RE: Are there constant load servos for flaps?
On my flaps, both LE and TE, I try to, as much as possible (especially on the LE flaps when not deployed ) to make the linkage at a straight line to the servo screw to horn to rod. This means that there is no "turning" load on the servo out put shaft. The geometry is kinda like standing on a bike pedal with all your weight when its at its lowest position. Your weight is entirely on the shaft. Zero torque pushing on anything. Also, note that digital servos are designed to apply full voltage ,lots of buzz, (unlike analog) at dead band (holding center), this is why they may over heat and burn out. Along with drain the batt faster. Steve
Posted on: 9/17/2012 2:35 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11231477

RE: Military colors only at warbird meets?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Ron101 I want to start this off by saying I have no hard feelings with my bud running this event or my club. But I was curious what others thought about this subjet. My local club is having a warbird meet. I have been planning on going all year. Last year I flew my trusty old Hanger 9 Miss America P-51 and all was fine. Well as the event got closer this year and the flyer came out, on the flyer it said military schemes only. So I sent an email to confirm and was told I couldn't fly the plane. I have nothing else ready or their planes I fly at a larger runway. So I was a bit shocked and disappointed. Knowing the history of this plane I know it served it's county well from 1944-1958 until it was sold as surplus and later would claim several world speed records. http://www.missa-racing.com/ To me it paints a really gray area and excludes guys from flying for no real reason. Is a yellow AT texan trainer a warbird? a piper cub with stars and bars? How about a Blue Angles F-18? or Red Arrows Hawk (which I have) any trainer schemes that didn't serve in war? How about a Bear Cat the never saw any war time service? I feel the hobby is getting so small and warbirds have lost much appeal to 3D flying and park flyers.... if it's a P-51, Texan, F-18...... let everyone join in and have fun no matter what paint is on it because at one time it was a warbird. Make your event a bigger event instead of putting more limits on who can fly. As it is the term Warbird event limits many already... Is a Veteran that served his county well but has changed his cloths and removed his uniform no longer worth being honored? So that's how I feel on the matter and wonder what you guys thought. Like I said I have zero hard feelings with my bud or the club, just disappointed and wondered what other modelers felt on the subject. Thanks for sharing Ron [/quote] In this case. I think for me in your second paragraph, second line, "on the flier it said military SCHEMES (not yelling ) only" kinda gives a theme for the event. I can see the difference in what specifically the event was doing. Function, purpose in a certain time in history for a certain purpose. You can suggest a Reno scheme (function, purpose, ect) event as well, if they are friends, and enough of you guys interested in that, even more fun. Enjoy Steve
Posted on: 9/17/2012 12:15 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11231339

RE: Large volume hotbox
Just remember to use it outside. Fire hazard and vapors from cure not good. Steve
Posted on: 9/14/2012 8:29 AM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11228337

RE: How to rebuild a RAM 750..cause I dont know..lol
I admire the DIY thinking........ i just jump in. A few years back I bought a bench run Wren 54MKII turbine assembled kit motor. When I tried to start it, the motor blew flames out the back and never started. I had never flown a turbine, just bench started my Golden West FD3/67 with never any problems. Yet the Wren, a newer generation turbine at that time failed to start. I had the assembly manual and I'm cheap. Let's be polite and say thrifty. So I took it totally apart. The engine (looks almost exactly like yours) is so precisely machined and the manual so well written that it came apart and went back together so easy. The problem the motor had was in the section that requires silicone, there was so much applied that the silicone blocked the air transfer ( name?) holes, preventing the required amount of air to pass through the combustion chamber. Centering the compressor wheel in the front intake was done with paper! Good luck It is manual start and is kinda fun to start and very reliable. It's good to learn. Steve
Posted on: 9/8/2012 7:19 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11222292

RE: Fuselage Nose Repair Ideas
If your going to attach the nose to the fuse, would it be feasible to take make a mold off the nose section once on the fuse? Just "part" or put a 'splitter" board at a location that would be best for your application. That's what we do with sections we want parts of. Steve
Posted on: 9/6/2012 6:13 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220122

RE: Storage - hanging jets from the ceiling
I use Romex wrapped around the fuse/wings and hooks. The reasoning behind using Romex is it does the job very cost effectively and it is stiff. The stiffness allows you to guide the wires onto the hooks while you alone support the fuse with both hands. Sheathing cut back at hook location, or on some just 1 wire around fuse/wing. All hang inverted, (dust accumulates only on bottom) gear retracted. Takes a bit of practice, but not that big a challenge. Oh, and doesn't look as pretty as straps. But I have around 12 models hanging off the ceiling. Do the math first, not after. Steve
Posted on: 9/6/2012 8:56 AM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11219513

RE: Fuselage Nose Repair Ideas
That is a good simple way. I would make a sleeve that I have glued to the fuse first and extends out a bit, then glue nose to it. Securing the nose "joint" with tape wrapped around the fuse/nosewhile it cures. If your fuse is polyester (smells like a boat factory) use polyester, if epoxy, either resin will work. This is why I like removable nose sections. Steve
Posted on: 9/6/2012 8:42 AM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11219500

RE: Proper underbelly color of Bf-109s
One of my all time favorite airframes the 109. Unfortunately, my Dad was "slave" labor at the Daimler-Benz engine factory. During a near by bombing run by US forces, an engine fell on his leg. Holding up the production line, the Germans were going to quickly drag him off the line without consideration for his leg. A group of polish "slave" labor line workers lifted the engine off his leg. He kept his leg and recovered to where none could tell. Never complained about it. The recently acquired BF 109E3/7 at Chino, planes of fame. Recovered from a lake. After all the time that has passed, a bit of the colors are still there. Due for a restoration. I would preserve the history as it was found, and just make a replica. They also have the DB engine. I have way more pics but can't locate them Steve
Posted on: 8/24/2012 4:07 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11204845

RE: thank God for the Pa state police !
Your luck your not in California. The thieves would have hired a lawyer ( or whatever you want to call them) and sued you for lost profit from the sale of your stolen models, along with all the work it took to break into your van. PA, help us out! Steve
Posted on: 8/21/2012 3:28 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201313

RE: Hyundai vs. Mercedes C230
0-60 in 7 seconds. Wake me up when this is over. Steve
Posted on: 8/21/2012 8:20 AM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "Off Topic Forum - Cars, Trucks, Buggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200856

RE: lost my horizontal stab
Was the balsa a light weight balsa. Big difference from the hard wood balsa. I have used balsa slab h-stabs in the past under heavy loads, and I always use a harder balsa for that application. Never failed. Steve
Posted on: 8/19/2012 2:55 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198933

RE: Rom-Air retracts parts help
I have Rhom airs. I have gone to Nitroplanes and replaced all my air stuff with the 120 size electrics. Very well priced. Less that the price of a Robart air valve. I kept the rotating one till I get a few electric rotators. Coming soon. Steve
Posted on: 8/15/2012 5:36 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195008

RE: composite Fuse Joint
Of course. PM or here. Your choice. I use West Systems, it a Marine resin, ( UV qualities) but I have a few pumps for it and it's a local pick up for me. There are others that may cost less that also work just as well or better. Wyo has mentioned a few on other posts. I may try those as well later. Steve
Posted on: 8/15/2012 5:30 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11194997

RE: Llow time turbines for sale - Beware
Is the potential for rust caused by fuel left in the system or is it caused by climates with humidity/moisture in the air. Or both, none?? Or corrosives in the oils. One of the many reasons why I like the Wren 54 kit motor, you actually learn to assemble it. Which means you can dis-assemble it. Steve
Posted on: 8/15/2012 5:21 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11194985

RE: composite Fuse Joint
Hi. "Oilcan". When one grabs the fuse for instance, and it is squeezed a bit inward and back out.... not really a problem at certain locations on the fuse, but some modelers use this as a gauge on fuse integrity. Looking for reliability and durability. Over engineering just adds weight. Nothing will survive a good crash. "Grab area". Area of the model you will grab. For us, it's the area around the back of the cowling that we grab when starting a glow engine. But still forward of the CG. The wing shown is a 54" span Corsair wing (Jemco). The pic is around 15 years and many models were pulled. The glass used is plain weave "E" (electrical) glass. "E" glass conforms easier in a hand lay up with no vac forming than "S"(structural) glass and is enough for what we did with it. The entire wood frame is glued using epoxy and cabosil as a paste. An economical very good bond. USE A RESPIRATOR AND RUBBER GLOVES WHEN CUTTING COMPOSITES AND USING CABOSIL (FLUFFED SILICA). AVOID VAPORS WHILE EPOXY CURES. One of the ways to get the correct combination for what you need on your wing configuration is to experiment. Long flat span on your wing may need support, but not every sq. mm. The glass used at first was 5.75oz with two layers, and removing residual epoxy. Later down to one 5.74oz and a 4oz. The entire composite model ready for flight (dry), with rotating retracts, was around 7.75lbs and was very forgiving at landings. The original wood/foam Corsair was 8lbs. Steve
Posted on: 8/15/2012 8:43 AM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11194314

RE: composite Fuse Joint
Wyos' methods are are a bit more advanced than the methods we use for our application.. Both methods can and do work. Our concept is essentially a glass skin of a certain weight, and layers, along with balsa/plywood framing, spars, ribs, plates, and bulkheads. All ours are scale warbirds and now scale jets. For our own use at this point. Models range form 40" span Me 163 Komet to a 69" span Spitfire Mk. The glass weights depend on the parts configuration and role it will play in the air frame. Also taking into consideration is CG during lay up and "grab areas". All the while taking finished weight into consideration We, for our application do not vac bag or sandwich wood/foam between the glass. Although the glass tends to oilcan, none of our all composite models have ever failed in the flight since 1991. Our wings have one big advantage over balsa/foam sandwich, glass skins do not dent. They just rebound if impacted while in transport, stored, ect... Our ailerons are razor cut from the wing, then a balsa radius cap is glued to the aileron, then robart pin hinged to an internal balsa support. If done right, the aileron to wing joint looks scale and rotates scale. However, the kevlar hinge eliminates the headache of all that. Our jets will go that route. Foam in the wing will just add weight. The framing is the trick in our configuration. Composite ribs and such. Cool, but you may burn out making small parts. I have. Making Composite prop blades, a good investment. Steve
Posted on: 8/14/2012 7:00 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11193768

RE: WHY GO EDF IF YOU HAVE TURBINES?
Hi All Options, choices that's why. And money, lack of or abundance, which brings additional/lesser options. But still options I have and enjoy both. I have a couple of turbines and a bunch of edfs. My turbines ( Wren 54MKIII and GD FD3/67, latest version although still old gen )are manual start. Not much support equipment. Very basic and simple to operate, and simple tear down for repairs/maintenance. On my edf's, at this point I would stick to 90mm max. I have a BVM F-16 I converted to dynemax and it's cool but falls a bit short ( a lot really ) of actual gas turbine flight. Charge times are a joke on 12s. But less stress and cheaper, (unless turbine bought right). Until the chinese put out a turbine or Kingtech type (a proven turbine at a good $) The turbine to me is the ultimate in simulating jet flight by using an actual micro gas turbine that operates on the same principle as the full size. That to me is the draw. The engineering. They are more of a thrill. The two propulsion systems really cannot be compared in that regard. I could do without the smell of JetA though. Just run both edf and turbine on a test stand and watch. It's like flying a BF 109 with a brushless motor oppose to a micro DB 605 V-12. Which also exists, but $$$$. A drawback, I also noticed model airfields are limiting turbines. Steve
Posted on: 8/14/2012 7:53 AM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11192967

RE: Fresno 2012 Jet Rally, no turbines?
WOW! It's not that big a deal. Fly with your buddies in the desert when it cools down. It's the good company mostly, not the event. Steve
Posted on: 8/13/2012 5:50 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11192302

RE: composite Fuse Joint
This pic is one of the models. And a 54" span corsair wing. Steve
Posted on: 8/13/2012 1:25 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11191942

RE: composite Fuse Joint
As pointed out by wyo, the bog at the TE will work and has worked for our models since 1991 without failure. As it is squeezed buy the molds, the bonding material will move forward in the wing and cover more area. On our LE seam, we choose to use the Joggle gasket. Although on some of our early wing molds without the wing tip in place, we used a seam tape on the joint. Ours are all warbirds with retracts and a hard landing can split the LE without additional support. Steve
Posted on: 8/13/2012 1:24 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11191940

RE: Question to Jet Event Contest Directors
I think one the big difference in the case of an electric turbo prop Tucano and a micro gas turbine powered airframe is the simulation of a turbine in the Tucano powered by an electric motor and propelled by porp blades. While the gas turbine powered jet is actually propelled by the thrust of a micro gas turbine. On the edf jets. I have yet to formulate a thought. Steve
Posted on: 8/11/2012 1:50 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189577

RE: BVM F-16
A few pics of my BVM F-16 Dynemax/scorpion 630, 12s (6sX2) 5300, 45-65c. AUW 16lbs and forgiving on landings if CG in correct location. Even on dead stick. This air frame is almost the same size as my yellow F-16C (green version). The parts are almost interchangeable with very minor work.. After a some flying time on this configuration, it is going my Wren 54MKIII 14lbs thrust/aprox 7 oz per minute. I have seen a Yellow F-16 fly on a GoldenWest FD3/67 ( also have one) very well. It only produced 8lbs of thrust, has a greater weight and used more fuel.. Steve
Posted on: 8/3/2012 1:25 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11179891

RE: What a save !!! (dead stick landing)
Slope soaring experience also helps preserve the model in dead stick landings/ditching. Steve
Posted on: 7/30/2012 8:41 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11175419

RE: RANT: The
I noticed that the "law" has been quoted here. So, who will put up the retainer $$ to force China provide parts until they are not needed. They don't even make safe baby products for God's sake (insert name of your God whoever/whatever it may be). They steal designs form Boeing, ect. Boeing doesn't (can't) fight them. The solution for our little toys are not outside of our own workshops. They are not cars or guns, ect, they are much much simpler. Or as mentioned before, since they are so well priced from what we used to pay, buy a spare. On some, I do. Dependency/need is a weakness. Independence is power. Anyway, good luck with this . Steve
Posted on: 7/27/2012 7:13 AM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11171119

RE: RANT: The
Business is business. Anyone who forgets/neglects that will not make the proper "adjustments" Fabricate the parts you figure will get damaged or fail. I have copied many parts from composite parts cowls, spinners /vac form canopies, tires, wheels, headers, props,......ect except engine and motors for some of my arfs and original builds. Nothing really can be obsolete when one can fabricate/build. A handy money saving skill. Many online tutorials on how to do pretty much anything these days. Steve
Posted on: 7/26/2012 8:37 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11170784

RE: Cool new 3 blade prop on the market
Are replacement blades sold individually? If yes, how much? Steve
Posted on: 7/26/2012 9:24 AM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11170037

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
Here's one.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSreNf8x7H8 Steve
Posted on: 7/22/2012 12:11 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11164600

RE: CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
messer if you go on youtube and search a few CMP 109s, you will see many of them flying with the 160. At that point you can contact the flyer for prop specs. Steve
Posted on: 7/22/2012 12:07 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11164593

RE: Would you rebuild it or lay it to rest
Sorry for your loss. I would read and re-read your radios owner manual. Pages 7-12 have warnings and specs that could have prevented this. Steve
Posted on: 7/17/2012 7:48 AM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11158557

RE: What causes gear doors and thin parts to warp weeks after they are dry?
As noted before. This issue is common with most inferior epoxy and polyester resins. I have models (old) made out of West System resin and none of the surfaces warp or degrade. I have a few Chinese composite fuses, most of which go soft in the sun (gummy bear soft), hatches and covers shink and warp. Not unheard of with the resins used out there. Copy the part with epoxy. Or... Tape down surface and gently use a heat gun. Practice on scrap first. Steve
Posted on: 7/15/2012 8:32 PM by Author "SCALECRAFT" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11156768