RE: Crunchy servos
You need replacement gears! Or replace the servo. Shadow
Posted on: 12/16/2011 8:42 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Esky Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10862324

RE: wind indicator? will it work?
I've been using a burgee for sailing (balanced triangle-shaped flag) attached to a piece of 3/4" EMT about 10' long stuck in the ground. Points into the wind at the slightest breeze, gets stiff when winds reach 15-25mph, anything higher than that & my EMT pole starts to bend &/or falls over. Shadow
Posted on: 11/1/2011 7:23 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Off Topic Forum - Planes/Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10791922

RE: Multimeter Help???
Have you checked places like Harbor Freight, or Radio Shack. I bought an anolog multimeter at Rat-Shack a couple years ago for $15 bucks. Nothing fancy, was good to 600vac/300vdc & had an ohmeter for checking continuity. Shadow
Posted on: 11/1/2011 7:16 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Off Topic Forum - Planes/Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10791911

Other uses for Electric Heli during pwr outage
I live in Western Massachusetts, been with electricity since Saturday afternoon [:@]. Needed a way to circulate heat from the gas-stove to the rest of the house. Found a fixed pitch head from Big-Lama, flipped it over, attached old 540 motor to shaft with silicone tubing & zip-ties. Clamp frame to door-jam, power blades with one cell (3.7v) of a 4cell 45c 5000mah Lipo & wha-la, one circulating fan [:D]. Now if I could just figure out how to power the TV & fidge via lipo's & 400w inverter I'd be set.[;)] T-minus 5-7 days before power, maybe. Shadow
Posted on: 11/1/2011 7:12 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Off Topic Forum - Planes/Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10791905

RE: Axe CP Heli- Replace ESC with lipo compat? Broken part identification? (pic)
The link you were holding with your finger, if the highlighted pic is the same as your Axe. Goes from the Bell-Hiller mixer on the blade-grip to the seesaw. Either the ball-link on the seesaw is toast or the ball-link on the mixer arm. I have repaired plastics ball-links before by CA glueing the part back together, then drill a hole thru the center & CA in a piece of piano-wire in the hole (extra security). Shadow
Posted on: 9/8/2011 1:44 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10707544

RE: trex 500 flight times
I get 8.5 to 9 minutes on a 4 cell 5000mah 45c Turnigy, running in Idle-up 1 of about 1800 rpm. Cut it down to 6 minutes for Idle-up 2 at 2150 rpm. Using a 16 tooth motor pinion on the stock main gear, & stock motor. I also have a Lipo monitoring device on-board, but mostly I use the count-down timer on the TX. Shadow
Posted on: 6/22/2011 6:10 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10586499

RE: Factory Pitch/Throttle curves Axe Cp
Hey Gary, Here are some more details of the programming I did using the DX7. Model name: MX300 Model 1: Heli DSM Swash Type: 3 servos 120' Input Select: AUX2-INH GEAR-gear THRO Recovery-INH TRAINER-INH I added the programming mix so that any cyclic/pitch change gives you 20% increase in throttle, this keeps the headspeed up and the response lag down (if you do not have Bell-Hiller Mixing an the head). With BH mixing it will respond like a hummingbird on JOLT soda! Prog Mix 1: ELEV-THRO Rate:+20% -20% SW:ON Offset:0 Prog Mix 2: AILE-THRO Rate:+20% -20% SW:ON Offset:0 Prog Mix 3: PIT-THRO Rate:+20% 0% SW:ON Offset:0 Revo Mix: ALL ZEROS (unused) Throttle curves: Normal: 0.0%, 36.0%, 72.0%, 83.5%, 100% ST1: 100.0%, 83.5%, 72.0%, 83.5%, 100% ST2: 100.0% (across the board!) Pitch curves: Normal: 40.0%, 45.0%, 50.0%, 72.5%, 100.0% ST1: 0.0%, 27.5%, 50.0%, 72.5%, 100.0% ST2: (same as ST1) Thro HOLD: Hold Pos 0% SW:AUX 2 (Only use after rotor has stopped, will strip main gear with BL motor in flight) Swash Mix: 3-servos 120' EXP-INH AILE -100% ELEV -100% PIT -60% Travel Adjust: ALL 100% Sub-Trim: Adjust as nessasary with your servos & linkages (try and keep values low or 0 on RUD if using Belt Driven Tail & servo) Reverse Switches #4 & #6 (All others are NORMAL 1,2,3,5,7) AUTO D/R EXP NORM-INH ST-1 P0 ST-2 P1 HOLD INH D/R & EXP Position 0 (RUD,ELEV,AILE) d/r 50% Position 1 (RUD,ELEV,AILE) d/r 100% Shadow
Posted on: 12/18/2009 8:21 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9340585

RE: Issue removing blade grips
STOP USING THOSE CHEAP ALLEN (HEX) WRENCHES, and get your self a set of good quality hex drivers from ALIGN, MAVRICK,etc... Chances are those cheap unhardened hex wrenches are stripping-out before the socket-head bolts are. Also a trick for releasing loctited bolts, is to reach into the bladegrip with a soldering-iron (pencil-tip) & heat the bolt, then try removing it. Shadow
Posted on: 12/17/2009 4:31 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9339014

RE: Factory Pitch/Throttle curves Axe Cp
These are the measured values I had before I changed to a DX7 TX. Throttle curves: Normal: 0.0%, 36.0%, 72.0%, 83.5%, 100% Idle Up: 100.0%, 83.5%, 72.0%, 83.5%, 100% Pitch curves: Normal: 40.0%, 45.0%, 50.0%, 72.5%, 100.0% Idle Up: 0.0%, 27.5%, 50.0%, 72.5%, 100.0% However, there is no way of changing them using the old version 1 TX, on the V3 TX there was some slight adjustments you could do using the external pots on the TX. Shadow
Posted on: 12/17/2009 4:25 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9338999

RE: Annoying
I do not believe the noise you are hearing is coming from the nylon gears or there mesh with the brass pinions. I bet that noise is coming from the main shaft & bearings/bushings. When is the last time you lubed those areas with a light oil? Use a light-weight oil like sewing machine oil, apply a few drops then wipe off excess. Shadow
Posted on: 12/17/2009 10:32 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9338147

RE: Switching 2601 TX from mode 2 to mode 1?
Thanks Ted, I did find a procedure for switching modes at the Walkera home page. Here is the link[link=http://www.walkera.com/en1/info.jsp?id=90]2601 mode conversion[/link] for any of you out there that prefer MODE 1. Shadow
Posted on: 8/11/2009 12:54 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9007719

Switching 2601 TX from mode 2 to mode 1?
I have a co-worker who only knows how to fly in mode 1 (he's from Japan). Can the 2601 TX be converted to MODE 1, since 90% of the TX's sold here in the USA are mode 2. I know that the gimbal springs & rachet will have to be swapped, but what else is there. Thanks, Shadow
Posted on: 8/11/2009 11:44 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9007542

RE: Walkera 4G6 first impression
Is that a shaft-driven tail off the main gear? I can just see a crown gear on the tail in one of the photos, but you said it has BL motors? So where are they hiding the tail motor. Can a 4g3 be converted to the pitched tail set-up, I like that alot!! [:D][:D][:D] Shadow
Posted on: 8/9/2009 11:04 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9001863

RE: axe 400 got hot
The first thing that comes to mind is that there is excessive fiction loading up the motor. This could be between the motor pinion & main gear, or the tail belt is too tight, causing excessive draw on the motor & ESC, making them HOT. Check your gear mesh between the motor pinion & main drive gear. You should be able to take a strip of paper (about .0035" thick), and feed it inbetween the main gear & pinion. It should come out the other side with neat folds, if it doesn't fit thru, or tears are on paper, the mesh is too tight readjust the motor pinion to gear. If the paper comes out with only slighly crimpled, the mesh is too loose, readjust. A simple way to adjust gear mesh is to slip the paper inbetween the main gear & pinion, then push the motor up snug to the paper & tighten the bolts, then check the paper. Next check the tail belt tension, it should be tight enough so the belt doesn't slip on the tail belt pulleys but not so tight that it loads up the tail belt drive, belt too tight. I normally press on the belt just behind the drive assembly it should deflect about 1/4" or so. If you hold the main gear so it doesn't move & turn the tail rotor you should feel the belt deflect but not slip on the tail pulley. To adjust the tail belt tension move the tail gear housing forward just a bit, you may have to move the tail servo mount forward the same amount, otherwise your tail blade pitch & gyro will be out-of-whack. Shadow
Posted on: 8/9/2009 10:55 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9001849

RE: novus cp tail boom
Yes, on the Novus CP the tail motor wires run inside the boom, you will have to unsolder the wires at the tail motor to get them out, also you can run the wires outside the boom, just tape them on. Walkera 4g3 & 4#3b tail booms are the same as the Novus CP booms. Shadow
Posted on: 8/4/2009 3:24 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8989648

RE: Getting some sort of glitching / Interference.
So any updates? Did the 2.4ghz module take care of the "possesed heli?" Are you flying it yet?! Shadow
Posted on: 7/20/2009 2:48 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8949219

RE: idle up
The only one that hasn't been flow is the MX300 (was AXE CPv1), due to lack of lipo's that fit. All my old 11.1v 3s 1350mah 15c lipo's I was using PUFFED! So I drained/neutrilized & disposed of them, that left me with the (2) 20c 1350mah lipo's & one has a weak cell (I use that one for the tail UV LED night-flying set-up on the 500). So that leaves me 1 usable lipo to fly on, I have a couple of 1800mah 3s lipo's for the belt cp, but they are too heavy on the MX300 (wicked nose heavy). The 4g3 get the most use lately (indoors), due to bad New England weather, followed by the 500 which I can fly in winds that ground most other pilots (rotory & plankers). Shadow
Posted on: 7/20/2009 2:44 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8949198

RE: tail problems
What was it? A) Linkage to long/short? B) Gain to low/high? C) Or linkage binding? Or a combination of all of them, just curious. Shadow
Posted on: 7/19/2009 4:42 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8946608

RE: novus cp outside 1st time
What?! You can't run a STEATH mission indoors? [:'(] That's a mighty cool paint job, but I wonder if your gonna be able to see it against a dark background, (bushes, trees, stockade fence). One of the other canopy's I had for my AXE CP was flat black with refective tape stripes on it, real steathy & cool, till the tree ate it! Went back to a bright yellow canopy the tree hasn't been a problem since. Can't fly it, if ya can't see it! [;)] Shadow
Posted on: 7/19/2009 4:31 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8946591

RE: Cherry Query
Jason, see your other post in Helimax regarding your Novus CX. Your MCX issue is one of the 2 motors is pulling more curent out of the low battery than the other, some rudder trim may take care of that, or land before you reach that point. You should only be flying 80% of the batterys capacity, so if control becomes lacking LAND. Shadow
Posted on: 7/19/2009 11:21 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8945970

RE: Question About Tower Pro 90 Servos
Yep, You had it! Yellow is signal, Orange is positive, Brown is ground. Shadow
Posted on: 7/19/2009 11:13 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Esky Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8945948

RE: Alternative 4#3 Brushless motors?
Just remember if you boost your main motor to the TurboAce, your gonna want to upgrade the tail motor to BL as well, otherwise when you throttle-up hard, the tail will blow out due to torque. Shadow
Posted on: 7/19/2009 11:02 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8945925

RE: Novus CX Question
On 90% of co-axials the swashplate is only controlled by 2 servo (elevator & ailerion). My first thought is that the swashplate is NOT level when the TX trims are set neutral. If ailerion was applied the heli would bank/turn (right/left) in a large circle, if elevator was applied the heli move forward/backward. If the heli spins on its own axis, that would be a revo mix or gyro adjustment, unequal torque between the 2 rotors causes the heli to YAW (rudder input). With your trims set neutral, look at the heli's swashplate from the front, is it tilted left or right? Adjust the ball linkage from the linear servo so the swashplate is level. Flight test it, does it still make banked turns? Shadow
Posted on: 7/19/2009 10:55 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8945903

RE: idle up
Those are my favorite 4! From right to left we have: Walkera 4g3 DBL BL, MX300 (was an AXE CPv1), half-breed Esky Belt CP w/trex 450 head, and last the Trex 500. I have a few others in the collection, mostly co-axials (Hirobo Shuttle, Esky Big Lama) & an auto-gryo. The only heli that still uses the stock TX is the half-breed Belt CP (notice the antenna on the right landing gear struts?), only cause I built it for a friend out of used parts, cheap & dirty, but a functional flier. Shadow
Posted on: 7/19/2009 10:40 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8945879

RE: idle up
I'm no pro 3D flier either, I just dabble with it. But 90% of the time I fly all my heli's in IDLE-UP, all but 1 start off in IDLE-UP from a dead stop (throttle HOLD switch on DX7), the rest I spool up in NORMAL MODE & switch to IDLE-UP just before lift-off. In windy conditions (10 to 25mph winds), of which we have had alot of here, I prefer the higher headspeed. It gives the heli a more stable flight, although as I stated before it will make the collective & cyclic react FAST, so you need to be "ON THE BALL!" Shadow
Posted on: 7/17/2009 9:28 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8940720

RE: Novus Cp Problems/Plz Help!
That would be the Elevator servo, it also controls the pitch of the blades too. Could be a bad connection at the RX, carefully unplug the servo lead from the RX & then plug it back in. If it still twitches, it's most likely bad, replace it. Well if yours doesn't beep, remove the canopy, you should at least notice during the binding process that red LED on the RX flashes, then the servo reset & center themselves & the flashing goes to solid red LED. That says the TX & RX are bound, your good to go! Shadow
Posted on: 7/17/2009 9:17 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8940698

RE: Alternative 4#3 Brushless motors?
The stock BL motor on the 4#3 & 4g3 is 11,000kv. There are other BL motors you can use besides the Walkera unit. Check this out [link=http://wowhobbies.com/http/wowhobbies.com/43bparts.aspx]4#3 Upgrades[/link] Shadow
Posted on: 7/16/2009 3:18 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8938742

RE: Novus Cp Problems/Plz Help!
A couple of things you may want to check on the TX before you try and bind. Make sure the throttle is all the way down or OFF, also make sure the throttle trim is all the way down as well. You only have 10 seconds to plug in the heli after turning on the TX, if you are late it won't bind. That's why I line-up the male & female plugs on the heli with one hand, then on the TX with the other, then push plugs together. You should then hear some beeps, that's the 4in1 arming, several seconds later you should hear 3 more beeps (the rotorhead may twitch during those beeps), that's the ESC arming. The LED on the RX should be a solid red light, that says your ready to fly, if the LED on the RX is still flashing the RX has not binded with the TX, unplug the heli, turn off TX & try again. Mine gave me some issues the first day I tried binding it as well, you will get it, it's just in the timing. Shadow
Posted on: 7/16/2009 9:11 AM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8937854

RE: Novus CP issues...
Pretty much, I took a 200mm blade (both wood & plastic) and trimmed them down to the 140mm required for the 4g3. Balanced them both for blade CG & overall weight. Anything longer than 145mm and you'll have blade strikes with the tail. The woodies I tried first, they work OK, there light-weight makes them handle like the stock foamies, slow reacting cyclic. The plastic blades with there slightly heavier mass, makes hovering a bit easier, & cyclic performance is a close second to the CF set I have. Shadow
Posted on: 7/15/2009 3:50 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8936020

RE: Novus Cp Problems/Plz Help!
NEVER, EVER, under any circumstances should the heli be plugged in first ALWAYS SECOND!!!! That habit is BAD, BAD, BAD... 2.4ghz or NOT! TURN ON THE TX FIRST! PLUG IN THE HELI...Allow to intalize, fly! WHEN DONE FLYING UNPLUG HELI FIRST! TURN OFF TX. Shadow
Posted on: 7/15/2009 3:42 PM by Author "Shadow99" in the forum "Helimax"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8936003