RE: Please delete post
Up a little late Johnny?
Posted on: 10/29/2009 6:51 AM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9211657

RE: Wingspan 1/9 scale B-17 (138
Hey Kram, How did you set up the fuel tanks on the inboard nacelles. There is so little room there with the gear and everything. I'm guessing you are running 4-stroke engines, but not sure. What size? Hope you have time to get more pictures. Scot
Posted on: 10/27/2009 6:40 PM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9207097

RE: Wingspan 1/9 scale B-17 (138")
Kram, What is the design you have come up with for the cowls? It looks like they are cut down in length and partially fit to the fuselae. Do they split on a panel line? Workmanship looks impeccable! Thanks for sharing and looking forward to following. Scot
Posted on: 10/21/2009 7:17 PM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9191750

RE: WACO YMF
Well, a lot of smart arse R/C'ers anyway...(who know how to use internet search engines) Did you guys notice the 33% AMR kit for sale here for $1400, new in box!! Tempting I have to admit!! It's the $5K+ engine that gives hesitation though. I did notice the amount of down trim you were carrying, so have to see where you end up now.
Posted on: 7/31/2009 5:26 PM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8979641

RE: WACO YMF
Mitch, One explanation is: The origin of pound is in the Latin word libra, which could mean both balance scales (hence the symbol for the astrological sign Libra, which was named after a constellation that was thought to resemble scales) and also a pound weight, for which the full expression was libra pondo, the second word being the origin of our pound. Did you have any flight caracterisitcs that hinted that a CG change is necessary? S
Posted on: 7/31/2009 10:56 AM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8978726

RE: Top Flite Giant P47 arf IS coming
Swift, I am flying the TF GS P-47 on a Fuji 50 at 24 1/2 pounds and it is just adequate for power. Not overpowered, not drastically under powered. So, my concern is if the 43 would be enough ponies. Just a data point for you. I think the 62cc engines are over-powering the airframe, but it sure would make it easy to drive through really big loops. None the less, this is a great airframe and a lot of fun to fly. Scot
Posted on: 7/19/2009 5:56 AM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8945488

RE: Top Flite Giant P47 arf IS coming
I hope the pictures on the Tower website are pre-production ones. They have the squadron letters incorrect. Tarheel Hal is IA-N, not the Ai-N they have!! OOPS, somebody not only can't "spell", squadron letters with a lower case in the middle is a first as well. None the less, the kit is a great flying airframe and I hope the ARF version is as well.
Posted on: 7/16/2009 7:58 AM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8937718

RE: KMP Hurricane - maiden
jmohn, Is the pitch change from the gear speed sensitive? If it is not, then I think I would consider programming in some elevator mix with the gear switch rather than trying to figure out how to turn the strut covers during retraction. Just an idea. Glad to hear the Hurricane flies so well, it is on the list for "someday..." so many airplanes, so little time. Best fo luck, Scot
Posted on: 6/18/2009 12:03 PM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8862042

RE: Z Corsair, FINALLY
Looks awesome!! I was pretty sure Daniel was going to graduate from college before this one flew... Pilot fits well. I think you need some work on your math though, Daniel is 7 this year and he was just born the year you picked her up.... The best I can get is 5 to 5 1/2 years. Let's see if we can pick up the pace a bit on the P-38! Super job on the doors, that was not easy to pick up and complete. Looking forward to Warbirds over PA. Scot
Posted on: 6/2/2009 2:44 PM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8819980

RE: top flite giant scale P-47 build completion
Denny, A few ideas for tailwheel doors. You can temporarily fill the tailwheel opening with blue foam, sand to the contour of the fuselage and lay up fiberglass over the top after covering the area with plastic wrap. I have also laminated up layers of .010 thick flightskin that are "clamped" to the fuselae with an Ace-bandage. The Fliteskin is remarkebly rigid when laminated up. If you don't want to wait for the epoxy to cure, you can laminate it with CA, but you have to make sure you have the right number of fingers pressing in the right places and a fan running to keep the CA fumes out of your eyes. Epoxy is the smarter choice. With laminating Flite-skin you may be able to get away without filling in the opening with blue foam for shape. If you do use foam, cut a piece big enough that it is resting against the internals so it does not get pushed into the hole. Your P-47 looks great and it is a superb flying aircraft. Looks like you have the right combination of hardware to make a great looking and flying airplane. best of luck, Scot
Posted on: 6/1/2009 8:53 AM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8815867

RE: G-Pete's Ziroli P-38J Lightning build
Pete, Will the flap leading edge be rounded to make as much of an airfoil shape as possible? Full-scale Fowler flaps rely on the leakage flow from the bottom of the wing to the top of the flap to help keep the flow attached on the top of the flap. Not sure what effect a square or flat leading edge would have. I like the mechanism. It seems more sound and less slop than the Model Airplane News design. Keep up the great work! Thanks for sharing, Scot
Posted on: 3/16/2009 7:40 PM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8585024

RE: QUESTION ON HANGAR 9 B-25 SCALE?
By wingspan, it is about 1/10 scale. The wingspan of a fullscale B-25 is 67' 7", The model is 80.7". 67*12+7 = 811. 811/80.7 = 10.04. Call it 1/10 scale. Not sure if there are many fighters around to match scale very closely, but you can follow the same logic to compare. Let us know how it flies and have a blast. Scot
Posted on: 3/14/2009 1:30 PM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8577253

RE: P-38 Ziroli designed, built and aluminum plated by Metal-morphous
Most people do not like to sheet, plank or build wing skins with CA because it is more difficult to sand without ending up with a ridge at the glue join. I find the key to sanding it successully is to use sharp sandpaper and very little pressure. 3M automotive paper is my choice and I sand with next to no pressure on the sanding bar. So, it's not a strength issue, it is a workability issue. Scot
Posted on: 3/11/2009 12:37 PM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8566828

RE: WACO YMF
The good news is that Mitch picked up another few inches last night...... of snow, gentlemen. Actually it was much more like cement than snow! If he wasn't sick of it before, he surely is now. The pictures do not do his Waco justice, but it is hard to get more than half the airplane in a good detail shot at 33% scale. Lots of great details and a very classy color scheme. Scot
Posted on: 3/10/2009 9:49 AM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8562608

RE: G-Pete's Ziroli P-38J Lightning build
Pete, Any news on working with the channel Xpander and the flaps? I'll be in the same predicament with a B-17 and 4 flap servos if the Xpander doesn't work. Awesome build! Scot
Posted on: 3/3/2009 4:09 PM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8540140

RE: Ziroli P-51D wing???
Phil, have you sheeted the wing already? Are you planning on using the same hinging that Nick shows on the plans? Where are you in the build? There are a couple of things you can do to change the hinging and make it more scale if you haven't sheeted the wing yet. If you have, then the gap between the 1/8 x 1/4 on the top of the wing is about a 1/4" and sized to have the aileron and flap separate between them, then trimmed back to the edge of the 1/8 x 1/4 and faced with 1/8" sheet. For cutting the ribs, I use a razor saw that has been removed from the spine/handle shaft. After the surface is removed, it can be cleaned up to the design on the plans.
Posted on: 3/1/2009 8:01 PM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8533284

RE: TF GS P47 Build - yeah another bloody one!!
Peter, I'm not trying to sell the other stuff to you, just trying to save you loads of disappointment and 30 bucks, but the McMaster Carr version of the stick-on aluminum won't bend around compund curves very well. It is not annealed like the hobby version. Now, could you use it for 90% of the airframe and make up the corners with the hobby versions available? I sure bet so. Depends on how deep you want to get into the details. There are plenty of airplanes done with HVAC aluminum duct tape to a good degree. There are plenty of threads of examples of that right here on RCU. Just didn't want anybody to go buy a pile of it and start on the bottom of the rudder and think it is impossible.... Now, back to riveting for you, young man!!
Posted on: 2/5/2009 1:49 PM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8441743

RE: G-Pete's Ziroli P-38J Lightning build
thisoldman, When I built the Z-P-38, I used the Model Airplane News design for fowler flaps with the telescoping carbon tubes and dual pushrods for the mechanism. It uses a large servo arm of around 2" in length to get the amount of travel necessary for the fowler action with that design. It also required that the servos be placed vertically in the wing panels. I wanted to use JR 7005 low profile servos, but they were not available when I was building and have since been discontinued. The good news is that Hitech makes a low profile servo that fit in the panels (HS-77BB) (an exact duplicate to the JR case in fact) http://www.hitecrcd.com/servos/show?name=HS-77BB With one on each flap, they have enough torque. This system is different than what G-pete has designed for his, but it has been used successfully in the past. Hope that helps.
Posted on: 2/4/2009 9:19 AM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8437140

RE: G-Pete's Ziroli P-38J Lightning build
G-Pete, Do you think a stringer between the forward ends of the flap arms that have the pins sliding in the tracks will help with kepeing the pins in the slots and with any binding that could occur if the flap gets cocked sideways at all. Tough to protect against any twisting that the flap may do with aerodynamic forces, that too could cause some binding. What materials are you thinking of for the flap arms, tracks and pins? Are you thinking actuation will be about the same as the Model Airplane News plans, less the second control linkage to the flap itself? I wonder if anybody has pictures or sketches of the full scale P-38 flap hinges and mechanism? Are you using the same degree of flap for amount of extension as the full scale?
Posted on: 12/11/2008 8:15 AM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8234680

RE: P-38 Ziroli designed, built and aluminum plated by Metal-morphous
I don't fully understand what Greg means by "air pressure on the extended flap sections".. It seems that he means aerodynamic load on the flap and the servo was not able to move the flap, so it stalled the servo and then the battery was drained because of that. It makes sense to isolate a battery for the flap servos, but what do you think is the best solution? Is there a change in the flap system that could help so the servo(s) can not be stalled? The Model Airplane News plan design for Fowler flaps uses very long servo arms to get the high degree of axial travel needed. This means the linear force available to the flaps is low, so a high torque servo is necessary to get the most force possible. Short of going to a mechanism that does not use long servo arms, I guess the best we can do is crank up the servo torque to the maxium of what sevo fits and give them an isolated battey supply. So the initial idea of Greg losing his P-38 because of high drag and the airplane stalling is busted, but the fact that it had Fowler flaps and the actuation of them caused a loss of radio due to batteryt drain is correct. So, something helpful can be gained anyway. Now, to figure out the best way to actuate the Fowler flaps....... I wonder if the robot guys have small, light, high force, proportional linear actuators? That is what we are looking for, short of going to the air cylinder actuation that has been tried with mixed success and piles of maintenance.
Posted on: 12/5/2008 8:32 AM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8214931

RE: P-38 Ziroli designed, built and aluminum plated by Metal-morphous
Should we mail you a new pair of underwear, or are you working commando now?......... I have rolled clay or play-doh into an 1/8" diameter "snake" and wrapped that around the mounting holes to act as a dam to seal out the epoxy slurry. Glad you could get them apart, it is no fun to go digging and prying and listen to all the cracks and pops while separating the parts. Scot
Posted on: 11/14/2008 10:00 AM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8146448

RE: P-38 Ziroli designed, built and aluminum plated by Metal-morphous
Your guns look great. I was thinking that you could find some brass tubing with the OD equal to the ID of the coolin gtubes and the ID equal to the OD of the gun barrel. A short slice will make a nice spacer. Not sure if the aluminum tubes are sized to be compatible with the brass tubes.... When I put JSZ'z P-38 together I designed in a retention system for the nose that will use sheet metal screws inside the guns to hold the nose on. A long allen wrench down the tube of the 2 outer most guns can engage the heads of screws encapsulated in the guns that are permanently mounted to the nose section. We'll see if JZ can get it to work, but I'm pretty sure it can be done. Again, nice job on the guns, I like your size choices. Scot
Posted on: 8/15/2008 1:27 PM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7849014

RE: P-38 Ziroli designed, built and aluminum plated by Metal-morphous
Are there any spacers between the barrel and the cooling tube? They look great and do you know what exactly the turnbuckle came from, or where you got it initially? It's a great tool for drilling the cooling tubes. Nicely done. You do realize that you could make an extra set of each of these detai litems and JSZ would be more than happy to buy them from you.......... Scot
Posted on: 8/14/2008 12:16 PM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7845106

RE: P-38 Ziroli designed, built and aluminum plated by Metal-morphous
The Corsair build is neat because you can make it very complicated or you can keep it simple like a sport aircraft build. The inverted gull of the center section is not a big deal to frame up, especially with a kit cut by a kit cutter who can keep the slots and notches sized correctly and straight. Sheeting the inverted gull is not a big deal, most of the gull part is sheeted with grain at 45 degrees and this stops the vast majority of any tin-canning of the sheeting. If you head toward landing gear doors, it gets more complicated and if you try for a full scale retractable tailwheel and arrestor hook, then things get delicate and require more precision. Past that though, it is a straight forward build. The P-38 isn't really more difficult, it is just more to build. The 3-piece wing seems to take more time and with 2 fuselage booms, you are building 2 fuselages it seems. Alignment is the whole thing with the P-38 and the long skinny gear doors are more work to get to close nicely. Though I have to admit, I left that work for JSZ on the P-38. Also, in the P-38 you have to be a little more careful with the wing to boom fit since it is going to get shaken a lot with it being a twin. The P-38 is definitely more work, but not really harder. Scot
Posted on: 8/13/2008 8:32 AM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7840627

RE: P-38 Ziroli designed, built and aluminum plated by Metal-morphous
The only thing that made me snicker was the back to back build parts.......... The Corsair is in danger of dry rot, but I don't think the P-38 will fall victim to the same schedule since there was a house move, and a mid life crisis motorcycle in the middle of the Corsair build. I was begining to wonder if my son, who was born a few weeks before the Corsair was delivered, was going to solo before the Corsair flew. Now he'll probably just maiden the Corsair for JSZ, because somebody has got to do it!! Scot
Posted on: 8/12/2008 8:31 AM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7836584

RE: Wingspan Models 1/6 B-17 or BUST!!!!
Misterv, I hope you can fix the pictures not showing up. Really looking forward to seeing them. Scot
Posted on: 8/7/2008 8:36 AM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7819033

RE: P-38 Ziroli designed, built and aluminum plated by Metal-morphous
Ron, Not sure if you are aware of this, but the ailerons on a P-38 are actually hinged at the top skin of the airfoil. If you are interested in hanging on for a week, I can get you many full-scale detailed pictures when I am at Oshkosh later this week. They were hinged with what pretty much looks like a piano hinge the entire length of the aileron at the leading edge, top surface of the aileron. It makes for some neat geometry. If you look in my P-38 photos on Photobucket, you can see that I hinged the aileorns with flat Dubro giant scale hinges while replacing the brass cotter pins with piano wire. Those hinges are right in line with the top wing sheeting. The aileron bottom gets a concave recess to clear the hinge line shroud when the aileron is deflected down. Forward of the concave recess the aileron leading edge is convex and rounded to maintain the gap with the shroud as the aileron is deflected up. The P-38, both full scale and Nick's specs call for differential aileron throw, so the aileron moves much further up than it does down. I believe Nick found this to be pertinent when he flew his prototype as well. It is listed on his plans in the control throws as well. Differential aileron throw helps eliminate adverse yaw, which is most prevelent in models(and fullscale airplanes) with smaller volume in the vertical stabilizer( i.e fin & rudder). The P-38 falls into this category. Your friends aileron control system is a good one and has been used very successfully many times, but the geometry of it won't work out for top hinged ailerons. For the top hinged ailerons to work well, it is important that the airfoil surface along the hinge line be as straight as possible. Any curvature in the airfoil thickness taper will screw up the top hinge line, especially if you blindly install the hinge slots an equal distance down from the top skin. Just details, let me know if you want some details of the full scale. I'm leaving Thursday night. Scot
Posted on: 7/29/2008 10:57 AM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7784238

RE: P-38 Ziroli designed, built and aluminum plated by Metal-morphous
There are a good number of points in the build where all you have to use for alignment is your eye. The stabilizer extensions outside of the fins are a good example. The parts are to small, fragile, intricate to do anything fancy with incidence meters, etc. So you just end up using your eye. Take many looks and try to get the parts to sit in the desired alignment with no help from external fingers, then you can tack glue with thin CA and go back to reinforce with other glues. I found that if I had to hold anything in alignment and then tried to glue it there it would never be in the same place nor the place I wanted it to be. Check the alignment repeatedly and then glue. Good thing the lines of the P-38 are so beautiful, otherwise the motivation to go through all of this would be tough to muster.
Posted on: 7/22/2008 9:05 AM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7758606

RE: P-38 Ziroli designed, built and aluminum plated by Metal-morphous
Ron, The Ziroli P-38 is a complex build and it would take a very diligent builder to list out all of the parts that apply to the fiberglass boom build vs. the full wood build.... I'm sure you will find extra parts and maybe even some missed parts in the kit. Nothing serious, but with the high number of parts, it is almost guaranteed that something is going to go awry. Looks good, keep sanding.......... Your getting close to setting the boom alignment, take your time and measure everything about 8 times, it is the most important part of the build for a good flying P-38. Scot
Posted on: 7/13/2008 8:43 PM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7727250

RE: P-38 Ziroli designed, built and aluminum plated by Metal-morphous
Ron, If my memory isn't failing me, I think it was not B-14's that got installed, but 1/8" plywood root ribs that had notches in them for the stab mounting tabs and they were glued to the outside of the fiberglass booms. Same idea though. To install the B-14's you have, you would have to reshape them to fit better on the inside of the fuse. Check the top view of the fiberglass fuse plans, I think that is where you find the root ribs I am talking about. I no longer have the plans, as they were delivered with the airframe to its owner. The 1/8" ply root ribs were sized to fit "inside" the stab sheeting, so they do not show up in any of my pictures of the stab fit to the booms. It is best to fit them to the outside of the booms for alignment of the stab incedence after the booms are set up parallel to each other and fit to the wing. It also makes the alignment of the dowel spars for the stab tips easier. I worked the alignment of the ribs and dowels first, then knowing where the root ribs go, I was able to cut the openings for the stab mounting plates through the fuse. This made a nice fit of the stab mounting tabs to the booms and with the root ribs glued on with Hysol, it all was a very solid assembly in the end. Scot
Posted on: 7/9/2008 11:49 AM by Author "Scotsman" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7711238