RE: Switching 2601 TX from mode 2 to mode 1?
Thanks Ted, I did find a procedure for switching modes at the Walkera home page. Here is the link[link=http://www.walkera.com/en1/info.jsp?id=90]2601 mode conversion[/link] for any of you out there that prefer MODE 1. Shadow
Posted on: 8/11/2009 12:54 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9007719

Switching 2601 TX from mode 2 to mode 1?
I have a co-worker who only knows how to fly in mode 1 (he's from Japan). Can the 2601 TX be converted to MODE 1, since 90% of the TX's sold here in the USA are mode 2. I know that the gimbal springs & rachet will have to be swapped, but what else is there. Thanks, Shadow
Posted on: 8/11/2009 11:44 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9007542

RE: Walkera 4G6 first impression
Is that a shaft-driven tail off the main gear? I can just see a crown gear on the tail in one of the photos, but you said it has BL motors? So where are they hiding the tail motor. Can a 4g3 be converted to the pitched tail set-up, I like that alot!! [:D][:D][:D] Shadow
Posted on: 8/9/2009 11:04 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9001863

RE: axe 400 got hot
The first thing that comes to mind is that there is excessive fiction loading up the motor. This could be between the motor pinion & main gear, or the tail belt is too tight, causing excessive draw on the motor & ESC, making them HOT. Check your gear mesh between the motor pinion & main drive gear. You should be able to take a strip of paper (about .0035" thick), and feed it inbetween the main gear & pinion. It should come out the other side with neat folds, if it doesn't fit thru, or tears are on paper, the mesh is too tight readjust the motor pinion to gear. If the paper comes out with only slighly crimpled, the mesh is too loose, readjust. A simple way to adjust gear mesh is to slip the paper inbetween the main gear & pinion, then push the motor up snug to the paper & tighten the bolts, then check the paper. Next check the tail belt tension, it should be tight enough so the belt doesn't slip on the tail belt pulleys but not so tight that it loads up the tail belt drive, belt too tight. I normally press on the belt just behind the drive assembly it should deflect about 1/4" or so. If you hold the main gear so it doesn't move & turn the tail rotor you should feel the belt deflect but not slip on the tail pulley. To adjust the tail belt tension move the tail gear housing forward just a bit, you may have to move the tail servo mount forward the same amount, otherwise your tail blade pitch & gyro will be out-of-whack. Shadow
Posted on: 8/9/2009 10:55 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9001849

RE: novus cp tail boom
Yes, on the Novus CP the tail motor wires run inside the boom, you will have to unsolder the wires at the tail motor to get them out, also you can run the wires outside the boom, just tape them on. Walkera 4g3 & 4#3b tail booms are the same as the Novus CP booms. Shadow
Posted on: 8/4/2009 3:24 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8989648

RE: Getting some sort of glitching / Interference.
So any updates? Did the 2.4ghz module take care of the "possesed heli?" Are you flying it yet?! Shadow
Posted on: 7/20/2009 2:48 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8949219

RE: idle up
The only one that hasn't been flow is the MX300 (was AXE CPv1), due to lack of lipo's that fit. All my old 11.1v 3s 1350mah 15c lipo's I was using PUFFED! So I drained/neutrilized & disposed of them, that left me with the (2) 20c 1350mah lipo's & one has a weak cell (I use that one for the tail UV LED night-flying set-up on the 500). So that leaves me 1 usable lipo to fly on, I have a couple of 1800mah 3s lipo's for the belt cp, but they are too heavy on the MX300 (wicked nose heavy). The 4g3 get the most use lately (indoors), due to bad New England weather, followed by the 500 which I can fly in winds that ground most other pilots (rotory & plankers). Shadow
Posted on: 7/20/2009 2:44 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8949198

RE: tail problems
What was it? A) Linkage to long/short? B) Gain to low/high? C) Or linkage binding? Or a combination of all of them, just curious. Shadow
Posted on: 7/19/2009 4:42 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8946608

RE: novus cp outside 1st time
What?! You can't run a STEATH mission indoors? [:'(] That's a mighty cool paint job, but I wonder if your gonna be able to see it against a dark background, (bushes, trees, stockade fence). One of the other canopy's I had for my AXE CP was flat black with refective tape stripes on it, real steathy & cool, till the tree ate it! Went back to a bright yellow canopy the tree hasn't been a problem since. Can't fly it, if ya can't see it! [;)] Shadow
Posted on: 7/19/2009 4:31 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8946591

RE: Cherry Query
Jason, see your other post in Helimax regarding your Novus CX. Your MCX issue is one of the 2 motors is pulling more curent out of the low battery than the other, some rudder trim may take care of that, or land before you reach that point. You should only be flying 80% of the batterys capacity, so if control becomes lacking LAND. Shadow
Posted on: 7/19/2009 11:21 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8945970

RE: Question About Tower Pro 90 Servos
Yep, You had it! Yellow is signal, Orange is positive, Brown is ground. Shadow
Posted on: 7/19/2009 11:13 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Esky Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8945948

RE: Alternative 4#3 Brushless motors?
Just remember if you boost your main motor to the TurboAce, your gonna want to upgrade the tail motor to BL as well, otherwise when you throttle-up hard, the tail will blow out due to torque. Shadow
Posted on: 7/19/2009 11:02 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8945925

RE: Novus CX Question
On 90% of co-axials the swashplate is only controlled by 2 servo (elevator & ailerion). My first thought is that the swashplate is NOT level when the TX trims are set neutral. If ailerion was applied the heli would bank/turn (right/left) in a large circle, if elevator was applied the heli move forward/backward. If the heli spins on its own axis, that would be a revo mix or gyro adjustment, unequal torque between the 2 rotors causes the heli to YAW (rudder input). With your trims set neutral, look at the heli's swashplate from the front, is it tilted left or right? Adjust the ball linkage from the linear servo so the swashplate is level. Flight test it, does it still make banked turns? Shadow
Posted on: 7/19/2009 10:55 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8945903

RE: idle up
Those are my favorite 4! From right to left we have: Walkera 4g3 DBL BL, MX300 (was an AXE CPv1), half-breed Esky Belt CP w/trex 450 head, and last the Trex 500. I have a few others in the collection, mostly co-axials (Hirobo Shuttle, Esky Big Lama) & an auto-gryo. The only heli that still uses the stock TX is the half-breed Belt CP (notice the antenna on the right landing gear struts?), only cause I built it for a friend out of used parts, cheap & dirty, but a functional flier. Shadow
Posted on: 7/19/2009 10:40 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8945879

RE: idle up
I'm no pro 3D flier either, I just dabble with it. But 90% of the time I fly all my heli's in IDLE-UP, all but 1 start off in IDLE-UP from a dead stop (throttle HOLD switch on DX7), the rest I spool up in NORMAL MODE & switch to IDLE-UP just before lift-off. In windy conditions (10 to 25mph winds), of which we have had alot of here, I prefer the higher headspeed. It gives the heli a more stable flight, although as I stated before it will make the collective & cyclic react FAST, so you need to be "ON THE BALL!" Shadow
Posted on: 7/17/2009 9:28 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8940720

RE: Novus Cp Problems/Plz Help!
That would be the Elevator servo, it also controls the pitch of the blades too. Could be a bad connection at the RX, carefully unplug the servo lead from the RX & then plug it back in. If it still twitches, it's most likely bad, replace it. Well if yours doesn't beep, remove the canopy, you should at least notice during the binding process that red LED on the RX flashes, then the servo reset & center themselves & the flashing goes to solid red LED. That says the TX & RX are bound, your good to go! Shadow
Posted on: 7/17/2009 9:17 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8940698

RE: Alternative 4#3 Brushless motors?
The stock BL motor on the 4#3 & 4g3 is 11,000kv. There are other BL motors you can use besides the Walkera unit. Check this out [link=http://wowhobbies.com/http/wowhobbies.com/43bparts.aspx]4#3 Upgrades[/link] Shadow
Posted on: 7/16/2009 3:18 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8938742

RE: Novus Cp Problems/Plz Help!
A couple of things you may want to check on the TX before you try and bind. Make sure the throttle is all the way down or OFF, also make sure the throttle trim is all the way down as well. You only have 10 seconds to plug in the heli after turning on the TX, if you are late it won't bind. That's why I line-up the male & female plugs on the heli with one hand, then on the TX with the other, then push plugs together. You should then hear some beeps, that's the 4in1 arming, several seconds later you should hear 3 more beeps (the rotorhead may twitch during those beeps), that's the ESC arming. The LED on the RX should be a solid red light, that says your ready to fly, if the LED on the RX is still flashing the RX has not binded with the TX, unplug the heli, turn off TX & try again. Mine gave me some issues the first day I tried binding it as well, you will get it, it's just in the timing. Shadow
Posted on: 7/16/2009 9:11 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8937854

RE: Novus CP issues...
Pretty much, I took a 200mm blade (both wood & plastic) and trimmed them down to the 140mm required for the 4g3. Balanced them both for blade CG & overall weight. Anything longer than 145mm and you'll have blade strikes with the tail. The woodies I tried first, they work OK, there light-weight makes them handle like the stock foamies, slow reacting cyclic. The plastic blades with there slightly heavier mass, makes hovering a bit easier, & cyclic performance is a close second to the CF set I have. Shadow
Posted on: 7/15/2009 3:50 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8936020

RE: Novus Cp Problems/Plz Help!
NEVER, EVER, under any circumstances should the heli be plugged in first ALWAYS SECOND!!!! That habit is BAD, BAD, BAD... 2.4ghz or NOT! TURN ON THE TX FIRST! PLUG IN THE HELI...Allow to intalize, fly! WHEN DONE FLYING UNPLUG HELI FIRST! TURN OFF TX. Shadow
Posted on: 7/15/2009 3:42 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8936003

RE: idle up
Yep, You'll cut about 2 to 3 minutes off in Idle-Up. Shadow
Posted on: 7/15/2009 1:21 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8935662

RE: Novus Cp Problems/Plz Help!
OK, well my is far from stock, but lets see... I don't use the foamy stock blades (I run cut-down Gaui EP200 plastic blades & CF), but general rule with micro & nano sized helis states: they should be snug enough in the blade grips not to move freely, but not so loose that they fall. I set them so when I hold the heli 90 degrees to the side they stay, if I shake the heli they both slip about the same amount without colapsing in. Also I'm running double BL motors, so my wiring will differ. The plug that goes into the battery will be a walkera 2 pole male micro connector, I believe it comes out of the 4in1 in the lower righthand side. On mine you'll notice 2 sets of wires wrapped with electrical tape (that the BL ESC & Flea BL tail ESC tied together). First pic is of stock 4in1 with BL main, second is of DBL BL set-up. Shadow
Posted on: 7/15/2009 1:15 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8935646

RE: Novus CP issues...
Heli's THIS SMALL tend to fly like a "hummingbird on EXPRESSO!" [:D][:D][:D] I've have several sized heli's from 200 to 500 sized, and this little booger is the toughest to handle! Headspeed is your BEST friend with these nano-sized helis! Also adding slighly heavier blades helps the stability as well without adding flybar weights to slow the cyclic. I made main blades from cut down Gaui EP200 plastic blades, the heavier blade helps out with a more-stable hover, without dulling the cyclic down to a boring non-reactive setting. Shadow
Posted on: 7/15/2009 9:30 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8935146

RE: tail problems
I would say that the heli was not set-up correctly with the gyro. With the heli in RATE MODE, the tail should not drift while in a hover, if it does, note the direction. Adjust the servo position or the linkage (shorter or longer) so that the heli does not drift in RATE MODE while in a hover. Then switch to HH MODE, the tail should be LOCKED-IN solid, if it wags the gain is set to high (lower the gain slightly & retest). If it drifts still in HH mode increase the gain slightly & retest. Also check for the linkage BINDING at any standoffs, or the tail-pitch slider assembly, this will cause extra strain on the servo which will affect performace of the tail. Shadow
Posted on: 7/15/2009 9:16 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8935114

RE: Getting some sort of glitching / Interference.
Well that SUCKS, Kenny! I'd thought for sure that the ferrite ring would cure your servo-woes / interference issues.[:'(] I wonder if it could be the BL motor, have you tried removing the motor from the ESC (pull 2 of the BL wires off, motor won't run on 1 phase). Does it still twitch? If you change throttle position does that change anything? Shadow
Posted on: 7/15/2009 8:59 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8935093

RE: idle up
That's is what makes a small heli like the AXE CP stable is the HEADSPEED! [X(][X(][:D] The higher the headspeed the MORE stable the heli will tend to FEEL. Flying in IDLE-UP, will make the gyroscopic action of the rotorhead more stable, BUT it will increase the cyclic & collective reactions as well, so BE ON YOUR TOES!!! Shadow
Posted on: 7/15/2009 8:50 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8935074

RE: CPv3 3in1 Confussion
By removing the 3in1 you are removing the following: Main brushed motor ESC Tail brushed motor ESC Rate Gyro You didn't say if you were still using the 3in1 with your HH gyro or a separate ESC for the tail motor (C-12), if your are in fact using only the main motor ESC part of the 3in1, than yes all you would need is a 20-25amp brushed ESC for the main motor. Your AXE CP has been converted to SEPARATES! By switching to separates all you did was break down the 3in1 into individual componets, which is considered an UPGRADE! Separate Main motor ESC, Tail motor ESC & Futaba Heading Hold gyro. Shadow
Posted on: 7/15/2009 8:45 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8935059

RE: Novus Cp Problems/Plz Help!
EVERY TIME you turn on your NOVUS TX it is LOOKING to BIND with the RX! The NOVUS series from Helimax is a copy of the Walkera based products, so your Novus CP is the stripped down version of a WALKERA 4g3. The trick is to line-up the nano-sized plugs between the 3.7v lipo & the 4 in 1 (that's the 2.4ghz RX, Main & Tail motor ESC's & Rate Gyro). But DON'T PLUG THEM IN, now reach over & turn ON the TX (it will start to flash), NOW plug in the lipo! You should here the intalization beeps, put the heli down on a flat surface, and let it finish intalizing. When the TX light goes steady on (from flashing), your ready to fly! As far as your vibration is concerned, my first bet is that the Feathering Spindle is BENT since it is the weakest componet on the heli, or you need to track the blades! If the feathering spindle is bent, you can check it by removing the blades, insert a #0 phillips screwdriver into the blade grip and turn it, if you see that blade grip or the other move up & down or side to side, then the FS is bent (replace it). To check/adjust blade tracking, first we need to know which blade is HIGH. If you have the stock foamies, they should have colored tape on the tips of the blades, carefully hold the heli by the battery tray & spin up the rotors, you should be able to see one blade tracking higher than the other (red or blue), whichever blade is HIGH is the one were after. We adjust the linkage that goes from the swashplate to the Bell-Hiller mixing arm, to adjust tracking. If the blade is high, shorten the likage. Then recheck your work! Shadow
Posted on: 7/15/2009 8:36 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8935039

RE: novus cp outside 1st time
The Novus CP is a re-gifted Walkera 4g3, the aluminum rotorhead is a good upgrade, but unless you can be SURE you are not gonna crash I would NOT install the CF blades! The weakest part of the rotorhead is the feathering spindle (FS), it is 0.059" (1.5mm) in diameter with a 1mm thread in each end. With the aluminum blade grips installed, any contact with CF blades with the heli in IDLE-UP will result in a bent FS spindle & blade grip bearing damage (crunchy bearings). If you are a noobie-flyer I'd stick with the stock foamies! If you are an intermedite-level flyer I'd recommend cutting down Gaui EP200 plastic blades down to 140mm long, they are the same root thickness, & bolt hole as your novus cp (4g3). I did this with plastic & wood blades, I'm flying now on the modified plastic blades & prefer them over the woodies. The woodies are so light that they make the cyclic respond slowly (like the foamies), the plastic perform just as well as the CF set I have without the worry of having to replace the FS after contact with a blade of grass. Shadow
Posted on: 7/8/2009 9:08 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8917351

RE: A few gyro questions. Need help fast.
The Telebee HH gyro should work just fine on the AXE CP, I'm using one on a modified Belt CP & it works great (on a BDT). You should be able to install the TB gyro just as you would the Futaba GY240 & C-12. But you will end up with a combo that is only so-so, yeah you'll have the HH ability, but the electric tail is the weak link. For the money you just spent on the HH gyro & C-12, you could have upgraded to a Belt-Driven Tail assembly, had the tail authority of the BIG BOYS, rock-solid holding & exceptional piro rates! I had an AXE CPv1 that I did the HH & C-12 combo on 1st, and although it helped hold the tail somewhat, I found myself replacing tail motors constantly, & the piro rates were inconsistant. Put the Freestyle Hobbies BDT kit on it and the tail performance was spot-on, and that was with the stock brushed main motor! When I converted the main to BL, it turned into the MX300, it almost has the performance of my Trex 500, but on a diet! Shadow
Posted on: 7/8/2009 8:46 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8917297