.85. Can't make em for that. I bet those of you out of this area could by them on line at Tapplastic.com. It was the perfect size for my application. I think I am about ready to dis-assemble everything and paint this boat.
Posted on: 4/19/2009 12:14 AM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8694547

RE: Mean Machine rebuilt
Notice the rudder in the last post. I am in the process of making a new aluminum rubber that is set forward of the Mean Machine OEM. In the 70's, when we built 1/8 scale hydros, the rudders we made were 70% behind the pivot shaft and 30% forward. This took a load off the servo and we ran dual servos then. The Mean Machine OEM rudder was set way back from the pivot point which also put it in contact with my new Prather 250 prop. The new rudder will give clearance for the larger prop and take a load off the servo. It also allows me to keep the rudder location closer to the middle of the boat and eliminate some of the one sided drag. I haven't finished this rudder yet.
Posted on: 4/13/2009 11:25 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8679066

RE: Mean Machine rebuilt
Thanks guys. This is going slower than I wanted. I have too many distractions. The weather here in Northern Cal. is boating season. Real and RC. The fiberglass work goes very fast as long as the temp is over 70. But now I am slowed down with the hardware. I am wearing out nuts and screws with all the fitting. I have also had to reorder parts that did not work out. For those of you who want to get on the water and play right now, the RTR's are the way to go and they should save you a lot of money. I love design, parts fab and building the boat. I like to take a thought and make it work, sometimes against advise from others. Today I fitted dual flush mounted water pickups in the rear of the sponsons. One for the engine and one for the exhaust flange. I have never used them before. I have always use a pickup in the prop wash. If it doesn't work I will change back.
Posted on: 4/13/2009 11:12 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8678859

RE: Mean Machine rebuilt
I have been on a long vacation. It is time to get back to work on this project. I know there is not a ton of interest here, but I stated it and I will finish it. Built the flex shaft tube and fitted it. I see other "How To" posts but this is how I did it. If someone sees a major problem with the set up, let me know. It is easier to change now, than later. I used two brass tubes, one inside the other with matching OD to the others ID. The larger Tube is only 1" long and fiberglassed into the hull. The inner, flex shaft tube, can move in the hull when adjusting the strut height. I did not mount the engine with the crankshaft parrallel to the prop shaft. I did this for the head to clear my cowling and to angle the exhaust in the right direction. I also wanted the CG as low as possible. The flywheel is as low to the bottom as it can be.
Posted on: 4/12/2009 11:01 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8675427

RE: wet exhaust
You may add water anyplace beyond the end of your stinger. Do not add water in either cone of you tuned pipe. The water expands when it gets hot and displaces air, causing the pipe to not scavenge as it is designed. You also run the risk of sucking water back into the engine. Even on the Real boat engines, it is possible to suck wated back with long duration cams. I take it you want a realistic look to your boat. If so, you will be building some sort of dual exhaust collector system to add behind your tuned pipe. You have to look for a spot that will not create exhaust pressure into your waterline. I like to put it as close to the exhuast outlet as possible. If the water outlet is centered and a 90 degree angle to the exhaust flow, the exhaust can actually siphen the water like a srpay gun blows paint. Here is a photo of mine. I don't have the water fittings in yet, but they will go in behind the rectangular Stainless Steel collector box. One fitting in each exhaust outlet. Have fun.
Posted on: 3/22/2009 9:19 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8605228

RE: Mean Machine rebuilt
Thanks TCHedOff. I will get a new tube and flex shaft. If I had seen that thread I could have saved you the typing.
Posted on: 3/16/2009 8:04 PM by Author "Rocket-J" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8585140