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RE: LiPo battery expanding when in use. Normal?
I would not run a lipo like that. Just not worth risking a fire at worse, and losing your RC. Just wait a little for new batteries. As mentioned DO NOT THROW them in the trash - go to your local hobbyshop that can deal with them, or follow the steps available on proper disposal of lipo cells. Discharge them all the way and then put them in salt water solution (submerged completely). That is just the basics, but I wouldn't run them. In fact, keep them in a fire resistant/proof container or outside away from flammable stuff. Just play it safe please. As mentioned above, they can puff that way if you over discharge them during a run, even if they are up to spec amp wise. I have had this happen a few times. Repeated puffing even if you are stopping well before they discharge means it's time to get rid of them.
Posted on: 12/29/2011 2:40 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10881787
RE: Best upgrades/hop-ups for E-Maxx 3905
The only parts I upgraded on my older model E-maxx were the rear aluminum bulkhead pieces, but left the plastic shock tower on (rather have IT break than transfer the stress down to something annoying to fix). Along with that, I upgraded all the center / outer axles to some CVDs. MIP brand for the rear for $30, and then $30 eBay ones for 2 center, and the 2 front. Admittedly the eBay ones seem to not be as smooth (the front axles seem to have a bit more friction if that makes sense, and can pop out now and then). But with that said, I have never had them break. I also bought RPM front bumper which seems to have helped protect the front lower skid plate from snapping easily (broke 2 back to back in a few days time before getting the RPM front bumper). The RPM front bumper has a U shaped bar that goes down and back along the front skid plate for a short distance, which helps keep it from snapping. Also, not sure I remember any more, but if you have a 3905 it should already have the new tougher single-spd transmission, otherwise you want to get some steel idlers for the transmission too (again, I am not sure if the newer 2-spd has plastic idlers like my older one did, which stripped after a long time). I jumped my Emaxx and did high speed runs, wheelies etc., on pavement and grass, some mixed dirt, and have not had anything other than the above mentioned parts replaced/upgraded.
Posted on: 12/29/2011 2:29 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10881774
RE: wireless cam on walker bull dog
2.4Ghz and 5.8Ghz don't penetrate solid objects well like old school FM, or for that matter 1.2 or 900 Mhz, given the same wattage of the system. It may be why you are suffering extra noise in your videos. Also onboard wiring mess, electronics and motor RF noise will cause signal interference whenever you start moving/driving. Look into cleaning up the wiring if you can (twist/braid the wires to cancel some noise). Also look into those filters that you can wrap your power/servo wiring around (I completely am going blank right now, look like a donut.. aah Ferrite rings!) along its path to help. Other than that, using at least 100-200 mw of video transmitter power may help, if a bit overkill for down the street/home range.
Posted on: 12/29/2011 2:15 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10881711
RE: Dedicated PC/Wii tank gaming
World of Tanks, free to play, 3D game, great graphics. 15 vs 15 battles. Company / Clan battles for the competitive people. That said, make sure your PC has a decent graphics card, at least a nvidia 430GT or better, ATI 5750 or better I'd say. It's only able to use 1 CPU core so make sure you have at least a 2.6 Ghz Intel/AMD modern processor. That means laptops are NOt a good idea. Keep in mind it is NOT a WW2 era game but rather 1920-1950s. The tanks are not modeled 100% in their real life sense, but often are upgradable to be what they "could" have been, and there are lots of tanks in there which never made it past paper. Just be warned it is NOT a sim (although you get very close to it) and is more an arcade type game with some quirks (you end up with 15 vs 15 fights right now, where some tanks you face cannot be damaged at all so you rely on your teammates for help/or you are cannon fodder/scouting). The game uses a free to play model, but you CAN pay (a little or a lot depends entirely on you) if you want to progress through the various tank trees quicker to get to the big top tier tanks. It's not pay to win in the strictest sense like other "free" to play games, which is what makes it great. With over 100s of tanks/SPG/TD and 3 nations (US/CCCP/Germany) and French tanks being added soon, it's got lots of variety. I think aside from this, there are no other tank games right now that can match the fun factor and gameplay to realism balance, without getting bogged down in either ultra sim mode, or opposite - too arcade like.
Posted on: 12/29/2011 1:40 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10881697
RE: ParkZone Slo-V Review
, EDFs) but the Slo-V is still going strong on what I think are probably at least 4 year old..., but with my 17 oz Slo-V I've yet to really see it go vertical for more than a few seconds...; the Slo-V with it's big wings may just have to be a test bed! Not ideal with the prop in the camera... in the past 2 years but it's still my old standby flyer. Broken a few props though. ;) Now that I know
Posted on: 1/22/2011 10:52 AM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10280394
RE: Same charger, bigger battery
I hate to throw hobbyking at you, but that site, or hobbypartz locally, will sell you a lipo/Nimh charger and power supply for $50-$60 and that will be a much better investment if you plan on being in the hobby for any amount of time. As for how long to charge the new battery, look at the provided charger's charge rate. It will probably say something like input xxx volts, output xxx volts and xxx ma (milliamps). Take the milli amps (most likely 300 ma output if it takes 10 hours to charge a 3000 mah battery) and divide the battery's mah by it. So for example, battery capacity = 5000 mah, charge rate is 0.3 amps (300 milliamps, or 300 ma), do this: 5000 / 300 = 16.7 hours. So that means you want to charge the battery for 15-17 hours depending on how run down it is after use. Of course that is insanely long to have to wait, so invest in a good peak charger (as recommended above). Thunder AC6 or the other Turnigy or other HK clones. You could move up to lipo then as these chargers do those too. :D And lipos can be had for $30 shipped. :)
Posted on: 12/1/2010 10:57 AM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10169489
RE: Rustler Transmission
I have an older Rusty and Bandit (black plastic). They use the same Magnum 272 tranny. I have transplanted the tranny from my Rusty into an ebay Slash roller and have been using it for over a year and half. The original transmission's idler is plastic, and the diff ring gear case is plastic. Only the top gear (spur gear shaft one) and internal diff gears were metal. I would recommend spending the $20 odd bucks for the new VXL steel ring geared diff case and steel idler gear (not aluminum, it's 2x the price for no difference), which is what I did. After that, replace anything else that breaks. I broke an old plastic diff output yolk a couple odd times over several months or year. Other than that, I have left my plastic outputs on. They do get worn but even after a Feigao L sized (36x60mm) motor and now a Medusa 3300 kv 36x50mm motor on 2s and 3s (700-1200 watts peak), the only thing that tends to get destroyed is the steel idler and or the diff ring gear (steel one, yup) or the internal diff gears. That's about it.
Posted on: 12/1/2010 10:51 AM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10169480
RE: Dual Battery Bandit VXL
Nimh will not give you the performance you are looking for unless they are top notch. I have already tested 12 Nimh cells (DTX and something else) that ran great as 6 cells but as 12 in my truck they just didn't perform anything like my 3s lipo. Hobbyking (now they have more stuff at their USA warehouse so it's quicker to get it) will sell lipos for $20-$30 in the 2s and 3s 5000 mah 20-25C discharge range. A good Nimh will cost 1.5x - 2x that and weigh twice as much and have half the discharge capabilities. However if you already have 2 6-cell packs then you'll need to buy a Y harness so you can hook them up in series and them plug the other end into the ESC as usual. Of course the VXL is rated for 9-10 cells and not 12 Nimh so that's another story altogether. Plus the added weight of a second battery will negate some of the power it MIGHT help make. Gear it low, and give it a test.
Posted on: 12/1/2010 9:42 AM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10169346
RE: Ezrun short course esc
[quote]ORIGINAL: collector1231 ...... Waaay too cheap for brushless. [/quote] ROFL. I think most of us do understand that the cheap stuff is cheap for a reason. It is built to lower specs often or just not as high quality in components, and as such I would rather pay $10-$15 for a Neu/Castle if that was the case (only example I can think of is Castle's motor clearance - snag a $150 motor for $65 anyone? :D) because I know they are designed with more efficiency in mind with better parts. However, to "get the job done" any of these Hobbywing/Tacon/Feigao motors work fine. In fact I had more heating issues with my Mamba 5700 motor than either of my 2 Feigao motors used in my Emaxx and Slash for 2 years. I also own $15 and $25 brushless motors for my other r/c and planes. Yup. Somehow I can't make them explode as you'd think. :D
Posted on: 11/23/2010 1:18 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10154418
RE: Gear Ratio Clarity Question
To answer your question it doesn't matter which combo you use to reach close to the recommended gear ratio. It's just mechanical advantage. It is about the same thing as long as you're only off by .19 or so. The only difference practically would be the noise level, which may be less with larger gear set (the 87 spur and 19 something pinion) due to their larger smoother mesh. What car is this? BTW, just slap that gearing in there, and drive around for 3-5 minutes, check the motor/esc/battery temps, and repeat. If anything's too hot (usually the motor) then use a smaller pinion gear. On the other hand if the car is topping out too easily and feels slow, and you can sort of hear the motor maxxing out its RPMs, AND the motor is heating up too, that might be a sign you are under geared, and can go UP in pinion size to calm the motor RPM down and possibly the heat.
Posted on: 11/21/2010 11:11 AM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10149360
RE: Summit with Rx8 or Savage Flux
Summit. In stock form it's plenty powerful enough to crawl around, plus the 775 motor and ESC are water resistant. I know, I've had it swim in 1 ft of water where the tires were used as paddles/flotation devices (not fully submerged) and 8 months later it still works. I thought I'd keep it stock that way, until I tried an XERUN 80A esc and Castle 1518 1800Kv motor on 3s to 5s lipo. Yup, $160 and you've got a new beast. Just not as waterproof as stock maybe (though if you're careful and don't dunk it in 2 ft of water you're OK), but with Revo tires to eliminate most of the vibration, it will go about 30 mph (2x faster than stock), and run for ever on 5000 mah lipos.
Posted on: 11/19/2010 1:29 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10145588
RE: new to the brushless era and need some help
Just get the 60A version and you'll be fine. I run a cheapy 60A in my Slash on 3s and it has not given me issues. End of story. :D
Posted on: 11/18/2010 2:58 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10143579
RE: What will be the next major improvement in the RC Hobby
as needed. I even took a micro Cox P-51 Mustang free flyer and converted it to 4 channel R/C. It flew
Posted on: 11/17/2010 4:16 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10141647
RE: What will be the next major improvement in the RC Hobby
Hah I love when the build-it-or-go-home elitists start to pop up. I don't have the skill nor patience to build a balsa plane from scratch (or plans whatever). However, I do have a love of flying R/C. I have no want or need of building any of my stuff, if I can FLY, which maybe you "builder" "modeler" folks (i.e. grown up grumpy toy makers) might have forgotten, is why we get into the RADIO CONTROLLED VEHICLE HOBBY, not static diecast/wood model hobby. I have never bought a kit, just RTRs or RTFs, and a few ARFs, which is about what I can handle. Any repairs are handled just fine (or tossed in the case of a destroyed fuselage). If anything, the RTR and RTF market allows those who are interested in the hobby to dabble in without spending hundreds of more dollars than needed and see if they even like it or not. I am too much of a wimp to build up a model for weeks or months and maiden it, only to watch it spiral out of control or some other awesome mishap. That to me is not FUN, to me, fun is launching the craft a couple hours after I purchase it, if I have the chance that day, or admire it until I can and get up in the air/driving it around whatever it is. While I appreciate the skill it takes and creativity some folks display with their models, I don't have the interest or need for doing so myself.
Posted on: 11/17/2010 3:41 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10141589
RE: whats so good about 2.4 ghz?!?!?!?
Crappy radio? So I guess my Futaba 2PL FM is a crappy radio that I paid $90 for along with its receiver. That's about $10-$20 less than I paid for my 2.4 Ghz Futaba T3PM. No. In my case, when used in my Rustler, and Emaxx, the FM radio as well as stock AM just wouldn't stop glitching, despite using twisted wires, distancing the rx on the car from wires, Novak glitchbuster cap on rx, none of that helped more than a few feet. The 2.4 Ghz worked like a charm with non of that troubleshooting required, as skeptical as I was when I hooked it all up for the first time. In this scenario, it does give more usable range, doesn't it? It is better than the FM/AM radios I tried, as it is not susceptible to RF interference from the R/C car's wiring mess. Also, the reason why TRX 2.4G radios suck is they apparently use only 4 AA's batteries. For some ingenious reason Traxxas thought that since the 2.4 GHz would cut back on RF interference and all the usual issues with AM, that they don't need the extra power their AM counter parts use (8 AA's powering those AM radios). I would bet that is a good part of the issue you see people having with their RTR Traxxas 2.4 GHz systems.
Posted on: 11/12/2010 7:51 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10131831
RE: whats so good about 2.4 ghz?!?!?!?
[quote]ORIGINAL: ThunderbirdJunkie [quote]ORIGINAL: Slo-V Flyer Hmm, so apparently a 2.4 Ghz radio [b]not[/b] glitching where 75 Mhz FM would glitch, is [b]not[/b] better performance in TBJ's book? If that is TBJ's logic, then there is no point in attempting to clarify anything any more on the subject with TBJ, as it is evident TBJ is unwilling or incapable of recognizing any advantages
Posted on: 11/12/2010 6:20 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10131686
RE: Novak vs Castle (motors)
For 3S you can use the 80A Xerun for $90. BTW, the only reason you would get better runtime on 2s is if you don't over gear it. Most like you will get reduced runtime if you run the 2s overgeared for 50 mph, compared to a 3s lipo geared for 50 mph. In any case, I don't know all the details of your car/truck and budget so I can only recommend things based on what I understand. :D
Posted on: 11/12/2010 5:33 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10131611
RE: whats so good about 2.4 ghz?!?!?!?
[quote]ORIGINAL: oliveDrab My Futaba 7C 72 MHz has been rock-solid reliable since 2003 (knock on wood). And I've got an Airtronics VanGuard that's older than the Futaba - also rock-solid reliable. Why should I fork over $ to change to 2.4 ghz? [b]If it ain't broke don't fix it.[/b] [/quote] Yeah, I don't think it's necessary to switch over if you don't have any issues in your application. For most who need a new radio, they seem to be buying the newer tech, 2.4 GHz. For those who already have what they have (FM) they can do what they wish. In my case, I had to move to 2.4 in order to get rid of the RF related glitching in AM/FM. At my LHS, just last weekend I went to buy a 6ch full range receiver for my Fut. 6exa. Unfortunately all they had was 80% 2.4 Ghz stuff so I kinda got annoyed that they didn't have much in any decent FM full range 6 ch receivers any more. Time to go to Tower. ;)
Posted on: 11/12/2010 12:39 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10131163
RE: Novak vs Castle (motors)
They both should have enough torque. However, in my experience and many others on here, the Castle 5700 motor will most likely heat up trying to over gear it. Also, from my experience, the Novak motor, assuming you get something like a 5.5R or 6.5R 540 sized motor, should run cooler and be able to put up with being geared up for speed, on 2s. However, my question is still, why not simply use 3s? You only need a 3s 4000 mah 20-25C motor and with a 8.5 Novak motor, or Castle 4600 Kv, either will give you 50 mph. The 3S does not weigh that much more (maybe 4-5 oz more?) than 2s.
Posted on: 11/12/2010 4:55 AM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10130575
RE: whats so good about 2.4 ghz?!?!?!?
Hmm, so apparently a 2.4 Ghz radio [b]not[/b] glitching where 75 Mhz FM would glitch, is [b]not[/b] better performance in TBJ's book? If that is TBJ's logic, then there is no point in attempting to clarify anything any more on the subject with TBJ, as it is evident TBJ is unwilling or incapable of recognizing any advantages. :D
Posted on: 11/12/2010 4:50 AM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10130570
RE: 180 sized motor?
I can't say I've seen any 180 motors that are round. If I understand you correctly, you are looking for the 180 sized motor that has a round can, instead of the flattened top and bottom? I think most 180's come in the flattened shape and not round unless you go up to 200 size or 280 size. Is it a possibility to use a 20mm small brushless motor like a mini Mamba? It doesn't have to be a crazy fast Mamba, just the motor size I meant. There's plenty of cheapy cheap brushless low Kv motors in and around that diameter on HK I think. I understand if you don't want brushless. Have you googled for small 180 motors?
Posted on: 11/12/2010 4:20 AM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10130542
RE: Deans plug question
Yes.
Posted on: 11/11/2010 5:47 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10129535
RE: Guys please help with this pleaseeeeeee
Ok, you sound like you're new to the hobby. It's not all that complicated. Your Steering servo wire goes into Channel 1. Your Throttle servo plugs into Ch. 2, and if you have a 3rd servo or accessory, it'll go into Ch. 3 on your receiver. Just go back to your stock radio, turn it on. Plug your old receiver back into the truck like I advised above, and turn it on. Don't run your truck's engine, obviously. Now test your trigger, and steering and make sure the correct servo moves. If it's too confusing, plug the steering servo by itself into the receiver's slots, and test your steering to see if it works when you turn the radio's wheel. If the servo is plugged into the correct slot (channel) on the receiver, it should steer. Leave the steering plugged in and move onto the throttle servo, and test it with the trigger to make sure it works in the correct slot. So on and so forth. Let this be a lesson. Don't just blindly pull wires out without understanding where they go first. And if you are upgrading to a DX radio, at least know what the wires plug into and what they do. :) Most likely assuming all your equipment uses 3 wire servo plugs, your connectors need to be trimmed a little to allow them to slip into the new receiver's slots.
Posted on: 11/11/2010 5:40 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10129520
RE: Novak vs Castle (motors)
[quote]ORIGINAL: AL3xGR So? Higher kV? (less pressure on shafts and gears :)) EDIT:I added you as a friend on youtube [/quote] If you use a bigger pinion on a 5000 Kv motor, or use a normal pinion on a 6000 Kv motor, the spur gear and tranny will still see the same increase in RPM, so there's no real benefit between them in that sense. I would say since you're limited to 2s (even though the benefits of 3s is way more efficiency since you're trying to reach high speeds) gear up with the 5800Kv motor to attain your goal. It will most probably heat up regardless, but if you keep the tires balanced (and I'm assuming it's 2wd?) it might just work.
Posted on: 11/11/2010 5:25 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10129489
RE: Rc10B4.1 FT Spur/pinion?
That gearing should be OK as a starting point. Understand that it's not changing both the pinion and spur, but the difference between the two relative to their size that changes the ratio. So you could do for example, 84/24 (which is 3.5:1) or 78/22 (3.545:1) and it would give you the same results. You want to start be swapping the pinion gear up or down to get the desired result. If for some reason you cannot find the right sized pinion or the gears won't mesh right with a certain combo, then you go up or down on the spur gear 3-4 teeth. Here are the basics: * Go up in pinion size and or decrease Spur gear size for MORE speed, less torque, MORE heat (usually), lesser run time. * Go down in pinion size and or increase Spur gear size for less speed, MORE torque, less heat (again, usually), MORE run time.
Posted on: 11/11/2010 5:22 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10129478
RE: Novak vs Castle (motors)
[quote]ORIGINAL: AL3xGR 2s lipo 5800kV.If I need higher top speed (SAY that the motor can handle a gearing for 100mph) I must use a motor with higher kv or gear up?(to prevent heat problems) [/quote] I calculated using some rough figures, that in order to go 50 mph, using 3.5" tall tires, you need the wheels/tires to spin at 5280 rpm. Your 5800 Kv motor might spin around 46400 rpm @ 8.0v (fully charged 2s lipo under load for example). In order to reach 50 mph you would need a final gear ratio of 8.78:1. That is of course a rough estimate, and the gearing is PRETTY tall for a truck, but it is 1/12th scale, BUT it is also quite heavy @ 4-5 lbs.
Posted on: 11/11/2010 5:14 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10129465
RE: Novak vs Castle (motors)
[quote]ORIGINAL: AL3xGR @ Slo-V Flyer.5000k isn't too high.I won't use it off road.You have a Bandit with a 3.5T motor too. [/quote] Hah yes you caught me. Then again that Bandit is too much for off-road. It has street tires, balanced and barely ever reaches top speed in the short distance I have to drive it. ;) And the motor runs cool, usually not over 120-140*F on 7 volts, geared
Posted on: 11/11/2010 3:46 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10129308
RE: whats so good about 2.4 ghz?!?!?!?
ROFL this thread is entertaining. Some people cannot concede easily. I am guilty of that now and then, too, I'll admit. :D [quote] Next greatest thing about 2.4g is that you can blame your crashes on 2.4g technology lock-outs that have been claimed by several people. This saves your male ego!! < Message edited by Airplanes400 11/11/2010 8:41 AM > [/quote] Yes I've heard of this issue on the "other" forum's FPV threads. This is one issue where FM may help/not be susceptible I think? One advantage AM/FM may have for ground R/C is better obstacle penetration, i.e. ability to not lose signal or control as easily when the truck is out of LOS from the 2.4 GHz transmitter (lots of trees or walls etc.). With that said, I've yet to conduct any LOS obstacle based testing with my Fut. 2.4GHz system. Maybe one of these days.
Posted on: 11/11/2010 2:32 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10128708
RE: Traxxas Pole!
Not to be rude but this question is asked often per week. If you search I'm sure you could have found the answer/recommendation. And as it is, if you read the forums you'll see the Stampede is often recommended over the Rustler for younger kids due to its toughness and appearance. :D
Posted on: 11/11/2010 1:41 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10129086
RE: Novak vs Castle (motors)
Actually.... if you are comparing a 2s to a 3s pack, both of 4000 mah capacity for example, then you CAN get same or better runtime the 2s pack. If you were to keep the same gearing when running the 2s and then 3s, you'll notice your 3s will drain just a few minutes faster. I have this happen all the time. I run a 2s 5000 mah lipo and 3s 5000 mah lipo on my Slash geared 21/84. I always get a couple more minutes or so of runtime extra from the 2s. The reason I believe is the extra voltage also causes extra amp draw (which is probably also why motors heat up more with more voltage without re-gearing). In any case, 2s is lighter, but also remember you will have to gear it way up to get 45-55 mph in a 1/12th TRUCK. If this was a touring car I can see that, but a truck with a 5800 KV motor on 2s...I don't know how possible that is, especially if it all weighs close to 3 KG (6 lbs) after battery weight is added.
Posted on: 11/11/2010 1:40 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10129082
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