RE: Wing Mfg B17 build - suggestions?
What scale are you working with?
Posted on: 9/15/2009 5:36 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9098223

RE: Remote Needle Valve vs. Front Needle Valve
I believe, that with these other's opinions, the main reason for rear, or even remote needle valves, is the engine mounting configuration. In my case, to avoid unneccessary butchering of the sweet cowl, a rear valve was used to make for a cleaner application.
Posted on: 9/12/2009 7:12 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9090220

RE: Most accurate way to transfer parts image?
squeekalong has it covered for ya. The pattern wheel is the cat's meow... and when you get real good, you can use an actual cutting wheel with straight edges and the french curves. No extra drawing that way. Since most plans require some cutting, to make them useable, I have found that this is quite effective for multiple pieces. ie: wing ribs. Also, for laser-like cuts, use a very fine scroll saw blade at medium speed. You'll be very satisfied with the results. The ideals saw for this is a foot powered fret saw. Good luck.
Posted on: 8/9/2009 7:48 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9002987

RE: ASP 91 won't hammer-head
Just out of curiosity, what is the relationship of the fuel tank and the carb... height wise? Generally, the feed line from your tank should not be above the carb, actually, it can be anywhere up to 1/2 inch below it, and the exhaust pressure will feed the carb as needed. A tank that is higher will naturally fill the carb by simply finding its own level... so to speak. See if you can lower the tank any.
Posted on: 7/13/2009 7:37 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8930306

RE: SE5a on EBay and Experiences?
After checking the site you linked, I found the store does not exist... didn't attempt the email address. As far as the proposed bird goes, the best advice I can give is to try another dealer for the same bird first, before you deal with a "ghost-store". It appears to be fairly scale in appearance, meaning there is a real bird of this type. Other than that, no personal experience with this Bipe. Sorry
Posted on: 7/4/2009 1:02 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8905990

RE: Tech question on fuse build.
I built my fuselage entirely, excluding installing the fuel tank, until the engine I would use was purchased. Did the firewall/mount drilling at the field, as the engine was purchased from a fellow member. The cavity for the fuel tank was sufficient to get my hands into for setting the blind nuts. This is where the statement on aggravations comes in. I eventually learned to apply some five minute epoxy to the flat toothy part of the blind nuts, and thread the mount bolts through, and tight. If you are sure of your engine choice, you should be able to acquire the neccessary dimensions from the dealer to allow the holes to be drilled, etc.. However, unless you also know what the engine configuration will be, within the cowl, it still may need to wait until the unit is in your possession.
Posted on: 7/4/2009 12:49 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8905965

RE: Tech question on fuse build.
Exactly right. Be sure to epoxy those blind nuts in as well. There's nothing more aggravating than to accidently push one back into a finished fuselage!
Posted on: 7/4/2009 7:10 AM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8905445

Boulton Paul Defiant Build ARF
My first ARF! A Boulton Paul Defiant, 61.5" wingspan... .61 glow engine w/ supplied retracts. This model comes from Fly Boy Models, and was meant to get into scale competitions with. This is a brief review, as well as a build log... designed to help with assembly and answer some questions about the ARF. The model came well packed, in plastic bags, and was in great shape, despite the soggy condition of the box. Everything was packaged as it would be assembled, and all components were there.[image][/image] The wing assemblies were first. The aileron control surfaces are of a rib construction, and skinned with monokote (or like material). They have hinges glued into them, and the trailing edges of the outboard wing sections were accurately grooved to accept them. The outboard sections were then fitted with servos, and the leads were allowed to exit out the hole in the joining rib. This lead was then connected to with a 12" extention, and that was fed through the holes atop the central wing assembly, and snaked out to the joining rib, where the connection was taped and concealed when the outer and central assemblies are joined. A "Y" extention was then used to link the two servos together. Once the outer sections and the central section were joined, and allowed time to dry, the wing is inverted, and the retract assemblies are started on.[image][/image] The mechanical retracts supplied with the plane were simple to mount, but the modifications needed to afford them a smoooth operation are as follows: The gear openings are obstructed by a wing rib, which has been lazer cut to allow ease in removing material. The wheel well buckets need be slotted, to accomodate the remnants of those ribs, as well as the servo control rod opening needed cut out to allow free movement of the control rod. Metal tape was used to finish the application, and seal the well buckets to the wings.[image][/image] Installation of the engine mount came next. I chose a GMS .61 ringed glow engine, fitted with a Pitts style muffler, mounted at 90 degrees. The mounting block and firewall were marked for the offset and the 1.5 degree right thrust notice was easily maintained with washers in between the mount and block on the port side. This configuration kept the cowl cutting to a minimum and the scale lines in tact.[image][/image] Using a rear-needle assembly minimizes prop hazards, as well as lines everything up with the Robart Super Fueler. I didn't want to have to remove a feed line to fuel her.[image][/image] On to the tail feathers! The control surfaces, again, were ribbed, keeping with the warbird scale details. The horizontal stabilizer is fully sheeted with balsa, and pre-slotted for the supplied hinges. The hinges are epoxied into the control surfaces, and attachment to the stab was a breeze. The verticle stab is made of solid balsa, beautifully carved to afford smooth scale lines throughout the fuselage aft. The rudder was also ribbed and ready to attach to the verticle fin. Then to finish this step, the tailwheel was mounted onto the pre-attached wire. The servo link was made for it and the reveal hatch cover was installed. Scale lines in keeping.[image][/image] The control wires and horns were easily linked to the servo tray area, as well as the control surfaces. The servo installation being the next order of business. The tray is very nice, and well accomodating, except for the throttle servo location. I tried all different ways to mount the servo, but found the hole was in direct conflict with the fuselage reinforcement of the wing mounting opening. Solution: Elongate the existing hole, then plate the mounting ends with 1/8th inch ply. This allowed me to relocate the servo inboard just a bit, making linking the throttle a snap.[image][/image] The rest was a piece of cake! Aft of the servo tray is the RX/Battery compartment. Very nicely cut out to allow rubberbands to hold the RX below, battery above. All of this, with the exception of the throttle control wire being installed, left plenty of room to install a DuBro 12 oz fuel bottle. The original was discarded due to inferior design. Too much leak chance. The fuel bottle sits on a tray of its own, then secured with foam padding on both sides and above it. This lines it up perfectly with the 90 degree mounted engine's carb. All that is left is to trim and mount all the cosmetic composites. Aft turret; canopy; underbelly add-ons and the wing reveals (not shown). To keep repairs and maintenance simple, I opted to mount all composites with 2.3x10mm SS screws.[image][/image] This was a decent experience for an experienced builder, but would be a handful for the novice. Not so much the work involved, but the manual. It lacks text! Many step details had to be "known", because the manual gives no elaboration on things. Flight analysis, and photos to follow.
Posted on: 7/4/2009 6:54 AM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8904877

Boulton Paul Defiant Build ARF
My first ARF! A Boulton Paul Defiant, 61.5" wingspan... .61 glow engine w/ supplied retracts. This model comes from Fly Boy Models, and was meant to get into scale competitions with. This is a brief review, as well as a build log... designed to help with assembly and answer some questions about the ARF. The model came well packed, in plastic bags, and was in great shape, despite the soggy condition of the box. Everything was packaged as it would be assembled, and all components were there.[image][/image] The wing assemblies were first. The aileron control surfaces are of a rib construction, and skinned with monokote (or like material). They have hinges glued into them, and the trailing edges of the outboard wing sections were accurately grooved to accept them. The outboard sections were then fitted with servos, and the leads were allowed to exit out the hole in the joining rib. This lead was then connected to with a 12" extention, and that was fed through the holes atop the central wing assembly, and snaked out to the joining rib, where the connection was taped and concealed when the outer and central assemblies are joined. A "Y" extention was then used to link the two servos together. Once the outer sections and the central section were joined, and allowed time to dry, the wing is inverted, and the retract assemblies are started on.[image][/image] The mechanical retracts supplied with the plane were simple to mount, but the modifications needed to afford them a smoooth operation are as follows: The gear openings are obstructed by a wing rib, which has been lazer cut to allow ease in removing material. The wheel well buckets need be slotted, to accomodate the remnants of those ribs, as well as the servo control rod opening needed cut out to allow free movement of the control rod. Metal tape was used to finish the application, and seal the well buckets to the wings.[image][/image]
Posted on: 7/3/2009 7:18 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8904332

RE: Love the build, But HATE covering? me 2
The method gboulton spoke of is great, and has done me justice for some time. And to add to the accuracy of this method, I use the plans to dictate a piece's size BEFORE adhering it to the plane... this way there is minimal need for shrinkage, neat adhesion at difficult spots and no excess film waiting to wrinkle up in the sun. Of coarse, having experience in metal fab helps lay out those complex curves and radius points. There is a time and place for all different coverings. Choose wisely. The only part of building I don't like is completing one, and having to move on to another.
Posted on: 7/3/2009 10:16 AM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8903346

RE: 4* Sixty question
You should be fine with the servo the way it is, and the control horn. Since the servo is mounted in the underside of the wing, your actual horn tavel will be 20 degrees forward, from 0... and 30 degrees aft, from 0. This is really all the motion the ailerons require for flight, and should be settable in your Tx. During normal operation, the horn will never need to go to either "extreme". Be sure to check your throws for final adjustments. 30 degrees up, 20 degrees down aileron.
Posted on: 7/3/2009 9:45 AM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8903302

RE: First Kit suggestions
Sounds like we have something in common... scale warbirds. My favorite plane, of all time, is the 7AC Champ... 30%er in the making... but where warbirds are concerned, I prefer to get jiggy with it and do some challenging builds. Nothing expands knowledge like a challenge! My very first kit build, back in the late 80s, was a Byron F4U1A!! The most difficult kit that the LHS had. I spent plenty more time than most putting her together, but learned the in's and outs of doing things. Just completed a Boulton Paul Defiant (60 size) scale bird... challenging, and the manual is very incomplete as far as text explaining the procedures, but if you can train yourself to do what is not told of you, you'll make a great builder, and have fun doing it. This kit, as well as a couple other "rare" birds is available through FlyBoy Models. Try it out.
Posted on: 7/2/2009 8:13 AM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8900286

RE: G62 Muffler Question
Lifer, These guys have about all you'd want for the G-62. I'm happy with them. http://www.bennettbuilt.com/bb09catalog.pdf
Posted on: 6/22/2009 8:29 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8872537

RE: CANOPY AND COWL SCRATCH BUILDING
The average joe will not be able to easily form a canopy, if clear is desired... however, if opaque is okay, a fellow can form the mold, male and female, of wood, solid or hollow, and heat a sheet of 1/16th colored plexiglass in the oven, then sandwich the heated plexiglass between the two forms. Vaccuum forming is the most reliable means, but who has a vaccuum mold machine? The cowls are very well represented here by Mr Reiss.
Posted on: 6/22/2009 4:16 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8871955

RE: mould maker
If you are interested at all in doing your own, it's really no hill for a stepper. PM me for details.
Posted on: 6/22/2009 4:08 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8871938

RE: First Scratch Design and Build
I'm with the others... the wings lack neccessary strength, and if you do plan to RC this bird, you have let your design limit your channel abilities. Without a substantial trailing edge, ailerons will require massive surgery... cutting back the ribs to allow for area, and/or adding the ailerons to the TE as it exists, are your choices. For E-flight, and ease of labor and expense, I would use full-length ailerons added on to the TE, with the control wire bends protruding into the fuselage... servo(s) in the wing center. Consideration must also be taken in determining placement of battery and RX. CG balancing is pertinent!
Posted on: 6/22/2009 4:06 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8871936

RE: 3 CH Simple Scratch built trainer ! HELP
From what I have seen, the aileron problem is due to the low dihedral, mixed with strip-ailerons. The flatter the wing, the larger the ailerons... usually. The throw of the strip aileron was inaffective because they do not cover enough area. I have a Kadet Seniorita and it has strip ailerons that throw up @ 30 degrees, down @ 20 degrees... 65" wingspan with full-length ailerons that measure 1-3/8" out of a 11-3/4" chord. About 5 degree dihedral. She will so an arrow's path roll no problem. (high-rates) Try your larger aileron surface, then consider increasing the dihedral a bit. Happy flying.
Posted on: 6/22/2009 3:51 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8871905

RE: how much error is too much?
head up on a swivel. Skratchbilt
Posted on: 6/22/2009 3:35 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8871876

RE: force on a controll surface
Just an idea, but I would use a single high-torque servo, per wing, with a control "wire" that would span to the 1/3rd points of the flaperons... giving you dual-position control with only a single position force. You are familiar with the means most planes use to control the elevator?... a "wire", bent into the control surface on each end, with a "control horn loop" at the center. (or sightly offset to the side of the fuse.) This same type of design worked for me, using a single servo to move 30" flaperons. I can provide a detail illustration if requested.
Posted on: 6/22/2009 3:26 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8871862

RE: Radial Engine
OOps. I found the cutaway detail illustration, but it was for a 14 twin-row BMW radial... no real detail as to the cam plates, but I can tell you, on a nine cylinder, as well as the 5 and 7's, all lifter beds are staggered. The same principle for the cam plate is used for both beds, just configured differently, for timing of coarse. The pushrods were fitted with roller lifters, and the cam plates simply had lobes... you likely know all this. I would look up a radial engine supplier, and request a parts listing, with exploded view. Good luck.
Posted on: 6/21/2009 10:05 AM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8868833

RE: Radial Engine
I have what you are looking for, in cutaway form... will post directly.
Posted on: 6/21/2009 9:40 AM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8868798

RE: obliterated brand new corsair
SgtPeanut, One bang-up job you did there!! If it were mine, I would leave all that character right where it is. Those war-birds always did look better combat scarred. Keep your head up on a swivel Skratchbilt
Posted on: 6/19/2009 9:22 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8865812

RE: How do you fix a solid styrofoam wing?
After seeing the damaged wing, I would replace it. The multiple-facetted breaks would be quite the job to glue... and strength would probably never be gained. The carbon rod "fixes" sound good, but the balancing issues would compile rather quickly. If you can manage to lay the airfoil, as it would be solid, and trace the edges, like a crime scene outline, you could probably duplicate the wing with on solid piece of foam... then fit your ailerons, etc., and reskin it. Myself, I would do this, because foam is easily worked, and I wouldn't constantly be waiting for it to fall from the sky again.
Posted on: 6/19/2009 8:59 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8865764

RE: Prop Nut & Bolt Torque Sequence Question
With the ZDZ80, there are the six bolts, which are the "drive" bolts... beings how the prop, nor the shaft, have splines of any kind. The proper proceedure is to tighten the main shaft nut to specs, then snug the "drive" bolts. Their only purpose is to prohibit prop "freespin" on the shaft. I would use threadlock on these, avoiding vibration movement.
Posted on: 6/19/2009 4:03 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8865208

RE: How do you fix a solid styrofoam wing?
I have used the Dow Blue styrofoam for all kinds of things, and the best epoxy I found was the T-88 epoxy, from wing ribs to built-up cowling molds... it works great!
Posted on: 6/18/2009 5:40 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8862907

RE: Gemini 120 FT running very rich at idle
This problem has arisen in another thread, and the cure stated was to use a Cline regulator. ?. Then again, the suggested position of the tank has been stated as the top of the tank no higher than 1/2" or so above the carb.
Posted on: 6/14/2009 2:05 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8851154

RE: So many break in method's. Which do you use?
your head up on a swivel, Skratchbilt
Posted on: 6/14/2009 1:54 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8851140

RE: Flustered with futter
! Trial and error, that will get you through this. Keep your head up on a swivel, Skratchbilt
Posted on: 6/13/2009 7:08 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8849620

RE: making telemaster bolt wings
can be posted. Keep your head up on a swivel Skratchbilt
Posted on: 6/12/2009 7:49 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8847661

RE: Please Help Me!!
Just out of curiosity, which wing falls?
Posted on: 6/12/2009 7:34 PM by Author "Skratchbilt" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8847626