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RE: Remake of MK Kits from Naruke
The first thing I thought when I saw the post was WOW!!!! NO WAY!!! WAY COOL!!! We'll see.
Posted on: 6/19/2013 1:32 AM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11542797
RE: Gasket Sets for the YS-60...
[quote]ORIGINAL: MTK Bryan, Please understand that back then, the original paper gaskets in the YS's represented a very real problem for all of us YS users and Ron's solution helped dozens of engines get back on their feet so to speak. I think his information sharing has a place in this thread just the same as your info sharing does. Or mine.....These threads should be about info sharing, no?? Having said that I found some Leak-Free's the other day in one of my bins (looking for something else of course). [/quote] MTK, I got that part and think what he did was great. I almost posted that I'd like to have several sets then he mentioned he didn't have the tools to make any more. So that was a bummer. Also the info that those gaskets if found on an engine are reusable is of great value. Understood all that and I agree about the sharing of information. That said this is an issue that only would only affect a YS engine not all engines. It is the blanket warning statement about paper gaskets which was the wet blanket I was talking about. grotto2, I have used laser jet paper to make gaskets for my OS Max 40, 45, and 60 FSR's, and have used the Perfect Gasket Material from Tower Hobbies to make awesome exhaust gaskets. All work fine. As far as the YS 60's and YS 61's I have a supply of NIP gaskets purchased from YS several years back. So I haven't had to make any for those engines yet. I can imagine how much a pain those old gaskets were. Your solution excellant. I will now go back and recheck all my YS engines to see if I have inadvertantly got a package of the older gaskets installed. I believe all the ones I have in packages and installed have the ys name printed on parts of the gaskets so they should be fine. Bryan
Posted on: 6/19/2013 12:32 AM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11547386
RE: Used AutoCad
Here's a tutorial for taking a plan you have scanning it to a digital format and importing it into Draftsight so you can trace parts. It's not finished but should help to get you started. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10424372
Posted on: 9/18/2012 2:28 AM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232060
RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build
Ralph, As for the pin hole issue, if it was me, I don't think I would have handled it as well as you did. I most likely would have been so upset that I would have had to walk away from it for a few months So good job keeping the pedal to the metal. By the way I really love the way the balsa looks right after the last coat of dope goes on. More than any other time that's when you can actually see all the work and craftsmanship you've put in the plane. Other than these build threads most will never see the progression of the build and enjoy the satisfaction that comes when it all comes together. Painting covers up al the great work done so only the builder knows whats on the inside. As with your build and other builds i get a chance to vicariously take part and enjoy the results until I can find the time to build myself. Nice job. Bryan
Posted on: 9/17/2012 8:30 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11231897
RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build
Hey R_G, I've been following your thread and although your are finally gtting ready to shoot the color coat I wanted to suggest that maybe the U_Pol primer was the cause of the pinholing problem you had. I went to thier website and downloadd the MSDS sheet and that Primer was not laquer primer. According to thier MSDS sheet the main three ingredients are; 1. Ethyl Methyl Ketone 2. Butane (most likely propelant) and 3. xylene. Definitly not laquer primer. Since the dope can be re-wetted with more dope, whether it's Nitrate or butyrate, I'm thinking that primer is the culprit not the sanding sealer. I do think you were right about the sanding sealer shrinking up more than it should have but I don't think it was the cause of the horrible pinhole problem you had. I can imagine how you felt when you realized the extent of the problem. As I was following the thread and I came across the wing pics where they were almost completely red I was gonna ask what it was that you were putting on the wing. After viewing all those pics I realized you were having a really bad time with pinholing. I wanted to share that I used the same process you are using on a sig Kobra I built years ago only difference was I didn't use any gray primer rattle can or primer that you mix and spray . After I had sanded and recoated the dope multiple times until I finally believed i had what I thought was a good sprayable base and I went straight to color. At that time I used 3 different colors of Krylon spray paint and it worked great, no pin hole problems. The Technical Datasheet for the High 5 U-Pol primer also suggests using it as follows HIGH #5 can be applied to the following surfaces:- • Fully cured paint. • Polyester bodyfillers and F.R.P. (Fiber Reinforced Pastic or Polymer) which suggests to me that it's probably to hot for dope hence the cause of the pinholing. the following pdfs and the MSDS and TDS maybe not in that order.
Posted on: 9/16/2012 9:30 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11230634
RE: landing bounce
My 2 cents. Anyone consider that maybe its an engine thrust problem e.g. No downthrust or possibly up thrust on the engine? I have a Kaos that had two much down thrust (4 degrees down) and it stuck to the landing strip like glue until I applied up elevator at which point it would pop into the air. In this case I was thinking the opposite that it the thrust was at zero or up instead of down and that this could be causing the bounce. The only other thing I could think of would be too much positive incidence on the wing.
Posted on: 9/16/2012 12:44 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11230153
RE: Scale pattern plane?
I have been playing around with this idea for a while and hear is something I've been working on a F8F Pattern Bearcat. Basically take a WW2 Scale fighter and stretch it out. Something like this. It's not a classic pattern plane but it is a classic. You could use wings from any classic pattern plane or come up with your own. As long as the plane can be trimmed true then and you can fly the patterns, why not.
Posted on: 9/12/2012 7:44 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11226797
RE: Header for Magic 60
auggie I got out a YS60 and my Hatori Magic 60 header for a OS Max 61VF just to see if there was any possibility of getting it to work with the YS and as you can see from the first pic the OS Hatori header has a large circle vs a slim rectangular port of the YS 60. It could be done with an adapter plate and elongating the mounting bolt holes in the header to the outside. Hole diamters are slightly different that then the dimensions show witht he YS having a slightly larger center to center diameter. see pic The adapter plate could be made very easily out of an 3/16" peice of flat aluminum.
Posted on: 9/7/2012 10:25 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11218031
RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build
RG, It won't be brick as long as you sand the primer back off. Alot of people believe that they need to have primer for paint to stick, This is just not accurate. When you watch the TV programs where they strip all the paint and primer off a car to repaint it, it is normally to find out if and than how much body damage there is. Old paint is the best primer as long as its not pealing off or is cracked lacquer. As long as the balsa is sealed some way either with butyrate dope, nitrate dope, sanding sealer, or epoxy resin (my choice) that substrate should be a good base for painting. I refinish floors from time to time an the pin hole problem always shows up regardless unless the floor is sealed some way. If you've ever used a paint brush to apply clear onto bare wood you will see tiny air bubbles develope as the clear soaks into the wood. That's air being displaced in the pores of the wood by the clear and it looks horrible when it drys as alot of those tiny bubbles don't pop. Same thing happens with dope, sanding sealer, and resin until the wood pores are sealed hence the term sanding sealer. You apply the sealer, than sand, check for pin holes, if they exist then sand as much off the sealer off as possible, then reapply the sanding sealer, then sand and check for pin holes over and over until nothing soaks into the wood. Pain in the arse but until the wood is completely sealed those pesky pin holes will always show up. Spot putty is a stop gap step to save time from having to reapply the sanding sealer IMO A thin layer of epoxy laminating resin scaped off with an old credit card then heated up a little with a heat shrink gun will cause the resin to flow into the the pores and the bubbles to pop. If you mix the epoxy right it will be very sandable when cured. After the wood is sealed I use primer very liberally than let dry, then mist black primer on the gray so low spots will show up and then sand most of it back off as a means of checking for surface imperfections. I use a different color primer after sanding it back off, e.g. light gray then dark dray, each time as a layer check. If I'm satisfied that i've fixed the blemishes and that there's not a ton of primer left on it then I spray a very light coat of white or light colored finish paint as the base for all other colors. This at least gives me a base canvas all the same color to design a color scheme on. Bryan
Posted on: 9/4/2012 2:54 AM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216372
RE: Clean Up Your Building Area ?
WHHhhhaat! There's people who actually clean up their build areas? If thats the case then I guess mine is organized koas. I can't build anything without a lot of cussing due to the fact that my build table is covered with 16 differents projects, most of which have nothing to due with RC and 15 of which never get done. Hmmm. I thought everybody built this way. Go figure. Bryan
Posted on: 9/1/2012 2:37 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11213722
RE: Who's running all synthetic fuel ?
Ah oh! Here we go again. If your engine is getting all gunked up you are probably running it to lean or running it peaked out for maximum power so it's getting too hot.. Using Byrons/caster I had fifty runs on a 50FSR before a prop strike during a bad landing destroyed the ceramic bearings and in turn destroyed the engine. When I took apart the engine to see the extent of the damage there was no carbon buildup at all just broken creamic ball bearings that dented the piston and head. In my case I always run my engine a few clicks rich for longevity and to keep the piston and liner for carboning up e.g engine running cooler. Had I not been lured into running ceramic bearings that engine would have lasted for ever. As far as Castor or Synthetic, if you run a engine peaked or it runs lean regularly then it's going to carbon up. If this is the case with your engine you might want to put a little larger engine in your plane so that you don't have to run it so hard. Another point you'll have to decide on is although the claims that synthetic does lube better and is cleaner than castor there is tendency for synthetic to destroy the engine during a lean run as compared to castor due to castors higher flash point. If your engine is already carboning up you'd probably wish you ran castor due to this higher flash point if your engine is indeed running on the peaked or lean side (too hot). IMO Bryan
Posted on: 8/25/2012 4:41 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11205895
RE: Fans of the Classic Pattern Get-Together we need your help!!
[/quote] Bryan, Thank you for your support! The AMA is indeed working with the club. There have been several meetings including the district VP and the Govt. Affairs guy. They have been helpful and we are glad to have them on board. -Robert [/quote] Robert, That is great news! Makes me feel better about paying my yearly AMA membership fee. Glad to here it! The field I fly at has dry brush all around it. I have a few electric planes and have been thinking about going lipo on everthing. But now I will probably balance out the technology i use between both electric and nitro. I've never had a fire while using nitro flying or crashing for that matter nor have I yet had a lipo problem. I hope this get resolved to Condor fields benefit. Bryan
Posted on: 8/22/2012 11:55 AM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11202322
RE: Fans of the Classic Pattern Get-Together we need your help!!
Glad to help out! I reworded the petitions to reflect that I'm a concerned non-member who enoyed the facilities at Condor. I did receive an email from my AMA district VP and I was glad that the AMA is geting involved but the email refers all to the Condor site for the petitions. What I would like to know is this Is the AMA going to send representives to help out the Condor field? It seems to me that this is a specific reason why we pay for membership, isn't it? AMA Membership for represenatation in cases like what's happening at Condor as well as the other benefits of membership. I realize that this is the start of the campaign to get things rolling but has anyone heard anything from the AMA about how far they are going to go to support the Condors? Bryan
Posted on: 8/21/2012 6:37 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201522
RE: RCM plans service sucks
I ordered the super kaos and super kaos jr plans a few years ago and it took about 6 weeks.
Posted on: 8/14/2012 9:36 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11193971
RE: MAGIC 60
[quote]ORIGINAL: hrdflite p.s. also i have the custom header pipe for magic,,,,off topic ,how do you post pics here? [/quote] Rob, Nice offerings. I read some where that you will be offering other kits as well. When will those be available? To post pics you will need to use or click the reply or quote buttons in the upper right corner of a post. This will open up reply to message window with options to upload pics at the bottom of the text box.
Posted on: 7/24/2012 9:30 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11168178
RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
[quote]ORIGINAL: flywilly Wolfgang Matt did design a successor to the Arrow: it was called the Granat and was ~10% larger than the original Arrow, but appeared to be essentially the same planform. Since he flew the Arrow at the '83 WC and then moved on to the Joker for the new Aresti pattern, I don't know exactly when it was designed (sometime in the early '80s). My guess is that Wolfgang discovered it was hard to improve on an already outstanding design. [/quote] I'm a fan on Wolfgangs Granat and didn't realize until to today that it's a rear exhaust and looks more like a rear exhaust Atlas than the the Arrow that precieeded it. I wish there was more info on the Granat. I went to Wolfgangs site and it appears that Wolfgang had 3 F3A planes in 1984. First the Arrow, then the Granat, and finally the Joker. Here's a picture of the Granat where you can clearly see the more streamlined canopy as compared to the Arrow. Maybe he used the Atlas as the template for the Granat. To me the Granat looks more like an Atlas than an Arrow. It could be he decided to mold the Arrow canopy so that it looked like the Atlas. Who knows?
Posted on: 7/17/2012 11:32 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11159532
RE: Southern R/C bootlegger plan
[quote]ORIGINAL: dphill2 I have set that peice down on my wood built Compensator and it fit like a glove, As the Compensator Firewall on the drawing is 3.250 same as the bootlegger!!! So I don't see a problem !! Just use the dimensions you have for a stock Bootlegger and you will be fine.. The plans look great !!!!! Dave.... [/quote] [quote]ORIGINAL: kitfox1 The picture is of the canopy on top of a Compensator fuselage that is build in accordance to plans with exception of being about an inch and a quarter longer. I really do not see why the canopy will not fit a wider fuselage, but once it is dry I going to make a template with the measurements given in previous posts just to make sure that there is not going to be a problem/s. [/quote] kitfox1, Nice work on the Canopy's Since the canopy fits over yours and Daves Comp fuse I think your current version of the canopy will be just fine. At first the 7.5mm width that you measured kinda though me a curve ball on my plans. Better to claiify then to find out later that the plans would need adjustment. Keep up the good work and thanks for the effort. Bryan
Posted on: 7/10/2012 10:23 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11150944
RE: Southern R/C bootlegger plan
Paul, That's great! I'm only an 1/8in wider at the canopy front and 1/4 wider at the rear. I thnk my plans would be fine but will probably adjust them to your caliper measurements. Thank you. Here's where I'm at as far as the fuse plan. It's a very similar and i hope an easier build than the Compensator. I incorporated tabs on the formers to make the fuse easier to put together. I'm still working on the nose. I want to show a 3d breakdown of the nose block components so it's taking extra time to figure out the views to include. The fuse plan is pretty much finished and when I'm finished I will post it here for all to enjoy. I'm planning on a built up wing and stab as well. Here's the plan page and template page. Regards Bryan
Posted on: 7/10/2012 12:11 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11149289
RE: Southern R/C bootlegger plan
Here's the cleaned up Bootlegger plan.
Posted on: 7/10/2012 12:09 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11147142
RE: Southern R/C bootlegger plan
Here you go Phil (rabbid fly) and all. Bootlegger stab root and tip plus layout for foam cutter. Bryan
Posted on: 7/9/2012 10:15 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11149572
RE: Southern R/C bootlegger plan
Dave I looked as closely as possible at he pic of that canopy and it looked like it was cut from a fuse. I'm glad you could test fit it and that it fit over the Comp fuse as well as it did. I used the Compensator plan as a template for the BL plan I'm working on. kitfox1 Here are my measurements from the plans I am working on. canopy front 3 11/32in or 3.34375in canopy rear 3 3/8in or 3.375in The Bootlegger plan does not have a top view for an accurate measurement so my dimensions are an extrapolation based on the original cross sections of the Bootlegger plan and the Compensator fuse. This is the reason I was asking for the appropriate measurements from a Bootlegger fuse. These correspond to the Compensator fuse which was the template that I used to create the Bootlegger fuse. I hope they are reasonable close but do seem a little bit to wide. A quick measurement on a Boot fuse will be best. Bryan
Posted on: 7/9/2012 5:09 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11148378
RE: Southern R/C bootlegger plan
I'm waiting for the canopy's to become available. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11105780/tm.htm I also ran into a possible conflict with the stated dimensions of the canopy in post 81 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11144681 and the Bootlegger plans. Is is possible that the the dimensions kitfox1 posted could be skewed since the glass canopy appears to be cut from an old complete fuse e.g. the 7.5mm (2.95276 inch) dimension at the front of the canopy is way smaller than what is shown on the plan at the firewall which measures roughly 82mm (3.25 inches). It's more than a 1/4in (7 mm) difference. I used the former drawings for the Bootlegger plan as the basis for the plans I have been working on and if I made the fuse 7.5mm you would be hard pressed to use any available motor mounts as the engine compartment width would be too small. At least on the plans I'm working on. The Compensator is also much wider. So it appears the canopy being used for the molds might have closed up a bit. Could someone with one of dons or an orginal bootlegger fuse take fuse width measurements at these canopy locations - front middle back and post them here for comparison? Thanks in advance. Bryan.
Posted on: 7/7/2012 10:28 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11147158
RE: Bootlegger?
[quote]ORIGINAL: kitfox1 Hi y'all, The lenght of the canopy is 60.5 Centimeters. The width at the front is 7.5 Centimeters. The width at the center is 7.85 Centimeters. The width at the rear is 7.75 Centimeters. The width dimension are the outside dimension of the canopy and due to some degree of flexibility of the fiberglass/epoxy we will be able to make it a little bit larger or smaller. I should have the first canopy by Sunday. Does any body have a Gelcoat spray gun that would like to part with at a reasonable price. PM me if you have one. [/quote] Thanks for those measurements. Could you possibly give the height measurments for front, highest point and end? regards
Posted on: 7/6/2012 6:11 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11145902
RE: Bootlegger?
kitfox1, Ya- hoo on the Bootlegger canopy. Could I possibly get the base dimensions width and length or an outline with width and length? I would like to adjust the plan so it fits. I pretty much have the fuse plan finished. Here's the preliminary pdf plan and a jpg.
Posted on: 6/30/2012 7:17 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11138115
RE: Adhesive Question?
FWIW and I'm no expert, but I've been using System Three's T-88 for bonding. http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/T-88-c27.htm It is a structural adhesive not a laminating resin and it's mixed in a 1 to 1 ratio. I was looking for a good structual epoxy and went to the Aircraft Spruce and Specialty store and they recommeneded T-88 as the best. From theSystem Three Website - T-88 is a high-performance, non-brittle, two-part epoxy adhesive designed to give superior results under adverse conditions. The adhesive may be used without modifications in normally fitted joints, and will cure in any thickness without shrinkage. T-88 is clear amber and becomes virtually invisible when varnished. T-88 exhibits outstanding adhesion and permanence on a wide variety of materials, and is endorsed by leading designers, builders and organizations. There's also a great read on epoxy for those who will invest the time to actually read it. It's also from the System Three website and is called The Epoxy Book. See attached pdf. The most important thing to do when using epoxy on polyester is to remove any wax leftover from when the polyester cured and to sand the polyester area very well. This is a quote form page 4 of The Epoxy Book; "Caution must be observed when using epoxy resins along with polyester resins . Observe the general rule that epoxy resins may be applied over cured polyesters that have been dewaxed and well sanded but polyesters should never be used over cured epoxy resins. I will yeild to the experts at System Three before I'd listen to anyone here including myself, unless of course those claiming the epoxy information post credible links to verify what they claim. One of the best features of T-88 is you can heat it up to 150 degrees F to increase the set time to 30minutes without loosing structual integrity. I've been using this adhesive for the last 3 years and it works great on gluing wood to polyester laminates.
Posted on: 6/25/2012 10:52 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11132014
Bootlegger vs Deception
Here you go Paul. Overlaying the Bootlegger and Compensator fuses then overlaying the Bootlegger and Deception wings is very interesting. You could muse that the Bootlegger has it's roots from the Compensator fuse and the Deception Wings. Interesting. The bootlegger wing has an identicle shape to the Deception wing only a wee bit smaller. The control surfaces are different, but over all they are the same shape. What a great time they must of had back in the day. If you liked the way a fuse looked on one plane and the the way the wings looked or performed on another. Poof! new plane. Best part if it won contests you could then find kit's of it, for a reasonalbe price, at your LHS or a mail order store. You can't say this now as far as the current pattern planes. As far as the Fuse overlay the Red Fuse is the Deception and the Black Fuse is the Bootlegger.
Posted on: 6/22/2012 12:20 AM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11127393
RE: Bootlegger?
Here's a pic of a preliminary Compulegger. I just pasted the bootlegger upper half over the Compensator fuse. I also moved the nose gear back 5/8in to line up with the Bootlegger 3/8" firewall. The Boolegger plan shows the main gear 1 1/8 in back from CG and bent backwards at the wheel. Working on formers
Posted on: 6/21/2012 3:27 AM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11126223
RE: Bootlegger?
[quote]ORIGINAL: dphill2 Bryan, I don't know just how to answer that ?? If you would like one for your build, I'm sure we could make that happen. Dave... [/quote] Dave, Thank you, I would like one. Didn't mean to jump the gun about selling them it sounded like you were going to reproduce a few and I was just thinking if you were going to make a mold for them that it would be nice to have one instead of me having to reinvent the wheel so to speak. I also have been working on the mods required for a Compensator to Bootlegger conversion. Just cleaned up the Bootlegger plan that Paul generously shared and doing measurements. Hope to start some cad work tonight or at least get the tif's I made from the Comp & BL pdf into cad. I reviewed both plans and I think it will be an easy mod. The Compensator fuse is a simple box fuse with only five formers and nose ring. Anyway I'm working on it as well. Bryan
Posted on: 6/20/2012 10:19 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11126122
RE: Bootlegger?
[quote]ORIGINAL: dphill2 The plug for the top cap is being made and was all most ready the last time we spoke !! [/quote] Dave, Are these going to be available to purchase?
Posted on: 6/20/2012 1:20 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11125575
RE: Bootlegger?
[quote]ORIGINAL: drmike I feel i must respond to this thread. It is very interesting and brings back a lot of memories. I built and flew 5 different bootleggers. the one that you say belonged to tom street I built and sold to him.. I flew it at the nats the year before. I would sell him my last years models. i believe I sold him 2 maybe 3 bootleggers. they are a flyers airplane they were a little harder to handle than the compensator, faster, required more concentration to fly. they are a clean sheet design, the bootlegger is not a modified compensator and if you do the measurements you will find that to be true. The proportions are different. Steve Helms designed the airplane and flew it with great success. the fuse was polyester and heavy as hell. In its heydey, the Rossi was king and they were impossible to get. Only the privileged few got them. The rest of us flew OPS and they were very cantankerous and very inconsistent. Nothing lasted very long,, plugs, servos, you name it. the typical prop was a 10.5x7 modified and they turned about 15-16000 rpm..The closeup you see of the nose of Steve's plane has a variable pitch prop which Steve flew with some success. I flew the plane for 3 or 4 years. [/quote] drmike, Thanks for chiming in. It's always very cool when someone in the know posts about these type of Pattern planes in this case the Bootlegger and gives a report of its' flight characteristics. My understanding of the Bootlegger is from forum posts from others who flew them. I was lead to believe that the Bootlegger was based on the Compensator not that it's a modified Compensator. The overlays show that they are different. But they also seem related. I would not know as I'm just making comparison between the two. The Bootlegger is longer and has a taller tail moment above and below the thrust line as compared to the Compensator. The wing is also different. But the same can be said of the Dirty Birdy vd UFO comparison. Kinda hard to deny that the UFO had it's roots in the Dirty Birdy. You would know better than most as far as where the Bootlegger had it's origins. I like them both. I have a short kit from Eureka RC Airpanes but also thought it would be cool if I bashed it into a Bootlegger as I have more rear exhaust 61 engines than side exhaust. With todays lighter epoxy glass fuses thanks to Don, this would at least solve the heavyt problem and if it flew faster then I wonder what it can do now. Regards Bryan
Posted on: 6/16/2012 7:04 PM by Author "Roguedog"
in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11120678
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