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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Mitch, Could it be fuel line or a tank problem? Or are you setting it up on a new airframe with new tank, etc. Ignition able to keep up with the higher RPM? I'm sure it is baffling as you probably have moved over a working configuration to a new airframe.
Posted on: 5/24/2012 9:20 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093093
RE: Hangar 9 30cc P-47 Build Thread
John, I think the "tie-downs" on the tips of the stabilizer may be brackets for radio antenna wires from the fuse, not actual tie-downs to hold the aircraft. But that is a guess. Great job on making a fun airplane look very nice. Scot
Posted on: 3/29/2012 8:07 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11019797
RE: TF GS P47 Build - yeah another bloody one!!
Pete, I'm guessing that the white servo arm bit on the inner gear door is simply a stop for the belcrank so the doors are not opened to far and it should give a little stiffer end point so they don't flap in the breeze as much. Great to see yours coming onto final. Scot
Posted on: 10/5/2011 4:26 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10749431
RE: Pushrod Question
The Rod-Chuck system uses a #5-40 die as a first cut and then a second cut with a #4-40 die so it removes less metal on each cut prolonging the life of the die and lessening the tendancy to twist off the rod being threaded. Even though they do it that way, I don't think it would cut stainless anyway, but it is a nice trick to lessen the work of each cut.
Posted on: 8/17/2011 2:56 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10674112
RE: Pushrod Question
Here is another source of information and supplies for threading welding rod. Definitely the best way to make up just the right length control rods... http://www.rodchuck.com
Posted on: 8/15/2011 2:35 PM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10672229
RE: looking for quality 1/4 scale USAAF fighter pilot
Contact these guys: http://www.properlittlepeople.com/index.html theirwebsite is a work in progress, but their pilots are really neat, especially if you want "you" in the cockpit. Scot
Posted on: 5/25/2011 3:53 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10539382
RE: *** Top Gun 2011, RCU Onsite Coverage ***
Does anybody have the winners past first place and/or the special awards, i.e. Critics Choice, Best ______, etc.? Surprised Graham Mears and Dino didn't top the Team Scale. Scot
Posted on: 5/2/2011 4:53 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10496330
RE: Ziroli P47
Looks like you blew the fuselage right off the Stuka!! Great work! The finish looks great! Paint or metal? I'm thinking you were flying high cover on the first sortie! I'm sure you love the way it flies with 2 big hits, a Ziroli design and a P-47. I always enjoy big jugs!!! Scot
Posted on: 4/22/2011 9:07 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10478374
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
If Detlef Kunkel on RCSB can't do it, nobody can.... Is there any shaft out the back of the engine? One-way clutch bearings are probably the most reliable way to work momentary engagement. You can always use the 1700 AHr car battery as ballast!! Scot
Posted on: 3/16/2011 8:44 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10403558
RE: P-38 Ziroli designed, built and aluminum plated by Metal-morphous
Ron, I owe you a PM or message of some sort. Mitch mentioned that I should get with you about weathering aluminum finishes. I'm close to being ready for that with a fuse. The P-38 looks great!! I'm sure nick had plenty of comments. He's a great guy and always enjoys seeing one of his designs done with great care and detail. Hope the move is smooth, and I'll try to track you down in a couple of weeks. Scot
Posted on: 3/14/2011 10:01 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10399067
RE: P-38 Ziroli designed, built and aluminum plated by Metal-morphous
Rolling Circle, Better than wheel collars are simply lengths of tubing that slide over the piston rod cut to the desired length stopping the clevis the needed distance from the cylinder. It will be sandwiched beween the bottom of the jam nut on the clevis and the top of the cylinder. Wheel colars are a one shot deal, as they will dent and burr the rod which will leak and/or cut the O-ring seal after just a few strokes, if not the first when you work the cylinder wihtout the clevis or have to reposition the collar. Brass tube can work or plastic tube as well. Scot
Posted on: 2/7/2011 4:39 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10318241
RE: Trouble with Meister elevator L/E. (Zero)
Any chance you can show a sketch or a snapshot of the plans to help understand what needs to be made?
Posted on: 1/26/2011 9:48 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10289989
RE: Scale poseable pilot making
Patti, "Stew" looks fantastic!! I'm trying to do my best to give him a mount worthy of your skills. I'm up to my eyeballs in getting the metal finish on, but with building season rolling in, I should be in good shape to get him back in the air in the Spring!! Just so you don't think I've been sitting about eating Bon-bons and watching re-runs.... [image]http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii65/stewpots/B-17/IMG_1914.jpg[/image] [image]http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii65/stewpots/B-17/IMG_1042.jpg[/image] [image]http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii65/stewpots/B-17/IMG_0572.jpg[/image] The tops and bottoms of the wings are all metal now and working the nacelle covering before tackling the fuselage. I better keep my head down to keep the pace. Can't say enough about your artistry, not only do I see all the right features, my brother has reviewed the work and thinks it is top notch as well. Thanks so much, Scot
Posted on: 11/23/2010 10:39 PM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10155643
RE: Looking for a P38
That makes sense. I think the washer is the right finishing touch. I'd probably spend extra time and solder it to the end of the tube even. There seems sufficiently over engineered now.... It is a bad habit of mine.
Posted on: 9/16/2010 3:22 PM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10006956
RE: Looking for a P38
Just a thought here; Pete, I know you are past this step, but instead of using wheel collars on the cylinder shafts to limit travel, I'd work lengths of brass tubing that fit over the shaft to the correct length such that they are squeezed between the bottom side of the clevis and the end of the cylinder because to limit stroke. I know that as soon as I had to change the actuation length on the cylinder I'd end up with a dent on the shaft from the wheel collar setscrew right in line with the O-ring and the system would leak until empty... And even if the dent didn't end up on the o-ring, it would have a slight burr on the edge of it so it cut the o-ring on a stroke and make the cylinder useless. So now that it has been thought of, it will happen...
Posted on: 9/16/2010 11:23 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10006500
RE: Looking for a P38
Well fitting name also!!
Posted on: 9/14/2010 7:25 PM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10002389
RE: Looking for a P38
If you do the restored version, you can't hide all of the mistakes under the weathering.... That could be a problem?
Posted on: 9/14/2010 8:52 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10000997
RE: Looking for a P38
Not very stripy here: [link=http://www.historicaviation.com/product_info.po;jsessionid=-5qNoWdFt5SGWuQpcXJDlgn_?ID=13715]Die_cast_P38[/link]
Posted on: 9/14/2010 8:49 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10000988
RE: Looking for a P38
The nose-art portion: [link=http://www.flickr.com/photos/18532986@N07/3583505579/]Nose_art_Picture[/link] Not so sure it had invasion stripes though: [link=http://p38assn.org/aces/jack-ilfrey.htm]P-38_association[/link] Scot
Posted on: 9/14/2010 8:45 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10000978
RE: WACO YMF
Hey Mitch, instead of T-shirts this time maybe you could get Waco underwear printed up..... Great video!! Not so sure I could get all of that out on camera without stumbling all over the place. The video really shows the beating the tail wheel servo takes on landings that can't roll out straight. Maybe separate servos, rudder and tailwheel is something to think about? Scot
Posted on: 9/12/2010 7:13 PM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9997377
RE: P-51 Wing Tip
Maybe this will help: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7461719/anchors_7461719/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#7461719
Posted on: 9/10/2010 8:59 PM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9993622
RE: Meister 1/5 scale P-47
Monster Planes, Jeff. But we understand, there weren't any pictures to convey the message...... which of course means you probably won't get this one either. Scot
Posted on: 9/2/2010 6:44 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9975659
RE: Air Venture 2010 warbird pics.
It's against the stop for full right rudder.
Posted on: 7/30/2010 7:19 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9898579
RE: P-38 Ziroli designed, built and aluminum plated by Metal-morphous
Ron, I'd guess that the down and locked system could be used for flaps without a problem. I'm not sure that it would eliminate a battery drain with a stalled mechanism, as similar to a servo, it is going to try and continue to run until it reacahes it's required end point based on input from the radio system, but Fowler flaps take less actuation force than classical flap set-ups, so I think they should work well. Not sure about room to get them mounted, etc with the wing being sealed up now though.... If you decide to go that way it will be interesting to see how it all works out though!! Keep us posted. Scot
Posted on: 7/23/2010 4:47 PM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9883846
RE: P-38 Ziroli designed, built and aluminum plated by Metal-morphous
I control the speed of flap deployment by programming through the transmitter, but I am not sure what radio system you will be using, this may not be an option. I'm guessing you have the Fowler Flaps in here. What did you do for hinging and actuation? If it is the Model Airplane News designs that they sell plans for would you be usin gservos to actuate?
Posted on: 7/13/2010 2:37 PM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9862555
RE: Moki 150 radial
I thought Troy Built was the only game in town. http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/RCS150R.html are there others?
Posted on: 7/8/2010 10:18 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9851927
RE: Topflite p47 ARF Razorback Conversion with DA 85
What diameter are the rivets? Could they be cut in different / smaller diameters for smaller scales?
Posted on: 7/6/2010 4:52 PM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9848256
RE: Thinning epoxy with Acetone and adding filler?
Acetone is not only for polyester, it will thin epoxy just fine, is made for thinig epoxy as well as polyester resins and evaporates out better than acohol without leaving any water behind. Warming the resins will also help thin them, but there wil be a shortened working time. Thinning finishing resins can help when working with the very light weight finishing cloths.
Posted on: 6/11/2010 12:40 PM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9796261
RE: Capitol Area Warbird Event Albany NY
I've been told it is not on this year, but don't know why or if it is only a single year hiatus. Scot
Posted on: 6/4/2010 8:54 AM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9780097
RE: Diluting epoxy?
I to am a fan of thinning epoxy with acetone and not alcohol. I thin the finishing resin 25-30% for the first coat. I lay the glass cloth on the airframe and lightly brush with a drafting brush. That creates a little static electricity to hold the cloth down and smooths out any wrinkles. Then I pour a small amount of thinned resin on the cloth and spread it with a playing card. Light pressure on the card as it will pull the weave of the glass otherwise. The epoxy thinned at 20-30% is almost the consistency of water, so a little goes a long way. I squeege this first layer to a flat sheen. I let that cure, usually just over night in a 65 degree shop and hit it lightly with 100 grit paper. Then I mix up a second batch of epoxy and thin it 15-20%. Again pour on and spread with a playing card. Squeege with the card until the sheen is semi-gloss and let it cure. You will have a thin, strong finishing surface to work from. Lightly sand with 120 grit and you are ready to move onto primers and fillers.
Posted on: 5/28/2010 2:24 PM by Author "Scotsman"
in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9765498
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