Subscription Double Emails
Just recently, last two days, I have been receiving 2 emails for every post on any of the threads that I have a subscription. Got a fix?
Posted on: 11/21/2009 12:22 AM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Forum questions or problems"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9269166

RE: Four Star Sixty on Floats Finished
Checking out some engine weights ... Saito 91 - 19 oz OS 91 FX - 24 oz OS 120 FS - 33 oz. YS 110 - 27 oz YS 120 - 31 oz. My lil ole 4*60 with the Saito 91 balances without any added weight. I can't imagine slapping another 12 oz heavier engine plus a bunch of lead on it without seriously upgrading the power. My engine supply includes a Saito 100, OS 91 FX, Super Tiger G90 and a YS 110. Which power plant would you folks suggest using for a float plane? Btw, the floats are SIG "did'nt make it to market" 40" units.
Posted on: 11/20/2009 12:24 AM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266766

RE: Four Star Sixty on Floats Finished
Very nice. Don't see a tail wheel so I'm guessing that it's dedicated to the water. Not being "float" aware, what have you done for rudder controls? Is there a dedicated servo out back? Or, did you route a control thru the fuse to attach to the rudder servo? I built my 4*60 with a reinforced 1/4" ply plate w/ 1/4-20 blind nuts on the bottom of the fuse just aft of the former at the rear of the wing mounting plate. Just in case ... Em, I've been told that a float flyer needs to be overpowered by 20%. Any truth to this rumor? I've got a Saito 91 mounted. It is by no means a crowd pleaser - just slow-n-easy. Thanks for sharing - nice cowl.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 4:23 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9265639

RE: I can fly, now I want to build...
Do your homework. There are a ton of build threads on RCU. RCKen did a very nice build thread for a SIG LT-40. Not suggesting the LT-40, just suggesting that you read the thread - good tips-n-techniques. Find out where others had issues and how they resolved them. What tools are necessary and what tools are nice to have. When it comes to covering - simple - listen to or ask help from MinnFlyer. He's done some super videos. The reference to airfieldmodels.com is an excellent suggestion. If you want your RCU friends lookin' over your shoulder and have a digital camera, do a build thread. Others will be more than happy to follow along and promptly answer your questions so that you can keep the build movin' along. Oh yea, enjoy!
Posted on: 11/19/2009 4:10 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9265612

RE: Learn something new everyday
As the internet evolves as the dominant information channel we're having a heck of a time keeping our club's membership up. Oh, MinnFlyer - thanks for the heads up on flying at altitude. I was wunderin' why my planes keep crashin' at altitude - must be underpowered ... [;)]
Posted on: 11/19/2009 3:54 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9265585

RE: Horizon Hobbies Customer Service policies
Not comforting. They have tested and repaired 4 or 5 post-crash Spektrum receivers for free. They have repaired and tested an Evolution 52 for free (new carb). I've had several conversations with their support department on Spektrum stuff, Evolution stuff and Saito stuff and shared several detailed howto emails with their staff. With that said I never directed a phone call to sales. Ya have a good question about the firewall. How about starting a thread on RCU looking for a helpful owner of a P-47. I have posed this same question to SIG about one of their planes. Had a coversation with their tech / builder and based on the information I ordered a cowl. Oops, the dimensions were accurate but the angles of departure from the firewall of the top, sides and bottom of the fuse were very different and the cowl didn't fit. Oh well. Good luck on getting the info that you need.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 3:38 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9265551

RE: Bridi Killer Chaos 60 Build Thread
Em, how to say this, emmmm - oh yea I HATE CUTTING HINGE SLOTS! OK - I said it - and I mean it. I finished cutting the hinge slots for the rudder, fin, stab and elevators. On the elevators - there is a dang hardwood dowel connecting the 2 elevator halves that, according to the plans, should have a hinge slot. The last slot of the stab are "covered" with an extension that covers up the tips of the elevators. Of course, the hinge slot is nestled in the corner. The trailing edge of the fin is hardwood. 4 hinge slots required. Pftzzzzzzzzzzz .... What hinges did I choose to use? Dubro standard nylon flat hinges with a pin along the hinge line. What hinges should I have used? Robart - maybe next time! pic 1 - the "new" fin with a piece of 1/2 x 1/4 stock for the leading edge. pic 2 - stab w/ slots cut pic 3 & 4 - stab-n-elevator - I left the elevator LE rounded to match the 1/4" dowel connecting the halves. It provides 1 3/4" throw. pic 5 - TE of the fin (hardwood - blech) pic 6 - ditto - note the abrasions on the soft 1/4 balsa sheet where the hinge slot cutting tools angled out through the surface pic 7 & 8 - fin-n-rudd fitted. Rudd LE has not yet been shaped. pic 9 - various tools used during "The Cut" - GP Hinge Slot cutter worthless on anything other than very soft balsa.
Posted on: 11/16/2009 10:47 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9259218

RE: saito 91 rpms??
This stuff is too good for a "beginner" forum thread! I have a Saito 91 (ringed) in a 4Star60 with a Zinger 13x6/10. It pulls immediately when I roll on the power. I've swapped it with 13x7 and a 14x4 (giggles-n-grins) one after the other. The plane would just hesitate big time before accelerating when throttle applied. I can imagine if I was about to stall or some other "unplanned" flight line problem occurred I'd much rather have the immediate pull of the 13x6/10. Just for the record I'm not talking about going WFO just kickin' it up a couple of clicks. Btw - I did a rebuild thread on a ringed 91 a while back - poor subject "Saito 91S Lacks Power" www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7628750/anchors_7628750/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#7628750
Posted on: 11/16/2009 9:39 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9259044

RE: DX7 ???
Depending on alien sightings or solar flares a model will occasionally "un-bind" itself. I always use a 3 wire switch / charge port "so as I don't haf ta remember more-n-one bind method". I'm just not smart enough and have fat fingers to remember how to bind a Rx any other way. [:@] I have one AR7000 that I swear to the heavens above would NOT bind. So, I sent it back to Horizon where they ran it through a couple of tests - all positive. Got the Rx back with a note from the tech that all is well with the Rx and it binds fine. I set up a test connection outside the plane with the Rx, a battery, one servo (THRO) and a switch. With the bind plug inserted the Rx did NOT flash rapidly - BUT - it did bind. And when it did bind the lights on this particular Rx and remote were not as intense as any of my other 6 Rx's. Go figure.
Posted on: 11/16/2009 9:08 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9258972

RE: motor mount
There are 2 standard mounting dimensions. One is the width or lateral distance between the center of the holes (dim A) and the length or longitudinal distance between the centers (dim B). Most manufacturers publish this stuff (especially OS for all current and discontinued engines). Dim A for both engines is 1.59 in. and Dim B for both is .69 in. I just hate it when they use standard measurements rather than metric! In metric it's A - 44 mm, B - 18 mm. www.osengines.com/engines/engine-specs-discontinued.html is the OS spec page with all this stuff.
Posted on: 11/16/2009 8:53 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9258934

RE: 2stroke idle - a compromise?
[quote]ORIGINAL: chocorrol is there a general rule on how long an engine should stay at idle without dying or it depends on the engine? I mean, does any engine suppose to be able to idle for let's say 5 minutes? does it depend on the settings or just the model of the engine? [/quote] It should idle easily for 30 seconds on the starting bench with NO glow plug igniter attached. It should transition smoothly from idle to full throttle in approx. 1 second with no stumbles. 1. check glow plug - a glow plug may work but is not optimal. I use an #8 plug for all my 40 / 60 2-strokes. Can't tell ya how many times an "expert" tells me to swap the plug and "TaDa" - smooth operation. One of these days I will rememeber this and NOT have to be reminded by an expert. 2. are there any air bubbles showing in the fuel line between the high speed needle and the carb? I don't know if this engine has separate carb / needle assembly with a connecting fuel line - if they are 1 piece - check the fuel line into the carb/needle assem ... If there are air bubbles between the needle & carb then air is getting into the fuel line between the engine and the needle assem OR between the needle assem and the carb OR thru the high speed needle assem itself (o-rings). Oh yea, had a situation where my fuel tank was solidly mounted without foam. Engine vibration caused foaming in the tank that then transferred to the needle assem and then to the carb. No fuel line problems just needed to isolate tank with foam. Some anal retentive types use stainless thin guage wire and safety wire the fuel lines to the various nipples to ensure "no air leaks" - be careful 'cause those little wires can puncture the fuel line (don't ask how I know this) 3. steal (OK - be nice and ask to borrow) some new fuel from a friend and replace your stuff with the new stuff. 4. All else fails - sell it to someone you don't like BTW - I happen to use Hobbico power panel that has an amp guage for my wired glow igniter. Allows me to turn off the juice to the glow plug without having to physically remove the igniter.
Posted on: 11/16/2009 8:36 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9258891

RE: First crash - need help
[quote]ORIGINAL: Scratchie ... its landing gear and belly. BUSA Smoothie, 52” ws, 4 lbs, 10 oz, 0.46 OS AX ... Here are my questions: 1. I couldn’t turn the prop until after I loosened the glow plug – what is engine lock and does my story sound like it? 2. What are the signs of a bent crankshaft/propeller shaft? 3. Do I just start the engine and see what happens? I’m very good with wood, but I know very little and have little experience with engines. [/quote] Hey Scratchie - sorry to hear 'bout your misfurtune - been-there-n-done-that ... I have crunched 2 planes that both used an OS 46 AX for power. Both mishaps resulted in damaged crankcases. I just finished replacing the case on one this past weekend. This last one was planted up to the firewall in dirt (lost radio signal and it was in a full throttle down line from 100 feet - oops - it was the plane that I use for my avitar). If there is sufficient dirt to warrant "cleaning" the engine I would remove the engine from the mount and clean it thoroughly - don't gamble on dirt in the carb assembly, crank or combustion chamber. Removal of the engine from the mount will give you the comfort of determining if the mount or the mounting bolts have been affected. Or, unlikely, if the case is cracked around the mount. If you chose to ... A partial teardown will ensure that there is no dirt on the inside. All ya need is a small set of metric allen wrenches - the OS line is metric, a philips head screw driver, alcohol, q-tips, paper towels, and a work space. I lay out 4 - 6 pieces of paper towels on my bench which aborbs the alcohol and keeps little parts from rolling away. 1. Remove the high-speed needle assembly bracket and the back plate (4 allen bolts). 2. Remove the head (4 allen bolts) - loosen gradually by slightly loosening one bolt, cross diagonally, loosen the second, then the other two. Return and loosen them more following the same sequence. Finally, remove all 4. Remove the head - it will have a brass-colored head gasket embedded / recessed in the head. 3. Remove the cylinder liner - easily removed with your fingers. It has a little locating pin on the top of the crankcase so ya don't have to worry about marking / remembering how is was removed. 4. Remove the piston & rod assem. The rod big end has a babbet bearing - one side is flush with the rod material and the other is beveled at 45 degrees. Note which side this little bit of a bevel faces. 5. Remove the carb - 2 philips screws. Make sure ya don't knacker the heads. With screws out rotate back-n-forth to ensure that the o-ring seal located where the carb mounts to the crankcase is free then carefully pull the carb out. 6. Clean all your stuff in an alcohol bath using q-tips, toothbrush, whatever ... Make sure that the carb is clean and that the barrel moves freely. Make sure that the bearings are clean - one just behind the prop and one in the center of the case - both support the crank. And make sure that the crank rotates freely with NO rough spots. If there are ANY rough spots (depending on age of the engine or possible any unlikely damage resulting from this crash) replace the bearings. Make sure that the alcohol has a chance to flow through the carb, the crank, the bearings and slosh out any dirt that's in the case. 7. Dry-n-Lube - I use air tool lube or after-run oil as lube. Maybe 3-in-1 would work too. I make sure that the piston wrist-pin is lubed, the bearings get a dose, the crank pin for the piston connecting rod. The inside of the liner. 8. Reassem: Insert the piston-n-rod into the cylinder with the big end hole over the crank pin (makin' sure that the bevel is goin' the right direction); slowly slide the lubed liner over the piston and into the case - rotating it so that the locating pin and little hole line up - and is fully seated on the top of the cylinder; install the head (with brass-colored gasket in place) with 4 bolts; tighten bolts crisscross gradually - using finger tip torque of thumb and two fingers only (not all 4 fingers!); install the back plate with the high-speed needle assem - crisscross the bolts - finger tip torque only; install the carb with a bit of lube around the o-ring; insert the 2 philips head screws but please don't over tighten - easy to strip the holes. You're done. This may seem a bit extreme but only takes less than 30 minutes and you will be assured of having a clean engine. Caution: There is a small thrust washer that mounts between the prop washer and the front ball bearing. Make sure that when you remove the prop washer that you look on the back and check to make sure that the thrust washer is sticking to the back of the prop washer or has stayed on the bearing side. It has a bad habit of disappearing IMHO - Hydralic lock is when liquid fuel fills the crankcase which will not permit the piston to move down in the power stroke. The volume of the crankcase includes the area just below the carb, the inside of the crankshaft (it's hollow) and the large expanded area within the crankcase. I've included a couple of attachements. One is the schematic of the engine and the other is a text document of "stuff" specific to the OS 46 AX. I know - you asked a simple question and weren't expeting a thesis ...
Posted on: 11/16/2009 8:09 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9258818

HowTo Resize Photos
I have found a useful (and free) utility for resizing photos. The tool is called PhotoRazor. It can be found at www.stormdance.net/software/photorazor/software%20overview.htm. I have successfully used it on Windows XP, Windows Vista and Windows 7. This is NOT a certification of the product but simply feedback for your anticipated questions. You can resize an entire folder of all or selected pics and save the resulting pics in the same folder with a standard prefix / suffix or create a new subfolder. My last resize was to take a picture of my SSE which was originally 800 pixels wide and reduce it to 85 pixels wide as limited by the forum for use as an avitar. Took a couple of seconds. Just sharing ...
Posted on: 11/13/2009 7:20 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9251889

RE: Building servo tray, Ultimate 40 Kit
Interesting use of a rubber band to hold the hatches in place. Yet another "note" for the future.
Posted on: 11/13/2009 6:34 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9251780

RE: Post pic of your runway from Google Earth
Our club's field is made up of 3 separate fields. The East field is concrete, the center field (CL) is earth, and the west field is "improved" earth with heli-pads. There's also a off-road course adjacent to the west field. pic 1 - overview pic 2 - east field pic 3 - CL field pic 4 - west field We also have a weather station adjacent to the west field. It's accessable thru our club's website www.arvadamodelers.com/
Posted on: 11/13/2009 2:58 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9251304

RE: Building servo tray, Ultimate 40 Kit
My only concern has to do with the thickness of the wing. Make sure that there is sufficient space to mount the servo frame and servo without something poking out the "other" side of the wing. It may require that you "expose" part of the servo to ensure that all will fit. If that is the case then I go along with JohnBuckner's suggestion. The SIG Somethin' Extra uses this approach. Yea, not the cleanest installation but installation of the control arms and "trimming" the servo throws will be much easier. Good luck,
Posted on: 11/13/2009 2:45 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9251282

RE: 1 st low wing
Nah - if you're gonna do an ARF low wing pylon racer take the LA Racer over the Mach II - both manufactured by The World Models. The LA has dual aileron servos, cowl and more aesthetic overall look. At least in the US you can pick them up unhinged.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 7:45 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9223582

RE: 1 st low wing
The design engineer responsible for the SIG Somethin' Extra is a lurker on RCU. He's still flying the original "box cover photo" SSE as it is still in his hanger. Ya want to laugh out loud (LOL) on the flight line? Hit the high rates and let 'er rip! Altitude is a good thing ...
Posted on: 11/2/2009 1:59 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9222734

RE: 1 st low wing
You can see the TF Contender at www.top-flite.com/airplanes/topa0210.html Em, build-to-bones in 10-16 hours? Uh huh, yea sure, really - how gullible do ya think I am . Heck, I have over 16 hours just trying to figure out how to unpack the box and come up with my covering scheme. Oh, BTW - Ultracote over Monokote! Yea, it's a religious thing.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 1:09 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9222632

RE: Beveling Basics help
GB - me too. Easier to correct any major CG or assembly issue B4 covering. I also do a lateral balance and epoxy necessary wing weights b4 covering too 'cause weight of covering doesn't affect lateral balance.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 12:28 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9222514

RE: 1 st low wing
Pictures are good motivators - my 2 4Star60 builds ... pics 1-3 - 1st build pic 4 - 2nd build Both powered by Saito 91 w/ 13x6/10 props.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 9:32 AM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9222181

RE: Beveling Basics help
Excellent point GB - "cuttin' the slots" B4 ya bevel the piece. Thinkin' that that suggestion comes for some personal experience [8|].
Posted on: 11/1/2009 11:27 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9221600

RE: 1 st low wing
Gotta admit that I'd jump on a Pulse XT kit without hesitating. Friends fly both the 40 and 60 sizes and they can't say enough good things about 'em. Shame that sites like Hobby Horse sell Hangar 9 Pulse XT "kits". Only they ain't kits - they're ARFs - geez - they need ta read their Funken-Wagnal ...
Posted on: 11/1/2009 11:24 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9221588

RE: 1 st low wing
I'll stick my lil toe in ... I KNOW that you said "low wing" - got that 'cause I can read [:)] You asked for something that will fly "on rails and can fly aero". Well, what if ya raise the wing a bit? My 1st and 3rd builds were 4Star60s and my 2nd and 4th were SIG Somethin' Extra's (mid wing). On rails? 4Star - not so much. Somethin' Extra - oh yea!!! The SSE (SIG Somethin' Extra) is a very popular 40-sized kit - easy to build great fun to fly. Check out the threads - there's plenty of them. Just sayin' ...
Posted on: 11/1/2009 8:28 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9221143

RE: Beveling Basics help
I picked up several pieces of 90 degree angled aluminum stock from my local Home Depot. Pic 1 shows one with 80 grit paper glued to one edge using 3M 77 spray adhesive. Pic 2 is with it on edge exposing the sand paper. I can use this as a 90 degree sanding fence or flip it over to sand an angled surface. This one does NOT have equal length sides so it won't make a 45 degree angle. Use one with equal length sides and the resulting angle will be 45 degrees.
Posted on: 11/1/2009 5:39 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9220764

RE: Tinmans' 4*60 build has begun... 1st build!!!
Fantastic! Hope ya don't have an addictive personality 'cause if you do - just plan on buying more kits now. [:D] If ya have a significant other, time to start banking those IOU's too.
Posted on: 10/28/2009 7:20 PM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9210426

RE: Hog Bipe Build - 2009
Thanks for the background. Looks like you've got this "thing" for twins. Maybe some day ... Is this the stuff that you use? BTW - optical illusion - the white based plane looks bigger than the purple/wht as the leading edge disappears. How does the purple leading edge show up on final approach?
Posted on: 10/27/2009 11:48 AM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9205890

RE: Storing Glow Engines (2 & 4 stroke)
Things ya need include a gasket set, assorted metric allen wrench set, q-tips, alcohol bath (I use a tupperware container) and some after run oil, air tool oil or something similar to lube things up on reassembly. Just a note for when you pull it apart. The con rod has a bevel on one side of the big end busing. If you pull the piston and con rod NOTE the direction of the bevel. All OS engines that I've pulled apart have the bevel pointing towards the rear of the engine - but haven't done a 46 FX yet. With it apart lube the crank ball bearings and give the crank a spin. If there is any uneven feel to the crank when spun take the time to replace the bearings. I'm going to guess that the rear big bearing will be a nice shade of brown. Good luck - start a thread if you want some input from your favorite peanut gallery that ALWAYS has an opinion and NEVER hesitates to share [:D]
Posted on: 10/27/2009 12:56 AM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9205064

RE: LA Racer 40 Solid Color ARF on Sale
After removing the factory (blech) covering. If it is already hinged leave an original covering strip on both the leading edge of the control surface and the trailing edge of the fixed surface. First: Cover all of the 90 degree fixed surface intersections with "seam strips" of covering that are about 1/2" wide. These strips will ensure that no wood at the seams will be exposed. Helps to crease them down the middle first. Toughest part will be the where the fin leading edge intersects the fuse and the stab intersection with the fuse. This way you won't have to wrap any big pieces of covering over the seams - a butt joint at the seam will do fine. My sequence would be: bottom rear - 1 piece - wrap 1/4" up over the sides bottom front - 1 piece - ditto on the wrap sides - 1 piece each side. You can do your measurements accurately enough to be able to make a stab "cut out" that fits nicely around the stab. Just leave enough extra width so that you can cover the entire side up to the firewall. Wrap 1/8" around the bottom and 1/4" over the top. top - 1 piece. Use the same approach as you did with the sides. Wrap 1/8" down over the sides. control surfaces - 1 piece for each side. Hope ya have a sense of humor 'cause this is where you'll need to stretch covering over the edges on something that you can't securely hold down. Make sure that you get the leading edge down straight with respect to the covering NOT the control surface - if you don't you WILL have bubbles / wrinkles when you try to pull the covering over the trailing edge. I exclusively use Ultracote. The only question would be how well the adhesive activates and attaches to the original covering left on the leading / trailing edges. I don't know pylon racing well enough to recommend sealing hinge lines with covering. If you do cover hinge line I have found that Ultracote lite transparent (clear) covering adheres extremely well to the base covering with a low heat trim iron. Also, it is very flexible and does not appear to add much resistance to flexing of control surfaces like a standard weight Ultracote covering would. HTH,
Posted on: 10/26/2009 11:59 AM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Club 40"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9203113

RE: Hog Bipe Build - 2009
Very nice. Em, how about a knife edge with the bottom facing the flight line! Things that caught my attention ... purple-n-white white covering on fin's leading edge where it meets the fuse - actually, the covering on both the fin and stab graphics on the top of the wing subtle purple side stripe Couple of questions ... why the stab-fin support rods? I know, just need some additional weight to offset that twin what size is the Saito twin? do you know the "flight line" weight? Again - very nice!
Posted on: 10/26/2009 11:37 AM by Author "SeamusG" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9203066