RE: 1/16 E-REVO
Just don't dunk it in 2 ft of water and the "water resistant" parts should be fine.
Posted on: 5/19/2009 1:10 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8781856

RE: RC helicopter gyro as drift control system on E Firestorm
Oh wow so that's how it would look. Hah. Yah it's quite tight around the rim there. Well have you thought about how you would wire the servos up to operate only during a slide/skid? I think I'm beat, as I don't have any idea how to rig up a custom electronic setup.
Posted on: 3/18/2009 12:40 AM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8589620

RE: will a vxl work in a emaxx?
I think he did tell you which Mamba system, the Mamba Monster. Use the 2200 kv motor and run it on 14+ volts (4s-6s lipo). OR if you already have the VXL system (or ESC) OR if you don't have anything, and want a cheap setup, get a Mamba Max ESC, and a Feigao 7XL motor and run that sucker on 3s lipo (11.1 volts) or 4s lipo (or 14 volts), but for 14 volts, you will need an external BEC which you can find for $10-15 off hobbycity.com.
Posted on: 3/18/2009 12:29 AM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8589591

RE: Lipos - 15C v. 20/25C
[quote]ORIGINAL: ScottStaypuff Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but the punch of the 15c lipo should act like a very good nimh pack. Run time should be about 30% longer than a 4000mah nimh too, at least thats what a racer friend reports. [/quote] Actually....... 4000 mah is 4000 mah mah = milliamp hours. So that's like saying a gallon of water would last more in a bucket than a bottle.... see what I mean? Now, as for the 15C lipo vs a nimh... the Lipo will still be tons better. as someone said earlier, 4000 mah 15C is about 60 amps, which is great for what you're using.
Posted on: 3/17/2009 11:50 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8589496

RE: LiPo Question
[quote]ORIGINAL: notez2beat So would a 8000 mah with 10/15C rating work or should I just stick to any mah with 20C + discharge? [/quote] That would work. You are interested in what the output in AMPs is not just how high the C rating is, so yes 8000 mah 10C would be 80 amps which is good enough. Heavier than what you might like (compared to 4000 or 5000 mah), but would work.
Posted on: 3/16/2009 3:52 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8584251

RE: Slash
For onroad shocks, you can try the stock Bandit shocks. They have shorter shafts and springs. That will lower your truck so your truck will flip less, and you can tune the stiffness to your liking for on-road. As for Anaconda tires, the Bandit rears are close, but a little smaller overall than the stock Slash tires. So if you're OK with that, you can use the rear Anaconda wheels and tires for your Slash in the front and rear, EXCEPT the front will need a little offset, since the front arms on a Slash are narrower than the rear. I'd stick with stockers though even for on road, the Bandit ones are not worth the swap it'll cost you. Unless as mentioned you want to cut the fenders a little more so the Rustler tires can turn without scrubbing. Rustler's would give more traction and widen it a little.
Posted on: 3/16/2009 3:49 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8584245

RE: RC helicopter gyro as drift control system on E Firestorm
Hmm I didn't quite think it through. But I was assuming the gyro wouldn't engage the brake on a particular wheel unless there was slippage beyond my steering input. But now that I think about it, the braking servo would have to be connected to the steering assist gyro which is also hooked up to the steering servo, which means anytime you turn the wheels, it would apply the brakes too... Though, as long as the braking force is not very high, I suppose it would make for tighter cornering by pivoting almost on the inside rear wheel, like rockcrawlers, hehe. Yah, a bit of a snag. There must be a way to hook it up so it doesn't engage the brakes unless there is a slide or counter-steer needed. As for the axle's diameter necessitating more force for effective braking, yah I thought about that. And how the shaft move in relation to the suspension arm with travel... I suppose using the wheel rim idea might be better. But that is if this whole constant steering-causing-braking issue can be cleared up without need for fancy electronics or skills.
Posted on: 3/16/2009 3:34 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8584190

RE: LiPo Question
[quote]ORIGINAL: notez2beat Thanks for the info. Here is what I am considering. Let me know if it will make sense or not. Slash with a 9T(4300Kv) brushless motor with ESC combo that is rated at 35A Cont. Current and 190A Peak Current. The batteries are 4000mAh 11.1V 15C Hi Rate Lithium Polymer Battery with a 10C Continuous discharge rate. [/quote] Despite the low rating of the ESC (35 amps) the lipo you want or have described is quite low as far as discharge ability. It is 4000 mah and 10C, which = 40 amps continuous. I would advise you to get something more capable of 75+ amps constant. Even though the "burst" factors in during braking and acceleration and not always, you would rather have the battery be at a more comfortable drain with higher specs than what the motor would pull. Summary: get bigger battery! Or 4000 mah with 20C or more rating.
Posted on: 3/16/2009 3:14 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8584119

RE: RC helicopter gyro as drift control system on E Firestorm
My idea as you said is to mount the braking system around the bearing hubs as you mentioned. That would ideally keep things from changing the brake's position as the suspension moved up and down, however some kind of mix of string/rod combo might be needed to operate the brakes without creating more geometry issues in the connections/rods that would cause the brakes to "apply" just like how 'bump steering' is the cause of improper steering geometry. I see what you mean by not needing front wheel braking in the sense that steering corrections seem to work well enough, at least in an r/c application of this scale. As for rear wheels, if I understood your statement correctly... The outside wheel is slowed down enough through braking that it regains some traction, which depending on how quick the tail slide or whatever sliding is happening is, might catch and cause the truck to flip. If that's what you mean then yes I think it's a possible outcome/side effect. Then again, just like how the steering gyro seems to work almost instantly and make the corrections invisible, I am assuming with some find tuning, the gyro assisted braking system would not allow the truck to gain sufficient sideways speed in a slide by hopefully catching the truck in the act, so to speak, preventing it from traction rolling in the first place. Then again maybe this is all just a techno-drooling session in my head and not doable. So yes first things first, need to install a working physical braking system. Heck, why look all the way out to the wheels? May it would be simpler to have 2 identical micro servos with enough torque, mounted along the suspension arms some where, 1 on each side. Using a splitter or "Y" connector both servos would respond to the gyro output. The servo arm could be directly or indirectly (using mechanical leverage to boost force) pressing against the drive axle? A little crude, but it might allow for not having to use some complex pushrod linkage etc being operated by one servo. The draw back of course would be wearing the stock plastic axles down a little, but then there are probably ways around that by slipping another layer over the area where the brake pad would press against. Too much typing. Ah so I see you too have experienced the amazing difference the gyro assist has on wet / low traction ground hmm? I was amazed by the difference it made, even if I punched the throttle, I was able to go near straight (depending on trim) the entire way all the way up to top speed. Without the gyro, I had a hard time even accelerating half way up before the truck would catch bumps and ruts and turn one way or the other and spin out. BTW, I've ran my truck numerous times in straight lights and long curves, I'd estimate a good 40 mph. I did not see a single gyro phenomenon. As long as the gyro isn't too aggressive and isn't over-correcting minute slips and bumps at those speeds.
Posted on: 3/13/2009 3:31 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8574370

RE: What are these?
I think you should just send that big crawler type truck my way. You will be very very bored, they are slow and make people fall asleep. And we all know how bad it is when you fall asleep behind the wheel. Send it here. Do it, you will be very happy. I can give you my address when you realize my offer!
Posted on: 3/13/2009 2:24 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8574216

RE: RC helicopter gyro as drift control system on E Firestorm
Most definitely. I'm kinda' excited about making some sort of proper 'physical' braking system preferably for the front wheels, to give better stable braking and less tail slides, and of course shorter braking! Right now our RWD trucks and buggies stop what basically equates to yanking the hand brake on your Corolla (Cavalier, CTS, whatever you drive). As you know braking with rear wheels, SUCKS. Though it might help in r/c cars enough and induces cool slides and stuff, I think when it comes to stopping when it counts, rear wheel braking is not enough. Anyway, without going off topic, I going to see how I can implement this brake force distribution technique. Got lots of spare mini/micro servos and pushrods and nylon strings. I would to test to see what method would be the simplest, yet effective way of keeping a truck from spinning out or doing the one wheel spin slide sha'baam. I think clutch bell shoes from a nitro would make a good round "brake shoe" to push against the inside of the truck's wheel (which would act as the 'drum' ) . Hmmm.....
Posted on: 3/13/2009 2:19 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8574210

RE: What are these?
[quote]ORIGINAL: FoamyVictim Post the same pics on RCTech.net you may get some responses. I don't recognize them, but [b]the one with front wheel steering [/b]looks like a Blackfoot. [/quote] Should it be rear wheel steering? [:D][:D][:D]
Posted on: 3/13/2009 12:52 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8573966

RE: The Official Traxxas Slash short-course race truck
I've been looking around for anti sway bars for the Slash. Anyone know if they even make them? Or if I can adapt or mod some other model's to the Slash? I would imagine it would help quite a bit with cornering, seeing as how it leans very easily.
Posted on: 3/13/2009 12:06 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8573844

RE: RC helicopter gyro as drift control system on E Firestorm
[quote]ORIGINAL: ih8nixon I was thinking of setting the gain a lot lower on the roll gyro and placing it after the yaw gyro, but after thinking about it I think the roll gyro might have the same effect as lowering the gain of the yaw gyro. I did however find that one of my rate gyros seems to dead in one direction, courtesy of my amazing skill in crashing helis. I figure that since it is a rate gyro and only corrects for one direction it can be used as wheelie control. I've hooked it up through the esc and it seems to work. I'm a little worried about having a half busted gyro in control of my throttle,but I figure a rope through the wheelie bar should be enough to hold it if the gyro sends out a full throttle signal. [/quote] Rope around the wheelie bar? Hahah! I can see it now, it goes WOT and the rope runs out and Bammo! you get yanked 10 feet away! Actually, I think using a gyro for wheelie control might not be the best way. I mean, for one thing, if your ESC has punch control, that would be a better method. But mostly the problem I see is, I think every time your truck goes over a hump or jump and the nose goes up a little, the gyro will cut back on the throttle, thinking the truck is "wheeling" and hinder your speeds, see what I mean? Though I see it would help with long air jumps where it might help level the nose off... But I do want to try to setup mine as anti-roll control gyro and see how it fairs. Last night I drove my truck on wet short grass out in a field. I had the gyro on at first. I honestly couldn't tell how bad traction was on that surface for RWD... until I decided to remove the gyro and drive around. Well... first thing I learned was holy fishtails bonanza Batman! I hit the throttle and half the time the truck spun out before I could correct it, or I just ended up making it worse. The gyro most definitely worked like magic in that scenario and corrected fishtailing full throttle takes offs perfectly. The only thing I didn't like is how at higher speeds, it seems to make steering a little less responsive, or maybe it was me fiddling with my dual rates.... Seems like every time my gyro is plugged in, the steering becomes exaggerated and I have to turn the EPA down or dual rate down to almost 60% because for some odd reason with the gyro in, the wheels want to turn way too much. The other idea I've been brain storming with is an actual vehicle directional-stability system, using maybe one gyro again, BUT instead of adjusting steering, have some kind of "brake force distribution" setup at least for the front or rear 2 wheels using a separate mini-servo. This is what I am thinking. Just like how the gyro turns the wheels to counter steer a fish tail or skid, the gyro would with this setup turn the servo one way, pulling/pushing a rod that would operate a kind of "brake shoe" against the inside of a wheel to slow it down. If I understand the concept, by slowing or braking the outside wheel of a skid, this would "pivot" the rest of the car around it and get out of the skid/spin. Now the drawback to this might be, if this is setup for the rear wheels, and both wheels have already lost traction and are in a skid, then slowing one wheel down might lock it up more so, and that *might* actually cause that wheel to then want to swing around the wrong way even more so. OR by locking up this rear wheel, the diff would cause the other wheel to spin faster, hopefully aiding in swinging the car around to the right orientation. If I lost you, well, crap.
Posted on: 3/13/2009 12:03 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8573837

RE: Slash moter questions
[quote]ORIGINAL: FairTax4me That motor will turn faster than the Titan but you'll need to gear down so much that it will negate the purpose of the faster motor, which is to go faster. (usually) A lot of people have put this motor http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJ766&P=ML in the Slash with good results. It's the same size as the stock Titan, but should last a heck of a lot longer. There is also a 22 turn version, the T600 which will handle up to 8 cells with ease. You will have to cut a flat spot in the shaft of those though for the pinion grub screw to grab, since they're made for air planes. [/quote] I see what you are saying, and used to think that. Fact of the matter is, it will still go fast, but yes in a heavier Slash, a 16 or 17 turn motor might be more efficient. BTW, I used to have a 13t motor in my Rustler, geared 13/90, and it went fast like stink, so I know that despite gearing down, the motor is in fact still faster due to it churning out more RPM in the end.
Posted on: 3/13/2009 11:39 AM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8573769

RE: Slash moter questions
Use a pinion around 13t and you might have to use a larger spur gear (87 or 90t) in order to reach the pinion. As for life of the motor, I'd say with 7-cells it will last a little less than on 6-cells, and that is totally subjective. Maybe a month before you need to clean the comm/cut it and clean the brushes. Or less, depends how hot the motor gets.
Posted on: 3/12/2009 9:26 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8572072

RE: What does 1y, 1.5y, 2d, 2.5d and 3d stand for
Holy crap, ok then in that case I guess you should be fine. I think the final ratio for an Emaxx in 2nd is close to the Summit in 2nd gear, so in that case I would go with a ~2000 kv motor so you can use a "reasonable" sized pinion (20 teeth?) and use 4s voltage to get you 30s and still crawl around with the apparent low low 1st gear without limiting your throttle usage.
Posted on: 3/12/2009 2:53 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8570710

RE: What does 1y, 1.5y, 2d, 2.5d and 3d stand for
Hmm, I don't think you will get 30 mph with gearing low enough to crawl... on 4s anyway. I mean you could crawl with low throttle use. Kinda hard to explain my position but let me try. I use a 2300 kv XL motor in my Emaxx on 3s and I get about 28 mph in 2nd gear (22/66 gearing), I imagine I would get mid 30's with 4s. Now, seeing as how the Summit has even lower internal gearing to begin with because it's a crawler, I can't see the 1st gear being tame enough for crawling and still have 2nd gear reach 30 mph with a 1200 kv motor, unless you use a really large pinion. SO basically, you either use low throttle a lot when crawling in 1st = hot ESC, and have 35 mph speeds, or use most of the throttle range for crawling speeds in 1st, and accept ~20 mph for 2nd gear speeds... I think that makes sense now? Now I could be wrong, if 1st gear is realllllly low and the 2nd gear ratio is tall enough to allow this to be done practically on 4s and a 1200 kv motor.
Posted on: 3/12/2009 2:41 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8570680

RE: RC helicopter gyro as drift control system on E Firestorm
I actually thought about that, but without knowing how the two gyros would interact with each other, I think that might screw things around? What I mean is, if a gyro also reads the position of the servo to figure out if it's doing what it's supposed to, then maybe the second gyro in the middle might throw things off and cause them to fight each other? Or do gyros simply send a one way signal to the servo? In which case the "roll" gyro would send a signal, and the "directional" gyro would see that signal, pass it along, and only add to it if the axis IT is monitoring changes? Dangit, now I wish my LHS had a cheap $25 gyro.....Might have to order me one to play with...
Posted on: 3/12/2009 2:33 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8570662

RE: What does 1y, 1.5y, 2d, 2.5d and 3d stand for
Hahaha Yup it's Thursday! [quote]ORIGINAL: maybelater29 and just because http://www.obtuser.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/eliza-dushku-maxim-hq-04-500x497.jpg [/quote] *sighhh* Bad, Bad boy! And yes any low kv motor would work, so that one 3d would do just fine. In fact I bet it will really crawl then hehe. Hmm tow yourself around in a wagon with that. ... Except seeing as how this is a crawler.... I wouldn't pay $330 for the system. And I know this is preference thing, but seeing as how you are not looking to get 40 mph or any kind of extreme offroading (well it's crawling which is extreme in a sense, ....anyway) I'd be happy with a simple 3s-4s lipo or equivalent setup with the Mamba Max and any budget low kv motor in that range (something like the $60-70 Feigao 12L or 12XL or whatever is around 1000-1400 kv).
Posted on: 3/12/2009 2:20 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8570625

RE: What does 1y, 1.5y, 2d, 2.5d and 3d stand for
The 1.5y etc etc are letting you know the winding. Yes KV would work way better, but the "y" means a certain type of winding of the stators, and "d" means delta type of winding. I have no idea what the difference in performance is. E.g. A 3.5d means delta winding and 3.5 turn motor.
Posted on: 3/12/2009 1:59 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8570590

RE: RC helicopter gyro as drift control system on E Firestorm
I noticed on my gyro, when I adjust the "setup" pot, it turns wheels either left or right a certain amount. I imagine that is the same effect as a tail rotor's motor gaining/losing some rpm, if you catch my meaning. I first thought about adjust the trim on the radio to compensate, and drove around a little, but decided to keep the wheels properly centered by setting the pot and not fiddling with the steering trim. I am thinking this base steering offset is basically a symptom of the different adjustments of the gyro's pots? I noticed there are two additional pots on the side and messing with those also cause the wheels to turn left or right, but I could not thoroughly gauge the gyro's responses. I remember these other two pots having some effect in my heli (more or less sensitive to sway) , but I can't see it yet in my truck. Need to do more fiddling tonight. :) Oh, yesterday it rained, so I had a nice slick area to drive around. Man, not quite traction control, but I really noticed, even without the optimum settings on the gyro, it helped prevent the truck from spinning out under full throttle acceleration. With the gyro disconnected, I went back to spinning out and donutting a whole lot more. This particular gyro and setup I have in my Slash is not quite "aggressive" enough to steer me around a drift just right, or to correct major swaying and fish tailing, but under usual situations where I would be constantly controlling the steering wheel, and even at top speed, the truck would stay quite stable. So far, I think the gyro is no replacement for practice! I did manage to do some very cool 90 degree turns by drifting just right through them, something a bit harder to do the "normal" way. So even with gyro input I think practice is still 100% needed to get the results! I will look into buying a cheapy GWS gyro tonight that I know is not moody like this Dark Knight rip out I am using.
Posted on: 3/11/2009 1:34 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8567027

RE: running 2 3c lipo's in my rustler in a series question
I'm not sure, but maybe it depends on many things, from my limited understanding. Things like one battery somehow being more efficient at delivering amps, say maybe 1% better. So at the end, it will show lower voltage, (having discharged more of the current?). I am not too sure though I think this theory of mine would apply more so to parallel setups.... Hmm.. maybe the one battery with lower voltage showing after a run somehow heated up more/faster than the other because of lesser cooling? Maybe they are supposed to be a little inconsistent? As long as both of them are near enough in voltage (say + - .05 volts I don't know really) and one doesn't reach lvc too soon before the other after a run I suppose you are OK. EDIT: I'd say 2200 mah 25C batteries are on the borderline compared to what you want, especially when running 4s or 14 volts, you are pulling way more amps than 3s or 11 volts. In any case, you want a lipo(s) that are capable of handling 75-100 amps continuous for use with 1/10th trucks and above. Especially if you are using a larger motor, which that low kv motor suggests to me. Possibly the batteries are being stressed when you accelerate or brake. Again, in the same setup, same gearing, as you go up in voltage, the amp draw increase proportionally. I'd be a little cautious and gear down a couple teeh.
Posted on: 3/11/2009 1:23 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8566966

RE: Gearing changes, and motor heat??
BTW, as for gearing the same principle Access and others described about loading up the motor applies to both brushed and brushless. Use too large of a pinion, and you will start frying the motor and possibly ESC and battery (as they are trying to supply/handle that current before it reaches the motor). And not just brushless motors but brushed motors spin faster with more voltage, it's just for some reason brushed motors have always been referred to by their windings or "turns," while the majority of brushless motors, knowing their KV rating is the better rating that is used as a more accurate way of judging their performance (if you compare the turns of one brushless motor and its KV rating to another brand or motor, you'll often notice the turns don't match, yet the KV rating is close). Also, you want to look at the maximum amps the brushless motor is rated for, as that will let you know how much torque the motor can produce. For example a typical monster truck bl motor can be 2300 kv, and rated for 100 amps (Feigao 7XL ~36x70mm long). That would be a hell of a lot more torque and power than say a 8000 kv motor rated for 25 amps (Castle ~20x40mm mini r/c motor).... For example, you do not want a standard 540 sized 9000 kv bl motor in a Monster truck, because not only is it spinning too fast, but the amount of torque it produces at reasonable operating currents would not be enough and would very quickly overheat AND it would require such low low gearing to run efficiently. That would be exactly like using an 8 turn mod brushed motor in a 10 lb E-Maxx. Ain't gonna happen. Sooooo with that said, unlike nitro/gas "engines" electric motors don't quite have a "sweet" spot at any RPM range. As someone posted above, it is more so the amount of efficient load you put on the motor, given the voltage and application you are using it in. Hope that threw you off for a few days. :D
Posted on: 3/11/2009 1:12 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8566932

RE: Traxxas Summit vs My Son
Were your motors/battery any hotter than usual? I'd imagine so in high gear? I've seen someone do that with a stock Emaxx in low gear with two kids. It was hilarious to say the least. I've actually wondered about doing that with my brushless E-Maxx and try to pull myself in a cart to go grocery shopping.... scooter what?? Muhuhahaha Ok fine I would get run over by the cars going 45 mph and it would take me only 30 whole minutes to get there...
Posted on: 3/11/2009 12:26 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8566797

RE: ezrun brushless
Most of the cogging will happen with Nimh/Nicads with the motor geared kinda tall. Using my 3s lipo, my Mamba max system does not cog whatsoever, except from a standstill which is the odd jitter before the motor gets going, and barely noticeable. But yes that cogging is inherent to sensorless motors, and best alleviated with lipo batteries or similar. :D
Posted on: 3/11/2009 12:51 AM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8565622

RE: e-maxx 3905 brushless decision
I've constantly read using 2 brushless motors is usually not a good idea, now it is possible it might work just fine, but chances are one might be a tad slower than the other, and/or the difference between the two could strip the spur gear. In either case, if you have the batteries the MMM would be a lot simpler. Or just try your Novak as mentioned above and see if that suits your style.
Posted on: 3/10/2009 5:44 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8563946

RE: The Official Traxxas Slash short-course race truck
Yes, 4000 mah 20c would give you 80 amps discharge rating, so that is a good battery to use. Preferably you want a lipo that can do anywhere from 75 to 100 amps continuous especially when used in trucks and then of course monster trucks.
Posted on: 3/10/2009 5:42 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8563939

RE: running 2 3c lipo's in my rustler in a series question
are these hooked up in parallel so you get 3s but double capacity, or in series so you are getting 6s setup ? in any case, it should draw about the same current from both, assuming both lipos are the same specs.
Posted on: 3/10/2009 5:39 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8563910

RE: Over-drilled hinge pin holes..
[quote]ORIGINAL: wookie_racer that is exactly right. on my CR i put grub screws in the front bulk to hold the pins in place so i didn't need to use e-clips ever again, lol. i am sure you could do the same thing on the slash....no more loosing e-clips! [/quote] Hot dam. I think that's going to be my next adventure... grub screws up the bulkhead! I've lost at least 3-4 C-clips on my E-maxx, because that is what was included with the rear aluminum bulkhead I got for it (by Dynamite).. somehow the pins can't fall off due to the rear bumper frame work in the way. However I've not lost clips on my Rusty or Bandit if I recall, but I hate working with them, so this grub screw idea sounds like something a little more sanity friendly.
Posted on: 3/10/2009 2:38 PM by Author "Slo-V Flyer" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8563386